IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■Z  1132 


|A0_ 


12.2 


1112.0 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1.6 

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6"     — 

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductiors  historiques 


4 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  muy  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagee 


□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 


D 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

□    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^color^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


["T^Coloured  maps/ 

I— *-l    Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


n    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detach^es 

[~l^Showthrough/ 
Lk_]    Transparence 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


□ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relie  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


D 

D 


Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  pai-tiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  fiim^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


e 

§tails 
s  du 
lodifier 
r  une 
Image 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exbmplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

La  biblioth^que  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  dtd  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  'a  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  I'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


strata 
to 


pelure, 
m  d 


n 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

t- 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

The 


With 


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^ 


<^ 


SECOND    EDITION  — REVISED  AND   CORRECTED 


A   SOUVENIR 


OF  THE 

Thousand  ^  Islands 


OF  TJ£E 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER 


FROM 


KINGSTON  AND   CAPE   VINCENT   TO 

MORRISTOWN  AND   BROCKVILLE 


WITH 


Their  Recorded  History  from  the  Earliest  Times,  their  Legends,  their  Romances, 

their  Fortifications  and  their  Contests 


INCLUDING   BOTH    THE 


Hmencan  anb  Canabian  Cbannels 


PROFUSELY  ILL^JSTRATED 

f^4  IVM   news  of  NiUural  Scenery,  as  -well  as  Pictures  of  Many  Summer  Villas,  Steamers,  lushing  Scenes,  etc. 


Edited  and  Puhlished  by 

JNO.  A.  HADDOCK,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

A   xViitive  of  Jefferson   County,  xX.  Y. 

U"qdGP  the  PatPor^agQ  of  thjo  Thousar^d  Island  ©lub  of  /Vle^iandpia  Bay 


PRINTED    AND    I!OUND    BY   THE 

WEED-PARSONS    PRINTING  COMPANY 

ALBANY,  N.   Y. 


ft. 


ALEXANDRIA    BAY,  N.  Y. 
1896 


/I 


COMMENDATORY. 


Office  of  CORNWALL  BROS. 


Mr.  John  A.  Haddock  ; 


Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y.,  October  31,  1894. 


Dear  Sir—  I  have  heard  that  you  are  about  preparing  an  elaborate  and  highly  illus- 
trat.,d  history  of  our  river,  to  be  sold  as  a  more  worthy  Souvenir  of  our  river  and  islands 
than  has  yet  appeared.  I  have  for  some  years  felt  the  want  of  such  a  book,  many  copies 
of  which  my  sons  could  sell  over  their  counter  here  if  it  could  have  been  procured. 
Having  known  you  personally  many  years,  I  have  full  faith  in  your  ability  and  zeal  for 
the  preparation  of  such  a  work,  and  I  wish  you  much  success  and  encouragement  in 
your  labor,  which  will,  I  hope,  be  remunerative. 

Your  friend, 

ANDREW  CORNWALL, 
One  of  the  oriRinal  owners  o(  all  the  American  islands  from  Round  Island  to  Morristown. 


Law  Offices  of  JAMES  C.  SPENCER,  280  Broadway,  New  York. 
Mr.  John  A.  Haddock,  Watertown,  N.  Y.: 

My  Dear  Sir  —  Having  heard  you  express  your  ideas  as  to  a  needed  book  which 
should  suitably  illustrate  the  natural  beauties  of  the  Thousand  Island  Archipelago  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  with  views  of  leading  cottages  and  sketches  of  the  individuals  occu- 
pying them,  I  take  pleasure  in  approving  your  plan,  and  do  not  hesitate,  from  my 
knowledge  of  you  personally,  to  fully  believe  you  will  carry  out  all  you  underiake  in 
making  a  book  which  will  be  a  Souvenir  to  be  treasured  by  all  who  can  appreciate  the 
grandest  river  and  the  most  beautiful  islands  upon  the  globe.  Wishing  you  great 
success,   I  remain, 

Very  truly  yours. 

Summer  residence,  JAMES  C.  SPENCER, 

Manhattan  Island,  Vice-President  Thousand  Island  Club. 

Alexandria  B/^y,  N.  Y. 


copyrighted,  1895. 
all  rights  reserved. 


' 


/3  9<^Z 


^ 


INTRODUCTORY. 


There  have  been  many  attempts  to  depict  the  Thousand  Islands,  with  their  ever- 
varying,  changeful  scenery,  and  the  opulence  of  their  later  adornment.  Some  of  these 
efforts  have  been  honest  but  inefficient,  some  sporadic  and  fitful,  others  resulting  only  in  a 
poor  attempt  to  make  money  out  of  a  subject  too  grand  for  such  a  purpose.  And  so,  year 
after  year,  these  Islands  have  lacked  a  chronicler  and  a  delineator  who  should  present 
important  improvements  as  well  as  natural  scenes  upon  the  printed  pictorial  page.  The 
inquiry  for  a  book  that  should  meet  this  constant  and  earnest  demand  for  truthful  delineation 
of  the  fairest  spot  on  earth,  has  induced  a  few  gentlemen,  some  of  them  connected  with  the 
Thousand  Island  Ci'ib,  to  prompt  the  undersigned  to  present  to  the  public  something  that 
should  measure  up  to  the  occasion.  Accordingly  the  subscriber,  who  is  the  latest  Jefferson 
County  historian,  has  given  his  attention  to  the  subject,  and  he  now  presents  to  the  property- 
owners  upon  the  river  and  to  the  vast  number  who  yearly  visit  this  region,  the  result  of  his 
labors,  and  he  believes  that  it  faithfully  portrays  the  river  and  its  islands  as  they  exist  to-day, 
as  well  as  the  grand  improvements  made  and  being  made  there. 

It  is  in  no  sense  a  money-making  scheme,  the  promoters  being  only  desirous  that  the 
book  shall  pay  its  own  way,  as  it  should,  ana  be  a  fair  representation,  up  to  date,  of  the 
Islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  their  present  environment,  and  be  at  the  same  time,  also, 
a  fair  illustration  of  the  progress  made  up  to  1896  in  the  art  of  typography  and  artistic 
decoration. 

In  this  spirit,  then,  this  Book  is  issued,  in  the  full  belief  that  it  will  fill  a  want  which  has 
been  felt  for  the  past  ?even  years  among  the  intelligent  and  appreciative  class  who  come 
annually  to  this  section,  the  importance  of  which  appears  now  to  be  permanently  established. 

JNO.  A.  HADDOCK, 

Address  on  the  River,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

Clayton,  N.  Y. 


-'■f^ 


A 


SONG  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

Bv  Will  Cakleton. 

I. 

1  am  marching  to  the  sea  — 

To  my  king,  tlie  mighty  sea; 

In  his  tent  he  waits  for  mc  — 
In  his  tent,  wiiii  walls  of  blue, 
Dechcd  with  Hags  of  brightest  hue, 

In  his  starlit,  sunlit  tent, 

O'er  the  head  in  splendor  bent. 

II. 
I  have  messages  in  store, 

For  my  king,  the  mighty  sea; 
Great  Superior's  solemn  word. 
Huron's  answering  voice  is  heard; 
Erie's  sliclving  walls  of  land, 
Clad  with  wealth  and  comfort  o'er; 
Stern  Niagara's  thunder-pour, 
Great  Ontario's  prosperous  strand, 
Decked  with  city-pictures  grand  — 

All  send  messages  by  me. 

To  their  king,  the  mighiy  sea, 

III. 

All  my  treasures  I  must  leave  — 
AH  my  thousand  tree-fringed  isles. 
All  my  shore-hills  clad  in  smiles  — 

All  the  shadows  that  they  weave, 

All  my  woods,  with  eyes  of  blue, 

All  the  cottages  of  white. 

Bathed  in  dim  rctiected  light; 

Would  that  I  might  take  them  too. 

Floating  eastward  down  with  me, 

For  an  oifering  to  the  sea! 

IV. 
Stalely  ships  with  plumes  of  black, 
Follow  on  my  gleaming  track; 
Villages  with  sails  of  white. 
Decked  with  banners  brave  and  bright; 
Funeral  trains  of  forest  trees, 
Journey  with  me  to  the  seas  — 
Travel  with  me  toward  the  main  — 
March  amid  my  glittering  train. 

V. 

Down  the  rapid's  giddy  stair 

Rush  I  headlong  as  in  fear; 
Past  the  crags  that  linger  there  — 

Past  th'  old  gray  rock's  constant  sneer, 
To  my  death-like,  deathless  fate, 
Where  my  lord  and  king  doth  wait. 
Panic-struck,  I  rush  and  rave, 
As  some  mortals  toward  the  grave, 
Rush  and  rave  and  hurry  on, 
With  my  task  no  nearer  won. 
But  or  tranquil  or  in  haste, 
Frowning  wild  or  placid-faced. 
Eastward  still  my  soul  is  set: 
I  am  loyal,  even  yet ! 

VI. 

Times,  in  broad  blue  lakes  I  tarry, 
Kept  in  couches  soft  and  low; 

Lulled  to  sleep  as  if  by  fair}'. 
Breeze-caresses  sweep  my  brow. 

Sun-caresses  thrill  my  soul. 

Shadow-hands  my  w.iys  control; 


In  the  night's  unlaujihing  glee, 

Stars  come  out  and  smile  at  me; 

Zephyrs  from  the  wooded  west, 

Pause  awhile,  with  me  to  rest. 

"  Here,"  I  plead,  "  that  I  might  stay 

Many  a  night  and  many  a  day  !  " 

But  the  cry  is  "  Onward  !    On  !  " 

Never,  till  my  journey's  done, 

Can  I  tarry  well  or  long. 

Can  I  hush  my  marching-song. 

I  am  marching  to  the  sea  — 

To  my  king,  the  mighty  sea; 

In  his  tent  he  waits  for  me, 

In  his  tent,  with  walls  of  blue. 

Decked  with  flags  of  brightest  hue 

In  his  starlit,  sunlit  tent, 

O'er  the  head  in  splendor  bent; 

On  his  calm,  majestic  breast, 

I  will  lie,  in  changeful  rest. 


[41 


THE   HAPPY   ISLANDS. 

Bv  George  C.  Bragdon. 

There,  where  a  Thousand  Islands  sleep, 
Come  pulsing  from  Niagara's  leap 
The  blended  lakes  with  tireless  sweep  — 
Vast  lakes,  which  float  the  grain  and  ore 
Of  mighty  States  from  shore  to  shore, 
A  thousand  billowy  miles  and  more. 

'Tis  there  the  centering  waters  meet 
In  rush  sublime  and  beauty  sweet, 
Which  we  with  happy  thrills  shall  greet  — 
We  who  in  fevered  towns  have  sighed 
For  green  and  watery  spaces  wide. 
And  Nature's  murmuring  love  beside. 

Ah,  here  they  are!     The  river  here. 
Swift,  slow,  tumultuous,  crystal-clear, 
Lapping  the  islands  which  uprear 
Their  rocky  heads  with  crests  of  trees. 
Has  sure  enchantments  to  release 
The  heart,  and  change  its  pain  to  peace. 

Hail!    River  of  the  Thousand  Isles! 

Which  so  enchants  and  so  beguiles 

With  countless  charms  and  countless  wiles;: 

Flow  on  unpent,  forever  free 

And  pauseless  to  the  ocean-sea 

Which  belts  the  globe's  immensity. 

Not  there  our  goal.     Here,  here  we  stay 
Amid  the  islands  green  and  gr.iy. 
Nor  strive,  but  idly  float  and  play 
Along  the  river's  glints  and  gleams. 
And  yield  to  reveries  and  dreams 
With  which  the  quickened  fancy  teems. 

Here  v/here  the  airs  are  always  pure. 
And  wave  and  earth  and  sky  allure, 
And  whisper,  "  Let  the  best  endure," 
The  wiser  thoughts  and  instincts  grow, 
Hearts  truer  feel  and  surer  know, 
And  kindle  to  a  tenderer  glow. 

St.  Lawrence  River,  here  we  rest. 
And  here  we  end  our  wandering  quest 
To  reach  the  Islands  of  the  Blest. 
Where  Nature's  sweetest  sweets  abound 
And  sacred  waters,  sacred  ground  — 
The  Earthly  Paradise  is  found! 


LEADING   ARTICLES 


IN 


HADDOCK'S   SOUVENIR    OF   THE   ST.  LAWRENCE. 


[see  index  also.] 


Many  full-page  illustrations, 

A  grandly  written  introduction. 

Two  beautiful  poems,  by  George  C.  Bragdon 

and  Will  Carleton. 
The  Chain  of  Title. 

Biographies  of  E.  G.  Merrick,  Judge  Spencer, 
Governor  Flower,  Gen.  W.  H.  Angeli,  and 
others. 
Canada's  West  Point. 

General  description  —  legends,  romances,  In- 
dian histories  and  warlike  expeditions. 
Carlton  Island. 
Gen.  Alvord's  two  superior  articles,  "Men  I 

have  met  upon  the  Great  River." 
Thousand  Island  Park,  Chas.  Crossmon,  Cross- 
mon  House,  a  Bonaparte  in  Northern  New 
York. 
The  Mystery  of  Maple  Island,  connecting  the 
assassination  of    President  Lincoln  with  a 
death  on  this  great  river. 
Old  Fort  Frontenac  and  Modern  Kingston. 
H.  Walter  Webb,  Third  Vice-President  N.  Y. 
C.  R.  R. 

Theo.  Butterfield,  Gen.  Passenger  Agt.  R.  W. 
&  O.  R.  R. 

Col.  Z.  H.  Benton. 

Pictures   of  many  steamboat  men,  with  bio- 
graphical sketches  of  their  lives. 

[5] 


The  Red  Cross. 

The  Whittlesey  Affair. 

The  great  Balloon  Voyage  of  LaMountain  and 
Haddock. 

The  Awakening  of  Henry  Backus. 

The  Waterway  from  Chicago  to  the  Ocean. 

The  Patriot  War  in  Canada. 

The  War  of  1755. 

Travellers'  description  of  the  Thousand  Is- 
lands; some  favorable,  some  critical. 

Poetry  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 

Geology  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 

Why  the  River  runs  where  it  does  ?  —  an  able 
article  by  Prof.  Hines,  of  Watertown. 

Light-houses  of  the  Islands. 

Early  recollections  of  Alexandria  Bay. 

The  St.  Lawrence  in  War  Days. 

Round  Island  and  the  Frontenac. 

Frank  Taylor,  the  artist. 

Carlton  Island  in  the  Revolution. 

Gananoque,  past  and  present,  illustrated. 

Brockville,  illustrated. 

How  the  Indians  learned  to  run  the  Rapids. 

First  printing  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  General 

Neilson. 
The  Fowlers,  the  Spicers  and  the  Esselstyns. 
La   Salle   and    Frontenac,    and    many    other 
articles,  references  and  incidents. 


A   STURGEON   CAUGHT 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  great  changes  take 
place  in  the  habitat  of  the  finny  tribe.  Per- 
haps the  most  lasting  fishing  grounds  are  those 
off  Newfoundland,  the  straits  of  Belle  Isle  and 
Southern  Labrador,  where  the  smaller  sized 
codfish  have  swarmed  in  vast  quantities  for  over 
200  years.  Forty-five  years  ago  the  cisco  was 
the  most  prolific  fish  in  our  own  Lake  Ontario. 
The  numbers  caught  were  well-nigh  marvel- 


IN  THE   ST.  LAWRENCE. 

ous.  Now,  they  are  far  less  numerous.  In 
1850  there  were  comparatively  few  black  bass 
in  the  St.  Lawrence  or  the  lake.  Now,  they 
are  the  gamiest  fish  to  be  found,  and  vast  num- 
bers are  caught  by  expert  anglers.  We  might 
enumerate  other  varieties  that  were  once 
plentiful  but  are  now  scarce.  We  show  abcve 
a  large  sturgeon,  a  fish  once  often  caught  in 
the  St.  Lawrence,  but  not  now  so  plentiful. 
6] 


<  * 


« 


sure* 


SI>  ISLANDS. 

NABLE  PLEASURE  TRATEL. 

.king  immediate  oonncotloni  at  Clayton  without  tranifer, 
1  the  RiTer  Saguenay,  paaeing  all  the  Thoaaand  lalandi 

through  Sleeping  Cam  Niagara  Fall*  to  Portland, making 
inning  through  the  heart  of  the  Hountalna  via  Fabyan'i 
mebunkport  and  all  Sea  Coast  reaorts  of  Maine.    This 

,  Byracnse  and  Utica  to  Clajton  [Thousand  Iilan4«L  wteM 


m»* 


anuria 


Bay 


to 


montr 


.aM*0»"'" 


.        CMtHNIV  I. 


I.     ^"h. 


MCEYI, 


IWNMIOCal. 


.  ^  n»^%ft^f^  It 


•    - 


\v 


1 


-K-^' 


WATCH  I. 


><% 


.^•^?^ 


"-*"a'«*5/- 


ts  indicated  by  Figures  in  Red. 

nd Ex-Lient.-GoT.  T.  O.  Alvord. 

Mr.  Chas.  O.  Emery,  New  York. 

;ht-UoaM,  head  of  American  Channel. 

Orient B.  R.  Washburn,  New  York. 

Mrs.  K.  N.  Kobmaon,  New  York. 

d 0.  L.  Fredericks,  CarUtage,  N.Y. 

(  Rer.  Qoodrteb,  LafarseyHle,  N.  Y. 
,^  >  Arthur  Hughes,  Stone  Mills  N.  Y. 
"*  \  Frederick  Smith,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

(  L.  S.  Alnsworth,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
:>ror.  A.  H.  Brown,  Carthage,  N.  Y. 
f.  D.  Fersuaon,  '■  " 

fohn  Norwn,  "  " 

Ion.  W.  W.  Bntterfleld,  Bedwood,  N.  Y. 


>" 


^i 


tf 


Names  of  Points  indicated  by  Figures  in  Red. 

10.  kland  Royal Royal  K.  Deane,  New  York. 

n.  Seven  Isles Bradley  Winalow,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

11.  Point  ViTian;  Beiot  Toaer,  J.  J.  Kinney,  Dr.  Jonea, 

Geo.  Jonea,  William  Cooper,  and  others.  Stone  Hills, 
New  York. 
M.  Bella  Visto  Lodge F.  J.  Bocworth,  Newport,  R.  I. 

14.  Comfort  Island A.E.Clark,  Chicago. 

15.  Warner  Island H.  H.  Warner,  Rochester,  N.  T. 

16.  Cherry  Istand ]  G.  B  teT' ^"''i*^" 

17.  WauWinet '..C.  E.  Hlil,  Chicago. 

18.  Nobby  Island. H.  R.  Hesth,  New  York. 

It.  Welcome  Island S.Q.Pope,  Osdensbnit. 

ao.  Linlithgow  Islanu E.  A.  Livlngaton,  New  York. 

»\.  Bonnie  Castle Holland  Estate. 

2S.  Isle  Imperial Mrs.  H.  G.  Le  Conte,  Phlladdphla. 

23.  Point  Margnerite ..ft.  Anthony,  Newjr<  " 

34.  Sport  Island 
»,    ■ 


argnerite ...ft  AnthonT,New 


fork. 


g|   VSnmmerland   Qroap. 
K.  Manhattan  Oroop, 


>-r 


V 


o 


ir^- 


w 


f'-^^irif  !**■».« 


haps  not  as  extensive  tiv.  -      ^^^.^^^y,  -'c  wunessea  m  sue.  ho..uw.. 

that  drained  by  the  mighty  Mississippi,  yet  the     Javish  profusion  nowhere  else. 

[7] 


Miiuiuj 


^mOmnamt^i^^M^^MMMMilAiiSSm 


R 


1  ">:  -^        r^-l.sy??**-  - 


GANANOQUe 


.^^, 


KdHonalBoundtuvane' 

Through  and  LoacU  SteamwB,  dotted  rtf  .Rnai; 

Railroada,  solid  rtd  Mne 


wmmi 


o 


•THC*TOURI^ 


TIDD8I.      ^^'tll'^'f^  •         ' 


^^ 


V* 


THE  ONLY  AUi-BAIIi  ROl 

THE  GREAT  HIGHWAY  AND  FAYOMTE 

Solid  Trains  with  Elegant  Sleeping  Cars  leave  Niajjara  Falls  daily  8.10  p. 
with  powerful  steamers  of  Kichelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  for  Alexandi 
and  running  all  the  Bapids  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence  by  daylight,  the  moa 

White  Mountains  and  Portland  Express  leaves  Niagara  Falla  daily  exce 
connections  at  Norwood  for  Massena  Springs  ;  at  Moira  for  Paul  Smith's  ai 
cmd  famous  Crawford  Notch  to  Portland,  with  immediate  connections  for 
train  stops  at  all  principal  resorts  in  the  White  Mountains. 

Sleeping  Cars  on  Night  Trains  and  Drawing-Boom  Cars  on  Day  Trains  1 
connection  is  made  by  all  trains  with  Palace  Steamer  "St.  Lawrence"  for  al 


SCALE  OF  MILES 


8 


(^  .- 


.-')?*• 


«OC|Ci 


LOCAL     DISTANCES. 

MILKS 

Cape  Vincent  to  Carlton  Inland 2 

if         •'      ••  Prospect  Park....  13 

"  Clayton 14 

"  Hound  Island 16 

**  Thousand    Island 

Park 18 

**  Fisher's  Landing  90 


Cape  Vincent  to  Alexandria  Ba] 

»r         "      '♦  Kingston " 

"  •♦      ♦'  Gananoque. 

Alexandria  Bay   to   Westmin 

Park 

"  •«    »«  Bockport... 

«*  ••    "  Central  Pari 


£  •TOURISTS  •iOCAi 


LY  AI.Ii-BAIIi  ROUTB  TO  THE  THO 


AND  FAYOBITE  ROUTE  FOR  FASl    UBLE  PLEASURE  TRATEL. 


3UT£- 


«D  ISLANDS. 


lapara  Falls  daily  8.10  p.  m.  for  Thoueand  Islandf 
igation  Co.  for  Alexandria  Bay,  Montreal,  Quebfli 
oe  by  daylight,  the  moat  attractive  trip  in  the  wd 
Niagara  Falls  daily  except  Saturday  at  8.10  p.  m.v 
oira  for  Paul  Smith's  and  Adirondack  resorts,  ai 


Ung  immediate  connections  at  Clayton  without  transfer, 
I  the  Biver  Saguenay,  passing  all  the  Thousand  Islands 

through  Sleeping  Cars  Niagara  Falls  to  Portland,making 


toMontrei 


40  MJIe« 


inning  through  the  heart  of  the  Mountains  via  Fabyan's 
nediata  connections  for  Bar  Harbor,  Old  Orchard  finebunkport  and  all  Sea  Coast  resorts  of  Haine.  This 
antains. 

)m  Cars  on  Day  Trains  from  Niagara  Falls,  Bocht    |,  Syracuse  and  Utioa  to  Clayton  [Thousand  Islan^JiLiKliMNr 
it  "St.  Lawrence"  for  aU  Thousand  Island  Besort 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


;es. 

MILM. 

acent  to  Alexandria  Bay . . .  86 

"      "  Kingston 10 

'*      *'  Gananoqce IS 

ria  Bay   to   Westminster 


•« 


**  Rockport « 

"  Central  Park...  t 


Names  of  PoRS  indicated  by  Fij^ures  in  Red. 


1.  Carlton  Islani 

2.  Governor's  Isfcd. Ex-Lient.-Gov.  T.  G.  Alvord. 

8.  Calumet  IslanK Mr.  Chas.  O.  Bmery,  New  York. 

4.  Bock  Island  L»t-Hoiue,  head  of  American  Channel. 

R    J  Occident  ai :  Orient E.  H.  Washburn,  New  York. 

°*  J  Isle  of  Pin  I Mrs.  B.  N.  RobiuBon,  New  York. 

8.  Frederick  Is)  i 0.  L.  Fredericks,  Carthage,  N. Y. 

7.  WellBleyHo  T 

]    (  Rer.  Goodrich,  LafarKevUle,  N.  Y. 
a    w*«in*  RnJ  ite  2  Arthur  Hughes,  Stone  Mills,  N.  Y. 

8.  Wartof  Bra  fee  <  Frederick  ftnith.  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
.  (  L.  8.  Aintworth,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
frof.  A.  B.  Brown,  Carthage,  N.  Y. 
g.  D.  FecgUBon, 

>rton. 


9.  Jolly  Oaka, 


«« 


iphn  NoLw». 

Son.  W.  W.  Batterlleld,  Redwood,  M.  Y. 


Names  of  Points  indicated  by  Figures  in  Red. 

10.  Island  Royal Royal  £.  Deane,  New  York. 

11.  Seven  Isles Bradley  Winslow,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

11.  Point  Vivian;  Reaot  Tozer,  J.  J.  Kinney,  Dr.  Jonee, 

Geo.  Jones,  William  Cooper,  and  others,  Stone  Mills, 
New  York. 
IS.  Bella  Vista  Lodge F.  J.  Bosworih,  Newport,  R.  I. 

14.  Comfort  Island A.  B.  Clark,  Chicago. 

15.  Warner  Island. H.  H.  Warner,  Rochester,  N.  x . 

16.  cher„w«d {S:l;te''*'"f^- 

17.  WanWinet 0.  B.  Hill,  Chicago. 

18.  Nobby  Island H.  R.  Heath,  New  York. 

19.  Welcome  Island S.Q.Fop^,  Oodensbnrg. 

ao.  Linlithgow  Island B.  A.  Livlngstim,  New  York. 

21.  Bonnie  Castle Holland  Bstote. 

29.  Isle  Imperial Mrs.  H.  G.  Le  Conte,  Philad^hia. 

2S.  Point  Marguerite .ft.  Antkonj,  New  York. 

94.  Sport  Islanil ., Acker  Bstatt. 

1^1  isonunorland   Qronp. 
87.  Manhattan  Chwip, 


M 


L 


''"'^'^VfT^-r.-m^ 


awnp^iwi' 


'''■■f    ;i 


-«& 


^' 


^- 


*«?' 


,\ 


^z- 


y?- 


3 


..•■,^.. 


■«.■ . 


It  is 

place  in  .^ 

haps  the  ».  aff  ^ 

off  New 

Southern  i<uuruuui,  nwv,.v,  . 

codfish  have  swarmed  in  vast  quantities  for  over 
200  years.     Forty-five  years  ago  the  cisco  was 


«ijk,^ 


■  y 


■  'rt  ■ 


^^4: 


plentiful  but  are  now  bcc 


I  • 


Of     !l 


.M.J         c 


;  r  iiiai. 

We  show  abc  ve 


the  most  prolific  fish  in  our  own  Lake  Ontario,     a  large  sturgeon,  a  fish  once  often  caught  in 
The  numbers  caught  were  well-nigh  marvel-     the  St.  Lawrence,  but  not  now  so  plentiful 

[61 


s«-  '• 


THE   THOUSAND    ISLANDS. 


INTRODUCTORY  AND  DESCRIPTIVE. 


tv 


»  ^-i 


fHERE  is  in  North  America  a  mighty 
river,  having  its  head  in  remote  lakes, 
yhich  though  many  in  number,  are  yet  so 
great  that  one  of  them  is  known  as  the  largest 
body  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe  —  with  a 
flow  as  placid  and  pulseless  as  the  great 
Pacific  itself,  yet  as  swift  in  places  as  the 
average  speed  of  a  railway  train.  Its  waters 
are  pure  and  azure-hued,  no  matter  how  many 
turbid  streams  attempt  to  defile  them.  It  is 
a  river  that  has  no  freshets  nor  scarcely  any 
drying  up,  no  matter  how  great  the  rain  or 
snow-fall  or  how  severe  the  drouth  on  all  its 
thousand  miles  of  drainage  or  of  flow  —  so 
grand  and  yet  so  lovingly  beautiful  as  to 
enthrall  every  appreciative  soul. 

It  rises  in  the  great  fresh-water  sea,  and 
ends  in  the  great  Atlantic  —  some  places  ten 
miles  wide,  at  others  less  than  a  mile.  This 
great  river  has  never  as  yet  had  a  respectable 
history,  nor  more  than  an  occasional  artist  to 
delineate  its  beauties.  It  runs  for  very  many 
miles  between  two  great  nations,  yet  neglected 
by  both,  though  neither  could  be  as  great 
without  it  —  a  river  as  grand  as  the  La  Plata, 
as  picturesque  as  the  Rhine,  as  pure  as  the 
Lakes  of  Switzerland.  Need  we  say  that  this 
wonderful  stream  is  the  St.  Lawrence,  the 
noblest,  purest,  most  enchanting  river  of  all 
God's  beautiful  earth  ? 

This  noble  stream  drains  nearly  the  whole 
of  that  vast  region  lying  between  the  41st  and 
49th  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  the  60th 
and  93d  parallels  of  longitude  —  a  region  per- 
haps not  as  extensive  nor  as  productive  as 
that  drained  by  the  mighty  Mississippi,  yet  the 


flow  of  water  in  the  St.  Lawrence  must  exceed 
that  in  the  Mississippi,  for  the  current  in  the 
former  is  rapid,  while  the  latter,  except  in 
great  freshets,  is  contented  with  a  medium 
flow.  Rising  in  49°  north  latitude,  the  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  flow  down  through  their 
many  lakes  to  near  the  41st  parallel,  whence 
they  are  impinged  towards  the  north,  and  at 
Cape  Vincent  take  an  almost  northeast  course, 
following  that  general  direction  until  they 
reach  the  great  sea — entering  it  on  almost 
the  same  meridian  of  longitude  that  crosses  its 
remote  source  in  British  North  America.  Why 
its  history  has  so  long  remained  unwritten, 
and  why  this  noble  river  is  not  more  generally 
known,  is  perhaps  accounted  for  in  part  by 
the  fact  that  the  St.  Lawrence  traverses  a 
region  of  country  remote  from  the  great 
thoroughfares  of  the  world's  commerce  or 
trade.  It  lies  along  the  boundary  line  of 
business.  Its  banks,  to  be  sure,  are  dotted 
here  and  there  with  thriving  towns  and  cities» 
several  of  considerable  importance  in  the 
world's  traffic,  but  its  grand  use  is  in  connect- 
ing the  great  lakes  with  the  ocean.  The  region 
through  which  it  passes  is  one  of  great  interest. 
The  geological  formation  attracts  the  atten- 
tion of  the  student  and  the  artist.  It  bears  on 
its  face  the  unmistakable  traces  of  a  primeval 
condition,  found  nowhere  else  on  our  con- 
tinent, and  probably  not  in  more  striking 
beauty  anywhere  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Its 
picturesque  windings,  pure  water,  wonderful 
atmosphere,  and  great  and  varied  beauty  of 
scenery,  are  witnessed  in  such  wonderful  and 
Javish  profusion  nowhere  else.  /•»»■. . 


Ik 


[7J 


s 


A   SOUVEMR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


The  air  is  an  element  of  more  worth  than 
weight,  and  exceeds  all  others  in  its  ability  to 
impart  pleasure  and  comfort,  as  well  as  to  pain 
and  annoy.  Every  pleasure  or  pain  is  affected 
by  the  quality  of  the  air  we  breathe.  The 
atmosphere  has  not  only  to  do  with  our  tempo- 
ral happiness  and  comfort,  but  it  has  very 
much  to  do  with  making  character.  It  has 
been  observed  that  the  inhabitants  of  high, 
rugged  countries,  who  breathe  the  clear,  pure 
air  of  heaven,  are  those  who  come  nearest  to 
living  the  lives  of  noble  freemen.  The  spirit 
of  liberty  and  honor  is  said  to  inhabit  the 
mountains,  while  the  spirit  of  dependence, 
sloth  and  venality  is  found  in  the  humid, 
luxurious  low  countries;  and  as  man,  so  nature 
partakes  of  that  spirit  and  element  which  build 
up  and  beautify.  The  air  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
region  is  one  of  its  greatest  attractions.  It  is 
pure,  clear  and  invigorating.  The  early  dawn 
and  the  evening  twilight  there  are  among  the 
loveliest  on  the  globe. 

Next  to  air  in  importance  comes  water,  the 
eldest  daughter  of  creation.  It  was  upon  the 
water  that  the  spirit  of  creation  first  moved. 
It  is  coupled  with  water  that  the  greatest 
beauty  in  nature  is  found.  It  is  the  element 
that  God  commanded  to  bring  forth  living 
creatures  abundantly;  the  element  without 
which  all  creatures  on  land,  as  well  as  those 
within  its  folds,  must  perish.  Moses  gives  it 
the  first  place,  and  justly  so,  because  out  of  it 
all  things  came.  Nowhere  is  there  a  stream 
which  resembles  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the 
particular  feature  of  its  purity  and  the  rare- 
fying influences  of  the  atmosphere.  Through- 
out its  entire  length  this  great  stream  has  the 
clearness  and  purity  of  a  mountain  spring,  and 
the  water  and  air  combine  to  make  more 
beautiful  and  enjoyable  those  natural  attrac- 
tions in  scenery  for  which  it  is  fast  becoming 
known  to  the  traveler  and  the  world  in  general. 
Yet  its  wonderful  breadth  of  attractiveness,  in 
all  its  wide  range,  is  even  now  imperfectly 
understood. 

If  the  waters  of  the  St,  Lawrence  are 
attractive  and  full  of  enjoyment  and  recrea- 
tion for  the  pleasure-seeker,  its  thousands  of 
beautiful  islands  present  pictures  grand  and 


sublime  —  pictures  of  which  the  poet  painters 
have  only  dreamed.  Its  romantic  and  un- 
written history  is  only  an  attractive  field  in 
which  facts  assume  the  air  of  fiction.  The 
romance  of  American  history  is  an  interesting 
and  important  harvest,  which  is  fast  passing 
away,  and  soon  will  be  lost  forever,  unless 
garnered  into  the  great  treasure-house  of  the 
printed  page,  where  it  can  be  preserved  for 
the  coming  ages.  No  section  of  the  continent 
is  the  scene  of  events  more  important  and 
numerous,  in  our  unwritten  history,  than  that 
through  which  this  great  river  flows.  For 
it  has  been  the  principal  artery  along  which 
the  pulse  of  civilization  throbbed  for  ages  in 
its  struggles  to  penetrate  the  unknown  region 
of  the  inland  seas  of  the  far  West. 

Its  civilization  is  older  than  that  of  any 
other  section  of  the  continent.  The  scenes 
and  struggles  on  its  banks  have  been  nobler, 
grander  and  more  persistent  than  those  of  any 
other  section.  Nowhere  else  can  be  found  such 
determined  and  Herculean  efforts.  Coupled 
with  this,  in  turn,  have  come  some  of  the 
sublimest  and  grandest  examples  of  Christian 
faith  and  forbearance  to  be  found  anywhere, 
for  the  civilization  and  conversion  of  the 
native  North  American  and  the  possession  of 
this  continent.  Almost  every  village  and 
hamlet  —  especially  of  the  lower  portion  of 
the  river — has  a  history  full  of  stirring  records, 
important  in  the  first  settlement  of  this  conti- 
nent, while  the  upper  St.  Lawrence  is  closely 
identified  with  all  the  leading  events  of  the 
early  history  of  our  own  country;  and,  in 
addition  to  this,  has  an  interesting  local  his- 
tory, illustrative  of  the  events  and  trials  un- 
dergone by  a  struggling  pioneer  people  for 
the  enjoyment  of  the  priceless  boon  of  Liberty. 

To  reach  back  down  the  line  of  years  past, 
and  gather  up  the  forgotten  and  almost  lost 
scenes  and  incidents,  and  weave  about  these 
newly-discovered  sources  of  beauty  and  popu- 
lar resources  of  pleasure  the  history  of  early 
days  and  discoveries,  and  preserve  it  all,  em- 
bellished by  the  hand  of  the  artist,  for  future 
ages,  is  not  a  work  of  ease,  though  we  have 
found  it  a  work  of  pleasure.  History  will  take 
us  back  more  than  fifteen  hundred  years,  and 


I 


INTRODUCTORY. 


•here, 

f  the              1 

on  of 

and 

}n  of            flk 

:ords,            ^ft 

:onti-            ^1 

osely            ^K 

if  the            H 

d,   in            ^B 

1  his-            ■ 

s  un-             "M 

e  for            wk 

)erty>             S 

past,             ■ 

t  lost             'M 

these             \ 

jopu- 

early 

,  em- 

uture 

have             « 

1  take               1 

,  and               1 

we  find  that  there  are  few  martyrs  in  the 
Church  of  Rome  whose  name  or  fame  rests  upon 
a  more  lasting  or  better  foundation  than  that 
of  St.  Lawrence.  And  yet  in  the  New  World 
it  has  found  a  fame  and  foundation  that  shall 
be  admired  long  ages  after  the  story  of  his 
deeds  and  even  the  holy  church  which  canon- 
ized his  bones  may  have  been  forgotten.  It 
is  gratifying  to  know  that  the  object  of  our 
adoration  is  so  honorably  and  worthily  chris- 
tened, although  in  learning  this  we  are  re- 
minded of  the  ceaseless  spirit  of  change 
written  upon  all  things.  St.  Lawrence  the 
martyr  has  become  St.  Lawrence  the  river. 

The  stereotyped  falsities  of  history  are  very 
many  in  America,  and  they  creep  upon  us  with 
our  eyes  wide  open.  They  come  because 
legend  has  taken  the  place  of  fact.  The  writer 
who  would  dare  seriously  to  dispute  the  claim 
of  Columbus  to  the  honor  accorded  him  for 
nearly  three  hundred  years,  would  be  bold  in- 
deed ;  and  yet  the  position  that  he  was  not  the 
discoverer  of  America  has  been  attempted  to 
be  maintained.  The  Pilgrims  landed  at  Ply- 
mouth Rock,  and  came  to  found  a  government 
where  they  could  enjoy  religious  freedom  and 
liberty,  and  open  an  asylum  for  the  oppressed 
of  all  other  countries.  But  long  before  them 
there  came  a  colony  whose  sole  purpose  was 
TO  FISH ;  and  the  nation  they  founded  has  vied 
with  the  others,  and  grown  mighty  and  formid- 
able in  wealth  and  greatness.  It  seems  not 
altogether  unlikely  that  the  American  nation 
may  develop  characteristics  which  will  be  better 
evidence  of  its  origin  and  the  original  purpose 
of  its  founders  than  can  be  found  in  the  piety 
or  exalted  purpose  of  the  Pilgrims.  So,  every- 
where, the  great  incentive  to  explore  and  ex- 
tend government  bounds  and  influence  has 
been  that  gain  might  follow  religion. 

As  early  as  1500,  great  fleets  of  British  and 
Norman  sailors  visited  Newfoundland,  whose 
cod-fisheries  were  even  then  known  through- 
out the  Old  World.  The  coasts  of  Newfound- 
land and  Labrador  were  visited  many  times  by 
these  great  fleets  before  any  attempt  was  made 
at  evploring  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  or  the 
river,  even  at  its  mouth.  The  Spaniards  had 
then  begun  to  seek  for  treasure  on  the  south- 


west coast  of  America.  Faint  glimpses  of  the 
great  father  of  waters  had  gone  out  to  the 
world,  and  strange  stories  came  from  the 
Indians  of  its  source  and  the  great  lakes  be- 
yond. Jesuit  missionaries,  little  by  little, 
dared  to  penetrate  the  great  unknown,  and 
suffer  the  cruelties  and  hardships  of  life  in  a 
wilderness  dominated  with  savage  men  and 
beasts.  Spain  was  pushing  her  researches, 
and  the  Old  World  was  filled  with  reports  of 
strange  people  and  of  a  strange  land.  Of 
course,  fiction  and  romance  are  never  idle, 
and  they  clothed  the  whole  in  wonderful 
beauty  and  decked  the  New  World  with  gold, 
precious  stones  and  gems  of  rarest  worth  and 
excellence. 

It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  Jac- 
ques Cartier,  a  French  sea  captain,  in  1534, 
came  with  two  vessels  to  explore  the  great 
river  that  empties  through  the  Gulf  into  the 
Atlantic,  which  had  been  known  by  the  Lab- 
rador and  Newfoundland  fishermen  for  nearly 
?  hundred  years.  He  landed  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  in  the  Spring,  and  had  not  proceeded 
far  —  in  fact,  had  not  entered  the  river  at  all 
—  before  he  became  satisfied  that  the  Span- 
iards had  been  there  before  him ;  and  as  he 
progressed  further,  he  found  unmistakable 
evidence  that  these  restless,  undaunted  ex- 
plorers had  several  times  visited  those  shores 
in  search  of  mines.  They  had  ascended  the 
river  some  distance,  but  abandoned  the  search 
after  amusing  themselves  by  cruel  treatment 
of  the  innocent  natives.  It  is  claimed  by  some 
that  the  name  of  Canada  comes  from  a  corrup- 
tion of  their  expression  of  disgust  and  dis- 
appointment — "Aca-Nada  "  (here  is  nothing), 
which  the  natives  picked  up  and  held  on  to, 
without  knowing  its  meaning,  for  the  purpose 
of  designating  the  place  and  associating  with 
it  the  strangers  who  came.  Whatever  may  be 
the  merit  or  truth  of  this  story,  it  has  the 
authority  of  the  oldest  and  best  historian  of 
Canada  (Heriot). 

Cartier  returned  to  France  during  the  Sum- 
mer, having  accomplished  little  or  nothing  by 
his  journeying.  The  next  year  he  made  an- 
other voyage  to  the  Gulf,  which  was  almost  as 
barren  of  results  as  his  first  one.     He  effected 


10 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


a  landing  on  the  north  entrance  of  the  great 
river,  and  called  the  place  St.  Nicholas,  which 
name  it  still  bears.  He  also  named  a  bay  on 
the  same  coast  St.  Laurence,  for  the  reason 
that  he  entered  the  bay  on  the  loth  of  August 

—  St.  Laurence's  fast-day.  Thence  the  name 
has  spread  the  entire  length  of  the  river.  The 
Spaniards  were  the  first  to  explore  the  river,  but 
by  a  strange  coincidence,  a  Frenchman  names 
it  after  a  saint  of  Spanish  birth  and  education. 

Cartier  passed  up  the  river  on  this  voyage 
as  far  as  where  Montreal  is  now  situated,  and 
there  he  remained  during  the  Winter,  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  the  natives,  trading  with 
them  and  studying  their  habits,  customs  and 
language.  This  point  was  at  that  time  some- 
thing oT  an  Indian  village,  under  the  name  of 
"Hochelaga."  In  the  Spring  he  returned  to 
France,  and  for  four  years  the  wars  and  inter- 
nal troubles  of  his  own  country  prevented  any 
furcher  visits  or  explorations. 

About  1542  King  Francis  First  issued  letters 
to  Francis  dela  Roque,  Seigneur  de  Robervale, 
giving  him  power  of  the  King  over  "  Canada, 
Hochelaga,  Saguenay,  Terre  Neuva,  Labra- 
dor," and  other  countries  or  "cities"  of  the 
New  World.  The  commission  was  almost 
equal  to  the  command  to  ^'o  forth  and  possess 
the  earth.  Six  ships  embarked  in  this  expe- 
dition, Cartier  accompanying  it  as  chief  cap- 
tain. A  portion  of  the  party  settled  at  Que- 
bec, but  the  most  of  those  who  remained 
settled  at  Montreal  —  Cartier  among  the  num- 
ber. The  vessels  returned  to  France  laden 
with  furs  which  were  gathered  during  the 
Winter.  The  next  year  they  came  again,  and 
found  the  little  colony  in  good  condition. 
Cartier  then  explored  the  river  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Saguenay,  and  the  new  scenes  could 
hardly  be  believed  even  by  those  who  were  in 
the  midst,  much  less  by  those  who  listened  to 
the  report  of  them.  This  feeling  is  still  shared 
in  a  pleasurable  degree  by  those  who  behold 
for  the  first  time  the  scenery  of  the  lower  St. 
Lawrence  and  its  tributaries.  A  third  expe- 
dition to  Canada  was  undertaken  two  years 
after,  under  Roberval,  but  it  proved  a  failure 

—  all  the  ships  being  lost,  and  no  survivor  was 
left  to  tell  the  story. 


The  growth  of  the  French  colony  was  very 
slow,  and  its  h'story  is  one  of  great  hardships 
and  privations.  The  rigorous  climate,  the 
bloodthirsty  and  hostile  natives,  the  great 
number  of  wild  beasts,  all  combined  to  neu- 
tralize and  circumscribe  every  effort  at  happi- 
ness, and  even  a  tolerable  existence  was  hardly 
attainable.  Then  follow  the  expeditions  of 
Champlain,  who  traversed  the  discoveries  of 
Cartier,  and  penetrated  still  farther  west,  and 
reached  out  to  the  north  and  south  through 
the  tributaries  of  the  great  river  ;  and  for  the 
first  time  the  exploration  of  the  country  was 
begun  in  earnest.  Companies  were  formed, 
and  aid  and  assistance  obtained  from  the 
French  government,  and  large  investments 
were  made  by  capitalists  and  speculators. 
The  Indian  wars  and  massacres  which  followed 
have  scarcely  parallels  in  American  history. 
The  great  tribes  of  Algonquins,  Hurons  and 
Iroquois  roamed  at  will  from  the  upper  Missis- 
sippi to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  began 
to  look  with  jealous  eyes  upon  the  incursions 
of  the  white  man.  The  fur-trade  began  to  be 
the  great  business  of  the  colonists,  and  the  St. 
Lawrence  river  was  the  thoroughfare  by  which 
the  tribes  from  the  lake  country  were  enabled 
to  reach  Montreal,  where  they  disposed  of 
their  stock  of  skins.  It  was  by  this  trade  that 
the  river  was  really  opened  up  to  the  adven- 
turous white  man. 

The  events  of  these  years,  and  the  progress 
of  civilization  are  interesting;  they  are  the 
very  romance  of  American  history,  and  per- 
tain to  that  which  is  fast  becoming  the  most 
enjoyable  and  pleasing  portion  of  our  conti- 
nent in  Summer.  From  the  foot  of  Lake 
Ontario  to  Prescott  is  a  continued  stream  of 
romance  and  beauty,  which  our  artist  will 
portray  by  his  camera.  Surely  the  region  in 
Summer  is  one  calculated  to  make  us  ask,  as 
we  move  amid  the  delights, 

"  Was  it  not  dropt  from  heaven  ?" 

Not  a  breath  but  bears  enchantment ;  not  a 
cliff  but  flings  or*  the  clear  wave  some  image 
of  delight.  Every  turn  and  motion  of  the 
boat  brings  new  views,  new  scenes,  new  life : 
scenes  that  fascinate  the  eye,  and  pictures 


THE  CHAIN  OF   TITLE. 


II 


that  draw  the  soul  in  wondering  admiration 
to  the  great  Artist  Divine.  Be  it  ours  to 
muse  on  such  scenes  ;  ours  to  glide  through 
them  from  daybreak  till  the  beautiful  night 
creeps  on  and  broods  in  solemn  stillness  over 
all.  Through  all  the  years  of  life  the  memory 
of  such  scenes  last ;  they  come  in  dreams,  and 
we  revisit  them  in  memory's  treasure-house. 
They  draw  us  nearer  the  really  good  and 
beautiful  which  we  all  some  day  hope  to  enjoy. 
The  work  in  hand  is  one  of  importance  to 
Canada  and  the  United  States,  and  is  of  espe- 
cial interest  to  persons  who  live  within  the 
section  of  country  covered  by  it,  as  well  as  to 
all  admirers  of  American  scenery.  The  scope 
and  design  is  sufficiently  broad  to  comprehend 
everything  of  interest.  The  picturesque  por- 
tions are  within  the  limits  named,  and  they  are 
artistic.  Views  of  scenery  and  of  villas  alone 
will  make  the  work  of  great  value.  The  scenes 
will  not  only  be  new,  never  before  having 
been  presented  to  the  public  in  this  complete 
form  —  but  the  enjoyment  and  improvement 
of  them  by  the  pleasure-seekers  who  make  the 
islands  their  permanent  Summer  homes,  is 
also  a  new  feature  in  American  Summer-life, 
and  adds  very  much  to  the  natural  beauty. 
These  islands  are  petty  kingdoms,  lying  in 
close  and  friendly  proximity  to  each  other  — 
ruled  by  no  power  except  the  wishes,  comfort 
and  happiness  of  those  who  call  them  "  Home." 
In  the  upper  St.  Lawrence  there  are  over 
fifteen  hundred  of  these  islands.  A  large  por- 
tion of  them  are  owned  by  wealthy  persons, 
many  of  whom  have  built  upon  them  fine  resi- 


dences, and  laid  out  tasteful  grounds.  Within 
the  past  few  years  the  improvements  in  this 
direction  have  been  very  great.  One  immense 
camp-meeting  enterprise  has  railed  into  exist- 
ence hundreds  of  fine  cottages  on  the  largest 
island,  and  many  desirable  residences  on  the 
lower  end  of  the  same,  while  every  island, i 
during  the  summer  months,  seems  to  bear  its 
portion,  if  not  of  permanent  Summer-homes, 
of  transient  tenting  or  camping  parties. 
Skiffs  and  steam  yachts  being  the  only  means 
of  getting  from  island  to  island,  or  from  an 
island  to  the  main  shore,  they  are  of  necessity 
numerous,  and  handsome  and  expensive  ones 
are  plenty.  They  move  silently  about,  with 
fishing  or  visiting  parties,  in  the  day-time; 
and  when  the  soft  evening  air,  so  peculiar  to 
this  region,  has  settled  down,  and  the  beautiful 
sunset  faded  out,  the  different  islands  will  be- 
come illuminated  ;  boats  loaded  with  happy 
pleasure-seekers  glide  about  among  them ; 
then  it  is  that  the  search-light  expedition  gets 
in  its  weird  work ;  the  music  of  bands  and  of 
voices  floats  out  upon  the  pure,  clear  air,  over 
the  placid  waters  —  and  the  heart  cannot  but 
respond  in  its  fullest  gladness.  Nowhere  on 
earth,  away  from  the  silent  Adriatic,  has  the 
poet's  dream  of  Venice  been  so  fully,  raptur- 
ously realized.  For  fully  forty  miles  in  the 
upper  St.  Lawrence  (between  Kingston,  Cape 
Vincent  and  Brockville),  where  these  islands 
are  thickest,  the  scenery  by  day  is  grand  and 
inspiring,  while  the  illuminations,  the  music, 
the  flashing  boats  and  the  festivities  make 
the  evenings  enchanting. 


THE  CHAIN  OF  TITLE. 


not  a 


/^THE  importance  of  these  islands,  which 
T^  form  the  northwestern  boundary  of 
Jefferson  county,  demands  historical  considera- 
tion distinct  and  separate  from  the  towns  in 
which  they  are  situated.  Cape  Vincent,  Clay- 
ton, Orleans  and  Alexandria  each  claim  a  part 
of  the  islands,  since  they  are  mapped  and  de- 
scribed as  belonging  to  the  towns  which  front 
upon  the  river  opposite.  The  islands  proper 
really   begin  at  Cape  Vincent  and  Kingston, 


and  extend  to  Morristown  and  Brockville, 
about  thirty-eight  miles  below,  and  are  about 
1,500  in  number. 

The  author  has  been  sometimes  puzzled 
what  to  believe  as  he  listens  to  diverse  state- 
ments of  the  same  general  facts  as  related  by 
different  individuals.  To  understand  the 
errors  of  many  such  statements,  at  once  de- 
monstrates the  unreliability  of  oral  testimony, 
and  shows  the  importance  of  serious  inve&ti- 


12 


A  SOUVENIR  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


gation  before  making  a  record  for  the  printed 
page.  It  was  once  believed  by  many  that 
Wellsley  Island  was  for  a  time  held  half-and- 
half  by  both  Canada  and  the  United  States. 
The  inconsistency  of  such  a  location  of  the 
dividing  line  between  two  governments  will  be 
apparent  to  the  most  casual  observer.  But 
under  such  misinformation  there  were  numer- 
ous settlements  by  Canadians  upon  that  im- 
portant island,  claiming  that  they  were  within 
the  limits  of  their  own  country.  The  truth 
is  that  in  the  treaty  division  of  these  islands 
there  was  no  attempt  to  divide  any  island. 
The  treaty  called  for  a  line  running  up  the 
"  main  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  but 
when  the  commissioners  came  on  to  locate  the 
line,  they  found  two  main  channels,  both 
navigable,  though  the  southeast  (the  American) 
channel  was  by  far  the  straightest,  and  is  un- 
doubtedly the  main  channel  of  the  river  at 
that  point;  and  so  the  commissioners  " gave 
and  took  "  islands  under  the  treaty,  Wellsley 
Island  falling  to  the  United  States  because  so 
rear  its  main  shore,  and  Wolfe  Island  going 
to  the  Canadians  for  a  similar  reason. 

The  place  which  this  beautiful  region  holds 
in  American  history  is  second  only  to  that 
occupied  by  New  England  and  Plymouth 
Rock,  while  the  memories  and  traditions  which 
cluster  around  it  are  as  thrilling  and  romantic 
as  are  to  be  found  in  the  new  world.  Wars, 
piracy,  tragedy  and  mystery  have  contributed 
to  its  lore.  The  people  of  the  United  States 
should  ever  bear  in  mind  that  this  river  was 
discovered  by  the  Spanish,  conquered  by  the 
French,  again  conquered  by  the  English, 
whose  footprints  have  become  indelible.  That 
nation  yet  controls  the  whole  river  for  long 
distances,  and  is  half  owner  for  yet  other 
long  distances.  It  is  the  grand  highway  for 
both  Canada,  England  and  America.  May  it 
ever  remain  such. 

The  St.  Lawrence  was  discovered  by  Jac- 
ques Cartier,  the  French  explorer,  in  1535, 
but  he  did  not  proceed  farther  up  the  stream 
than  to  explore  the  St.  Louis  rapids  above 
Montreal.  There  is  much  uncertainty  as  to 
the  identity  of  the  white  man  who  first  gazed 
upon  the  beautiful   scene  presented   by  the 


Thousand  Islands.  The  early  discoverers  were 
less  interested  in  scenery  than  in  the  practical 
things  which  pertained  to  navigation,  trade 
and  travel,  and  the  spreading  of  Christianity. 
Champlain,  in  1615,  beginning  at  the  western 
end  of  Lake  Ontario,  explored  that  lake  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  Sorel  river,  thus  passing 
through  the  Thousand  Island  region  on  to 
Lake  Ontario  and  the  Bay  of  Quinte. 

How  or  when  or  by  whom  the  world's  atten- 
tion was  first  called  to  this  archipelago  is  cer- 
tainly a  matter  of  doubt,  but  certainly  at  an 
early  date  it  had  impressed  itself  upon  the  lover 
of  the  grand  and  beautiful,  for  at  least  two 
centuries  ago  the  French  christened  it  "  Les 
Mille  Isles  "—The  Thousand  Isles.  The  later 
and  more  completely  descriptive  English  name 
for  it  is  "The  Lake  of  a  Thousand  Islands." 
The  St.  Lawrence  has  marked  the  line  of 
separation,  and  the  Thousand  Islands  have 
been  the  scene  of  some  of  the  important  cam- 
paigns in  four  great  conflicts  between  nations. 
The  first  was  the  Indian  war  between  the 
Algonquins  and  the  Iroquois,  which  continued 
many  years,  with  occasional  intermissions. 
The  second  struggle  was  between  the  French 
and  English,  and  some  of  its  hostile  meetings 
and  victories  and  defeats  took  place  among  the 
islands  and  on  the  neighboring  shores.  In  the 
American  Revolutionary  war  with  England, 
and  that  between  the  same  forces  in  18 12,  the 
defense  of  this  locali«^y  was  of  decided  im- 
portance, but  its  joint  occupancy  was  settled 
by  the  wise  men  of  both  countries. 

Some  of  the  most  exciting  incidents  of  that 
disgraceful  military  adventure  known  as  the 
Patriot  War,  with  its  intermittent  outbreaks 
from  1837  to  1839,  took  place  on  this  part  of 
the  river,  notably  the  burning  of  the  Canadian 
steamer  Sir  Robert  Peel,  on  Wellsley  Island, 
on  the  night  of  May,  29,  1838,  and  the  battle 
of  the  Windmill,  near  Prescott,  Ont.,  Novem- 
ber 13,  of  the  same  year. 

The  development  and  wonderful  increase  in 
the  value  of  these  islands  have  been  more 
especially  due  to  influences  which  have  origi- 
nated at  Alexandria  Bay.  The  islands  were 
transferred  to  the  State  of  New  York  through 
the  several  treaties  with  the  aboriginies,  follow- 


m 


A  RAINY  DAY  AT   THE  ISLANDS. 


«3 


5 


i 


ing  the  same  chain  of  title  by  which  the  main 
shore,  from  the  Hudson  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
came  under  the  proprietary  and  governing  con- 
trol of  the  State.  The  dividing  line  between 
the  United  States  and  Canada  passes  some- 
what arbitrarily  among  the  islands,  varying  in 
size  from  a  small  pile  of  rocks  covered  by  a 
few  stunted  trees,  to  others  quite  large  —  one 
of  them  (Wellsley  Island)  containing  nearly 
10,000  acres  of  arable  land.  This  valuable 
island  was  conceded  to  the  United  States  un- 
der the  treaty  with  England,  negotiated  at  the 
close  of  the  war  for  independence.  The  State 
of  New  York,  by  patent  under  its  great  seal, 
conveyed  the  islands  to  Colonel  Elisha  Camp, 
a  distinguished  citizen  of  Sackets  Harbor, 
N.  Y.  In  1845  Azariah  Walton  and  Chester- 
field Parsons  purchased  (not  from  Col.  Camp, 
but  from  Yates  &  Mclntyre,  of  lottery  fame, 
whose  title  came  from  Camp),  the  northwest 
half  of  Wellsley  Island  and  "all  the  islands  in 
the  American  waters  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence 
from  the  foot  of  Round  Island  (near  Clayton) 
to  Morristown,"  a  distance  of  some  thirty-five 
miles.  The  consideration  was  ^3,000.  Event- 
ually the  Parsons  interest  was  purchased  by 
Walton,  who  became  sole  owner,  and  continued 
as  such  until  the  firm  of  Cornwall  &  Walton 
was  established  in  1853,  when  they  purchased 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  remaining  half  of 
Wellsley  Island,  and  then  that  firm  became  sole 


owner  of  all  these  islands,  having  vested  in 
them  all  the  rights  and  title  originally  granted 
Colonel  Camp  by  the  State  of  New  York. 
To  Hon.  Andrew  Cornwall,  for  nearly  fifty 
years  at  Alexandria  Bay,  and  always  its  de- 
voted friend  and  advocate,  is  due  the  greatest 
credit  for  the  movement  which  has  developed 
the  Thousand  Islands,  and  he  is  yet  spared  to 
greet  each  season  the  great  company  who 
come  year  by  year  to  enjoy  the  grand  river. 
A  brief  sketch  of  his  life  should  be  published 
and  appreciated.  He  is  the  patriarch  of  the 
American  side  of  the  upper  St.  Lawrence. 

The  value  of  the  islands  was  quite  nominal 
until  they  fell  under  the  new  firm's  control, 
and  even  for  several  years  afterward.  Event- 
ually there  grew  up  a  demand  for  them,  and 
they  were  sold  low,  but  with  a  clause  in  the 
conveyance  requiring  a  cottage  to  be  erected 
within  three  years.  Col.  Staples  obtained  as 
a  free  gift  the  grounds  upon  which  he  erected 
the  Thousand  Island  House.  As  an  indica- 
tion of  the  present  value  of  at  least  one  of 
these  islands,  it  is  now  made  public  that 
$10,000  was  offered  and  refused  for  an  island 
sold  by  Cornwall  &  Walton  for  $100.  The 
Canadian  islands  were  not,  of  course,  included 
in  the  grant  to  Camp,  Yates  &  Mclntyre,  or  to 
Cornwall  &  Walton.  A  considerable  number 
of  these  Canadian  islands  were  lately  sold  by 
that  Government. 


A  RAINY  DAY  AT  THE  ISLANDS. 


CUNSHINE  and  daylight  are  at  their  best 
^S/  among  these  islands.  But  even  a  rainy 
day  has  its  compensations.  Then  the  men 
stay  around  the  hotels,  and  devote  themselves 
to  the  ladies,  who  are  not  so  much  given  to 
fishing  as  are  their  escorts.  The  book  that 
was  but  lately  cast  aside  for  something  prom- 
ising greater  zest,  is  now  resumed  at  the 
turned-down  page,  and  the  promised  letter  is 
thought  of  and  leisurely  written.  The  ladies 
gather  upon  the  verandas  of  the  hotels,  and 
with  crocheting  and  talk  and  exchange  of  ex- 
periences, pass  away  the  time.  Many  predic- 
tions are  made  as  to  the  duration  of  the  rain, 


and  with  friendly  chat,  not  disguising  an 
occasional  yawn,  the  hour  for  an  early  dinner 
soon  arrives,  and  after  that  comes  the  after- 
noon nap,  the  early  tea  and  then  the  pleasures 
of  the  evening.  Some  dance,  the  young 
brides  and  the  other  bright  ones  who  are  very 
willing  to  become  brides  and  share  in  the 
happiness  they  watch  so  intently,  these  steal 
away  to  the  darker  corners  of  the  verandas, 
where  confidences  and  an  occasional  pressure 
of  the  hand  (possibly  a  kiss)  may  be  indulged 
in  without  too  much  publicity.  So,  almost 
unflaggingly,  the  day  passes  away,  and  John, 
the  oarsman,  promising  fair  weather  to-mor- 


14 


A   SOU  VEX IR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


row,  stillness  and  sleep  creep  over  the  happy 
company,  who  are  willing  to  declare  that  even 
a  rainy  day  is  enjoyable  among  the  Thousand 
Islands,  where  the  soft  outlines  of  the  ever- 
varying  shore  are  half  hidden,  half  revealed 
through  the  rainy  mist,  as  if  waiting  for  the 
sun's  enchanting  power  to  develop  their  hid- 
den mysteries  and  reveal  their  entrancing, 
restful  beauties.  This  is  indeed  that  "  Port 
of  Peace,"  into  which,  when  once  you  have 
sailed  your  boat,  you  are  glad  to  stay,  and  you 
leave  the  spot  with  sad  regrets,  to  be  remem- 
bered always  as  the  place  where  the  soul  is 
lifted  up  to  God  in  glad  thankfulness  that  He 
ever  made  such  a  resting  spot  for  His  weary 
children,  who,  through  many  pilgrimages  in 
many  lands,  at  last  find  here  a  spot  that  fills 
the  hungry  soul  with  satisfaction. 

Now,  AS  TO  Health. 

All  who  have  ever  remained  here  for  a  week 
are  conscious  that  after  the  third  or  fourth 
day  there  is  a  peculiar  change  in  the  system. 
If  you  have  been  troubled  with  insomnia,  it 
begins  to  leave  you,  and  natural,  restful  sleep 
asserts  its  sway.  You  like  to  sit  and  rest, 
your  legs  become  lazy,  and  you  are  not  at  all 
anxious  for  long  walks.  The  hotel's  shady 
settees  have  become  matters  for  considera- 
tion ;  you  conclude,  after  much  argument, 
which  is  the  easiest  one,  and  best  protected 
from  the  sun.  You  yawn  often,  and  wonder 
what  has  come  over  you.  You  can  lay  down 
and  take  a  nap  at  almost  any  hour  after  lo 
A.  M.  You  languidly  push  aside  the  news- 
paper whose  leaders  only  last  week  were  read 
with  the  most  intense  interest.  The  spirit  of 
Rest  creeps  upon  you  almost  unawares,  for 
your  system  is  being  fed  upon  the  ozone  of 
this  health-giving  spot.  The  very  air  becomes 
an  active  ally  in  behalf  of  your  overworked 
nerves,  and  before  you  are  aware  of  it,  you 
begin  to  fill  up  with  reserve  force,  that  shall 
stand  you  in  good  stead  in  the  city's  heat  and 
push. 

These  beneficial  influences  are  within  the 
reach  of  all.  There  are  now  hotels  and 
boarding-houses  at  Alexandria  Bay,  Thousand 
Island  Park,   Clayton,  Cape  Vincent,  West- 


minster Park,  Round  Island,  and  at  many 
other  .esorts,  where  the  poor  man  can  find 
entertainment  within  his  means,  and  the  rich 
man,  too  (much  as  he  is  criticised),  may  also 
find  comforts  adapted  to  his  desires.  In 
former  times  there  were  only  the  more  expen- 
sive resorts,  and  that  kept  away  the  middle- 
class  of  summer  tourists.  That  is  all  changed 
now,  and  every  condition  except  the  chroni- 
cally poor  can  find  boarding  houses  within 
their  means.  It  will  not  be  long  before  this 
great  national  Vacation  Park,  38  miles  long, 
will  be  eagerly  sought  by  all  conditions  of 
society,  from  the  skilled  mechanic  to  the 
millionaire. 

The  Value  of  Rest. 

Many  people  make  the  mistake  of  sup- 
posing that  a  summer  vacation  is  not  com- 
plete unless  devoted  to  various  sorts  of 
physical  exercise.  It  seems  to  be  taken  for 
granted  that  the  energies  of  body  and  mind 
cannot  be  recuperated  except  by  trips  and 
diversions  that  call  for  muscular  effort.  Sum- 
mer resorts  that  do  not  offer  such  opportuni- 
ties are  often  thought  to  be  wanting  in  proper 
attractions.  There  is  another  class  of  people, 
such  as  artists,  teachers  and  clergymen,  who 
seek  places  where  they  may  pursue  their 
usual  work  amid  new  surroundings.  Under 
suitable  restrictions  perhaps  no  harm  comes 
from  this.  Change  of  air  and  of  diet  are 
beneficial,  and  new  faces  and  new  scenery 
tend  to  break  up  the  monotony  of  all  toil  and 
care.  There  are  not  enough  people,  however, 
who  appreciate  the  value  of  a  period  of  abso- 
lute rest,  an  entire  cessation  from  activity. 
Just  as  land  is  better  for  being  allowed  to  lie 
fallow,  the  physical  and  mental  energies  of 
man  are  better  for  being  allowed  to  repose  for 
a  time.  Nothing  is  lost  by  permitting  mind 
and  body  each  year  to  indulge  thus  in  a  few 
days'  slumber.  A  short  season  spent  in  loung- 
ing about  the  Thousand  Islands,  watching  the^ 
shifting  water,  or  in  idling  in  the  woods  and 
fields,  with  their  fresh  odors  and  changing 
views  of  hill  and  dale,  light  and  shade,  island 
and  shore,  as  they  intermingle  and  then  sepa- 
ate,  will  often  fill  the  frame  with  new  vigor 


HON.  ELDRIDGE  G.  At E KICK. 


»5 


and  tlie  mind  with  new  impressions.  Particu- 
larly is  such  a  change  beneficial  when  the 
thermometer  is  up  among  the  nineties.  Then, 
if  ever,  the  energies  should  be  carefully  hus- 
banded. The  English  philosopher  who  as- 
serted that  Americans  work  too  hard  and  take 


too  little  leisure,  stated  i  truth  which  intelli- 
gent foreign  visitors  have  frequently  noted. 
'J'his  warning  has  a  special  timeliness  just  at 
l)resent,  and  the  seeker  after  a  spot  where  the 
very  soul  may  rest  will  find  his  El  Dorado 
among  the  Thousand  Islands. 


i 


HON.   ELORIDG 

It  is  fortunate  for  our  history  that  we  are 
able  to  present  to  our  readers,  from  an  en- 
tirely reliable  source,  a  very  circumstantial 
and  accurate  record  of  the  life  of  one  of 
the  great  river's  most  widely  known,  distin- 
guished and  able  denizens,  who  rose  from  small 
beginnings  to  the  very  first  rank  in  business 
and  in  citizenship.  Indeed,  the  writer  re- 
members no  man  in  Jefferson  county  who  was 
superior  to  Mr.  Merick.  There  were  two  or 
three,  Hon  . )  ville  Hungerford,  Hon.  C.  B. 
Hoard,  andj.  .rhaps  Gen.  Wm.  H.  Angel,  who 
stood  as  high  in  probity  and  faithfulness  to 
friends  and  to  society,  and  were  as  patriotic 
and  high  minded  as  Mr.  Merick,  but  he  had 
no  "  superior  "  in  his  adopted  county,  nor  in 
Northern  New  York,  nor  on  the  river. 

He  was  the  fifth  child  in  a  family  of  nine 
children,  six  boys  and  three  girls,  and  was 
born  March  6,  1802,  in  Colchester,  Delaware 
county,  N.  Y.,  from  which  place  he  moved 
with  the  family  to  Sherburne,  Chenango 
county,  at  the  age  of  about  four  years.  The 
section  to  which  the  family  removed  was 
almost  an  unbroken  wilderness,  with  few  in- 
habitants and  no  schools  or  opportunity  for 
obtaining  an  education.  The  principal  amuse- 
ment for  a  boy  of  his  age  was  picking  up  the 
brush  and  burning  it,  preparing  the  land  for 
crops.  The  first  school  he  attended  was  at 
the  age  of  nine.  The  school  held  for  only 
four  months.  At  the  end  of  the  four  months 
he  was  able  to  read  a  newspaper  fairly  well. 
He  continued  at  home,  himself  and  brother 
carrying  on  the  farm,  until  eleven,  at  which 
time  he  went  to  live  with  a  man  named  Clark. 
That  family  had  no  children,  and  Eldridge 
was  treated  as  their  own  child.  Mr.  Clark 
had   a  small   farm   on   the  Chenango    river, 


E  G.   MERICK. 

which  this  boy  carried  on  principally,  with 
occasionally  a  little  help  from  the  owner. 
His  business,  after  getting  through  with  the 
work  of  the  farm  in  the  fall,  was  to  chop  and 
put  up  ten  cords  of  wood  before  going  to 
school  the  first  year,  increasing  it  five  cords 
e.ich  year  until  he  got  twenty-five  cords,  which 
was  all  that  was  needed  for  the  family.  Eld- 
ridge attended  the  country  school  from  three 
to  four  months  each  winter,  until  seventeen 
years  of  age,  and  then  he  commenced  teach- 
ing. When  Mr.  Clark  went  to  St.  Lawrence 
county  in  1820,  young  Merick  went  witii  him, 
remaining  there  until  twenty-one  years  ^'  age. 

Arriving  at  majority,  the  people  with  whom 
he  lived  not  being  in  a  situation  to  do  any- 
thing for  him,  he  found  it  necessary  to  shift 
for  himself.  His  first  effort  was  a  contract 
for  building  a  stone  wall  at  Russell,  St.  Law- 
rence county,  after  which  he  went  to  Water- 
town,  Jefferson  county,  working  there  for 
several  months,  and  delivered  the  material 
for  the  old  stone  Presbyterian  church  ;  thence 
to  Sackets  Harbor,  to  work  for  Festus  Clark, 
a  brother  of  his  former  employer,  as  clerk  in 
a  small  store.  Remaining  there  for  a  short 
time,  he  went  to  Depauville,  in  the  same  capa- 
city, with  Stephen  Johnson,  who  had  a  coun- 
try  store,  and  was  also  engaged  in  the  lumber 
business  for  the  Quebec  market. 

He  remained  with  Mr.  Johnson  two  years, 
superintending  his  lumber  business  largely, 
and  while  there  became  acquainted  with  Mr. 
Jesse  Smith,  who  had  been  furnishing  Mr. 
Johnson  with  means  to  carry  on  his  lumber 
business.  Mr.  Johnson  was  unfortunate  in 
business  and  failed  at  the  end  of  two  years, 
and  was  sold  out  by  the  sheriff,  which  sale 
was  attended  by  Mr.  Smith  as  a  creditor,  and 


i6 


A   SOUVENIR  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


knowing  it  threw  young  Merick  out  of  em- 
ployment, he  offered  him  a  situation,  which 
was  gladly  accepted.  This  was  about  1826. 
Mr.  Smith  was  doing  a  very  large  mercantile 
and  manufacturing  business  for  those  times. 
After  being  with  him  for  a  little  over  a  year, 
he  sent  Mr.  Merick  with  a  store  of  goods  to 
Perch  River,  and  the  following  Summer  sent 
him  to  Quebec  to  look  after  his  lumbering 
interests,  and  in  the  Fall  of  the  same  year 
offered  him  a  partnership  and  an  interest  in 
the  business,  which  was  accepted,  and  so 
young  Merick  became  the  manager.  The 
business  developed  into  a  pretty  large  one, 
devoted  principally  to  lumber  designed  for 
the  Quebec  market,  and  also  the  building  and 
running  of  vessels.  The  timber  and  staves, 
which  were  the  principal  business,  were  ob- 
tained about  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario  and 
Lake  Erie,  extending  into  Lake  Huron,  and 
were  transported  by  vessels  across  the  lakes 
to  Clayton,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  there 
made  into  rafts  for  transportation  to  Quebec. 
Of  these  rafts  there  were  several  made  up 
every  year,  amounting  (according  to  their 
size)  to  $40,000  or  $50,000  each.  These  rafts 
had  to  be  made  very  strong  to  run  the  rapids 
of  the  river,  seven  or  eight  in  number.  Each 
stick  of  oak  timber  was  tied  up  with  large  oak 
wisps,  forming  what  was  called  a  dram,  and 
from  ten  to  twenty  or  thirty  drams  in  a  raft. 
The  rafts  were  propelled  by  a  number  of 
small  sails,  but  usually  went  but  little  faster 
than  the  current.  At  the  rapids  a  pilot  and 
extra  men  were  taken  to  conduct  the  raft 
through  the  rapids  ;  a  pilot  for  each  dram  or 
section,  the  raft  being  divided  into  several 
sections  for  running  the  rapids.  Sometimes  a 
large  raft  required  from  200  to  300  men. 
Frequently  they  would  get  broken  up  in  the 
rapids  and  run  ashore,  attended  with  consider- 
able loss  and  expense  in  saving  the  pieces. 
Arriving  at  Quebec,  they  were  usually  sold  on 
from  two  to  six  months'  time,  but  the  percent- 
age of  loss  by  bad  debts  was  very  small. 
Better  facilities  were  needed  for  transporting 
this  square  oak  timber,  and  a  ship  yard  was 
established  at  Clayton.  After  Mr.  Smith  re- 
moved to  Ohio,   Mr.   Merick  continued  the 


timber  trade,  adding  forwarding  and  grain 
business,  associating  with  Messrs.  Fowler  and 
Esselstyn. 

The  business  in  the  winter  was  arranging 
and  superintending  the  shipments,  selecting 
the  timber  in  the  country,  and  getting  it  for- 
warded for  shipping,  and  in  building  vessels, 
of  which  the  firm  generally  had  one  or  more 
on  the  stocks.  They  built,  with  one  or  two 
exceptions,  all  the  steamboats  forming  the 
justly  celebrated  line  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
River  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  American  side. 

The  "  Reindeer  "  fleet,  which  at  one  time 
numbered  fourteen  vessels,  were  built  at  his 
Clayton  yard ;  also  three  steamers  of  the 
Ontario  Navigation  Company,  all  of  them  hav- 
ing his  careful  supervision. 

With  D.  N.  Barney  &  Co.,  he  built,  about 
1844,  the  steamer  Empire,  to  run  between 
Buffalo  and  Chicago.  Her  increased  tonnage 
and  decks  attracted  much  attention,  with  many 
prophecies  of  failure,  but  she  proved  a  success 
and  was  the  vanguard  of  the  fine  fleet  of  lake 
transports. 

When  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  was  built, 
however,  following  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Lake  Ontario,  the  competition  ruined  the 
business  of  these  passenger  steamers.  The  line 
ceased  to  be  reruunerative,  and  the  boats  were 
sold,  some  to  go  to  Montreal ;  one  went  to 
Charlestown,  S.  C,  and  afterwards  was  en- 
gaged in  the  rebel  service  in  the  war  of  the 
rebellion. 

He  had  previously  established  a  house  in 
Cleveland,  one  in  Oswego  and  one  in  Buffalo, 
the  object  being  to  furnish  business  for  the 
vessels  on  the  lakes.  Each  additional  facility 
only  showed  the  necessity  of  still  further  facili- 
ties. The  firm  decided  to  build  a  large  flour- 
ing mill  in  Oswego,  which  had  the  largest 
capacity  of  any  mill  in  the  country  at  that  time, 
turning  out  from  1,000  to  1,200  barrels  a  day, 
and  having  thirteen  runs  of  stone. 

He  was  interested  in  railroad  building  in 
Ohio,  but  it  was  before  the  days  of  floating 
bonds  and  watering  stocks,  but  not  of  incom- 
petent, reckless  superintendents.  The  enter- 
prise was  a  failure.  But  through  their  railroad 
enterprise  the  firm  was  enabled  not  only  to  con- 


5  and   grain 
Fowler  and 

as  arranging 
its,  selecting 
etting  it  for- 
,ding  vessels, 

one  or  more 
1  one  or  two 

forming  the 
itario  and  the 
;rican  side. 

at  one  time 
e  built  at  his 
imers  of  the 
I  of  them  hav- 

,e  built,  about 
run  between 
eased  tonnage 
ion,  with  many 
oved  a  success 
le  fleet  of  lake 

road  was  built, 
Lawrence  and 
»n  ruined  the 
ners.  The  line 
the  boats  were 
,  one  went  to 
wards  was  en- 
the  war  of  the 


led  a  house  in 
one  in  Buffalo, 
Lisiness  for  the 
ditional  facility 
1  further  facili- 
d  a  large  flour- 
lad  the  largest 
try  at  that  time, 
o  barrels  a  day, 
jne. 

ad  building  in  . 
days  of  floating  \ 
t  not  of  inconi- 
ts.     The  enter- 
h  their  railroad 
fnot  only  to  con- 


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'JOI&M^ 


HON.  ELPRIDGE  G.  MERICK 


17 


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M'-^ 


trol  the  wheat  over  the  road  and  to  market  by 
vessels,  but  for  the  mill  at  Oswego.  During 
the  war,  or  at  the  close,  the  mill  was  making 
very  large  profits,  from  $1  to  $2  a  barrel,  but 
unfortunately  it  took  fire  and  burned  down, 
with  a  large  stock  of  grain  and  flour  on  hand. 
The  loss  was  pretty  well  protected  by  insurance, 
but  the  profit  which  they  would  have  made  if 
the  mill  had  not  burned  down,  could  not  have 
been  provided  for.  The  actual  loss  was 
nearly  $150,000. 

Perhaps  his  first  and  greatest  financial  loss 
was  through  the  failure  of  a  large  commission 
house  (Suydam,  Sage  &  Co.)  in  New  York,  in 
1850.  But  that  loss  brought  generous  and 
prompt  proffers  of  aid  from  business  men  in 
Watertown,  Kingston  and  Quebec,  which  were 
long  after  most  gratefully  remembered.  The 
great  financial  disasters  of  1857  and  1873  also 
brought  misfortune  to  him,  as  well  as  to  many 
others.  He  was  greatly  helped  in  all  these  re- 
verses by  the  confidence  that  his  creditors  had 
in  his  ability  and  strict  integrity,  steadily  re- 
fusing compromises  when  offered.  He  paid 
dollar  for  dollar,  though  often  at  great  sacri- 
fice of  property.  For  many  years  Mr.  Merick 
was  president  of  the  Sackets  Harbor  Bank, 
relinquishing  the  position  on  leaving  Jeffer- 
son county. 

For  many  years  he  found  Clayton  was  too 
much  at  one  side  for  the  prompt  and  success- 
ful management  and  oversight  of  his  varied 
interests.  He  was  strongly  attached  to  the 
people  of  Jefferson  county  and  the  beautiful 
St.  Lawrence,  and  it  was  with  many  regrets 
that  he  left  his  old  friends  and  pleasant  home, 
with  all  the  associations  of  youth  and  manhood, 
to  make  a  home,  in  1859,  at  the  more  central 
point,  Detroit.  Here  he  took  an  honored 
position  among  the  business  men  of  the  city, 
many  of  whom  sought  advice  from  him,  glad 
to  profit  by  his  large  experience.  In  addition 
to  other  business,  he  bought  an  interest  in  the 
Detroit  Dry  Dock  Company  for  the  firm  of 
Merick,  Esselstyn  &  Co.  John  Owen,  Gordon 
Campbell  and  Merick,  Fowler  &  Esselstyn 
each  owned  one-third  of  the  Dry  Dock  stock — 
the  total  stock  being  $300,000. 

Mr.  John  Fowler,  a  partner  of  the  firm  of 


Merick,  Fowler  &  Esselstyn,  died  in  May,  1879. 
The  surviving  partners  purchased  his  interest 
in  the  business,  and  continued  under  the  name 
of  Merick,  Esselstyn  &  Co. 

After  the  failure  of  1873,  Mr.  Merick  was 
too  old  a  man  to  again  do  business  with  his 
former  confidence  and  success. 

In  1829  Mr.  Merick  married  Miss  Jane  C. 
Fowler.  She  died  in  1881,  leaving  four  sur- 
viving children  —  all  of  whom  have  proven 
useful  and  honored  members  of  society. 

Mrs.  Cyrus  McCormick,  who  was  Mr.  Mer- 
ick's  niece,  was  the  daughter  of  Melzar  Fow- 
ler, born  at  Brownville,  N.  Y. ,  and  survives 
her  distinguished  husband,  who  was  that  C. 
H.  McCormick,  so  long  the  leader  in  manu- 
facturing reapers  for  the  harvest  field,  whose 
machines  have  gone  into  all  lands.  He  was 
the  one  to  introduce  that  inestimably  valuable 
machine  into  England,  as  is  so  well  spoken  of 
in  Haddock's  History. 

Mr.  Merick  was  very  early  interested  in  the 
temperance  movement.  It  had  been  the  cus- 
tom to  put  whisky  among  the  necessary  stores 
for  every  raft  and  vessel.  He  very  soon  real- 
ized the  injury  it  was  doing,  made  liquor  a 
contraband  article,  supplied  tea  and  coffee  in- 
stead, and  made  it  his  personal  duty  to  visit 
cabin  and  forecastle,  to  confiscate  and  throw 
overboard  any  spirits  smuggled  on  board. 

The  sailors  who  manned  his  vessels  came 
from  the  adjacent  farms  and  villages.  Young 
men,  beginning  as  cabin  boys,  or  before  the 
mast,  were  frequently  advanced  as  they  ,.  roved 
worthy  and  capable  to  be  mates,  captains  and 
shareholders,  and  all  looked  up  to  him  as  to  a 
personal  friend  and  father. 

One  who  had  sailed  for  him  thirty-five  years 
wrote:  "  The  accounts  for  these  years  aggre- 
gated more  than  half  a  million  of  dollars,  but 
never  an  error  to  the  value  of  a  cent  in  his  books, 
never  a  sour  look  or  unkind  word.  I  was 
always  treated  more  as  an  equal  than  as  a  ser- 
vant." Another  who  served  him  forty  years 
said  :  "  I  have  received  from  him  nothing  but 
kindness.  When  in  need  of  aid  or  counsel  his 
generous  heart  always  responded  to  my  wants. 
In  prosperity  and  adversity,  sunshine  and 
storm,  he  was  always  true  to  principle,  and 


■% 


i8 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


true  to  himself  as  a  man,  ever  following  the 
Golden  Rule." 

Mr.  Merick  had  no  political  aspirations,  be- 
yond wishing  to  do  the  best  possible  for  his 
own  township,  of  which  he  was  several  times 
supervisor.  He  was  a  strong  Whig,  and  gave 
money,  time  and  influence  to  promote  the  in- 
terests of  that  party.  Twice  he  was  nominated 
for  Congress,  and  ran  ahead  of  his  ticket ; 
once  both  parties  wished  to  unite  upon  him  as 
their  candidate,  but  his  business  interests 
would  not  permit  him  to  accept  the  nomina- 
tion. He  was  also  one  of  the  Electoral  Col- 
lege, voting  for  President  William  H.  Harrison. 

The  title  of  judge  was  given  him  when  he 
was  appointed  associate  judge  of  Jefferson 
county,  but  he  felt  that  it  rightfully  belonged 
only  to  a  man  of  legal  training  and  ability. 

The  Patriot  War  of  1837-38  caused  much 
trouble  and  anxiety  all  along  the  border,  and 
brought  together  many  of  the  best  men  of 
Northern  New  York  and  Canada  to  council 
together  and  take  such  measures  as  would  in- 
sure peace. 

One  of  the  Canadian  members  of  that  com- 
mittee of  arbitration  wrote  :  "  How  much  the 
high  character  and  the  confidence  inspired  by 
your  father  in  Canada,  assisted  in  allaying  the 
irritation  which  existed  on  both  sides  of  the 
line.  To  him  many  misguided  men  owe  their 
deliverance  from  extreme  peril.  I  well  re- 
member the  effect  upon  my  own  mind,  not  a 
little  exasperated  at  the  time,  by  his  explana- 
tions as  to  the  sincere,  but  mistaken  views 
which  induced  many  good  and  worthy  people 
to  engage  in  or  extend  aid  to  what  they  sup- 
pose to  be  a  movement  in  assisting  the  op- 
pressed." 

Mr.  Merick,  deploring  his  own  inability  to 
obtain  a  collegiate  education,  was  ready  to  aid 
young  men  with  such  aspirations.  The  suc- 
cess of  many  business  men  was  owing  to  the 
counsel  and  substantial  aid  he  gave.  Academ- 
ies, colleges,  churches,  public  and  private 
charities  were  cheerfully  aided  by  him  as  "  the 
Lord  prospe  ed  him." 

His  noble,  courtly  bearing,  his  unassuming 
manner,  his  thoughtfulness,  tenderness  and 
benevolence,   his    faithfulness  and    integrity 


make  a  rich  legacy  to  children  and  children's 
children. 

It  had  always  been  his  thought  that  a  busi- 
ness man  should  keep  at  work  till  the  end  of 
life.  In  the  winter  of  1887-88,  realizing  from 
his  advanced  years  that  his  strength  was  fast 
failing,  he  decided  to  sell  the  remaining  vessels 
of  the  fleet.  Friday,  February  10,  1888,  the 
contract  was  made  for  selling  the  last  one. 
Saturday,  February  11,  the  papers  were  to  be 
signed.  He  tarried  a  little  in  the  morning, 
perhaps  not  quite  as  well  as  usual,  after  a 
somewhat  restless  night  —  his  mind  no  doubt 
busy  with  reminiscences  of  the  past,  and  sad- 
ened  by  the  change  of  affairs.  The  mail 
brought  news  from  absent  loved  ones.  While 
talking  with  his  daughter,  sitting  beside  him, 
of  the  good  tidings  received,  his  head  dropped, 
one  sigh  was  given,  "the  silver  co'-d  was 
loosed,"  "the  golden  bowl  was  broken,"-— he 
had  gone  from  his  work  to  his  rest  and  his 
reward, 

Thus  passed  away,  after  an  honorable  and 
a  useful  life,  one  of  the  most  widely-known 
and  justly-honored  of  the  river  men,  who 
came  to  man's  estate  in  Jefferson  county,  and 
spent  the  flower  of  his  life  there.  His  death 
occurred  at  Detroit,  February  ti,  1888,  in  his 
86th  year. 

Mr.  Merick  and  wife  reared  a  family  of 
four  children.     They  were  : 

Maria  D.,  wife  of  Isaac  L.  Lyon,  a  native 
of  Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.  They  reside  at  Red- 
lands,  Cal. 

Ermina  G.  Merick,  wife  of  E.  J.  Carring- 
ton,  of  Fulton,  N.  Y.  They  reside  at  Detroit, 
Mich. 

Melzar  F.  Merick,  died  March  28,  1893. 
His  wife  was  Mary  Whittlesey,  of  Danbury, 
Conn. 

Je ANNIE  C,  wife  of  G.  N.  Chaffee,  of  De- 
troit,  Mich.,  which  is  their  home. 

Mr.  Merick  was  in  many  respects  a  pecu- 
liarly able  man,  and  should  be  spoken  of 
apart  from  his  many  business  enterprises. 
Judgment  was  the  leading  quality  of  his  mind. 
To  strangt  rs  he  appeared  reserved,  the  result 
of  his  native  modesty,  and  not  the  outgrowth 
of  any  feeling  of  superiority  or  of  self-elation. 


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GOVERNOR  ROSIVELL   PETTIBONE  FLOWER. 


»9 


His  soul  was  too  great  and  his  judgment  too 
solid  for  any  such  folly  as  that.  He  was  emi- 
nently der.iocratic,  simple  in  his  manners  and 
his  tastes,  as  have  been  all  the  really  great 
men  the  writer  has  encountered.  Mr.  Merick 
was  not  a  sharer  in  the  command  of  armies, 
nor  is  it  probable  that  he  ever  knew  what  it 
was  to  be  thrilled  by  a  bugle  call  or  beat  of 
drum ;  yet  he  intensely  appreciated  the 
struggle  endured  by  the  Union  armies,  whose 
perils  he  would  surely  have  shared  had  he 
been  of  suitable  age.  He  was  a  patriot  in  the 
highest  sense  of  that  term.  Amidst  all  the 
duties  of  his  exacting  business,  he  was  a  con- 
sistent Christian  ;  the  traveling  Methodist 
minister  always  found  a  welcome  at  his  fire- 
side, both  from  him  and  his  amiable  wife,  a 
fact  the  writer  has  heard  the  late  Rev.  Gard- 
ner Baker  speak  of  with  grateful  tears.  Mr. 
Merick's  unostentatious  and  democratic  ways 
made  him  life-long  friends,  for  his  manner  in- 


vited confidence,  and  confidence  in  him  meant 
safety.  Children  and  animals  never  shunned 
his  society,  for  they  intuitively  perceived  his 
gentleness  under  his  greatness.  Viewed  in 
any  light,  as  a  man  of  affairs,  the  possessor 
and  dispenser  of  large  wealth,  as  the  unosten- 
tatious but  ever  vigilant  citizen  of  a  free 
country,  or  as  the  sincere  Christian,  he  pos- 
sessed so  many  excellencies  that  he  fell  but 
little  short  of  earthly  perfection.  He  left  a 
memory  in  Jefferson  county  that  remains 
peculiarly  sweet,  and  entirely  untarnished. 
And  it  is  fitting  to  hold  up  such  a  character  to 
the  admiration  of  the  youth  who  come  after 
him,  as  an  evidence  that  the  age  in  which  he 
lived  was  not  altogether  one  of  greed  and 
money-getting,  but  was  adorned  now  and  then 
by  souls  as  grand  as  can  be  found  in  the  re- 
cords of  any  people.  And  so  Eldridge  G. 
Merick  passes  into  history  as  one  of  the  very 
ablest  and  best  of  his  time. 


GOVERNOR    ROSWELL    PETTIBONE    FLOWER. 

[See  Portrait.] 


We  scarcely  need  apologize  for  introducing 
into  this  River  book  the  portrait  and  bio- 
graphical sketch  of  Governor  Flower.  His 
childhood  was  spent  only  twelve  miles  from 
Alexandria  Bay,  a  spot  he  often  visited  in  his 
youth,  and  he  has  grown  to  be  one  of  whom 
his  fellow  citizens,  and  more  especially  those 
who  knew  him  in  early  life,  are  very  proud. 
His  career  is  an  incentive  to  every  boy  and 
young  man  in  the  State. 

He  was  born  August  7,  1835,  at  Theresa, 
Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.  His  father,  Nathan 
Monroe  Flower,  whose  ancestors  came  to 
Connecticut  in  1696  and  settled  in  New  Hart- 
ford, was  born  at  Oak  Hill,  Greene  county,  in 
this  State.  Nathan  Flower  learned  the  wool- 
carding  and  cloth-dressing  trade  in  his  father's 
mill  at  Oak  Hill,  and  when  he  became  of  age 
established  business  for  himself  in  Coopefs- 
town,  Otsego  county.  At  Cherry  Valley,  in 
the  same  county,  he  married  Mary  Ann  Boyle, 
and  soon  after  moved  to  the  northern  wilder- 
ness and  established  a  wool-carding  and  cloth- 
making  business  at  Theresa.  Nine  children 
were  born  to  them,  seven  sons  and  two  daugh- 
ters, of  whom  Roswell  Pettibone  Flower  was 
the  fourth  son  and  the  sixth  child.  Their 
father  died  when  Roswell  was  only  eight  years 


old.  Their  mother  conducted  the  business 
for  a  couple  of  years,  and  young  Roswell  was 
put  to  work  at  picking  wool  eight  hours  off 
and  eight  hours  on  daily,  during  the  summer 
season,  for  a  couple  of  months,  ar.a  the  rest 
of  the  time  he  was  sent  to  school.  The  family 
had  a  farm  of  30  acres  near  the  village,  and 
and  another  one  of  some  200  acres  eight  miles 
out.  The  children  worked  on  these  farms, 
chopping  wood  for  the  house  in  the  village, 
and  raising  hay  and  oats,  wheat  and  potatoes. 
There  was  nothing  on  the  farm  that  young 
Roswell  could  not  do.  Until  he  was  fourteen 
years  of  age  he  was  occupied  at  school,  and 
night  and  morning  did  what  work  he  could  to 
help  support  the  family.  His  brothers  being 
older  than  he,  it  was  not  Roswell's  luck  to 
have  a  new  suit  of  clothes  until  he  was  able 
to  earn  the  money  himself.  His  mother  would 
cut  down  the  clothes  of  the  older  boys  to  fit 
him,  and  stories  are  told,  even  in  these  days, 
at  Theresa,  of  the  anguish  of  mind  which 
young  Flower  suffered  over  this  matter  of 
hand-me-downs.  His  sister  Caroline  married 
Silas  L.  George,  a  merchant  of  Theresa,  and 
Roswell  was  employed  by  him  for  $5  a  month 
and  board.  In  the  winter  he  attended  the 
Theresa    High    School,   conducted    by   Mr. 


T 


20 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


Goodenough,  and  worked  for  his  board  until 
he  was  sixteen  years  of  age,  when  he  gradu- 
ated. To  get  his  spending  money  Roswell 
did  odd  jobs  of  sawing  wood  and  carrying  it 
upstairs  for  the  lawyers  of  the  village.  Twenty- 
five  cents  was  a  good  deal  of  money  in  those 
days,  and  rather  than  ask  his  mother  for  the 
money,  he  preferred  to  saw  half  a  cord  of 
wood  and  carry  it  upstairs.  Farm  hands 
were  scarce  in  haying  time,  and  being  a  strong 
and  active  young  man,  he  could  command 
good  wages,  and  frequently  left  the  little 
country  store  for  two  or  three  weeks  to  help 
out  some  farmer  who  was  anxious  to  get  his 
crops  in.  He  also  worked  in  a  brick  yard, 
driving  a  yoke  of  stags  around  the  vat  to  tread 
out  the  clay,  for  which  he  received  the  munifi- 
cent sum  of  $1.50  a  week,  not  counting  Sundays. 

As  A  Village  Schoolmaster. 

After  he  graduated  from  the  High  School 
he  found  an  opportunity  to  teach  in  a  little 
school  a  mile  from  town.  The  scholars  in 
those  days  often  desired  to  have  a  bout  with 
their  master  before  they  would  become  tract- 
able. Mr.  Flower  taught  out  the  balance  of 
the  term  in  the  red  school  house  below  the 
village  and  "  boarded  around "  among  the 
parents  of  his  scholars  a  week  or  less  in  a 
place,  in  the  regular  old  New  England  fashion, 
which  still  obtains  in  the  way-back  districts  of 
Northern  New  York. 

His  first  day  in  school,  during  the  noon 
intermission,  the  biggest  boy  came  to  him  for 
a  "square-hold"  wrestle.  Mr.  Flower  ac- 
cepted the  challenge  and  easily  threw  the  lad. 
After  he  had  thrown  the  larger  boys  he  found 
them  all,  with  one  exception,  ready  to  recog- 
nize his  authority.  One  day  in  the  spelling 
class  this  boy,  who  was  about  twenty-one  years 
old,  declined  to  pronounce  his  syllables,  but 
after  a  tussle  Roswell  succeeded  in  making 
him  pronounce  them  correctly.  He  then  gave 
notice  that  he  would  hold  a  spelling  school 
that  evening,  and  stated  that  he  desired  only 
those  of  the  scholars  to  come  who  would  be 
willing  to  do  their  best.  During  the  inter- 
mission this  young  man  said  he  was  coming 
to  school  that  evening,  but  that  he  would  not 
spell.  Roswell  was  boarding  at  the  time  with 
the  family  of  Edward  Cooper,  with  whom 
lived  a  young  man  of  twenty-two  named  James 
Casey,  now  a  merchant  at  Theresa.  The 
young  teacher  talked  over  the  expected  trouble 
and  arranged  that  Casey  should  choose  for  one 
side  of  the  school,  and  if  this  obstreperous 
young  fellow  should  make  his  appearance 
Casey  should  elect  him  to  his  side,  and  if  he 
made  any  fuss  in  spelling,  thr.  "^wo  should  join 


forces  and  put  him  out.  The  evening  school 
had  not  been  -opened  more  than  ten  minutes 
before  this  young  man  came  in  and  sat  down 
behind  one  of  the  old-fashioned  desk.,.  He 
was  immediately  chosen,  but  said  he  would 
not  spell.  Then  young  Flower  told  him  that 
he  must  spell  or  leave  the  school.    He  replied 

that  he  would  be if  he  would  spell,  and  that 

he  would  be if  he  would  leave  the  school. 

Mr.  Flower  insisted,  which  only  called  forth 
a  repetition  of  the  offensive  remark.  The 
schoolmaster  then  called  upon  anybody  pres- 
ent who  desired  to  resent  the  insult  to  the 
school  and  the  teacher  to  assist  him  in 
putting  the  offender  out  df  doors;  where- 
upon young  Casey  rose  up,  and  Roswell, 
grabbing  the  young  man  by  his  shoulder  and 
his  assistant  by  his  feet,  he  was  speedily 
ejected.  But  he  was  not  conquered.  He 
went  over  to  the  hotel  a  few  rods  distant  and 
persuaded  one  of  the  trustees  and  a  big  chap 
by  the  name  of  William  Wafful  to  come  over 
and  whip  the  teacher.  Nothing  daunted, 
Roswell  stated  the  case  to  his  belligerent 
visitors  and  then  said  to  the  young  man: 
"  Now,  sir,  you  must  either  spell  or  leave  this 
school  again."  This  conquered  the  youthful 
Samson,  and  he  spelled  without  further 
trouble.  After  school  was  out  the  colossal 
Mr.  Wafful  remarked  that  if  this  young  man 
had  not  spelled  then  he  would  have  whipped 
him  himself. 

When  he  was  in  his  eighteenth  year  Mr. 
Flower  had  an  offer  to  go  to  Philadelphia 
(Jefferson  county)  as  a  clerk  in  a  general 
merchandise  store.  His  employer  was  a  Mr. 
Woodward,  who  failed  two  months  afterward, 
and  the  young  man,  thrown  out  of  employ- 
ment, was  forced  to  return  to  Theresa.  That 
spring  and  summer  he  did  work  on  his  moth- 
er's farm,  and  earned  a  ton  of  hay  by  working 
nine  days  and  a  half  in  the  field,  mowi  ig 
grass  and  "  keeping  up  his  end  "  with  eleven 
men  in  mowing. 

During  his  boyhood  he  always  went  bare- 
foot in  the  summer  months,  and  he  once  re- 
marked in  a  speech,  while  running  against 
William  Waldorf  Astor  for  Congress,  that 
until  he  was  fifteen  years  old  he  did  not  feel 
at  home  in  the  summer  time  unless  he  had  a 
stone  bruise  or  two  on  his  feet,  and  that  he 
had  warmed  his  feet  many  a  morning  when 
driving  up  the  cows  in  the  crisp  autumn 
weather  on  a  spot  where  a  cow  had  lain  the 
night  before. 

Six  Years  of  Early  Manhood. 

In  August,  1853,  Mr.  Flower  had  an  offer  to 
go  into  the  hardware  store  of  Howell  Cooper 


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GOVERNOR  ROSIVELL  PETTI  BONE  FLOWER. 


21 


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&  Co.,  at  Watertown.  After  remaining  there 
a  month  he  had  another  offer  which  was  more 
to  his  liking  and  which  he  accepted.  It  was 
to  become  deputy  postmaster  at  Watertown  at 
1^50  a  month  and  board.  He  occupied  this 
position  under  Postmaster  William  H.  Sigour- 
ncy  for  six  years.  The  first  ^50  he  saved  he 
invested  in  a  gold  watch,  which  he  sold  a  few 
months  later  to  a  young  physician  for  §53,  and 
took  his  note  for  it.  Mr.  Flower  still  has  that 
note.  Mr.  Flower  managed  to  save  some 
money  out  of  his  wages,  and  at  the  end  of  his 
term  in  office  had  accumulated  about  $1,000, 
with  which  he  purchased  the  interest  of  Mr. 
Sigourney  in  a  jewelry  business,  the  firm  name 
being  Hitchcock  &  Flower,  at  i  Court  street, 
Watertown.  His  aptitude  for  business  en- 
abled him  to  advance  the  interests  of  the  firm, 
and  in  a  couple  of  years  he  bought  out  his 
partner  and  continued  alone  in  the  business 
until  1869. 

Mr.  Flower  was  married  on  December  26, 
1859,  to  Sarah  M.  Woodruff,  a  daughter  of 
Norris  M.  Woodruff,  of  Watertown.  Three 
children  were  born  to  tliem,  of  whom  only 
one  is  living,  Emma  Gertrude.  She  was 
married  to  John  B.  Taylor,  of  Watertown, 
January  2,  1890.  While  in  the  Watertown 
post  office  Mr.  Flower's  spare  time  was  taken 
up,  not  in  social  entertainments,  because  he 
had  no  money  to  enter  such  society,  but  in 
reading  whatever  he  thought  might  be  useful 
to  him  in  the  future.  He  made  himself 
thoroughly  familiar  with  the  "  Federalist  "  and 
kindred  works,  and  having  an  idea  of  some 
day  becoming  a  lawyer,  he  got  a  little  knowl- 
edge of  Blackstone  and  Kent;  but  his  natural 
bent  was  for  business,  and  he  never  attempted 
the  law. 

Business  in  New  York. 

In  1869  Henry  Keep,  the  well-known  capi- 
talist, who  had  married  Miss  Emma  Wood- 
ruff, a  sister  of  Mrs.  Flower,  was  on  his  death- 
bed. Two  or  three  weeks  before  he  died  he 
sent  for  Mr.  Flower  to  come  to  New  York, 
and  during  his  sickness  gave  him  a  pretty 
good  idea  of  the  character  of  the  men  with 
whom  he  had  been  surrounded  in  the  busi- 
ness world.  Mr.  Keep  had  been  president  of 
the  New  York  Central  and  treasurer  of  the 
Michigan  Central  and  Lake  Shore,  and  was 
president  at  the  time  of  the  Chicago  and 
Northwestern  railroad.  He  knew  it  would 
take  a  man  of  good  common  sense  and  quick 
perception  to  aid  his  wife  in  the  management 
of  his  large  property  after  his  death,  and  in 
Mr.  Flower  he  thought  he  recognized  those 
qualities.     In  answer  to  a  question  by  Mr. 


Flower,  in  order  to  get  his  opinion  of  Daniel 
Drew,  as  to  whether  Drew  was  an  honest  man, 
Mr.  Keep,  who  was  very  reticent,  did  not 
reply  for  some  ten  minutes,  and  then  said : 
"  He  is  as  honest  a  man  as  there  is  in  the  State 
of  New  York,  but  for  fear  that  somebody  else 
will  cheat,  he  will  always  begin  first."  Im- 
mediately after  Mr.  Keep's  death  Mr.  Flower'' 
removed  to  New  York  and  took  charge  of  his 
late  brother-in-law's  estate,  the  value  of  which 
has  more  thnn  doubled  under  his  management. 
It  was  then  worth  $1,000,000,  and  now  under 
Mr.  Flower's  management  it  has  expanded  to 
$4,000,000.  The  properties  in  which  the 
estate  was  invested  caused  Mr.  Flower  to  be  a 
frequent  visitor  to  the  West,  and  since  1870 
he  has  made  extended  trips  all  over  the  United 
States,  and  has  a  personal  knowledge  of  the 
possibilities  and  natural  resources  of  almost 
every  section  of  the  country.  Governor 
Flower's  fortune,  which  is  estimated  in  the 
millions,  has  not  been  made  by  speculation  in 
AVall  street,  but  by  the  shrewd  purchasing  of 
properties,  which,  by  careful  and  prudent 
management,  have  developed  and  proved  val- 
uable investments. 

His  Career  in  Wall  Street. 

In  1872  Mr.  Flower  was  at  death's  door  for 
several  weeks,  but  after  four  or  five  months' 
sickness  he  finally  recovered.  His  physicians 
then  advised  him  to  take  all  the  outdoor  ex- 
ercise possible.  At  this  time  the  brokerage 
and  banking  firm  of  Benedict,  Flower  &  Co., 
was  dissolved,  and  Mr.  Flower  gave  his  entire 
attention  to  the  management  of  his  sister-in- 
law's  estate  and  other  estates  which  had  been 
placed  in  his  care.  He  found  a  New  York 
office  necessary,  and  so  established  himself  at 
52  Broadway.  His  younger  brother,  Anson 
R.  Flower,  was  brought  to  New  York  from 
Watertown  in  order  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  business,  that  he  might  take  charge  of  it  in 
Mr.  Flower's  absence ;  but,  strange  to  say,  the 
more  the  latter  tried  to  get  out  of  business 
the  more  he  got  into  it,  and  the  firm  of  R.  P. 
Flower  &  Co.  found  itself  doing  a  large  com- 
mission trade  without  any  attempt  having 
been  made  to  push  it  — so  large,  in  fact,  that 
another  brother,  John  D.  Flower,  and  a  nep- 
hew, Frederick  S.  Flower,  were  taken  into  the 
firm,  and  not  until  1890  did  Mr.  Flower  re-i 
linquish  his  interest  in  the  concern  and  become 
a  special  partner.  But  in  the  meantime  he 
had  managed  to  get  the  "  out-of-door  "  exer- 
cise which  the  doctors  had  suggested  through 
the  State  sportsman's  clubs.  In  1877  Mr. 
Flower  attended  the  convention  of  these  clubs 
at  Syracuse  and  won  a  prize,  consisting  of  a 


>  I'. 


23 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


corduroy  hunting  suit,  over  a  field  of  113 
entries.  Thirty-two  of  them  had  tied  at 
twenty-one  yards'  rise,  and  they  had  to  go 
back  to  the  twenty-five  yard  score.  Then  all 
that  were  left  had  to  go  back  to  thirty-one 
yards  and  shoot  until  somebody  dropped  out. 
Mr.  Flower  and  ex-Attorney-General  Tabor 
were  the  last  competitors  in  the  contest,  and 
Mr.  Flower  finally  won  the  clothes  and  still 
wears  them  on  the  hunting  expeditions  which 
he  frequently  takes  after  woodcock,  duck  and 
partridge. 

Always  Active  in  Politics. 

In  politics  Mr.  Flower  has  always  been  a 
Democrat.  He  cast  his  first  vote  for  Buch- 
anan, and  has  been  a  constant  and  active 
worker  for  his  party.  He  was  chairman  of 
the  county  committee  for  several  years  and 
helped  to  start  the  nucleus  of  an  organization 
which  has  been  known  throughout  the  State 
as  one  of  the  best  equipped  political  organi- 
zations within  its  borders.  Mr.  Flower  was 
an  active  Mason  in  his  younger  days,  being  at 
one  time  high  priest  of  the  Watertown  chap- 
ter. One  day,  going  down  to  the  grand 
chapter,  at  Albany,  he  met  on  the  cars  Samuel 
J.  Tilden  and  his  secretary,  John  D.  Van 
Buren.  Mr.  Tilden  asked  him  what  he 
thought  about  the  State,  and  Flower  replied 
that  he  did  not  believe  Mr,  Tilden  would  the 
next  year  be  chairman  of  the  State  Committee 
for  the  reason  that  he  did  not  seem  to  recog- 
nize the  fact  that  a  man  under  fifty  years  of  age 
has  any  influence  in  politics.  He  told  Mr. 
Tilden  that  it  was  the  young  men  who  would 
control  the  party,  and  that  he  must  extend  his 
acquaintance  among  them  or  be  prepared  to 
step  out.  Mr.  Tilden  replied  that  he  would 
like  to  have  the  young  men  with  him,  but  that 
he  had  no  opportunity  of  coming  in  touch 
with  them  :  that  his  friends  didn't  seem  to 
think  it  was  worth  while.  Mr.  Flower  then 
told  Tilden  that  Jefferson  county  had  sent  to 
Colonel  Van  Buren  the  year  before  the  best 
scheme  for  organization  of  a  party  that  had 
up  to  that  time  made  its  appearance,  and  that 
if  he  would  organize  the  party  throughout  the 
State  on  the  basis  of  recognizing  the  merit  of 
young  and  active  workers,  instead  of  the  "  has 
beens,"  he  would  be  sure  to  carry  the  State  at 
all  times,  and  might  continue  at  the  head  of 
the  organization  as  long  as  he  saw  fit.  Van 
Buren  confirmed  this  opinion.  About  a  month 
later  Hon.  Allen  C.  Beach,  of  Watertown,  re- 
ceived a  telegram  from  Mr.  Tilden,  asking 
him  to  come  to  his  house  and  spend  two  or 
three  weeks,  as  he  wanted  to  extend  the  sug- 
gested organization  throughout  the  State.     It 


was  thus  that  the  famous  "  Tilden  machine  " 
was  started.  It  was  Flower's  suggestion  to 
organize  it  and  Tilden's  perseverance  which 
extended  it.  In  1877  Flower  was  Chairman 
of  the  Democratic  Executive  Committee  when 
the  party  won  the  campaign,  though  there  was 
a  bolt  against  the  ticket, 

A  Term  in  Congress. 

After  his  son's  death,  in  1881,  Mr.  Flower 
was  induced  to  run  for  Congress  in  the 
Eleventh  Congressional  District  against  Wil- 
liam Waldorf  Astor.  The  representative  of 
this  district  had  been  Levi  P.  Morton  until  he 
resigned  to  take  the  position  of  Minister  to 
France.  Mr.  Morton  had  been  elected  by 
over  4,000  majority.  In  that  campaign,  after 
Orlando  B.  Potter  had  declined  the  Demo- 
cratic nomination,  Mr.  Flower  accepted  it  on 
the  platform  that  he  would  not  purchase  a  vote 
to  secure  the  election,  and  on  that  he  made 
the  issue  and  was  elected  by  3,100  majority. 
In  the  Forty-seventh  Congress  he  was  ap- 
pointed a  member  of  the  Committee  on  Bank- 
ing, and  almost  immediately  took  a  prominent 
part  in  the  discussion  of  financial  questions. 
Mr.  Flower  recently  said  to  the  writer:  "When 
I  was  elected  to  Congress,  although  I  was 
pretty  thoroughly  conversant  with  practical 
banking  methods,  I  knew  nothing  of  the 
theories  of  finance,  but  I  soon  learned  that  if 
I  was  to  be  of  any  use  in  Congress  I  must  do 
a  little  reading,  and  with  the  aid  of  books 
from  the  Congressional  Library,  I  soon  pretty 
thoroughly  mastered  the  subject.  I  found  it 
much  the  most  interesting  subject  I  had  ever 
studied.  It  is  better  reading  than  the  best 
novel  that  ever  was  written."  During  his  first 
term  in  Congress  he  also  made  speeches  on  the 
Chinese  question,  on  the  River  and  Harbor 
bill,  and  a  notable  one  on  the  reduction  of 
taxes. 

A  Unique  Pocket  Companion. 

Mr.  Flower  would  hardly  be  called  a  good 
speaker,  but  he  was  called  on  frequently  in 
his  county  to  talk  from  the  platform,  particu- 
larly during  the  Seymour  and  Blair  campaign 
of  1868.  Endeavoring  to  fill  that  want  of 
many  public  speakers  —  the  possession  of  a 
copy  of  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States 
in  convenient  size  to  carry  in  his  pocket — he 
searched  the  book  stores  of  Watertown,  but 
wa.>  unable  to  find  one.  Happening  into  a 
little  corner  shoe-store  he  saw  tacked  to  the 
bench  of  a  grizzled  old  cobbler  a  little  primer 
containing  inside  the  Constitution  and  outside 
the  advertisement  of  a  fire  insurance  company. 
James  Muldoon,   the   shoemaker,   gave    Mr. 


GOVERNOR  RO SWELL  PETTI ISOXE  FLOWER. 


93 


Flower  the  book,  and  he  has  it  yet,  always 
carrying  it  in  his  pocket  for  easy  reference. 
In  1S76,  when  visiting  Chicago,  Mr.  Flower 
had  his  memorandum  book  stolen,  which  con- 
tained the  present  of  the  cobbler.  While  in 
Earope  some  months  later  he  received  a  note 
from  the  proprietor  of  the  Grand  Pacific 
Hotel,  saying  that  his  book  had  been  found  in 
a  lumber  yard,  and  would  be  returned  to  him. 
The  Constitution  turned  up  inside  in  perfect 
order,  and  in  1883,  when  making  a  speech  in 
Congress  on  giving  power  to  the  President  to 
veto  separate  items  in  the  Appropriation  bill, 
Mr.  Flower  produced  the  cobbler's  copy  of 
the  Constitution,  and,  considering  its  adven- 
tures and  the  value  a  pamphlet  copy  would  be 
to  many  persons,  as  it  had  been  to  him,  he 
asked  that  it,  together  with  the  substantial 
amendments,  be  printed  in  the  Record  to  ac- 
company his  remarks,  that  with  them,  it  might 
be  distributed  to  the  people.  Over  500,000 
copies  of  this  somewhat  unique  document 
were  circulated  by  himself  and  other  members 
of  Congress. 

AGuBERNATORiALfossiBiLiTY  AND  Already 
A  National  Leader. 

In  1882  there  was  a  general  demand  through- 
out the  State  for  his  nomination  to  the  ofifice 
of  Governor.  In  the  Democratic  convention 
Mr.  Flower  received  134  votes  against  the 
same  number  for  General  Slocum,  and  sixty- 
one  for  Grover  Cleveland,  of  Buffalo.  The 
strife  between  Tammany  and  the  County  De- 
mocracy was  so  great  at  that  time  that  it  was 
thought  better  politics  to  nominate  a  man  out- 
side of  the  city  of  New  York.  Consequently 
Mr.  Flower  made  way  for  Cleveland,  who  was 
declared  the  choice  of  the  convention.  In 
this  same  year,  1882,  Mr.  Flower  refused  are- 
nomination  for  Congress,  having  stated  in  his 
first  canvass  that  he  would  not  accept  a  second 
nomination  and  that  he  would  leave  the  dis- 
trict in  such  a  condition  after  one  term  that 
any  good  Democrat,  no  matter  how  shallow 
his  pocket,  might  be  nominated  and  elected 
in  it-  He  was  at  this  time  offered  the  unani- 
mous nomination  of  both  factions  of  his  party, 
and  was  assured  that  the  Republicans  would 
make  no  nomination  if  he  would  consent  to 
run,  but  he  preferred  to  carry  out  his  pledge 
to  the  people  when  he  ran  against  Mr.  Astor. 
Orlando  B.  Potter  was  nominated  and  elected 
in  his  place,  Mr.  Flower  taking  the  stump  for 
him.  Mr.  Flower  has  been  a  member  of  the 
State  Executive  Committee  every  year  since 
that  time,  and  has  given  valuable  aid  to  the 
Democratic  party  managers.  In  1885  he  at- 
tended the  Democratic  State  Convention  as  a 


looker-on;  not  as  a  candidate  for  office.  The 
convention  nominated  David  B.  Hill  for  Gov- 
ernor. Several  delegates  had  asked  Mr. 
F'lower  to  accept  the  nomination  for  Lieuten- 
ant-Governor, but  he  refused.  He  left  Sara- 
toga the  morning  before  the  convention  ad- 
journed, but  when  he  arrived  at  his  country 
home  in  Watertown,  he  found  that  he  had 
been  unanimously  nominated  for  Lieutenant- 
Governor.  He  immediately  declined  the 
honor,  stating  his  reasons  for  doing  so.  The 
State  Committee  was  tailed  together  and 
nominated  in  his  place  Colonel  Jones,  of 
Binghamton,  he  "  who  pays  the  freight." 

Mr.  Flower,  in  1882,  was  made  chairman 
of  the  Democratic  Congressional  Committee, 
and  ran  the  campaign  that  year  which  resulted 
in  a  majority  in  the  House  of  fifty  for  his 
party.  In  the  Presidential  campaign  of  1888 
Mr.  Flower  was  selected  as  one  of  the  four 
delegates-at-large  to  the  National  Democratic 
Convention  at  St.  Louis,  which  nominated  Mr. 
Cleveland  for  President,  and  was  chosen  chair- 
man of  the  delegation.  In  the  same  year, 
when  it  seemed  probable  that  the  two  Demo- 
cratic factions  in  the  Twelfth  district  might 
each  run  a  candidate  for  Congress,  they  united 
on  Mr.  Flower,  and  asked  him  to  accept  the 
nomination.  This  he  did,  with  some  hesita- 
tion, and  only  in  order  to  help  the  election 
of  the  Presidential  and  Gubernatorial  nomi- 


nees. 


Again  in  Congress. 


In  the  Fifty-first  Congress  Flower  was  ap- 
pointed a  member  of  the  House  Committee 
on  Ways  and  Means,  and  also  a  member  of 
the  Committee  on  the  World's  Fair.  His 
efforts  toward  securing  the  location  of  the  fair 
in  New  York  have  been  recognized  by  the 
city  and  State,  and  his  speech  on  that  subject 
contained  about  all  the  points  in  favor  of  New 
York  that  could  be  put  into  thirty  minutes. 

Mr.  Flower  once  remarked  to  the  writer 
that  his  success  in  Congress  was  chiefly  due  to 
the  fact  that  on  whatever  committee  he  was 
placed  he  tried  to  learn  as  much  about  his 
work  if  not  more  than  any  other  member  of 
the  committee.  On  the  Ways  and  Means 
Committee  in  the  Fifty-first  Congress,  by  the 
questions  he  asked  at  the  hearing  held  before 
that  committee,  he  showed  his  familiarity  with 
many  subjects,  and  with  distant  sections  of 
the  country  and  their  industries.  There  was 
no  just  claim  before  Congress  for  the  pension 
of  a  Union  soldier  that  he  did  not  chlampion, 
believing  that  if  a  soldier  received  a  pension 
to  which  he  was  not  entitled  the  government 
was  to  blame  and  not  the  soldier,  for  there  are 


24 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


in  each  Congresfsionnl  district  three  surgeons 
by  wlioni  the  soldier  is  examined  before  he  is 
allowed  a  pension.  Mr.  Flower  also  made  a 
strong  speech  in  the  l-'ifty-first  Congress  in 
favor  of  the  election  of  postmasters  by  the 
people,  and  offered  an  amendment  to  the  Con- 
stitution to  that  effect.  Because  of  his  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  West  and  its  needs  he  was 
enabled  to  make  in  Congress  a  speech  on  the 
irrigation  question,  which  attracted  a  great 
deal  of  attention,  and  which  was  made  the 
basis  of  the  Senate  Committee's  report  on  that 
subject. 

The  Canvass  of  1890. 

Mr.  Flower  was  chairman  of  the  Demo- 
cratic Congressional  Cam|)aign  Committee  in 
1890.  The  committee  had  very  small  means, 
but  his  organizing  jjowers  were  brought  into 
play  with  great  success.  The  campaign  was 
quietly  but  systematically  conducted.  Cam- 
paign documents  were  circulated  in  large 
numbers,  and  the  result  was  the  largest  Demo- 
cratic Congressional  majority  ever  obtained  in 
an  election  in  the  United  States.  Mr.  Flower 
created  the  impression  that  he  was  doing 
nothing,  even  counseling  some  of  the  leading 
newspapers  of  his  party  to  pitch  into  him  and 
accuse  him  of  inaction,  in  order  to  arouse  the 
Democratic  rank  and  file  to  the  necessity  for 
active  effort  on  their  part.  He  believed  that  a 
full  vote  of  his  party  meant  a  great  Democratic 
triumph,  and  the  outcome  justified  his  belief. 

Mr.  Flower  was  nominated  for  Governor  at 
the  Djmocratic  State  Convention  of  1891,  and 
was  elected  by  a  plurality  of  47,937  over 
Jacob  Sloat  Fassett. 

How  He  Spends  His  Money, 

Mr.  Flower  has  never  turned  his  back  on 
any  charitable  institution  that  he  could  con- 
sistently befriend,  as  the  people  of  the  State 
can  testify.  He  has  always  made  it  a  rule  to 
give  away  in  charity  a  certain  portion  of  his 
income  —  for  many  years  all  that  he  did  not 
need  for  his  own  living  expenses  —  believing 
that  when  a  man  had  wealth  he  should  dis- 
tribute it  while  he  is  alive  in  order  that  there 
be  no  contest  over  it  when  he  dies. 

Mr.  Flower's  parents  were  Presbyterians, 
and  on  a  visit  to  Theresa  a  number  of  years 
ago  he  found  that  the  church  which  he  had 
attended  as  a  small  boy  had  run  down  and  that 
the  building  itself  was  in  a  dilapidated  condi- 
tion. At  considerable  expense  he  had  the 
church  rebuilt,  and  it  is  now  a  beautiful  little 
structure  — a  fitting  memorial  to  Mr.  Flower's 
parents.  On  the  death  of  his  son,  Henry 
Keep  Flower,  in  i88f,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Flower 


gave  St.  Thomas  church,  in  New  York  city,  of 
which  Mr.  Flower  is  a  vestryman,  §50,000  to 
erect  on  Fifty-ninth  and  Sixtieth  streets  and 
Second  avenue  a  four-story  building  to  be 
known  as  St.  Thomas'  house,  to  be  used  for 
parish  work.  The  structure  has  rooms  orcu- 
l)ied  by  an  American  Sunday  school  of  500 
children,  a  German  Sunday  school,  and  a 
Chinese  Sunday  school.  On  the  lower  floor 
is  a  diet  kitchen  and  on  the  second  floor  an 
institution  to  teach  young  girls  how  to  sew 
and  mend.  The  next  floor  is  a  club  room 
where  the  boys  play  checkers  and  backgam- 
mon, and  on  the  ui)per  floor  is  found  a  library 
for  a  club  of  young  men.  All  these  institu- 
tions are  canied  on  by  the  charitably  disposed 
of  St.  'I'homas'  church.  On  the  inside  of  the 
building  on  the  wall  is  a  marble  slab,  upon 
which  is  incribed  :  "  Erected  to  God  by  Ros- 
well  P.  Flower  and  Sarah  M.  Flower,  in 
memory  of  tlieir  son,  Henry  Keep  Flower." 

Mr.  Flower's  brother,  Anson,  is  a  vestry- 
man in  Trinity  church  in  Watertown,  and  Mr. 
Flower  joined  him  in  building  a  $100,000  home 
for  that  parish.  The  homa?opathic  school  of 
physicians  in  New  York  city  were  erecting,  a 
few  years  ago,  a  college,  but  had  no  hospital 
in  which  to  teach  young  students  anatomy  and 
the  use  of  the  knife  in  practical  surgery.  Mr. 
Flower  erected  for  them,  at  the  corner  of 
Avenue  A  and  Sixty-third  street,  the  Flower 
FIos])ital,  which  supplies  this  need.  But  this 
by  no  means  completes  the  list  of  beneficiaries 
of  the  family.  Henry  Keep's  widow  has 
erected  at  a  cost  of  §100,000,  in  the  suburbs 
of  Watertown,  a  home  for  old  men  and  women 
called  "the  Henry  Keep  Home."  As  Mr. 
F"lower  truly  says:  "  What  better  use  could 
be  made  of  the  money  of  Henry  Keep,  whose 
father  died  in  the  poor  house,  than  to  erect, 
with  some  of  it,  a  home  for  aged  men  and 
women } "  Henry  Keep's  widow  has  also 
given  §100,000  for  the  Ophthalmic  HosjMtal 
at  Twenty-third  street  and  Fourth  avenue, 
Nsw  York. 

Th  '.  writer  has  known  Governor  Flower 
from  his  earliest  infancy,  having  at  one  time 
*Kf  .1  a  law  student  in  the  office  of  the  Gover- 
nor's father,  and  upon  terms  of  daily  intimacy 
with  that  estimable  family  of  children,  all  of 
whom  have  grown  up  into  useful  and  hon- 
ored members  of  society.  The  Governor's 
most  pronounced  trait  of  character  is  his 
ability  to  level  up  to  the  demands  of  every 
situation  in  which  he  has  been  placed.  When 
a  boy,  he  could  do  more  work  than  any  other 
boy  of  his  age  in  his  native  town,  and  'I'heresa 
v.-as  full  of  smart,  athletic  young  fellows. 
Roswell  was  in  "dead  earnest"  all  the   time, 


HON.    JAAfES  C.  SPENCER. 


n 


thorough  in  wliatevcr  he  undertouk,  of  a  push- 
ini;,  vigorous  nuinncr,  ever  on  the  alert,  and 
putting  the  best  foot  forward  every  time.  He 
was  always  hard  at  work,  but  when  he  had 
made  lialf-a-doUar  by  industry  he  was  liberal 
with  it  —  ready  to  divide  witli  his  brothers  or 
with  the  neigid)ors'  boys.  He  was  always  a 
"  trusty  "  boy  — his  word  would  go  as  far  when 
fifteen  years  of  age  as  any  fidl-grown  man  in 
Tlieresa.  He  had  a  self-possessed  and  honest 
way  that  gave  him  standing.  It  is  not  re- 
markable that  a  boy  with  -ich  traits  has  made 
a  successful,  trusty,  honest  man.  I  have  read 
his  speeches  in  Clongress  and  his  State  papers 
since  he  became  Governor.  Their  erudition 
and  ability,  and  their  matter-of-fact  way  of 
dealing  with  public  affairs  have  not  surprised 
me,  for  I  knew  the  boy  and  the  quality  of  the 
stock  from  which  he  sprang.  His  father  was 
a  nobleman  if  ever  there  was  one  in  Northern 
New  York,  and  his  mother  was  one  of  the 
most  faithful,  industrious  and  home-making 
women  of  her  day. 

It  is  easy  to  say,  and  easier  yet,  perhaps,  to 
suspect  that  what  we  print  here  may  be  largely 
due  to  the  desire  men  usually  feel  to  compli- 
ment and  ])erhaps  flatter  men  who  have  reached 
high  positions  or  acquired  great  wealth.  Gov- 
ernor Flower  is  too  well  known  in  his  native 
county  to  need  aught  but  honest  praise  from 
any  source.  Though  a  tireless  partisan  and 
an  uncompromising  Democrat,  he  has  never 
lost  a  friend  through  any  political  divergence 
of  view.  Honest  in  his  own  opinions  he  does 
not  hesitate  to  accord  those  who  differ  with  him 
the  same  honesty  of  purpose.  Springing  from 
the  middle  walks  of  life,  neither  poor  nor  rich, 
nor  yet  a  college  graduate,  but  graduated  from 
that  wonderful  developer  of  practical  common 
sense,  every-day  human  experience,   he  pos- 


sesses the  robustness  and  mental  health  which 
such  an  origin  might  be  expected  to  transmit. 
His  face  is  all  expression,  showing  an  exqui- 
sitely penetrating  and  mobile  intellect,  easily 
stirred  to  noble  emotions  and  brimming  over 
with  goodness.  He  is  a  delightful  companion, 
welcome  in  every  circle,  but  shines  brightest 
and  most  hopefully  to  those  who  share  his 
daily  life  and  "  know  him  best  of  all."  His 
life  has  been  a  blessing  to  so  many,  here  and 
elsewhere,  that  his  personal  pojiidarity  is  not 
so  remarkable  when  we  consider  the  founda- 
tion upon  which  it  is  mainly  built  —  an  un- 
selfish desire  to  do  good. 

The  VVatertown  Residence. 

Although  Mr.  Flower  has  for  some  20  years 
had  a  winter  home  in  Fifth  avenue.  New  York, 
he  still  spends  his  summers  in  Watertown, 
where,  upon  Arsenal  stieet,  he  occupies  a  cozy, 
pretty  house.  There  are  50  dwellings  in 
Watertown  surpassing  it  in  splendor  of  ap- 
pearance, more  modern,  with  a  greater  evi- 
dence of  the  luxuries  of  life,  but  none  having 
more  the  look  of  a  real  home.  The  house 
was  built  over  fifty  years  ago,  by  Norris  M. 
Woodruff,  Mrs.  Flower's  father,  and  has  the 
rambling,  comfortable  look  of  that  period  in 
architecture.  It  is  a  wooden  building  painted 
white  —  a  cleanly,  dazzling  white,  which 
seems  to  have  been  so  attractive  in  the  eyes  of 
the  last  generation  — and  it  has  the  usual  ac- 
companiment of  bright  green  blinds.  The 
house  stands  a  little  back  from  the  street, 
having  sufficient  space  for  some  handsome 
beds  of  flowers  and  a  perfectly  trimmed  green 
lawn,  while  back  of  the  house  one  sees  a  fine 
garden  and  clumps  of  handsome  trees.  Mr. 
Flower  transacts  his  business  in  a  comfortably- 
arranged  office  in  the  F"lower  Block. 


HON.  JAMES  C.  SPENCER, 


Ex-Judge  New  York  City  Superior  Court,  is  an- 
other of  the  men  who  have  done  much  to  em- 
bellish nature.  An  extended  account  of  his 
lovely  property,  "  Manhattan,"  may  be  found 
elsewhere.  He  is  a  native  of  Fort  Coving- 
ton, Franklin  county,  N.  Y.  His  father,  the 
late  Judge  James  B.  Spencer,  was  one  of  the 
early  settlers  of  Franklin  county,  and  was  a 
prominent  and  respected  citizen  and  recog- 
nized political  leader  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  State,  having  held  many  important  posi- 
tions, including  that  of  Judge  and  Representa- 


tive in  the  State  and  National  Legislatures. 
He  also  distinguished  himself  in  the  War  of 
1812,  participating  actively  in  the  important 
engageirents  of  that  contest,  including  the 
battle  of  Vlattsburg.  In  politics  he  was  a 
Democrat  of  the  Jeffersoi,,  Madison,  and 
Jackson  school.  He  was  the  personal  friend 
and  colleague  of  Silas  Wright,  and  was  recog- 
nized and  appreciated  by  that  great  man  and 
other  prominent  Democrats  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  as  an  intelligent  and  reliable  po- 
litical coadjutor,  in  the  struggles  of  more  than 


26 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVSR. 


a  quarter  of  a  century  to  secure  and  perpetu- 
ate Democratic  ascendancy  in  the  State.  He 
also  enjoyed  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  all 
his  fellow-citizens  who  knew  him,  without  re- 
gard to  political  differences.  He  died  in  the 
year  1848,  at  the  age  of  sixty-eight. 

This  branch  of  the  Spencer  family  and  that 
represe;ited  by  the  late  Chief  Justice  Ambrose 
Spencer,  and  his  son,  Honorable  John  C. 
Spencer,  were  kindred,  and  claim  a  common 
ancestry.  The  family  emigrated  to  New  York 
from  Connecticut,  their  original  place  of  set- 
tlement in  the  New  World,  springing  from  an 
English  ancestor,  William  Spencer,  who  came 
to  Cambridge,  Mass.,  before  or  early  in  the 
year  1631. 

It  appears  that  he  returned  to  or  visited 
England  afterwards,  for  he  married  his  wife, 
Alice,  in  that  country  about  the  year  1633. 
He  was  again  a  resident  and  a  prominent  man 
in  Cambridge  in  1634-5,  and  was  afterwards 
one  of  the  first  settlers  in  Hartford,  Conn. 
He  was  the  eldest  of  three  brothers,  all  of 
whom  were  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hart- 
ford. • 

The  family  of  the  present  Judge  Spencer, 
on  the  maternal  side,  were  purely  Irish.  His 
grandfather  emigrated  to  this  country  from 
Ireland  prior  to  the  American  Revolution,  and 
served  his  adopted  country  as  a  soldier  during 
the  War  of  Independence. 

Judge  Spencer,  before  he  had  fully  attained 
manhood,  was  thrown  upon  his  own  resources, 
and  acquired  his  education  and  profession 
mainly  by  his  own  exertions.  He  commenced 
the  practice  of  law  in  1850,  in  his  native 
county,  and  soon  became  popular  and  re- 
spected in  his  profession. 

In  1854,  he  removed  to .  Ogdensl  urg,  St. 
Lawrence  county,  and,  with  judge  W.lliam  C. 
Brown,  formed  the  legal  firm  of  Brown  & 
Spencer,  which  for  many  years  enjoyed  a  suc- 
cessful and  profitable  practice  in  the  courts  of 
Northern  New  York.     In   1857  he  was  ap- 


pointed United  States  District  Attorney   for 
the  Northern  District  of  New  York. 

The  performance  of  the  duties  of  that  office 
extended  his  professional  acquaintance  into 
nearly  every  county  of  the  State.  After  the 
expiration  of  his  term  of  office,  he  removed 
to  the  city  of  New  York  and  entered  upon  the 
practice  of  his  profession  in  that  city.  His 
energy  and  industry,  added  to  his  former  pro- 
fessional reputation  in  the  State,  soon  brought 
him  clients  and  a  very  successful  business. 

In  1867,  he  entered  into  partnership  with 
Hon.  Charles  A.  Rapallo  and  other  legal  gen- 
tlemen, under  the  firm  name  of  Rapallo  & 
Spencer,  which  became  familiar  to  the  public 
and  in  the  courts  as  associated  with  some  of 
the  most  important  causes  of  the  day,  includ- 
ing the  famous  Erie  controversy  and  other 
equally  important  litigations  connected  with 
railroad  and  steamship  companies.  The  ex- 
istence of  that  firm  terminated  with  the  elec- 
tion of  its  senior  members  to  the  bench  —  Mr. 
Rapallo  to  the  Court  of  Appeals,  and  Mr. 
Spencer  to  the  Superior  Court  of  New  York. 
He  was  a  candidate  at  a  later  day  for  reelec- 
tion as  judge,  but  was  defeated  by  a  small 
majority. 

On  his  retirement  from  the  bench  and  re- 
turn to  the  active  practice  of  his  profession  in 
New  York  city,  the  Judge  was  heartily  wel- 
comed, and  his  old  clients  renewed  their  al- 
legiance. As  years  have  worn  away  he  has 
become  more  attached  to  his  Manhattan  Island 
(see  description  elsewhere),  and  there  he  spends 
much  of  each  summer,  a  practice  dating  back 
for  twenty  years.  He  has  improved  and  beauti- 
fied every  thing  he  has  touched,  and  is  known 
as  a  liberal,  progressive  gentleman,  taking  a 
deep  and  healthy  interest  in  all  that  relates  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  improvement  of  its 
Islands.  Such  men  become,  in  a  sense,  pub- 
lic benefactors,  and  their  memory  should  not 
die  for  want  of  proper  recognition,  nor  their 
extt.nple  be  lost  upon  posterity. 


•^ 


•H': 
^ 

V 


torney   for 

that  office 
itance  into 

After  the 
le  removed 
d  upon  the 

city.  His 
ormer  pro- 
on  brought 
lusiness. 
irship  with 
r  legal  gen- 
Rapallo  & 
I  the  public 
th  some  of 
lay,  includ- 

and  other 
lected  with 
3.  The  ex- 
;h  the  elec- 
snch  —  Mr. 
Is,  and  Mr. 
New  York. 

for  reelec- 

by  a  small 

nch  and  re- 
rofession  in 
eartily  wel- 
ed  their  al- 
vvay  he  has 
ittan  Island 
re  he  spends 
dating  back 
and  beauti- 
id  is  known 
,n,  taking  a 
It  relates  to 
sment  of  its 
sense,  pub- 
should  not 
in,  nor  their 


CANADA'S  WEST  POINT. 


THE  ROYAL  MILITARY  COLLEGE  AT  KINGSTON. 

BY    J.    JONES    BELL,    M.    A. 


|ITH  £.  frontier  extending  across  a  conti- 
nent, bordering  on  a  nation  from  which 
several  hostile  raids  on  behalf  of  "Irish  inde- 
pendence "  have  taken  place,  and  with  a  half- 
breed  and  Indian  population  in  her  own  north- 
west, which  has  on  two  occasions  broken  out 
into  open  rebellion,  Canada  finds  it  necessary 
to  maintain  the  nucleus  of  a  military  force, 
which  shall  be  available  on  short  notice  to  de- 
fend her  f  i  ontier  or  to  put  down  rebellion.  She 
cannot  afford  to  maintain  a  standing  army,  but 
she  has  three  batteries  of  artillery  on  perma- 
nent service  and  a  cavalry  school,  four  infan- 
try schools  and  one  mounted-infantry  school, 
at  which  the  officers  and  non-commissioned 
officers  of  the  Volunteer  Militia  may  receive 
such  a  ^raining  as  will  fit  them  to  take  com- 
nirnd  and  give  instruction  to  the  volunteers, 
w'lO,  taken  from  the  field  or  workshop,  would 
otherwise  be  wholly  untrained  and  undisci- 
plined. 

But  while  her  volunteers  have  given  a  good 
account  of  themselves  whei.  occasic.i.  called 
them  into  active  service,  and  while  her  schools 
of  military  instruction  hive  been  the  means  of 
placing  good  officers  at  their  head,  it  was  felt 
that  something  more  was  needed  to  complete 
the  system,  and  accordingly  the  Parliament  of 
Canada,  in  1874,  passed  an  act  authorizing 
the  establishment  of  a  Royal  Military  College 
"for  the  purpose,"  as  the  act  states,  "of  im- 
parting a  complete  education  in  all  branches 
of  military  tactics,  fortification,  engineering 
and  general  scientific  knowledge  in  subjects 
connected  with  and  necissary  to  a  tho>-oagh 


knowledge  of  the  military  profession,  and  tor 
qualify'ng  officers  for  command  and  for  staff 
appointments." 

In  selecting  a  site  for  the  college  the  gov- 
ernment naturally  turned  its  eyes  to  three 
places  which  were  specially  adapted  for  the 
purpose  by  virtue  of  their  historical  associa- 
tions and  the  possession  of  extensive  fortifica- 
tions which  might  be  utilized  for  technical 
training.  These  were  Halifax,  Quebec  and 
Kingston.  The  latter  was  ultimately  chosen, 
for,  in  addition  to  being  the  most  central,  it 
possessed  certain  buildings  which  could  be 
utilized. 

After  the  conquest  of  Canada,  Kingston, 
the  site  of  Fort  Frontenac,  built  in  1673  by 
the  French  commander  after  whom  it  was 
named,  became  a  military  pest  of  great  im- 
portance. During  the  war  of  181 2  it  was  the 
British  naval  station  for  the  lakes.  A  dock- 
yard was  esitablished  on  a  low  promontoiy 
which  juts  out  between  the  Cataraqui  river 
and  a  small  inlet  of  the  St.  Lawrence  called 
Navy  Bay.  At  this  dockyard  Sir  James  Yeo 
built  his  fleet  for  Lake  Ontario.  After  the 
war  the  c'oc  .  ard  was  dismantled,  but  a  large 
three-story  .  ..  '^  ^  building  remained,  known  as 
the  Stone  Frigate,  which  had  been  occupied 
by  the  marines.  This,  with  a  large  black- 
smith shop  close  by,  was  utilized  for  the  col- 
lege.    [See  building  at  left  center  of  picture.] 

In  1876  the  first  classes  were  opened,  eigh- 
teen cadets  being  admitted.  The  staff  con- 
sisted of  a  commandant,  a  captain  and  three 
professors.    As  the  classes  grew,  more  accom- 


KB 


28 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


modation  was  required,  and  a  large  building, 
of  the  grey  limestone  for  which  Kingston  is 
famous,  was  added.  It  contains  offices,  read- 
ing and  mess  rooms,  library,  class  rooms, 
laboratory,  hospital  and  kitchen.  The  Stone 
Frigate  became  a  dormitory,  and  the  black- 
smith shop  was  converted  into  a  well-equipped 
gymnasium. 

The  main  building  faces  a  spacious  parade 
ground,  with  tennis  lawn  and  cricket  ground, 
and  opposite,  on  the  point,  is  Fort  Frederick, 
a  battery  which  guards  the  entrance  to  the 
harbor,  with  a  martello  tower  at  its  apex. 

Though  modeled  after  Woolwich,  the  col- 
lege is  intended  to  give  the  cadets  a  training 
which  will  fit  them  for  civil  as  weU  as  military 
life.  The  course,  which  is  four  years,  though 
provision  is  made  for  a  two  years'  course  in 
certain  subjects,  embraces  English,  French, 
drawing,  mathematics  and  mechanics,  engi- 
neering, surveying,  fortification,  architecture, 
astronomy,  chemistry,  geology,  mineralogy, 
physics,  electricity,  tactics  and  strategy,  sig- 
naling, military  law  and  administration,  mili- 
tary drill,  gymnastics,  fencing,  swimming  and 
riding.  A  few  of  these  subjects  are  volun- 
tary, but  most  of  them  are  obligatory.  A  rig- 
orous examination  has  to  be  passed  by  candi- 
dates for  entrance,  and  if  more  reach  the 
minimum  than  can  be  admitted  —  two  from 
each  of  the  twelve  military  districts  into 
which  Canada  is  divided  —  those  v<ho  make 
the  highest  number  of  marks  are  given  the 
preference.  The  age  of  admission  is  from 
fifteen  to  nineteen. 

The  military  staff  consists  of  a  command- 
ant, staff  adjutant  and  seven  professors  and 
instructors,  four  of  whom  are  graduates  of 
the  college,  and  two  of  the  latter  hold  com- 
missions in  the  regular  army.  Five  of  the 
staff  are  officers  of  the  active  list  of  the  im- 
perial army,  lent  to  the  college  for  a  five 
years'  term,  at  the  close  of  whifh  they  are 
retpiired  to  rejoin  their  command.  Two  are 
officers  of  the  retired  list.  There  is  a  civil 
staff  of  five,  holding  permanent  appoint- 
ments fiom  the  government.  The  presence 
of  imperial  officers  gives  a  standing  to  the 
institution    which    it    would    not    otherwise 


possess,  and  helps  the  proper  training  of 
those  of  the  cadets  who  are  destined  for  com- 
missions in  the  regular  army.  The  govern- 
ment was  fortunate  in  the  choice  of  the  first 
commandant,  Col.  Hewitt  of  the  Royal 
Engineers,  who,  in  addition  to  being  an 
accomplished  scholar  and  a  good  soldier, 
was  possessed  of  great  tact  and  energy,  and 
knew  Canada  from  former  service.  To  his 
skill  is  due  in  large  measure  the  success  which 
attended  the  college  from  its  very  outset,  and 
his  guiding  hand  directed  it  through  the  diffi- 
culties which  invariably  attend  the  early 
career  of  a  new  institution,  which,  in  this 
case,  was  to  a  large  extent  an  experiment. 
Having  completed  his  term  he  returned  in 
1886  to  Plymouth,  and  was  succeeded  by  Col. 
Oliver  of  the  Royal  Artillery,  who  had  been 
professor  of  surveying  and  astronomy  from 
tiie  beginning,  and  who  proved  himself  to  b 
a  worthy  successor.  The  present  head  of  the 
institution  is  Maj.-Gen.  Cameron,  late  of 
the  Royal  Artillery. 

Sir  Frederick  Middleton,  now  retired 
from  the  command  of  the  Canadian  forces, 
took  a  deep  interest,  officially  and  personally, 
in  the  college,  and  during  its  early  days 
helped  it  with  counsel  and  advice,  which  his 
experience  at  Sandhurst  well  qualified  him  to 
give.  The  general  officer  commanding  the 
militia  is  ex-officio  president  of  the  college. 

The  entrance  examinations  are  held  in 
June  at  the  headquarters  of  each  military 
district,  and  the  twenty-four  successful  can- 
didates report  themselves  at  the  opening 
of  the  term  the  following  September.  The 
first  week  is  spent  in  being  uniformed  and 
drilled  into  some  kind  of  form.  The  sec- 
ond week  the  old  cadets  return,  and  the  gar- 
rison settles  down  to  hard  work.  The  daily 
routine  embraces  drill  and  class  parades, 
study  and  other  duties.  From  reveille  to 
tattoo,  with  the  exception  of  two  hours —  from 
four  to  six,  during  which  he  is  free  —  the  cadet 
is  under  the  eye  of  authority  in  the  class  or 
lecture  room  or  on  parade.  There  is  none  of 
that  loitering  which  so  often  takes  place  at 
civil  colleges,  none  of  that  individual  liberty 
which  often  means  license.     The  cadet  has, 


CANADA'S  VVEST  POINT. 


29 


•aining  of 
'\  for  com- 
le  govern- 
>f  the  first 
the    Royal 

being  an 
>d  soldier, 
nergy,  and 
s.  To  his 
cess  which 
Dutset,  and 
h  the  diffi- 

the  early 
ch,  in  this 
xperiment. 
eturned  in 
ed  by  Coi,. 
)  had  been 
lomy  from 
nself  to  be 
lead  of  the 
)N,  laie   of 

ow  retired 
ian  forces, 
personally, 
arly    days 
which  his 
led  him  to 
inding  the 
college, 
held    in 
military 
ssful  can- 
opening 
ber.     The 
rmed  and 
The  sec- 
d  the  gor- 
The  daily 
parades, 
eveille    to 
rs  —  from 
the  cadet 
class  or 
is  none  of 
place  at 
ual  liberty 
adet  has, 


however,  two  half  holidays,  on  Wednesday  and 
Saturday,  when  he  may  go  out  on  pass  till 
eleven  o'clock,  or  with  extra  leave  till  one. 
Balls  and  parties  in  Kingston  are  timed  for 
these  days,  for  the  cadet,  with  his  gay  scarlet 
uniform,  is  an  important  factor  in  the  social 
world.  While  attending  the  college  the  cadets 
are  of  course  subject  to  the  Queen's  Regula- 
tions, the  Army  Act,  the  Militia  Act,  and  such 
other  rules  and  regulations  as  Her  Majesty's 
troops  are  subject  to. 

The  physical  training  is  excellent.  Sergt.- 
Major  Morgan,  of  the  Scots  Guards,  pre- 
sides over  this  department,  and  well  qualified 
he  is  to  fill  the  position.  Cadets  who  pass 
four  years  under  his  instruction  come  out 
with  deep  chests  and  erect  figures,  and  show 
what  a  thorough  physical  training  can  accom- 
plish. 

One  of  the  rewards  of  good  conduct  is  pro- 
motion to  the  rank  of  non-commissioned 
officer,  the  commandant  having  authority  to 
appoint  such  from  among  those  best  qualified. 
Proud  is  he  who  is  invested  with  the  chevrons, 
or  given  the  rig'.it  to  wear  the  sergeant's  sash. 

But  while  subject  to  strict  discipline  the 
cadets  have  opportunities  to  cultivate  their 
social  qualities.  One  of  the  events  of  the 
season  is  the  annual  sports,  which  take  place 
in  September.  The  campus  is  alive  with  car- 
riages and  pedestrians,  while  pretty  girls,  with 
their  chaperons,  form  the  center  of  groups 
e.^t^aped  in  animated  conversation,  or  watch- 
ing v-i.Ii  "nlerest  the  various  competitions  of 
Si-)eed  a:  d  skill.  Races,  jumping  :ompetitions 
ur.d  ^'>t<;',vilechases  follow  each  other  in  quick 
•^/utxi-isiun,  while  the  tug  of  war  between  the 
right  and  lert  wings  creates  almost  as  much 
interest  is  the  struggle  on  the  Isis  between 
the  collegi  eiphts.  The  games  over,  all  ad- 
journ to  the  gymnasium,  where  the  prizes, 
more  substantial  than  the  crown  of  ivy  at  the 
Olympic  games,  are  distributed  to  the  victors. 
Tea  and  aa  impromptu  dance  follow  in  the 
college  halls. 

A  ball  is  given  at  Christmas  by  the  staff  and 

■  ad  is,  and  a  yet  more  elaborate  entertainment 

imilar  character  at  the  close  of  the  college 

year  in  June.     On  closing  day  a  series  01  field 


manoeuvers  takes  place,  with  blowing  up  of 
imaginary  fortifications  and  fleets,  and  an  ex- 
hibition of  drill  and  bayonet  exercise,  after 
which  the  results  of  the  examinations  are  an- 
nounced, the  prizes  distributed,  and  the  ses- 
sion brought  to  a  termination.  The  governor- 
general,  the  minister  of  militia,  or  someone 
else  high  in  authority,  is  secured,  if  possible, 
to  distribute  the  prizes  and  make  a  speech. 
Four  commissions,  one  each  in  the  engineers, 
artillery,  cavalry  and  infantry  branches  of  the 
imperial  service,  are  available,  the  cadets  who 
stand  highest  on  the  honor  roll,  if  otherwise 
eligible,  being  entitled  to  them  in  the  order 
named.  The  first  two  are  eagerly  sought,  the 
third  generally  goes  a-begging,  as  tliere  are 
few  Canadian  youths  with  sufficient  means  to 
keep  up  a  position  in  such  an  expensive  branch 
of  the  service,  in  which  case  an  additional 
commission  in  the  infantry  is  generally  substi- 
tuted. All  who  have  taken  the  full  four  years' 
course,  and  qualified  in  all  the  obligatory  sub- 
jects, are  entitled  to  receive  a  diploma  of 
graduation,  those  who  have  specially  dis- 
tinguished themselves  also  receiving  honors. 
Those  who  leave  at  the  end  of  two  years,  and 
pass  the  subjects  required,  receive  a  certificate 
of  military  qualification  only. 

After  the  official  proceedings  are  over  on 
the  closing  day  the  cadets  have  a  parade  of 
their  own,  when  the  members  of  the  graduat- 
ing class  have  to  undergo  an  ordeal  of  hand- 
shaking and  leave-taking  in  true  college  form. 
A  valedictory  dinner  in  the  evening  follows, 
and  then  steamer  and  car  bear  the  cadets  o.f, 
and  the  halls  are  deserted   for   three   months. 

Some  of  the  passed  cadetb  of  the  college 
have  already  won  fame  for  themselves.  The 
name  of  Stairs,  who  accompanied  Stanley 
in  his  march  through  darkest  Africa,  is  well 
known  the  world  over.  Lieut.  Hewitt  served 
in  the  Soudan  and  bears  a  medal  won  on  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  and  I.ieut.  Dobell  has 
distinguished  himself  for  bravery  i..  Burmah. 

Occasion  has  no',  yet  arisen  to  call  into  full 
play  the  energies  of  the  rapidly-growing  mem- 
bers  of  the  graduates  of  the  Royal  Military 
College,  and  it  is  therefore  too  early  to  judge 
of  its  full  benefit  to  Canada.     But  the  opinion 


30 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


of  Lord  Lansdowne,  expressed  when  gover- 
nor-general, is  worth  quoting.  These  are  his 
words : 

"There  is  no  Canadian  institution  of  which  Can- 
ada should  be  prouder  or  which  will  do  better  ser- 
vice to  the  country  and  to  the  empire.  It  forms  an 
interesting  and  distinctive  feature  in  the  miiif  .cy 
system  of  the  Dominion.  That  system,  as  I  under- 
stand it,  is  based  upon  the  recognition  of  the  f.ict 
that  Canada  cannot  afibrd  in  her  own  interests,  or  in 
those  of  the  empire,  to  disregard  those  precautions 
which  every  civilized  community  takv-s  in  order  to 
ensure  its  own  safety  from  internal  commotion  or 
external  attack.  Upon  the  other  hand  it  is  a  system 
entirely  opposed  to  the  establishment  of  a  numerous 
standing  army  or  to  the  withdrawal  of  a  large  body 
of  citizens  from  the  peaceful  pursuits  which  are 
essential  to  the  progress  and  development  of  the 
country. 

"  That  being  so,  it  is  clear  that  ir  ~"se  of  a  national 
emergency  the  Dominion  would  ha  i  o  "r  r*.  largely 
to  the  spontaneous  efforts  of  its  ow,t  ;  ,  to  the 
expansion  of  its  existing  organization,  a  i  rapid 

development  of  the  resources  already  at  our  command. 

"But,  gentlemen,  it  is  needless  for  me  to  point 
out  to  you  that  there  is  one  thing  which  it  is  im- 
possible to  produce  on  the  spur  of  the  moment,  and 
1  at  is  a  body  of  trained  officers,  competent  to  take 
enlarge  of  new  levies  or  to  supervise  operations 
necessary  for  the  defense  of  the  national  territory, 
and  therefore  it  appears  to  me  that  we  cannot  over- 
rate the  value  of  an  institution  which  year  by  year  is 


turning  out  men  who  have  received  within  its  wall 
a  soldier's  education  in  the  best  sense  of  the  word 
and  who,  whatever  their  primary  destination,  will,  I 
do  not  doubt,  be  found  available  whenever  their  ser- 
vices are  required  by  the  country." 

The  cost  of  education  at  the  Military  Col- 
lege is  not  unreasonable.  Each  ca^et  is  re- 
quired to  deposit  annually  $200  to  cover  the 
cost  of  messing  and  quarters,  and  in  addition 
$200  the  first  year  and  $150  each  year  after- 
wards for  uniform,  books  and  instrrments. 
The  messman  receives  forty-six  cents  per  day 
for  each  cadet  present.  Extras  are  obtainable 
at  fixed  prices.  No  cadet  is  allowed  to  spend 
more  than  $2  per  month,  non-commissioned 
officers  more  than  !^4,  for  extras,  which  they 
pay  out  of  their  pocket  money. 

In  addition  to  the  full  couise  of  four  years 
and  the  military  course  of  two  years,  pro- 
vision has  been  made  at  the  college  for  officers 
of  the  militia,  who  require  higher  instruction 
than  the  military  schools  afford,  to  take  a 
three  months'  course,  one  class  being  in- 
structed each  year.  By  this  means  a  number 
of  officers  have  been  enabled  to  qualify  for 
important  positions  in  the  service. 

Taken  all  in  all,  Canada's  West  Point  has 
been  an  unqualified  success. 


mg 


AN    INTERNATIONAL   BOOK. 


IT  has  been  the  constant  endeavor  of  the 
editor  of  this  book  to  preserve  its  inter- 
national character,  not  forgetting  for  a  mo- 
ment that  Canada  has  a  much  more  extended 
proprietorship  over  the  St.  Lawrence  river 
than  has  the  United  States.  For  many  miles 
below  Montreal  the  river  runs  through  terri- 
tory exclusively  Canadian.  No  sincere  patriot 
would  desire  to  disturb,  by  word  or  deed,  the 
friendly  relations  existing  between  the  two 
great  English-speaking  peoples,  whose  united 
voice  could  control  any  matter  of  public  policy, 
either  in  America  or  in  the  east.     Canada  is 


a  vast  country,  larger  than  the  whole  United 
States  in  extent,  for  her  territory  extends  very 
far  north  and  joins  our  own  country  upon  the 
north  Pacific  ocean.  There  have  been  efforts 
in  the  past,  participated  in  by  hair-brained 
plotters,  to  disturb  the  fraternal  feeling  be- 
tween the  two  countries,  out  such  efforts  now 
find  but  slight  recognition  upon  either  side  of 
t'le  line.  The  press  of  both  countries  is 
friendly  to  fraternal  feelings,  and  the  public 
official  business  upon  the  whole  frontier,  from 
the  farthest  west  to  the  dividing  line  upon  the 
east,  is  conducted  without  serious  disturbance. 


[lin  its  wall 
)f  the  word 
tion,  will,  I 
cr  their  ser- 


litary  Col- 
ir\et  is  re- 
cover the 
n  addition 
year  after- 
stri'ments. 
Its  per  day 
obtainable 
d  to  spend 
imissioned 
I'hich  they 

four  years 
jrears,  pro- 
for  officers 
instruction 
to  take  a 
being  in- 
i  a  number 
ualify  for 

Point  has 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION. 


Historical  and  Otiierwise,  witli  some  Opinions  of  Traveliers. 


)le  United 

tends  very 

'  upon  the 

en  efforts 

ir-brained 

eeling  be- 

fforts  now 

ler  side  of 

untries   is 

he  public 

>tier,  from 

upon  the 

turbance. 


/^THE  route  of  the  St.  Lawrence  has  long 
^!  been  noted  for  the  variety  and  beauty  of 
its  scenery.  The  traveller  coming  up  from  the 
sea,  should  he  turn  aside  to  explore  the  chasm 
of  the  Saguenay,  would  witness  a  scene  of 
grandeur  scarcely  equaled  by  any  other  of  its 
kind  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Further  up, 
the  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  present  in  suc- 
cession displays  of  majestic  power  and  volume 
that  command  admiration,  and  on  finally  reach- 

.  ing  the  level  or  navigable  waters  above,  the 
approach  to  the  first  of  the  Great  Lakes  leads 
throught  a  labyrinth  of   islands,   which,  for 

;  variety  of  scenery  and  quiet  beauty,  have 
seldom  failed  to  awaken  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
traveller. 

To  this  group  of  islands,  with  their  histori- 
cal associations,  and  the  impressions  which 
their  scenery  has  inspired,  the  greater  part  of 
this  volume  is  devoted. 

In  arranging  the  materials  of  this  work,  the 

J    editor  has  been  engaged  in  no  small  degree  in 

i    presenting  the  thoughts  of  others  ;  but,  believ- 

4  ing  that  the  enjoyment  of  this  scenery  would 
f    be  enhanced  by  learning  the  manner  in  which 

i;    it  has  impressed  those  who  have  witnessed  it 
?    in  the  years   that  are  past,  he  has  sought  to 

5  present  as  wide  a  range  of  these  inipressions 
4  as  opportunities  allowed,  yet  not  failing  to 
t  present  much  that  is  original  and  never  before 
1   published. 

No  one  will  doubt  that  places  acquire  extra- 
ordinary interest  when  associated  with  great 
events,  or  even  when  linked  with  the  ideal 
'"cidents  of  poetry  and  romance.  In  allusion 
to  the  interest  which  these  associations  impart 


to  so  many  places  in  the  Old  World,  while 
there  are  comparatively  few  in  the  New,  the 
naturalist  Wilson,  in  whom  were  united  a  keen 
perception  of  the  beauties  of  nature  and  a 
highly  poetic  temperament,  in  the  opening 
part  of  his  Foresters,  says: 

"  Yet  Nature's  charms,  that  bloom  so  lovely  here, 

Unhailed  arrive,  unheeded  disappear; 

While  bare,  bleak  heaths,  and  brooks  of  half  a  mile 

Can  rouse  the  thousand  bards  of  Britain's  Isle. 

There,  scarce  a  stream  creeps  down  its  narrow  bed. 

There,  scarce  a  hillock  lifts  its  little  head, 

Or  humble  hamlet  peeps  their  glades  among. 

But  live;:  and  murmurs  in  immortal  s<  ng. 

Our  western  world,  with  all  its  matchless  floods, 

Our  vast  transparent  lakes  and  boundless  woods. 

Stamped  with  the  traits  of  majesty  sublime, 

Unhonored  weep  the  silent  lapse  of  time; 

Spread  their  wild  grandeur  to  the  unconscious  sky, 

In  sweetest  seasons  pass  unheeded  by; 

While  scarce  one  Muse  returns  the  song  they  gave. 

Or  seeks  to  snatch  their  glories  from  the  grave." 

In  some  of  the  prose  descriptions  that  fol- 
low, the  reader  will  find  a  poetry  of  sentiment 
and  imagery  of  thought  that  cannot  fail  to 
engage  the  attention.  Ir.  others,  there  are 
incidents  and  events  described  that  may  add 
new  interest  to  this  regioii,  especially  those 
relating  to  the  accounts  of  travel  in  the  olden 
time,  with  the  humble  accomodations  and  the 
discomforts  of  the  period,  that  afford  a  strik- 
ing contrast  with  the  exact  appointments  and 
the  ample  luxuries  of  the  present  day. 

Early  Indian  History. 

"In  the  beginning,"  so  far  as  history  or 
tradition  extends  back  into  the  past,  this  region 


u; 


't 


32 


A   SOLTENTN   OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


was  the  border-land  of  the  Algonquin  and  the 
Iroquois, —  the  former  dwelling  for  the  most 
part  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  while  the 
latter,  at  least  in  the  later  period,  had  their 
principal  homes  along  the  lakes  and  rivers  of 
Central  and  Western  New  York. 
I  The  early  historians  of  Canada  record  the 
fact  that  a  bloody  war  was  going  on  between 
the  Adirondacks  or  Algonquins  on  th  ,•  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  Iroquois  or  Five  Naiions 
of  the  region  now  included  in  Central  and 
Western  New  York,  when  the  country  was 
first  visited  by  the  French.  Champlain  took 
part  in  this  war  on  the  part  of  the  former,  and 
by  the  use  of  fire-arms,  hitherto  unknown  in 
Indian  warfare,  turned  the  tide  of  success  for 
a  time  in  favor  of  his  allies  —  but  gained 
thereby  the  lasting  hatred  of  their  enemies 
towards  the  French.  The  origin  of  this  war- 
fare is  traced  by  tradition  to  a  long  time 
before  the  first  appearance  >..'  the  white  man, 
and  although  not  measured  by  moons  or  sea- 
sons, it  still  appeared  to  be  consistent,  and 
probable, —  and  according  v.,  the  little  that 
could  be  gathered,  was  as  follows  : 

The  Algonquins  and  the  Iroquois  had  lived 
for  a  long  time  in  harmony,  the  former  being 
the  stronger,  and  chiefly  subsisting  by  the 
chase,  while  the  latter  were  more  inclined  to 
fishing  and  agriculture.  Now  and  then  the 
young  men  of  the  two  races  would  go  out  on 
their  hunting  expeditions  together,  but  in 
these  the  superiority  of  the  man  who  killed 
the  game,  over  him  who  skinned  and  dressed 
it,  was  always  insisted  upon,  and  when  the 
party  saw  an  opportunity,  it  was  the  business 
of  the  one  to  pursue  and  slay,  and  of  the 
other  to  stand  by  and  see  it  done. 

At  one  time,  half  a  dozen  of  each  class 
were  out  in  the  winter  on  a  hunting  excur- 
sion together.  They  saw  some  elk  and  imme- 
diately pursued  them,  but  the  Algonquins, 
presuming  on  their  superiority,  would  not 
suffer  the  young  Iroquois  to  take  part,  at  the 
same  time  giving  them  to  understand  that 
they  would  soon  have  business  enough  on 
hand  in  taking  care  of  the  game  they  were 
about  to  kill.  Three  days  were  spent  in  vain 
pursuit,  for  although  they  saw  there  was  an 


abundance  of  game,  ill-luck  followed  them  at 
every  step. 

At  length  the  Iroquois  offered  to  go  out 
themselves,  and  the  former,  not  doubting  but 
that  a  like  failure  would  soon  put  an  end  to 
their  unwelcome  comments  upon  their  own 
efforts,  consented.  The  tide  of  success  turned 
in  their  favor,  and  the  Iroquois  soon  returned 
with  an  abundance  of  game.  Mortified  at 
this  result,  the  jealous  Algonquins  the  next 
night  killed  all  of  their  successful  rivals  as 
they  lay  sleeping.  The  crime,  although  con- 
cealed and  denied,  was  soon  discovered,  and 
the  Iroquois  at  first  made  their  complaints 
with  moderation — simply  asking  that  justice 
should  be  done  to  the  murderers. 

No  attention  was  paid  to  these  complaints, 
and  the  injured  party  took  justice  into  their 
own  hands,  solemnly  vowing  to  exterminate 
the  haughty  race  or  perish  in  the  attempt. 
Long  series  of  retaliatory  inroads  were  from 
this  time  made  by  each  into  the  territories  of 
the  other,  which  finally  ended  greatly  to  the 
advantage  of  the  Iroquois,  and  in  the  almost 
total  annihilation  of  their  enemies.  The  St. 
Francis  Indians  are  a  remnant  of  this  once 
powerful  tribe. 

Hiawatha. 

The  legend  of  Hiawatha  has  been  rendered 
familiar  to  most  readers  of  American  poetry 
by  the  metrical  version  of  Longfellow,  and  the 
prose  of  Clark,  Schoolcraft  and  others,  and 
much  controversy  has  been  had  with  respect 
to  the  author  of  the  legend  as  it  first  appeared 
in  English.  We  accept,  as  fully  reliable,  the 
statement  made  by  the  late  Hon.  J.  V.  H. 
Clark,  of  Manlius,  author  of  the  History  of 
Onondaga  County,  in  a  letter  to  the  New 
York  Tribune,  in  January,  1856,  in  which  the 
claims  of  various  writers  and  the  dates  of 
their  publications  are  precisely  stated. 

The  legend  relates  to  the  origin  of  the 
League  of  the  Iroquois,  at  a  time  which  no 
record  fixes  by  date,  and  no  circumstance 
acceptable  to  the  historian  would  lead  him  to 
locate  otherwise  than  somewhere  in  that 
period  clouded  in  the  uncertainties  of  the 
forgotten  past.     We  cannot  present  its  begin- 


\ 


■] 


« 


GENERAL  DESCRfP  T/ON. 


33 


I  them  at 

0  go  out 
bting  but 
in  end  to 
:heir  own 
ess  turned 

1  returned 
jrtified  at 

the  next 
rivals  as 
3Ugh  con- 
/ered,  and 
:omplaints 
dat  justice 

lomplaints, 
into  their 
xterminate 
e  attempt, 
were  from 
rritories  of 
atly  to  the 
the  almost 
The  St. 
this  once 


rendered 
:an  poetry 
)w,  and  the 
ithers,  and 
th  respect 
;t  appeared 
eliable,  the 
J.  V.  H. 
History  of 
the    New 
which  the 
dates  of 
ed. 

in  of  the 
which  no 
cumstance 
5ad  him  to 


ning,  which  was  in  this  region,  more  appropri- 
ately than  in  the  original  language  of  Mr. 
Clark: 

"  Hundreds  of  years  ago,  Ta-oun-ya-\vat-ha,  the 
Deity  who  presides  over  fisheries  and  streams,  came 
down  from  his  dwelling  place  in  the  clouds  to  visit 
^  ttie  inhabitants  of  the  earth.  He  had  been  deputed 
3  by  the  Great  and  Good  Spirit,  Ha-wane-u,  to  visit 
■^  streams  and  clear  the  channels  from  all  obstructions, 
to  seek  out  the  good  things  of  the  country  through 
which  he  intended  to  pass,  that  they  might  be  more 
generally  disseminated  among  all  the  good  people 
of  the  earth  —  especially  to  point  out  to  them  the 
most  excellent  fishing  grounds,  and  to  bestow  upon 
them  other  acceptable  gifts.  About  this  time,  two 
young  men  of  the  Onondaga  Nation  were  listlessly 
gazing  over  the  calm  blue  waters  of  the  Lake  of  a 
Thousand  Isles.  During  their  reverie  they  espied, 
as  they  thought,  far  in  the  distance,  a  single  white 
speck,  beautifully  dancing  over  the  bright  blue 
waters,  and  while  they  watched  tiie  object  with  the 
most  intense  anxiety,  it  seemed  to  increase  in  mag- 
nitude, and  moved  as  if  approaching  the  place  where 
they  were  concealed,  most  anxiously  awaiting  the 
event  of  the  visitation  of  so  singular  an  object  —  for 
at  this  time  no  canoes  had  ever  made  their  appear- 
ance in  the  direction  whence  this  was  approach- 
ing. As  the  object  neared  the  s.iorc,  it  proved  in 
semblance  to  be  a  venerable  looking  man,  calmly 
seated  in  a  canoe  of  pure  white,  very  curiously  con- 
structed and  much  more  ingeniously  wrought  than 
those  in  use  among  the  tribes  of  the  country.  Line 
a  cygnet  upon  the  wide  blue  sea,  so  sat  the  canoe  of 
To-oun-ya-wat-ha  upon  the  Lake  of  aTliousand  Isles. 
"  As  a  frail  branch  drifts  towards  the  rushing  cata- 
ract, so  coursed  the  white  canoe  over  the  rippling 
waters,  propelled  by  the  strong  arm  of  the  god  of  the 
river.  Deep  thought  sat  on  the  brow  of  the  gray- 
headed  mariner  :  penetration  marked  his  eye,  and 
deep,  dark  mystery  pervaded  his  countenance  With 
a  single  oar  he  silently  paddled  his  light-trimmed 
barJc  along  the  shore,  as  if  seeking  a  commodious 
haven  of  rest.  He  soon  turned  the  prow  of  his 
fragile  vessel  into  the  estuary  of  the  'double  river,' 
and  made  fast  to  the  western  shore.  He  Majestically 
ascended  the  steep  bank,  nor  stopped  till  he  had 
gained  the  loftiest  summit  of  the  western  hill. 
Then  silently  gazing  around  as  if  to  examine  the 
country,  he  became  enchanted  with  the  view,  and 
drawing  his  stately  form  to  its  utmost  height,  he  ex- 
claimed in  accents  of  the  wildest  enthusiasm,  Osh- 
wah-kee,  Osh-wah-kee." 

He  approached  the  two  young  hunters, 
gained  their  confidence,  and  having  drawn 
from  them  a  knowledge  of  the  difficulties  un- 
der which  they  labored,  disclosed  to  them  the 


spirituality  of  his  character,  and  the  object  of 
his  mission  He  invited  them  to  attend  him 
in  his  passage  up  tl'.e  river,  and  they  witnessed 
many  thingi  whroh  could  only  be  accounted 
for  as  miracles,  or  be  described  but  in  the 
wonders  of  Indian  mythology.  He  ascended 
to  the  lesser  lakes,  placed  all  things  in  proper 
order  for  tlie  comfort  and  sustenance  of  man, 
taught  them  how  to  cultivate  corn  and  beans, 
which  had  not  before  been  grown  by  them, 
made  the  fishing  ground  free,  and  opened  to 
all  the  uninterrupted  pursuit  of  game.  He 
distributed  among  mankind  the  fruits  of  the 
earth,  and  retnoved  all  obstructions  from  the 
navigable  streams.  Being  pleased  with  his 
success,  he  assumed  the  character  and  habits 
of  a  man,  and  received  the  name  Hi-a-wat-ha, 
(signifying  "  /ery  wise  man,")  and  fixed  his 
residence  on  the  beautiful  shores  of  Cross 
Lake.  After  a  time,  the  country  became 
alarmed  by  a  hostile  invasion,  when  he  called 
a  council  of  all  the  tribes  from  the  east  and 
the  west,  and  in  a  long  harangue  urged  upon 
th'-m  the  iin])ortance  of  imiting  themselves  in 
.  leagi.f  for  their  common  defense  and  mutual 
happiness.  They  deliberated  upon  hip  advice, 
and  the  next  day  adojjted  and  ratified  the 
League  of  Union  which  he  recornmeiided. 
As  Lycurgus  gave  law  to  the  Spartans,  and 
swore  them  to  faithfully  observe  its  precepts 
until  his  return  from  a  journey,  and  then  de- 
parted to  return  no  more,  so  Hi-a-wat-ha, 
having  brought  the  council  to  a  close,  and  as 
the  assembled  tribes  were  about  to  separate 
cm  their  return  home,  arose  in  a  dignified 
manner,  and  thus  addressed  tl.jm  : 

"  Friends  and  Brothers  :  —  I  have  now  fulfilled  my 
mission  upon  earth;  I  have  done  everything  which 
can  be  done  at  present  for  the  good  of  this  great 
people.  Age,  infirmity  and  distress  sit  heavily  upon 
me.  During  my  sojourn  among  you  I  have  re- 
moved all  obstructions  from  your  streams.  Canoes 
can  now  pass  everywhere.  I  have  given  you  good 
fishing  waters  and  good  hunti',.;  grounds;  I  have 
taught  you  how  to  cultivate  corn  and  beans,  and 
have  learned  you  the  art  of  making  cabins.  Many 
other  blessings  I  have  liberally  bestowed  upon  you. 

"  Lastly,  I  have  now  assisted  you  to  form  an  ever- 
lasting league  and  covenant  of  strength  and  friend- 
ship, for  your  future  safety  and  protection.  If  you 
preserve  it  without  the   admission  of  other  people 


34 


A    SOUVEXIR   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


you  will  always  be  free,  numeious  and  mighty.  If 
other  nations  are  admitted  to  your  councils,  they 
will  sow  jealousies  among  you,  and  you  will  become 
enslaved,  few  and  feeble.  Remember  these  words  ; 
they  are  the  last  you  will  hear  from  the  lips  of  Hi-a- 
wat-ha.  Listen,  my  friends  ;  the  Great-Master-of- 
Breath  calls  me  to  go.  I  have  patiently  waited  his 
summons.     I  am  ready  :  Farewell." 

As  the  wise  man  closed  his  speech,  there 
burst  upon  the  ears  of  the  assembled  multi- 
tude the  cheerful  sounds  of  the  most  delight- 
ful singing  voices.  The  whole  sky  seemed 
filled  with  the  sweetest  melody  of  celestial 
music;  and  heaven's  high  arch  echoed  and  re- 
echoed the  touching  strains  till  the  whole  vast 
assembly  was  coiTipletely  absorbed  in  rapturous 
ecstacy.  Amidst  the  general  confusion  which 
now  prevailed,  and  while  all  eyes  were  turned 
towards  the  etherial  regions,  Hi-a-wat-ha  was 
seen  majestically  seated  in  his  canoe,  grace- 
fully rising  higher  and  higher  above  their 
heads  through  the  air  until  he  became  entirely 
lost  from  the  view  of  the  assembled  throng, 
who  witnessed  his  wonderful  ascent  in  mute 
and  admiring  astonishment —  while  the  fasci- 
nating music  gradually  became  more  plaintive 
and  low,  and  finally  sweetly  expired  in  the 
softest  tones  upon  their  ears,  as  the  wise  man 
Hi-a-wat-ha,  the  godlike  Ta-ounya-wat-ha, 
retired  from  their  sight,  as  mysteriously  as  he 
first  appeared  from  The  Lake  of  a  Thousand 
Isles,  and  quietly  entered  the  regions  inhabited 
only  by  the  favorites  of  the  great  and  good 
spirit  Ha-wah-ne-u. 

In  the  legend,  as  rendered  by  Longfellow, 
no  allusion  to  this  region  is  specifically  made, 
andithe  scene  of  events  is  located  in  the  west, 
on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  in  the 
region  beyond  the  Pictured  Rocks  and  the 
Grand  Sable. 

Creation  of  the  Indian  Race. 

Among  the  traditions  of  various  Indian 
tribes  we  find  a  legend  of  their  creation, 
which,  although  differing  more  or  less  in  de- 
tails, agrees  in  ascribing  their  origin  to  a  peo- 
ple who  came  out  of  the  ground.  Of  this 
mythological  belief  we  have  an  interesting  ex- 
ample in  this  part  of  the  world,  as  given  by 


M.  Pouchet,  a  French  wr  ter  of  acknowledged 
merit,  who  recorded  what  he  saw  and  heard. 
This  writer  was  an  officer  in  the  French  ser- 
vice, and  commanded  Fort  Levis,  on  the  Oraco- 
nenton  Isle,  a  short  distance  below  Ogdens- 
burg,  when  this  last  stronghold  of  the  French 
was  captured  by  Lord  Amhurst  in  1760. 

He  subsequently  prepared  a  history  of  the 
events  in  which  he  had  himself  borne  an  im- 
portant part,  which  was  published  some  yeais 
after  his  death,  and  in  this  he  gives  much  in- 
formation concerning  the  Indians  who  then 
inhabited  this  region.  In  describing  the  shores 
of  Lake  Ontario,  he  speaks  of  a  great  arc  of 
sand  hills  along  the  eastern  end  of  the  lake, 
behind  which  are  marshy  meadows,  through 
which  the  rivers  wind.  This  description  clearly 
identifies  these  streams  with  those  now  known 
as  the  North  and  South  branches  of  Sandy 
Creek,  in  the  town  of  Ellisburgh,  Jefferson 
county,  which  unite  just  above  the  point  where 
they  enter  tlie  lake.  They  are  remarkable  in 
this,  that  at  tlie  head  of  the  South  Branch  is 
the  place  where  the  traditions  of  the  Iroquois 
fix  the  spot  "  where  they  issued  from  the 
ground,  or  rather,  according  to  their  tradi- 
tions, where  they  were  born." 

Traces   of   Indian   Records  on  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

Opposite  the  village  of  Oak  Point,  in  Eliza- 
beth Township,  Canada,  there  existed  in  1850, 
and  perhaps  does  still,  a  rude  representation 
of  a  canoe  with  thirty-five  men,  and  near  it  a 
cross.  On  tlie  rocks  below  Rockville  th^re 
were  two  similar  paintings,  each  being  a  canoe 
with  six  men.  A  deer  rudely  painted  on  the 
rocks  was  found  on  the  shore  of  Black  Lake, 
a  few  miles  inland  from  Morristown,  and 
doubtless  other  rude  sketches  of  the  kind  may 
be  found.  These  are  probably  of  coinpara- 
tively  modern  origin,  or  at  most  not  earlier 
than  the  time  of  European  settlement.  They 
may  have  been  significant  of  some  event 
at  the  time  when  made,  but  whatever  the 
objects  may  have  been,  they  have  passed  into 
oblivion  with  the  memory  of  those  who  made 
them. 


GENERAL    DESCRIPTION. 


3S 


:nowledged 
and  heard. 
French  ser- 

the  Oraco- 
w  Ogdens- 
the  French 

1760. 

tory  of  the 
arne  an  im- 

some  yeais 
s  much  in- 
>  who  then 
I  the  shores 
reat  arc  of 
)f  the  lake, 
ivs,  through 
ition  clearly 
now  known 
;s  of  Sandy 
h,  Jefferson 
point  where 
markable  in 
h  Branch  is 
he  Iroquois 
1    from    the 

their  tradi- 


N    THE  St. 

t,  in  Eliza- 
ted  in  1850, 
)resentation 
id  near  it  a 
cville  thqre 
ing  a  canoe 
nted  on  the 
Hack  Lake, 
town,    and 
e  kind  may 
f  compara- 
not  earlier 
ent.     They 
ome    event 
latever  the 
passed  into 
:  who  made 


Expeditions  of  De  Courcelle  and  De 
Tracy. 
In  the  papers  relating  to  De  Courcelle'sand 
De  Tracy's  expeditions  against  the  Mohawk 
Indians  (1665-6),  in  describing  the  routes 
leading  into  the  Iroijuois  country,  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  mentioned  as  ex- 
ceedingly difficult  until  the  rapids  are  passed. 

"  But  when  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Lake  is 
reached,  the  .avigation  is  easy,  when  the  waters  are 
tranquil,  becoming  insensibly  wider  at  first,  then 
about  two-thirds,  next  one-half,  and  finally  out  of 
sight  of  land;  especially  after  one  has  passed  an 
infinity  of  little  islands  which  are  at  the  entrance  of 
the  lake  in  such  great  numbers,  and  in  such  a 
variety,  thai  the  most  experienced  Iroquois  pilots 
sometimes  lose  themselves  there,  and  have  consid- 
erable difficulty  in  distinguishing  the  course  to  be 
steered  in  the  confusion,  and,  as  it  were,  in  the  laby- 
rinth fovined  by  the  islands.  Some  of  these  are 
only  huge  rocks  rising  out  of  the  water,  covered 
merely  by  moss  or  a  few  spruce  or  other  stunted 
wood,  whose  roots  spring  from  the  clefts  of  the 
rockr,  which  can  supply  no  other  aliment  or  moist- 
ure to  these  barren  trees  than  what  the  rains  furnish 
them.  After  leaving  this  abode  the  lake  is  discov- 
ered, appearing  like  unto  a  sea  without  islands  or 
bounds,  where  barks  and  ships  can  sail  in  all  safety 
so  that  the  communications  would  be  easy  between 
all  the  French  colonies  that  could  be  established  on 
the  borders  of  this  grer.t  lake  which  is  more  than  a 
hundred  leagues  long,  by  thirty  or  forty  wide." 

French  Missionaries. 

Among  the  pioneers  of  discovery  were  the 
missionaries  who  were  sent  out  to  gain  the 
friendship  and  secure  the  conversion  of  the 
Indian  tribes  of  the  interior.  These  zealous 
men  allowed  no  obstacles  or  dangers  to  inter- 
rupt their  efforts  or  dampen  their  ardor,  but 
with  an  energy  and  perseverance  tlint  cannot 
fail  to  excite  our  admiration,  they  pursued 
their  way  to  the  remotest  parts  of  the  interior, 
where  some  lived  many  years  among  the  sav- 
ages amid  all  the  privations  of  a  wilderness, 
and  others  were  murdered,  or  miserably  per- 
ished in  the  solitudes  of  the  forest.  We  can 
here  mention  but  a'  few  of  these  pioneers  and 
discoverers: 

Francois  de  Salignac  de  Fenelon,  half 
brother  of  the  illustrious  French  writer,  the 
Archbishop  of  Cambray,  came  to  Canada  in 


1667,  and  was  for  some  time  engaged  in  the 
Indian  missions  at  Toronto  and  elsewhere. 

The  Abbe  Fenelon  accompanied  the  Count 
de  Frontenac  to  Lake  Ontario  in  1673. 

Louis  Hennepin,  a  Franciscan,  came  to 
Canada  in  1675,  and  was  stationed  the  next 
year  at  Frontenac,  Kingston.  He  was  after- 
wards sent  by  La  Salle  to  explore  the  country, 
and  was  the  first  European  who  saw  the  Mis- 
sissippi river.  In  1697  he  published  an  ac- 
count of  remote  regions  that  he  pretended  to 
liave  visited,  but  which  is  now  regarded  in 
part  at  least  as  a  fiction.  Father  Marquette 
also  made  extensive  journeys  in  the  west,  and 
died  at  Mackinaw,  May  14,  1675.  Menard, 
Allouez  and  many  others  passed  this  way  on 
their  journeys  to  distant  points,  but  these  men 
were,  as  a  rule,  little  given  to  romantic 
descriptions,  and  their  "  relations "  pertain 
more  to  the  proper  object  of  their  missions, 
than  to  the  scenery  tliat  they  passed. 

Father  Emmanuel  Crespel,  in  a  little  work 
publislied  in  1742,  describes  some  incidents  of 
a  journey  into  the  Indian  country  on  the 
Upper  Lukes.  He  was  fifteen  days  going 
from  Montreal  to  Frontenac,  and  was  there 
detained  some  time  in  waiting  for  a  vessel  to 
Niagara.  This  was  of  about  eighty  tons  bur- 
then, and  apparently  the  only  one  then  on  the 
lake.  The  passage  was  made  in  less  than 
thirty-six  hours.  The  lake  was  very  calm 
and  he  sounded  with  a  line  of  a  hundred 
fathoms  without  finding  bottom. 

On  his  return  he  remained  two  years  at 
Frontenac,  when  he  was  recalled  to  Montreal, 
and  soon  afterwards  was  sent  to  La  Pointe  de 
la  Chevelure  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  in  the  present  State  of  Vermont,  and 
opposite  the  French  post  at  Crown  Point. 

First  Military  Establishment  Upon  Lake 
Ontario — Fort  Frontenac. — {1673.) 

In  order  to  protect  the  French  interests,  the 
Count  de  Frontenac  resolved  to  establish  a 
military  post  at  the  outlet  of  the  Lake,  and 
with  the  view  of  impressing  the  natives  with 
the  power  of  the  French,  he  resolved  to  take 
two  flat  bottomed  canoes  up  the  rapids,  and 
even  to  mount  them  with  cannon,  to  inspire 


36 


A   SOL'l'ENIH  OF    THE  ST.  /.AlVRENCE  RtVER. 


them  with  awe.  The  boats  were  built  after  a 
particular  model,  painted  unlike  anything  ever 
seen  before,  and  were  each  manned  by  sixteen 
men.  With  these  and  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  bark  canoes  he  left  Montreal  on  the 
i6th  of  June,  and  in  about  three  weeks  reached 
the  beginning  of  smooth-water  navigation. 
Hearing  that  the  Indians  had  assembled  in 
great  numbers,  and  were  uneasy  about  the  ob- 
ject of  his  expedition,  he  resolved  to  proceed 
with  caution,  in  one  body,  and  in  closer  column 
than  before.  The  weather  was  so  serene,  and 
the  navigation  so  smooth,  that  they  made  more 
than  ten  leagues  the  first  day,  and  went  into 
camp  at  a  cove  about  a  league  and  a  half  from 
Grenadier  Island,  where  the  eel-fishing  begins. 
In  his  Journal  he  says: 

"We  had  the  pleas-  .e  on  the  way  to  catch  a  small 
loon,  a  bird  about  as  irge  as  a  European  Outarde, 
of  the  most  beautiful  plumage,  but  very  difficult  to 
be  caught  alive,  as  it  dives  constantly  under,  so  that 
it  is  no  small  rarity  to  be  able  to  take  one.  A  cage 
was  made  for  it,  and  orders  were  given  to  endeavor 
to  raise  it,  in  order  to  send  it  to  the  King.  On  the 
nth  [of  July],  the  weather  continuing  fine,  a  good 
d^y's  journey  was  made,  having  passed  all  that  vast 
group  of  islands  with  which  the  river  is  spangled, 
and  camped  at  a  point  above  the  river  called  Gana- 
noque,  up  which  many  of  them  go  hunting.  It  has  a 
very  considerable  channel.  Two  more  loons  were 
caught  alive,  and  a  kind  of  deer,  but  the  head  and 
antlers  are  handsomer  than  the  deer  of  France." 

The  narrative  continues  with  an  account  of 
the  regal  inanner  with  which  the  Count  de 
Frontenac  entered  the  lake,  and  the  inter- 
views he  had  with  the  Indians.  In  short, 
nothing  which  pomp  and  ceremony — the 
waving  of  banners,  martial  music,  and  the  dis- 
charge of  cannon  could  do,  was  omitted,  to 
impress  the  wondering  natives  with  an  over- 
whelming idea  of  the  omnipotence  of  the 
French.  The  speeches  and  proceedings  of 
the  occasion  are  all  found  fully  recorded. 
The  outline  of  a  fort  was  at  once  traced  out, 
and  its  construction  commenced.  Beginning 
work  by  daylight  on  the  14th,  the  ground  was 
cleared  before  night.  The  Indians  were  as- 
tonished to  see  the  large  clearance  made  in  a 
day — some  squaring  timber  in  one  place  ; 
others    fetching  pickets ;  and  others  cutting 


trenches,  all  at  the  same  time,  and  with  the 
greatest  dispatch  and  order. 

Expedition  ok  De  La  Barre. — (1684.) 

De  La  Barre,  Governor  of  Canada  from 
1682  to  1685,  had  distinguished  himself  in 
the  West  Indies,  where  he  had  taken  Anti|.',ua 
and  Montserat  from  the  English.  In  \C  ^, 
he  repaired  to  Fort  Frontenac,  and  ordered 
three  vessels  which  the  French  had  built  upon 
the  lake  to  be  repaired,  with  the  design  of 
crossing  to  the  country  of  the  Iroquois,  and 
frightening  the  people  into  his  own  terms  of 
peace.  His  army  consisted  of  600  soldiers, 
400  Indians,  and  400  men  for  carrying  pro- 
visions, besides  300  men  left  in  the  fort. 

The  Governor  tarried  six  weeks  at  Fronte- 
nac, his  encampment  being  near  a  pestilential 
marsh,  causing  so  great  sickness  and  mortality 
that  he  found  himself  unable  to  accomplish 
his  object  by  force  of  arms.  He  accordingly 
resolved  to  effect  what  he  could  by  treaty, 
and  havinj^  vainly  hoped  to  obtain  the  co- 
operation of  Gov.  Dongan,  he  sent  agents  to 
invite  the  Five  Nations  to  a  council.  The 
Governor  of  New  York,  although  in  sympathy 
with  the  religious  influences  so  actively  em- 
ployed by  the  French,  did  not  consent  to  any 
concurrence,  hut  secretly  put  every  obstacl? 
in  the  way;  and  in  this  he  so  far  succeeded, 
that  the  Mohawks  and  Senecas  remained  at 
home.  The  otlier  tribes,  who  were  more  un- 
der the  influence  of  the  French  missionaries, 
sent  representatives  to  meet  him,  consisting 
of  Garangula  and  thirty  warriors.  The  place 
of  meeting  was  at  the  mouth  of  Salmon  river, 
at  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  about 
forty  miles  from  Onondaga  castle. 

After  remaining  two  days  in  the  French 
camp,  the  Governor  proceeded  to  address  the 
Indians,  a  circle  being  formed  by  the  French 
officers  on  one  side,  and  Garangula  and  his 
warriors  on  the  other. 

We  have  not  space  to  print  the  speeches 
made  upon  each  side  by  the  "  high  contract- 
ing parties,"  but  De  la  Barre  entirely  failed 
in  placating  or  overawing  the  Indians,  who 
became  insolent,  and  at  last  openly  defied  that 
officer,  who  was  soon  compelled  to  retreat,  and 


his 
at 


was 


no 


UEXEHAL   DESCKI/' //ON. 


$7 


his  command  reached  Krontenac  (Kingston) 
at  last  miicli  demoralized.  The  expedition 
was  so  much  of  a  failure  as  to  be  almost  stig- 
matized as  puerile. 

Expedition  of  Ue  Nonville. — (1685.) 

In  1685,  the  Marquis  I)e  Nonville  made  an 
expedition  into  the  Genesee  country,  but  left 
no  record  of  local  interest  concerning  the 
islands. 

The  Avenging    Inroad    of   the    Iroquois 
UPON  THE  French — (1688.) 

Early  in  July,  i688,  an  act  of  perfidy  on 
the  part  of  the  French  brought  down  upon 
their  settlements  the  terrible  vengeance  of  the 
Iroquois.  Passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence, 
they  landed  at  Lachine  on  the  26lh  of  July, 
and  fell  upon  tiie  unsuspecting  inhabitants, 
burning,  plundering  and  massacreing  in  all 
directions,  and  almost  up  to  the  defenses  of 
Montreal.  They  lingered  weeks  in  the  coun- 
try, laid  waste  the  settlements  far  and  wide, 
and  returned  with  the  loss  of  only  three  men. 
The  French  lost  about  a  thousand  persons  by 
this  inroad,  and  many  prisoners  were  carried 
off  for  a  fate  worse  than  sudden  death. 

The  French  at  Fort  Frontenac  were  obliged 
to  burn  the  two  vessels  they  had  on  the  lake, 
and  abandon  tlie  fort,  first  setting  a  slow 
match  to  the  powder  magazine.  The  fire 
happened  to  go  out  before  the  jiowder  was 
readied,  and  the  jilace  was  soon  plundered 
by  the  Indians.  The  garrison  set  out  in 
seven  bark  canoes,  travelling  only  by  night, 
and  hiding  by  day,  and  after  much  difficulty 
reached  Montreal  with  the  loss  of  one  canoe 
and  all  on  board. 

De  Nonville  witnessed  the  devastation  of 
his  colony  without  daring  to  resist  the  enemy 
while  engaged  in  their  work  of  ruin,  nor  on 
their  return.  He  was  succeeded  the  next 
year  by  Frontenac. 

Onondaga  Expedition  of  the  Count  De 
Frontenac. 

In  1696  the  Count  de  Frontenac  made  an 
incursion  into  the  country  of  the  Onondagas, 


but  the  only  mention  that  he  makes  of  this 
region  is  his  encampment  for  a  night  upon 
what  is  now  known  as  (Irenadier  island. 

Subsequent  Operations  of  the    French 
ON  Lake  Ontario. 

During  the  next  fifty  years,  the  French 
were  steadily  extending  their  trade,  and  en- 
deavoring to  attach  the  remote  Indian  tribes 
to  their  interests.  In  1687,  they  established 
a  fort  at  Niagara,  and  in  1722  the  English 
built  a  trading  house,  and  in  1727  a  fort  at 
Oswego.  Although  England  and  France  were 
during  much  of  this  time  at  peace,  and  the 
Governors  of  their  colonies  on  terms  of  cor- 
respondence, there  was  probably  no  period 
down  to  the  conquest  of  1760  during  which 
each  of  the  two  powers  was  not  busy,  through 
its  agents,  in  endeavoring  to  monopolize  the 
Indian  trade,  and  in  extending  this  influence 
with  the  native  tribes. 

Indian     Mission    at    Oswegatchie;     La 
Presentation. — (1749.^ 

A  considerable  number  of  Iroquois,  chiefly 
Onondagas,  having  been  induced  to  settle  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  a  mission  was  established  in 
1749,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie,  on  the 
site  of  the  present  city  of  Ogdensburg.  This 
mission  was  named  La  Presentation,  and  its 
founder  was  Francis  Picquet,  a  Sulpician. 
During  the  first  season  he  built  a  storehouse 
and  a  small  fort,  but  before  the  end  of  the 
year  his  settlement  was  attacked  by  a  band  of 
Mohawks,  who  burned  two  vessels  loaded  with 
hay,  and  the  palisades  of  the  fort.  After  this, 
some  soldiers  were  stationed  here  for  protec- 
tion. The  station  progressed  rapidly,  and  in 
1 75 1  a  saw  mill  was  begun. 

The  English  who  had  built  a  trading  house 
and  a  fort  at  0.^"'ego  many  years  before, 
naturally  looked  ■;.]•.  jealousy  upon  this  estab- 
lishment by  the  French.  Word  was  brought 
to  them  by  the  Indians,  concerning  their  posts 
lately  erected  on  the  Ohio,  and  the  informant 
said  "he  heard  a  bird  sing  that  a  great  many 
Indians  from  his  castle,  and  others  from  the 
Five  Nations,  were  gone  to  Swegage." 

In  June,  1754,  the  celebrated  Congress  of 


'  \, 


38 


A  sari'/.x/N  or  the  st.  lawkknce  kivkr. 


Representatives  from  the  P^nglish  Colonies, 
met  at  Albany,  to  consider  a  Plan  of  Union 
for  their  common  defense,  and  on  this  occasion 
these  encroachments  were  fully  discussed. 

In  the  war  which  followed,  La  Presentation 
became  a  point  of  outfit  and  rendezvous  for 
many  of  the  war  parties  that  laid  waste  the 
frontier  settlements  of  the  linglisli,  from  which 
they  usually  returned  bringing  jjrisoners  and 
scalps.  Many  of  tliese  expeditions  were  led 
by  Picquet  himself.  Tiiomas  Mante,  in  his 
history  of  the  French  war,  says; 

"As  to  ihe  Abb6  I'icquct,  wlio  distinguished  him- 
self so  imich  by  his  l)rutal  /cal,  as  he  did  not  expose 
hiiii<iclf  to  any  danger,  lie  received  no  injury;  and 
he  yet  lives,  justly  despised  to  such  a  degree  by  every 
one  who  knows  anything  of  his  past  conduct  in 
America,  that  scarce  any  officer  will  admit  him  to 
his  table.  However  repugnant  it  must  be  to  every 
idea  of  honor  and  humanity,  not  to  give  quarter  to 
an  enemy,  when  subdued,  it  must  be  infinitely  more 
so  not  to  spare  women  and  children.  Yet  such  had 
often  been  the  objects  of  the  Abb6  Picquet's  cruel 
advice,  enforced  by  Ihe  most  barbarous  examples, 
especially  in  the  English  settlements  on  the  back  of 
Virginia  and  Pennsylvania." 

He  returned  to  France,  where  he  died  July 
15,  1 78 1.  He  w.Tis  succeeded  at  La  Presenta- 
tion (Ogdensburg)  by  La  Garde,  a  Sulpician, 
and  the  mission  was  continued  until  broken 
up  in  1760.  The  Oswegatchies  continued  to 
live  on  the  south  shore  and  on  the  islands  at 
the  head  of  the  Rapids  until  1806,  when  the 
proprietor  of  the  lands  caused  their  removal, 
a  part  going  to  St.  Regis,  and  others  return- 
ing to  Onondaga.  Some  years  since,  the  cor- 
ner-stone of  a  building  erected  near  the  site 
of  the  present  light-house,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  harbor  at  Ogdensburg,  was  found  in 
taking  down  the  building.  It  may  now  be 
seen  ovc  the  door  of  a  building  erected  for  a 
State  arsenal  in  that  city,  and  bears  the  fol- 
lowing inscription: 

In  nomine  +  Dei  Omnipotentis 

Huic  habitationi  initiadedit 

Frans  Picquet.     1749. 

These  premises  remained  standing  when  set- 
tlement began  under  title  from  the  State,  in 
1796,  and  until  long  afterwards.  They  were 
fitted  up  for  a  store  and  for  dwellings  until 


better  could  be  built,  and  the  site  of  the  foun- 
dations may  still  be  traced. 

Operations  IN  1755-6:  Capture  ok  Oswego. 

The  war,  which  ended  in  the  conquest  of 
Canada,  is  without  incident  so  far  as  relates  to 
the  Thousand  Islands;  but  many  events  oc- 
curred upon  this  frontier,  which  became  the 
thoroughfare  of  large  armies,  the  only  com- 
munication then  known  being  by  the  river, 
between  the  settled  parts  of  Canada  and  the 
upper  lakes. 

In  the  suminer  of  1755  the  Frenc)  en- 

gaged in  strengthening  the  post  at  Frontenac, 
and  later  in  the  season  at  Niagara.  The  first 
detachment  in  going  up  was  met  by  a  party  of 
Indians  among  the  Islands  on  the  ist  of  Au- 
gust. They  had  a  nuinber  of  scalps,  and  gave 
the  first  intimation  received  in  Canada  of  the 
defeat  of  Braddock's  army  near  Fort  DuQuesne 
a  fortnight  before.  This  success  of  the  French 
determined  many  of  the  Indians  to  take  up 
arms  against  the  English,  and  many  of  the 
cannon  captured  on  that  occasion  were  used 
by  the  French  at  Niagara  and  elsewhere  on 
the  northern  border  during  the  following  year. 

In  1756,  considerable  bodies  of  tror  were 
sent  from  France,  and  in  May,  the  '^.  s  de 

Montcalm,  Gen.  Bourlamaque,  two  c.-c  ..jers, 
and  an  anny  of  1,350  regulars,  1,500  Canadians 
and  250  Indians,  ascended  the  river  to  Fort 
Frontenac,  and  M.  de  Villers,  with  500  men, 
established  a  post  of  observation  on  Six-town 
Point,  in  the  present  town  of  Henderson,  Jef- 
ferson county,  the  outlines  of  which  may  still 
be  plainly  traced.  It  was  square,  built  of  up- 
right timbers,  with  bastions  at  the  corners,  and 
was  surrounded  by  a  ditch,  and  at  the  time 
hidden  from  view  by  surrounding  trees  and 
bushes.  This  officer,  who  was  captain  of  the 
marine,  was  brave  and  prudent,  and  had 
greatly  annoyed  the  English  by  pillaging  their 
munitions,  and  obliging  them  to  take  great  pre- 
cautions in  sending  provisions  to  their  troops 
at  Oswego. 

Montcalm  left  Fort  Frontenac  for  Point 
Peninsula  on  the  5th  of  August,  and  on  the 
7th  the  French  appeared  before  Oswego. 
There  were  at  this  time  two  forts  at  this  place 


<  ;/:xKh'  1 1.  />/:s(  K/r  rii  )X. 


H 


the  foun- 


f  Oswego. 

inquest  of 
.  relates  to 
ivents  oc- 
ecame  tlie 
Dtily  coin- 
tlie  river, 
a  and  the 

I  in- 

'rontenac, 

The  first 

a  parly  of 

1st  of  Au- 

and  gave 

da  of  the 

DuQiiesne 

he  French 

0  take  up 

ny  of  the 

were  used 

iwhere  on 

wing  year. 

or       were 

s  de 

..^  ..jers, 

anadians 

r  to  Fort 

500  men, 

Six-town 

rson,  Jef- 

may  still 

iilt  of  up- 

rners,  and 

the  time 

trees  and 

ain  of  the 

and    had 

ging  their 

great  pre- 

iir  troops 

or  Point 

d  on  the 

Oswego. 

this  place 


I 


i 


-  Fort  Ontario  on  the  east  side,  and  Fort 
l'f|)perell  on  tlie  west.  The  latter,  then  newly 
erected,  was  120  feet  stuiare,  a  rampart  of 
earth  and  stone,  20  feet  thick,  and  12  feet 
liigh,  besides  the  parapet. 

The  Frcncl)  began  their  approaches  on  the 
i2tii.  and  on  tlie  next  day  the  Englisli,  hav- 
ing spiked  tlieir  guns  and  destroyed  their  pro- 
visions and  amimmition,  withdrew  to  the  old 
fort  on  tlie  eastern  bank.  This  Col.  Mercer 
was  also  obliged  to  surrender  on  the  17th. 
The  English  force  consisted  of  2,400  men, 
who  yielded  upon  terms  dictated  by  Mont- 
calm, with  all  their  effects,  munitions,  arms 
and  military  stores. 

It  is  stated  by  English  historians  that,  not- 
withstanding the  pledges  of  Montcalm,  twenty 
of  the  garrison  were  given  up  to  the  Indians, 
by  way  of  atonement  for  the  loss  of  friends, 
and  that  all  the  sick  in  the  hospital  were 
scalped.  At  least  one  hundred  men  are  said 
to  have  fallen  victims  to  Indian  ferocity  after 
tlie  surrender,  the  remainder  being  taken 
down  to  Montreal,  where  they  were  mostly 
exchanged.  The  French  did  not  attempt  to 
[\'>\d  this  post  after  surrender,  but  most  of 
tlie  provisions  were  sent  to  Niagara  and  the 
artillery  to  Frontenac  and  Montreal.  Accord- 
ing to  Pouchot,  the  government  got  small  re- 
turns of  the  booty,  as  it  was  mostly  stolen  or 
converted  to  private  use  by  the  commissaries, 
stewards  and  other  agents  of  the  service,  who 
lost  no  opportunity  of  enriching  themselves  at 
the  king's  expense.  Some  of  the  very  articles 
captured  were  sold  back  to  the  government 
through  contractors.  Two  sloops  were  set  on 
fire  by  the  French  and  cast  adrift  upon  the 
lake.  The  greater  part  of  the  French  army 
returned  a  week  afterwards  to  Montreal,  and 
appeared  later  the  same  season  upon  Lake 
Champlain. 

Destruction  of  Fort  Frontenac,  (1758). 

In  August,  1758,  Colonel  John  Bradstreet 
arrived  at  Oswego  with  an  army  of  3,340  men 
and  crossed  the  lake  to  Fort  Frontenac,  which 
he  captured  with  a  trifling  loss.  After  de- 
stroying the  fort  and  securing  what  he  could 
of  the  immense  military  stores  there  deposited, 


he  returned  without  accident  to  Oswego.  He 
repaired  the  works  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river  at  that  place,  which  remained  i"-,  British 
possession  until  surrendered  to  the  United 
States  under  treaty  in  June,  1796. 

Expedition  of  Lord  Amherst,  (1760). 

The  war  between  the  French  and  English 
in  North  America,  which  begun  in  1755,  had 
led,  by  the  end  of  1759,  to  the  reduction  of 
Niagara,  Ticondcroga,  Crown  Point  and 
Quebec.  To  complete  the  concjuest,  three 
ex])eclitions  were  planned  for  1760  :  one  from 
Quebec,  another  by  way  of  Lake  Cham|)lain, 
and  a  third  by  way  of  Oswego  and  the  St. 
Lawrence  river.  The  latter  was  |)laced  under 
Cicneral  Jeffrey  Amherst,  and  the  forces  as- 
sembled at  Oswego  were  reported  on  the  5th 
of  August  as  consisting  of  the  1st  and  2d  bat- 
talion of  Royal  Highlanders,  the  44th,  46th 
and  55th  regiments,  the  4th  battalion  of  the 
Goth,  eight  companies  of  the  77th,  five  of  the 
80th,  597  grenadiers,  an  equal  number  of 
light  infantry,  146  rangers,  three  battalions  of 
til.:  New  York  regiment,  the  New  Jersey  regi- 
ment, four  battalions  of  the  Connecticut  regi- 
ment, and  157  of  the  Royal  Artillery  — 
amounting  in  all  to  10,142  effective  men, 
officers  included.  There  were  besides  706 
Indian  warriors  under  Sir  William  Johnson. 

The  first  detachment  of  troops  sailed  in 
two  vessels,  the  Mohawk  and  the  Onondaga, 
on  the  7th,  to  take  post  at  the  entrance  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  On  the  13th  all  had  em- 
barked, and  on  the  evening  of  that  day  they 
encamped  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Captain  Loring,  with  the  two  vessels,  who  had 
been  the  first  to  leave  Oswego,  lost  his  way 
among  the  islands,  and  while  endeavoring  to 
extricate  himself,  the  main  army  passed  him. 
They,  however,  arrived  a  day  or  two  after  at 
Point  au  Baril,  near  the  present  village  of 
Maitland,  where  the  French  the  year  before 
h?d  built  a  dock,  and  established  a  fortified 
ship-yard.  The  grenadiers  and  row-galleys 
had,  in  the  meantime,  taken  an  advanced  posi- 
tion at  Oswegatchie,  preparatory  to  an  attack 
upon  Fort  L^vis. 

This  fort  stood  upon  an  island  called  Ora- 


L 


mm 


40 


.4    son 'AW /A'   OF    THE   ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


conenton  by  the  Indians,  and  He  Royalc  by 
the  French, —  about  three  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie,  and  near  the  mid- 
dle of  the  channel,  which  it  comjiletely  com- 
manded. In  modern  times  it  is  known  as 
Chimney  island,  from  the  'ams  of  the  French 
works  still  visible  upon  it.     (In  Canada.) 

The  works  ui)on  this  island  were  begun  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  in 
the  summer  of  1759,  and  finished  in  1760  by 
Pouchot.  A  ma|)  given  by  Mantc  shows  that 
the  border  of  the  island  was  set  with  the 
trunks  of  trees  having  their  tops  still  on, 
and  firmly  set  in  the  ground,  so  as  to  jjresent 
an  impenetrable  abatis  of  brush  on  every 
side  but  the  landinc  at  the  lower  lmuI.  Within 
this  was  a  breastwork  of  earth,  and  behind  this 
a  deep  ditch  filled  with  water,  through  t'ne 
middle  of  which  there  ran  a  stockade  of  strong, 
sharpened  pickets,  closely  set  and  sloping 
outwards.  Inside  of  the  ditch  stood  the  Fort 
proper,  consisting  of  a  timber  parapet  filled 
with  earth,  with  a  line  of  strong,  sharpened 
pickets  sloping  out  over  the  ditch,  and  plat- 
forms for  cannon,  and  in  the  cr-nter  of  the 
works  the  iragazines  and  cpiarters.  The  lower 
point  of  the  island  was  not  included  within 
the  ditch  and  parapet,  but  had  defensive  works 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  lauding  of  boats. 

A  small  church  stood  nearthehead  of  Callop 
island,  a  short  distance  below  the  fort,  at  the 
time  when  this  post  was  taken.  The  English, 
finding  a  scalp  displayed  in  the  building, 
burned  it  to  the  ground  The  outline  of  the 
foundations  of  this  church  can  st'll  be  faced. 

The  events  attending  the  reduction  of  this 
fort — the  last  that  offered  any  resistance  in 
Canada,  may  be  learned  from  two  accounts: 
one  by  Mante,  an  English  historian  of  ap- 
proved credit,  ana  the  other  by  Pouchot,  the 
French  officer  who  defended  the  fort,  and 
afterwards  wrote  a  history  of  the  war,  that 
was  publislied  aftei  his  death. 

The  loss  of  thf;  English  was  tu-rnfv-oiie  kiUed  and 
nineteen  wounded.     The   first  shot    from  the    Eng- 


lish battery  killed  the  French  officer  of  artillery. 
Eleven  more  were  killed  afterwards,  and  about  forty 
wounded.  The  garrison,  except  the  pilofj,  for  the 
sake  of  whom  chiefly  the  pl.ice  had  been  attacked, 
were  sent  to  New  York;  and  the  general  named  the 
fort  FoRr  William  Augustus. 

OsWKGATCHIt;    UNDER    THE    ENGLISH. 

The  English  continued  to  occupy  Oswe- 
gatchie as  a  trading  post  until  1796,  and  dur- 
ing the  Revolution  it  was  a  point  of  some 
importance  as  a  place  for  the  storage  of  sup- 
plies, and  the  transfer  of  freight  from  boats  to 
vessels.  Although  the  St.  Lawrence  river  had 
been  declared  the  boundary  by  the  Treaty  of 
1783,  the  British  held  possession  of  the  whole 
line  of  posts  on  the  northern  frontier  to 
seciire,  as  they  claimed,  the  rights  of  certain 
Biitish  subjects.  In  the  absence  of  authority 
to  prevent  it,  the  owners  of  land  under  pur- 
chase from  the  State  suffered  great  damages 
from  timber  thieves,  who  operated  extensively 
and  without  the  least  restraint.  A  mill  on  the 
Oswegatchie  owned  by  one  Verne  Francis 
Lorinier,  a  half-pay  captain,  did  an  extensive 
business  in  this  line,  but  the  remonstrances  of 
proprietors  obtained  no  relief.  The  usual 
l)lea  when  these  complaints  were  brought  to 
the  attention  of  officials  was  that  they  had  no 
jurisdiction  in  the  matter,  and  that  relief 
should  be  sought  in  some  higher  authority. 

According  to  the  terms  of  "Jay's  Treaty," 
all  the  posts  within  the  United  States  were  to 
be  given  up  on  or  before  June  i,  1796.  Mr- 
Nathan  Ford,  agent  of  Samuel  Ogden  the 
projirietor,  took  possession,  and  at  once  began 
improvements  with  an  energy  that  could  not 
fail  of  success.  During  his  absence  the  first 
winter  the  Canadians  came  over,  held  a  town 
meeting,  elected  civil  and  military  officers 
and  opened  a  land  office  for  selling  and  set- 
tling his  landr,;  but  he  made  short  work  with 
these  squatters  and  their  title,  and  the  settle- 
ment grew  rapidly  until  i^s  prosperity  wr.s 
checked  for  a  time  by  the  embargo  of  1812 
and  the  war. 


H-l 


if  artillery, 
about  forty 
Jts,  for  the 
I  attacked, 
named  the 


GLISH. 

py    Oswe- 

and  diir- 

of  some 

;e  of  sup- 

a  boats  to 

river  had 

Treaty  of 

the  whole 

otitier    to 

of  certain 

authority 

nder  piir- 

:   datiiages 

xtensively 

nill  on  the 

e    Francis 

extensive 

[trances  of 

"he    usual 

rought   to 

ey  had  no 

at    relief 

thority. 

Treaty," 

s  were  to 

90.     Mr. 

^den    the 

ice  began 

:ould  not 

the  first 

d  a  town 

officers 

and  set- 

ork  with 

lie  settle- 

prity  wr.s 

of  1812 


rROM  THjB    0JTCM 


CARLTON  ISLAND  IN  THE  REVOLUTION. 


/^OR  more  than  eighty  years  the  traveller 
I  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence  by  way  of  the 

American  channel,  could  scarcely  have  failed 
to  notice  a  group  of  stone  chimneys  standing 
on  the  bluff  at  the  head  of  Carlton  Island. 
Inquiry  or  examination  disclosed  the  fact  that 
these  old  chimney  stacks  stood  within  an  elabo- 
rately fortified  enclosure  of  which  the  out- 
lines are  not  only  distinct,  but  in  a  degree 
quite  perfect,  so  that  the  plan  is  readiiy  deter- 
mined, the  system  identified,  its  armament 
approximately  adjudged,  its  magazines  and 
barracks  located,  and,  in  short,  its  whole  scr.pe, 
object  and  intent  made  reasonably  plain. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  bead  of 
Carlton  Island  consists  of  a  comparatively  low 
peninsula,  connected  by  a  neck  of  land  with 
the  main  island.  On  each  side  of  this  neck  or 
isthmus  is  a  bay,  one  arm  of  which  is  called 
South  bay  and  the  other  North  bay.  Back  of 
the  two  bays  the  island  rises  abruptly  in  a  steep 
bluff  to  a  height  of  about  sixty  feet  above  the 
water,  and  upon  Inis  bluff  the  fort  was  con- 
structed. 

The  work  occupied  three-eighths  of  an 
octagon,  extending  from  edge  to  edge  of  the 


cliff  on  which  it  was  built,  which  faces  to  the 
southwest.  The  rear,  or  landward  side,  was 
protected  by  a  strong  earth-work,  a  ditch,  an 
out-work  and  glacis  of  stone  and  a  strong 
abatis.  The  ditch  was  cut  in  the  limestone 
rock.  In  the  center  of  each  face  of  the  ram- 
parts, and  midway  betv/een  the  salients,  was 
a  strong  bastion,  constructed  for  four  guns, 
two  of  which  in  each  bastion  cou'd  enfilade  cor- 
responding angles  of  the  ditch,  which  was  cut 
to  a  depth  of  nearly  five  feet,  with  an  average 
width  of  twenty-four  feet.  The  scarp  was 
vertical  and  protected  by  a  cheveaux-de-frise 
of  cedar  logs,  sharpened  at  the  outer  ends, 
and  extending  beyond  the  berme  ;  these  were 
held  in  place  by  the  earth  of  the  parapet. 
The  counterscarp  was  also  vertical,  and  be. 
yond  it  extended  a  convert  way  of  about  the 
same  average  width  as  the  ditch.  There  were 
also  bomb-proof  magazines  and  barracks 
erected,  and  a  well  sunk  to  a  level  of  or  below 
the  water  in  North  bay.  On  the  loth  of 
June,  1793,  there  still  remained  in  the  fort 
ten  eighteen-pounders,  "ve  twelve-pounders, 
two  nine-pounders  and  two  six-pounders.  In 
1783,  ten  years  previous,  six  eighteens   and 


Q 
< 


o 

OS 

< 
'■J 

d 
< 


o 

u. 

u, 
o 


CARLFON  ISLAND  IN   THE  REVOLUTION. 


43 


o 

< 


z. 

o 

Hi 

<: 
o 


a 


o 

b 
b 

o 


five  twelves  had  been  taken  from  the  arma- 
ment of  the  fort  and  placed  upon  vessels;  so 
that  the  complete  armament  must  have  been 
sixteen  eighteens,  ten  twelves,  two  nines  and 
two  sixes;  in  all,  thirty  guns. 

As  early  as  1774,  Carlton  Island,  then 
known  as  Buck,  or  Deer  Island,  became  a 
trading  post  of  much  importance  for  Quebec 
merchants  who  were  dealing  with  the  Indian 
tiibes.  In  1775-6  the  British  government  had 
located  a  military  and  naval  supply  depart- 
ment on  the  island,  but  it  was  not  until 
August,  1778,  that  any  attempt  at  fortifying  it 
was  made.  The  reasons  for  so  doing  may  be 
very  briefly  stated.  At  the  breaking  out  of 
the  War  of  the  Revolution,  the  British  held 
Niagara,  Oswego,  Fort  Frontenac  (now  Kings- 
ton), and  undisputed  sway  of  the  lakes  and  of 
the  river  St.  Lawrence.  Sir  Guy  Carlton 
was  governor  of  the  Canadas,  and  commander- 
in-chief  of  his  Majesty's  forces  therein.  A 
campaign  against  the  colonies  was  planned 
early  in  the  war,  and  its  management  entrusted 
to  Gen.  John  Burgoyne,  instead  of  Sir  Guy 
Carlton.  The  plan  was  well  laid.  Bur- 
goyne was  to  move  on  Albany  by  way  of 
Lake  Champlain;  Col.  Barry  St.  Leger  was 
to  proceed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Oswego 
and  thence  to  Fort  Stanwix  (Rome),  and,  re- 
ducing that,  reach  Albany  by  way  of  the 
Mohawk,  and  form  a  junction  with  Burgoyne; 
while  Sir  Henry  Clinton  was  to  move  \\\)  the 
Hudson  River  to  the  same  point.  But  Bur- 
goyne was  defeated  at  Saratoga,  St.  Leger 
was  forced  to  raise  the  siege  of  Fort  Stanwix, 
and  Clinton  failed  to  reach  Albany  —  so  the 
well-laid  plan  was  defeated.  Thinking  him- 
self aggrieved  by  the  appointment  of  Bur- 
goyne, Sir  Guy  Carlton  resigned  his  position 
and  returned  to  England;  and  Sir  Frederick 
Haldimand  was  appointed  to  his  place. 

In  July,  1778,  Gen.  Haldimand  issued  an 
order  to  Lieut.  William  Twiss  of  the  Engi- 
neers, Lieut.  Schank  of  the  Navy,  and  Capt. 
Aubrey  of  the  47th  Regiment,  to  proceed  to 
the  upper  St.  Lawrence  and  there  select  such 
a  place  as  in  their  jud>;men«:  was  best  suited  to 
establish  a  ship-yard  and  all  its  necessary  re- 
quirements.    After  a  careful  examination  of 


several  points  they  pitched  on  Deer  Island. 
Capt.  Schank  had  a  force  of  artificers,  and 
Capt.  Aubrey  his  own  company  and  a  detach- 
ment of  Sir  John  Johnson's  "  Royal  Greens." 
Lieut.  Twiss  drew  tiie  plans  for  the  fort,  and 
named  it  Fort  Haldimand,  in  honor  of  the 
new  commander,  and  the  three  officers 
changed  the  name  of  the  island  from  "  Deer" 
to  "  Carlton,"  in  honor  of  their  former  com- 
mander, Sir  Gay  Carlton.  The  fort  was  never 
fully  completed,  work  being  discontinued  by 
order  of   Gen.  Haldimand  in  1783. 

During  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  Carlton 
Island  was  the  most  important  post  above 
Montreal.  Many  vessels  of  war  and  gunboats 
were  built  in  the  North  Bay,  and  the  place 
was  the  great  depot  of  military  and  naval  sup- 
plies for  the  Northwest.  It  was  the  place  of 
refuge  for  the  Tories  of  New  York,  Pennsyl- 
vania and  New  Jersey.  Thayendanagea,  the 
great  chief  of  the  Six  Nations,  made  this  his 
headquarters.  Large  numbers  of  those  tribes 
encamped  on  Carlton  and  Wolfe  islands. 
The  bloody  massacres  of  the  Cedars,  Wyo- 
ming, Cherry  Valley,  and  Stony  Arabia,  were 
planned  here,  and  executed  by  forces  which 
went  from  here. 

Wiiat  a  contrast  between  the  Carlton  Is- 
land of  117  years  ago,  and  now.  Then  all 
was  bustle.  Vessels  of  war  were  building,  a 
fort  in  construction;  the  drums  beat  the 
reveille,  and  the  roar  of  the  evening  gun 
startled  the  echoes  amid  the  dense  forests  on 
island  and  mainlaiid.  The  notes  of  the  bugle 
rang  shrill  and  clear  across  the  crystal  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  while  the  war-whoop  of 
the  painted  Iroquois  boded  death  and  disaster 
to  the  frontier  settler.  To-day,  all  is  quiet. 
Where  the  artificers  of  the  Revolution  built 
their  vessels  of  war,  the  artificers  of  to-day 
are  completing  the  finest  cottage  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  river.  The  land  earned  by  his  ser- 
vice in  the  Continental  army,  and  granted  to 
a  soldier  of  the  Revolution,  now  belongs 
to  a  gallant  soldier  of  a  later  Revolution, 
which  established  as  a  permanent  fact  that 
which  the  first  Revolution  only  inaugurated 
as  an  experiment  —  "The  Union,  one  and 
inseparable." 


44 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LA  WHENCE  RIVER. 


HON.  THOMAS  G.  ALVORD'S  FISHING  EXPERIENCES 


UPON   THE  RIVER,   EARLY   IN  THE  FORTIES. 


\(J^HEN  I  first  resolved  to  proceed  with 
'^  tlic  preparation  of  this  Souvenir,  my 
mind  conceived  the  idea  of  asking  some  one 
of  the  early  frequenters  of  the  Great  River  to 
write  up  his  early  experiences.  I  knew  that 
Silas  Wright,  and  Preston  King,  and  Martin 
Van  Buren  and  his  son  Prince  Jolin,  and  Dr. 
Bethune,  and  Pr.  Holland,  as  well  as  the  hun- 
dreds of  later  nion  of  equal  ability,  includ- 
ing Grant  and  SI  erman  and  Sheridan,  had 
all  passed  away  —  their  names  now  only  a 
memory  —  th.ei.'  presence  never  more  to  be 
recognized  by  th-:.  great  nation  that  delighted 
to  honor  them  when  living.  Casting  about 
for  some  aged  one,  yet  spared,  we  thought  of 
Lieut.  Gov.  Thomas  G.  Alvord,  of  Syracuse, 
and  he  has  graciously  complied  with  our  re- 
quest. Without  further  introduction  we  give 
his  admirable  letter;  preceding  it,  however, 
by  saying  that  he  was  for  many  years  the 
owner  and  occupant  of  what  is  known  as 
"Governor's  Island,"  now  the  property  of 
Mr.  Emery.  It  is  the  first  island  above  the 
or.e  upon  which  Mr.  C.  G.  Emery  built  a 
beautiful  villa,  which  he  has  lately  enlarged 
and  greatly  improved.  Mr.  Alvord's  long 
connection  with  the  political  history  of  the 
State  has  made  his  name  most  familiar  to  our 
people  under  the  cognomen  of  "  Old  Salt,"  a 
name  earned  in  the  Legislature  by  his  persist- 
ent adherence  to  the  fortunes  of  Syracuse 
where  the  well-known  Onondaga  Salt  Springs 
have  been  so  long  a  source  of  profit  to  the 
State,  as  well  as  the  source  of  very  much  of 
the  earlier  wealth  and  importance  of  that  city. 


Syracuse,  February  25,  1895. 
Jno.  a.  Haddock,  Esq.: 

My  DEAR  Sir.  —  I  am  in  receipt  of  your 
pleasant  letter  of  request  that  I  dot  down 
something  of  a  history  of  my  early  experi- 
ences as  an  amateur  fisherman  on  the  glorious 
and  lordly  St.  Lawrence.     To  this  request  I 


cheerfully  accede,  and  leave  to  you  the  deci- 
sion and  final  judgment  whether  or  nol  it 
shall  find  its  way  into  your  contemplated 
history  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  1,000 
islands. 

I  first  began  my  piscatorial  career  in  the 
waters  of  the  Hudson  river,  nine  miles  above 
Albany,  when  I  was  young  enough  to  be  without 
discretion,  but  old  enough  to  hook  a  sunfish, 
and  consequently  came  near,  on  one  occasion, 
being  drowned  by  falling  from  the  dock  into 
the  river.  My  love  for  the  sport  followed  me 
into  my  college  life,  and  as  often  as  possible  I 
explored  the  waters  of  Long  Island  Sound  for 
its  black-fish,  porgies,  etc.  I  carried  the 
taste  with  me  to  the  Berkshire  Hills,  and  in  a 
sojourn  of  two  years  explored  all  the  trout 
streams  and  pickerel  and  bass  ponds  within 
reach  of  a  day's  journey  from  Pittsfield,  Massa- 
chusetts. I  divided  my  time  for  two  years 
between  Blackstone  and  my  trout-rod,  on  the 
edge  and  over  the  line  between  wilderness 
and  semi-civilization  at  Keeseville  in  Clinton 
county,  and,  when  a  full-Hedged  lawyer  in 
Salt  Point,  I  had  a  right  to  stick  out  my  sign 
as  "  Atty.  at  Law,"  there  was  quite  often 
added  at  the  bottom  a  temporary  postscript, 
"P.  S.  Gone  fishing." 

From  time  to  time  I  would  hear  about  the 
beauties  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  many 
islands  in  conjunction  with  its  unequalled  ex- 
cellence as  a  hunting  ground  for  ducks,  arid 
its  great  abundance  of  the  gamiest  fish  to  be 
found  in  fresh  waters.  I  had  a  long-time  ac- 
quaintance with  a  Mr.  Dutton,  a  noted  music 
dealer  of  Utica,  who  as  early  as  in  the  later 
forties,  was  in  the  habit  of  spending  a  portion 
of  the  year  with  his  sons  fishing  on  the  river; 
so  finally,  in  1852,  I  proposed  to  a  brother- 
in-law  visiting  me  from  Indiana,  an  excursion 
to  Alexandria  Bay  via  Oswego.  Accordingly, 
one  September  morning  we  landed  there  from 
the   old  '*  Cataract,"  whose  bones   have    but 


HON.    THOMAS  G.  ALVORD'S  FISHING   EXPERIENCES. 


45 


the  deci- 
or  nol  it 
itemplated 

its   i,ooo 

eer   in   the 

liles  above 

be  witiiout 

:  a  sunfish, 

e  occasion, 

dock  into 

)llo\ved  me 

>  possible  I 

Sound  for 

arried    the 

s,  and  in  a 

I  the   trout 

inds  within 

eld,  Massa- 

two    years 

rod,  on  the 

wilderness 

in  Clinton 

lawyer    in 

Lit  my  sign 

uite    often 

postscript. 

about  the 
its  many 
quailed  ex- 
iurks,  and 
fish  to  be 
ig-time  ac- 
oted  music 
the  later 
a  portion 
the  river ; 
a  brother- 
excursion 
cordingly, 
there  from 
have    but 


very  lately  c  -appeared  from  the  waters  of  the 
lower  bay  at  Clayton,  where  she  had  enjoyed 
a  rest  for  many  years  after  she  ceased  to  be 
a  floating  passenger  transport.  At  that  time 
Alexandria  Bay  was  the  Mecca  of  fishermen, 
and  Clayton  the  headquarters  of  square-lim- 
ber cutting,  and  no  boatman  for  fisher-folk 
hailed  from  there  until  some  years  thereafter. 
Old  man  Crossmon  kept  the  only  caravansarie 
at  Alexandria  Bay,  and  his  then  small  estab- 
lishment on  the  rocks  was  hardly  ever  found 
unable  to  accommodate  all  comers.  The 
enormous  charge  of  $i.oo  per  day  also  in- 
cluded sufficient  lunch  for  the  noon-day  meal 
of  both  sportsman  and  guide,  taken  "  al  fresco," 
on  some  opportune  island;  the  food  furnished 
was  well  prepared,  and  the  more  delicate  ac- 
cessions, now  considered  almost  necessities, 
were  provided  under  the  careful  watch  of  the 
hostess.  It  was  always  neat,  abundant  and 
palatable. 

The  boats  of  that  day  were  but  the  crude 
prototypes  uf  the  present  exquisite  ones,  which 
have  no  superiors  on  the  globe  in  form,  finish 
or  perfect  adaptability,  with  their  well-matched 
oars,  center  boards,  cushioned  chairs,  and 
other  requisites,  superior  in  all  respects  foi 
the  uses  to  which  they  are  put.  Then,  under 
the  command  of  Commodore  Ned  Patterson, 
still  living  and  still  a  guide  (octogenarian  sure, 
if  not  centenarian),  I  embarked  on  my  first 
fishing  excursion  in  a  boat  made  of  pine  (not 
piano  finished),  sharp  at  each  end,  not  more 
than  14  feet  long,  low-sided,  with  naked 
wooden  boards,  without  back-rests  for  seats. 
Loaded  down  almost  invariably  on  the  return 
from  a  day's  fishing  with  their  human  cargo 
and  catch  of  fish,  the  gunwales  would  be  peril- 
ously near  the  level  of  the  water  of  the  river. 
The  remembered  oarsmen  or  guides  of  that 
day  were  old  man  Griffin,  Ned  Patterson, 
Alph  and  Tom  Comstock,  the  last  named 
being  my  favorite,  and  after  my  first  visit  in- 
variably my  guide  until  some  time  after  Alex- 
andria Bay  was  abandoned  for  Clayton  as  the 
nearer  point  for  the  more  desirable  fishing 
grounds.  Not  knowing  the  outfit  best  adapted 
to  the  river  in  the  matter  of  fishing-tackle,  and 
beinj;;  advised  that  the  boatman  furnished  all 


that  was  necessary  in  that  regard,  we  took  none 
with  us,  but  used  the  native  tools.  These  were 
crude  in  very  deed,  the  poles  were  home-made; 
the  lines  were  rough  and  the  spoon  for  trolling 
was  literally  the  bowl  of  an  iron  or  pewter 
spoon  with  a  single  big  coarse  hook,  braced 
on  the  lower  end,  and  attached  to  the  line 
without  swivel,  and  did  not  rotate  but  simply 
wobbled  in  the  water;  live  bait  for  bass  was 
not  then  thought  of,  but  a  supply  of  worms 
accompanied  each  boat.  The  Dultons  were 
there  with  their  more  artistic  appliances,  con- 
sisting of  spoons  with  swivels,  and  of  various 
colors,  and  fairly  smooth  laid-lines  and  jointed 
bambo  rods;  but  with  all  their  fancy  rigs  they 
very  seldom  succeeded  in  beating  our  catch 
with  the  homelier  tools.  P.ev.  Dr.  Bethune 
was  there;  he  was  the  donor  of  the  Stone 
Church  in  the  village,  in  which,  much  to  the 
gratification  of  the  natives  and  visitors,  he 
always  officiated  on  Sundays  when  in  town. 
He  was  a  bass  fisherman  and  used  a  fly  as  a 
lure.  After  leaving  Utica  for  New  York  he 
still  occasionally  was  to  be  met  in  the  season 
at  his  favorite  resort  luring  the  bass  with  the 
delusive  fly  during  the  week,  and  tempting 
men  and  women  on  Sundays,  by  his  powerful 
pulpit  eloquence,  to  a  better  and  purer  life. 
There  and  then  I  first  met  Seth  Green,  and 
then  commenced  a  warm  friendship  which 
ended  only  with  his  death.  He  never  failed 
for  years  to  supply  me,  "  unsolicited  on  my 
part,"  with  an  abundance  of  his  own-make  of 
flies,  both  single  and  in  gang,  and  whenever  we 
met  he  always  gave  me  a  learned  lecture  on 
the  progress  in  piscatorial  scieiice  and  art. 
He  was  at  that  time  and  for  many  years  there- 
after the  only  fisher  dweller  on  any  of  the 
beautiful  islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Archi- 
pelago, making  the  now  renowned  Manhattan 
Island  his  home  where  his  house  may  still  be 
seen,  though  remodeled  [see  frontispiece].  His 
memory  will  be  "  Green  "in  the  recollection  of 
many  to  whom  his  example  and  teachings  have 
imparted  a  love  for  a  sport  and  pastime  com- 
pelling them  to  commune  with  nature  where 
dressed  in  her  most  enticing  garb  and  to  drink 
in  the  pure  air  of  heaven,  bearing  to  them  a 
healthful  cure  —  restoring  body  and  soul  to  a 


46 


A   SOUVENIR   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


perfect  health  and  vigor,  and  sending  one  back 
to  battle  with  the  world  with  not  only  renewed 
and  restored  bodily  strength  but  with  a  mind 
attuned  to  a  higher  and  purer  conception  of 
duty  to  themselves  and  others. 

The  recital  of  the  surroundings  of  my  first 
visit  to  the  St.  Lawrence  would  be  incomplete 
if  I  did  not  dot  down  my  impressions  of  the 
natural  beauties  of  the  scene  afforded  by  the 
river  and  its  many  island  gems.  I  am  a 
natural  fisherman ;  given  intensely,  whenever 
opportunity  permits,  to  entice  and  ensnare 
the  cunning  water  dwellers.  I  have  been  a 
visitor  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  with  but  two 
exceptions,  each  returning  season,  for  over 
forty  years ;  and  during  that  period  I  have 
again  and  again  traversed  in  its  widest  extent 
every  nook  and  corner,  islet  and  island,  and 
mainland  as  well,  every  shoal  and  deep  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  from  Chippewa  on  the  north 
to  the  deep  indentation  at  the  head  of  Long  or 
Wolfe  Island,  stretching  up  into  Lake  Ontario, 
called  Reed's  Bay.  I  have  never  been  any 
day  upon  the  water,  when  my  line  has  not 
been  neglected  for  hours  in  order  to  drink  in 
the  invigorating  and  health-laden  air  and  the 
wondrous,  indescribable  beauty  and  (may  I 
say  it?)  sublimity  of  diversified  island  and  en- 
circling water. 

I  am  not  going  to  prolong  this  screed  by  a 
recital  of  my  wonderful  exploits  as  a  fisher- 
man. I  leave  that  task  to  time,  and,  perhaps, 
in  the  distant  future  I  may  be  deified  as  the 
great  "  American  Fisherman,"  and  my  re- 
ported deeds  almost  match  with  those  wonder- 
ful tales  rehearsed  at  camp  fire,  or  where'er 
the  jolly  fishermen  congregate. 

Suffice  it  to  say  that  I  generally  captured 
all  the  fish  I  was  entitled  to,  but,  what  was 
far  better,  I  took  in  annually  a  load  of  health 
which  has  prolonged  my  life  and  made  me 
retain  the  feelings  of  youth  in  spite  of  the  in- 


creasing number  of  years  added  to  my  roll- 
call. 

An  article  on  the  i,ooo  islands  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  would  be  incomplete  unless  a  full 
description  of  one  of  their  noted  features, 
"The  Boatman,  or  Guide,"  was  given.  Both 
by  an  experience  and  observation  of  40  years 
I  have  carefully  noted  and  studied  them,  and 
can  safely  claim  for  them  a  deservedly  proud 
position;  in  the  main,  browned  by  their  con- 
stant exposure  and  wearing  the  rough  habili- 
ments necessary  for  their  calling,  they  are, 
with  rare  exception,  Gentlemen  in  the  truest 
acceptation  of  the  word  ;  accomplished  oars- 
men and  sailors.  Though  not  learned  in 
books,  they  read  the  weather  more  correctly 
than  do  the  trained  signal-service  men  of  the 
Government;  they  are  perfect  masters  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  ways  of  the  errant  fishes; 
under  their  care,  gentle  woman  and  careless 
child  are  safe  from  all  harm  or  danger.  They 
are  enthusiastic  sportsmen,  they  never  strike 
for  an  eight-hour  day,  but  urge  the  lazy  fisli- 
erman  to  an  early  breakfast  and  sunrise-start ; 
and,  oftener  than  their  employer,  insist  ui)on 
one  more  circle  or  cast,  so  as  to  add  another  to 
the  well-filled  fish  box,  even  if  the  shades  of 
night  are  deepening  around  them.  In  all  the 
time  I  have  known  the  river  I  have  never 
heard  of  the  loss  of  the  life  of  a  fisherman  or 
visitor  by  the  carelessness  of  the  Guide. 
Without  apparent  fatigue,  they  ply  the  oar  for 
more  than  twenty  miles,  to  be  repeated  each 
recurring  day.  They  teach  the  tyro  the  gentle 
art,  they  cook  you  a  noon-day  meal  the  gods 
might  envy;  never  sulking,  always  anxious  to 
do  all  they  can  for  your  comfort  and  success. 
The  Boatman  of  the  1,000  islands  is  easily  tlie 
peer  of  that  great  army  who  contribute  to  the 
innocent  enjoyment  of  others. 

THOMAS  G.  ALVORD. 

Syracuse,  February,  1895. 


to  my  roll- 


Is  of  the  St. 
inless  a  full 
ed   features, 
;iven.      Both 
of  40  years 
d  them,  and 
rvedly  proud 
>y  their  con- 
ough  habili- 
g,   they  are, 
in  the   truest 
)lished  oars- 
learned     in 
ire   correctly 
:  men  of  tlie 
asters  in  the 
rrant  fishes; 
and  careless 
nger.     They 
never   strike 
he  lazy  fisli- 
unrise-start ; 
insist   upon 
Id  another  to 
le  shades  of 
In  all  tlie 
have    never 
fisherman  or 
the    Guide, 
the  oar  for 
peated   each 
•o  the  gentle 
al  the  gods 
s  anxious  to 
md  success, 
is  easily  the 
ibute  to  the 

LVORD. 


THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 


/^THIS  park  seems  to  have  been  an  out- 
^^  growth  of  that  wave  of  religious  senti- 
ment which  swept  over  the  country  about 
1874  —  the  result,  perhaps,  of  the  reaction  in 
men's  minds  which  usually  follows  great 
financial  de[)ression.  Its  contemporary  de- 
veloprnents  are  visible  at  Asbury  Park  and 
Ocean  Grove,  two  grand  summer  resorts  upon 
the  seaboard  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  latter 
manifestation  of  the  same  sentiment  at  Chau- 
tauqua, in  Western  New  York.  All  of  these 
movements  towards  summer  residences  bore  a 
distinctly  religious  character,  and  were  the 
outgrowth  of  a  sincere  desire  to  glorify  God, 
and  yet,  in  doing  so,  to  make  summer  homes 
where  families  could  receive'  the  benefit  of 
change  of  scene  and  of  air  and  perhaps  in 
their  manner  of  living. 

The  manifestation  of  this  impulse  at  Thou- 
sand Island  Park  is  due  to  the  efforts  of  Rev. 
J.  F.  Dayan,  a  well-known  Methodist  minis- 
ter, now  on  the  retired  list.  He  conceived 
the  idea  that  the  Methodist  denomination 
would  gladly  support  such  a  resort,  and  he 
selected  the  southwesterly  end  of  Wellsley 
Island  as  the  most  eligible  spot.  The  selec- 
tion was  judicious,  and  his  efforts  were  soon 
appreciated.  The  needed  lands  were  mainly 
purchased  (t,ooo  acres)  from  Capt.  Throop, 
whose  title  was  only  tlie  third  remove  from 
the  State  itself.  Success  crotvped  the  Associa- 
tion's efforts,  ^22,000  worth  of  lots  having 
been  sold  in  a  single  day.  Men  struggled  to 
secure  the  most  desirable  sites.  It  was  un- 
fortunate for  the  young  town,  however,  that 
the  extreme  religious  element  so  far  prevailed 
that  illy-considered  restrictions  were  imposed 
as  to   entrance  fee,   etc,  but   in   time  these 


peculiar  views  have  given  way  to  more  liberal 
ideas.  To  this  day,  however,  no  steamer  is 
allowed  to  land  at  their  dock  on  the  Sabbath, 
the  present  management  adhering  to  the 
original  plan  that  the  Sabbath  should  be  not 
only  a  day  of  rest  but  of  religious  observance. 
The  Thousand  Island  Park  is  now,  as  it  was 
at  the  beginning,  a  place  where  a  man  can 
leave  his  wife  and  children  and  feel  sure  that 
they  will  not  be  exposed  to  any  harmful  influ- 
ence of  any  nature  —  a  place  where  "the 
assassins  of  society  "  would  have  no  induce- 
ment whatever  to  come. 

The  situation  of  the  park  is  superior.  Back 
from  the  river-front  plateau  rises  a  rocky 
mound,  nearly  200  feet  in  height,  which 
afforded  a  permanent  and  accessible  locality 
for  a  water  reservoir  with  pressure  enough  ^o 
flood  the  highest  buildings.  The  soil  is  pro- 
ductive, resting  upon  the  moraine  of  this 
region,  the  result  of  glacial  action.  The 
second-growth  of  timber  is  mainly  oak  and 
elm,  remarkably  straight  and  vigorous,  and 
the  lot-owners  are  only  called  upon  to  decide 
what  tree  should  be  felled,  and  not  what  they 
should  plant.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive  of  a 
finer  location.  With  man's  intelligent  super- 
vision the  ])lace  may  be  made  the  most  de- 
lightful in  America.  Other  resorts  have  the 
ocean,  with  its  drifting  sands,  its  fogs,  its 
storms  —  this  park  has  the  great  St.  Law- 
rence, whose  waters  come  sweei)ing  down 
from  the  far  Northwest,  pure  as  the  melting 
snow  can  make  them,  fresh  as  the  breath  of 
spring,  placid  as  Nature  itself.  To  live  in 
such  a  spot  is  a  benediction  for  man  ;  there 
he  forgets  his  cares,  and  grows  into  a  life  of 
contentment  and  thankfulness. 


48 


A  SOUVENIR   OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


At  the  Thousand  Islands  there  is  a  percep- 
tible odor  of  ozone  in  the  atmosphere.  By 
some  it  is  called  a  "  sulphurous,"  by  others  a 
fishy  smell.  But  there  is  a  difference.  Ozone 
is  of  itself  an  energetic  chemical  agent.  It  is 
a  preservative,  not  a  putrifying  influence.  In 
this  it  differs  widely  from  oxygen,  the  princi- 
ple in  the  air  which  assists  in  decay.  There 
seems  to  be  a  reason  for  the  belief  that  the 
beneficial  effects  produced  upon  many  invalids 
from  a  residence  among  the  Thousand  Islands 


The  original  trustees  were  :  Chancellor  E. 
D.  Haven,  D.  D.,  President;  Willard  Ives, 
Vice-President;  Col.  Albert  D.  Shaw,  John 
F.  Moffett,  J.  F.  Dayan,  E.  C  Curtis,  E. 
Remington,  Hon.  James  Johnson,  M.  D. 
Kinney. 

Mr.  Dayan  continued  a  member  of  the 
board  and  as  secretary  and  general  manager 
until  1881.  Chancellor  Haven  resigned  in 
1881,  having  been  made  one  of  the  Bishops 
of  the  church  at  the  preceding  (ieneral  Con- 


di.'nt 
and 

tfl-'S 


■nil--.    COMIMlllA    imiKI,    AT    TiroUSANI)    ISI.ANH    r\kK. 


or  upon  the  sea-shore,  is  due  largely  to  the 
ozone  discernible  in  those  localities. 

The  casual  reader,  like  the  author  of  this 
book,  may  ask  to  know  more  about  "  ozone." 
He  has  been  told  that  the  term  is  used  to 
designate  the  life-giving  i)rinciple  which  per- 
meates the  air  we  breathe. 

The  original  capital  of  tlie  Association  was 
fixed  at  ^[5,000,  of  which  $7,100  was  paid  in 
cash.  On  January  nth,  1876,  the  indebted- 
ness of  the  Association  was  $24,647.81  and 
the  assets  $57,300.94.  The  capital  was  after- 
wards increased  to  $50,000. 


ference.  He  was  succeeded  by  Rev.  I.  S. 
Bingham,  D.  D.,  who,  in  1883,  gave  place 
to  Rev.  M.  D.  Kinney,  A.  M.,  who  had  been 
a  member  of  the  board  of  trustees  from  the 
first.  Under  his  energetic  management  many 
improvements  were  perfected,  and  there  came 
a  period  of  decided  growth.  He  continued 
as  President  for  seven  years,  and  the  Park 
owes  much  to  his  management,  and  to  the 
fact  that  he  has  been  of  financial  aid  at  many 
times. 

The  present  trustees  are  :    George  P.  Folts, 
President ;    George   C.    Sawyer,    Vice-Presi- 


THOUSAND  ISLAND   PARK. 


49 


incellor  F- 
Hard  Ives, 
haw,  John 
Curtis,  E. 
n,    M.    D. 

)er  of  the 
il  manager 
esigned  in 
le  Bishops 
neral  Coii- 


cev.   1.   S. 

Tave   place 

had  been 

from   the 

liient  many 

there  came 

continued 

the  Park 

Ind   to   the 

|d  at  many 

P.  Folts, 
'^ice-Presi- 


dcni;  Or.  A.  W.  Coodale,  2(1  Vice-President 
and  Secretary;  W.  R.  l-itch,  Treasurer.  'I'rus- 
,,,s:  (leorge  P.  Foltz,  F.  G.  Weeks,  (leorge 
C.  Sawver,  W.   R.   Fitch,  Walter  Brown,   Dr. 

A.  \V.  Goodale,  James   P.    Lewis,  A.  Gurnee, 

B.  M.    Britton;    Jas.  Smith,  Superintendent. 


ceiel)rated  preachers  in  the  United  States  and 
Canada,  and  the  reputation  of  the  Park  in 
this  respect  has  been  admirably  sustained. 
Rev.  Dr.  J.  F".  C.  Sawyer,  editor  of  the 
Nortiiern  Christian  Advocate,  delivered  two 
sermons  there  on  July  22,  1894,  that  were  the 


THE   LATF.   CUART.ES    CROSSMON, 
The  First  Summer  Hotel-keeper  upon  the  St.  Lawrence. 


The   reader  will   recognize  among  these  the 
names  of  prominent  and  influential  citizens. 

From  the  very  first  the  design  of  the  Asso- 
ciation has  been  to  secure  the  best  native 
talent  for  religious  services,  and  also  bringing 
from  abroad  men  of  established  reputation 
and  ability.  In  this  way  the  noble  Taber- 
nacle has  had  under  its  roof  some  of  the  most 


most  finished  and  stirring  the  writer  has  ever 
listened  to.  The  influences  that  have  gone 
out  from  that  Tabernacle  have  been  pecu- 
liarly inspiring  and  noble,  and  its  services 
ha"e  done  much  to  popularize  the  Park.  The 
auditorium  has  a  natural  slope,  the  acoustics 
are  admirable,  and  the  sight  most  unique  and 
interesting  when  the  vast  place  is  filled  with 


so 


,/    SOUVEN/K   or    THE   ST.   LAWRhNCE   RIVER. 


the  soa  of  upturned  faces  confronting  the 
speaker.  Situated  in  a  fine  growtli  of  oak, 
witli  great  curtains  at  the  sides,  whicli  can  be 
raised  or  lowered  as  desired,  the  i)eoi)le  are 
brought  fact  to  face  with  nature,  whence  they 
are  insjjired  to  look  up  to  nature's  Clod. 

It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  the  Park  as 
well  as  the  Islands  jiartake  of  an  international 
character  to  a  great  extent,  and  the  Union 
Jack  lloats  in  close  i)roximity  to  our  own  be- 
loved Stars  and  Stripes,  and  that  i)rayers 
ascend  for  the  noble  Queen  from  the  same 
desk  as  the  petition  for  our  honored  Presi- 
dent. 

The  population  of  Thousand  Island  Park  is 
somewhat  of  a  floating  one,  as  regards  its  per- 
manence, but  there  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  its 
pre-eminent  respectability.  It  numbers  800 
to  6,000  souls.  Indeed  the  only  occasion  for 
fear  in  these  established  popular  resorts  is 
that  they  may  become  exclusively  the  sum- 
mer abodes  of  the  rich  alone.  At  this  placi , 
however,  there  are  ample  accommodations 
for  people  of  every  class  in  point  of  material 
wealth,  the  hotel  charges  being  $3.00  per  day 
for  the  best,  $1.00  per  day  for  a  cheaper  but 
really  comfortable  place,  and  board  in  private 
cottages  at  even  less  rates.  It  is  pre-emin- 
ently a  democratic  place,  and  friendliness  is 
cultivated  as  not  an  altogether  obsolete  senti- 
ment. The  trustees  and  officers  are  capable 
men,  composed  of  persons  who  have  made  their 
way  from  small  beginnings  and  have  ah  ys 
been  in  sympathy  with  plain  and  home-like 
methods.  The  cottages  are  numerous,  all  of 
them  attractive,  some  beautiful.  We  give 
views  of  a  few  of  the  plain  cottages  as  well  as 
of  some  of  the  more  elegant  structures.  A 
traveler  upon  any  of  the  steamers  which 
thread  their  way  among  the  islands  will  ob- 
serve that  more  people  get  on  and  off  at 
Thousand  Island  Park  than  all  the  other 
resorts  put  together.  The  plotted  ground  for 
cottages  occupies  about  100  acres.  The 
Association  has  sold  off  200  acres  for  farming, 
and  about  700  acres  are  left,  devoted  to 
dairying. 

The  pumping  engines  of  the  Association, 
their    system  of  sewerage,  water  supply  and 


electric  lights  are  superior  and  unexcelled. 
Their  dynamo  plant  and  the  beautiful  ma- 
chinery there  (of  the  Watertown  Steam  \\x\- 
gine  Company)  are  models  of  mechanical  skill. 

It  would  be,  perhaps,  an  indication  of  neg- 
ligence were  we  to  fail  in  giving  especial 
notice  to  tlie  very  large  and  wholly  first-class 
hotel  erected  by  tiie  .\ssociation  to  take  tiie 
place  of  the  building  destroyed  by  fire  several 
years  since.  The  new  hotel  is  in  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  cross,  enabling  every  room  in  the 
house  to  have  an  outward  look,  the  larger 
p.irt  facing  the  noble  river.  The  rooms  are 
all  en  suite,  enabling  them  to  be  used  singly  or 
double;  the  ceilings  are  high;  the  furniture 
ill  keeping  with  the  buildmg.  The  closets 
and  bath-rooms  are  of  modern  construction 
and  appointment  ;  the  lights  all  electric  —  not 
a  lamp  being  used  in  the  whole  building. 
The  reception  room  and  office,  as  well  as  the 
large  ladies'  parlor,  and  the  commodious 
dining-room  have  each  the  patent  steel  ceil- 
ings admitting  of  fine  effects  in  fresco  and 
painting,  as  well  as  immunity  from  fire. 

Taking  into  consideration  its  size,  the  out- 
ward view  from  every  room,  the  purity  of  the 
water  used,  the  separation  of  the  kitchen  from 
the  hotel  proper,  the  perfect  system  of  sew- 
age, and  the  desirability  of  location,  it  may  be 
said  that  the  Columbian  is  the  finest  hotel 
upon  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Montreal  To 
this  may  be  added  its  almost  perfect  safety 
from  accident  by  fire. 

The  trustees  felt  that  they  were  to  a  certain 
extent  building  for  the  future  by  authorizing 
so  extensive  a  structure,  but  as  the  Park  in- 
creases in  importance  every  year,  it  is  plainly 
seen  that  they  acted  wisely  in  erecting  an 
hotel  that  would  add  to  the  character  of  the 
Park,  where  so  many  city  people  crowd  during 
the  heat  of  summer,  and  demand  the  best  of 
everything. 

There  are  other  hotels  and  boarding  places 
at  the  Park,  but  not  owned  by  the  Association. 
Mr.  Billings,  on  Garden  avenue,  has  five  neat 
cottages  where  he  accommodates  very  many 
people  each  summer,  and  his  customers 
usually  come  again,  for  he  is  a  very  pleasant 
gentleman 


\ 

v 

unexcelled. 

eautiful  m;i- 

Steam   Kn- 

' 

lianical  skill. 

itioii  of  neg- 

ing   especial 

lly  first-class 

to  take  the 

y  fire  several 

n    the   shape 

room  in  tlic 

,   tiie  larj^ir 

e  rooms  arc 

sed  singly  or 

le   furniture 

The   closets 

construction 

ectric  —  not 

le   building. 

s  well  as  the 

commodious 

, 

t   steel  ceil- 

fresco  and 

11  fire. 

lize,  the  out- 

purity  of  the 

kitchen  from 

■1 

item  of  sew- 

% 

m,  it  may  be 

i 

finest   hotel 

I 

jntreal      To 

.'^ 

srfect  safety 

k 

to  a  certain 

J 

authorizinji 

'■^'. 

he   Park  in- 

H. 

it  is  plainly 

1 

erecting   an 

■.^ 

acter  of  the 

rowd  during 

*h 

the  best  of 

I 

'"I 

rding  places 

^ 

Association. 

las  five  neat 

very  many 

customers 

■■' 

ery  pleasant 

i 

THE  NED  CROSS. 


AN    INTERNATIONAL    PARK. 


51 


/^FHE  popular  scheme  of  establishing  an  in- 
^^  ternational  park,  embracing  the  Thous- 
and islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  which 
was  discussed  at  length  last  year  by  American 
and  Canadian  authorities,  seems  almost  cer- 
tain of  early  fulfillment.  A  meeting  was  held 
at  Ottawa  in  February,  189^),  to  promote  the 
enterprise,  and  both  the  American  and  Cana- 
dian representatives  present  manifested  much 
enthusiasm.  The  coniuiittee  of  Americans 
appointed  to  confer  with  the  Canadian  au- 
thorities, consisted  of  Hon  Elon  R.  I!r.)wn  of 
Watertown,  chairman  ;  Henry  R.  Heath  of 
Brooklyn,  and  R.  1).  Grant  of  ("layton.  They 
were  met  at  Ottawa,  by  Hon  Cieorge  Taylor, 
M.  P.,  for  Canada ;  Hon.  John  Costigan, 
minister  of  marine  and  fisheries;  Hon.  Hor- 
ton  Reed,  minister  of  Indian  a.Tairs;  and  Sir 
Charles  Tupper,  acting  minister  of  tiie  in- 
terior. The  conference  was  held  in  Mr. 
Costigan's  office. 

As  a  result  of  this  conference  an  agreement 
was  made  to  make  the  opening  and  closure 
laws  of  both  countries  uniform,  the  ■  !osed 
season  to  extend  from  January  i,  to  June  9. 
Netting  is  to  be  totally  prohibited  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  The  policing  of  the  river 
is  to  be  in  tmiform,  the  guards  of  both  sides 
co-operating  in  all  waters  of  the  river. 


The  territory  covered  by  the  agreement  ex- 
tends from  Ogdenst)urg  on  the  .American  side 
and  Prescott,  on  the  Canadian  side,  to  points 
four  miles  above  Cape  Vincent  and  Kingston. 
The  Canadian  government  is  to  set  aside  cer- 
tain islands  for  jjublic  ])arks,  where  those  who 
do  not  own  property  on  the  river  can  pitch 
their  cani|)s.  Similar  parks  are  expected  to 
be  established  on  tiie  American  side. 

The  government  of  this  great  international 
park  is  to  be  vested  in  an  international  com- 
mission and  is  to  be  carried  on  after  the  plan 
adopted  for  the  international  park  at  Niagara 
Falls.  The  commissioners  named  on  the 
l)art  of  New  York  State  are  Klon  R.  Hrown, 
Henry  R.  Heath  and  President  Mead,  of  the 
forest  commission. 

The  thousands  of  people  who  annually  find 
recreation  and  pleasure  at  the  great  watering 
place*-  on  the  St,  Lawrence  will  heartily  ap- 
prove of  this  plan  to  preserve  for  the  whole 
people  the  beauties  of  the  river.  It  is  a  plan 
that  has  been  contemplated  and  one  that  will 
benefit  those  whose  homes  are  in  the  St. 
Lawrence  region  even  more  than  summer 
visitors,  for  the  food  fishes  will  be  protected 
from  wholesale  slaughter  and  eventual  extermi- 
nation, and  thus  all  classes  of  our  people  will 
be  benefited. 


THE    RED    CROSS. 


jRVESIDENTS  and  voyageurs  upon  the  St. 
rK.  Lawrence,  when  nearly  opposite  Alex- 
andria Bay,  have  noticed  upon  the  western 
bank  of  the  river,  above  the  fine  residence  of 
Mr.  Browning  and  just  adjoining  the  summer 
residence  of  Rev.  Mr.  Pullman  (whose  son  is 
Miss  Barton's  financial  and  active  secretary), 
a  red  cross  emblazoned  upon  a  white  flag. 
That  has  been  for  two  seasons  past  the  sum- 
mer home  of  Miss  Clara  Barton,  the  President 
of  what  is  known  as  the  Red  Cross  in  America. 
We  have  been  permitted  to  make  extracts 
from  an  address  made  by  Miss  Barton  in  1888, 


and  by  her  delineation  the  reader  will  be  able 
to  get  a  fair  idea  of  the  Red  Cross  organiza- 
tion. For  a  fair  representation  of  this  won- 
derful woman  we  refer  the  reader  to  her  por- 
trait given  in  connection  with  a  sketch  of  her 
life  in  another  place  in  this  volume.  [.See 
page  230.] 

We  give,  in  brief,  much  that  she  said  at 
Washington  before  the  International  Council 
of  Women  in  1 888. 

The  organization  of  the  Red  Cross  is  the  result  of 
an  international  treaty  known  among  nations  as  the 
"  Treaty  of  Geneva,"  and   has   for   its   object    the 


52 


.-/    SOUlh.X/R   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE   RIVER. 


arm-lioration  of  the  conditions  of  ilial  c  ass  of  per- 
sons wliu,  in  accordance  witli  the  customs  of  mati- 
kind  from  the  earliest  history  to  the  present,  have 
been  called  to  niaiiilain  tlic  houndaiicK  of  nations, 
and  even  national  existence  itself,  liy  liunian  warfare. 

Whether  well  or  ill,  needful  or  needless,  tli.it  na- 
tions and  boundaries  he  so  |)reserved,  is  not  a  (|ues. 
tion  for  luc  here  to  consider.  That  ihey  have  been, 
and  niaitdy  are  so  preserved,  that  no  better  method 
is  yet  consummated,  and  tliat,  in  the  piofjress  of 
humanity,  the  existing  couniries  of  the  civili/ed 
world  li.ive  seen  (it  to  enter  into  an  international 
treaty  for  liie  l)etternient  of  the  conditions  of  those 
subjects  or  citizens,  who,  by  their  laws,  are  called  to 
the  performance  of  this  dutv,  are  facts  which  I  am 
here  to  sta*-.  'I'liis  international  treaty  of  1864  com- 
mences with  tiie  ncutraliziMg  of  ail  parties  in  their 
efToris  at  relief.  It  brinns  to  the  aid  of  the  medical 
and  hospital  departments  of  armies  the  direct,  or- 
ganized and  protected  help  of  the  people.  It  goes 
through  the  entire  catagory  of  military  medical 
rii;inii\  as  practiced  up  toils  date;  makes  war  upon 
and  plucks  out  its  old-time  barbarities,  its  needless 
restrictions  atid  cruelties,  and,  (iiially,  in  efTect,  ends 
by  teaching  war  to  make  war  upon  itself. 

By  its  international  code  all  military  hospitals  un- 
der its  tl.ig  become  neutral,  antl  can  be  neither  at- 
tacked nor  captured.  All  sick  and  wounded  within 
them  remain  unmolested.  Surgeons,  nurses,  chap- 
lains, attendants  and  all  non-combatants  on  a  field, 
wearing  the  accredited  insignia  of  the  Red  Cross, 
are  protected  from  capture.  '  Hadly  wounded 
prisoners  lying  upon  a  captured  Held  are  delivered 
up  to  their  own  army  if  desired.  All  supplies  de- 
signed for  the  use  of  the  sick  or  wounded  of  either 
army,  and  bearing  the  sign  of  the  Red  Cross,  are 
protected  and  lield  sacred  to  their  use.  All  convoys 
of  wounded  or  prisoners  in  exchange  are  safely  pro- 
tected in  transit  and,  if  attacked  from  ambusli  or 
otherwise  harmed,  an  international  treaty  is  broken. 
All  persons  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  a  battle  about 
to  take  place  shall  be  notified  by  the  generals  com- 
manding both  armies,  and  full  protection,  with  a 
guard,  assured  each  house  which  shall  open  its  doors 
to  the  care  of  the  wounded  from  either  army;  thus 
each  house  becomes  a  furnished  field-hospital  and 
its  inmates  nurses. 

Each  nation,  upon  its  accession  to  the  treaty, 
establishes  a  national  society,  or  committee,  through 
which  it  will  act  internationally  in  its  various  re- 
lations. 

This  body  corporate  adopts  a  constitution,  in  the 
formation  of  which  it  seeks  the  best  methods  for 
serving  humanity  in  general,  together  with  the  in- 
terests of  its  own  people,  in  the  direction  of  its  legi- 
timate efforts. 

The  formers  of  the  National  Constitution  of  the 
Red  Cross  of  America  foresaw  that  the  great  woes 


of  its  people  would  not  be  confined  to  human  war- 
fare; that  the  elements  raging,  unchained,  woull 
wage  us  wars  and  face  us  in  b.ittles;  that  as  out  va>t 
territory  bec.imc  populated,  and  people,  in  the  place 
of  prairies  and  forests,  should  lie  in  their  track, 
these  natural  agents  might  prove  scarcely  less  de- 
structive ami  more  relentless  than  human  enemies; 
th.it  fire,  ilinxl,  famine,  pestilence,  drouth,  earth- 
((uake  and  tornado  would  call  for  the  prompt  help 
of  tlu-  people  no  less  than  war,  and  while  organizing 
for  the  latter  they  also  included  the  former. 

It  remains  to  name  some  of  the  things  accom- 
plished and  the  changes  which  have  taken  place  in 
consecjuencc  of  this  treaty  during  its  life  of  a  short 
quarter  of  a  century,  and  up  to  i8S3. 

Previous  to  the  war  of  the  Crimea  civil  help  for 
military  necessities  was  unknown.  PMorence  Night- 
ingale trod  a  pathless  field.  In  the  wars  which  fol- 
lowed, till  1S66,  even  this  example  was  not  heeded, 
and  the  wars  of  Napoleon  III.  in  .Notthern  Italy 
were  types  of  military  cruelty,  medical  in-^udiciency, 
and  needless  sulFering  which  shocked  the  world. 
(Jut  of  the  smouldering  ashes  of  these  memories 
rose  the  clear,  si-  ady  tiaiiie  of  the  Red  Cross;  so 
bright  and  beautiful  that  it  ilrcw  the  ga/.e  of  all  man- 
kind; so  bro:wl  that  it  reached  the  f.irthest  bound  of 
the  horizon;  so  peaceful,  wise,  h.irmWss  and  frater- 
nal that  all  nations  and  sect',  the  Cnristian  and  the 
Jew,  the  Protestant  and  the  Catholic,  the  soldier  and 
the  philanthropist,  the  war- maker  and  the  peace- 
maker, could  meet  in  its  softened  r.ays.  and,  bv  its 
calm,  holy  light,  reveal  to  each  other  their  dilTicul- 
ties,  compare  their  views,  stud)'  methods  of  human- 
ity, antl,  from  time  to  time,  learn  fr  mi  and  teach  to 
each  other,  things  bt  iter  than  t'ley  had  known. 

Our  own  terrible  w.ir  which  treed  4,000.000  slaves 
and  gave  to  us  the  "  Matile  I  lymn  of  the  Repulilic  " 
had  no  ray  of  this  fraternal  liuht.  VVe  "read  the 
righteous  sentence  by  iliai  an  I  llarin'.;  lamps."  and 
in  darkness  and  inhumanity,  sorrow  and  doubt  "  our 
souls  went  marching  on." 

But  the  great  Commissions  ro?e  and  perfo  nied  a 
work  of  relief  hitherto  unknown,  yet  from  lack  of 
military  recognition  their  best  efforts  comparatively 
failed  ;  and  from  lack  of  permanent  organization 
their  future  p  ^ssibilities  were  lost  to  the  world. 

With  the  Franco  German  war  of  '70-'7i  com- 
menced the  opportunities  for  the  pnotical  ■  ''ca- 
tion of  the  principles  of  th<  real  Both  nations 
were   in   compact.     Ther-  ct   accord  be- 

tween the  military  and  the  iss  Relief.     T'    -i" 

was  neither  medical  nor  h  i  il  work  save  thrui.gh 
and  under  the  treaty  of  (jc  1.  T'  Red  Cross 
brassard  flashed  on  the  arm  of  every  igent  of  relief, 
from  the  medical  director  at  the  headquarters  of  the 
king  to  the  little  biy  carrying  water  to  his  wounded 
lieutenant ;  from  the  noble  Empress  Augusta  and 
her  court,  and  poor  Eugenie,  while  she  had  one,  to 


^ 


THE  ri:d  cross. 


53 


I  liuman  war- 
.lined,  woiil'l 
lat  as  our  van 
•,  ill  tlie  place 
tlicir  track, 
ceiy  less  dc- 
inan  enemlo; 
Iroiitl),  card) 
prompt  liL'l;> 
ilc  organizing 
nicr. 

Iiings  accotn- 
akcn  place  in 
Ife  of  a  short 

rivil  help  for 

)rence  Night- 

;irs  which  fol- 

s  not  heeded, 

lonhern  Italy 

insufficiency, 

J   the   world. 

se    memories 

cd    Cross;  so 

<e  of  all  man- 

icst  hound  of 

<s  and  fraicr- 

stian  and  the 

c  soldier  and 

!   the   pcace- 

.  and,  hv  its 

their  diHiciil- 

Is  of  human- 

and  teach  tu 

nown. 

oo.ooo  slaves 

Republic  " 

e   "  read  the 

iin|)s."  ami 

doubt  "  our 

perfo  med  a 
from  lack  of 
amparatively 
organization 
world. 
7o-'7i  com- 
ical Mp'ica- 
Bolh  ii.itiDns 

accord  be- 
liet.  T'  e 
ave  thrin.^h 

l\.ed  Cross 
ent  of  relief, 
rters  of  the 
lis  wounded 
Augusta  and 

had  one,  to 


the  patient,  tired  nurse  In  the  lowliest  hospital  or 
tent  tiy  the  wayside. 

No  record  of  needless  inhumanity  or  cruelly  to 
wounded  or  sick,  stains  the  .iiinaN  of  that  war. 

I  walked  its  hospitals  dav  and  night.  I  served  in 
its  camps,  and  1  niarch'j  with  its  men.  and  1  know 
whcri'of  I  speak.  l  he  German,  the  Frenchman, 
ilitr  It.dian,  the  Arab,  tlie  Turko,  and  the  /oiiavc 
were  g.ithered  tenderly  alike,  and  lay  side  by  side  in 
the  Red  Cross  palace  hospitals  of  (iermany.  The 
royal  women,  who  to  day  niourr,  their  own  dead, 
mourned  then  the  dead   of   friend    and  foe. 

Since  that  day  no  war  beiweeii  nations  within  the 
treaty  has  taken  place  in  which  the  Red  Cross  did 
not  stand  at  its  post,  at  the  field,  and  the  generous 
gifts  of  neutral  n.uions  li  ive  tilled  its  hands. 

The  treaty  has  broutflit  tlf:  war-making  powers  to 
know  each  other.  Four  times  it  has  called  the 
heads  of  thirty  to  forty  nations  to  meet  thiough 
appointed  delegates,  and  confer  upon  national  neu- 
trality and  relief  in  war.  It  his  created  and  estab- 
lished one  common  sign  for  all  military  medical 
relief  the  world  over,  and  m.uie  all  under  that  sign 
safe  and  sacred.  It  has  established  one  military 
hospital  flag  for  all  nations.  It  has  given  to  the  peo- 
ple the  reco^ni/.ed  right  to  reach  and  succor  their 
wounded  on  the  field.  It  has  rendered  impossible 
any  insulTicioncy  of  sui)plies.  either  medical  or 
nutritive,  for  wounded  or  prisoners  which  human 
sviiipathy  and  power  can  reach.  It  has  given  the 
best  inventions  known  to  science  for  the  proper 
handling  of  mutilated  persons,  whether  soldiers  or 
civilians.  The  most  approved  portable  hospitals  in 
the  world  are  of  the  Red  Cross.  It  has  frowned 
upon  all  old  time  modes  of  cruelty  in  destructive 
warfare;  poisoned  and  explosive  bullets  are  no 
longer  popular.  Antiseptic  dressings  and  electric 
light  at  battlefields  are  established  facts,  and  the  am- 
bulance and  stretcher-bearers  move  in  the  rear  ranks 
of  every  army.  These  isolated  facts  are  only  the 
mountain  peaks  which  I  point  out  to  you.  The 
great  /Vlpinc  range  of  humanity  and  activity  below 
can  not  be  shown  in  fifteen  minutes. 

So  much  for  human  warfare  and  the  legitimate  dis- 
pens.ition  of  the  treaty. 

The  public,  in  general,  to  a  large  extent  is  com- 
ing to  the  use  of  the  Red  Cross  as  a  medium  of 
conveyance  and  disiributlon  for  its  contributions. 
The  National  Association,  with  its  headquarters  at 
Washington,  has  a  field-agent,  who  visits,  in  person, 
every  scene  where  aid  is  rendered.  Coinmencing 
with  the  "  forest  fires"  of  Michigan  in  i88i,  there 
has  fallen  to  its  hands  a  share  of  the  relief-work  in 
the  overflow  of  the  Mississippi  river  in  1882;  of  the 
O!  1  in  1883;  of  the  Mississippi  cyclone  the  same 
yc.ir ;  the  overflow  of  both  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
in  1884;  the  representation  of  the  United  States 
Government    at    the    International    Conference    of 


Geneva,  Switzerland,  in  1S34;  the  exhibition  of 
"woman's  woik"in  the  Red  Cross,  both  foreign 
and  American,  at  the  Exposition  at  New  Orleans  in 
1HS5;  the  drouth  in  Teitas  in  \i%U\  the  (-harleston 
earllniu.ike  in  iSSf);  the  representation  of  the  United 
Stales  Government  again  at  the  court  of  their  Royal 
Ilit;liness,  the  Grand  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Maden, 
at  ("arlsiulie,  (ierinany,  In  1S87,  and  the  relief  of  the 
sullerers  from  the  Mt.  \'eriu)n   cyclone,  18S8.* 

In  further  explanation  we  may  say  that  the 
Red  Ooss  was  chosen  out  of  conipiiinent  to 
the  .Swiss  l\.e|jiil)lic,  wliere  the  first  convention  ^ 
was  held,  and  in  wliicii  the  (Central  Commis- 
sion has  its  he.adiiuarters.  The  Swiss  colors 
being  a  wliite  cross  on  a  red  ground,  the  badge 
chosen  was  these  colors  reversed.  There  are 
no  "  members  of  the  Red  Cross,"  but  only 
members  of  societies  whose  sign  it  is.  There 
is  no  "Order  of  the  Red  Cross."  The  relief 
societies  use,  eacii  according  to  its  conven- 
ience, whatever  methods  seem  best  suited  to 
prepare  in  times  of  peace  for  the  necessities 
of  sanitary  .service  in  times  of  war.  They 
gather  and  store  gifts  of  money  and  supplies, 
arrange  hospitals,  ambulances,  methods  of 
transportation  of  wounded  men,  bureaus  of 
information,  correspondence,  etc.  All  that 
the  most  ingenious  i)hilanthroi)y  could  devise 
and  execute  has  been  attempted  in  this  direc- 
tion. Tills  society  had  its  inception  in  the 
mind  of  Monsieur  Henri  Danant,  a  Swiss 
gentleman,  who  was  ably  seconded  in  his 
views  by  Monsieur  Gustave  Moynier  and  Dr. 
Louis  Appia,  of  Geneva. 

The  movements  of  Miss  Barton,  since  her 
efforts  to  benefit  the  Armenians,  has  been  fol- 


*The  last  five  years  have  added  to  the  relief  and 
labors  of  the  above  list.  The  yellow  fever  epidemic 
of  Flofida  in  iSSS;  the  Johnstown  disaster  in  1889; 
the  Russian  famine  in  1891-92;  the  Fifth  Inter- 
national Conference  at  Rome,  1892.  and  the  hurri- 
cane and  tidal  wave  of  the  South  Carolina  sea-island 
coast  of  1S93-94. 

In  the  overflow  of  the  rivers  in  18S4  the  Govern- 
ment appropriated  $150,000  for  distribution  through 
the  war  department  and  magnificently  and  faithfully 
was  that  distribution  made  ;  an  honor  to  any  nation. 

The  Red  Cross,  with  no  appropriation  and  no 
treasury,  received  from  the  public,  and  personally 
distributed  in  the  space  of  four  months,  money  and 
material  at  the  moderately  estimated  value  of  $175,- 
000  ;  an  honor  to  any  people. 


1 

I. 


54 


A  sorvExrR  of  the  st.  Lawrence  river. 


lowed  by  the  whole  civilized  world  with  the 
nio>.t  eager  iiitercsi.  'I'hi;  annexed  news- 
jjaper  extract  will  l)e  read  with  genuitie  satis- 
faction: 

PERMISSION  GRANTED 

Miss    Ci  ara  Baiiton  and    Ukr  Assistanps  Will 
111'.    Ai.i.owr.i)    lo    DisTKiiuit    Rki.iki-     lo     riiK 

SUKIKH.'.Ni;    Al.Ml'.NI  \NS. 

W\sHfNiiTON,  Feb.  iS,  i8q6. —  A  dispalcli  received 
at  llie  Si.itc  Ocpartiiifiit  this  afternoon  from  Mr. 
Alex.  '»V.  Terreil.  United  States  Minister  to  Turkey, 
dated  at  V'era.  liie  luiropean  fiu..rter  of  Cor.stanti- 
nop'e,  coniaineil  the  intelligence  liiat  the  eirorts  of 


Miss  Clara  Harton,  president  of  the  American 
Na;ional  Red  Cross  society,  to  obtain  tiic  permission 
of  the  Turkisii  government  to  distribute  relief  to  the 
sulFering  Armenians  lias  been  successful.  Thedc 
cision  of  the  Sublime  Pone  not  to  allow  reliif 
measures  to  be  extended  by  tlie  Red  Cross  as  an  or 
ganization,  or  by  its  ollicers  as  such,  made  it  doubt- 
ful whether  Miss  Harton  and  her  party  would  sue 
ceed  in  their  object.  It  appears  from  Mr.  Terrell's 
dispatch  that  Miss  Harton  liatl  been  presented  by 
the  minister  lo  the  Porte,  and  had  received  renewtd 
assurance  of  full  protection,  and  aid  for  her  a^jcnis 
in  dispensing  charity.  Her  assistants,  says  Mr. 
Terrell,  go  at  once  to  the  interior.  Miss  Harton's 
licadcjuarters  will  be  at  Pcra, 


CAPTAIN    SIMON 

It  is  fortunate  for  the  historian  of  the  St. 
Laxsrcnce  Archipelago  that  there  are  yet  a 
few  men  living  wiio  liave  been  connected 
with  that  btc  lion  from  the  time  long  before 
any  attempt  was  made  to  improve  it.  One  of 
the  best  known,  most  intelligent  and  compan- 
ionable of  these  is  Capt.  Simon  Joiinston. 
We  have  importuned  him  until  lie  has  been 
prevailed  upon  to  prepare  a  sketcii  of  his  life, 
wiiicii  has  been  a  long  and  active  one,  as  he 
was  born  in  1821,  being  two  years  older  liian 
the  autlior  of  thij  book.  We  tiiink  it  best  to 
tell  ills  story  as  'twas  told  lo  us.  (For  his 
portrait  see  plates  of  vessel  captains.) 

When  a  boy  of  nine  years,  in  the  year  1S30,  I  left 
Ogdtnsburg,  with  my  mother,  for  Sackct's  Harbor. 
In  tiiose  days  steamboats  were  slow  ;uid  the  fares 
high,  so  my  mother,  with  her  four  children,  look 
pas.^age  on  a  vessel  called  the  "  Phoeni.x  "  Sucli  sail- 
ing vessels  or"  p.ickeis,"  as  they  were  then  called, 
were  lilted  up  with  accommod.ilioiis  for  passengeis. 
Wi;  left  with  a  fair  wind,  and  all  weni  well  till  we 
r  iclied  Gravelly  Poi;.t,  now  Cape  X'Incent,  when 
we  wi  re  headed  oil",  the  wind  coming ilown  the  Lake. 
The  captain  up  helm  and  ran  back  to  Hinckley's 
Flats,  where  we  came  to  anchor.  During  the  storm 
the  vessel  dragged  anchor  and  went  ashore  on  the 
head  of  Carlton  Island.  The  mate  got  a  long  plauk 
lo  reach  tlu  shore,  and  we  all  landed.  Here  we  had 
to  stay  about  three  weeks  before  getting  ofT,  but 
finally  reached  Sacket's  Harbor  all  right.  .At  this 
lime  both  binks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river  were  in  a 
state  of  utter  wilderness,  with  scarcely  an  inhabi- 
tant. 

My  father  ran  the  first  saw  mill,  one  now  built  at 


C.  JOHNSTON. 

5,acket's  Harbor,  owned  by  Col.  Elisha  Camp.  This 
was  about  the  time  the  colonel  got  a  canal  throu;;li 
from  HI  ick  River.  Here  were  also  built  two  saw 
mills,  one  grist  mill,  one  p.iper  mill,  one  plasu  1 
mill,  and  a  funace.  Hut  the  canal,  not  paying,  was 
eventually  abandoned. 

One  would  lai'gli  now  at  such  steamboats  as  the\ 
had  then,  especially  at  the  boilers  and  engines 
They  buriitd  wood  for  fuel,  and  when  they  cauic 
into  port,  instead  of  closing  a  dain[)er  as  they  now 
do.  the  half-burned  wood  was  pulled  out  of  the  fiie 
chamber  and  thrown  overboard,  to  keep  down  steaii 
T'lien  when  they  were  ready  to  leave  port  a  fresh  hit 
was  built.  A  bo;'t  like  this,  afterwards  used  on  ll  e 
river,  was  built  at  Hrownville,  N.  Y.,  and  passi  d 
through  a  lock  at  Fish  1.  l.ind  (now  De.xter).  Slu- 
was  burned  to  the  water's  edge  the  first  trip  ;  wa^ 
bought  by  D.miel  Grilfin  of  Sacket's  Harbor,  hauhd 
out,  lengthened  and  rebuilt,  and  called  the  "  Willi. 1111 
Avery."  I  was  on  board  on  her  trial  trip  to  Hiii- 
derson  Harbor,  which  was  in  1S34  or '35.  The 
steamer  "Charles  Carroll"  was  built  at  Sacket's 
Harbor  about  this  lime. 

In  1839  I  went  to  Kingston,  Dntario,  and  sl.ippi  ! 
as  horse-boy  on  the  schooner  "  lirittania,"  Capl. 
.Mex.  Miier,  inC.ilvin,  Cook  ^'t  Counter's  employ  ai 
Garden  Island,  Ontario.  In  1840  I  v/as  deck  haul 
on  the  steamer  "  Telegraph."  She  ran  between  Og- 
densburg  and  Oswego.  At  this  time  there  were  ni 
lighthouses  between  Ogdensburg  and  C'ape  Vince.il. 
They  ran  day  and  night,  by  ranges  from  point  10 
point  or  from  island  to  island. 

In  1S41  I  was  made  wheelsman  on  the  "Tele 
graph."  under  Capl.  Geo.  Mason,  and  we  ran  In - 
tween  Ogdensburg  and  Oswego,  stopping  at  Munis 
town,  Hrockville,  Alexandria  Hay,  French  Creek 
(now  Clavtoni.  Kingston,  and  Racket's  Harboi. 
Kingston  was   the   only  market   for   surplus   hogs. 


s 


J 


CAPTAIN  SIMON  G.  JOHN  STOW. 


55 


sheep,  cattle,  fish,  butter,  etc.  Sometimes  we  would 
have  a  full  load  of  sheep  and  calves,  and  the  Kanucks 
would  say,  "There  comes  the  Yankee  Hand,"  when 
they  heard  the  calves  bleat. 

In  1842  I  went  with  the  late  Capt.  Thos.  Collins 
to  learn  ship-building.  H»;  bulk  vessels  in  the  win- 
ter and  sailed  tlicm  in  the  Hummci.  He  built  the 
first  propeller  that  ran  the  rapids.  She  was  named 
the  "  Precursor,"  and  was  launched  in  1S4',!.  He 
sailcii  her  in  1S43,  and  that  year  I  was  with  him  as 
mate.  Our  run  was  between  Montreal  and  Toronto. 
We  went  down  the  St.  Lawrence  through  all  the 
rapids  to  Montreal.  There  was  no  canal  then  except 
the  Lachine.  We  came  up  through  that,  ther.  up 
the  Ottawa  and  Ridcau  to  Kingston,  then  up  Lake 
Ontario  to  Toronto.  We  made  nine  trips  that  season, 
running  all  the  rapids,  and  had  some  close  shaves  to 
clear  rock  and  shoal.  The  first  thing  the  Indian 
pilot  would  flo,  just  l)efo:e  entering  the  rapids, 
would  be  to  drop  on  his  knees,  say  his  pr.ivers, 
count  his  heads,  cross  himself,  and  then  take  the 
tiller,  while  he  kept  his  eyes  peeled  for  the  breakers. 
Just  as  soon  as  wc  were  tli'ough  them  he  would  dive 
for  the  cabin  for  something  10  eat.  What  a  change 
from  these  days  to  what  it  was  then.  (Sec  article  on 
"How  the  Indians  Learned  the  Rapids.") 

In  1S44  I  was  .It  Rice  Lake.  Ontario,  building  a 
small  vessel  to  run  on  that  lake.  In  1345  was  at 
Portsmouth,  Ontario,  working  on  the  first  vessel 
that  went  to  England  via  the  St.  Lawrence  river. 
She  was  called  "The  Lily,"  and  was  about  400  tons. 
In  1S46  I  built  the  schooner  Odd  Fellow  and  sailed 
her  as  master,  trading  between  Ficton  and  Jones 
Creek,  Ontario. 

From  1S48  to  1S50  I  was  in  the  employ  of  Calvin 
&  Hreck,  at  (iarden  Island.  I  sailed  the  schooner 
"  Dexter  Calvin"  for  them  in  1S50.  Made  one  trip 
with  her  to  Ouebec  in  the  fall,  running  all  the  rapids 
except  the  Lachine.  We  were  in  tow  of  a  tug,  and 
the  strain  on  the  hawser  at  times,  when  in  the  rap- 
ids, would  make  one's  eyes  stick  out.  for  it  seemed 
that  we  might  strike  some  island  er  rork  any  mo- 
ment while  running  them. 

I  left  '".arden  Island  in  January  for  Hamilton,  On- 
tario, to  put  timber  ports  in  a  vessel  named  "  Hritisli 
yucen."  for  Jno.  McPherson  of  the  firm  of  McPher- 
son.  Cram  it  ("o.,  of  Kingsion. 

In  .April,  1851,  I  went  to  Lrie,  Pa.,  to  put  timber 
ports  in  a  vessel  called  the  "  Baltic."  From  there  I 
went  back  to  Carden  Island  and  built  tiie  yacht 
"  J.inct  ;"  this  boat  40  feet  keel,  12  feet  be.im,  and  0 
feet  in  the  hold.  She  had  about  seven  tons  of  bal- 
last in  hei.  She  left  Kingston  with  a  party  of  45 
men  and  women  on  board,  bound  for  Clayton  ;  ihey 
slopped  at  the  foot  of  Wolf  Island  and  had  dinner, 
then  started  for  Clayton;  but  when  they  got  over  into 
the  American  channel  a  white  squall  struck  the 
yacht,  which  knocked  her  on  her  beam's  end,  filled 


the  cock-pit  with  water,  and  threw  most  of  the  wo- 
mcTi  into  the  mainsail  —  Capt.  Hiram  Hitchcock  w:iti 
master,  and  he  called  out  to  "  let  go  the  jib  sheet,  ' 
but  some  one  let  go  the  main  sheet  instead.  This  ht 
the  main  boom  drag,  and  kept  her  on  her  side.  As 
the  eock-pit  was  water-tight,  they  thought  she  would 
right  up  as  soon  as  the  squall  was  over;  but  son  e 
one  had  previously  taken  out  the  valve  to  pump  Ik  r 
out,  and  iiad  neglected  to  put  it  back  ;  so  she  fillid 
slowly  and  sunk  in  40  feet  of  water.  There  weie 
K)  drowned,  17  women  and  two  men,  all  from  King- 
ston.    Many  of  them  I  knew. 

Some  thought  that  the  yacht  was  to  blame  because 
improperly  built,  but  they  changed  their  minds, 
when  they  afterwards  saw  her  working  up  the  river  in 
a  gale  of  wind.  She  went  from  Clayton  to  Kings, 
ton,  when  it  blew  so  hard  that  the  "Ontario,"  Capt. 
Throop.  would  not  land  there. 

When  this  happened  I  was  building  a  steamboat  at 
Keene,  Ont.,  for  Short,  Kemp  &  Co..  to  run  from 
Pctersboro  to  Creek's  Rapids,  through  Rice  Lake. 
She  was  called  the  "  Otonobe." 

In  February,  1852,  I  came  to  Clayton  to  work  as 
foreman  for  J:io.  Oad2S.  He  was  doing  all  Fowler 
&  Esselstyn's  work.  He  built  for  them  the  steamers 
"W'agara,"  "Cataract,"  "Ontario,"  "Uritish  Queen." 
"British  Empire."  "  B.ay  State"  and  "  New  York." 
He  al  o  built  quite  a  number  of  sailing  vessels.  I 
was  with  him  two  years,  and  then  started  business 
for  myself  in  Clayion.  I  first  buiit  the  '"Gray 
Hound."  and  sailed  her  in  1854,  runnmg  between 
Ogdensburg  and  Oswego.  She  was  a  fast  sailer, 
making  a  round  trip  a  week,  for  eleven  weeks,  and 
bringing  us  home  every  Sunday.  I  learned  more  of 
the  navigation  of  the  river  in  this  vessel  than  I  diil 
in  all  others.' 

The  7th  if  September.  1S54,  I  was  married  to 
Emmeline  II.  Oades,  youngest  sister  of  John  Oades, 
she  being  twenty-four  and  I  thirty-one  years  old. 
On  the  iltli  of  September,  or  four  days  later,  I  left 
for  Colburn,  Ont.,  to  build  two  vessels  for  J.  M. 
("■rover,  one  of  which  was  called  "Mary  Grover,"  and 
the  other  ".Mice  Grover."  I  built  these  two  in  one 
year,  coming  back  to  ('layton  in  the  fall  of  1855,  and 
that  winter  built  the  "I'.aglc  Wing"  for  John  Oades 
and  myself.  Oades.  at  that  time,  wa.-s  building  for 
Messrs.  Merick  iV  ( O.  I  was  master  of  the  "  l',.igle 
Wing"  in  1856,  sold  her  in  1857,  and  built  the 
schooner  "  Watclifid  "  Sailed  her  in  1858,  and  in 
1851^  went  to  Dresden  and  b  'ilt  a  steamboat  to  run 
on  Senec.i  Lake.  There  I  was  taken  sick  and  caine 
home,  where  I  was  laid  up  for  two  years.  In  1861  I 
sold  till!  "  Watchful"  and  built  the  ".Mediator."  In 
1S62  sold  one-half  of  her  to  A.  F.  Barker  and  John 
Johnston,  of  Clayton.  In  1863  I  sold  her  out  and 
built  the  "  Senator"  and  "  Snow-Bird."  Sold  them 
both  in  1S64,  and  built  the 'Brooklyn,  '  which  I  char- 
tered to  Merick,  Fowler  &  Esselstyne,  to  carry  tim- 


I  . 


56 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


bcr  for  two  years  at  $ioo  ( in  gold )  per  1,000  per 
cubic  feet.  She  unloaded  at  one  time  when  gold 
was  $2. So. 

In  1865  Mr.  Oades  went  to  Detroit  to  build  for 
Campbell,  Owen  &  Co.,  Mr.  M.  F.  Merick  being  the 
company.  They  wanted  a  man  to  take  Mr.Oades'  place 
at  Clayton  and  sent  for  me.  I  have  never  forgotten 
what  Mr.  Merick  said  to  me.  First  he  inquired  if  1 
"had  tools  tu  build  a  vessel,"  to  which  I  replied 
"yes  ;"  second,  "can  you  build  a  good  one?"  I  said 
"yes,  you  know,  Mr.  Merick,  what  kind  I  have  been 
building,  and  I  had  to  pick  up  my  timber  through 
the  country,  and  when  you  have  all  the  timber  of 
tlie  best  kind  delivered  to  you,  one  ought  to  build 
second  to  none."  lie  then  asked  what  wages  I 
wanted,  and  I  said  three  dollars  a  day.  He  said, 
"We  don't  want  you  by  the  day,  we  want  you  by  the 
year."  I  then  toKI  him  we  might  not  suit  each  other, 
and  if  I  was  hired  by  the  day  he  could  let  me  go  at 
any  time.  He  said,  "  Name  your  price  for  a  year — 
you  will  do."  Mr.  Ileniy  Esselslyn  being  present,  I 
told  them  that  if  I  took  charge  of  the  ship-yard,  I 
wished  to  hire  all  the  men,  set  the  wages  for  each 
and  disciiarge  any  one  who  did  not  do  his  duty — the 
men  to  be  paid  every  Saturday  night.  This  would 
throw  the  responsibility  on  me,  and  when  I  failed  to 
do  what  was  right  to  discharge  me.  "  Very  well," 
said  Mr.  Merick.  1  then  said  $1,000  a  year.  He 
asked  when  I  could  commence,  and  I  said  "to- 
morrow." •' Very  well,"  he  said,  "I  think  we  will 
have  no  trouble;  but  we  i.ave  always  had  the  best  of 
vessels  and  dcm't  want  any  others.  Full  canal  size 
vessels  and  of  the  best  stock  is  what  we  want."  I 
never  worked  for  a  company  thai  I  liked  as  well  as 
Merick,  Fowler  &  Esselstyn.  I  built  for  them  the 
"MontpeliLT,"  "Montcalr.i,"  "Mont  HIanc."  ".Mont- 
gomeiy,"  "  Montmorenci  "  and  others,  besides  re- 
building several. 

The  second  year  they  raised  my  salary  to  f  i,6ooand 
olFcred  me  ijij.joo  to  no  to  Detroit  to  work  for  them 
there.      Hut  with  my  home  in  Clayton,  and  wife  and 


children  with  good  frier -is  and  neighbors,  I  de- 
cided not  to  go.  They  then  wished  me  to  buy  the 
ship  yard,  which  I  did.  This  was  in  1867,  and  I  did 
their  work  until  1870,  when  they  took  their  fleet  of 
some  20  vessels  to  Detroit. 

Since  then  I  built  the  "  Hoboken,"  in  1868,  for  .A. 
F.  Harker;  the  "  L.  B.  Stone "  for  G.  M.  Read, 
Sacket's  Harbor,  and  the  "  Scud  "  for  Mr.  Rogers  of 
Rochester. 

In  i86g,  built  the  schooner  "Irene";  in  1870,  the 
sloop  "  Dashing  Wave  ";  in  1871,  the  schooner  "  Wni. 
Home";  in  1872,  the  "  Hattie  L.  Johnson,"  and  in 
1S74,  the  steamer  "  T.  S.  Faxton  "  for  A.  F.  Barker, 
Capl.  Holt  and  myself.  In  1877,  I  built  the  steamer 
"  Island  Belle."  Mr.  T.  H.  Camp,  of  Watertown, 
N.  Y.,  wanted  me  to  build  this  boat  to  run  in  con 
nection  with  the  R,  W.  &  O.  R.  R.,  from  Cape  Vin- 
cent to  Ale.xandria  Bay.  She  was  a  good  one  and  a 
favorite  on  the  river. 

I  built  the  steamer  "  S.  H.  Johnson,"  for  James 
Johnson,  of  Clayton.  Mso  the  "  Henry  Folgcr  "  for 
the  Folgers,  of  Kingston,  and  myself.  I  built  the 
"Black  Diamond,"  and  many  yachts,  both  sail  and 
steam. 

In  18S4,  I  built  the  steamer  "St.  Lawrence,"  for 
Folger  Bros.,  Kingston,  Ont.  She  was  built  and 
launched  at  Clayton,  May  24,  1884,  and  finished  ai 
Kingston.  In  August,  1886,  I  built  the  steam  yacht 
"Sirius,"  for  Capt.  Henry  S.  Johnston.  She  was  a 
fast  boat  and  is  now  owned  at  Alexandria  Bay. 

In  iSgo,  I  built  the  steamer  "  Nightingale,"  for  my- 
self, to  run  on  the  Clayton  and  Fine  V^iew  route. 
She  has  admirably  filled  the  bill  and  by  good  manage 
ment  and  prompt  service  has  come  to  be  a  general 
favorite  among  the  cottagers  and  Islanders  on  all  the 
Parks,  as  well  as  the  general  travelling  public. 

In  1894,  I  built  the  steamer  "  Island  Belle,"  (No.  21 
for  the  Alexandria  Bay  Steamboat  Co..  She  is  a 
day  boat  running  between  Clayton  and  Ogdensburg_ 
and  has  done  admirable  service. 


CAPT.   ALDRIDGE    KENDALL, 


Now  in  command  of  the  steamer  "  Islander," 
is  one  of  the  l)ost  known  and  most  popniar 
navij^ators  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river  For 
thirty-two  years  of  his  life  he  has  been  a  sailor 
on  Lakes  Ontario,  Erie.  Huron  and  Michigan, 
and  the  rivers  connecting  that  great  chain  of 
lakes  from  Chicago  to  Ogdensburg. 

Hy  keen  observation,  and  close  attention  to 
duty,  he  soon  acquired  a  thorough  knowledge 


of  navigation  ;  and  at  the  age  of  twenty-two 
years  he  had  distinguished  himself  sufiicienllv 
to  become  the  efficient  commander  of  the  con  - 
modious  passenger  steamer  "T.  S.  Faxton." 

For  twenty-one  years  he  has  been  a  com- 
mander of  vessels  and  during  that  time  has 
had  under  his  control  some  of  the  finest  steam- 
ers on  the  river. 

For  twelve  years  he   has  ran   a  steamer    in 


CIIAS.  //.   KENDALL. 


57 


connection  with  the  R.  W.  &  O.  R.  R.  sys- 
tem, and  during  that  time  has  only  failed  in 
connecting  wiili  two  trains.  Ciood  judgment 
is  always  exercised  by  him,  proven  by  the 
facts  that  he  has  never  lost  a  passenger  or 
one  of  his  crew,  and  has  never  been  in  col- 
lision with  another  crafi,  and  the  total  damage 
to  the  boats  he  has  commanded  for  twenty- 
one  years  would  not  amount  to  ^200.  There 
are  few  commanders  who  can  show  so  clean  a 
record  as  tiiis.  Tiiis  good  fortune  is  the  re- 
sult of  constant  vigilance  and  scrupulous  re- 
gard for  the  safety  of  passengers  and  valuable 


property  intrusted  to  his  care.  In  addition  to 
Capt.  Kendall's  ability  us  commander,  he  is  an 
experienced  river  pilot,  and  has  located  chan- 
nels and  buoys  at  many  difficult  places  on  the 
river.  Like  many  otiiers  of  Clayton's  vessel 
masters  he  began  at  the  bottom.  He  was 
born  in  the  town  of  Orleans,  1.S51,  and  came 
to  Clayton  when  an  infant,  grew  up  like  otiier 
boys  of  that  time,  attending  school  winters 
and  working  summers. 

He  is  universally  regarded  as  a  "  lucky  nvi;.," 
but  this  is  accounted  for  by  his  superior  judg- 
ment and  watchfulness. 


CAPT.   ELI    KENDALL, 


Whose  strong  and  handsome  face  is  shown 
among  the  collection  of  river  men,  was  born 
in  Clayton,  and  that  town  has  always  been  his 
home.  He  received  the  benefits  of  the  com- 
mon schools  in  that  town  until  the  age  of  four- 
teen years,  wlien  he  decided  to  become  a 
sailor,  and  sixteen  years  of  experience  is  such 
was  passed  on  the  "great  lakes,"  Ontario, 
Erie,  Huron,  Michigan  and  Superior.  He  has 
])assed  througli  many  dangers,  being  twice 
wrecked.  November  S,  1878,  he  was  a  sailor 
on  the  il'-fated  schooner  "Monteray,"  lost  on 
Sturgeon  Point,  Lake  Huron;  also  on  the 
schooner  "  Prince  Alfred,"  lost  in  Georgian 
Hay,  Lake  Huron.  Frciu  i860  to  1876  he 
followed  the  St.  Lawrence  and  lakes,  and  from 


1876  to  1896  has  been  in  different  steamers 
on  the  river.  During  those  years  he  has  com- 
manded the  best  river  boats,  and  his  vigilance 
and  untiring  industry  have  brought  him 
through  without  mishap.  He  is  considered 
one  of  the  best  pilots  between  Ogdensbur^ 
and  Chicago.  Ca])tain  "  Eli,"  as  he  is  fami- 
liarly called,  has  an  unusually  pleasant  nnd 
agreeable  character  —  courteous,  and  conse- 
quently popular.  He  is  no  excejition  to  the 
Folger  Bros.'  officers,  who  have  the  reputation 
of  being  the  ablest  navigators  on  the  river, 
and  the  millions  their  boats  have  carried  with- 
out losing  a  man  is  tlie  best  evidence  that  tins 
reputation  is  deserved,  as  well  as  affording  a 
hopeful  promise  for  the  future. 


CHAS.    H.    KENDALL, 


earner    m 


Commander  of  the  steamer  Jessie  Fiain,  in 
childhood  manifested  a  love  for  navigation. 
His  experience  began  when  a  mere  boy  and 
covers  nearly  twenty  years.  He  has  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  St.  I,awrence  river  and  Lake 
Ontario  unrivalled  by  no  other  commander  of 
the  river  crafts.  His  courage  is  dauntless, 
and  his  self-command  unecjualled  in  d  inger. 


He  was  born  in  Clayton  in  1S63,  and  since 
twenty  years  of  age  has  commanded  sail  or 
steam  crafts.  His  career  as  a  commander 
has  been  brilliant,  unmarred  by  serious  acci- 
dents. By  his  cheerful  attentiveness  to  busi- 
ness and  pleasant  demeanor  he  has  actjuired 
the  title  of  "Genial  Captain  Charlie,"  a  desig- 
nation well  deserved. 


58 


A    SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


SOME    OLDER    CAPTAINS. 


Travellers  who  were  upon  the  river  forty 
to  fifty  years  ago  will  not  forget  to  recall  the 
large  American  boats  then  running  upon  its 
waters;  and  the  names  of  the  men  who  com- 
manded these  vessels  will  rise  up  in  memory. 
Captain  Throop,  Captain  Chapman,  Captain 
Ledyard,  Captain  Estes  and  others  but  dimly 
remembered,   have    all    passed    away.     They 


were  an  extraordinarily  able  body  of  men  — 
probably  not  more  so  than  those  now  upon 
the  river,  but  the  steamers  they  commanded 
were  much  larger  than  the  Folger  boats,  if  we 
except  the  Empire  State.  Peace  be  to  the 
souls  of  those  old-time  commanders.  They 
are  not  forgotten. 


SAMUEL    B. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  face  more 
familiar  to  the  thousands  who  visit  the  islands, 
or  one  of  more  interest  than  is  the  dignified 
representation  of  Samuel  B.  Grennell.  He  was 
born  in  Adams,  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  Nov. 
lo,  1818.  His  ancestors  were  among  the 
eailiest  settlers  of  the  country,  and  tliey  fol- 
lowed in  succession  the  occupation  of  farm- 
ing, in  which  Samuel  him>:eif  i)asscd  the 
early  years  of  his  life.  He  surmounted  the 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  acipiiring  an  educa- 
tion, and  !iad  such  benefits  as  the  Antwerp 
school  of  early  days  afforded.  In  1840  he 
married  Miss  Lucy  M.  Jenison,  of  Water- 
town,  N.  v.,  who  bore  him  five  children, 
only  one  of  whom  (a  son,  Myron  W.  of  I,ud- 
dington,  Mich.)  survives.  In  1844  he  came 
to  La  Fargeville  and  began  hotel  life. 
"  Uncle  Sam  "  was  noted  far  and  near  for  liis 
hos]Mtality,  which  was  carried  into  extrava- 
gance. Misfc'iuine  ])ursue(l  iiiui,  and.  unseen 
and  unanticipated,  fell  upon  him.  In  a  few 
short  months  he  realized  the  fact  that  all  he 
once  possessed  by  honest  gain  was  lost.  Un- 
dismayed by  tliis  failure,  and  witli  a  keener 
knowledge  of  the  "hotel  business,"  in  i860 
a  new  scene  began  to  open  which  gave  a 
fresh  turn  to  his  enterprising  spirit.  Visitins^ 
that  liortion  of  the  river  above  the  PaiK, 
and  having  a  jirophetic  sense  of  future 
value,  he  purchased  eight  islands  for  a 
small     sum,     and      on     the     i)rincii)al     one 


GRE.MNELL. 

("  Stewart's  "  Island,  later  known  as  "Jeffers  ") 
he  erected  a  smail  house,  hanging  over  the 
front  door  the  name  "  Tavern."  and  again 
commenced  hotel  life.  "  ("rennell's  Tavern  " 
was  hailed  with  enthusia>m  by  the  sparce 
population  of  the  islands,  a'ld  was  regarded  as 
a  wonderful  enterprise  'Ihe  fame  of  the 
landlord  spread  and  the  "  Tavern  ''  was  the 
scene  of  many  a  festive  occasion.  Thither 
flocked  youth  and  maiden,  and  unfortunate, 
indeed,  were  the  newly  wed  not  within  walk- 
ing or  rowing  distance  of  the  "Tavern,"  as 
it  was  the  one  place  to  spend  tlie  honeymoon. 
Years  passed  on.  The  fame  of  the  Thousand 
Islands  became  known,  and  brought  many 
visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  land.  The  old 
"Tavern  "  has  been  changed  to  a  modern  hotel 
of  beauty  and  convenience,  and  many  whom 
tlie  nation  has  honored  have  been  the  guests 
and  received  the  meritorious  service  of 
"  Uncle  Sam."  After  thirty  years  of  strug- 
gle and  success  Mr.  Cirennell  retired  from 
hotel  life,  and  in  iSyo  sold  tiie  beautiful  site, 
now  occujjied  by  the  "  Pullman,"  to  J.  I. 
Sales,  of  Rome.  N.  V.  The  eight  islands  pur- 
chased in  1S60  have  been  converted  into 
pretty  summer  homes,  and  JefTers'  Island  is 
the  beautiful  spot  known  as  '*  (Irennell  Park," 
where  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Crennell  still  reside  in 
peaceful  seclusion.  Py  marked  industry  Mr. 
Grennell  has  made  a  comfortable  fortune,  but 
he  still  retains  the  sjiirit  and  activity  of  youth. 


^ 


HOWARD  S.  FOLGER. 


of  men  — 
now  upon 

Dmmanded 

)()ats,  if  we 
be   to  the 

;rs.     They 


59 


and  during  the  summer  he  continues  a 
flourishing  merrantiie  business,  and  also  has 
charge  of  the  post-office.     Although  seventy- 


six  years  of  age  he  has  not  yet  yielded  to  the 
decrepitude  of  age,  but  is  never  better  pleased 
than  when  relating  experiences.        n.  m.  k. 


HOWARD    S.   FOLGER. 

Among  tlie  river  men  who  have  come  to  by  its  prompt  service  to  the  public,  and  its 
thf  front  within  tlie  j^ast  few  years,  and  who  remarkable  freedom  from  accidents  or  care- 
now  liil  a  jmsition  of  great  responsibility,  is      lessness.     We  show  elsewhere  portraits  of  the 


"  Jeffers  ") 
I    over  the 
and   again 
's  Tavern  " 
the    sparre 
regarded  as 
ne    of   tlie 
■'  was  the 
Thither 
iforlunate. 
thin   wnlk- 
avern,"  as 
neymoon. 
Thousand 
gilt   many 
The  old 
)dern  hotel 
any  whom 
he   guests 
ervice    of 
of  Strug- 
rod    from 
utiful  site, 
to    J.    I. 
inds  pur- 
rted    into 
Island  is 
ell  Park," 
reside  in 
ustry  Mr. 
rtune,  but 
of  youth, 


HOWARD    S.  FOICER. 


Mr.  Howard  S  Folger,  the  General  Manager 
of  tlie  'I'housand  Island  Steamboat  Company, 
popularly  known  as  tiie  "  While  S(iuadron," 
wlii(  h  embraces  the  jialatial  steamers  Empire 
Stale,  America,  St.  Lawrence,  Islander,  and 
Jessie  Ikiin,  which  carry  without  accident  more 
than  hilf  a  million  of  passengers  each  season. 
Thai  this  fleet  is  well  managed  is  evidenced 


commanders  of  these  vessels,  and  they  are 
*'  able  seamen  "  in  every  respect,  careful,  able, 
and  discreet  gentlemen. 

"  Howard,"  as  he  is  everywhere  called,  to 
distinguish  him  from  the  numerous  class  of 
I'olgers,  is  the  son  of  Mr.  Henry  Kolger,  of 
Folger  Brothers,  bankers,  steamboat  owners, 
brokers,  etc.,  of  Kingston,  Ontario.      Howard 


6o 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LA  IV RE  A' CE  RIVER. 


was  born  in  1868,  and  up  to  the  time  lie  took 
charge  of  the  large  business  of  tlie  company 
he  was  a  student.  He  earned  the  degree  of 
A.  B.  from  Queen's  College,  Kingston,  in 
1889.  The  next  fall  he  entered  Columbia 
College,  New  York  City,  and  after  spending  two 
years  there  in  tlie  Law  Department,  was  grad- 
uated with  the  degree  of  LL.  B.  in  the  spring 
of  1.S91.  The  object  in  taking  this  course 
was  to  fit  him  more  completely  for  the  position 
he  was  to  fill  by  becoming  well  grounded  in  a 
knowledge  of  the  general  principles  of  law. 
In  1891  he  took  charge  of  the  business  of  the 
company,  and  since  then  he  has  devoted  him- 
self most  jierseveringly  to  its  interests,  as  well 
as  to  tiiose  of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad 
Com|)any,  with  wliicii  the  steamboat  company 
is  closely  allied. 

The  P'olgers  are  Americans,  even  though 
their  business  interests  are  s  >  largely  in  Can- 
ada. We  say  this  because  rivals  upon  the 
river  iiave  designated  them  as  foreigners. 
They  are  descended  from  a  long  line  of  sea 
captains  whose  operations  were  around  Cape 
Cod  and  Massachusetts  Bay  from  1775  to 
1850.  This  family  are  directly  related  to  that 
of  Benjamin  l-'ranklin,  whose  mother  was  a 
Folger.  No  family  in  this  section  can  trace 
its  ancestry  back  to  a  more  patriotic  and  hon- 
orable beginning.     The   sons  and   daughters 


of  the  Folger  family  would  be  admitted  any 
day  to  become  sons  or  daughters  of  purely 
American  societies  organized  in  this  country 
to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  the  American 
Revolution. 

Mr.  Howard  S.  Folger  has  always  shown 
himself  a  worthy  scion  of  this  patriotic  stock. 
He  has  exhibited  remarkable  business  ability 
in  the  several  positions  he  has  been  called  upon 
to  fill,  and  the  popularity  of  the  boats  of  the 
White  Scpiadron  is  very  much  due  to  his  ex- 
ecutive ability.  A  person  intimately  at  (piainled 
with  the  travel  upon  the  river,  wliich,  sonic 
days,  calls  for  the  handling  of  20,000  jjeople, 
with  car  loads  of  baggage,  express,  mail,  etc., 
can  understand  that  the  demands  ui)on  thu 
general  manager  are  sometimes  imi)erative, 
and  are  always  laborious,  calling  for  fore- 
thougiit,  prompt  action,  and  a  careful  consid- 
eration of  the  safety  of  ])assengers.  The  low 
water  on  the  St.  Lawrence  during  1895  de- 
veloped many  new  dangers,  but  the  Wiiite 
Squadron  got  through  the  season  witliout  any 
serious  mishap,  a  fact  that  is  the  highest  coiu- 
pliment  to  the  skill  of  Mr.  l'"olger  and  all  his 
numerous  subordinates,  and  enhanced  the  al- 
ready enviable  reputation  of  that  company  for 
handling  safely  the  i)recious  lives  and  the  proj)- 
erty  committed  to  their  charge.  'Ihis  is  an 
enviable  record,  well  earned. 


MR.    FRANCIS    M.   HUGO. 

Every  traveller  upon  the  Folger  boats  (and  He  is  Canadian  born,  though  now  a  citizen 
they  carry  about  70  per  cent  of  all  those  who  of  W^atertown,  N.  Y.  He  graduated  from 
frecpient  the  St.  Lawrence  archipelago),  will  Queen's  College,  Kingston,  in  the  class  of-'Qj, 
have  no  trouble  in  recognizing  the  portrait  we  and  bears  with  dignity  the  degrees,  M.  A.  and 
present  on  the  next  page,  that  of  Mr.  Hugo,  the  LL.  B.,  and  when  not  engaged  in  summer 
former  purser,  but  now  the  assistant-general  on  the  river,  is  studying  law  with  the  well 
manager  of  the  T.  L  S.  B.  Co.,  and  a  genial,  known  attorneys,  I'urcell  tS:  Carlisle,  in  \Vater- 
accommodating,  pleasant  gentleman,  whom  it  town.  His  ancestry  is  English,  and  he  has 
is  a  pleasure  to  know.  He  has  a  watchful  eye  the  peculiar  healthful  brawn  and  vigor  of  that 
for  business,  and  it  is  said  he  would  not  pass  remarkable  people.  He  promises  to  become 
his  own  mother  at  the  gangway  unless  she  could  a  distinguished  lawyer,  and  though  the  re- 
produce a  proper  ticket.  Be  that  as  it  may,  cipient  of  much  flattery,  his  head  has  not  yet 
he  is  ever  attentive  to  passengers,  and  is  popu-  swelled  observably.  Take  him  all  in  all, 
larly  known  as  the  right  bower  of  the  steam-  although  reserved  in  manner,  he  is  the  most 
boat  magnates,  the  I'olger  Bros.  popular  young  man  upon  the  river,  a  distinc- 


CAPTAIN  H.  C.  HUDSON. 


6t 


Imitted  any 
s  of  purely 
this  country 
e  American 

ways  shown 
riotic  stock, 
iness  ability 
called  upon 
joats  of  the 
le  to  his  ex- 
\;  acquainted 
which,  some 
ooo  jjeople, 
s,  mail,  etc.. 
Is   upon  the 

im|)erative, 
ng  for  fore- 
reful  consid- 
s.  The  low 
ng  1895  de- 
t    the  White 

without  any 
highest  coni- 

and  all  his 
uiced  the  al- 
company  for 

nd  the  prop- 
1  his  is  an 


"'H-  '-^im  ■"» '"  'V^i"' w,ym) 


i 


ow  a  citizen 
uated  from 
class  of  ■'92, 
5,  M.  A.  and 

in   summer 

ith   the  well 

e,  in  Water- 

and   he   has 

'igor  of  tiiat 

to  become 
igh  the  re- 
has  not  yet 

all  in  all, 
is  the  most 
r.  a  distinc- 


I 


MR.    KkANClS    M.   IILCO. 


tion  he  has  earned  by  politeness,  kindly  feel- 
ing and  by  an  unswerving  attention  to  his  own 


business.      Frank  is  now  twenty-five,  having 
been  born  in  1870,  at  Kingston,  Ont. 


CAPTAIN 

Whose  classical  features  are  shown  among 
our  unusually  good-looking  river  men,  was 
born  at  Cape  Vincent,  in  18^2,  making  him 
now  fifty-four  years  of  age.  He  has  commanded 
steamers  since  i86r,  and  has  always  followed 
tiie   water   since  his   early   youth.     He   now 


C.    HINCKLEY, 

commands  the  fine  steamer  "  America,"  the 
newest  and  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Folger  boats, 
in  which  capacity  he  is  unusually  popular 

Captain  Hinckley's  modesty  has  i)revented 
our  procuring  as  extended  a  sketch  of  his  life 
as  we  had  desired. 


CAPTAIN    H.  C.   HUDSON. 

The   popular  and  persevering  commander  born  in  Clayton,  in  1855.     He  had  the  usual 

of  the  "New   Island  Wanderer,"  one   of  the  advantage  of  the  common  schools  and  became 

fastest  and  promptest  boats  on  the  river,  was  possessor  of   a  fine  constitution    hv  ilv  1  brir 


62 


.1    SOUl'E.VfK   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


incident  to  farm  life.  At  fifteen  lie  concluded 
to  plough  water  instead  of  land,  and  in  1870, 
began  to  serve  under  Capt.  W.  E.  Williams. 
For  seven  yeara  lie  sailed  the  great  lakes  in 
the  employ  of  the  Northern  Transportation 
Company,  and  then  two  years  in  the  service 
of  the  Whitin;^  Company  of  Detroit.  For  two 
years  he  commanded  the  steamer  "Juniata," 
and  for  five  years  the  "  J.  F.  Maynard,"  which 
was  consigned  to  the  hone-yard  last  fall.  For 
five  years  he  also  commanded  the  "Ontario," 
one  of  Captain  Sweet's  boats.  He  has  com- 
manded the  "Xcw  Island  Wanderer"  for  four 
years,  and  the  jjublic  will  find  him  on  deck  on 
that  fine  steamer  during  1896.     His  young  son 


accompanies  Capt.  Hudson  on  the  "  Wan- 
derer," a  very  bright,  active  lad,  jnomising  to 
become  as  good  a  sailor  as  his  father.  The 
Captain  was  married  to  Miss  Philena  Hart,  of 
Clayton,  in  1877,  and  they  have  two  children 
born  to  them.  The  youngest  (Ross  ('. )  is  iiii 
infant,  but  the  eldest  (Chester  E.)  sails  witli 
his  father  on  the  Wanderer,  and  though  onlv 
fifteen  years  of  age  is  proving  a  reliable  and 
eager  participant  in  the  affairs  of  the  vessel. 
having  charge  of  the  book-stand.  Hut  few 
things  transpire  on  that  boat  unknown  to 
young  Hudson,  who  only  needs  years  to  make 
him  a  full  fledged  sailor  able  to  command.  He 
is  already  a  fair  business  man. 


I 


CAPTAIN  CHESTER  W.  REESE 


Is  the  son  of  William  Reese,  of  Clayton, 
where  the  captain  was  born  in  1867.  He  had 
the  advantage  of  the  excellent  common 
schools  of  the  town  and  early  manifested  a 
love  for  the  water.  His  first  experience  upon 
the  river  was  U])on  the  "  Island  Belle  "  in  his 
14th  year,  where  he  served  as  a  deck  hand, 
learning  to  become  a  pilot  and  navigator. 
Prompt,  active,  industrious  and  energetic,  he 
rose  from  one  position  to  another,  until  at  last 
he  became  afull-tledged  captain  commanding 
the  Folgcr  ]5ros.' steamer  "J.  F.  Maynard," 
then  tlie  "New  Island  Wanderer,"  then  the 
"  Islander,"  and    now   commands    the    most 


reliable,  well-managed  and  every-way  succes- 
ful  Folger  steamer,  the  "  St.  Lawrence." 

Captain  Reese  has  proved  himself  emphati- 
cally the  '*  right  man  in  the  right  place,"  and 
is  one  of  the  most  successful  and  popular  ol 
the  Folger  employes.  His  boat  is  always  on 
time,  and  by  his  bravery,  forethought  and 
pleasant  address  Captain  Chet.  Reese  has  won 
his  way  to  the  very  front  rank  among  the  river 
navigators.  His  aged  i)arents  still  survive 
him,  and  hi'-  home  is  with  them  in  the  village 
of  Clayton,  which  we  may  truthfully  desig- 
nate "  the  sailors'  snug  harbor  "  Our  Souvenir 
shows  the  faces  of  many  of  her  seamen. 


« 


CAPTAIN    HENRY    T.  JOHNSTON. 


Commanding  steamer  "Nigiitingale,"  wasborn 
in  Clayton  in  1863.  Naturally,  when  not  at 
school  he  spent  most  of  his  time  on  or  near  the 
water.  His  father,  Captain  S.  G.  Johnston, 
then,  and  for  years  after,  carried  on  an  exten- 
sive business  in  ship-building.  The  son  early 
learned  all  about  boats,  and  later  learned  to 
draft  and  build  thein,  and  soon  mastered  all 
the  details  of  that  business.  In  1883  he 
passed  the  examination  before  the  government 


steamboat  inspectors  and  received  his  first 
license  as  pilot.  Seeing  an  opening  on  the 
river  for  a  fast  pleasure  steam  yacht  for  par- 
ties to  charter,  Capt.  Johnston,  senior,  with 
his  son,  built  the  well-kown  steam  yacht 
"  Sirius."  The  son  sailed  her  for  five  seasons 
among  the  Thousand  Islands,  the  foot  of  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  Bay  of  Qiiinte,  thereby  ac- 
quiring a  knowledge  of  the  river  that  could 
not  be  learned  on  the  large  steamers  in  years  — 


"KATE"   JOHNSTON. 


«s 


the   "Wan- 

1 

romising  to 

f 

ither.      The 

i 

na  Hart,  of 

vo  children 

•'•' 

ss  C.)  is  an 

.; 

)   sails  with 

V; 

hough  only 

■5 

reliable  and 

;; 

the  vessel, 

i 

But  few 

uiknovvn    to 

:;ars  to  make 

nmand.    He 

a  complete  knowledge  of  tiic  fishing  grounds, 
shoals  and  beautiful  narrow  channels  that  are 
so  numerous  among  these  wonderful  islands. 
Selling  the  "  Sirius,"  the  son  built  the  "Alert  " 
and  commanded  her  for  two  seasons,  and  used 
her  in  the  same  capacity  as  the  "  Sirius."  The 
river  business  increasing  now  so  rapidly,  and 
the  different  parks  gaining  so  fa^  in  summer 
|)opulation,  the  now  well-known  steamer 
"Nightingale"  was  built  and  made  her  ap- 
pearance among  the  river  crafts.  Hecoming 
interested  in  her,  the  young  captain  was  given 
command  and  established  his  well-known  ferry- 


route  betv.  -t.  Clayton  and  Thousand  Island 
Park.  Tne  popularity  she  at  once  met  with 
can  be  seen  by  the  favor  shown  her  by  the 
public  in  her  passenger  traffic  between  the 
I)laces  named.  Having  seen  the  grand  old 
St.  Lawrence  spring  into  world-wide  fame  and 
popularity  in  so  short  a  time  as  a  summer 
resort,  and  the  wildest  islands,  as  if  by  magic, 
transformed  into  the  finest  of  summer  homes 
and  parks,  who  would  venture  to  predict  what 
the  future  holds  for  this  most  beautiful  and 
grandest  watering  place  on  the  continent  of 
America  .> 


-way  succes- 
rence." 
self  emphati- 
:  nlace,"  and 
d  popular  of 
is  always  on 
bought    and 
ese  has  won 
ng  the  river 
still    survive 
the  village 
ully  desig- 
ur  Souvenir 
amen. 


red   his   first 
ning  on   the 
icht  for  par- 
senior,  with 
steam    yacht 
five  seasons 
foot  of  Lake 
thereby  ac- 
■  that   could 
s  in  years  — 


CATHERINE -KNOWN    IN    HISTORY    AS  "  KATE "  JOHNSTON, 

Was  born  in  Sackets  Harbor,  Sept.  11, 
1S18.  Her  parents  were  William  and  Ann 
Johnston,  and  she  was  sister  to  two  men  well 
and  favorably  known  in  Clayton,  Hon.  John 
Johnston,  a  member  of  the  Assembly,  as  well 
as  having  held  many  other  offices  —  now  a 
banker,  and  Stephen  Decatur  Johnston,  for 
many  years  proprietor  of  the  Walton  House, 


THE   DEVILS   OVEN. 


'KATE       JOHNSTON. 


and    that    fine   jjroperty    is  yet    held    by   his 
widow  and  managed  by  his  son-in-law. 

Kate  Johnston  came  first  into  more  or  less 
public  notice  through  her  efforts  to  aid  her 
father,  over  whose  head  a  reward  was  sus- 
pended because  he  had  been  an  active  |)ar- 
ticipant  in  what  is  still  denominated  " 'I  he 
Patriot  War,"  though  what  particular  patriot- 
ism was  displayed  during  the  continuance  and 
ignoble  ending  of  that  remarkable  episode, 
we  have  never  been  able  to  ascertain.  Her 
father  being  forced  to  go  into  hiding,  she  be- 
came his  companion,  adviser  and  real  support. 


64 


A   SOW  EM  R  or    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


for  she  kept  him  supplied  with  provisions, 
clothing  and  news  of  the  efforts  his  enemies 
were  making  towards  his  capture.  In  this 
work  she  was  busy  for  over  a  year,  and  at  last 
had  the  good  fortune  to  see  her  father  a  free 
man,  and  holding  the  position  of  light-house 
keeper  upon  the  great  river  which  had  been 
his  hiding  place  for  so  long  a  time.  He  re- 
ceived a  free  pardon  for  whatever  he  had 
done  in  violation  of  international  law.  His 
daughter  earned    a  wide   reputation   for    her 


devotion  to  her  father  and  thus  became  an 
important  historical  character.  She  married 
Charles  L.  Hawes,  a  brother  of  Mrs.  John 
Johnston,  of  Clayton,  and  they  reared  five 
children.  She  died  at  the  home  of  her  brother, 
Hon.  John  Johnston,  Clayton,  N.  Y.,  on  March 
14,  1878,  in  her  60th  year,  leaving  a  name 
indissolubly  interwoven  into  the  legendary 
remembrances  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  because 
she  proved  herself  a  brave  daughter  and  a 
local  heroine. 


CAPTAIN    E.   F.   FORRESTER 


Was  born  on  the  St.  I,awrence,  near  what 
is  known  as  "  Forrester  Dock,"  August 
16,  1842,  and  was  never  out  of  sight  of 
the  river  excepting  for  one  year.  During 
the  rebellion  he  enlisted  in  Co.  B,  i42d  N.  Y. 
Infantry,  and  served  one  year.  After  coming 
home  was  out  of  health  for  a  year  or  two,  and 
so  concluded  to  try  the  water  for  a  while.  His 
first  sailing  was  on  an  old  scow,  on  which  he 
made  one  trip  to  Oswego.  That  made  him  a 
sailor,  so  he  struck  for  more  wages  and  shipped 
on  a  small  schooner.  There  he  served  a 
couple  of  seasons,  and  then  went  into  the  em- 
ploy of  what  was  known  as  the  Northern 
Transportation  Company,  running  propellers 
between  Ogdensburg  and  Chicago.  Here  he 
stayed  eleven  years,  commencing  as  wheels- 
man, and  afterwards  filled  first  and  second 
officers'  positions.  Finally  he  got  tired  of  the 
great  lakes  and  concluded  to  stay  on  the  old 


St.  Lawrence.  So  when  Capt.  Visger  built  the 
"  Island  Wanderer"  he  bought  the  steamer 
"Cygnet,"  that  built  uj)  the  route  among  the 
Islands,  since  so  popular  with  tlie  tourist,  and 
run  her  on  the  Ogdensburg  and  Alexandria 
Bay  route  for  five  years;  then  sold  out  and 
commanded  the  steamer  "  Rawson  "  for  two 
seasons,  then  took  the  "Lotus"  one  year; 
then  the  "Stranger"  one  year,  and  then  1  i' 
commanded  the  "Island  Wanderer  "  for  mx 
seasons  between  Alexandria  Bay  and  Ogdens- 
burg, and  last  season  commanded  the  "  Island 
Belle"  between  Clayton  and  Ogdensburu, 
making  sixteen  seasons  he  has  been  on  the 
river  routes.  He  has  carried  many  thousands 
of  passengers,  12,500  last  year,  and  has  always 
had  his  share  of  business  on  the  river.  Cap- 
tain Forrester  enjoys  the  respect  and  confi- 
dence of  all  who  know  him  as  a  competent 
commander  and  kind  gentleman. 


CAPTAIN    ELISHA    W.  VISGER 


Was  born  in  the  town  of  Orleans,  which  has 
a  wide  frontage  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
has  ever  afforded  extraordinary  opportunities 
for  making  sa  lors  of  its  young  men.  Capt. 
Visger  had  the  advantages  of  the  common 
schools  of  that  day,  and  put  in  his  time  work- 
ing on  the  farm  winters  and  attending  school 
summers.  In  his  43d  year  he  bought  the 
steamer  "Cygnet,"  and  in  1876  began  to  make 
the  first  trips  ever  known  among  the  Islands, 


an  industry  which  has  since  developed  into 
great  importance,  and  has  become  a  leading 
feature  upon  the  river.  He  ran  the  "Cygnet" 
three  years,  and  then  he  built  the  "Island 
Wanderer  "  (now  the  "  Island  Belle  "),  which 
he  ran  until  1888,  and  for  nine  years  this 
proved  the  most  celebrated  excursion  steamer 
on  the  river.  During  the  winter  of  1887  he 
formed  a  stock  company  and  built  the  steamer 
"  New  Island  Wanderer,"  which  came  out  in 


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CAPTAIN  FRANK  KENDALL. 


65 


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July,  1888.     This  boat  Capt.  Visger  managed      spects  a  remarkably  well  preserved  man,  one 
two  years,  then  he  acted  as  pilot  upon  the  river      of  the  pioneers  in  steaniboating,  a  man  re- 


until  1894,  when  he  again  managed  the  '"Island 
Wanderer."  Since  then  he  has  been  the  as- 
sistant to  his  son  upon  the  "  Captain  Visger." 
Captain  Visger,  senior,  is  now  in  his  63d 
year,  as  young  as  at  35,  and  is  in  many  re- 


spected by  everybody,  and  looked  up  to  as 
one  of  those  who  originated  these  excursion 
routes  which  have  proved  such  an  attraction 
to  visitors. 


CAPTAIN    WALTER    L.  VISGER 


Was  born  in  St.  Lawrence  county  in  1864, 
attended  the  common  schools  and  completed 
his  education  at  a  business  college  in  Roches- 
ter. His  father  having  been  for  many  years 
a  navigator  upon  the  river,  naturally  led  his 
son  into  the  same  business,  and  in  1875  he 
became  an  assistant  to  his  father  upon  the 
yacht  "  Cygnet."  He  remained  upon  that 
boat  for  three  years,  and  then  took  a  position 
upon  the  "Island  Wanderer,"  now  the  "Island 
Belle."  Here  he  remained  until  1887,  when 
the  "  New  Island  Wanderer"  came  out  in  1888, 
which  was  commanded  by  his  father,  Capt. 
Elisha  Visger.  Here  Captain  Walter  L.  re- 
mained a  year.  After  several  years  of  varied 
employment,  in  the  spring  of  1895  he  built 
and  assumed  command  of  the  "  Captain 
Visger,"  which  has  proved  the  most  popular 
yacht  upon  the  river,  thus    continuing    the 


business  conducted  for  twenty  years  by  his 
father,  who  was  the  first  man  to  make  the  pas- 
sage through  the  Lost  Channel. 

The  beautiful  yacht  "  Captain  Visger "  is 
being  overhauled  for  1896,  and  it  is  the  pur- 
pose of  the  commander  to  show  his  passengers 
every  island,  both  American  and  Canadian, 
from  three  miles  below  Alexandria  bay  to 
Clayton.  The  trips  will  include  nine-tenths 
of  all  the  islands,  improved  and  unimproved, 
in  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  are  to  be  three 
hours  in  length,  and  will  become  a  leading 
feature  in  the  St.  Lawrence  river  excursion 
business  for  the  season  of  1896,  as  well  as  for 
other  seasons,  as  the  "Captain  Visger"  has  at- 
tained a  popularity  that  will  not  soon  be 
eclipsed  by  any  rival,  large  or  small.  A  picture 
of  this  fine  boat  is  given  elsewhere. 


CAPTAIN  FRANK  KENDALL. 


Upon  our  composite  plates  of  the  river  cap- 
tains we  present  to  the  reader  Captain  Frank 
Kendall,  commander  of  one  of  the  Thousand 
Island  Steamboat  Company's  steamers. 

He  was  born  on  one  of  the  Thousand 
Islands  of  the  old  St.  Lawrence,  October  20, 
1 858.  His  earliest  desire  was  to  navigate 
that  grand  stream,  and  he  began  to  carry  out 
this  inclination  while  a  mere  lad,  and  his  early 
boyhood  found  him  a  sailor  in  summer  and  at- 
tending school  during  the  winter.  Thus  it  was 
he  laid  the  foundation  of  a  knowledge  which 
enabled  him  to  hold  so  high  a  position  of 
trust.    He  is  a  thorough  gentleman  as  well  as 


an  efficient  pilot.  Long  before  he  was 
twenty-one,  the  age  required  before  receiving 
a  pilot's  license,  he  was  thoroughly  qualified 
to  hold  such  a  position. 

Among  other  crafts  which  he  commanded 
in  his  early  days  were  some  of  the  steamers 
owned  and  managed  by  Mr.  A.  F.  Barker,  so 
that  when  the  present  Thousand  Island 
Steamboat  Company  was  organized,  Captain 
Frank  Kendall's  ability  and  worth  were  not 
overlooked,  and  he  was  assigned  to  command 
a  steamer  in  "the  White  Squadron."  The 
Folgers  soon  recognized  the  fact  that  he  was 
one  of  the  most  thorough  and  successful  of 


66 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


their  employes,  he  never  having  had  an  acci- 
dent. It  is  but  fair  to  add  that  Capt.  Ken- 
dall stili  enjoys  the  high  esteem  of  the  company 
and  is  still  in  their  employ. 

A  more  thorough  and  competent  gentleman 
cannot  be  found  anywhere.  He  is  familiar 
with  every   point   of   interest   on   tlie   river. 


This  with  his  pleasant  and  affable  manner,  his 
conscientious  adherence  to  the  truth  in  even 
the  most  trivial  matters,  makes  him  one  of 
the  most  interesting  and  entertaining  gentle- 
men a  stranger  on  the  river  could  meet,  and 
these  agreeable  attributes  l^ave  made  him  hosts 
of  friends  at  home  and  abroad. 


CAPTAIN    JAMES    A.  TAYLOR. 


Gamalial  Taylor,  the  grandfather  of 
James  A.  Taylor,  was  a  native  of  Rhode  Is- 
land, and  fought  under  General  Greene  in  the 
Revolutionary  war.  In  1778  was  married  to 
a  Miss  Lacy,  and  settled  at  or  near  Pough- 
keepsie,  N.  Y.,  where  Benjamin  B.  Taylor, 
the  father  of  James  A.,  was  born  April  18, 
1779,  and  served  in  the  war  of  1812  under 
General  McCombs.  He  removed  to  Canada 
with  his  parents  in  1818,  and  settled  near  the 
Bay  of  Quinte,  twenty  miles  above  Kingston. 
In  1S19  he  married  Sarah  Bosback,  and  had 
two  children,  James  A.,  born  October  3,  1824, 
and  Benjamin  Taylor,  born  September  5, 
1827.  This  one  joined  the  i86th  N.  Y.  Vol. 
Inf.,  and  was  shot  in  the  rebel  works  before 
Petersburg,  April  2,  1865.  Benjamin  B. 
Taylor,  the  father,  died  in  1830,  and  Sarah 
Taylor,  the  mother,  married  D.  R.  Maxon,  a 
former  resident  of  Brownville,  N.  Y.,  Septem- 
ber 25,  1833;  they  reared  three  girls  and  three 
boys.  (Marshman  and  Malcom  Maxon  served 
in  the  2d  Michigan  Cavalry,  and  Matthew  in 
the  i86tii  N.  Y.  Vol.  Inf.)  The  family  re- 
moved to  New  York  State  May  6,  1838,  and 
settled  in  the  town  of  Orleans,  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  directly  opposite  to  where  the 
"Sir  R(il)ert  Peel"  was  burned,  which  oc- 
curred May  29,  1838,  and  t;v.>  family  saw  it 
burn  and  "  Bill  "  Johnson  leave  tho  wreck. 

The  subject  of  this  sketch  then  folii,wed  a 
sailor's  life  until  1846,  when,  in  company  with 
his  step-father,  he  built  a  steam  saw-mill  and 
went  into  the  lumber  trade,  which  occupation 
he  followed  until  1862,  when  he  joined  the 
10th  N.  Y.  Artillery  as  a  private  at  its  organ- 
ization, August  7,  1862,  at  Backet's  Harbor, 
serving  in  company  K,  Capt.  B.  B.  Taggart. 


James  A.  Taylor  was  ordered  by  the  War 
Department  to  take  charge  of  a  recruiting 
party  and  proceed  to  Jefferson  county,  where 
he  located  in  Watertown  and  Alexandria  Bay. 
Pie  received  his  commission  as  First  Lieuten- 
ant May  9,  1863,  and  was  assigned  to  com- 
pany I,  Capt.  H.  O.  Gilmore.  On  May  28, 
1863,  he  relieved  Capt.  Standring,  5th  N.  Y. 
Artillery,  and  took  command  of  Fort  Greble 
with  half  of  company  I,  and  a  company  of 
California  cavalry,  until  relieved  by  Capt. 
Greene.  He  returned  to  his  company,  and 
resigned  September  19,  1S63.  Re-enlisted 
August  22,  1864,  joining  the  i86th  as  a  pri- 
vate. January  14,  1865,  commissioned  as 
Second  Lieutenant  and  assigned  to  company 
B,  commanded  by  Capt.  Jay  D.  McWayne. 
He  took  part  with  the  regiment  in  the  follow- 
ing engagements:  Hatcher's  Run,  Fort  Sted- 
man,  and  at  the  fall  of  Petersburg,  April  2, 
1865,  and  was  at  Appomattox  when  Lee  sur- 
rendered April  9,  1865.  He  was  mustered 
out  with  the  regiment  June  2,  1865,  near 
Alexandria,  Va. 

He  returned  home,  and  the  same  year 
bought  Hemlock  Island,  now  Murray  Hill 
Park,  for  $100,  part  cash  and  the  balance  in 
trade.  About  the  year  1870,  in  company 
with  Sisson  &  Fox,  of  Alexandria  Bay,  bought 
the  Fuller  mill  and  what  was  called  Potash 
Point,  now  a  part  of  the  village  of  Alexandria 
Bay,  and  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade.  In 
1873,  in  company  with  John  F.  and  Chas. 
Walton,  bought  the  steamer  *'  Shoecraft,"  of 
Buffalo,  being  the  first  yacht  brought  on  the 
river  for  pleasure  parties,  and  for  exploring 
the  islands  and  the  various  intricate  channels 
of   tlie    river.     In    1875   the  "Needle   Gun" 


CAPTAIN   GEORGE    SWEET. 


67 


wns  added,  owned  by  E.  N.  Robinson,  of  the 
well-known  firm  of  Robinson  &  Drew,  of  New 
York  city.  This  gentleman  gave  our  hero  the 
name  of  "  Captain  Jack,"  by  which  name  he 
has  since  been  familiarly  known  on  the  river. 
He  was  appointed  deputy  collector  of  customs 
at  Thousand  Island  Park  in  1890,  and  the 
same  year  assisted  in  the  formation  of  the 
"Thousand  Island  Investment  Co.,"  with  A. 
Corbin,  Jr.,  of  Gouverneur,  N.  Y.,  as  Presi- 
dent;   J.    A.   Taylor,  Vice-President;    J.   C. 


Lee,  Secretary  and  Treasurer.  This  company 
is  located  at  Murray  Hill  Park,  with  capital 
stock  of  ^100,000,  fully  paid  and  non-assess- 
able. The  company  sold  in  fourteen  months 
lots  to  the  value  of  $63,000.  It  paid  to  stock- 
holders four  5-per  cent  dividends,  and  is  still 
a  large  owner  of  stock  in  said  company,  be- 
sides owner  of  Palisade  Park  and  various  points 
on  the  river.  Captain  Taylor's  immediate 
family  contributed  five  recruits  to  the  Union 
army. 


CAPTAIN    GEORGE    SWEET 


Was  born  in  Schuyler,  Herkimer  county,  N. 
Y.,  in  1825.  He  had  the  advantages  of  the 
common  school  of  that  era,  attending  it 
winters  and  working  on  his  father's  farm 
in  summer.  His  first  experiences  away  from 
home  were  upon  the  Erie  canal,  and  that 
gave  him  an  inclination  for  life  upon  the 
water.  In  1850  he  was  married  to  Miss 
Catherine  faults,  and  they  have  reared  three 
children,  two  girls  and  one  son,  Vernon. 
Leaving  the  Erie  canal,  he  came  to  Carthage 
in  1858,  that  place  being  the  foot  of  navigation 
upon  the  Black  River  canal,  then  recently  con- 
structed, and  there  he  was  one  of  those  who 
started  the  Carthage,  Lowville  and  New  York 
freight  lines.  They  transported  the  greater 
part  of  the  outgoing  produce  from  Jefferson 
and  Lewis  counties  to  the  east,  the  railroads 
not  then  being  built.  In  i860  he  launched 
the  "Gallagher"  for  towing,  and  built  several 
other  boats  for  Black  River  service,  including, 
in  1865,  a  passenger  boat  which  made  regular 
trips  from  Carthage  ♦:■■>  Lyons  Falls.  This 
boat  was  named  the  "  F.  G.  Connell,"  and 
continued  in  service  on  the  river  u.itil  the 
Black  River  road  was  completed  to  Carthage. 
In  1872  Captain  Sweet  went  to  Rochester 
and  built  the  "James  H.  Kelly,"  to  run  on 
the  Genesee  river  between  Charlotte  and 
Rochester.  In  the  spring  of  1873  this  boat 
was  transferred  to  Cape  Vincent  for  service 
upon  the  St.  Lawrence  between  Cape  Vincent 
and  Alexandria  Bay,  connecting  with  the  trains 
of  the  Rome  and  Watertown  Railroad.     This 


service  employed  the  captain  for  three  years, 
and  the  boat  was  used  afterward  for  eleven 
years  in  the  service  of  the  Utica  and  Black 
River  road  after  completion  to  Clayton.  In 
this  connection  it  may  be  said  that  Captain 
Sweet  was  the  first  person  to  present  to  the 
Rev.  J.  F.  Dayan  the  possibilities  of  Wells- 
ley  Island  as  the  locality  for  a  permanent 
Methodist  camp-meeting  ground.  That  was 
the  beginning  of  the  now  celebrated  Thousand 
Island  Park. 

About  1876  Captain  Sweet  built  the  steamer 
"J.  F.  Maynard,"  so  long  known  on  the 
river  between  Cape  Vincent,  Clayton  and 
Alexandria  Bay.  Having  lengthened  the 
"  Kelly  "  some  30  feet,  and  had  her  registered 
as  the  "  John  Thome,"  the  captain  had  two 
boats  upon  the  river,  travel  having  increased 
very  considerably.  In  1 886  he  sold  his  boats  to 
the  Folger  Bros,  and  purchased  the  "  Ontario," 
using  her  as  an  excursion  boat  from  Charlotte 
to  points  near  that  locality,  but  she  was  soon 
put  on  the  route  to  Alexandria  Bay.  She  was, 
at  a  later  day,  put  upon  the  regular  route 
from  Oswego  to  Alexandria  Bay,  in  connection 
with  the  Delaware,  Lackawana  and  Western 
Railroad,  and  thus  continued  until  1891.     In 

1892  the  captain  put  a  steamer  on  Lake 
Canandarago,  at    Richfield    Springs,  and    in 

1893  he  built  a  steamer  at  Old  Forge,  upon 
the  Fulton  Chain,  in  the  Adirondacks.  He 
retains  this  boat  (the  "C.  L.  Stowell ")  at  the 
present  time. 

The  captain  has  been  a  popular  and  efficient 


%' 


68 


A   SOUVK.MR   OF    THE  ST.  LAW'RKXCE  RIVER. 


navigator,  and  has  always  made  friends  wher- 
ever liis  lot  has  been  cast.  He  is  well  remem- 
bered upon  the  St.  Lawrence  as  one  of  the 
most  agreeable  and  fortunate  steamboat  men, 
and  as  one  of  the  first  to  build  up  and  popu- 
larize the  local  ])assengci  traffic,  which  has 
now  become  so  profitable  and  important. 
Since  1858  he  has  been  a  resident  of  Carthage, 
N.  Y.,  where  he  is  recognized  as  a  leading  and 
influential  citi/en. 

Vernon  Sweet,  the  captain's  only  son,  was 


also  a  river  captain,  having  commanded  the 
"John  Thorne  "  for  a  number  of  yea  s,  and 
took  the  "Ontario"  down  the  St.  Lawrem  e 
and  around  to  New  York  liarbor,  whence  she 
was  despatched  to  the  Caribbean  Sea  for  duiv 
there.  His  sudden  and  unfortunate  deaili 
occurred  in  June,  1895,  at  r'ulton  Chain,  and 
created  extended  sympathy.  There  was  an 
amount  of  mystery  about  his  death  that  has 
not  yet  been  cleared  up  satisfactorily.  [Sec 
Vernon's  portrait  on  another  page.] 


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THE    ST.   LAWRENCE    RIVER    AND   INLAND    NAVIGATION. 


OEVERAL  years  ago  there  appeared  in 
^^y  one  of  New  York's  illustrated  news- 
papers three  curious  pictures.  The  first  rep- 
resented fifty  men  carrying  a  large  block  of 
stone.  The  men  were  arranged  in  four  files 
and  each  file  carried  on  their  shoulders  a 
stout  pole.  Ey  means  of  other  poles  and 
ropes  the  block  of  stone  was  suspended  in 
the  middle  of  the  group  of  men,  and  with 
much  strain  and  labor  they  were  staggering 
along  with  their  great  load.  The  second  pic- 
ture represented  the  same  stone  placed  in  a 
rude  cart  and  drawn  by  a  pair  of  oxen  with 
much  difficulty  over  a  sandy  road.  The  third 
picture  represented  the  same  stone  placed 
upon  a  hand-car  and  pushed  along  the  rail- 
road track  by  one  mai.. 

This  first  picture  represented  animal  power 
used  in  the  most  wasteful  manner.  In  the 
second  picture  the  simpler  principles  of  me- 
chanics were  applied  in  a  rude  way  to  assist 
the  oxen,  who  could  not  carry  the  stone 
or  lift  it  from  the  ground,  but  when  it  was 
placed  upon  the  cart  they  were  able  to  carry 
it  a  much  longer  distance  than  was  possible 
for  the  fifty  men.  In  the  third  picture  the 
mechanical  advantage  was  utilized  to  the  ut- 
most by  employing  a  better  vehicle  and  plac- 
ing it  upon  a  smooth  track.  So  great  was 
the  gain  that  one  man  did  the  work  of  fifty, 
and  could  propel  the  stone  thirty  miles  a  day, 
whereas  the  fifty  men  could  barely  carry  it 
six  miles  a  day  with  their  utmost  effort. 

It  may  be   said    that    these   pictures  were 


highly  instructive  but  incomplete,  because  a 
railroad  was  used  as  the  means  of  swiftest  and 
least  laborious  method  of  transporting  the 
stone  ;  wherejs,  if  applied  to  transportation 
by  water,  the  resulting  power,  speed  and  sav- 
ing would  have  been  enormously  increased. 
If,  instead  of  one  block  of  stone,  five  sucli 
blocks  as  the  one  shown  had  been  placed 
upon  a  boat  and  poled  upon  a  river  or  canal, 
one  man  could  have  been  seen  doing  the 
work  of  five  times  fifty  men.  The  same 
effect  would  have  been  observed  if,  instead  of 
poling  the  boat,  one  man  had  towed  lier  along 
by  means  of  a  line  in  his  hand,  he  travelling 
along  a  beaten  path.  The  four  pictures 
would  then  tell  more  than  the  first  three,  and 
they  would  together  make  a  graphic  detail  of 
some  of  the  factors  of  the  most  important 
commercial  questions  of  the  day,  and  it 
would  be  clearly  shown  the  great  superiority 
of  rivers  or  other  waterways  over  railroads 
for  the  transportation  of  freights.  These  word- 
pictures  may  be  called  illustrations  of  th',; 
primitive  methods  of  moving  freights. 

Fifty  years  ago  the  St.  Lawrence  was  just 
beginning  to  be  appreciated  as  one  of  the 
great  waterways  of  the  Western  world,  and 
people  in  the  East  began  to  understand  that 
along  this  great  artery  freights  could  be  moved 
with  reasonable  celerity  for  half  the  rates 
charged  by  the  railroads. 

In  "  Scribner's  Magazine"  an  able  article 
appeared  a  few  years  since,  entitled  '*  Tlu.' 
Water  Route  ""rom  Chicago  to  the  Ocean,"  by 


THE  ST.  I.AWREXCE  RIVER  AXD   IXLAXD   XAV IC,ATI().\. 


69 


nanded  tlie 
yea  's,  and 
:.  Lawremc 
whence  she 
ea  for  duly 
nate  death 
Chain,  and 
sre  was  an 
th  that  lias 
jrily.  [Sec 
■] 


I,  because  a 
wiftest  and 
sorting  the 
nsportation 
;d  and  sav- 

increased. 
:,  five  sucli 
2611  placed 
er  or  canal, 

doing  the 
The    same 

instead  of 
her  along 

travelling 
r    pictures 

three,  and 
\c  detail  of 

important 

y,    and   it 

uperiority 
railroads 

hese  word- 

ns   of   the 

ts. 
was  just 

ne  of  tlie 
orld,   and 

stand  that 
be  moved 
the    rates 

Lie  article 
led  "The 
fcean,"  i)y 


I 


Capt.  C.  C.  Rot;i:KS,  U.  S.  N.  The  whole 
article  is  too  long  to  be  given  here,  but  it  is  so 
admirably  written  that  we  transcribe  that  por- 
tion taking  in  Lake  Ontario,  the  1,000  Island 
Archipelago,  as  well  as  the  lower  river  below 
().^densburg  and  Prescott.  In  this  connection 
the  author  of  this  Souvenir  declares  his  inten- 
tion, if  spared,  to  prepare  and  publish  a  book 
which  shall  give  a  complete  history  of  every 
port  upon  the  river,  from  Kingston  to  Quebec, 


Captain  Rogeks,  in  his  article  in  Scribner's, 
says: 

Lake  Ontario,  the  smallest  of  the  great  lakes,  is 
190  miles  long  and  more  than  50  miles  wide;  its 
mean  depth  exceeds  400  feet,  and  its  elevation  above 
the  sea  is  234  feet.  It  seldom  freezes,  except  near  the 
shore.  Oswego  and  Roehestcrare  its  principal  ports 
on  the  south.  The  for:ner  has  been  in  direct  com- 
munication with  the  Hudson  since  1822,  by  means  of 
a  small  canal  as  far  as  Syracuse,  and  thence  by  the 
Erie  Canal  to  Troy  and  Albany.     Four  railways  con» 


A   SAFE    DAY   FOR   THE    I'lSII,    HUT   A    OOOl)    DAY    FOK   THE   LOVERS. 


profusely  illustrated.  Indeed,  he  was  prepar- 
ing for  such  a  book,  and  had  expended  over 
$3,000  upon  it,  when  the  money  panic  of  1S73 
occurred,  and  frotn  that  cause  he  was  unable 
to  proceed  with  the  work.  Such  a  book 
would,  of  necessity,  be  expensive,  but  it  seems 
even  now  to  be  demanded  by  the  travelling 
jiuhlic  as  well  as  by  the  progressive  people 
who  have  come  into  this  unique  St.  Lawrence 
river  section; 


verge  here,  and  steamers  ply  daily  to  the  eastern  and 
western  ports.  Large  ([uantities  of  grain  are  re- 
ceived, and  twenty  or  more  mills  make  it  one  of  the 
largest  flour  manufacturing  cities  in  the  Union. 
There  are  also  several  foundries,  machine  shops  and 
shipyards. 

Rochester,  though  seven  miles  from  the  lake,  re- 
ceives a  large  quota  of  shipping  through  Charlotte, 
its  port.  From  Charlotte  the  steamer  "  Bon  Voy- 
age," whose  picture  is  shown  in  this  book,  makes 
tri-weekly  trips  to  Alexandria  Bay;  and  it  has  two 
important  channels  of  trade  in  the  Erie  and  Genesee 


70 


A    SOi'VEX/K   OF    THE  ST.  LAVVKEyCE  RIVER, 


ValleyCanals,  the  latter  licrc  uniting  wiili  tlie  former. 
Its  elevation  above  the  lake  is  226  feet,  and  its  situa- 
tion on  the  Genesee  River  secures  the  immense  water 
power  due  to  its  falls,  and  thus  makes  it  natural!}'  a 
manufacturing  I'.ty.  Though  ranking  as  one  of  the 
greatest  flour  producers  in  the  world,  its  manufac- 
tures in  clothing,  iron,  glass  and  rubber  are  exten- 
sive. It  is  connected  by  rail  with  every  city  of  im- 
portance in  this  country  and  Canada. 

On  the  Canadian  side,  Toronto  is  the  largest  city 
of  this  and  of  all  the  great  lakes.  Entered  by  six 
railways,  possessing  a  good  harbor,  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  rich  agricultural  district,  and  being  at 
once  the  religious,  educational,  political,  literary, 
legal  and  commercial  centre  of  the  most  populous 
province  of  Canada,  it  has  advanced  with  great 
rapidity.  Its  population  is  about  160,000.  To  the 
English  people  of  Canada,  Toronto  is  what  Quebec 
is  to  the  French  inhabitants.  Quebec  is  French; 
Montreal,  as  the  meeting  place  of  all,  is  cosmopoli- 
tan; and  Toronto  is  English.  It  has  several  found- 
ries and  engine  works,  car-shops,  rolling-mills,  brew- 
eries, a  mammoth  distillery,  and  many  other  varie- 
ties of  manufacture. 

The  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company 
runs  a  daily  line  of  steamers  between  this  city,  Mon- 
treal, Quebec,  the  Saguenay,  and  intermediate  ports; 
it  owns  twenty-five  vessels,  the  largest  being  nearly 
300  feet  long  and  having  a  stated  speed  of  twenty 
miles  an  hour.  It  has  virtually  a  monopoly  of  the 
steam  traffic  over  its  itinerary. 

Hamilton,  at  the  extreme  west  end  of  the  lake,  is 
the  second  city  of  Ontario  in  population,  and  the 
first  in  manufacturing  industry.  Its  railways  fur- 
nish communication  with  the  principal  points  of  the 
Dominion  and  of  the  United  States.  It  is  often 
styled  the  Birmingharri  of  Canada,  and,  though  the 
comparison  is  presumptuous,  it  is  not  altogether  un- 
warranted. Its  factories  are  equipped  with  modern 
plant  and  the  latest  labor-saving  devices,  and  main- 
tain a  daily  output  of  metal,  wood,  and  leather  pro- 
ducts, textile  fabrics,  glassware,  engines,  and  boil- 
ers. The  capital  invested  in  industrial  operations  is 
about  one-thirtieth  of  the  entire  capital  invested  in 
manufacturing  industries  througho\it  the  Dominion, 
and  the  proportion  of  goods  is  in  nearly  the  same 
ratio. 

Cobourg,  though  small,  boasts  of  a  university, 
and  ships  annually  to  the  United  States  30,000,000 
feet  of  lumber,  30,000  tons  of  iron  ore,  and  150,000 
bushels  of  grain.  Daily  steamers  run  to  Charlotte; 
and  after  leaving  here,  eastward-bound  vessels  pass 
well  out  into  the  lake,  to  avoid  the  great  peninsular 
county  of  Prince  Edward. 

Kingston,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  has  16,000  in- 
habitants, is  the  seat  of  the  Royal  Military  Academy 
of  Canada,  and  ranks  as  a  fortress  next  to  Quebec 


and  Halifax.  Its  bay  is  broad,  deep,  and  well  shel- 
tered, and  in  war  it  would  become  an  extensive  nav.il 
depot.  Ucing  the  port  of  trans-shipment  for  Moii- 
treal  of  three-fourths  of  the  grain  arriving  froju  the 
upper  lakes,  it  is  a  city  of  some  commercial  import- 
ance; the  grain  is  sent  down  the  St.  Lawrence  in 
barges,  the  cost  of  such  transfer  being  about  onu- 
half  cent  per  bushel.  Kingston  is  also  tiie  souili 
terminus  of  the  Rideau  Canal,  which  connects  it 
with  Ottawa  There  are  manufactories  of  iron  cast- 
ings, machinery,  locomotives,  marine  engines,  and 
leather;  bout  building  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent, 
and  vessels  for  lake  and  river  navigation  are  built 
and  fitted  out. 

From  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal  the  distance  is  1S3 
miles.  Just  below  Kingston,  the  lake  contracts  into 
the  funnel-shaped  head  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
enclosing  the  Thousand  Islands.  In  reality  thcv 
number  1,692  and  extend  forty  miles,  with  a  width 
in  some  places  of  seven  miles.  The  descent  of  the 
river  through  them  is  made  in  well-defined  channels, 
which,  with  their  extensions,  are  so  deep  that  vessels 
of  the  greatest  draught  can  pass  readily  between  the 
lake  and  Ogdensburg.  As  early  as  1673,  the  waters 
of  this  archipelago  were  traversed  by  a  flotilla  of 
two-gun  barges  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  canoes, 
led  by  Frontenac,  Governor  of  Canada,  attended  by 
the  celebrated  Abb6  de  F6n61on.  Steamers  ply 
between  Cape  Vincent,  Clayton,  and  Alexandria 
Bay,  on  the  arrival  of  trains  at  the  two  former  places, 
and,  in  addition  to  the  Folger  steamers,  which  con- 
nect with  the  trains,  there  are  other  good  boats  con- 
stantly plying  up  and  down  between  Clayton,  Alex- 
andria Bay  and  Ogdensburg. 

Overlooking  the  islands,  on  the  Canadian  side,  is 
Brockville,  of  6,000  inhabitants,  a  railway  junction, 
and  below  which  the  Thousand  Islands  are  left,  and 
the  open  river,  two  miles  wide,  is  entered.  Thirteen 
miles  farther  lies  Prescott,  a  stone-built  town,  whose 
chief  business  is  done  by  a  great  distillery  and 
brewery,  and  two  iron  foundries.  The  bastions  of 
Fort  Wellington  are  seen  on  the  east.  The  Grand 
Trunk  railway  is  nearly  one  mile  from  the  town,  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  railway  begins  at  llic 
river  side.  The  river  is  a  mile  wide  here,  and  oppo- 
site stands  Ogdensburg, with  two  miles  of  wharves  and 
extensive  flour  and  lumber  mills.  It  is  the  terminus 
of  three  railways;  and  its  situation  at  the  foot  of  sloop 
navigation  on  the  lakes  gives  it  peculiar  c0mmerci.1l 
advantages.  Ten  million  bushels  of  western  grain 
pass  this  point  annually;  in  1892,  16,000  tons  were 
transhipped  here  for  Montreal  —  a  new  departure, 
for  up  to  1890  such  transfers  were  made  only  at 
Kingston. 

About  seven  miles  below  Prescott  begins  the  chain 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  canals  proper,  constructed  to 
overcome  the  rapids  which  they  flank,  with  a  total 


rise 

to  de 

ship; 

thr 

beau 

Iciigl 


THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  AND  INLAND  NAVIGATION. 


71 


and  wt^ll  shel- 
xtcnsivc  nav.il 
ncnt  for  Mun. 
iving  froju  the 
lercial  inipori- 
I  Lawrence  in 
ng  about  onc- 
Iso  the  soutli 
h  connects  it 
s  of  iron  casi- 
engines,  and 
I  great  extent, 
ition  are  built 

listance  is  1H3 
contracts  into 
I'rence  River, 
1  reality  tlitv 
,  witii  a  width 
lescent  of  the 
ned  channels, 
p  that  vessels 
V  between  the 
73,  the  waters 
!  a  flotilla  of 
wenty  canoes, 
,  attended  by 
Steamers  ply 
1  Alexandii.i 
ormer  places, 
s,  which  con- 
id  boats  con- 
layton,  Alex- 

idian  side,  is 

ivay  junction, 

are  left,  and 

ed.    Thirteen 

town,  whose 

stillery   and 

bastions  of 

The   Grand 

e  town,  and 

begins  at  the 

e,  and  oppo- 

wharves  and 

the  terminus 

fool  of  sloop 

commercial 

estern   grain 

X)    tons  were 

V    departure, 

ade    only  at 

ns  the  chain 
istructed  to 
with  a  total 


i 


rise  of  2o6>4  feet,  and  locks  enabling  lake  vessels 
to  descend  and  exchange  cargoes  witii  the  sea-going 
sliips  at  Montreal.  They  are,  in  order  of  descent, 
llic  Galop,  Ra()ide  Plat,  Farran's  Point,  Cornwall, 
lieauliarnois,  and  Lachine  canals.  Their  combined 
ienglli  is  43S   miles,  tlie  distance  between  Prescolt 


increased  size  of  vessels,  the  Canadian  government 
decided  in  1871  to  make  a  navigable  depth  of  12  feet 
through  all  the  canals  and  river-shallows,  which  soon 
after  was  changed  to  14  feet.  Since  then  work  has 
benn  carried  on  with  this  object  in  view,  but  it  has 
not  been  completed.     Two  new  locks  of  the  Corn- 


I 


A    l.OOD    PLACE    FOR  BASS. 


and  Montreal  being  119  miles.  The  first  three  are 
also  styled  the  Williamsburg  canals.  The  Galop 
formerly  comprised  two  distinct  channels,  known  as 
the  Iroquois  and  the  Galop  canals;  they  were  joined 
and  now  form  one  line. 

Originally,  this  system  of  canals  was  designed  for 
a  depth  of  9  feet,  but  the  fluctuations  in  the  stage  of 
the  river  rendered  it  diiricult  to  maintain  ;  at  times 
it  falls  to  6  feet  seven  inches.     On  account  of  the 


wall  canal  are  of  the  stand.ird  dimensions  (Welland 
size  )  ;  and  the  Lachine  canal  has  been  completed 
for  12  feet  navigation,  with  locks  and  bridges 
adapted  for  14  feet  navigation,  the  untouched  work  in 
it  consising  of  the  excavation  of  the  canal  prism  to 
a  further  depth  of  two  feet  for  more  than  six  miles  of 
its  length. 

The  river  channel  has  been  cleared  of  obstacles  to 
14  feet  navigation  from  the  head  of  Galop  Rapids  to 


72 


A   SOrVICXIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


the  Cornwall  canal;  from  the  foot  of  the  latter  to  the 
Beauharnois  canal  it  is  navigable  by  the  largest  ves- 
sels; and  a  dupth  of  14  (eet  again  exists  through  Lake 
St.  Louis,  cxcepiin)'  the  lower  four  miles,  in  which 
the  clianncl  must  be  deepened  and  widened  at  a 
number  of  places. 

The  Cornwall  canal  overcomes  the  Long  Sault 
Rnpids  ;  at  St.  Regis,  near  tiie  foot,  the  forty-fifth 
parallel  intersects  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  now  be- 
comes exclusivi'ly  Canadian,  It  is  also  interesting 
to  observe  the  small  width  of  the  river  near  this 
point,  and  that  the  narrowest  width  between  the 
United  States  and  Canadian  territory  is  about  600 
feet,  measured  between  the  northwest  side  of  Croil's 
Island  and  the  canal  bank.  The  St.  Lawrence  now 
expands  into  Lake  St.  Francis,  25  miles  long  and  5 
miles  in  maximuna  breadth,  and  dotted  with  inlets 
at  its  lower  end. 

The  Beauharnois  canal  lies  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river  and  overcomes  the  Cascades,  Cedar,  and 
Coteau  Rapids.  Surveys  for  a  new  route  have 
been  made  on  the  northern  bank.  It  connects 
Lakes  St.  Francis  and  St.  Louis,  the  latter  in  turn 
being  connected  with  Montreal  harbor  by  the  Lachine 
canal. 

The  latter  consists  of  one  channel  with  two  dis- 
tinct systems  of  locks,  the  old  and  the  enlarged, 
both  of  which  are  in  use.  On  its  banks  are  the 
canal  and  Grand  Trunk  offices  and  sheds,  occupy- 
ing a  point  of  land  on  which  the  celebrated  Victoria 
bridge  finds  its  terminus.  Opposite  the  upper  en- 
trance is  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga,  the 
terminus  of  the  Montreal  and  New  York  railway, 
with  which  the  Grand  Trunk  connects  by  ferry  ;  a 
railroad  from  Montreal  to  Lachine  borders  the 
northern  bank  of  the  canal.  Sea-going  vessels  can 
now  pass  into  the  basins  between  the  lower  locks 
with  coal,  sugar,  and  plaster  for  the  factories  in  this 
part  of  the  city  and  for  the  Grand  Trunk  works. 
They  can  also  reload  at  the  r"me  points,  where  there 
is  ample  dock  room. 

After  leaving  Lake  St.  Louis,  the  St.  Lawrence 
dashes  wildl}'  down  the  Lachine  Rapids,  a  descent 
of  forty-two  feet  in  two  miles  ;  and  eight  miles 
farther  on,  after  passing  beneath  the  twenty-five 
spans  of  the  Victoria  bridge,  one  and  three-quarter 
miles  long,  reaches  the  quays  of  Montreal. 

The  purposes  had  in  view  by  the  Canadian  govern- 
ment in  determining  upon  a  depth  of  fourteen  feet, 
were  to  enable  the  largest  class  of  lake  vessels  at 
[that  time  to  carry  their  cargoes  direct  to  Montreal 
without  breaking  bulk;  to  secure  for  Canada  all  the 
advantages  which  the  possession  of  this  magnificent 
waterw.iy  ought  to  give  it;  to  make  the  St.  Lawrence 
in  its  whole  length  the  highway  by  which  the 
surplus  products  of  the  West  would  seek  an  outlet 
to  the  sea  ;  and  to  put  it  into  a  position  to  compete 


successfully  for  the  export  trade  of  the  continent 
with  the  several  lines  of  communication  on  our  side 
of  the  boundary. 

The  total  expenditure  on  the  Welland  and  St. 
Lawrence  Canals  is  aboiU  $41,250,000  ;  it  will  re- 
quire $12,750,000  more  to  complete  the  work,  or 
^54,000,000  in  all.  The  construction  of  the  lock  at 
Sault  Ste.  Marie  and  other  necessary  improvements 
will  swell  this  sum  to  $60,000,000,  the  final  result 
being  a  navigable  depth  of  fourteen  feet  between 
Lake  Superior  and  Montreal. 

The  history  of  marine  architecture  does  not  fur- 
nish another  instance  of  so  rapid  and  complete  a 
revolution  in  the  material  and  structure  of  floating 
equipment  as  has  taken  place  on  the  great  lakes 
since  18S6.  In  that  year  the  total  valuation  of  the 
vessels  by  Lloyd  was  about  $30,600,000.  In  1S89, 
sixty  new  steamers  and  eleven  sailing  vessels,  ag- 
gregating 70,000  tons,  and  valued  at  $6,650,000. 
were  added  to  the  fleet.  During  the  four  winters  of 
1886-1890,  the  tonnage  of  the  lakes  was  nearly 
doubled  ;  206  vessels,  measuring  399,975  tons,  were 
turned  out  of  the  shipyards  with  a  valuation  of  $27,- 
389,000.  During  the  same  time,  the  number  of 
steamers  of  more  than  1,500  net  register  tons  in- 
creased from  21  to  no.  The  two  valuations  of 
the  fleet  alreadv  presented  differ  by  more  than 
$9,000,000;  but  either  one  emphasizes  the  fact  of 
the  very  recent  and  extraordinery  growth  of  this 
commerce,  and  renders  it  difficult  to  predict  thr  in- 
crease in  the  tonnage  and  in  the  size  of  vessels 
upon  the  lakes  during  the  four  years  that  remain  till 
the  opening  of  the  next  century. 

More  than  one-half  of  the  vessels  on  the  great 
lakes  are  assigned  to  Chicago,  Port  Huron,  Detroit, 
Milwaukee,  Grand  Haven,  Cleveland,    and   Buffalo. 

The  number  of  Canadian  vessels  on  the  lakes  is 
647  ;  tonnage,  132,971  ;  valuation,  $3,989,130.  For 
further  comparison,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  total  of 
coast  and  inland  shipping  registered  in  Canada  is 
7,153  vessels,  of  1,040,481  register  tons,  valued  at 
$31,213,430. 

The  increase  in  population  of  the  lake  ports  indi- 
cates the  great  increase  that  must  follow,  necessa- 
rily, in  the  business  of  the  lakes  and  also  of  the  rail- 
ways tributary  to  them.  Bufiltlo  has  increased  from 
about  42,000  in  1850  to  255,000  in  i8go  ;  Cleveland, 
from  17,000  in  1S60  to  262,000  in  i8go  ;  Chicago, 
from  30,000  in  1850  to  1,100,000  in  1890  ;  while  De- 
troit and  Milwaukee  exhibit  a  remarkable  parallel- 
ism in  growth,  the  former  having  increased  from 
116,340  to  205,876  during  the  last  ten  years,  and  the 
latter  from  115,587  to  204,468. 

The  simplicity  of  lake  commerce  is  one  of  its  chief 
characteristics.  Coal,  iron  ore,  and  lumber  com- 
prise three-fourths  of  the  total  cargo  tonnage  of  the 
lakes  :  add  to  these  corn,  wheat,  and  mill  products. 


THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  ASD  l.XLAXI)  X A  VI  CATION . 


71 


anil  nine-tenths  of  the  total  traffic  will  be  accounted 
fur. 

The  sailing  vessel  has  almost  disappeared  from 
the  lakes.  The  square-rigged  ship  is  no  longer  seen, 
and  only  a  few  of  the  great  cargo-carrying  schooners 
arc  left.  The  sailing  tlcet  was  succeeded  by  the 
propeller,  as  it  Is  known  locally,  with  its  tow  of  one 
or  more  consorts  ;  and  it  in  turn  is  giving  way  to  the 
modern  steamer,  maintained  at  little  more  than  one- 
half  the  cost  while  having  a  carrying  capacity  quite 
as  great,  a  speed  double  that  of  the  propeller  and 
consort,  and  making  two  or  three  round  trips  for 
one  of  the  tow. 

The  rapid  growth,  too,  of  steam  transportation, 
and  the  competition  of  lake  lines  with  the  railways, 
have  caused  continual  reductions  in  the  cost  of 
transportation.  The  cost  per  ton  per  mile  of  carry- 
ing freight  an  average  distance  of  eight  hundred 
miles,  was  one  and  one-half  mills  in  i88g.  The 
value  of  all  the  cargoes — 27, 500,000 tons — carried  on 
the  lakes  during  that  year  was  over  $305,000,000. 
Had  this  been  carried  at  railway  rates,  Mr.  E.  L. 
Corthell,  of  the  Society  of  Engineers,  estimates  that 
the  cost  to  the  public  would  have  been  over  $143.- 
000,000  ;  by  the  lake  rates  it  was  about  |23,ooo,ooo 
only  ;  so  that  transportation  on  the  lakes  saved  to 
the  public  about  f  120,000,000  in  one  year.  A  large 
part  of  the  heavy  freight  has  been  carried  for  less 
tlian  one  and  one-half  mills  per  ton  per  mile.  An- 
thracite coal  is  carried  from  Buffalo  to  Duluth,  1,000 
miles,  for  30  cents  per  ton.  The  water-rates  from 
Chicago  to  Buffalo,  on  wheat,  were  two  and  one-half 
cents  per  bushel  in  1890. 

The  average  distance  for  which  freight  on  the 
lakes  is  carried  is  566  miles.  From  this,  the  Cen- 
sus  Bureau  estimates  the  ton  mileage  for  the  season 
of  1SS9  to  be  15,518,360,000  ton  miles.  The  aggre- 
gate ton  mileage  of  railways  for  the  year  ending 
June  30,  1889,  was  68,727,223,146  ;  which  shows  that 
the  ton  mileage  of  the  lakes  is  nearly  one-fourth  of 
the  total  ton  mileage  of  railways  in  the  United  States. 
In  no  other  way  could  the  relative  importance  of 
lake  commerce  be  more  efTectivelj'  shown. 

The  ship  builders  of  the  lakes  are  progressive, 
and  keep  pace  with  all  improvements  in  marine  ar- 
chitecture. Steel  vessels  are  built  with  double  bot- 
toms, water-tight  compartments,  triple-expansion 
engines,  and  modern  electrical  and  steam  appli- 
ances. The  structural  strength  may  be  realized 
from  the  fact  that  a  large  proportion  are  built  for 
the  trade  in  iron  ore.  At  a  time  trial  in  Esca- 
naba,  during  the  summer  of  1887,  a  steamer  was 
loaded  with  over  2,000  tons  of  ore,  and  steamed 
away  from  the  dock  in  forty-five  minutes  after  being 
placed  under  the  chutes.  The  record  shows  that 
another  vessel  was  loaded  with  2,800  tons  of  coal  in 
one  hour  and  fifty  minutes  ,  300  tons  for  fuel   were 


put  on  board  in  another  hour,  so  that  in  two  hours 
and  fifty  minutes  after  opening  the  hatclics,  the  ves- 
sel was  loaded  and  coaled.  That  ordinary  sea- 
going ships  will  not  stand  the  strains  of  this  traffic 
is  demoiistraied  by  the  fact  that  four  steel  steamers, 
built  on  the  Clyde  for  Canadian  owners,  had  to  be 
repaired  and  strengthened  throughout,  after  one 
season's  work,  to  fit  them  for  further  service.  These 
vessels  steamed  across  ilie  Atlantic,  were  cut  into 
halves  on  the  lower  St.  Lawrence,  the  sections  being 
then  towed  through  the  canals  and  put  together  on  the 
lakes.  Two  more  were  built  on  the  Clyde,  with  the 
benefits  of  this  experience  and  of  the  builders'  visits 
to  our  Northwestern  ship-yards. 

The  wliarves  for  the  unloading  of  ships  at  Mon- 
trcil  are  ten  feet  below  the  level  of  a  revetement 
wall,  which  extends  along  the  entire  river-front  of 
the  city;  so  that  one  standing  upon  the  wall  may 
see  the  shipping  of  the  port  spread  out  before  him. 
Near  the  Lachine  canal  are  the  basins  for  the  Allan 
steamers  to  Glasgow  and  Liverpool;  then  follow 
steamers  from  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  European 
ports,  then  sailing  ships  and  the  sheds  of  the  Lon- 
don Line  and  of  the  Dominion  Line  from  Liverpool; 
next  are  the  river  boats  plying  between  Quebec  and 
Montreal;  then  succeed  the  smaller  river  steamers, 
barges,  and  finally  sailing  vessels  and  steamers  as 
far  as  Hochelaga.  Here,  nearly  1,000  miles  inland 
from  the  Atlantic,  are  vessels  from  all  parts  of  the 
world;  from  England,  with  iron,  dry  goods,  and 
general  goods;  from  the  Mediterranean,  with  wines 
and  groceries;  from  Germany,  with  glass  and  gen- 
eral goods;  from  China  with  tea  —  alongside  of  ves- 
sels loading  with  return  cargoes  of  grain,  cattle, 
lumber,  mineral  phosphates,  and  other  products  of 
Canada.  The  wharves  are  not  disfigured  by  un- 
sightly ware-houses,  but  the  river-street  is  as  clear 
as  a  Parisian  quay. 

Leaving  Montreal,  the  steamer  glides  swiftly  down 
the  St.  Mary  current,  leaving  on  the  right  St.  Helen's 
Island,  a  prettily  wooded  spot,  named  after  Helen 
Boull6,  the  young  wife  of  Champlain,  who  charmed 
the  wild  Hurons  in  1620  with  her  gentle  manners. 
Still  further  to  the  right  opens  out  Longueil  Bay, 
exhibiting  in  the  tinned  steeple  and  steep  roof  of  its 
village  church  the  characteristic  picture  of  the  lower 
St.  Lawrence  in  parish  after  parish.  The  river  flows 
through  a  wide  alluvial  plain,  the  Laurentian  Moun- 
tains far  on  the  north,  and  on  the  south  the  Green 
Mountains;  everywhere  long  stretches  of  arable 
land,  broken  only  where  the  Lombardy  poplar  rears 
its  formal  shape  against  the  sky. 

Below  Longueil  the  Ottawa  joins  its  flood  finally 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  hiding  its  union  in  a  cluster 
of  low  islands.  Opposite  Berthier,  on  the  right 
bank,  the  Richelieu  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
after  draining  Lakes   Champlain  and  George.     On 


74 


A   SOUrEXIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


its  eastern  bank  stands  Sorcl,  where  most  of  the 
steamers  on  the  river  have  been  built.  The  Riche- 
lieu is  rendered  n.ivigable  tv  Laite  Cliam plain  by  a 
small  lock  twelve  miles  above  Sorel,  and  by  the 
Chamhly  Canal,  thirtytwo  miles  further  up-stream; 
these  give  a  navigable  depth  of  seven  feet,  and 
accoinmodaie  vessels  114  feet  long  and  23  feet  wide. 
The  St.  Lawrence  now  opens  out  to  a  width  of  nine 
miles;  and  for  twenty-five  miles  the  steamer  passes 


THE   STE.\MER    "ALGERIAN"   RUNNING  THE  LONG   SAULT   RAPIDS. 

through  Lake  St.  Peter,  a  vast  expanse  of  flats 
through  which  a  ship  channel  has  been  dredged.  At 
several  places  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  there 
were  formerlj'  shoal  places,  preventing  large  vessels 
from  reaching  the  former  city.  Their  aggregate 
length  was  ncnrly  forty  miles,  divided  between  twenty 
different  phiccs.  I'lo  widest  being  in  Lake  St.  Peter. 
The  work  of  drcdj^ing  the  channel  here  began   in 


1844,  and  continued  with  the  increase  in  trade  and 
size  of  ocean  steamers,  till,  at  the  end  of  1885,  ,1 
depth  of  27i  feet  was  reached,  the  total  cost  bein^; 
♦3.503i87"'  This  channel  varies  from  3(X)  to  450  feci 
in  width.  As  a  consequence  of  these  river  iniprovt- 
ments,  the  size  of  vessel  able  to  ascend  to  Montreal 
has  increased  from  1,045  tons  and  12  feet  draught, 
in  1856,  to  3,211  tons  and  23  feel  draught  in  187S; 
and  now  that  the  works  are  completed,  ship-  •  '  4,(«'i. 
lotis  or  evi  II  iiioie  ran  navigate 
the  St.  Lawrence  with  safely. 

East  of  the  lake  lies  Three 
Rivers,  the  third  city  of  import- 
ance on  the  lower  St.  Lawrence. 
Here  the  river  first  meets  il.'' 
tide;  the  St.  Maurice  falls  in 
from  the  north,  after  a  course 
of  300  miles  through  an  im- 
portant lumber  region.  Further 
east,  and  running  parallel  to  it, 
is  the  St.  .Anne,  twenty  miles 
below  which,  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence, occur  the  Richelieu 
Rapids,  where  large  ships 
usually  wait  for  high  tide  be- 
fore passing,  as  the  rocks  an' 
dangerous.  The  scenery  now 
begins  to  lose  its  flatness,  and 
in  the  distance  the  mountains 
around  Quebec  can  be  seen, 
blue  and  dim.  On  the  right, 
near  the  ciiy,  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Chaudiire  River;  and  glid- 
ing on,  past  ships,  rafts,  and 
booms,  the  steamer  sweeps 
under  Cape  Diamond,  into  the 
basin  of  Quebec,  shadowed  by 
precipitous  cliflTs  from  which 
the  (Jueen  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
looks  down  in  all  her  quaint 
beauty  upon  a  scene  rarely 
equalled  in  the  new  world. 

The  lower   town  of  Quebec 
is    built    on    reclaimed     land, 
around   the  base  of  the  cape, 
one  of  its  sides  being  washed 
by  the  St.  Charles,  which  here 
flows   into    the    St.    Lawrence. 
At    the     mouth     of     the    St. 
Charles  is  the  Princess  Louise  Embankment,  enclos- 
ing a  tidal  basin   of  twenty  acres,  which  is  24  feet 
deep  at  low  water;  connected  with  it  is  a  wet  dock, 
of  27  feet  depth,  and  forty  acres  area.     On  the  oppo- 
site side,  at  point  Levis,  is  the  Lome  Dry  Dock,  500 
feet  long,  100  feet  wide,  and   25^  feet  deep   on  the 
sills.     The  commerce  of  this  city  began  with  the  fur 
trade,    and    this    remains    an    important    element. 


-<v»;..t5.»;«. 


t 


THE  ST.  I.AW'RIIS'CE  RIVER  AM)  IXLAXD  XAl'IGATIOX. 


75 


in  trade  and 
id    uf   1885,  ,1 
il    cost  bcin^; 
l<)0  to  450  fttt 
ivLT  iniprove- 
I  to  Montreal 
fi'ct  draiiglit. 
iiglil  in  187S; 
,hii"i  "'  4. (KM) 
f.ui  iiaviKJiu 
vitli  safi-iy. 
Lc  lies  Three 
ity  of  iinporl- 
St  Lawrcnriv 
St   meets   il.-' 
jricc  falls   in 
flor  a  course 
oiigh   an   im- 
;ion.    Further 
parallel  to  il, 
twenty  miles 
the  St.   Law- 
e      Richelieu 
larpc      ships 
hi^'li  tide  be- 
lie rocks  arc 
scenery  now 
flatness,  and 
le   mountains 
:an   be   seen, 
)n   the   right, 
he  mouth  of 
r;  and  glid- 
rafts,   and 
mer     sweeps 
nd,  into  the 
shadowed  by 
from    which 
St.  Lawrence 
her  quaint 
scene    rarely 
w  world. 

of  Quebec 

imed    land, 

of  the  cape, 

leing  washed 

which  here 

Lawrence. 

of     the     St. 

nent,  enclos- 

h   is  24  feet 

a  wet  dock, 

)n  the  oppo- 

■y  Dock,  500 

Jeep   on  the 

with  the  fur 

t    element. 


Enormous  trans.ictions  In  lumber  go  on  here  annu- 
ally. 1  he  whole  lower  valley  of  the  St,  Lawrence 
and  the  northern  lumber  regions  draw  their  merchan- 
dise from  this  center. 

On  leaving  Quebec,  far  ofT  lo  the  left  is  the 
Montmorenci,  whose  white  foam  shines  out  from 
the  green  hillside.  As  the  steamer  moves  across  the 
basin,  beautiful  views  are  allbrded  on  all  sides,  iii- 
cliidini,'  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  citadel,  towering 
over  the  river.  The  fine  island  of  Orleans  is  soon 
reached  on  the  left,  with  its  village  of  St.  Laurent, 
where  the  expedition   under  Wolfe  landed  in  175'). 


ning  to  approach  nearer,  and  while  watching  the 
ever-changing  views,  the  i'laverse  is  reached,  where 
the  river  is  thirteen  miles  wide,  but  the  only  ehannci 
available  for  large  ships  is  not  more  than  1,400  yards 
across.  The  Isle-aux-Coudres  and  two  laige  shoals 
obstruct  its  navigation,  the  bottom  is  irregular,  and 
currents  run  in  alt  directions. 

The  traveller's  interest  is  now  apt  to  pass  from  the 
water  and  the  mountain  heights  to  the  seigniory  of 
Les  I'iboulements,  remarkable  as  an  eaithnuake 
centre.  Jesuit  tradition  relates  that  in  1663  the 
mountains  were  thrown   down  and  the  face  of   the 


•s^-^^. 


STEAMER  "  COUSICAN "  RUNNING   LACHINF.    RAPIDS. 


An  intervening  island  hides  St.  Anne,  a  pretty  vil- 
lage to  which  pilgrimages  are  made,  and  where  the 
patron  saint  has  worked  as  many  miracles  as  any  in 
Europe.  Thirty  miles  below  Quebec  is  Grosse  Isle, 
the  quarantine  station,  and  about  which  linger  the 
memories  of  1807,  when  the  famine-stricken  Irish 
poured  into  Canada,  and  6,000  are  said  to  have  been 
buried  here  in  one  long  grave.  Opposite  rises  Cape 
Tourmente,  1,800  feet  high,  the  north  shore  now 
being  wild  and  mountainous,  and  rising  so  boldly 
from  the  river  as  to  permit  no  roadway  along  its 
base,  and  so  rocky  and  desolate  as  to  prevent  habita- 
tion for  many  miles;  while  the  south  side  for  more 
than  100  miles  is  a  continuous  settlement.  Yet  far 
off  in  the  latter  direction,  the  mountains  are  begin- 


country  was  changed  as  far  as  the  Saguenay.  Ice 
was  thrown  up  in  great  heaps,  the  river  ran  of  a 
changed  color,  a  mountain  was  cast  into  tbe  sea  and 
became  an  island,  the  piety  of  the  inhabitants  grew 
more  earnest,  and  there  were  never  so  many  con- 
fessions or  conversions;  even  liquor-dealers  saw  the 
error  of  their  ways  and  repented. 

A  short  run  brings  the  steamer  to  a  wharf  where 
passengers  land  for  Riviere  du  Loup  and  for 
Cacouna,  the  paradise  of  fair  Quebeckers  and  famous 
for  dancing  nd  flirting.  Nearfy  opposite  enters  the 
Saguenay,  cleft  through  the  mountains  and  nearly 
900  feet  deep  for  many  miles.  In  the  little  harbor  at 
its  entrance  died  Chauvin,  the  enterprising  Hugue- 
not,   who    induced    Champlain    to    visit    Canada. 


*• 


76 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


ill      ' 


Perched  high  above  it  on  the  clifTs,  is  a  quaint  little 
chapel,  evincing  the  zeal  of  its  founders,  in  a  wilder- 
ness uf  cliffs  where  roads  are  impossible. 

Bic  Island  is  the  next  point  of  interest;  it  is  the 
hnt  anchorage  in  the  river,  where  outward  bound 
vessels  leave  their  pilots  and  many  ships  are  found 
during  the  summer.  Here  in  December,  1861,  a 
Cunard  steamer  landed  a  regiment  of  the  Guards 
during  the  crises  of  the  Trent  afTair.  Finally, 
Rimouski  is  reached;  the  Intercolonial  Railway  to 
Halifax  passes  through  it,  and  ocean  steamers  re- 
ceive passengers  and  mails  for  the  last  time.  The 
town  is  two  miles  from  the  wharf,  and  is  the  most 
important  settlement  in  the  province  east  of  Quebec. 

The  south  bank  now  rapidly  becomes  bold  and 
grand;  the  mountains  have  receded  from  the  north 
shore,  so  ;hat  all  the  scenery  is  on  iliis  side.  At 
Point  des  Monts,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  en- 
tered; the  1,'ft  sliore  trends  rapidly  to  the  north; 
little  fishing  stations  only  are  seen  at  the  base  of  the 
steep  hills.  Anticosti  becomes  quickly  visible  In 
the  distance,  with  a  flora  indicating  a  subarctic  cli- 
mate; while  opposite,  near  the  western  shore,  are 


the  Seven  Islands,  green  with  turf  and  flowers,  and 
forming  a  beautiful  •  and-locked  bay  where  the  largest 
fleets  could  ride  in  safety.  Whittier  has  made  them 
the  scene  of  a  touching  ballad,  in  which  he  aptly 
styles  them  "  the  last  outpost  of  summer  upon  the 
drea'  coast."  All  along  tc  Belle  Isle  are  deep 
ti'irds,  broad  bays  crowded  with  rocky  islets,  salmon 
streams  without  number,  and  myriad  inlets,  the 
Inuntsof  innumer.b.e  aquat:.;  birds  from  these  for- 
bidding shores,  v/hose  -old  \.'P.t';rs  teem  with  fish  in 
inconceivable  numbers,  greater  wealth  has  been  car- 
ried than  from  the  mines  of  Potosi.  Nor 'las  time 
deprived  them  of  a  pl.nce  in  romance,  as  the  steamer 
bids  adieu  to  St.  Lnv/rence  waters,  the  eye  has  a 
final  glimpse  of  the  pretty  island  of  Meccatina,  where 
Roberval,  the  stern  Huguenot,  abandoned  his  niece, 
Lady  Margaret,  and  her  duenna,  when  her  love  be- 
came evident.  Her  lover  jumped  overboard  and 
swam  to  the  island  to  share  her  fate.  The  duenna 
died,  and  the  lover  died;  and  after  two  years  of  soli- 
tary struggle,  the  lady  was  rescued  by  a  passing 
vessel  and  carried  to  her  home  across  the  ocean 
while  she  was  trying  to  forget  what  she  had  endured. 


HOW   THE    INDIANS    LEARNED   THE    RAPIDS. 


CAPT.  JOHNSTON    OF  CLAYTON,  TELLS   ABOUT    THE   FIRST   STEAMER   THAT   RAN   THE  ST.  LAW- 
RENCE  RAPIDS. 


f\' 


MONG  the  ablest  of  those  river-men  who 
have  made  their  iinpression  upon  the 
era  in  which  they  have  lived,  is  Captain 
Simon  G.  Johnston,  of  Clayton,  for  many 
years  foreman  in  Merrick,  Fowler  &  Essel- 
styn's  large  shipyard  at  that  place,  where  they 
built  the  finest  steamers  that  ever  plpughed 
the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  "  New 
York,"  "Northerner,"  "Bay  State,"  and 
*'  Niagara."  The  captain  is  now  owner,  with 
his  son,  of  the  steamer  "  Nightingale,"  which 
forms  an  independent  line  upon  the  river. 

In  a  late  conference  with  Captain  Johnston 
we  were  much  impressed  with  his  knowledge 
of  river  incidents,  and  we  let  him  tell  his  story 
in  his  own  unique  manner: 

A  great  deal  of  steamboat  talk  has  been 
going  the  rounds  of  the  press  lately,  and  some 
of  it  is  far  from  true. 

I  have  been  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St. 
I^awrence  river  sixty  years.  In  1840  I  was  on 
the  steamer  "  Telegraph  "  as  wheelsman,  and 


since  1844  I  have  been  in  the  vessel  or  steam- 
boat business.  I  was  on  the  propeller  Western, 
running  between  Montreal  and  Toronto  and 
west,  in  1843,  and  in  those  days  we  ran  all  the 
rapids,  for  there  was  no  canal  but  the  Lachine. 
We  came  up  through  the  Lachine,  thence  up 
by  the  way  of  the  Ottawa  (then  called  "  By- 
town  ")  and  thence  to  Kingston  on  the  Rideau. 
I  am  stating  these  facts  to  explain  what  I  mean. 
Now  the  first  large  boat  to  run  the  rapids 
was  a  boat  built  at  Niagara,  called  the  "  On- 
tario," which  came  out  in  1839  or  1840,  and 
proved  to  be  a  very  fast  boat  for  those  days. 
On  her  trial  trip  she  broke  one  of  her  shafts 
thirty  or  forty  miles  below  Toronto.  It  hap- 
pened that  the  steamer  "  Coburg  "  came  along 
and  asked  if  the  "Ontario"  needed  assistance, 
and  the  latter's  captain  replied,  "  No,  I  thank 
you."  He  then  caused  the  boiler  on  that  side 
of  the  boat  to  be  filled  with  water,  moved  all 
the  ballast  over  to  that  side,  and  started  with 
one  wheel.     Running  under  these  difficulties, 


HO  IV   THE  INDIANS  LEARNED    THE  RAPIDS. 


77 


d  flowers,  and 

:? 

■s 

lere  the  largest 

.,j 

las  made  them 

'X 

^hich  he  aptly 

I 

mer  upon  the 

',{ 

Isle   are  dce[) 

islets,  salmon 
ad   inlets,   the 

1 

from  these  for- 

d 

;m  with  fish  in 

_.> 

1  has  been  car- 

% 

Nor  'las  time 

.■:i 

as  the  steamer 

4 

the  eye  has  a 

y. 

ccatina,  where 

# 

)ned  his  niece, 

■1 

1  her  love  be- 

5 

averboard  and 

,--i 
% 

The  duenna 

0  years  of  soli- 

by  a  passing 

OSS   the   ocean 

1 

ehad  endured. 

-y. 

HE  ST.  LAW- 

sel  or  steam- 

Iler  Western, 

oronto  and 

ran  all  the 
le  Lachine. 

thence  u]3 

ailed  "  By. 
the  Rideau. 

lat  I  rnean. 

the  rapids 
the  "  On- 

1840,  and 
those  daj's. 

her  shafts 
It  hap- 
came  along 

assistance, 
>fo,  I  thank 

n  that  side 

moved  all 
tartcd  with 
difficulties, 


o. 


the  "Ontario"  beat  the  "Coburg"  into 
Toronto.  This  went  the  rounds  of  the  press 
so  that  parties  from  Montreal  came  up,  bought 
her  and  took  her  to  Montreal  to  run  between 
Montreal  and  Quebec  as  a  mail  boat.  She 
carried  the  mail  in  1843  and  was  called  the 
"  Lord  Sydenham."  She  was  the  first  steamer 
to  run  the  rapids. 

She  was  piloted  by  Indians,  "  Old  Jock  "  and 
'•  Old  Pete  "  being  chief  pilots.  As  no  boat 
had  run  the  Lachine 
rapids  before  that,  it 
was  quite  a  risk  for  the 
owners  as  well  as  for 
the  Indians.  The  pilots 
were  to  have  $1,000 
each  if  she  was  landed 
safely  at  Montreal, 
which  was  done. 

First  a  crib  was  made 
forty  feet  square  with 
pine  floats  ten  feet 
apart,  with  stakes  ten 
feet  long  driven  in 
each  square,  projecting 
downward.  When  all 
was  ready  some  In- 
dians were  sent  to  the 
foot  of  the  rapids  and 
some  were  stationed  in 
the  trees  on  the  side  of 
the  rapids.  Several  In- 
dians towed  the  crib  to 
the  head  of  the  rapids  with  their  canoes  and 
let  go  of  it.  Then  every  Indian  watched  the 
course  it  took  as  the  crib  sped  on  its  way  with 
the  current  of  the  stream.  When  it  reached 
the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  crib  was  turned  over 
and  it  was  found  that  none  of  the  stakec  were 
broken.  That  was  a  positive  indication  that 
there  was  water  enough  to  run  the  "  Ontario" 
through.  The  Indians  then  boarded  the 
steamer.  Each  Indian  piloted  the  "  Ontario  " 
as  far  as  he  had  observed  the  crib's  course. 
The  only  white  man  on  board  wr.c  the  engi- 
neer, who  also,  I  was  told,  received  $1,000. 
This  story  I  got  from  "Old  Joe!:."  v/ho  used 
to  pilot  us  and  who  ran  us  through  the  Lachine 
rapids  nine  times  without  a  mishap. 


As  Mr.  James  Mooney  takes  exception  to 
the  statement  in  connection  with  Captain 
Chapman,  of  Ogdensburg,  I  likewise  take  ex- 
ception to  what  he  says,  though  he  is  right  as 
to  the  "Canada"  and  "America"  running 
the  rapids  before  the  "New  York."  The 
"  Canada  "  and  "  America  "  were  modeled  in 
New  York  and  built  at  Niagara  by  Louis 
Sichaluna,  and  the  joiner  work,  cabins,  etc., 
were  done  by  A.  B.  Wright,  of  New  York 


A   PICNIC  IN   THE   RIFT,    LA  RUE   ISLAND. 


city.  They  were  built  for  the  Great  Western 
railroad,  and  ran  between  Hamilton  and  Cape 
Vincent,  They  were  .ibout  1,100  tons  each, 
27s  feet  keel,  and  fitted  and  furnished  with 
all  conveniences  in  the  way  of  state  rooms, 
etc.  The  boats  did  not  pay  and  were  sold  to 
some  company  to  run  on  a  river  in  the  south. 
They  were  taken  through  the  rapids  in  1858 
or  1859. 

The  "  New  York  "  was  built  at  Clayton  by 
John  Oades,  and  never  belonged  to  the  same 
line  that  the  "Canada"  and  "America  '  did, 
though  she  ran  with  them  in  1856  and  made 
better  time  than  they  could,  and  was  acknowl- 
edged to  be  the  fastest  boat  on  the  lake  and 
river.     She  was  255  feet  keel  and  of  995  tons. 


»• 


;8 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


Her  joiner  work  was  done  by  A.  B.  Wright, 
of  New  York  city,  and  she  was  finished  com- 
plete at  Clayton.  Captain  Chapman  came 
out  in  her  with  William  Gardner,  of  Ogdens- 
burg,  as  chief  engineer  in  1852.  On  her  trial 
trip,  with  machinery  and  everything  new,  she 
made  eighteen  miles  per  hour.  She  made  a 
record,  from  Cape  Vincent  via  the  north  side 
of  Carlton  Island  to  Rock  Island  light,  of 
sixty  minutes.  We  have  no  boats  now  that 
can  do  that  in  seventy-five  minutes. 

The  "  New  York  "  belonged  to  the  Ontario 
and  St.  Lawrence  Steamboat  Company,  and 
hailed  from  the  port  of  Ogdensburg.  This 
company  owned  the  steamer  "  Northerner  "  of 
905  tons,  and  Captain  Chapman  was  a  large 
stockholder  in  them.     These  two  boats,  in 


1859  and  i860,  ran  an  express  line  between 
Lewiston,  Toronto  and  Ogdensburg,  making  a 
daily  line  and  stopping  at  Cape  Vincent,  Clay- 
ton, Alexandria  Bay,  and  Brockville. 

In  i86i  and  1862  they  were  sold  to  the 
United  States  goverjiment,  and  Captain  Chap- 
man took  them  both  to  Montreal.  William 
Gardner  was  engineer  of  both  boats.  After 
the  government  bought  them  the  "  Northern- 
er's "  name  was  changed,  but  the  "  New 
York's  "  was  not.  She  was  the  flag  of  truce 
boat  at  Fortress  Monroe  during  the  war.  One 
year  ago  she  was  still  running  at  Cape  Breton. 
The  "New  York"  and  the  "Northerner" 
were  run  through  the  Lachine  rapids  by  In- 
dians. I  never  knew  but  one  white  man  to  run 
the  Lachine  rapids,  and  his  name  was  Robuck. 


THE    FRONTENAC    HOTEL   AND    ROUND    ISLAND. 


/^THE  conspicuous  location  of  Round  Island 
^^  has  given  the  ideal  summer  community 
which  adorns  its  shores,  and  the  handsome 
hotel  at  this   point,  the  advantage  of  a  wide 


MR.   H.   VAN    WAGK.NIi.N  S    CUTTACK.   ROUMJ    ISLAMJ 


reputation.  It  is  the  first  stopping  place  for 
travel-laden  steamers  which  pass  down  the 
river  from  Cape  Vincent  or  Clayton. 

Round  Island  was  bought  about  seventeen 
years  since  by  an  association  of  gentlemen, 
largely  from  Central  and  Northern  New  York, 
who  proposed   to  found  a  resort  connected 


with  the  Baptist  church.  Many  prominent 
people  purchased  lots  in  picturesque  sites  and 
built  handsome  cottages. 

The  island  has  always  been  popular,  and 
the  hotel,  in  the  course  of  time, 
became  too  small  to  accommo- 
date the  many  families  who 
made  it  their  usual  summer 
home.  Six  years  ago  tlie 
charter  of  the  association  and 
its  property  were  acquired  by 
a  number  of  wealthy  cottagers 
and  others  resident  there,  and 
a  large  amount  of  money  was 
expended  in  building  wings  to 
the  hotel,  remodelling  its  in- 
terior and  in  refurnishing  and 
equipping  the  house  through- 
out, and  at  the  present  time  it 
enjoys  a  reputation  with  the 
best  class  of  the  travelling  pub- 
lic secona  to  none  upon  the  river. 

Round  Island  is  now  entirely  unsectarian. 
No  cheap  excursions  are  permitted  to  land 
there.  The  island,  with  its  beautiful  rambles, 
walks  and  vistas,  is  maintained  for  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  lioccl  guests  and  the  inmates  of  its 
seventy  cottages. 


THE  CHIPPEWA   YACHT  CLUB. 


79 


The  Frontenac  Hotel  is  conducted  by  Mr. 
Y,  D.  Dickinson,  of  Syracuse,  a  veteran  and 
most  popular  host.  Kapp's  excellent  orches- 
tra, of  Syracuse,  is  engaged  each  season. 

The  Frontenac  is  provided  with  a  handsome 
elevator,  sideboard  in  the  cafe,  billiards,  pool, 
ten-pins,  tennis  field,  base-ball  grounds,  boat 
livery,  telegraph  and  express  offices,  in  fact, 
every  convenience  of  a  thorough  modern  hotel. 

The  voyageur  down  the  river  approaching 
the  head  of  Round  Island  is  interested  in  the 
handsome  summer  homes  half  hidden  among 
its  verdure.  Those  upon  the  head,  showing 
large  expenditure  of  money  in  their  construc- 
tion and  environment,  are  owned  by  Mr.  Jacob 
Hayes  and  Mr.  Hubert  Van  Wagenen,  of  New 
York,  and  Hon.  J.  J.  Belden,  of  Syracuse. 
Dr.  Geo.  D.  Whedon,  of  Syracuse,  owns 
"  Ethelridge "  upon  the  point.  Along  the 
channel  are  the  cottages  of  Dr.  F.  H.  Stephen- 
son, of  Syracuse;  A.  B.  Schrueder,  of  Syra- 
cuse; E.  M.Henderson,  of  Weedsport;  W.  B. 
Kirk,  of  Syracuse ;  Mrs.  T.  B.  Kirk,  of  Syra- 
cuse; Mrs.  George  Harbottle,  of  Auburn; 
Mrs.  H.  A.  Foster,  of  Syracuse;  H.  S.  Bar- 
bour, of  Watertown;  J.  D.  Squires,  of  New 
York;  D.  H.  Murray,  of  Syracuse;  N.  A.  St. 
John,  Binghamton;  Chas.  E.  Best,  Jordan, 
N.  Y.;  Fred  O.  Lloyd,  of  Syracuse;  Geo.  L. 
Crandall,  of  Binghamton ;  R.  E.  Rindge,  of 
Norwich,  N.  Y.;  Mrs.  S.  R.  Francis,  of  Car- 
thage, N.  \.;  J.  N.  Cloyes,  of  Utica;  Mrs.  J. 
II.  Harris,  of  Syracuse;  Mrs.  J.  G.  Harbottle, 
of  Watertown  ;  C.  C  Laidlaw,  of  Gouverneur, 
N.  Y.;  E.  D.  Sherwood,  of  CamilUis,   N.  ¥.; 


Geo.  M.  Barnes,  of  Syracuse;  E.  L.  Hemin- 
way,  of  Watertown;  Anthony  Lamb,  of  Syra- 
cuse; Fred  Frazer,  of  Syracuse ;  E.  M.  Alle- 
welt,  oi  Syracuse ;  Estate  of  Dr.  Edward 
Bright,  of  New  York;  N.  H.  Burhans,  of 
Syracuse;  L.  V.  Rathbun,  of  Rochester;  Mrs. 
L.  T.  Sawyer,  of  Watertown  ;  Mrs.  Jas.  Eaton, 
of  Syracuse ;  N.  H.  Bulloch,  of  Fisher's  Land- 
ing (below  the  wharf) ;  Mrs.  L  G.  Morehouse, 
of  Syracuse;  C.  H.  Rose,  of  New  York;  and 
S.  V.  R.  Van  Heusen,  of  Syracuse.  At  the 
immediate  foot  of  the  island  are  the  handsome 
and  picturesque  properties  of  John'Dunfee, 
of  Syracuse;  Chas.  A.  Johnson,  of  New  York, 
and  Frank  H.  Taylor,  of  Philadelphia. 

Fronting  upon  the  east  channel  are  the 
pretty  cottages  built  by  B.  W.  Wrenn,  of  Sa- 
vannah, and  those  of  A.  E.  Kilby,  of  Car- 
thage; E.  H.  Myers,  of  Carthage;  C.  W.  Sikes, 
of  Philadelphia,  N.  Y.;  A.  J.  Chester,  of  Al- 
bany; Mrs.  Samuel  Branaugh,  of  Carthage; 
Mrs.  E.  A.  Perrine,  of  New  York  ;  Mrs.  H.  H. 
Mills,  of  Syracuse,  and  Mrs.  Mary  D.  Kin- 
mouth,  of  Hamilton,  N.  Y. 

C.  S.  Ball,  of  Syracise,  Robert  Andress, 
Mrs.  Denny,  of  Watertown,  and  some  others, 
have  cottages  upon  the  inland  avenues  of  the 
island. 

The  association  controlling  Round  Island 
and  the  Frontenac  Hotel  is  composed  of  A. 
C.  Belden,  President;  Chas.  A.  Johnson, 
Vice-President;  Chas.  A.  Myers,  Secretary. 
These  gentlemen  are  trustees,  together  with 
Hubert  Van  Wagenen,  Jacob  Hays,  E.  D. 
Dickinson  and  Frank  H.  Taylor. 


THE  CHIPPEWA  YACHT  CLUB. 


\/^AS  organized  in  1895.  Its  location  is 
Vv  indicated  by  its  name,  and  its  races 
and  sailing  bouts  are  usually  held  in  Chippewa 
Bay,  some  ten  miles  below  Alexandria  Bay, 
a  region  fast  coming  into  favorable  notice. 
Many  fine  improvements  have  been  made 
there,  and  more  are  in  contemplation.  The 
ottic  ers  of  this  yacht  club  for  1895  are:  Com- 
modore, Hon.  George  Hall;  Vice-Commodore, 
James   G.    Knap;-  Secretary  and  Treasurer, 


John  E.  Bell;  Measurers,  S.  Gilbert  Averell, 
A.  R.  Porte,  W.  H.  Post.  The  Executive 
Committee  are  the  Commodore,  Vice-Com- 
modore, the  Secretary-Treasurer,  A.  R.  Porte 
and  John  C.  Howard.  The  Regatta  Com- 
mittee are  D.  H.  Lyon,  Frank  Chapman  and 
E.  L.  Strong. 

List  of  Members. — Hon.  George  Hall,  James  G. 
Knap,  John  E.  Bell,  S.  Gilbert  Averell,  A.  R.  Porte, 
Capt.  Frank   Chapman,    D.    H.  Lyon,   Edward    L. 


8o 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  R/J'ER. 


«• 


Strong,  Wm.  H.  Post,  Charles  P.  Lyon,  John  C. 
Howard,  J.  Y.  Chapin,  A.  K.  Strong,  Dr.  J.  R. 
Dickson,  Geo.  B.  Sliepard,  T.  F.  Strong,  Dr.  J.  H. 
Brownlow,  Chas.  O.  R.  Bull,  John  A.  Seely,  Dr. 
Willard  N.  Bull,  G.  S.  Dorwin,  S.  W.  Wilson,  E.  C. 
J.  Smith,  Louis  Hasbrouck,  A.  R.  Herriman,  George 
F.  Darrow,  S.  H.  Gardinier,  H.  A.  Lord,  E.  F. 
Seymour,  IL  F.  James,  Levi  Hasbrouck,  Col.  E.  C. 
James,  Mrs.  R.  A.  Chapinan,  Dr.  S.  E.  Brown,  Jas. 
R.  Bill,  Philip  B.  Hasbrouck,  all  of  Ogdensburg; 
Ford  Jones,  Brockville,  Ont.;  Ehner  S.  Jones,  Brock- 
villc,  Ont.;  George  Clayes,  Brockville,  Ont.;  Frank 
Clayes,  Brockville,  Ont.;  E.  H.  Bisset,  Brockville, 
Ont.;  R.  W.  Travers,  Brockville,  Ont.;  N  Gilbert, 
Brockville,  Ont.;  L  P.  Wiser,  Prescott,  Ont.;  Wm. 


L.  Webster,  New  York;  W.  IL  Hutchinson,  New 
York;  H.  A.  McGruer,  New  York;  Lewis  Wallace, 
New  York;  Lester  Wallace.  New  York;  John 
McGruer,  New  York;  W.  W.  Jackson,  New  York: 
U.  v.  Brokaw,  New  York;  C.  M.  Englis,  New 
York;  Wm.  Taylor,  New  York;  Joseph  M.  Knap, 
New  York;  Edgar  D.  Knap,  New  York;  J.  Dav 
Knap,  New  York;  Henry  Chapman,  Morristown. 
N.  Y.;  W.  F.  Sudds,  Gouverneur,  N.  Y.;  J.  H. 
Preston,  Gouverneur,  N.  Y.;  Henry  Sudds,  Gouver- 
neur, N.  Y.;  C.  B.  Orcutt,  Elizabeth,  N.  J.;  Clintcni 
McKenzie,  Elizabeth,  N.  J.;  Mrs.  Clinton  McKenzie, 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.;  Percy  McKenzie,  Elizabeth,  N,  J.; 
S.  S.  Thompson,  Elizabeth,  N.  J.;  Dr.  F.  R.  Bailey. 
Elizabeth,  N.J. ;  Dr. VV. J.  Herriman,  Rochester,  N.Y. 


i       I      IJ 


COOPER'S    "PATHFINDER"  AND    STATION    ISLAND. 


/^THE  reader  has  probably  read  Cooper's 
^  thrilling  tale  of  "  The  Pathfinder."  He 
locates  the  main  incidents  of  the  tale  at  what 
he  calls  "Station  Island,"  but  does  not  at- 
tempt to  locate  the  exact  spot,  save  that  it  was 
among  the  islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  archi- 
pelago. But  he  relates  some  historical  facts 
connected  with  his  island,  and  leaves  but  little 
doubt  that  it  was  one  of  those  now  designated 
as  the  "  Admiralty  Group  "  situated  in  the 
Canada  channel,  above  Gananoque. 

The  time  described  was  during  the  French 
and  English  war  of  1755-60.  At  that  time 
the  English  held  Oswego,  while  the  French  had 
control  of  the  lakes,  with  a  strong  fort  at 
Frontenac,  now  Kingston,  and  a  detachment 
at  Gananoque.  The  French  received  their 
supplies  from  Montreal  in  batteaux,  which 
came  up  the  river  in  detachments,  numbering 
ten  or  more  batteaux  each.  The  English  kept 
spies  on  the  lookout  for  the  arrival  of  these 
convoys  of  stores  and  provisions  with  a  view 
to  their  capture.  To  that  end  "  Station 
Island "  had  been  fixed  upon  as  a  suitable 
place  for  a  rendezvous  from  which  to  waylay 
the  expected  fleet  of  batteaux. 

Now  what  are  the  historical  facts?  First, 
the  French  posts  were  supplied  from  Montreal 
by  means   of  batteaux;  second,  the   British 


troops  attempted  to,  and  did  at  various  times, 
capture  some  of  these  batteaux,  with  their 
stores;  third,  that  the  British  had  some  hiding 
place  among  the  islands,  from  which  they  sal- 
lied forth  and  made  their  captures,  if  possible. 
Now  it  is  evident  that  this  very  group  of 
islands  would  be  the  one  chosen  for  such  a 
hiding  place  for  several  reasons.  First,  it  was 
nearer  Oswego;  second,  the  chances  of  recap- 
ture were  lessened;  third,  the  opportunity  of 
watching  the  approach  of  a  fleet  of  batteaux 
unseen.  If  the  hiding  place  had  been  chosen 
in  the  Lower  or  Naval  group,  the  chance^  ui' 
a  recapture  would  have  been  materially  in- 
creased. Now  how  was  "  Station  Island  " 
situated .''  So  that  a  lookout  could  be  kept  on 
the  river  below ;  so  that  the  French  post  on 
the  main  land  could  be  watched;  so  that  the 
island  itself  could  hardly  be  distinguished 
from  those  by  which  it  was  surrounded.  One 
island  in  this  group  fulfills  the  conditions,  and 
there  is  not  another  among  all  the  Thousand 
Islands  that  does;  and  hence  the  presumption 
that  the  island  is  here,  and  that  it  borders  on 
Bostwick  channel.  It  is  not  possible  to  locate 
the  exact  island,  but  all  considerations  point 
to  one  of  the  Admiralty  group  as  the  ore 
designated  by  Cooper,  and  it  was  certainly  in 
the  Canadian  channel. 


> 


ison,  New 
s  Wallace, 
jrk;  John 
lew  York: 
iglis,    New 

M.  Knap, 
■k;  J.  Day 
lorristown. 

Y.;  J.  H. 
Is,  Gouver- 
J.;  Clinton 
McKenzie, 
beth,  N.J.-. 
,  R.  Bailey, 
lester,  N.Y. 


1 


ous  times, 
with   their 
)me  hiding 
;h  they  sal- 
if  possible. 
'  group   of 
for  such  a 
'"irst,  it  was 
s  of  recap- 
ortunity  of 
batteaux 
sen  chosen 
chance?  ui' 
teriaily   in- 
Island  " 
36  kept  on 
ch  post  on 
so  that  the 
5tinguishfd 
ied.      One 
itions,  and 
Thousand 
resumption 
borders  on 
le  to  locate 
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IS  the  ore 
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A   GLANCE  AT  CLAYTON. 


8t 


A  GLANCE  AT  CLAYTON. 


,/2^R0M  an  unimportant  village  for  many 
I  years,  Clayton,  through   its   being  the 

river  terminus  of  the  R.  W.  &;  O.  R.  R.  sys- 
tem, has  become  a  town  of  frequent  mention, 
and  its  history  must  surely  be  interwoven  into 
any  story  that  treats  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
archipelago  —  for  it  stands  directly  in  the 
midst  of  the  best  fishing 
grounds,  fronting  the  river  at 
a  spot  of  peculiar  loveliness, 
and  right  in  the  eye  of  the 
beholder  looms  up  the  most 
beautiful  chateau  upon  the 
whole  stream  —  a  spot  of  such 
natural  beauty  as  well  as  of 
nrtistic  adornment  that  its  su- 
perior is  not  often  met  with  in 
tiiis  country  —  actually  rival- 
ing some  of  the  most  renowned 
villas  upon  the  "  wide  and 
winding  Rhine."  The  mag- 
nificent St.  I>awrence  here 
ajjpears  more  like  a  lake,  with 
wooded  shores  and  far-away 
vistas  which  reveal  other  beauties.  Here  the 
"rush  and  dash  from  Niagara's  leap"  and 
Ontario's  wide  expanse  arc  subdued  to  nar- 
rower limits,  inviting,  entrancing,  complete. 

Clayton  has  excellent  schools,  fine  churches, 
an  unusually  enliglUened  and  "  up  to  date  " 
jiopulation,  superior  hotels  —  one  of  tliem,  the 
Walton,  a  very  old  and  always  well-kcjit  estab- 
lishment—  a  fair  local  trade  that  calls  for 
good  stores  and  the  usual  accommodations  of 
a  river  town,  including  boat-building  t'acilities 
and  good  wharves  for  handling  freight  and 
passengers.  Less  than  an  hundred  years  ago 
the  site  where  Clayton  stands  was  an  unbroken 
wilderness  —  a  region  too  insignificant  to  pos- 
sess even  a  name.  A  creek  and  bay  form  a 
natural  boundary,  and  in  the  year  1802  a  Mr. 
liartlett  built  a  log  house  for  himself  and 
family  about  half  a  mile  from  the  mouth  of 
the  creek.  The  place  selected  was  near  a 
precipitous  bluff  that  attains  in  one  place  an 


altitude  of  nearly  too  feet.  This  was  the  first 
building  in  what  is  now  the  town  of  Clayton. 
One  year  later  a  French  Canadian  erected 
a  rude  hut  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek, 
which  he  occupied  alone.  He  subsisted 
wholly  by  hunting  and  trapping  on  the  creek, 
which  then  abounded  in  game.     During  the 


MRS.   CARLISLE  S   COTTAGE,  GRENNELL    I'ARK. 


winter  of  the  same  year  a  severe  storm  came 
on.  As  no  smoke  arose  from  the  lone  hut  on 
the  other  side  of  the  creek,  the  Bartletts  made 
a  search,  but  no  trace  of  the  Frenchman  could 
be  found.  The  following  spring  his  body 
was  found  and  buried  beneath  the  dark  cedars 
that  lined  the  banks  of  the  creek.  The 
Frenchman  gave  his  name  to  the  locality, 
which  was  called  "  French  creek  "  for  many 
years. 

Time  passed  on,  nothing  breaking  the 
silence  of  the  woods  until  the  commencement 
of  hostilities  in  the  war  of  1812. 

At  that  time  the  whole  line  of  frontier,  from 
Oswego  to  St.  Regis,  a  distance  of  over  250 
miles,  was  placed  under  the  military  command 
of  Jacob  Brown.  One  November  afternoon 
in  1813,  when  an  American  force  with  a  small 
flotilla  were  nearing  French  Creek,  they  were 
attacked  by  the  British.  Capt.  McPherson, 
of  the  American  company,  took  possession  of 


82 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


the  high  bluff  near  Bartlett's  clearing,  and  re- 
turned the  enemy's  fire  with  American  spirit, 
quickly  repulsing  them.  A  second  attempt 
was  made  by  the  British,  but  with  no  better 
result.  Three  new-made  graves  indicated 
the  burial  places  of  the  martyrs  of  the  fight, 
and  the  place  was  named  "  Bartlett's  Point." 

A  few  years  later  a  number  of  families 
located  on  the  bay  at  the  mouth  of  Frencli 
creek,  forming  a  small  settlement. 

In  1823  a  mail  service  was  established,  and 
the  name  of  *' Cornelia  "  was  given  the  post- 
office. 

In  1 83 1  the  present  township  was  set  off  from 
the  towns  of  Orleans  and  Lyme  and  named 
Clayton,  in  honor  of  J.  M.  Clayton,  United 
States  Senator  from  Delaware,  a  devoted  Whig. 

The  village  had  scarcely  began  to  develop 
when  it  was  regarded  as  possessed  of  facilities 
for  an  important  business  center. 

The  rafting  business  was  started  by  Jesse 
Smith  and  E.  G.  Merick.  Shortly  after- 
wards Merick  &  Fowler  engaged  in  the  busi- 
ness of  ship  building  under  the  management 
of  John  Oades.  Some  of  the  finest  boats  on 
the  great  lakes  and  river  were  constructed  in 
the  old  shipyard  at  Clayton. 

This  was  a  great  "  boom "  for  the  little 
town.  Streets  were  laid  out  and  buildings 
sprang  up  on  both  sides  of  French  creek.  A 
rude  stone  bridge  was  constructed  at  its  mouth 
to  meet  the  demands  of  travel  and  trade. 
Enterprise  was  the  prevailing  spirit,  and  the 
interests  of  the  town  grew  stronger  with  each 
returning  year. 

A  school  was  in  progress,  and  an  exhorter 
once  a  week  warned  the  people  against  covet- 
ousness.  When  the  little  town  emerged  into 
the  forties  it  could  boast  of  thirty-two  families, 
three  stores,  a  school  house,  and  post  office. 
Thus  we  draw  an  accurate  view  of  Clayton  in 
its  infancy,  and  from  the  present  we  may 
observe  the  fruits  of  its  developement. 

The  changing  years  have  brought  new  in- 
terests and  rapid  growth.  The  elegant  resi- 
dences of  the  town  speak  of  refined  taste,  and 
its  excellent  school  and  five  beautiful  churches, 
indicate  an  intellectual  people.  As  a  place 
.0  permanently  settle,  it  is  unsurpassed  for 


STEAM  VAC /ITS  FOR  HIRE. 


H 


business  facilities.  The  modern  business 
blocks  and  suitable  stores  testify  to  a  good 
patronage.  The  town  has  two  reliable  banks, 
the  First  National  Bank  and  the  Exchange 
Bank. 

Among  the  popular  business  people  we  name 
the  following:  H.  F.  Barker,  C  E.  Reese, 
James  Johnston,  Chas.  Ellis,  Wm.  Clark,  Jas. 
Hayes,  H.  F.  Dewey,  E.  A.  Burlingame,  G. 
M.  Hungerford,  D.  C.  Porter,  A.  G.  Holstein, 
(;.  E.  &  J.  O.  Thibaiilt,  W.  H.  Consaul,  John 
Foley,  W.  H.  Thorpe,  A.  E.  Wood,  S.  E. 
Howard,  Mrs.  A.  Locklin,  F.  L.  Hall,  W.  W. 
Hawes,  A.  Williams,  J.  F.  Graves,  M.  Atwood, 
S.  Breslow,  Thos.  Esselstyne,  G.  W.  McCombs. 

H.  S.  Barker's  and  G.  H.  McKinley's  busi- 
ness blocks  are  among  the  best  in  town;  and 
Mr.  McComb's  novelty  store  is  superior  to 
any  of  its  kind  in  Northern  New  York.  One 
of  the  best  bakeries  in  the  county  is  managed 
by  John  Ross  —  a  very  active  business  man, 
a  one-armed  veteran.  A  very  successful  busi- 
ness man  is  G.  M.  Skinner,  manufacturer  of  his 
trolling  spoon,  which  is  of  national  reputation. 

Capt.  S.  G.  Johnston,  ship  builder,  has 
been  owner  and  builder  of  some  of  the  most 
successful  steam  yachts  on  the  river.  The 
firm  of  Strough  oi  Brooks,  lumber  merchants 
.and  contractors,  carry  on  an  extensive  busi- 


ness. Both  are  reliable,  active  men,  and  their 
business  is  unusually  prosperous. 

Wilbur  &  Wheelock  are  noted  for  modeling 
the  daintiest  and  most  artistic  skifTs  on  the 
river,  and  they  also  keep  a  boat  livery. 

As  a  summer  resort  Clayton  ranks  among 
the  first.  This  is  due  to  its  beautiful  situa- 
tion, the  health-giving  properties  of  its  air, 
easy  access  to  all  points,  and  its  being  in  the 
midst  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  its  popu- 
larity increases  every  year. 

Among' its  first-class  hotels  are  the  Walton 
House,  with  its  enviable  reputation  of  lavish 
comfort  and  generous  fare,  and  the  Hubbard 
House,  lately  rebuilt.  The  spacious  new 
Windsor,  with  its  pleasant  apartments  and 
well-furnished  tables,  is  first-class  in  all  re- 
spects. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hawes  are  making  new 
friends  every  year. 

The  Hayes  House  and  Pastime  have  ex- 
cellent tables  and  home-like  comforts. 

Much  more  might  be  written,  and  Clayton 
really  deserves  a  more  extended  description. 
But  we  must  leave  it,  crowning  its  beauty 
with  lovely  Calumet,  the  elegant  summer 
home  of  Chas.  G.  Emery,  one  of  New  York's 
millionaires,  whose  benevolence  has  deservidly 
given  him  the  name  of  Clayton's  benefactor, 

N.  M.   K. 


STEAM  YACHTS  FOR  HIRE. 


INDEPENDENT  of  the  many  private  yachts 
up  m  the  river,  doing  service  among  the 
islands  forming  the  St.  Lawrence  archipelago, 
we  name  the  following  in  service  at  the  close 
of  1895: 

The  Captain  Visger,  Capt.  Walter  L.  Visger; 
The  Crescent,  Cipt.  John  Bolton;  The  Sophia, 
Capt.  H.  W.  Visger;  The  Spry,  Capt.  Dingman;  The 
loNK,  Capt.  Gifford  Benson;  The  Massena,  Capt. 
Dana;  The  Ada  B.,  Capt.  G.  R.  Brown;  The  Pas- 
TI.ME,  Capt.  Bertrand;  The  H.  P.  Bigelow,  Capt. 
Thos.  Comstock;  The  Edith  May,  Grand  View 
Park  Ferry;  The  Edgewood  Ferry,  by  Andrew 
Thompson;  The  SiRius,  Capt.  Derian;  The  F.  S. 
Lavng.  Capt.  D.  Wagoner;  The  Valletta,  Capt. 
John  Comstock;  The  Gen.  W.  B.  Franklin,  Capt. 
Fitz  Hunt;  The  Juniata,  Capt.  A.  C.  Dukelin;  The 
Minnie,  Capt.  Wm.  Westcott;  The  Nettie,  Capt. 


W.  E.  Smith;  The  Claude  S.,  Capt.  S.  Griffin;  The 
Olivia,  Capt.  C.  Hunt;  The  Alert,  Capt.  G.  Wil- 
son; The  E.  A.  Van  Horn,  Capt.  Jasper  Ellis;  The 
JuNiTA,  Capt.  Rattra)';  The  Little  Mack,  Capt. 
Hudson;  West.minster  Park  Ferry,  Capt.  S. 
Reed. 

Besides  the  above,  which  run  for  hire,  there 
are  many  very  fine  steam  yachts  owned  by 
wealthy  private  parties.  Among  the  finest  of 
these  is  the  yacht  owned  by  Mr.  Haydon,  at 
Fairy  Land,  built  by  Herreshoff,  doubtless 
the  most  costly  yacht  on  the  river.  The 
Lotus  Seeker,  owned  by  Mr.  Holden,  at 
Thousand  Island  Park,  is  also  a  beautiful  boat, 
and  claimed  to  be  the  fastest  on  the  river. 
The  Captain  Visger  and  the  Sophia  are 
both  beautiful  models,  and  are  very  fast. 


A   SOUrEXIIi  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


CAPT.  ANDREW    H.   MILLER. 

Captain  Miller,  commanding  the  "Em-     on  the  great  lakes  until  1872,  when  he  bewail 
pire  State,"  the  largest  steamer  of  the  Thou-      to   command    one    of  the    Thousand    Island 


sand  Island  Steamboat  Company,  is  one  of  the 
ablest  and  most  highly  respected  of  the 
steamer  captains  on  tlie  St.  Lawrence.  He 
was  born  at  Ca])e  Vincent  May  9,  1S44,  and 
when  14  years  of  age  began  sailing  with  Capt. 
Colman  Hinckley,  Sr.  From  the  river  Capt. 
Miller  went  upon  the  lakes  in  the  service  of 
the   Northern    Transportation    Company,    of 


Steamboat  Company's  boats,  and  has  been  in 
the  employ  of  that  company  as  a  commamk  1 
for  the  past  22  years. 

This  fact  is  an  honorable  test  of  Captain 
Miller's  ability  as  a  navigator,  as  well  as  oi 
his  integrity  as  a  man.  He  is  a  careful  sailor, 
takes  no  risks,  and  knows  the  Thousand 
Island   archipelago    as   one    knows    his   own 


Cleveland,  O.,  and  continued  in  their  employ      bedroom.     He  has  been  remarkably  success- 


seven  years.  When  the  civil  war  broke  out 
he  enlisted  in  the  20th  N.  Y.  Cavalry,  which 
went  into  the  field  under  the  command  of 
Col.  Newton  B.  Lord.  In  1865,  at  the  close 
of  the  war,  and  having  been  honorably  dis- 
charged with  his  company,  Capt.  Miller  re- 
turned to  his  home  and  was  in  the  employ  of 
tlie  Merchants'  Union  Express  Company  for 


ful  and  stands  at  the  head  of  his  profession. 
He  puts  on  no  "airs,"  but  he  is  a  wIioIlsouic 
man  to  know,  and  has  earned  a  fine  reputa- 
tion upon  the  river  for  liis  ability  and  steatl- 
fastness.  In  his  53d  year,  lie  is  as  active  a- 
at  30,  and  nothing  happens  upon  the  "Em- 
pire State  "  that  escapes  Iiis  Watchful  atten- 
tion.    He  is  a  model  commander,  and  popular 


two  years,  1866-67.     He  then  again  returned      with    the    travelling  public.     His  permanent 
to   his   home   and   became  once  more  a  sailor      home  is  in  Kingston,  Ont. 


CAPT.    H.  W.   VISGER. 


This  young  sailor,  commanding  the  steam- 
yacht  "Sophia,"  is  the  son  of  the  veteran  river 
captain,  E.  W.  Visger,  so  long  and  favorably 
known  among  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  the 
first  to  make  excursions  among  them,  in  fact 
the  one  who  first  attempted  to  navigate  what 
is  known  as  the  "Lost  Channel.*' 

H.  W.  Visgsr  was  born  at  Richville,  St. 
Lawrence  county,  N.  Y.,  in  1857.  His  first 
steamboat  experience  was  as  engineer  on  the 
"Cygnet."  He  was  captain  of  the  "Island 
Wanderer"  (now  the  "  Island  Belle'*)  during 
1S79-S0-S1-S2.  He  bought  the  steamer  "R. 
P.  Flower"  in  1883,  and  ran  her  successfully 
as  a  charter  packet  for  several  seasons.  Dis- 
posing of  her,  he  purchased  the  "C  M.  Cross- 
man,"  which  he  sold  in   1893  to  Mr.  H.  R. 


Redfield,  the  wealthy  Hartford  banker.  With 
an  lionorable  ambition  to  keep  pace  with  the 
times,  and  to  show  his  visitors  what  could  be 
done  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  built  the  steani- 
yacht  "Sophia,"  conceded  by  all  to  be  th'- 
finest  boat  for  hire  that  sails  the  waters  of  th/ 
Thousand  Island  archipelago.  This  ha> 
proved  a  good  venture,  for  the  "Sophia," 
like  her  consort,  the  "Captain  Visger,"  ha-, 
sprung  into  a  deserved  popularity,  being  roomy, 
fast  and  new.  The  Visger  family  are  tliiK 
demonstrating  their  superiority  as  navigator-, 
as  well  as  showing  that  the  finest  yachts  car. 
be  built  at  Alexandria  Bay.  They  deser\' 
their  success,  for  they  have  served  the  tra\  - 
elling  public  faithfully,  and  demonstrated  their 
ability  as  builders. 


Those  who  read  our  descriptions  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  steamer  captains  will  not  fail  to 
note  that  Clayton   seems  to   be    the   natural 


MISS    NELLIE    M.    KENDALL. 

habitat  for  sailors,  and  that  four  of  these  ves- 
sel captains  are  named  Kendall — all  good  and 
honest   river-men.      We   do    not    pretend    to 


MISS  NELLIE  M.  KENDALL. 


85 


rj  he  began 
ind  Island 
as  been  in 
ommandcr 

of  Captain 
well  as  oi 
efiil  sailor, 
Thousand 
;  his  own 
ily  success- 
profession, 
whoksonie 
ne  reputa- 
and  stead - 
IS  active  a^ 
the  "Eni- 
liful  atten- 
nd  popular 
permanent 


ker.  With 
;e  with  the 
t  could  be 
the  steam - 
to  be  th- 
iters  of  the 
This  ha> 
"Sophia." 
isger,"  ha^ 
;ing  roomy, 
y  are  thu-; 
navigators, 
yachts  can 
ley  deserv': 
1  the  trav- 
trated  their 


vouch  for  the  reason,  but  wherever  you  find 
sailors  you  find  literary  people.  The  lamented 
Dr.  Holland  was  never  so  hai)py  as  when  he 
was  gathering  ins])iration  for  his  grand  liter- 
ary efforts  by  listenin'^  to  the  talk  of  the 
s.iilormen  and  oarsmep  at  Alexandria  Bay. 
Ho  loved  them  well  enough  to  start  a  fine 
library  for  their  benefit,  which  was  burned  in 


w 


MLSS   NELLIE    M.   KENDALL, 
Clayton,  X.  V. 

the  great  fire  at  that  place  in  1894,  and  has 
never  been  replaced.  At  Clayton  we  have 
Mr.  George  H.  Strough,  a  fine  writer,  but 
with  his  soul  immersed  in  lumber  ;  and  Mr. 
C.  A.  Shaver,  the  noted  school  superintend- 
ent, who  handles  a  facile  and  graceful  pen, 
hut  fools  away  part  of  hi?  time  on  local  poli- 
tics. These  are  men — plain,  unpretending 
men,  and  for  further  illustration  of  these  and 
their  traits  we  refer  the  historical  student  to 
Haddock's  Centennial  History  of  Jefferson 
County,  a  work  ably  written,  which  cost  two 
years  of  the  author's  valuable  time,  besides 
leaving  him  $2,000  in  debt. 


But  all  this  prelude  is  foreign  to  our  pur- 
})Ose  when  we  sat  down  to  write.  What  we 
desired  to  say  was  that  at  Clayton  may  be 
found  quite  a  natural  growth  of  literary  and 
artistic  excellence  as  well  as  so  much  sailor 
ability.  This  literary  taste  we  have  found 
illustrated  in  Miss  Nellie  M.  Kendall,  sister 
to  the  handsome  Kendall  boys.  She  was 
born  on  Point  Pleasant,  in  Clayton  some 
twenty  years  ago,  received  the  benefits  of  the 
excellent  Clayton  public  schools,  and  as  she 
belonged  in  a  '"  nest  of  brothers  with  a  sisttr 
in  it,"  she  was  spared  the  trials  and  hardships 
which  came  to  them.  She  had  the  fields  to 
roam  in,  the  river  to  row  over,  the  golden 
sunsets  to  admire,  the  beautiful  and  romantic 
scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  enjoy..  What 
wonder  that  from  nature  she  looked  up  to 
Nature's  God  and  received  into  her  soul  the 
inspiration  to  love  all  things  good  and  beauti- 
ful. As  years  passed  on,  in  a  distant  city  she 
was  permitted  to  enjoy  associations  with  some 
of  the  best  minds  and  purest  hearts,  and 
learned  that  there  is  no  such  thing  as  "  cor- 
nering" the  market  of  intelligence — that  litera- 
ture is  a  well  where  all  who  are  athirst  may 
come  and  drink  freely.  Under  such  inspiring 
influences  she  learned  to  write  easily  and  well, 
and  so  when  the  author  of  this  book  called 
for  some  one  to  write  up  Clayton  and  many 
of  the  individuals  named  herein,  she  came 
readily  into  the  work  and  has  done  it  well. 
We  give  a  view  of  her  face,  which  does  not  Ho 
her  justice,  for  her  countenance  is  full  of  ex- 
pression, as  her  form  is  full  of  grace  and 
modesty.  She  is  a  native  Clayton  girl,  and 
that  is  saying  a  good  deal,  for  that  vicinity 
has  always  been  noted  for  its  pretty  girls  and 
handsome  sailors.  We  leave  her  in  her 
pleasant  home, 

"  Near  meadows  white,  where  daisies  grow, 
Near  where  St.  Lawrence  whispers  low  ; 
Near  sylvan  dells,  where  Nature  smiles, 
Earth's  paradise,  the  Thousand  Isles." 

J.  A.  H.    , 


■  these  ves- 
11  good  and 
pretend    to 


86 


A   SOUVENfR  or    THE  ST.  /..I  ll'A'EA'C/C  RIVEN. 


ON    HISTORIC  GROUND. 

(From  tlie  ConKreRatlonulist,  Sept.  37,  1S94.) 


O  HOULD  an  American  Walter  Scott  arise 
^Qy  he  would  find  ample  material  for  a  new 
series  of  Waverly  novels  in  the  historic  associa- 
tions of  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  He  would 
find  here  mighty  fortresses  built  by  no  human 
hands,  castles  made  more  secure  by  natural 
bulwarks  than  moat  or  barbican  could  make 
them,  hidden  bays  in  which  a  fleet  might  hide, 
channels  three  hundred  feet  deep  winding  be- 
tween wooded  islands  and  secluded  water- 
ways. Ellen's  Isle,  made  famous  by  the 
Wizard  of  the  North,  is  reproduced  here  in  a 
hundred  forms,  and  Loch  Katrine  has  scores 
of  rivals  at  our  very  door. 

We  have  our  legends  of  battle  and  carnage, 
of  valiant  deeds  by  souls  as  heroic  as  those 
who  wore  the  tartan  and  the  plaid.  We  can 
point  out  a  cavern  hidden  away  beneath  pre- 
cipitous rock  on  a  secluded  island,  which  has 
its  romance  of  a  maiden's  devotion  to  her 
father  hiding  from  bitter  enemies  seeking  his 


life.  To-day  this  Devil's  Oven,  if  not  as 
famous  as  the  little  island  among  the  Tros-,- 
ach's,  is  often  visited  by  thousands,  and  the 
iieroism  of  the  maiden  recalled. 

The  night  attack  on  Deerfield,  Mass.,  in 
1704,  for  the  rescue  of  the  Bell,  and  the  ter- 
rible massacre  of  Wyoming,  were  planned  on 
one  of  these  islands.  Many  of  them  have 
their  tales  of  terror  connected  with  the  P'renc  h 
Rnd  English  and  Indian  wars. 

The  name  of  Bonaparte  is  perpetuated  by 
a  charming  lake  not  far  .away.  The  story  ot 
Joseph,  the  brother  of  the  great  Napoleor, 
and  his  career  in  Northern  New  York  is  as 
romantic  as  any  in  its  history. 

Not  far  away,  too,  is  the  childhood  home 
of  the  famous  singer,  Antoinette  Sterling,  tlic 
be£iuty  of  whose  Christian  chamcter  has  nut 
been  exaggerated.  We  could  go  on  with 
these  illustrations  ad  libitum^  but  space  for- 
bids. 


THE  MEN  I  HAVE  MET  UPON  THE  GREAT  RIVER. 

BY  THOS.  G.  ALVORD,  EX-LIEUT. -GOV.  OF  NEW  YORK. 


/Sk  FRIEND  has  suggested  that  I  could 
r\  write  a  very  interesting  human  history 
of  the  river's  rapid  growth  as  a  sportsman's 
paradise,  a  health-bearing,  exhilarating,  joy- 
inspiring  refuge  for  tired  and  invalid  human- 
ity. It  will  be  readily  conceded  that  in  the 
performance  of  my  task  I  must  omit  mention 
of  many  —  for  the  many  I  have  met  are  legion 
in  number.  And  again,  looking  back  over  a 
period  of  more  than  forty  years,  I  must  un- 
avoidably fail  to  recall  many,  the  mention  of 
whose  names  would  be  of  great  interest.  In 
order  to  do  justice  to  my  own  city  and  to 
scores  of  other  cities  and  towns,  I  would  need 
but  strike   a   few  names   from    their  annual 


directories,  and  then  append  the  corrected 
lists  to  this  article,  to  enumerate  "  The  Men 
I  Have  Met  upon  the  Great  River."  But  to 
accomplish  the  undeilaking  in  some  accejjt- 
able  way  and  v'..  a/i  reasonable  limits,  I  must 
cease  apology  and  explanations,  and  proceed 
with  my  projected  work,  or  I  shall  never 
finish  it. 

I  have  already,  in  another  chapter  in  this 
Souvenir,  had  something  to  say  of  my  fir-t 
experience  on  the  noble  river,  and  I  beg  ag"  n 
to  introduce  to  your  notice  the  Rev.  Pk. 
Bethune,  the  original  fly-caster  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  Need  I  say  that  his  profound 
learning,  his  acknowledged  preeminence  as  a 


THE  MK.'V  I  HAVE  MET  UPON    THE  GREAT  KIl'EN. 


«7 


if   not  as 

the  Tros-.- 

ds,  and  tlio 

,  Mass.,  ill 
nd  the  tcr- 
planned  on 
them  have 
the  FreiK  h 

tetuated  hy 

he  story  ot 

Napoleon, 

York  is  as 

hood  home 
terling,  tlie 
ter  has  not 
50  on  with 
;  space  for- 


e  corrected 
"  The  Men 
!r."  But  to 
Dme  accept- 
mits,  I  must 
md  proceed 
shall   never 

ipter  in  this 
of  my  fii-f 
I  beg  ng"  n 

;  Rev.  Tk. 
of  the   St. 

s    profound 

linence  as  a 


pulpit  orator,  and  withal  his  kindly,  open- 
liearted.  Christian  benevolence  will  reniaiii  a 
j)leasant  remembrance  so  long  as  the  waters  of 
ills  beloved  river  flow  from  the  lakes  to  the  sea. 

The  I)u TTONs,  father  and  sons,  who  gave 
us  the  silken  line  and  the  polished  rotating 
spoon,  will  be  remembered  as  giving  as  much 
of  music  and  harmony  to  their  beloved  pas- 
time as  did  their  unequaled  collection  of 
drum  and  fife,  cymbal  and  hiutboy,  fiddl'- 
aiul  flute  to  their  music-loving  neighbors  in 
"tlie  pent  up  city,"  where  their  memory  is 
ever  green. 

Is  it  necessary  to  make  aught  of  explanation 
in  bringing  Seth  Green  to  your  notice? 
Not  learned  in  schools,  but  an  untiring,  bright 
student  of  nature,  he  read  as  from  an  open 
book  all  the  secrets  of  the  finny  tribe,  over 
whom,  by  the  consent  of  fishes  and  men,  he 
was  the  sole  and  undisputed  ruler.  Educated 
in  the  school  of  Nature,  he  was  Nature's 
nobleman,  with  a  heart  beating  kindly  toward 
all  things  animate. 

Another  noted  individual  is  mixed  in  with 
my  earliest  recollections  of  the  river.  It  is  true 
I  had  never  met  him  there,  for  he  had  visited 
the  bay  for  the  first  and  only  time  the  year 
before  my  first  arrival,  but  every  time  (and 
that  was  often)  I  tried  the  then  super-excellent 
fishing-ground  near  the  foot  of  Grenadier,  I 
was  very  emphatically  told  where  he  had 
lunched  when  fishing,  and  he  had  lunched 
there  so  often  that  the  natives,  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  fact  that  the  much-lunched  island 
lacked  a  name,  solemnly  decreed  that  from 
that  time  and  forever  thereafter  it  should  be 
known  as  '*Van  Buren's  Island."  It  may 
be  that  the  man  is  forgotten,  but  I  believe 
that  it  is  a  matter  of  history  that  he  was  in 
the  cloudy  and  distant  past  once  President  of 
the  United  States;  but,  not  being  reelected, 
he  went  —  fishing.  But  once  I  did  come 
near  to  fishing  in  his  company.  Having  given 
up  his  "job"  at  Washington  and  retired  to 
t!ie  Lindenwold  shades  of  sleepy  Kinderhook 
he,  after  "cradeling  his  buckwheat,"  would 
hie  to  the  lovely  Hudson,  a  short  two  miles 
away,  to  fish.  I  happened  one  day  to  be  the 
guest  of  a  gentleman  who  lived  on  the  bay 


wheri*  "Matty"  was  wont  to  fish;  and  on 
that  day,  he  at  one  end  and  I  at  liie  other  of 
the  bay  —  both  "  Matty  and  myself  —  bobbed 
for  white  perch;  each,  I  am  happy  to  say, 
with  great  success. 

In  the  later  days  of  my  periodical  sojourn 
with  old  man  Grossman,  there  came  thither 
two  of  our  country's  most  distinguished  men 
on  their  way  to  the  haunts  of  the  princely 
salmon  of  the  Sauguenay,  pausing  here  for  a 
few  days  to  tempt  the  springy,  cunning,  sport- 
creating  bass  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Theirs 
was  a  friendship  at  that  time  (somewhat 
clouded  in  later  years)  like  that  of  Damon 
and  Pythias.  Utterly  unlike  in  temperament, 
manners  and  action,  they  were  both,  I  sin- 
cerely believe,  a  unit  in  their  unselfish,  power- 
ful devotion  to  the  best  interests  of  their  coun- 
try in  her  hour  of  sorest  trial  and  direst  need. 
If  in  RoscoE  CoNKLiNG,  that  stubborn,  self- 
will,  uncontrollable  temper,  never-dyingenmity 
to  all  who  dared  oppose  his  will,  had  been 
tempered  and  softened  by  the  suave,  courtly 
and  conciliatory  manners  and  tact  of  Chester 
A.  Arthur  —  in  fine,  if  the  better  qualities  of 
each  had  been  used  to  neutralize  the  failings 
of  both,  it  would  have  added  increased  weight 
to  their  great  deeds  patriotically  done  to  save 
the  Nation's  life.  Humanity  is  frail,  never 
perfect;  but  in  the  world's  picture  ^f  great  men 
the  heads  of  Conkling  and  Arthur  will 
loom  up  as  did  that  of  Saul  among  the  prophets. 

In  the  last  year  of  my  annually  recurring 
stay  at  Alexandria  Bay  I  met  and  fraternized 
with  William  J.  Skinner,  Gen.  Benjamin  F. 
Bruce  and  Franklin  A.  Alberger,  the  three 
Canal  Commissioners  of  the  State,  and  in 
their  company  Nathaniel  S.  Benton,  then 
and  for  twelve  years  Auditor  of  the  Canal 
Department,  who  had  also  during  his  long 
and  busy  life  well  and  worthily  discharged  the 
duties  of  Surrogate,  State  Senator,  United 
States  Attorney  for  ten  years.  County  Judge 
and  Secretary  of  State.  While  they  were 
ostensibly  fishing,  they  v/ere  really  weighing 
and  measuring  the  probabilities  of  the  success 
of  an  attempt  of  the  mighty  river  to  deflect  to 
its  own  channel  on  its  way  to  the  ocean,  the 
rapidly   growing   tonnage   of    the   boundless 


88 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


West,  and  to  steal  it  away  from  our  canals  — 
those  magnificent  artificial  waterways,  alike  *he 
glory  of  the  State  and  the  wonder  of  the 
world,  then  under  their  official  care.  Skinner 
proposed  that  above  where  the  Great  River 
took  its  primal  leap  in  its  heed'ess  flight  o'er 
rocky  barrier  and  through  mountain  gorg,  in 
its  mad  haste  to  meet  the  sea,  to  swerve  the 
mighty  flow  of  its  great  body  of  waters  to  the 
valley  of  that  other  Great  River  the  incom- 
parable Hudson  ;  but  Bruce  and  Alberger, 
with  the  potent  aid  of  Benton,  rolled  the 
mighty  cloud-piercing  peaks  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks  in  his  pathway,  and  sadly  and  reluc- 
tantly Skinner  abandoned  the  attempt.  They 
finally  departed  with  the  satisfying  belief  that 
Nature  had  reared  insurmountable  barriers  to 
the  accomplishment  of  the  river's  dream  of 
victory.  Charon's  boat  has  long  since  ferried 
them  all  across  the  dark  stream,  all  too  soon 
for  them  to  know  that  men  of  their  own  blood 
pull  down  mountains  and  fill  up  seas  with 
nature's  forces  tamed  to  their  bidding.  Already 
that  growing  city  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
greatest  body  of  inland  waters  known  to  the 
world,  demands  and  will  have  an  unbroken 
waterway  to  the  earth-encircling  oceans. 
Proctor  Knott,  with  burning  eloquence,  in- 
tentionally sarcastic,  but  truly  prophetic,  has 
made  enduring  fame  for  DuIv.Hi,  its  own  great 
opportunities,  coupled  with  its  determined 
push  and  energy,  compliment  —  aye,  accentu- 
ate his  unintentioned  prediction.  Our  blood 
cousins  and  friendly  rivals  over  the  border, 
unstintedly  aided  from  the  overflowing  coffers 
of  the  grand  old  Mother  across  the  sea,  are 
already  deeping  and  widening  the  channel 
and  curbing  the  rush  of  the  mighty  river, 
building  with  its  own  stone  and  filling  with  its 
own  water  the  gigantic  steps  overcoming  the 
elevation  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Great  Lakes, 
and  soon  shall  we  view  floating  easily  past  our 
shores  the  mammonth  freight-bearing  ships  of 
the  world,  laden  with  cargoes  at  the  elevator- 
docks  of  Duluth,  2,000  miles  inland  from  the 
western  shore  of  the  Atlantic,  to  be  discharged 
unbroken  at  tlie  distant  ports  of  Europe,  an- 
other 3,000  miles  away  from  where  inland  flow 
and  ocean  tide  meet  to  greet  its  coming. 


In  company  with  the  Commissioners,  and 
often  thereafter,  we  joyfully  welcomed  the 
pleasant  companion,  skilled  angler  and  accom- 
plished clerk  of  Mr.  Skinner,  Mr.  Hopkins, 
of  Little  Falls,  occasionally  accompanied  by 
his  worthy  brothers  in  unity.  Birch  and  La- 
due,  whose  names  and  merited  fame  in  those 
olden  days  scorned  to  be  bound  by  the  nar- 
row valley  of  the  bloody  Mohawk.  Wright, 
the  story  teller  of  Geneva,  the  Jefferson  county 
wit,  and  Walrath,  the  terrible  joker  of 
Oneida,  both  good  men  and  true,  sometime 
Division  Commanders  on  the  Erie,  have  been 
met  sounding  the  depth  and  measuring  the 
breadth  of  its  giant  rival,  the  St.  Lawrence. 

In  x866  I  changed  my  base,  for  at  this  time 
the  habitat  of  the  desirable  game-fish  seemed 
to  have  moved  up  stream,  so  that  the  boys  of 
the  Burg  had  to  pull  against  the  current  of 
Wellesly  Island  in  order  to  successfully  com- 
pete with  their  Clayton  rivals;  at  Clayton 
there  were  then  two  notable  caravanseries, 
the  Hubbard  and  the  Walton,  and  without 
premeditation  I  dropped  into  the  Hubbard, 
where  for  eleven  years  I  was  a  summer  fixture. 
Permit  me  to  say  here  that  both  houses  had 
good  and  well-deserved  reputations,  enhanced 
by  the  fact  that  the  genial  hosts  were  friends 
not  rivals,  and  in  its  best  sense  friends  of  the 
guests  of  both;  a  favor  (often  offered)  asked 
by  the  guest  of  one  at  the  hands  of  the  other, 
was  met  and  granted  promptly  and  cordially. 
I  but  voice  the  sincerely  deep  regret  of  their 
army  of  friends  at  their  untimely  taking  off, 
and  bespeak  for  their  brave  widows  the  kindly 
and  bounteous  su|)port  of  all  those  who  knew 
and  esteemed  their  departed  husbands.  Mrs. 
J(  HNSON  IS  yet  actively  engaged  in  the  care  of 
the  Walton,  tiie  grand  property  left  her  by  her 
husband  ;  and  one  who  has  seen  her  and  re- 
calls the  fact  that  she  was  a  neice  of  General 
William  H.  Angel,  the  broadest  man  Clay- 
ton ever  knew,  will  not  fail  to  gladly  come 
within  the  charmed  circle  of  her  kindly  care 
and  elegant  personality. 

About  this  period  began  the  idea  of  island 
ownership  and  summer  cottage;  among  the 
first  to  adventure  was  a  broker  from  New  York, 
Eugene  A.  Robinson,  who  expended  money 


H<\.f^} 


issioners,  and 
velcomed  the 
jr  and  accom- 
^r.  Hopkins, 
ompanied  by 
RCH  and  La- 
"ame  in  those 
d  by  the  nar- 
k.     Wright, 
ferson  county 
)le    joker    of 
ue,  sometime 
ie,  have  been 
leafuring  the 
Lawrence. 
>v  at  this  time 
-fish  seemed 
t  the  boys  of 
le  current  of 
issfuUy  com- 
;   at  Clayton 
aravanseries, 
and   without 
le  Hubbard, 
nmer  fixture, 
houses  had 
is,  enhanced 
vere  friends 
iends  of  the 
iered)  asked 
>f  the  other, 
d  cordially. 
;ret  of  their 
•  taking  off, 
's  the  kindly 
e  who  knew 
mds.     Mrs. 
the  care  of 
t  her  hy  her 
her  and  re- 
of  General 
man  Clay- 
ladly  come 
indly  care 

a  of  island 
nmong  the 
New  York, 
ded  money 


THOMAS   (;.    AI.VURI). 


free 

and 

man 

met( 

grav 

burr 

O 

of  le 

ativt 

Hap 

day, 

II 

ofter 

in  th 

tor,  ] 

socia 

his  0 

Ir 

met 

point 

tithe 

say  t 

the  n 

boum 

met 

BUTl 

Ends 
R.  S 
Will 
Ellis 

fersor 
State, 
faithfi 
of  the 
smiles 
Some 
ijeeii  I 
dischr 

men  tic 
renew- 
gun  a 
glod  p 
Lawre 
and  L 
losal  1 
aivl  qi 
many 
uul     ] 


THE  MEN  I  HAVE  MET  UPON   THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


89 


freely  on  his  island  in  grading  and  docking 
and  the  erection  of  a  commodious  and  roomy 
mansion.  He  flourished  for  a  time,  an  erratic 
meteor  athwart  the  island  sky,  but  at  last  the 
gravitation  of  his  own  errors  brought  him, 
burnt  out  and  exhausted,  down  to  earth. 

One  of  my  esteemed  colleagues  in  the  halls 
of  legislaiion,  and  later,  an  honored  represent- 
ative of  his  district  in  Congress,  E.  Kirk 
Hart,  of  Orleans,  built  himself  at  an  early 
day,  an  imposing  mansion  facing  Alexandria. 

I  have  sailed  and  angled  on  the  water  and 
often  lunched  on  the  green-sward  of  an  island 
in  the  company  of  the  world-renowned  sculp- 
tor, R.  H.  Park.  His  more  recently  reported 
social  standing,  if  true,  leaves  his  artist  fame 
his  only  claim  for  recollection. 

I  must  occasionally  bunch  the  men  I  have 
met  on  the  r'ver,  and  generalize  their  good 
points,  else  1  will  be  unable  to  enumerate  a 
tithe  of  the  m- .~t  worthy;  so  permit  me  to 
say  that  at  Albany  "as  colleagues,"  and  on 
the  noble  stream  that  marks  the  northwestern 
bounds  of  their  county  "  as  friends  "  I  have 
met  Hon.  William  Dewev,  Hon.  William 

BUTTERFIELD,  J  AMES   JOHNSTON,  Col.  W.  W. 

Ends,  Hon.  George  E.  Yost,  Hon.  Chas. 
R.  Skinner,  Hon.  Henry  Spicer,  Hon. 
William  M.  Thomson  and  Hon.  John  D. 
Ellis,  representatives  of  the  County  of  Jef- 
ferson. In  the  inl6  of  law-makers  of  the 
State,  I  pronounce  ^hem  all  to  have  been 
faithful,  capable  and  hone.t  in  the  discharge 
of  their  official  duties,  ^v,.  rAways  meet  with 
smiles  of  welcome  and  wita  lic^vty  handshake. 
Some  of  them  have  beer.  c:'ll .  1,  and  have  not 
been  found  wanting  in  the  faithful  and  worthy 
discharge  of  other  public  dutie;:. 

It  would  seem  proper  in  thi;  connection  to 
mention  others  of  my  fellow -kgisUtors  who 
renewed  and  strengthened  the  frit  idship  be- 
gun at  Albany  by  kindly  greeting  and  min- 
gled pleasures  on  the  peaceful  islands  of  the  St. 
Lawrence:  Van  Horn,  Van  VALKENiiURGii 
aiul  Low  followed  1'  'vn,  from  Niagara's  col- 
losal  leap,  her  ang»y  waiters,  r.ntil,  peaceful 
and  quiet,  they  gently  !•>.;  ed  i.h<"  shores  of  the 
many  island-gems  of  tiit  Jreat  River;  Burns 
and     Duc'jii,     of     Onondaga,     the    "two 


Charlies,"  Baker,  of  Monroe,  and  Chick- 
ering,  of  Lewis ;  Warner  Miller,  of  Her- 
kimer ;  CoNGDON,  of  Cattaraugus  ;  A.  X. 
Parker,  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  A.  B.  Hepburn, 
of  the  same  county ;  Mooers,  of  Clinton,  and 
Kern,  of  Madison.  All  these  may  well  be 
proud  of  their  public  records.  They  have 
each  enjoyed  with  me  innocent  sport  in  the 
balmy  air  of  the  River  of  Rivers. 

A  prominent  figure  on  the  river  for  many 
years  was  Theodore  S.  Faxton.  I  first 
knew  him  in  my  boyhood-days,  as  one  of  that 
coterie  of  brainy  men  —  Parker,  Butter- 
field,  Childs  and  Faxton  —  controlling  in 
the  office  or  from  the  driver's  box  those  won- 
derful lines  of  post-coaches  which  radiated 
from  Utica,  reaching  East,  West,  North  and 
South,  the  uttermost  parts  of  our  noble  State, 
just  then  emerging  from  a  state  of  nature  into 
an  active,  thriving,  energetic  Commonwealth 
of  civilization  and  progress.  Theodore  S. 
Faxton  was  a  prominent  factor  in  this  march 
of  progress,  keeping  pace  with  the  onward 
step  ;  from  the  position  of  an  humble  stage- 
driver,  he  reached  the  higher  rounds  of  life's 
ladder,  dying  universally  honored  and  deeply 
mourned. 

In  marked  contr£.st,  there  was  another  well- 
known  Utican,  a  frequent  and  ever-welcome 
visitor ;  few  in  the  State  are  ignorant  of  the 
name  and  fame  of  Ammi  D.  Barbour.  For 
many  years,  as  soon  as  the  halls  of  legislation 
were  opened  to  the  annual  inrush  of  the  peo- 
ple's servants,  Barbour,  seeking  no  certificate 
from  an  avowed  constituency,  followed  in 
their  wake  and  quietly,  Trom  choice,  took  his 
stand  "outside  but  close  up  to  the  bulwarks" 
—  a  cool,  level-headed  mind-reader,  with  a 
persuasively  eloquent  tongue  and  a  well-lined 
pocket,  he  forced  upon  the  ignorant  or  lucre- 
loving  representative  the  course  which,  not 
perhaps  leading  to  glory,  would  certainly  be 
to  the  "  material  "  profit  of  the  legislator ; 
active  and  efficient  in  the  ranks,  he  was  early 
made  his  chief  of  staff  by  General  Tweed,  and 
finally  became  the  undisputed  King  of  the 
Lobby.  Apart  from  his  discreditable  calling, 
Barbour  was  a  man  entertaining  and  inter- 
esting ;  he  was  the  best  posted  of  all  others 


90 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


on  the  political  history  of  parties  as  well  as 
the  inner  character  of  politicians,  and  he  had 
the  rare  Hiculty  of  an  easy  and  pleasant  re- 
cital. Above  all  else,  in  private  life  he  was 
respected  and  esteemed  by  his  neighbors  as 
upright,  honest  and  correct  in  his  family  and 
social  relations  and  business  dealings.  He 
was  an  enthusiastic  angler,  but  never  wooed 
the  finny  people  except  his  worthy  wife  and 
favorite  grandson  enhanced  his  enjoyment  by 
their  presence  and  participation. 

I  have  met,  with  great  pleasure  and  intel- 
lectual profit,  Judges  of  every  grade,  who, 
hailing  their  vacation  with  the  hilarity  and 
abandon  of  the  school  boy,  have  hastened  to 
doff  the  ermine,  and  donning  the  well-worn 
habiliments  of  secular  davs,  concealing  the 
dignified  brow  beneath  the  broad-brimmed 
palm-leaf,  have  sought  the  balmy  air  and  cool 
waters  of  the  Great  River  to  recuperate  their 
jaded  minds  and  weary  bodies.  First,  in 
strict  compliance  with  legal  rule,  and  in  due 
order  of  judicial  precedents,  we  welcome, 
marching  forward,  hand  clasped  in  hand,  those 
two  inseparable  disciples  of  Walton,  Chief 
Judges  Andrews  and  Ruger,  whose  names 
are  written  on  a  more  enduring  scroll  than 
this  fleeting  note.  I  refrain  from  marring, 
by  any  attempt  of  mine,  to  laud  their  fame. 
We  have  met  the  pleasant  countenances  of 
Calvin  E.  Pratt  and  his  able  and  eccentric 
namesake,  Daniel.  They  each  worthily  rep- 
resent the  honor,  dignity  and  learning  of  the 
Supreme  Court,  but  they  are  boys  again  as 
they  dart  in  and  out,  around  and  about,  the 
rock-bound  and  grass-covered  islands  of  the 
Great  River. 

I  must  not  forget  that  there  resides  in  the 
Summer  days,  in  his  tasteful  cottage  erected 
on  consecrated  ground  —  he  would  select  no 
other  —  my  fellow  townsman  and  friend, 
Georgk  N.  Kennedy.  He  needs  no  eulogy 
at  my  hands,  for  he  is  proving  for  himself,  by 
his  untiring  industry  and  acknowledged  pre- 
eminence at  the  bar,  tlie  folly  of  that  legisla- 
tive dictum,  "that  a  man's  ability  and  power 
for  intellectual  work  and  honorable  toil  ceases 
at  the  age  of  seventy  years." 

I  recall  two  other  gentlemen  of  this  grade 


of  judges  —  one  still  in  harness  —  both  in  de- 
served public  esteem,  whose  pleasant  smile 
and  friendly  grip  have  been  seen  and  felt  on 
the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  Charles 
Mason  and  Pardon  C.  Williams.  It  was 
here  that  Pete:^  B.  McLennan  acquired 
that  calm  min'^  and  sound  judgment  marking 
his  course  on  the  bench  to-day. 

As  County  Judge  and  a  colleague  in  tlie 
Constitutional  Convention  of  '67-8,  Member 
of  Congress,  Secretary  of  State  and  Stale 
Senator,  the  mere  recital  of  his  official  honors 
stamp  Homer  A.  Nelson,  of  Dutchess,  as  an 
able  and  trusted  public  man,  and  I  can  testify 
that  he  was  a  keen  and  successful  angler,  and, 
by  natural  sequence,  a  polished  gentleman. 
Jt'  iOME  Fuller,  of  Monroe,  was  another 
fei  '  ■  member  in  the  Convention  of  '67-8, 
and  cital  of  his   official  positions,  all 

filled  ...  "nd  well,  are  sufficient  testimony 
of  his  acknowledged  worth  and  character. 
He  has  filled  the  additional  positions  of  County 
Judge  of  Monroe,  Territorial  Judge  of  Min- 
nesota, Member  of  Assembly  and  State  Sena- 
tor, as  well  as  that  of  successful  angler  on  the 
bonny  St.  Lawrence.  The  legal  learning, 
sound  judgment  and  righteous  administration 
of  justice  which  marked  the  judicial  lives  of 
Judges  Van  Vorst,  of  New  York,  and  Smith, 
of  Cortland,  were  never  lessened  by  their 
keen  appreciation  and  enjoyment  of  the  un- 
equaled  attraction  of  our  summer  paradise. 

Last,  but  not  least,  comes  the  beaming  face 
of  that  true  hearted  and  broad  minded  son  of 
Madisqn,  once  its  honored  Judge,  Chas.  L. 
Kennedy. 

I  had  firmly  resolved  early  in  my  life  on 
the  river  that  whenever  the  opportunity  of- 
fered to  suit  my  taste  and  not  wholly  empty 
my  pocket,  I  would 

"  Be  monarch  of  all  I  surveyed, 
With  none  my  right  to  dispute  ; 
From  the  center  all  around  to  the  sea, 
The  lord  of  the  fowl  and  the  brute  "— 

in  the  shape  of  an  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence. 
My  eye  always  rested  lovingly  and  hopefully 
on  an  island  in  the  broad  channel  immediately 
opposite  to  and  about  one-half  mile  dis- 
tant  from    the    docks    of   Clayton.     In  the 


THE  MEN  I  HAVE  MET  UPON    THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


91 


"nitive   directory"    it   had   been  christened 
"  Shot  Bag  "  to  keep  company  with  a  near-by 
island  and  islet  called  respectively  "  Powder 
Horn  "  and  "  Cap   Box,"  each  so  designated 
from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  one  of  these 
necessary  appendages  to  the  shot  gun.     I  early 
became  acquainted  with  the  owner,  a  gentle- 
man by  the  name  of  Lawrence,  a  successful 
hat,  cap  and  fur  dealer  in  the  city  of  New  York. 
By  the  way,  it  might  as  well  be  noted  right 
here,  that  he  was  an  accomplished  fly-caster, 
his  daily  catch  of  beauties  being  seldom  sec- 
ond in  number  in  the  friendly  struggle  of  the 
jovial  anglers  for  preeminence.     A  pleasant, 
genial  companion,  he  is  gone  never  to  return, 
but  he  is  not  forgotten.     To  return  to  my 
island.    For  a  number  of  years  I  was  advised 
that  it  was  not  for  sale,  and  other  spots  were 
urged  upon  my  attention,  but  I  still  hoped  for 
my  first  choice,  and  finally  declining  health 
induced  my  friend  to  make  me  a  proposition 
to  part   with   it    at   the   price  of  $400.     At 
length,  confirmed  in  his  own  belief  by   the 
judgment  of  others  whom  he  considered  ex- 
perts, that  the  island  would  measure  at  least 
four  acres,  he  closed  the  deal  with  myself  and 
son-in-law,  James  A.    Cheney,  at  ^100  per 
acre  ;  and  when  the  survey  demonstrated  that 
$170  paid  for  i  70-100  of  an  acre  (the  area 
of    the   island),  with    great    disappointment, 
somewhat  forcibly  expressed,  but  with  unhesi- 
tating  adherence   to   his   pledged   word,  the 
owner   executed   the   deed   of  transfer.      In 
family  convention — from  which  I  was  care- 
fully  excluded  —  the  name  of    "Shot  Bag" 
was  dropped,  and  the  newly-acquired  summer 
home  was  rechristened  "  Governor's  Island." 
It  was  never  under   any  "  government,"  but 
the  denizens,  adults  and  children  alike,  took 
in  health,  happiness  and  all   edibles   within 
reach.     There  the  cannon    roared,  the  flags 
waved,  the  beacons  shone,  not  with  hostile 
intent,  but  as  a  cordial  welcome  to  the  com- 
ing, and  a  kindly  farewell   to  the  departing 
friend.     These  pleasant  days  covered  seven- 
teen joyous  sumni'.rs.     That  island  is  one  of 
the  brightest  gems  'hat  adorn  the  water-encir- 
cled diadem  of  the  Great  River.     It  has  now 
fallen  under  the  dominion  of  one  who,  with 


rare  taste  and  skill  combined  with  a  judicious 
expenditure  of  wealth,  is  constantly  adding 
new  attractions  to  the  wonderful  beauties  of 
America's  peerless  summer  resort.  A  hearty 
welcome  to  Charles  G.  Emery.  Others 
have  met  him  on  the  Great  River,  and  we  all 
trust  that  many  happy  summers  still  await 
him  on  its  restful  bosom. 

We  have  not  deserted  the  river  of  our  love 
and  ou>-  pride  ;  but,  a  little  nearer  its  source, 
on  a  projecting  point  on  old  Grindstone  —  its 
primary  rocks  still  showing  the  deep  scars  of 
the  Glacial  Period — "  Lindenwold  "  displays 
its  unmatched  beauties,  and  the  old  starry  flag 
of  "  Governor's  Island,"  undimmed,  waves 
over  it,  and  the  doors  of  the  same  modest  but 
roomy  cottage,  stand  wide  open  to  all  friends. 

Excuse  this  apparently  wide  departure 
from  the  original  text.  It  was  partly  necessi- 
tated as  a  means  by  which  to  bring  into  de- 
served notice  my  friends  Lawrence  and 
Emery,  and  partly  to  authorize  the  use  of 
my  well-filled  cottage  registry,  containing  the 
names  of  "  men  I  had  met  upon  the  Great 
River,"  thus  rejuvenating  a  failing  memory 
and  rescuing  from  oblivion  the  river  history 
of  many  who  should  not  be  forgotten. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Reese,  of  Albany,  was  first 
met  on  the  river,  on  the  inside  of  St.  John's 
Island,  fighting  manfully  for  and  rejoicing  over 
the  capture  of  his  first  muskalonge,  a  beauty 
of  over  thirty  pounds  in  weight;  the  occasion 
made  us  fellows,  and  began  (for  me)  a  pleasant 
acquaintance,  renewe'l  almost  yearly  for  many 
summers  past.  This  eloquent  divine  is  ever 
welcome  to  Clayton,  for  he  never  fails  to  in- 
terest crowded  audiences  from  the  local  pulpit 
on  the  appointed  rest-days  from  secular  labor. 
The  Doctor  is,  like  all  good  anglers,  whole- 
souled,  genial  and  an  exceedingly  interesting 
raconteur. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Calthrop,  hailing  from  the 
Central  City,  fulfilling  strictly  and  conscien- 
tiously his  clerical  duties,  figures  also  as  astrono- 
mer, expert,- and  peerless  billiardist  and  chess- 
player, and  excels  in  each.  While  at  home 
he  (rather  too  often)  reads  from  the  Sun,  dire 
storm,  destructive  blizzard,  drenching  rain  or 
parching  drouth,  his  presence  in  the  valley  of 


92 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


the  St.  Lawrence  always  insures  us  beautiful 
sun-shine,  placid  waters,  and  abounding  game 
for  the  angler. 

Once  upon  a  time  there  came  into  the  leg- 
islative halls  from  the  home  of  Conkling,  a 
worthy,  honest  man,  who  answered  equally 
and  readily  to  either  of  the  familiar  names  of 
"  Uncle  David  "  or  "Apple  Barrel  "  Gray. 
His  heart  was  set  up  )n  the  passage  of  his  only 
bill;  it  was  a  bill  ''  To  regulate  the  size  of 
Apple  Barrels."  Passing  through  the  ordeal 
of  the  appropriate  committee,  it  came  before 
tiie  full  body  of  the  Assembly  for  discussion 
and  amendment.  The  naughty  boys  of  that 
body  offered  and  adopted  so  many  incompre- 
hensible and  inconsistent  amendments,  that 
soon  the  honest  old  man  did  not  know  "  where 
he  was  at."  He  appealed  to  me  —  to  whom 
he  had  somehow  been  attracted — to  solve  the 
difficulty;  I  undertook  the  task,  and  soon  the 
chairman  announced,  that  "  what  was  left  of 
the  bill  was  ordered  to  be  engrossed  for  a 
third  and  final  reading  ;  "  with  bulging  eyes 
and  bated  breath.  Uncle  David  asked  "what 
was  left  .'• "  He  was  blandly  informed,  that 
the  title  was  intact,  but  that  the  staves,  hoops 
and  heads  of  the  barrel  were  missing.  He 
was  at  first  somewhat  inclined  to  blame  me  for 
the  catastrophy,  but  he  was  persuaded  to  visit 
me  in  my  summer  home,  where  the  Leihean 
effect  of  the  "  pellucid  "  waters,  and  the  electric 
shock  transmitted  to  his  body  by  the  strike  of 
the  bass  through  the  line  attached  to  his  sub- 
merged hook-,  cured  him  of  all  suspicion,  and 
he  became,  .:-;d  still  is,  one  of  my  warmest 
friends;  but  I  have  occasionally  heard  him, 
when  overcome  with  sleep,  after  a  heavy  lunch 
on  a  grass-covered  island,  mutter  "  My  next 
Apple  Barrel  Bill  shall  have  the  hoops  nailed 
on,  and  the  heads  nailed  in,  ajid  I  zvill  attend 
to  it  myself." 

On  the  river  for  many  years  the  most 
marked  man  to  be  met  was  a  Mr.  Selleck, 
from  Newburgh.  He  was  evidently  a  well  edu- 
cated person,  and  as  a  conversationalist,  enter- 
taining and  instructive.  Though  totally  blind 
he  went  everywhere  without  a  guide,  with  a 
firm  and  assured  step.  He  would  walk  from 
the  hotel  to  the  landing,   and  enter  his  boat 


witho'.'  aid,  rnd  he  seldom  returned  at  night- 
fall with  a  smaller  catch  of  the  finny  tribe 
than  a  full  average  of  the  return  captures  of 
the  day.  Report  said  that  in  his  business  ;!s 
designer  and  manufacturer  of  artistic  and 
decorated  furniture,  he  had  but  few  equals  and 
no  superiors. 

I  must  not  omit  the  military  arm  of  the 
Nation.  My  register  records  their  presence 
singly  and  in  iquads,  veteran  corps,  and  regi- 
ments, Kentucky  colonels  and  "  high  privates," 
with  waving  baiiners  and  martial  music.  They 
were  peacefully  inclined,  however;  the  bivouac 
and  battle-field  were  memories.  They  march 
erect  and  step  proudly  to  the  beat  of  the  drum, 
save  when  tempting  forage  was  uncovered; 
then  "  double  quick "  and  rapid  rush  broke 
down  all  lines,  and  discipline  was  ignored. 
From  the  many  (few  can  be  named  "Facile 
Princeps  "),  stands  forth  the  gallant  Slocum. 
Not  on  the  battle  field,  but  when  white-robed 
peace  smiled  on  the  beloved  country  he  fought 
tc  save,  he  laid  him  down  to  die.  History 
will  keep  ever  green  the  sacred  memory  of 
'1."  >  patfioi  soldier. 

Make  way  for  the  heroic  Sniper,  leading  to 
the  peaceful  banks  and  enticing  islands  of  the 
Great  River  the  few  remaining  veterans  of 
that  noble  regiment,  which — when  three  of  its 
gallant  number  had  fallen  with  the  flag  they 
died  to  save,  raising  that  starry  emblem  from 
the  dying  hands  of  its  last  defender,  bearing 
it  proudly  forward — he  rallied  to  victory;  the 
sods  of  the  valley  now  press  upon  his  breath- 
less form,  but  in  the  memory  of  the  multitude 
who  but  knew  him  to  love  him,  the  patriotic 
deeds  of  General  Gustavus  Sniper  will  en- 
dure forever. 

The  name  of  General  Davies  stands  high 
on  the  roll  of  fame  among  the  noted  cavalry 
leaders  in  the  late  Civ'l  War,  his  clarion  voice 
and  flashing  sabre  gave  victory  to  his  gallant 
troopers  in  many  a  well  fought  fray;  he  is  the 
same  general  on  the  waters  of  the  Great  river; 
cool,  determined,  untiring,  he  strikes  for  the 
royal  muskalonge,  and  the  trophies  that  adorn 
his  wigwam  are  large  in  size  and  great  in 
number. 

The  erect  and  noble  form  of  the  "  Hero  of 


THE  MEN  I  HAVE  MET  UPON   THE  GREAT  RIVER. 


93 


will  en- 


Hero  of 


Fort  Fisher"  looms  above  the  \v'aves  of  his 
native  river;  General  in  war,  he  is  now  guar- 
dian in  peaceful  days,  of  that  ark  of  safety, 
the  Constitution  of  our  fathers,  he  so  bravely 
helped  to  rescue  from  destruction,  and  stands 
as  St.  Lawrence's  sentinel  on  the  ramparts  of 
the  Nation's  capitol.  Though  an  eye  was 
cheerfully  lost  amid  the  scenes  of  battle,  he 
still,  with  one,  single  to  his  duty,  fights  bravely 
to  protect  and  perpetuate  for  his  country  the 
rights  so  nobly  defended  on  many  a  bloody 
field.  All  iionor  and  praise  to  General  New- 
ton Martin  Curtis. 

There  is  a  ''Wvlie"  man,  whose  counte- 
nance is  afamilar  one  on  the  long  reaches  and 
deep  bays.  Do  not  be  deceived  by  surmising 
that  the  "  D.  D."  which  the  name  carries  with 
it  stands  for  "  Doctor  of  Divinity."  He  is  too 
wily  and  a  little  too  wicked  for  that ;  but  he 
was  a  good  soldier  and  loyal  man  when  the 
nation  needed  good  soldiers  and  loyal  men  to 
compel  and  perpetuate  an  unbroken  Union, 
and  he  is  well  entitled  to  be  called  "  General." 
The  only  bad  mark  on  his  character  ever  dis- 
covered was  his  attempt  to  carry  off,  on  a 
wager,  a  basket  of  champagne,  as  the  reward 
of  the  superiority  of  his  catch  (with  his  own 
unaided  rod  and  reel),  in  the  number  of  law- 
fully sized  bass  by  one  day's  fishing,  over  that 
of  an  antagonist  (bound  by  the  same  require- 
ments). He  apparently  won  the  match  by  a 
very  narrow  margin,  and  announced  the  vic- 
tory to  his  shouting  comrades  with  wilder 
shouts  than  theirs.  But  a  few  hours  of  sober 
reflection  brought  swift  repentance,  and  on 
bL'nded  knee  he  humbly  confessed  that  a 
brother  conspirator  from  one  boat  and  a  venal 
guide  from  another,  with  no  regard  for  law- 
ful weight,  had  tumbled  into  iiis  craft  the 
larger  number  of  his  reputed  victims,  and  he 
tearfully,  but  manfully,  rolled  into  the  cottage- 
door  of  his  competitor,  the  coveted  prize, 
lie  has  been  forgiven,  and  hopes  are  strong 
that  by  continued  repentance  of  past  deeds  of 
wickedness  and  firm  resolve  of  an  honest  fu- 
ture he  may  yet  be  allowed  to  write  "  D.  D." 
as  well  in  rear  as  in  front  of  his  patronymic, 
and  thus  wipe  out  forever  any  sinister  mean- 
ing to  the  honored  name  of  "  Wylie." 


Seventeen  years  have  passed  away  since 
William  H.  Vanderhilt  and  the  lamented 
Weuster  Wagner  came  here  to  spy  out  the 
land.  Hoth  have  passed  to  t;ie  "  beyond." 
but  their  keen  business  eyes  —  we  ha^e  reason 
to  know  —  took  in  all  the  beauties  and  possi- 
bilities of  the  grand  [Jamorama  spread  before 
their  vision,  and  the  fruits  of  that  visit  are 
clearly  noticeable  in  the  increased  comfort 
and  ease  of  access  hither  from  all  parts  of  the 
Union,  and  under  the  wise  and  able  manage- 
ment of  their  successors  this  will  not  be 
abated,  but  improved  and  amplified. 

Not  clothed  in  trappings  of  war  but  in  the 
habiliments  of  peace,  we  look  on  the  face  and 
admire  the  soldierly  bearing  of  one  of  the 
elite  of  that  crack  regiment,  New  York's  only 
yth,  Chris  Wolf,  an  island-dweller  and  ever 
a  welcome  comrade.  The  quiet,  unobtrusive 
Hicks,  witli  pleasant  wife  and  daughter,  not 
only  guards,  but  makes,  with  cow  and 
chicken,  homelike  and  enviable,  the  upper 
gate  of  our  archipelago. 

Scarcely  fifty  years  ago  1,500  of  the  Thou- 
sand Islands  of  this  "-reat  river  lay  upon  its 
glassy  waters  in  the  .,arb  of  Nature's  clothing, 
save  where,  on  the  larger  ones,  blackened 
stumps  marked  the  incipient  effort  of  the 
husbandman  or  the  ruthless  swath  of  the 
wood-devouring  steamer,  then  first  invading 
the  peaceful  waters.  To-day,  in  quiet  bower 
and  shady  nook,  on  bold  promontory  or  wide- 
spread lawn,  in  single  sites  and  in  varying 
groups,  from  lower  Grenadier  to  upper  Wolf, 
reaching  as  an  outlying  sentinel  beyond  the 
line  where  lake  and  river  join,  tiny  cottage 
and  palatial  mansion  mark  an  almost  continu- 
ous city  of  grandeur  and  beauty  —  the  im- 
posing Crossmon  at  one  extrem.ity,  and  the 
towering  Frontenac  midway  to  the  deep  On- 
tario, inclose  many  other  gorgeous  resting 
places  as  homes  for  the  flitting  sojourner.  As 
the  swift-darting  inhabitants  below  the  water's 
surface,  so  on  its  bosom  in  almost  equal  num- 
bers shoot  hither  and  thither  the  ever-restless 
steamers  —  many  at  stated  intervals  on  regular 
duty  bound,  many  with  banners  flying  and 
gladsome  music,  laden  with  the  peojile  from 
deserted   town    and    villaiie.    breathinc    the 


94 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


balmy  air  and  drinking  in  the  gorgeous  beau- 
ties of  the  Great  River,  as  with  twinivling  feet 
and  glad  shout  they  greet  its  glories.  The 
trim-built,  lavishly-furnished,  flag-enveloped, 
swift-running  yachts,  alive  with  their  crews  of 
summer  residents,  add  to  the  wild  carnival  of 
pleasure  and  happiness,  and  human  shout, 
shrill  whistle,  sharp-clanging  bell  and  barbaric 
music  drive  the  rightful  owners  of  the  waters, 
frightened  and  alarmed,  to  the  lowest  depths 
and  darkest  caves  of  their  watery  kingdom. 

Now  many  of  these  many  men  (and  lovely 
women,  too,  God  bless  them!)  "I  have  met 
upon  the  Great  River."  Time  and  space  alike 
forbid  a  mere  recital  of  their  names;  I  must, 
therefore,  be  content  with  a  brief  notice  of  a 
few  others  who  have  been  foremost,  and  who 
have  not  yet  ceased  their  loving  labors  in 
adding  to  Nature's  wonderful  work  on  this 
unequaled  river. 

The  widely-known  and  sincerely  lamented 
scholar  and  scribe,  the  late  Dr.  Holland,  is 
with  us  no  longer;  but  his  warm  love  for  his 
"Bonny  Castle"  has  descended  to  his  surviv- 
ing family,  who  still  enjoy,  and  each  returning 
season  make  more  beautiful,  the  delightful 
spot  he  loved  so  well. 

The  Havdens,  Pullman,  the  large-hearted 
Browning,  the  coal  king  of  the  Lehigh  valley, 
the  denizens  of  Westminster  Park,  and  many 
others,  still  intent  upon  gilding  the  refined 
gold  of  their  incomparable  Bay,  all  bear  faces 
I  have  met  upon  the  beautiful  River.  I  have 
met  many  of  the  men  wlio  summer  in  assured 
safety  and  peaceful  comfort  under  the  Chris- 
tian banner  of  the  itinerant  Methodists;  among 
them  my  home  neighbors,  none  of  whom  need 
go  from  their  Central  City  to  find  witnesses 
to  their  worthy  and  Christian  character. 
(Judge  Kknnedv  I  have  already  named) 
Weeks,  Holden,  Penn,  Lee,  Si'raguk,  and 
scores  of  others,  are  men  I  am  proud  to  say 
"  I  have  met  upon  the  Great  River." 

I  even  own  up  that  I  knew  Sam  Grinnell, 
when  he  pastured  his  cow  on  his  island,  now 
studded  with  many  beautiful  cottages,  and 
joyously  welcomed  the  thirsty  dwellers  on 
Prohibition-i,ooo-Island-Park  to  his  choice 
dispensary  of  contraband  whisky. 


Round  Island  is  peopled  with  many  worthy 
of  notable  mention.  Across  its  head,  facing 
the  on-coming  waters,  stand  four  dwellings 
First,  the  modest  villa  of  Dr.  Wheden,  tlie 
pioneer  of  the  island-dwellers,  followed  by 
Messrs.  Haves,  Van  Wagonen,  and  James  J. 
Belden,  ex-mayor  and  congressman,  who, 
applying  well-earned  wealth  with  sound  judg- 
ment and  artistic  taste  to  their  work  of  pleas- 
ure, have  erected  houses  of  comfort  and  de- 
light, the  very  embodiment  of  the  poet  and 
the  painter's  dream  of  loveliness.  Another 
chief  of  the  Central  City,  Wm.  B.  Kirk,  has 
applied  a  portion  of  his  wealth  to  the  adorn- 
ment of  this  beautiful  island,  and  these  have 
found  willing  comrades  to  aid  in  making  tiiis 
cosy  hamlet  a  beauty  spot  on  the  Great  River. 

As  I  pen  these  lines  so  many  faces  crowd 
upon  my  reviving  memory,  that  my  task  must 
be  abruptly  closed  or  it  will  become  endless. 
A  few  more  of  the  multitude  of  those  who  de- 
serve recognition  and  I  have  done. 

No  one  who  frequents  the  river  can  fail  to 
know  that  always  hilarious  crowd,  hailing  from 
Albany,  headed  by  Jim  Story,  John  H. 
QuiNBY,  and  Charlie  Gay.  At  home,  staid, 
steady,  model  business  men.  On  the  river — 
never  offensive — but  full  to  the  brim,  of  fun 
and  frolic,  good  anglers  and  genial  companions. 

There  comes  periodically  to  the  river  a  quiet, 
unobtrusive  but  worthy  and  interesting  gentle- 
man. It  is  said  that  "  Good  wine  needs  no 
Bush,"  but  a  troll  on  the  water  and  a  luncli 
on  the  shore  are  made  more  enjoyable  and 
satisfying  whenever  Mr.  "Bush,"  of  Buffalo 
counts  as  one  of  the  party. 

We  entreat  Lucius  Moses  to  bring  back  to 
the  river  himself  with  his  delightful  family; 
we  yearn  to  hear  once  more  the  swish  of  his 
wonderful  cast,  as  the  fly  tempts  the  bass  to 
strike  "  twenty  yards  away." 

In  writing  the  name  of  Mr.  Browning,  of 
New  York,  there  came  back  to  me  the  re- 
membrance of  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Scott, 
who  is  an  annual  visitor,  seldom  failing  a 
yearly  return.  Although  a  city  man,  he  is 
old  fashioned  in  dress  and  manners,  though 
never  other  than  a  gentleman.  Though  easily 
approachable,  he  is  naturally  taciturn;  an  un- 


THE    RI\ER    C.U'7AL\S. 


95 


tiling  angler,  wind  and  wave  never  staying 
him.  One  day  near  the  head  of  Hemlock,  he 
was  at  anchor  still-fishing  for  bass;  a  good 
sized  perch  was  hooked,  and  he  rapidly  drew 
him  up,  and  was  rendered  almost  helpless  by 
the  onrush  of  a  thirty-pound  muskalonge, 
striking  for  his  dangling  perch.  The  big 
fellow  landed  with  the  perch,  in  the  boat,  and 
with  the  aid  of  the  guide  was  killed.  After  a 
few  moments  delay,  S.,  recovered  sufficiently 
to  ejaculate  "Great  Scott,"  th-^  only  words 
(the  guide  avers)  that  he  uttered  until  he 
reached  the  dock  at  Clayton,  three  miles  away. 

Clustered  on  and  around  the  hoary  head  of 
old  Grindstone,  the  Morgans  and  the  Lov- 
ELLS,  of  New  York,  have  brought  refinement 
and  artistic  skill  to  adorn  their  summer  homes, 
and  in  themselves  have  added  acknowledged 
worth  to  the  goodly  society  of  our  Summer  City. 

It  would  be  very  wrong  and  unjust  if  the 
men  and  women  who  dwell  in  inclement  win- 
ter as  well  as  in  gentle  summer  on  the  banks 
of  this  world-famed  strear.i  *vere  not  recorded 
among  the  throng  of  those  "  I  have  met  upon 
the  Great  River."  In  all  ranks  and  condi- 
tions among  them,  they  are  the  hosts  and 
helpers  of  their  welcome  summer  visitors ; 
kind,  considerate,  helpful,  never  exacting  or 
mercenary,  they  are  always  ready  and  oblig- 


ing.     Their   character   and   conduct    are    in 

marked    contrast   with    the   reported    greed, 

venality  and  robbery  at  other  noted  places  of 

summer  resort.     I  am  glad  to  proclaim  that  I 

have  met  and   have  learned  to  respect   and 

honor  these  constant  dwellers  in  the  valley  of 

the  Great  River. 

If  life  and  health  are  spared,  I  trust  to  meet 

many  old  and  to  greet  many  new  faces  in  the 

coming  years,  enjoying  renovated  health  and 

needed  relaxation  from  the  ills  and  cares  of 

busy  life  amid  the  scenes  of  grandeur  and 

beauty  nowhere  so  sure  to  be  found  as  "  Upon 

the  Great  River." 

Thomas  G.   Alvord. 

Syracuse,  March,  1895. 


We  think  no  man  or  woman  can  rise  up 
after  reading  Governor  Alvord's  unique  and 
entirely  unapproachable  remarks  upon  the 
people  he  has  met,  without  a  better  feeling 
towards  all  mankind,  and  a  most  grateful 
sense  of  appreciation  of  this  honored  man, 
whose  green  old  age  has  met  with  no  blight, 
and  whose  frosted  head  bears  no  possible  in- 
dication of  any  frost  of  heart.  With  thousands 
who  love  him  and  revere  his  matchless  ability, 
we  reecho  his  own  wish  that  he  may  yet  be 
spared  for  many  years  to  visit  the  Great  River. 


THE   RIVER  CAPTAINS. 


NINO,  of 

the   re- 

SCOTT, 

failing  a 
n,  he  is 
thougli 
gh  easily 
an  un- 


^Y  reference  to  the  pages  in  this  book 
devoted  to  pictures  of  men  whom  we 
have  thought  should  be  shown,  the  reader 
will  find  many  captains  of  St.  I-awrence 
steamers.  We  have  tried  to  give  portraits  of 
them  all,  for  they  are  a  peculiarly  deserving 
set  of  men,  good  sailors,  mild  in  manner,  and 
accommodating  in  disposition.    These  i)ictures 


have  been  procured  from  some  of  them  un- 
willingly, and  the  short  sketches  of  their  lives 
we  have  worried  out  of  tliem,  sometimes  by 
extreme  urgency.  They  are  really  too  modest 
for  this  progressive  age,  but  we  give  them  as 
they  appear  in  every-day  life,  and  we  think 
them  a  fine  looking  lot  of  men. 


A  BONAPARTE  IN  NORTHERN  NEW  YORK. 


[TliF,  following  excellent  article  is  not  exactly  history,  though  germain,  and  its  insertion  in  ihi^ 
volunic  is  considered  proper  and  instructive  because  most  of  the  people  named  were  long  ago  residents  t 
Cape  Vincent,  a  town  of  many  memories,  which  stands  at  the  very  head  of  those  islands  we  are  attemptii.^ 
to  describe  and  to  give  their  histories,  as  well  as  to  make  brief  mention  of  those  superior  men  who  fuM 
settled  on  and  near  them,  and  were  certainly  the  first  to  sound  their  praise  and  introduce  them  to  the  aittn- 
tion  and  knowledge  of  the  American  people.] 


/^"M  E  advent  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  r  Count 
^1  de  Survillicrs  (as  he  desired  tobe  nown), 
into  Northern  New  York  and  upon  the  St. 
Lawrence,  is  scarcely  explainable  without  some 
reference  by  way  of  introduction  to  Count 
James  Donalien  Le  Ray  de  Chauinont,  who  was 
the  son  of  Count  Donation  Le  Ray,  the  intimate 
friend  of  Franklin  and  Adams,  and  Morris, 
and  a  devoted  adherent  to  the  fortunes  of  the 
United  States,  wlio  in  a  time  of  the  utmost 
need  imperiled  his  great  fortune  by  coming  to 
our  assistance.  He  it  was  who  sent  a  ship- 
load of  powder  to  IJoston;  who  furnished 
clothing  for  La  Layette's  army,  and  fitted  out 
three  vessels  of  war  to  join  the  tleet  under 
Commodore  Jean  Paul  Jones. 

Previous  to  the  elevation  of  Joseph  Bona- 
parte to  the  thrones,  first  of  Naples  and  then 
of  Spain,  he  and  young  Le  Ray  were  students 
at  the  celebrated  school  of  Juilly,  near  Paris; 
here  their  acquaintance  ripened  into  an  inti- 
macy which,  altliough  interrupted  by  succeed- 
ing events,  did  not  wholly  cease,  and  so  we 
find  it  renewed  at  a  time  when  the  friendship 
of  a  Le  Ray  was  not  to  be  despised,  even  by 
a  Bonaparte,  tiiough  twice  a  king.  The  young 
Le  Ray,  intimate  at  his  father's  house  with 
such  men  as  Franklin,  Adams  and  Morris,  had 
early  learned  lessons  of  Republican  wisdom, 
and  understood  how  to  sympathize  with  the 
infant  States  in  their  struggle  for  freedom. 
His  intercourse  with  these  gifted  statesmen 


did  much  to  perfect  a  character  naturally 
superior,  and  of  which  an  intimate  ac(piaint- 
ancc  wrote  in  after  years  as  follows:  "  He  had 
a  strong  tnind,  great  penetration,  sound  jiulg- 
nient,  a  warm  and  affectionate  heart,  and  .1 
noble  soul.  He  was  guided  througli  life  bv  .1 
high  and  chivalrous  integrity."  It  was  relate' 1 
that  on  one  occasion  a  difference  arose  betwci.:i 
the  elder  Le  Ray  and  Robert  Morris,  then  jt 
the  court  of  France.  An  umpire  was  to  1  <: 
chosen,  and  Robert  Morris  at  once  selettid 
Mr.  Le  Ray's  own  son;  the  case  was  stated, 
and  a  decision  in  favor  of  Mr.  Morris  was  the 
result.  Tlie  citizens  of  Jefferson  and  Lewis 
counties,  N.  Y.,  owe  much  of  their  prosperit\ 
to  his  enlightened  and  liberal  managemeir; 
and  by  the  citizens  of  Jefferson  county  especi- 
ally he  is  affectionately  remembered  for  I-.i^ 
public-spirited  improvements,  his  dignifRd 
and  courteous  demeanor,  and  the  sympatl.y 
he  never  failed  to  express,  not  only  in  word-, 
but  practically,  for  whatever  concerned  tlic 
public  welfare.  He  fully  sympathized  wit'i 
all  that  his  father  did  to  aid  the  colonies  in 
their  struggle  with  Great  Britain,  and  upon 
him  it  finally  devolved  to  effect  a  settlement 
with  them.  It  was  a  task  of  great  difiicuhy. 
The  depreciation  of  paper  money,  and  tl.c 
differing  currencies  of  the  States,  were  ob- 
stacles almost  insurmountable.  Tearing  hin,- 
self  from  the  seductions  of  the  most  elegnnt 
court  in  Europe,  and  from  the  near  proFpcci 


A  BONAPARTE  AV  AOA'TJ/E/iN  NEW    YORK. 


97 


tion  in  il!i<; 
residents  '  i 
;  attemptli.^ 
Ml  who  tii^i 
to  ihe  autn- 


naturally 
:  acquaint- 

"  He  had 
)and  jtul.;- 
:art,  and  a 
;li  life  by  a 
was  relate! 
se  bet\vci.:i 
ris,  then  at 
was  to  le 
:c  selected 
I'as  stal(.(i, 
ris  was  tiie 
and   Lew;^ 

prosperity 
nagement; 
ity  especi- 

d  for  hi> 
dignitad 

sympatl'.} 

in  words, 
:erned  tlie 
lized  wi'i'i 

olonies  in 

and  upon 
settlement 

difficulty. 

,  and  llie 

were  ol)- 

iring  hin,- 
■st  elegant 

•  proppt.it 


of  a  hrilliant  marriage,  he  sailed  for  the  United 
States,  to  distinguished  citizens  of  which 
Franklin  had  given  him  letters;  and  yet,  not- 
witistanding  his  talents  and  energy,  strength- 
enec  by  all  the  influence  of  Franklin,  anu 
Morn.-:,  and  Adams,  it  was  not  until  1780  that 
a  settlement  was  effected  ;  just  in  time  to  save 
his  father  from  a  humiliating  bankruptcy. 

While  in  the  United  States  he  became  ac- 
quainted with  two  men  who  largely  influenced 
his  subsetiuent  career, —  Gouverneur  Morris 
and  Count  de  La  Foret,  Consul-General  of 
France, —  who  induced  him  to  make  heavy 
purchases  of  land.  In  company  with  the 
latter,  he  purchased  a  large  tract  in  Otsego 
county,  and  established  as  his  agent  there 
Judge  Cooper,  father  of  the  great  novelist. 
With  the  former  he  made  extensive  pur- 
chases in  Northern  New  York,  and  by  reason 
of  these  purchases  it  was  that  Joseph  Bona- 
parte came  upon  the  scene.  In  1790,  young 
Le  Ray  became  a  naturalized  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  and  married  the  daughter  of 
Charles  Coxe,  Esq.,  of  New  Jersey,  returning 
to  France  the  same  year.  Between  that  and 
1810,  he  had  several  times  visited  the  United 
States  ;  returning  to  France  in  that  year,  he 
setded  upon  his  estates  in  Touraine,  and  busied 
himself  in  settling  his  affairs  in  Northern  New 
York.  The  last  meeting  for  more  than  a 
decade  between  young  Le  Ray  and  Joseph 
Bonaparte,  was  on  the  occasion  of  the  signing 
of  the  treaty  between  France  and  the  United 
States  at  Morte  Fontaine,  September  30,  1800, 
at  which  time  they  dined  together.  Fifteen 
years  later  came  the  downfall  of  Napoleon, 
and  with  him  that  of  his  family.  Hearing 
that  Joseph  was  at  Blois,  M'  Le  Ray  hastened 
to  offer  his  friendship.  He  was  warmly  wel- 
comed, and  the  intimacy  of  former  years  was 
renewed. 

One  day  while  at  dinner,  a  train  of  wagons 
passed  the  window  near  which  they  were 
sitting.  Joseph,  turning  to  M.  Le  Ray,  said: 
"  Mon  ami,  I  remember  that  you  have  spoken 
to  me  of  your  large  possessions  in  the  United 
States.  Do  you  still  hold  them  ?  If  so,  I 
should  like  to  exchange  for  a  part  of  them 
some  of  the  silver  that  I  have  in  those  wagons, 


which  may  be  pillaged  at  any  moment.  Take 
four  or  five  hundred  thousand  francs,  and  give 
me  the  ecpiivalent  in  land."  This  M'  Le  Ray 
declined,  saying:  "  It  is  impossible  to  make  a 
bargain  where  I  alone  know  the  facts.  "  Oh," 
sa'H  Joseph,  "  I  know  you  well,  and  I  rely 
more  upon  your  word  than  upon  my  own 
judgment." 

A  bargain  was  soon  entered  into,  the  terms 
of  which  were,  that  for  200,000  francs  the 
elder  Le  Ray  would  give  Joseph  Bonaparte  a 
letter  to  his  son  Vincent,  then  in  the  United 
States,  instructing  him  to  show  to  the  ex-king 
a  certain  tract ;  when,  if  approved  of  by  him 
after  seeing  it,  the  sale  would  be  confirmed. 
If  not  approved,  the  money  was  to  be  returned. 
The  bargain  was  consummated  with  a  slight 
change  in  the  terms  of  payment. 

Some  writers  have  asserted  that  Joseph 
Bonaparte's  farewell  to  France  was  an  esca- 
pade ;  but  whether  true  or  not,  he  reached 
the  United  States  in  1815,  and  Northern  New 
York  in  i8i8.  Of  his  career  in  New  Jersey 
and  elsewhere,  this  account  has  nothing  to  do, 
as  it  proposes  to  deal  with  his  affairs  in 
Northern  New  York  and  not  elsewhere,  unless 
it  may  be  incidentally.  On  arriving  in  the 
United  States  he  assumed  the  title  of  Count 
de  Survilliers,  by  which  name  and  title  only 
he  desired  to  be  known.  His  purchase  in- 
cluded the  greater  part  of  the  town  of  Diana, 
in  Lewis  county,  together  with  portions  of 
several  towns  in  Jefferson  county,  lying  prin- 
cipally in  the  valley  of  the  Black  River  and  on 
the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence river;  the  whole  amounting  to  150,000 
acres,  which  was  paid  for  in  diamonds  and 
silver.  Subsequently,  owing  to  the  fact  that 
diamonds  had  fallen  to  half  their  former  value 
in  market,  other  arrangements  were  entered 
into,  and  in  1820  the  count  accepted  a  tract 
of  26,840  acres,  for  which  he  paid  $^     ic  3. 

He  now  memorialized  the  Legisi^iuc  of 
New  York  to  grant  him  the  privilege  of  hold- 
ing titles  in  his  own  name.  In  his  memorial, 
he  says:  "  Not  being  of  the  number  of  those 
who  would  wish  to  abandon  this  land  of  hospi- 
tality, where  the  best  rights  of  man  prevail,  I 
am  nevertheless  bound  to  my  own  country  by 


98 


A  SOUVENIR  or   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


■^ 


ties  which  misfortunes  render  sacred."  The 
privilege  solicited  was  granted  by  a  si>ccial  act, 
bearing  date  March  31,  1825.  Having  ac- 
quired liis  titles,  the  ex-king  began  to  explore 
his  possessions;  and  it  is  told  of  him  that  when- 
ever it  was  possible,  he  traveled  in  great  state. 
Under  any  circumstances,  his  private  secre- 
tary, M.  Carot,  his  cook,  butler,  valet  and 
page  constituted  his  suite;  these,  with  the  ser- 
vants of  his  guests,  of  whom  he  usually  enter- 
tained several,  made  up  a  train,  which,  in  the 
eyes  of  the  simple  backwoodsmen  of  those  days, 
formed  a  pageant  long  to  be  remembered. 
Those  were  the  times  when  the  old  country 
tavern  was  in  the  ascendant  ;  and  how  to 
dispose  of  such  a  retinue,  became  at  times  a 
problem  too  intricate  for  the  rural  host  to 
solve. 

On  one  occasion,  when  on  his  way  to  spend 
the  winter  in  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  his 
train  was  unusually  large,  having  for  his  guests. 
Count  Pierre  Francois  Real,  wVo  was  Chef  de 
Police  under  the  Emperor,  and  who  then  lived 
at  Cape  Vincent,  Jefferson  county;  Emmanuel 
Count  de  Grouchy  and  General  Desfurneaux, 
who,  with  their  attendants,  were  also  going  to 
the  metropolis,  together  with  several  distin- 
guished gentlemen  from  Albany,  who  had  been 
guests  of  Count  Survilliers  at  Bonaparte  lake. 
They  halted  in  the  evening  at  a  well-known  hos- 
telry in  the  Mohawk  valley,  kept  by  a  sturdy  old 
Dutchman.  As  was  by  no  means  uncommon 
among  those  who  were  in  company  with  Count 
Survilliers,  a  night  of  revelry  followed;  a  kingly 
revel,  where  the  guests  were  served  on  silver 
by  Parisian  waiters.  The  choicest  vintages 
were  served  in  Venetian-cut  glass,  and  the 
costliest  teas  and  coffees  in  Sevres  china. 
First,  drinking  to  the  idol  of  their  hearts,  him 
who  was  even  then  breaking  his  heart  against 
the  bars  of  St.  Helena,  and  whom  they  seldom 
for  a  moment  forgot,  they  gave  way  to  amuse- 
ment and  hilarity.  Song  and  story  followed 
in  rapid  succession,  witticisms  sparkled  like 
the  bead  upon  their  champagne,  while  the 
worthy  host,  called  here  and  there,  often  two 
ways  at  the  same  moment,  was  half  crazed, 
and  wholly  bewildered.  In  the  morning 
M.  Carot,  the  Count's  private  seeretary,  called 


upon  the  landlord  to  present  his  bill.  This 
was  a  poser;  never  before  in  that  house,  had  \ 
bill  of  items  been  asked  for,  but  the  crisis  had 
come,  and  it  must  be  met;  and  so  the  worthy 
Honiface,  groaning  over  the  unwonted  ment:il 
exertion  required,  set  slowly  about  his  task. 
Aided  by  the  "good  frouw,"  whose  qualifir.i- 
tions  as  an  accountant,  were,  if  possible,  fewer 
than  his  own,  he  finally,  with  much  ment.il 
travail,  produced  a  bill  which  seemed  to  meet 
the  retjuirements;  and  with  some  trepidation 
in  his  manner,  he  presented  it  to  M.  Carot. 
It  was  a  bill  for  $200.  The  astute  secretary 
detected  the  exorbitant  charges  at  a  glance, 
and  looked  with  dismay  upon  the  final  footing, 
the  manifest  result  of  an  attempt  to  divide  a 
large  sum  total  among  a  few  items  only;  the 
house  as  a  matter  of  fact,  having  contributed 
but  very  little  toward  the  entertainment. 

Noticing  the  look  upon  his  secretary's  face, 
Count  Survilliers  demanded  to  see  the  bill. 
It  was  handed  to  him,  and  thence  ran  the 
guantlet  of  the  merry  company,  who,  shouting 
with  laughter  at  Mynheer's  unique  specimen 
of  bookkeeping,  nevertheless  protested  against 
his  outrageous  charges  ;  which,  allowing  him 
the  highest  possible  prices  for  labor  and  sup- 
plies, would  scarcely  amount  to  I50.  The 
bill  was  returned  to  the  landlord,  and  the  ex- 
orbitant charges  pointed  out ;  in  process  of 
time  an  amended  bill  was  brought  in,  which 
contained  a  very  fairly  itemized  account 
amounting  to  $50,  after  whicii  followed  the 
crowning  entry :  "  To  making  in  mine  house 

one  d d  fuss,  $150," — thus  triumphantly 

sustaining  the  original  grand  total.  Saying 
"cheap  enough,  too,"  the  ex-king  ordered 
M.  Carot,  to  settle  the  bill.  For  many  years 
thereafter  that  same  bill  was  in  the  possession 
of  one  of  Albany's  most  distinguished  citizens, 
who  frequently  exhibited  it  to  his  friends  as  a 
"  model  Mohawk-valley  tavern  bill." 

Count  Survilliers  made  a  number  of  im- 
provements in  various  parts  of  his  domain,  and 
expended  money  with  a  princely  liberality, 
thereby  benefiting  many  a  poor  man,  who  in 
those  days  would  otherwise  have  handled 
money  but  rarely.  At  Natural  Bridge,  he 
erected  a  large  framed  house,  with  all  the  con- 


A  BONAPARTE  IN  NORTHERN  NEiV    YORK. 


99 


is  bill.  This 
house,  had  i 
the  crisis  hul 
io  the  wortliy 
onted  mental 
Dut  his  task. 
3se  qualifica- 
ossible,  fewer 
Tiuch  mental 
?med  to  meet 
e  trepidation 
to  M.  Caret. 
;ute  secretary 
I  at  a  glance, 
final  footing, 
it  to  divide  a 
ms  only;  the 
;  contributed 
inment. 
:retary's  face, 
see  the  bill. 
;nce  ran  the 
vho,  shouting 
ue  specimen 
tested  against 
allowing  him 
jor  anc"  sup- 

0  $50.  The 
,  and  the  ex- 
n  process  of 
;ht  in,  which 
zed  account 
followed  the 

1  mine  house 
triumphantly 
5tal.  Saying 
ing  ordered 
•  many  years 
le  possession 
ihed  citizens, 
5  friends  as  a 
ill." 

liber  of  im- 
domain,  and 
ly  liberality, 
man,  who  in 
ave  handled 
Bridge,  he 
lall  the  con- 


venient accessories  of  a  gentleman's  summer 
residence  and  furnished  it  cLgaiitly  at  a  great 
expense.  Mere,  for  several  seasons,  the  ex- 
king  kept  open  house,  and  was  visited  at  times 
by  some  of  those  whom,  in  his  days  of  regal 
pomp  and  power,  he  had  entertained  at  court 
ui  Naples  and  in  Madrid.  Among  the  more 
constant  of  his  guests,  however,  were  Count 
Real;  the  Peugnet  brothers,  Louis,  Hyacinthe 
md  Theophilus;  Louis,  having  been  a  captain 
in  the  Kmperor's  body  guard,  an  officer  of  the 
r'>rn.s  d'elite;  still  wore  the  cross  of  the  Legion 
liieur,  placed  upon  his  breast  by  the  V.m- 
|)eror's  own  hand;  General  RoUand,  Count 
Real's  son-in-law  Col.  Jermoux,  Camille 
.\rmand,  and  others,  all  living  at  Cape  Vincent, 
where  M.  Le  Ray  had  founded  a  prosperous 
village  and  erected  a  stately  mansion,  now  the 
property  of  Mrs.  Beaufort,  and  her  sister.  Miss 
Emeline  Peugnet,  daughters  of  Captain  Louis 
Peugnet ;  estimable,  refined  ladies  are  they, 
well  known  far  beyond  the  bounds  of  their 
village-home. 

There  are  many  circumstances  which  ren- 
der it  probable  that  these  re-unions,  in  which 
M.  Le  Ray  was  by  no  means  the  least  honored 
c  %  and  which  he  often  reciprocated  by 
ing  the  entire  company  under  his  own 
II-  ,  either  in  his  stately  chateau  at  Le  Rays- 
ville,  or  in  his  house  at  Cape  Vincent,  were 
for  the  purpose  of  discussing  matters  of  much 
greater  importance  than  disquisitions  on  mat- 
ters piscatorial,  or  the  art  of  living  ;  although 
hunting  and  fishing  was  the  ostensible  object. 
The  woods  abounded  in  game,  and  the  streams 
and  the  lakes  with  fish.  A  beautiful  lake  of 
some  1200  acres  area,  abounding  in  the 
choicest  varieties  of  fish,  and  forming  a  part 
of  the  Count's  domain,  was  but  a  few  miles 
from  his  mansion,  at  Natural  Bridge,  N.  Y. 
It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  with  bold  and 
rocky  shores,  its  surface  sprinkled  with  island 
gems,  —  an  archipelago  in  minature.  On  an 
eminence  overlooking  its  shores  the  Count 
erected  a  commodious  hunting  lodge,  and 
opened  a  road  from  the  old  State  Turnpike 
to  the  lake,  on  which  boats  were  launched  and 
every  possible  convenience  provided  for  both 
hunting   and    fishing,    of  which    sports    the 


Count  was  extremly  fond;  and  yet,  to  use  the 
phraseology  of  a  man  who  worked  on  the 
building  mentioned,  and  wlio  is  yet  living  at 
Natural  Bridge:  '"They  didn't  seem  to  iiunt 
and  fish  much  a'ter  all."  This  charming  lake 
(Bonaparte,  now  named)  is  now  the  property 
of  Hon.  Joseph  Pahud,  a  superior  and  most 
interesting  gentleman,  and  he  has  erected  a 
neat  hotel  there,  a  very  paradise  for  anyone 
desiring  rest,  combined  with  fish  and  game. 

That  a  scheme  was  formed  to  rescue  the 
Emperor  from  the  custody  of  Sir  Hudson 
Lowe,  and  spirit  him  away  to  the  United 
States,  there  can  now  be  no  doubt.  The 
French  residents  of  Cape  Vincent,  after  the 
news  of  Napoleon's  death  was  receivad,  did 
not  hesitate  to  avow  that  such  had  been 
their  purpose.  A  well-known  American  naval 
commander,  whose  reputation  for  courage, 
skill  and  daring,  even  to  recklessness  ai  times, 
could  not  bo  questioned,  was  to  have  aided 
the  scheme;  and  with  his  help,  they  hoped  to 
succeed.  It  is  also  highly  probable  that,  in 
some  way,  the  exiles  on  St.  Helena  were  made 
aware  of  the  effort^  on  foot  to  secure  their 
liberation.  A  letti  1  written  by  Count  Ber- 
trand  to  Joseph  Bonaparte  on  the  death  of 
the  Emperor,  after  announcing  the  sad  event, 
says  of  him:  "  The  hope  of  leaving  this  dread- 
ful country  often  presented  itself  to  his  imagi- 
nation. Some  newspaper  articles  added  to, 
and  excited  our  expectations.  We  sometimes 
fancied  that  we  were  on  the  eve  of  starting 
for  America ;  we  read  travels ;  we  made  plans; 
we  arrived  at  your  house  ;  we  wandered  over 
that  great  country,  where  alone  we  might 
hope  to  enjoy  liberty.  Vain  hopes !  Vain 
projects  !  which  only  made  us  doubly  feel  our 
misfortunes." 

That  Count  Real  erected  a  house  at  Cape 
Vincent  for  the  reception  of  his  adored  Chief, 
is  so  well  known  in  that  locality  that  it  "  goes 
without  saying;  "  and  also  that  during  its  erec- 
tion, Count  Survilliers  was  oftener  a  visitor  at 
Cape  Vincent  than  at  any  other  time.  Then, 
too,  his  constant  communication  with  this  band 
of  enthusiastic  imperialists,  and  especially  with 
Professor  Pigeon,  who  was  Private  Secretary 
to  Count  Real,  and  who,  no  doubt,  wrote  every 


ICX) 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


letter  and  every  communication  of  whatever 
nature  relating  to  their  secret  plans. 

It  was  Prof.  Pigeon  who  took  a  vow  never 
to  cover  his  head  while  Napoleon  was  a  pris- 
oner ;  and  notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the 
winters  in  Northern  New  York,  he  steadfastly 
adhered  to  his  resolution  until  the  death  of 
the  Emperor  released  him  from  his  vow. 

During  Joseph  Bonaparte's  last  visit  to 
Bonaparte  Lake,  a  tragedy  occurred  that,  for 
some  time,  threw  a  gloom  over  h's  daily  life, 
which  seemed  impossible  for  him  to  shake  off. 
Not  far  from  Bonaparte  Lake  is  Green  Lake, 
a  body  of  water  not  half  the  size  of  Bonaparte 
Lake,  and  as  dismal,  gloomy  and  repubive  as 
the  other  is  delightful.  Its  shores  are  bold 
and  rocky;  and  owing  to  a  mass  of  fallen  tim- 
ber, which  forms  an  almost  impenetrable 
cheveaux  de  frieze  around  it,  it  is  very  difficult 
of  access.  Not  far  from  the  water's  edge,  at 
a  point  where  the  rocky  wall  almost  reaches 
it,  is  a  cave  so  dark  and  dismal  that  it  became 
known  as  the  "  Cave  of  the  Sepulchre,"  a 
name  which  a  subsequent  occurrence  served 
to  c-'-^bHsh  more  completely,  if  possible,  than 
it  \v,  :.  jefore. 

Aii.ong  the  attendants  of  the  count,  was  a 
young  Frenchman  named  Jean  Valiois,  who 
paid  marked  attention  to  the  daughter  of  a 
French  settler  living  in  the  vicinity.  She  was 
a  beautiful  girl,  and  it  was  not  long  before 
they  were  almost  inseparable.  It  was  espe- 
cially their  delight  to  take  a  boat  and  row 
away  together  among  the  island?,  or  climb  the 
rocks  to  find  some  new  view  on  which  to 
feast  their  eyes.  Count  Survilliers  was  him- 
self too  fond  of  the  fair  sex  to  put  any  re- 
straint on  the  loves  of  his  followers,  and  so 
the  liaison  went  on  uninterrupted  until  it  be- 
came apparent  to  all  that  a  climax  was  not  far 
distant.  One  day  the  young  people  an- 
nounced their  intention  to  visit  Green  Lake, 
which  was  but  a  short  distance  away.  They 
were  never  seen  again.  Days  lengthened  into 
weeks,  and  weeks  into  months,  and  yet  no 
trace  of  them  was  found.  The  woods  were 
scoured  far  and  wide  in  every  direction,  and 
the  waters  of  Green  Lake  dragged  in  vain. 
Years  sped  on,  and  finally  the  old  Frenchman 


and  his  wife  died,  and  gradually  the  occur- 
rence faded  from  recollection.  In  1850  a 
party  of  hunters  conceived  the  idea  of  explor- 
ing the  Cave  of  the  Sepulcher.  Providing 
themselves  with  an  abundance  of  material  tor 
lights  and  whatever  else  they  deemed  neces- 
sary, the  exploration  was  made.  Among  the 
rubbish  in  the  bottom  of  the  cave  some  bones 
were  found,  which  were  thought  to  be  those 
of  an  animal.  One  of  the  party,  however,  in 
looking  closer,  discovered  a  human  skull,  and 
further  search  revealed  another  ;  then  soipe 
little  trinkets  were  found  ;  and  finally  a  Span- 
ish gold  coin,  on  one  side  of  which  was 
stamped  the  he^id  of  Joseph  Bonaparte. 
When  these  facts  became  known,  it  was  re- 
membered that  Count  Survilliers  had  oiten 
presented  similar  pieces  to  members  of  his 
suite,  and  to  particular  friends  as  souvenirs  of 
some  special  occasion.  This  fact  coupled 
with  the  medical  testimony,  that  one  of  the 
skulls  found  belonged  to  a  male  and  the  other 
to  a  female,  made  the  conclusion  almost  irre- 
sistible that  these  were  none  other  than  the 
remains  of  Jean  Valiois  and  the  French 
maiden  so  soon  to  become  a  mother.  Whether 
it  was  deliberate  suicide  on  the  part  of  both, 
or  whether  they  fell  victims  to  a  beast  of 
prey,  will  never  be  known  so  far  as  human 
knowledge  is  concerned. 

The  author  considers  himself  fortunate  in 
having  interviewed  Mr.  Joseph  Blanchard,  of 
Natural  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  before  his  death  in 
1895,  he  having  ♦^hen  reached  his  88th  yea--. 
His  recollection  of  Joseph  Bonaparte  was  dis- 
tinct and  special,  and  being  a  man  of  great 
intelligence  as  well  as  wholly  truthful,  Mr. 
Blanchard 's  description  of  the  ex- King  ol 
Spain  became  very  interesting.  He  describes 
Joseph  as  having  been  suave  in  manner,  very 
kind  to  the  settlers  and  easily  approached. 
At  times,  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  life  in 
that  fr.r-away  forest,  he  would  don  a  work- 
man's blouse  and  aid  in  the  work  of  building 
his  house.  This  was  in  1828.  The  Hon. 
Lotus  Ingalls,  the  veteran  Water^own  editor, 
well  remembers  the  ex-king  as  a  jolly  French- 
man, who  would  sit  in  front  of  his  dwelling 
of  a  summer  evening  and  scatter  small  coins 


A  BONAPARTE  IN  NORTHEI'N  NEW    YORK. 


lor 


'  the  occur- 
In    1850  a 
ia  of  explor- 
Providing 
material  tor 
smed  neces- 
Among  the 
;  some  bonc^ 
to   be  those 
however,  in 
in  skull,  and 
;  then  sonie 
lally  a  Span- 
which   was 
Bonaparte. 
1,  it  was  re- 
s  had  oiten 
ibers  of   his 
souvenirs  of 
set   coupled 
one  of  the 
nd  the  other 
almost  irro- 
ler  than  the 
the     French 
er.  Whether 
)art  of  both, 
a  beast   of 
r  as  human 

fortunate  in 
anchard,  of 
lis  death  in 
88th  yea--, 
irte  was  dis- 
lan  of  great 
uthful,  Mr. 
ex-King  of 
le  describes 
anner,  very 
ipproached. 
y  of  life  in 
n   a  work- 
of  building 
The    Hon. 
own  editor, 
)lly  French- 
is  dwelling 
small  coins 


among  the  expectant  boys  who  ^\  oald  struggle 
for  the  prizes. 

An  examination  of  his  dwelling  at  Natural 
Bridge  gave  rise  to  many  peculiar  sensations. 
Here  dwelt  one  who  had  tasted  every  earthly 
pleasure,  and  had  reigned  as  king  over  one  of 
the  proudest  and  oldest  countries  of  modern 
times.  Did  he  hope  to  obtain  forgetfulness 
of  the  past  by  intercourse  with  the  common 
people  of  a  back  settlement,  or  by  living  close 
to  nature;  did  he  hope  to  rejuvenate  a  con- 
stitution doubtless  worn  by  high  living  and 
the  excitements  that  surround  a  throne  ?  Be 
that  as  it  may,  he  tarried  not  long  at  Natural 
Bridge,  returning  to  Bordentown,  N.  J.,  in 
1829. 

There  are  several  dwellings  in  different 
parts  of  Jefferson  county  which  were  built  by 
Joseph  Bonaparte  for  residences  or  offices. 
Not  more  than  one  or  two  of  these  are  stand- 
ing. He  built  a  large  stone  house  on  the  shore 
of  Perch  Lake,  in  the  town  of  Pamelia,  N.  Y. 
This  was  very  richly  furnished  throughout; 
the  fireplaces  were  fitted  with  marble  mantels, 
and  the  whole  house  was  finished  to  corres- 
j)ond.  This  was  intended  for  a  \vinter  resi- 
dence, being  within  easy  reach  of  his  friends 
at  Cape  Vincent,  and  of  the  chateau  of 
M.  de  Le  Ray,  at  Le  Raysville.  This  part 
of  his  domain  was  afterward  sold  to  John 
La  Fargc,  another  French  emigr^,  but  now 
scarcely  one  stone  stands  upon  another  to 
mark  what  was  once  the  dwelling  of  royalty. 
A  nephew  of  Count  Survilliers,  Joachim  Murat, 
was  a  frequent  guest  of  his  uncle,  who  pre- 
sented him  with  a  tract  of  land  lying  between 
tlie  present  villages  of  Antwerp  and  Theresa. 
Here  the  young  man  began  business  on  a 
large  scale.  He  caused  a  canal  to  be  dug, 
a  dam  was  built  on  Indian  river,  and  a  mill 
erected,  a  storehouse  and  dwellings  put  up,  a 


town  laid  out  on  a  grand  scale,  and  every 
preparation  made  for  a  city  in  the  wilderness, 
but  it  failed  to  materialize.  While  the  young 
Murat  possessed  all  the  natural  proclivities 
which  constitute  the  modern  "  boomer,"  he 
was  half  a  century  in  advance  of  the  times; 
stttlers  failed  to  come,  the  development  of  the 
country  was  slow,  the  locality  was  off  the 
natural  lines  of  communication,  so  that  after 
the  expenditure  of  a  fortune,  he  was  forced 
to  abandon  the  enterprise,  and  now  but  little 
remains  to  indicate  the  spot  where  he  fondly 
hoped  to  rear  the  flourishing  city  of  "Joachim." 
In  1833,  or  it  may  be  in  the  spring  of  1834, 
Joseph  Bonaparte  returned  to  France,  and 
Northern  New  York  knew  him  no  more.  In 
1835  his  agont,  Judge  Joseph  Boyer,  sold  all 
his  remaining  lands  in  Jefferson  and  Lewis 
counties  to  John  La  Farge.  At  this  time, 
political  events  in  France  apparently  favored 
a  reinstatement  of  the  Bonaparte  family,  and 
Count  Survilliers,  hopeful  that  the  next  turn 
of  the  political  wheel  would  bring  the  Bona- 
partes  to  the  surface,  was  anxious  to  be  where 
his  greatest  interests  lay,  and  where  his  per- 
sonal efforts  might  be  of  some  avail.  With 
the  sale  of  his  landed  estates,  his  interests  in 
a  country  where,  to  use  his  own  expression, 
"The  best  rights  of  man  prevail,"  entirely 
ceased.  Some  three  or  four  old  men  are  yet 
alive,  who,  in  the  capacity  of  guides  or 
laborers  for  the  ex-king,  can  relate  some  anec- 
dote of  him  ;  but  of  his  real  life  while  in 
Northern  New  York,  scarce  anything  is  pub- 
licly known  b;yond  what  is  embodied  in 
this  brief  skf.tch.  Of  one  who  was  king  of 
Naples,  who  sat  on  the  throt.e  of  Spain,  whose 
brother  was  an  einperor,  and  wore  the  diadem 
of  the  Caesars,  and  whose  acts  have  filled 
more  pages  of  history  than  did  those  of  Alex- 
ander the  Great,  it  seems  trifling  indeed. 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


PY    AN    AMATEUR    HISTORIAN. 


Oh,  that  I  were  a  painter  I   who  could  a  picture  make, 
A  fitting  guide  to  be,  into  this  Island  mystery. 


I^APLE  ISLAND,  on  which  the  tragedy 
1^^  I  which  I  am  about  to  relate  took  place, 
lies  a  little  beyond  the  main  steamboat  channel 
on  the  American  side,  almost  in  front  of,  and 
in  plain  view  from  the  balconies  of  the 
"  Frontenac  "  on  Round  Island.  It  has  an 
area  of  about  six  acres,  and  a  high  ridge  ex- 
tends across  it  from  east  to  west,  or  nearly  so, 
which  is  inclined  to  be  precipitous  on  the 
north  and  north-west.  For  the  most  part,  the 
island  is  covered  by  a  thick  undergrowth  with 
here  and  there  a  few  larger  trees,  excepting 
on  the  south  side  of  the  dividing  ridge,  where 
the  timber  has  been  cut  away,  leaving  a  tri- 
angular shaped  clearing  with  its  apex  at  the 
top  of  the  ridge.  There  is  nothing  about  it  to 
attract  especial  attention. 

Some  time  since,  while  glancing  through 
the  columns  of  Clayton's  newsy  weekly,  On 
the  St.  Lawrence,  I  lighted  upon  a  brief  arti- 
cle which  at  once  engrossed  my  attention.  At 
this  date  I  cannot  give  more  than  the  sub- 
stance of  the  bketch,  having  mislaid  the  clip- 
ping made  at  the  time ;  but  if  my  memory 
serves  me  it  was  headed:  "The  Tragedy  of 
Maple  Island  ; "  at  all  events,  if  not  this  in 
exact  terms,  it  conveyed  the  idea  so  forcibly 
that  I  read  and  re-read  the  article,  vainly  try- 
ing to  recall  something  that  I  had  read  before, 
which  in  a  vague,  shadowy  way  seemed  con- 
nected with  it.  The  substance  of  the  article 
in  question  is  as  follows  : 

In  the  summer  of  1865,  in  the  early  part  of 
June,  a  stranger  made  his  appearance  at  the 


hotel  in  the  little  hamlet  of  Fisher's  Landing, 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river, 
below  Round  Island,  and  opposite  Thousand 
Island  Park,  which  at  that  time  had  no  exist- 
ence. It  was  a  singular  fact  that  although  he 
gave  a  name,  which  is  not  now  remembered, 
he  never  signed  the  hotel  register. 

He  was  a  broad-shouldcied,  dark-haired 
man,  moustrxhe  and  goatee,  genteelly  dressed, 
evidently  net  more  than  twenty-five  years  of 
age,  probpbly  less;  of  very  agreeable  manners, 
but  very  reticent,  and  with  the  characteristics 
of  a  Southerner.  He  spent  his  time  chiefly  in 
looking  about  the  country,  visiting,  at  times, 
the  little  village  of  Omar,  and  rowing  in  a 
skiff  among  the  adjoining  islands.  He  finally 
announced  his  intention  of  erecting  a  cabin  on 
one  of  the  islands,  the  better  to  enjoy  his 
favorite  pastime  of  fishing.  He  selected 
Maple  Island  as  his  place  of  residence,  and 
at  Clayton  he  purchased  lumber  and  all  the 
necessary  materials  for  the  structure,  hired 
them  transported  to  the  island,  engaged  work- 
men to  build  it,  bought  a  skiff  with  its  outfit, 
and  the  furniture  necessary  for  housekeeping, 
and  in  a  short  time  occupied  his  island  domi- 
cile. His  food  supplies  —  bread,  butter,  eggs, 
milk  and  vegetables  —  were  obtained  from 
farmers  on  Grindstone  Island,  and  his  gro- 
ceries from  Clayton.  He  made  no  intimate 
acquaintances,  though,  if  a  chance  caller  vis- 
ited him,  which  was  but  seldom,  he  was  treated 
courteously,  but  never  invited  .to  repeat  the 
call.     He  was  known  to  have  quite  a  store  of 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


103 


■'s  Landing, 
rence  river, 
;  Thousand 
id  no  exist- 
ilthough  he 
:membered, 

dark-haired 
!lly  dressed, 
ive  years  of 
)le  manners, 
aracteristics 
ne  chiefly  in 
ig,  at  times, 
•owing  in  a 
He  finally 
\  a  cabin  on 

0  enjoy  his 
[e  selected 
idence,  and 
and  all  the 
:ture,  hired 
jaged  work- 
th  its  outfit, 
usekeeping, 
sland  donii- 
)utter,  eggs, 
ained  from 
nd  his  gro- 
tio  intimate 

1  caller  vis- 
was  treated 

repeat  the 
;  a  store  of 


books,  and  to  amuse  himself  by  playing  upon 
the  violin,  as  the  strains  of  one  were  often 
heard  proceeding  from  his  cabin,  which  stood 
in  a  dense  thicket  against  a  wall  of  rock,  and 
so  hidden  that  it  could  not  be  seen  from  a 
passing  skiff.  The  summer  months  sped 
away,  and  so  quiet  and  undemonstrative  was 
the  stranger  that  he  would  have  been  almost 
entirely  forgotten  but  for  his  semi-occasional 
visits  to  Clayton  for  supplies. 

Very  early  in  the  autumn,  and  it  may  have 
been  during  the  last  days  of  August,  several 
strangersi  made  their  appearance  on  the  river, 
stopping  f.jr  a  time  at  Alexandria  Bay,  at 
Fisher's  Landing,  and  at  Clayton.  As  it  was 
nothing  unusual  to  see  strangers  at  these 
places,  no  especial  notice  was  taken  of  them 
further  than  that  they  all  seemed  to  be 
Southerners.  But  for  subsequent  events,  this 
would  not  have  been  remarked,  as  it  was  by 
no  means  an  unusual  thing  for  Southerners  to 
visit  the  Thousand  Islands,  prominent  even 
then  as  a  resort  for  those  who  affected  the 
rod  and  gun. 

But  an  event  took  place  which  arrested  the 
attention  and  aroused  the  sympathy  of  the 
people  ;  a  bloody  mystery,  which  to-day  is 
almost  as  great  a  mystery  as  ever,  and  one 
which  will,  in  all  probability,  never  be  fully 
solved,  until  the  day  when  all  mysteries  shall 
be  made  clear. 

It  was  in  September;  the  loveliest  month  on 
the  St.  Lawrence.  As  the  poet  Reade, 
sings:  — 

"  The  season  where  the  light  of  dreams 

Around  the  year  in  golden  glory  lies;  — 

The  heavens  are  full  of  floating  mysteries, 

And  down  the  lake  the  veiled  splendor  beams! 

Like  hidden  poets  lie  the  hazy  streams. 

Mantled  with  mysteries  of  their  own  romance, 

Wliile  scarce  a  breath  disturbes  their  drowsy  trance." 

It  was  on  such  an  evening  that  a  bright 
light  was  seen  by  residents  of  Clayton,  on 
Maple  Island.  It  was  conjectured  at  once 
that  the  Hermit's  cabin  had  caught  fire,  hut 
as  it  was  impossible  to  reach  him  in  time  to  be 
of  any  assistance,  and  apprehending  no  per- 
sonal danger  to  him,  but  little  thought  was 
given  to  the  occurrencr     'urther  than  that  he 


was  expected  to  come  ashore  for  lodgings  at  a 
hotel;  but  as  he  did  not  come  within  a  reason- 
able time,  it  was  thought  that  he  had  rowed 
over  to  Grindstone  Island,  or  down  to  Grenell's 
tavern,  which  stood  where  the  Pullman 
Hotel  now  stands,  and  so  nothing  more  was 
thought  of  the  matter  that  night. 

The  next  morning,  some  fishermen  went 
ashore  on  Maple  Island,  and  visited  the  spot 
where  the  cabin  stood.  They  saw  at  once 
that  something  unusual  had  occurred.  The 
ground  was  tramped  as  with  many  feet.  Evi- 
dences of  a  desperate  struggle  were  on  every 
hand.  Traces  of  blood  were  found  on  the 
bushes,  and  then  robbery  and  murder  was 
suspected.  A  careful  search  was  instituted, 
and  finally  the  body  of  the  unfortunate  occu- 
pant was  found  near  the  water's  edge,  on  the 
lower  end  of  the  island.  His  throat  was  cut 
from  ear  to  ear,  and  a  knife  thrust  had  nearly 
severed  the  heart.  There  was  no  clothing  on 
the  body  except  a  pair  of  drawers,  and  across 
the  breast  three  crosses  were  cut  in  a  triangle, 
one  cross  forming  its  apex,  and  two  its  base. 
To  the  discovers  of  the  body,  these  had  no 
especial  significance.  They  saw  nothing 
beyond  plain  murder  and  robbery.  It  might 
have  been  stated  before,  that  the  deceased 
was  known  to  have  plenty  of  money.  He  had 
always  been  a  prompt  and  liberal  f»aymaster, 
and  whenever  it  had  been  necessary,  owing  to 
a  lack  of  American  money,  he  had  offered 
English  gold  in  payment  for  his  purchases ; 
and  so,  that  he  was  murdered  solely  for  his 
money,  was  the  prevailing  idea,  and  no  signifi- 
cance attached  to  the  crosses  ;  and  yet,  these 
and  these  alone,  furnished  the  clew  which  has 
nearly  succeeded  in  tracing  out  the  mystery. 

The  coroner  was  summoned,  and  after  a 
patient  examination,  the  principal  facts  as 
above  stated  were  brought  out,  and  a  verdict 
rendered  accordingly.  The  body  was  decently 
buried,  the  occurrence  created  a  "nine  day's 
wonder,"  and  then  passed  out  of  mind ;  and 
but  for  the  meager  statement  in  the  newspaper 
referred  to,  it  would  have  never  been  revived, 
as  there  is  to-day  but  one  or  two  persons  living 
who  had  an  actual  knowledge  of  the  facts 
above  stated.     It  must  not  be  supposed  that 


104 


A   SOUVENIR  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER 


■*^ 


the  newspaper  article  contained  a  tjnth  part 
of  what  is  already  related.  It  was  by  close 
and  persistent  search  and  careful  inquiry,  that 
these  additional  facts  were  gleaned,  and  they 
are  presented  here  as  a  reason  for,  and  an  in- 
troduction to,  what  follows : 

It  was  the  month  of  April,  1865.  The  nation 
was  jubilant.  The  long  and  bloody  conflict 
had  closed,  and  joy  reigned  triumphant  every- 
where. The  country  was  ablaze  with  bonfires, 
and  grand  illuminations  turned  night  into  day. 
The  evening  splendors  of  the  National  Capital 
were  unsurpassed,  and  the  grand  illuminations 
were  made  still  more  gorgeous  by  the  display 
of  fireworks.  Bands  of  music  serenaded  the 
President,  whose  congratulatory  speeches  it 
seemed  to  many  were  tinged  with  'x  shade  of 
melancholy.  But  a  day  was  at  !iand  ;  a  day 
of  gloom,  and  of  darkness,  and  of  woe,  un- 
paralleled in  the  history  of  the  world.  Were 
it  not  necessary,  by  reason  of  their  being  an 
important  factor  in  this  narrative,  the  sad 
events  which  plunged  a  nation  into  mourning 
and  lamentation  would  not  be  here  rehearsed. 
The  inexpressible  sadness  which  pervaded 
every  countenance  at  the  news  of  the  assassina- 
tion of  Abraham  Lincoln,  was  an  index  to  the 
heartfelt  pain  within  ;  and  even  now,  though 
thirty  years  have  rolled  into  the  dim  and  misty 
past,  I  am  unable  to  recall  the  terrible  event, 
much  less  to  transcribe,  howevei  briefly,  its 
salient  features,  without  experiencing  again 
that  fearful  shock,  which,  like  an  electric  cur- 
rent laden  with  woe  and  draped  with  disaster, 
ran  from  man  to  man  and  from  camp  to  camp 
throughout  our  lines  at  Raleigh,  where  the 
corps  to  which  the  writer  belonged  was 
stationed.  It  was  the  same  everywhere.  All 
nature  seemed  clad  in  the  habiliments  of  woe. 

On  the  evening  of  the  14th  day  of  April, 
1865,  the  play  "  Our  American  Cousin  "  was 
in  progress  at  Ford's  Theater,  on  Tenth 
street,  just  above  E  street,  Washington,  D.  C. ; 
a  large,  plain  brick  edifice,  now  converted  into 
a  museum  of  war  relics.  In  honor  of  the  oc- 
casion and  of  the  day's  rejoicing,  because 
the  folds  of  the  Nation's  Flag  had  that  day 
been  once  again  flung  to  the  breeze  above 
the  shattered  ramparts  of  Fort  Sumter,  Presi- 


dent Lincoln  was  to  occupy  the  "  Presidential 
box,"  which  consisted  of  the  two  upper  boxes 
on  the  left  of  the  stage  thrown  into  one.  The 
box  on  that  memorable  evening  was  occupied 
by  the  President  and  Mrs.  Lincoln,  Major  R. 
H.  Rathbone  and  Miss  Clara  H.  Harris.  The 
house,  holding  nearly  three  thousand  people, 
was  filled  with  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  the 
city. 

At  about  10  o'clock,  when  the  second  scene 
of  the  third  act  was  on,  a  stranger  worked  his 
way  into  the  proscenium  box  occupied  by  the 
Presidential  party,  and  leveling  a  pistol  close 
to  the  head  of  Mr.  Lincoln,  he  f.red  ;  then 
drawing  a  knife  he  inflicted  a  severe  wound 
upon  Major  Rathbone,  who  had  seized  him, 
and  breaking  away  he  sprang  down  upon  the 
stage,  flourished  his  \nife  and  shouted  :  "  Sic 
Semper  Tyrannis!  "  and  before  the  real  posi- 
tion of  affairs  could  be  comprehended,  he 
dashed  across  the  stage,  mounted  a  fleet  horse, 
which  was  in  waiting  in  the  alley  in  the  rear 
of  the  theater,  and  escaped. 

That  man  was  John  Wilkes  Booth,  notori- 
ously a  rebel,  an  actor  of  some  merit,  but  now 
an  escaping  murderer. 

As  soon  as  the  audience  realized  the 
fact  that  the  President  was  shot,  the  wildest 
excitement  prevailed,  and  shouts  of  Hang 
him!  Hang  him  !  resounded  from  every  part 
of  the  house.  The  dying  President  was  borne 
to  a  private  house  —  Mr.  Peterson's,  across  the 
street — and  prominent  physicians  and  sur- 
geons were  summoned  at  once.  It  was  soon 
discovered  that  there  was  no  hope.  Mem- 
bers of  the  cabinet  assembled,  together  with 
other  distinguished  men,  and  stood  mourn- 
fully grouped  about  the  couch  of  the  uncon- 
scious chief  magistrate.  An  eye  witness  wrote 
thus :  "  The  scene  was  one  of  extraordinary 
solemnity.  The  history  of  the  world  fur- 
nishes no  parallel.  Breathing  his  life  serenely 
away,  sensible  to  no  pain  and  unconscious 
of  all  around,  the  Great  Man  of  the  nine- 
teenth century  lay,  passing  away  to  that  im- 
mortality accorded  by  Providence  to  few  of 
earth." 

All  the  long,  weary  night  the  watchers  stood 
around  the  couch.     Day  came  at  length,  and 


a— i 


i 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


\0' 


residential 
)per  boxes 
one.  The 
3  occupied 
,  Major  R, 
rris.  Tiie 
id  people, 
lion  of  the 

:ond  scene 
vorked  his 
ied  by  the 
listol  close 
red  ;  then 
ere  wound 
eized  him, 
1  upon  the 
ted:  "Sic 
;  real  posi- 
ended,  he 
fleet  horse, 
in  the  rear 

•th,  notori- 
t,  but  now 

iHzed  the 
he  wildest 

of  Hang 
every  part 
was  borne 
across  the 

and  sur- 
was  soon 
;.  Mem- 
ether  with 
)d  mourn- 
he  uncon- 
ness  wrote 
raordinary 
vorld  fur- 
Fe  serenely 
iconscious 
the  nine- 
5  that  im- 

to  few  of 

hers  stood 
:ngth,  and 


at  twenty-two  minutes  past  seven  o'clock  on 
Saturday  morning,  April  15th,  1865,  the  spirit 
of  Abraham  Lincoln,  freed  from  its  earthly 
tenement,  went  to  God  who  gave  it,  and  the 
nation  went  into  mourning. 

It  had  been  remarked  that  Secretary  Seward 
was  not  among  the  members  of  the  Cabinet 
who  rallied  around  the  bedside  of  their  dying 
Chief;  but  when  Surgeon-General  Barnes 
reached  the  house,  the  reason  was  made  clear. 
In  substance,  this  is  what  happened  to  Sur- 
geon-General Barnes  :  He  was  met  in  front 
of  Willard's  Hotel  by  an  officer,  on  the  night 
of  the  assassination,  who  informed  him  that 
the  President  was  shot.  Supposing  that 
the  deed  had  been  done  at  the  presidential 
mansion,  he  hurried  to  the  surgeon-general's 
office  to  give  orders  for  assistance,  and  there 
he  found  a  summons  to  the  bedside  of  Secre- 
tary Seward,  who  had  also  been  attacked  by 
an  assassin.  Believing  that  this  occurrence 
was  what  gave  rise  to  the  story  that  the  Presi- 
dent was  shot,  he  immediately  hurried  to  the 
chamber  of  Mr.  Seward.  He  found  him  lying 
upon  the  bed  with  one  cheek  cut  open,  and 
the  flesh  lying  over  on  the  pillow.  The  room 
presented  a  horrible  appearance.  Blood  be- 
spattered everything.  The  attendants  were 
huddled  into  corners,  frightened  and  helpless. 
No  one  seemed  capable  of  giving  a  single 
detail  of  the  terrible  occurrence.  Dr.  Barnes 
immediately  gave  his  attention  to  Mr.  Seward, 
but  shortly  Dr.  Norris  came,  and  turning  Mr. 
Seward  over  to  his  care,  the  surgeon-general 
proceeded  to  look  after  the  assistant  secretary, 
Mr.  Frederick  Seward,  who  was  lying  wounded 
and  insensible  in  an  adjoining  room.  Soon 
after,  other  surgeons  came  in,  and  from  them 
he  learned  the  distressing  facts  regarding  the 
assassination  of  the  President,  and  went  at 
once  to  his  bedside. 

Hoivever  strange  it  may  seem  to  us  of  to-day, 
as  we  read  the  various  and  voluminous  ac- 
counts of  those  occurrences,  yet  it  is  a  fact, 
that  not  for  several  days  afterward,  did  any 
one  seem  to  grasp  the  idea  that  it  was  a  pre- 
concerted scheme  of  assassination  —  a  con- 
certed plot  to  take  not  only  the  life  of  the 
President,  but  of  other  prominent  men  also. 


The  one  great  overshadowing  crime  seemed 
to  literally  draw  all  attention  to  itself.  Other 
transactions  were  dwarfed  by  it.  Even  the 
history  of  nations  could  produce  no  equal. 
True,  Brutus  slew  Cassar  in  the  Roman  Senate 
chamber,  and  Charlotte  Corday  murdered 
Murat  in  his  bath;  but  neither  instance  paral- 
leled this  unheard  of  atrocity. 

Gradually,  however,  as  events  began  to  un- 
fold themselves,  and  the  horizon  of  disturb- 
ance to  clear,  it  was  seen  that  the  assassination 
was  a  part  of  a  well-devised  scheme,  the  only 
part,  which,  owing  to  some  cause  or  causes 
unknown,  had  been  carried  into  full  effect. 
It  soon  became  known  also  that  the  Metro- 
politan police  had  long  been  aware  that  a 
society  called  the  Knights  of  the  "  Blue 
Gauntlet,"  the  same  in  all  essentials  as  that 
of  the  "  Knights  of  the  Golden  Circle,"  existed 
in  Washington;  and  they  not  only  knew  its 
place  of  meeting,  but  the  names  of  many  of  the 
members.  Not  deeming  it  at  all  dangerous, 
but  little  attention  had  been  paid  to  it,  be- 
cause the  secrets  of  the  "  Knights  of  the 
Golden  Circle,"  or  rather  the  "Sons  of 
Liberty,"  that  hdng  the  real  name  of  the 
organization,  had  become  known,  through 
the  address  of  Timothy  Webster,  one  of  the 
most  daring  and  skillful  members  of  the 
secret  service  ever  in  the  employ  of  the 
United  States  government ;  and  who  was  cap- 
tured in  Richmond,  tried,  convicted  and 
hanged  as  a  spy  by  the  orders  of  Gen.  Winder, 
April  29,  1862. 

A  brief  account  of  Webster's  initiation  into 
the  secret  society  of  the  "  Sons  of  Liberty  " 
in  the  city  of  Baltimore,  in  1861,  may  be 
given  here  as  an  illustration  of  the  general 
character  of  the  secret  societies  of  that  time, 
whose  object  was  to  aid  the  cause  of  the 
South,  no  matter  under  what  name  they  mas- 
queraded. Webster,  it  should  be  understood, 
had  so  ingratiated  himself  into  the  good  graces 
of  leading  secessionists  in  Baltimore,  that 
there  was  not  the  slightest  suspicion  afloat  re- 
garding him.  On  the  contrary,  he  was  so 
implicitly  trusted  that  he  visited  unquestioned 
all  parts  of  the  South,  making  long  visits  to 
Riclimond,  where  he  was  "  Hail  fellow,  well 


io6 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


met!  "  with  prominent  rebels,  and  their  trusted 
agent  in  Washington,  where  they  frequently 
sent  him  with  important  dispatches,  the  an- 
swers to  wh'ch  were  to  be  delivered  to  the 
authorities  in  Richmond ;  but  which,  it  is  need- 
less to  say,  reached  other  hanc's  than  those  of 
Judah  P.  Benjamin,  the  rebel  Secretary  of 
War,  for  whom  many  of  them  were  intended. 
Among  other  prominent  rebels  in  Baltimore 
was  one  Sloan,  a  noted  rebel,  with  whom  Web- 
ster was  on  the  most  intimate  terms.  During 
Webster's  absence  on  one  of  his  southern 
trips,  certain  secessionists  of  Baltimore  or- 
ganized a  secret  society  of  which  they  were 
very  desirous  that  he  should  become  a  mem- 
ber, and  to  Sloan,  because  he  was  an  intimate 
friend,  was  delegated  the  duty  of  soliciting 
him  to  join.  Seizing  a  favorable  opportunity 
on  Webster's  return  to  the  city,  Sloan  guard- 
edly broached  the  subject. 

"The  fact  is,"  said  Sloan,  "after  you  went 
away  we  formed  a  secret  society." 

"A  secret  society  1 "' 

"Yes;  and  we  have  held  several  meetings." 

"  Is  it  a  success  "i  " 

"  A  perfect  success.  Some  of  the  best  in 
the  town  are  among  our  members.  We  may 
be  forced  to  keep  silent,  but  they  can't  com- 
pel us  to  remain  idle.  We  are  well  organ- 
ized, and  we  mean  undying  opposition  to  a 
tyrannical  government.  I  tell  you,  Webster, 
we  will  not  down  !  " 

"  Never!  "  responded  Webster,  imitating 
the  boastful  tone  and  bearing  of  his  friend 
Sloan.  "It  does  not  lie  in  the  power  of  those 
white-livered  Yankees  to  make  slaves  of 
Souiliern  men!  I  should  like  to  become  a 
member  of  your  society,  Sloan." 

"  They  all  want  you,"  said  Sloan,  eagerly. 
"  We  passed  a  resolution  to  that  effect  at  our 
last  meeting.  We  want  the  benefit  of  your 
counsel  and  influence." 

"What  is  the  name  of  your  society?" 

"The  Sons  of  Liberty." 

"  When  will  your  next  meeting  be  held  ?  " 

"  To-night." 

"  So  soon  ?  " 

"  Yes ;  and  you  are  expected  to  attend. 
Have  you  any  objections  ?  " 


"  None  whatever.  But  how  will  I  get  there  ?  " 
"  I  am  delegated  to  be  your  escort." 
"  What  is  your  hour  of  meeting  ?  " 
"Twelve  o'clock." 

"  Ah  !  A  midnight  affair.  All  right,  Sloan, 
you  will  find  me  waiting  at  the  hotel." 

Promptly  at  eleven  o'clock  Sloan  appeared 
at  the  hotel,  whence  he  and  Webster  pro- 
ceeded toward  the  place  of  meeting.  It  was 
a  dark  and  stormy  night,  and,  as  Webster 
thought,  just  the  right  sort  of  a  night  for  con- 
cocting hellish  plots  and  the  performance  of 
evil  deeds.     As  Robert  Burns  says: 

"That  night,  a  chiel  might  understand, 
The  Deil  had  business  on  his  hand." 

Sloan  led  the  way  to  a  remote  quarter  of 
the  city,  and  into  a  street  which  bore  a  par- 
ticularly bad  reputation.     Stopping,  he  said: 

"  I  must  blindfold  you,  Webster,  before 
proceeding  any  further.  This  is  a  rule  of  the 
order,  which,  under  any  circumstance,  cannot 
be  departed  from." 

Webster  quietly  submitted,  and  a  thick 
bandage  was  placed  over  his  eyes  and  se- 
curely fastened.  Then  Sloan  took  him  by  the 
arm  and  led  him  forward.  Blindfolded  as  he 
was,  Webster  knew  that  they  turned  suddenly 
into  an  alley  and  passed  through  a  gate  which 
Sloan  shut  behind  them.  He  also  knew  that 
they  were  in  a  paved  court,  probably  in  the 
rear  of  some  building.  Just  then  Sloan  whis- 
pered : 

"Come  this  way  and  make  no  noise." 

The  next  moment  he  knocked  in  a  peculiar 
manner  against  a  door,  and  Webster  knew  it 
to  be  a  signal.  Immediately  a  guarded  voice 
asked: 

"  Are  you  white  ? " 

Sloan  responded:  "  Down  with  the  blacks." 

A  chain  clanked  inside,  a  bolt  was  with- 
drawn, the  door  creaked  slightly  on  its  rusty 
hinges,  and  they  entered ;  immediately  they 
began  to  climb  a  'hickly  carpeted  stair,  at  the 
head  of  which  they  were  challenged  : 

"  Halt  !  Who  comes  there  ? " 

"  Long  live  Jeff  Davis,"  answered  Sloan. 

Passing  through  another  door,  they  entered 
an  apartment  in  which  there  seemed  to  be 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


lo; 


;t  there?" 
t." 


;ht,  Sloan, 

:1." 

appeared 
)ster  pro- 
5.  It  was 
>  Webster 
it  for  con- 
rmance  of 


tand, 
nd." 

quarter  of 
are  a  par- 
he  said: 
;r,  before 
rule  of  the 
ce,  cannot 

[  a  thick 
s  and  se- 
him  by  the 
Ided  as  he 

suddenly 
;ate  which 

knew  that 
bly  in  the 

oan  whis- 

ise." 

a  peculiar 
r  knew  it 
ded  voice 


e  blacks." 
was  with- 
in its  rusty 
ately  they 
air,  at  the 


Sloan, 
y  entered 
led  to  be 


several  persons.  A  voice,  meant  to  be  im- 
pressive, demanded  : 

"  Whom  have  we  here  ?  " 

"A  friend,  Most  Noble  Chief,  who  wishes 
to  become  a  member  of  this  worthy  league." 

"His  name?" 

"  Timothy  Webster." 

"  Have  the  objects  of  this  league  been  fully 
explained  to  him  ?" 

"  Most  Noble  Chief,  they  have." 

'  Mr.  Webster,  is  it  your  desire  to  become 
a  member  of  this  knightly  band  ?  " 

"It  is." 

Then  came  the  ring  of  swords  leaping  from 
scabbards,  and  their  clank  as  they  met  in  an 
arch  of  steel  above  his  head  ;  and  then  the 
Noble  Chief  continued. 

'*  You  will  now  kneel  upon  your  right  knee, 
place  your  right  hand  upon  your  heart,  and 
repeat  after  me  the  obligation  of  our  brother- 
hood." 

"  I,  Timothy  Webster,  a  citizen  of  Balti- 
more, having  been  fully  informed  of  the  ob- 
jects of  this  Association,  and  being  in  full 
sympathy  and  accord  with  the  cause  it  seeks 
to  advance,  do  solemnly  declare  and  affirm, 
upon  my  sacred  honor,  that  I  will  keep  for- 
ever secret  all  that  I  may  see  or  hear,  in  con- 
sequence of  being  a  member  of  this  league; 
that  I  will  implicitly  obey  all  orders,  and 
faithfully  discharge  all  duties  assigned  to  me, 
no  matter  of  what  nature  or  character  they 
may  be  ;  and  that  life  or  death  will  be  held 
subordinate  to  the  success  and  advancement 
of  the  cause  of  the  Confederacy,  and  of  the  de- 
feat of  the  bloody  tyrants  who  are  striving  to 
rule  by  oppression  and  terrorism.  Should  I 
fail  in  the  proper  performance  of  any  task 
imposed  upon  me,  or  should  I  prove  unfaith- 
ful to  the  obligations  I  now  assume,  may  I 
suffer  the  severest  penalty  awarded  for  treason 
and  cowardice,  and  the  odium  belonging 
thereto,  as  well  as  the  scorn  and  contempt  of 
all  true  brother  knights." 

Again  the  swords  clanked  as  they  were  re- 
turned to  their  scabbards,  and  the  newly  obli- 
gated member  was  commanded  to  arise.  He 
obeyed,  and  the  bandage  was  removed.  At 
first  he  was  blinded  by  the  sudden  light,  but 


as  his  eyes  became  accustomed  to  it,  he  found 
himself  surrounded  by  several  stalwart  men, 
all  of  whom  wore  dark  cloaks  and  black  masks. 

"  Mr.  Webster,"  said  the  Chief,  "  I  now  pro- 
nounce you  a  Son  of  Liberty." 

The  masks  were  now  removed,  and  to  his 
relief,  Webster  discovered  that  the  faces  were 
all  familiar.  A  cordial  grasp  of  the  hand  was 
given  by  each  in  turn,  and  then  they  entered 
the  principal  council  chamber,  and  Webster 
was  escorted  to  a  seat.  In  a  few  minutes  the 
clock  struck  twelve,  when  every  door  was 
locked,  and  the  real  work  of  the  order  begun. 
There  were  some  forty  men  present,  and 
Webster  noticed  that  they  were  from  among 
the  best  citizens  of  Baltimore,  the  rowdy  ele- 
ment not  being  represented.  He  was  now 
instructed  in  the  passes,  signs  and  grips  of 
the  order,  and  especially  in  the  rallying  sign, 
which  was  three  crosses,  disposed  in  a  triangle. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  say  more  under  this 
head,  our  only  design  being  to  give  the  reader 
a  brief  sketch  of  the  so  often  denied  secret 
society  of  the  South,  which  in  time,  by  the 
aid  of  Clement  L.  Vallandingham,  of  Ohio, 
permeated  the  entire  North,  and  which,  but 
for  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  took  place 
in  the  city  of  Indianapolis  in  1863,  would 
have  resulted  in  'ire  and  bloodshed  through- 
out several  of  the  Northern  States,  and  which 
years  later  found  an  individual  culmination  in 
a  bloody  tragedy  on  an  obscure  island  in  the 
Great  River  St.  Lawrence. 

Suffice  it  to  say  that  in  this  case  Webster 
listened  to  the  schemes  which  were  in  pre- 
paration to  destroy  our  National  Capital, 
learned  the  names  of  the  plotters  and  sympa- 
thizers in  Washington,  and  in  process  of  time 
so  managed  matters  that  this  particular  camp 
of  the  Sons  of  Liberty  found  itself  immured 
behind  the  bars  of  the  Old  Capitol  Prison. 

As  a  further  instance,  it  may  be  interesting 
to  know  that  a  shrewd  detective,  who  is  yet 
living,  and  whose  name  it  is  unnecessary  to 
mention  here,  was  sent  from  Cincinnati  to 
Louisville,  Kentucky,  by  order  of  Gen.  George 
B.  McClellan,  for  the  purpose  of  uniting  with 
the  Brotherhood,  in  order  that  he  might  learn 
its  secrets,  methods  of  work,  designs  and  plans, 


Io8 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


which  he  fully  accomplished,  being  initiated, 
as  a  comparison  of  dates  shows,  at  Louisville, 
only  two  nights  later  than  was  Webster  at 
Baltimore.  The  initiatory  ceremonies,  grips, 
signs,  passes  and  signals  were  found  to  be 
identical. 

The  Knights  of  the  "  Blue  Gauntlet  "  had 
no  names.  The  individual  members  were 
known  only  by  numbers ;  and  any  order  or 
direction  from  the  Chief  was  always  sent  to  a 
number  and  not  to  a  name.  With  this,  and 
a  few  other  minor  differences,  the  Sons  of 
Liberty  and  the  Knights  of  the  Blue  Gauntlet 
were  the  same.  All  this  was  known  to  the 
police,  but  never  for  a  moment  was  there  the 
slightest  danger  apprehended,  so  powerless  for 
any  real  harm  did  the  organization  appear. 
That  it  was  not  more  closely  investigated,  and 
entirely  broken  up,  was  a  fatal  mistake  ;  real- 
ized when  too  late  to  be  remedied.  In  fact,  it 
had  been  but  little  more  than  a  year  since 
these  secret  meetings  had  been  revived,  and 
then  more  as  a  political  factor  than  any  thing 
else.  To  prevent  the  nomination  and  re- 
election of  Abraham  Lincoln  was  a  consum- 
mation ardently  desired  by  the  friends  of  the 
Confederacy.  With  'lim  no  longer  at  the 
head  of  the  government,  a  compromise  would 
be  effected,  the  war  ended,  and  virtually 
victory  would  perch  upon  the  flag  of  the 
South. 

But  from  this  semi-passive  political  position 
to  one  more  pronounced  was  easy.  All  that 
was  wanted  was  a  leader.  A  man  who,  within 
himself,  combined  all  the  elements, —  a  strong 
will,  unlimited  zeal,  unbounded  enthusiasm,  a 
strong  personal  magnetism,  and  a  blind,  un- 
reasoning devotion  to  a  cause  whether  right 
or  wrong,  coupled  with  an  overwhelming  de- 
sire for  notoriety.  Such  a  leader  they  found 
in  John  Wilkes  Booth.  As  affording  a  slight 
insight  into  his  character,  an  extract  of  a  letter 
to  the  Washington  Chronicle,  written  after  the 
assassination,  by  A.  D.  Doty,  of  Albany,  a 
soldier  then  in  Carver  hospital,  Washington, 
is  here  given.  He  says:  "At  the  commence- 
ment of  the  war,  J.  Wilkes  Booth  was  playing 
an  engagement  at  the  Gayety  Theater  in 
Albany,  N.  Y.,  which  city  attested  in  action 


more  eloquent  than  words  its  love  for  the  old 
flag  by  displaying  it  from  every  roof  and 
window,  when  the  news  came  of  the  unholy 
attack  on  Fort  Sumter.  Booth,  at  that  time, 
openly  and  boldly  avowed  his  admiration  for 
the  rebels  and  their  deeds,  which  he  character- 
ized as  the  most  heroic  of  modern  times  ;  and 
he  boasted  loudly  that  the  Southern  leaders 
knew  how  to  defend  their  rights,  and  that 
they  would  never  submit  to  oppression.  So 
vehement  and  incautious  was  he  in  his  ex- 
pressions, that  the  people  became  incensed 
and  threatened  him  with  personal  violence, 
and  he  was  compelled  to  make  a  hasty  de- 
parture from  the  city.  Before  leaving,  he 
attempted  the  life  of  an  actress  of  whom  he 
had  become  jealous.  Finding  his  way  to 
her  room  at  midnight,  he  assaulted  her  with 
a  dagger,  fortunately  inflicting  but  a  slight 
wound.  With  the  fury  of  a  tigress  she  sprang 
upon  him,  and  wrenching  the  weapon  from 
his  hand,  in  turn  wounded  him." 

These  episodes  show  that  he  was  not  only  a 
virulent  rebel,  but  was  at  heart  an  assassin. 
Not  only  was  Booth  a  murderer,  but  he  was  a 
mercenary  one.  While  he  was  willing  to  as- 
sassinate the  President,  he  wanted  pay  for 
doing  it.  Notoriety  it  would  bring,  but  with 
it  he  wanted  gold. 

All  along  during  the  war,  and  especially  in 
the  years  1863  and  1864,  Canada's  principal 
cities  swarmed  with  Southerners.  St.  Cath- 
arines, Toronto,  Kingston,  Ottawa  and  Mon- 
treal, were  especially  favored  by  these  gentle- 
men; some  of  whom  were  accredited  agents 
of  the  Confederacy,  while  they  were  all  en- 
gaged in  plotting  against  the  North,  and  set- 
ting schemes  on  foot  worthy  the  palmiest  days 
of  Diabolus,  for  the  destruction  of  our  lake 
cities  in  the  absence  of  their  defenders  who 
were  fighting  against  treason  and  rebellion  on 
Southern  soil. 

It  has  been  already  hinted  that  the  secret 
order  of  the  Knights  of  the  Golden  Circle  had 
found  a  lodgement  in  some  of  the  Northern 
States,  especially  in  the  States  of  New  York, 
Indiana  and  Illinois;  though  Pennsylvania 
and  Ohio  were  largely  represented  in  their 
councils.     In  Michigan,  Wisconsin  and  Iowa, 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND, 


109 


or  the  old 
roof   and 
le  unholy 
that  time, 
iration  for 
character- 
imes  ;  and 
rn  leaders 
and  that 
jsion.     So 
in  his  ex- 
I  incensed 
violence, 
hasty  de- 
laying,  he 
whom  he 
!s   way    to 
i  her  with 
t  a  slight 
ihe  sprang 
ipon  from 

not  only  a 
1  assassin, 
t  he  was  a 
ing  to  as- 
i  pay  for 
but  with 

jecially  in 

principal 

St.  Cath- 

and  Mon- 

se  gentle- 

ed  agents 

:re  all  en- 

,  and  set- 

niest  days 

our  lake 

iders  who 

jellion  on 

:he  secret 
Circle  had 
Northern 
ew  York, 
nsylvania 
1  in  their 
ind  Iowa, 


the  lodges  were  but  few  and  far  between.  It 
was  in  Indiana  and  Illinois,  that  their  great 
strength  lay.  In  the  former  State  there  were 
100,000  armed  and  organized  knights,  ready 
to  do  the  bidding  of  their  chiefs.  These 
were  in  constant  communication  with  the 
Southern  emissaries  who,  under  the  protection 
of  Canada,  plotted  treason,  laid  plans  to  cap- 
ture steamers  on  the  lakes  and  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  river,  fill  them  with  armed  men, 
and  simultaneously  descend  upon  Rochester, 
Buffalo,  Detroit,  Cleveland  and  Chicago,  and 
firing  them,  rob,  pillage,  and  murder,  escaping 
to  Canada  as  a  place  of  safety.  It  was  among 
the  Confederate  residents  of  Canada  that  the 
diabolical  scheme  was  set  on  foot  to  scatter 
small  pox  throughout  the  cities  of  the  North 
by  means  of  infected  rags. 

While  Indiana,  under  the  magnetic  inspira- 
tion of  that  greatest  among  the  great  war 
Governors,  Oliver  P.  Morton,  responded  with 
alacrity  to  every  demand  upon  her  for  troops, 
to  an  extent  far  beyond  her  quotas,  sending 
to  the  front,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  more  men  in 
proportion  to  her  population  than  any  other 
State  in  the  Union,  she  was  also  cursed  to  a 
much  greater  extent  with  that  abhorred  pro- 
duct of  the  rebellion,  the  "  Copperhead;  "  who 
was  also,  whenever  the  opportunity  offered,  a 
Knight  of  the  Golden  Circle.  It  has  been 
already  stated  that  they  numbered  a  hundred 
thousand.  It  is  no  wild  statement.  It  can 
be  verified  by  the  muster  rolls  of  the  order, 
captured  in  Indianapolis,  and  now  preserved 
in  the  archives  of  the  State.  A  brief  allusion 
to  the  facts,  will  refresh  the  memory  of  many 
of  our  readers,  while  the  incident  may  be  of 
some  interest. 

In  1863-4,  Indianapolis  was  a  great  military 
camp.  Sentries  were  stationed  everywhere. 
Tiie  air  was  rife  with  rumors  of  an  uprising  in 
various  portions  of  the  State.  The  camps 
around  the  city  were  more  closely  guarded 
than  ever.  Emissaries  of  those  inimical  to 
the  government  had  secretly  poisoned  the 
minds  of  many  of  the  soldiers,  and  desertions 
were  frequent.  These  were  concealed  in 
almost  inaccessible  places  and  carefully 
guarded  against  recapture.    Bands  of  Southern 


sympathizers  drilled  openly  in  the  fields. 
United  States  marshals  were  set  upon  by  in- 
furiated mobs,  maltreated  and  murdered. 
Every  citizen  went  armed.  Fearful  rumors  of 
an  impending  outbreak  permeated  the  com- 
munity, but  when,  or  how,  or  from  what  source 
the  blow  was  to  come,  none  could  tell.  Sur- 
mise was  the  only  certainty.  A  sentry  on  duty 
at  the  Union  depot  was  watching  the  unload- 
ing from  a  car  a  mass  of  boxes.  They  were 
consigned  to  Dodd  it  Co.,  merchants,  at  whose 
store  was  the  "  Repository  of  the  American 
Bible  Society,"  and  these  boxes  were  supposed 
to  contain  Bibles  for  distribution  among  the 
soldiers.  One  of  the  boxes  was  slightly 
shattered  by  the  rough  handling  it  received  at 
the  hands  of  those  who  were  unloading  the 
freight.  A  bit  of  metal  gleaming  through  a 
crevice  in  the  broken  box  attracted  the  soldier's 
attention. 

"  Nice  lot  of  books  them,"  he  said  to  him- 
self. "  Silver  plated  Bibles,  I  reckon.  Pretty 
durn  tony  them  tract  peddlers  is  gittin.  Guess 
I'll  have  a  look  at  one  of 'em,  anyhow." 

A  brief  investigation  revealed  to  the  soldier 
the  startling  fact  that  the  box  contained  re- 
volvers.  It  suddenly  occurred  to  him  that 
he  had  heard  that  the  firm  of  Dodd  &  Co. 
were  suspected  of  being  rebel  sympathizers, 
though  by  no  means  outspoken.  Unlearned, 
but  with  a  shrewdness  worth  more  in  a  case 
like  this  than  all  the  diplomas  ever  issued 
from  college  halls,  he  at  once  decided  how  to 
act.  Not  a  word  did  he  breathe  to  his  ser- 
geant, nor  to  the  officer  of  the  guard.  He 
saw  clearly  that  it  was  a  case  requiring  judg- 
ment, and  yet  promptness.  Calling  a  com- 
rade, he  was  about  to  send  him  to  the  Gen- 
eral's headquarters  with  a  note,  when  fortu- 
nately the  General  and  two  or  three  members 
of  his  staff  came  riding  down  Illinois  aveni;e. 
As  they  neared  his  post,  he  saluted  and  then 
called  to  the  General.  In  a  few  words  he 
made  known  his  discovery.  The  General  dis- 
mounted and  made  a  personal  examination, 
satisfying  himself  that  the  statement  was  true. 
Sending  for  the  officer  of  the  guard,  he  or- 
dered him  to  count  the  boxes  and  affix  a  pri- 
vate mark  to  each  one,  and  then  note  care- 


no 


A   SOrrEXIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


fully   who   came   for   them.      Mounting    his 
horse,  lie  returned  to  headquarters. 

By  a.id  by  draymen  came  for  the  boxes, 
and,  strangely  enough,  with  every  dray  load 
th.-it  moved  away,  there  loitered  along  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  street  a  lazy  unconcerned 
looking  citizen  who  always  had  business  in 
the  same  direction  the  dray  was  going.  The 
goods  were  unloaded  in  the  rear  of  Dodd  & 
Co.'s  store,  transferred  to  an  elevator  and  sent 
above.  Over  this  store,  and  three  stores  ad- 
joining, in  the  third  story,  was  an  immense 
empty  chamber  which  had  never  been  utilized. 
It  was  one  vast  unfinished  garret,  as  every  one 
supposed. 

There  were  times  when  early  in  the  morn- 
ing bits  of  paper,  on  which  three  crosses  in  a 
triangular  form  had  been  printed,  were  found 
pasted  to  fences,  trees  and  tree  boxes,  or  scat- 
tered loosely  about  ;  and  so  often  did  this 
occur  that  it  was  accepted  as  a  sign  —  but  a 
sign  of  what  ? 

The  next  morning  after  the  boxes  were 
hoisted  to  the  upper  story  of  Dodd  &  Co.'s 
store,  those  triangular  emblems  were  more 
numerous  than  ever  before.  So  were  the  lazy 
men  in  citizen's  clothes.  They  were  disrepu- 
table men,  too,  because  they  were  frequently 
seen  to  gather,  two  or  three  at  a  time,  in  the 
alley  in  the  rear  of  the  store,  and  drink  from 
a  bottle  and  then  disappear.  That  night  was 
a  great  business  night  for  Dodd  &  Co.  The 
store  was  thronged  and  never  before  were 
clerks  so  busy.  Even  the  lazy  citizen  was 
there,  having  overcome  his  indolence  so  far 
as  to  make  some  slight  purchases.  Not  hav- 
ing anything  himself  to  do,  he  noticed  what 
others  were  doing;  and,  among  other  things, 
he  noticed  that  instead  of  going  out  the  way 
they  came  in,  that  is  to  say,  by  the  front  door, 
they  went  out  at  the  back  door ;  slipped  out, 
so  to  speak,  singly  ;  and,  it  seemed  to  him,  as 
if  desirous  of  not  being  observed.  It  also 
seemed  to  him  that  he  could  hear  the  noise  of 
the  elevator  at  work.  A  careful  investigation 
showed  that  it  was  at  work,  and  that  the  cus- 
tomers were  going  into  the  story  above,  prob- 
ably to  complete  their  purchases  ! 

Be  that  as  it  may,  a  couple  of  hours  later. 


all  the  lower  part  of  the  store  was  filled  wit!; 
soldiers,  both  front  and  rear,  and  squad  after 
squad  went  up  in  the  elevator,  and  tiien  canu 
the  grand  climax.  The  boxes  of  Bibles  con- 
signed to  Dodd  &  Co.  were  found  as  marked 
and  numbered.  They  were  packed  with  navy 
revolvers  and  ammunition.  But  this  was  tlic 
least  important  of  the  capture.  This  turned 
out  to  be  the  general  headquarters  of  tiie 
order  for  the  State.  In  this  room  the  Adju- 
tant-General had  his  office.  The  rolls  and 
reports  of  the  order  were  found.  The  names 
of  the  members  of  every  camp  of  the  Knights 
of  the  Golden  Circle  in  the  State  were  there. 
It  was  a  revelation.  Men  against  whom  not 
a  breath  of  suspicion  had  ever  found  utter- 
ance, here  stood  revealed  as  officials  high  in 
the  secret  councils  of  treason.  Correspond- 
ence with  Jacob  Thompson,  Clement  C.  Clay 
and  Larry  McDonald,  then  in  Canada  as 
accredited  agents  of  the  Confederacy,  was  dis- 
covered; but  over  and  above  everything  else, 
a  plot  to  burn  the  cities  already  mentioned, 
and  the  time  when  a  general  rising  was  to 
take  place,  all  was  revealed.  The  conspira- 
tors stood  aghast,  with  no  word  of  excuse  to 
offer.  Under  a  strong  guard  they  were 
marched  away  to  the  jail  and  to  the  military 
prison,  and  by  early  morning  two  Major- 
Generals  of  the  order,  one  in  La  Fayette,  and 
another  in  Evansville,  together  with  several 
Brigadiers  f^d  Colonels,  a  score  or  more, 
were  under  arrest,  and  on  their  way  by  the 
first  trains  to  the  Capital  City.  Dodd,  Horsey 
and  Mulligan,  the  Bible  operators,  were  tried 
among  the  rest,  and  in  a  few  weeks  there  were 
no  spare  casemates  in  Fort  La  Fayette,  and 
the  Dry  Tortugas  was  crowded.  From  that 
time  a  great  fear  fell  upon  the  Knights  of  the 
Golden  Circle  in  Indiana.  Their  collapse 
was  as  complete  as  it  was  sudden.  Here  and 
there  in  the  strongest  copperhead  localities, 
an  attempt  was  made  to  revive  the  order 
under  new  names,  but  it  was  a  signal  failure. 
It  is  a  pleasure  to  be  able  to  record  the  fact 
that  the  soldier  who  first  discovered  the 
"silver  plated  Bibles"  v  as  promptly  pro- 
moted. His  coolness  and  self-command  at 
the  time  of  the  discovery  made  the  detection 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


Ill 


filled  witi. 
iquad  after 
then  caiiK 
iiblcs   con- 
as  marked 
\  with  navy 
his  was  tlif 
rhis  turned 
ers  of   the 
1  the  Adju- 
;    rolls   and 
The  nanieN 
he  Knights 
ivere   there, 
t  whom  noi 
"ound  utter- 
ials  high  in 
!3orrespond- 
ent  C.  Clay 
Canada   as 
icy,  was  dis- 
•ything  else, 
mentioned, 
sing  was  to 
e  conspira- 
f  excuse  to 
they    were 
the  military 
two    Major- 
^ayette,  and 
vith   several 
:   or   more, 
way  by  the 
odd,  Horsey 
were  tried 
s  there  were 
ayette,  and 
From  that 
ights  of  the 
eir   collapse 
Here  and 
d  localities, 
;   the   order 
gnal  failure, 
ord   the  fact 
overed    the 
omptly  pro- 
lommand  at 
le  detection 


of  the  conspirators  certain.  Had  he  been 
less  shrewd,  and  informed  his  sergeant  or 
lieutenant,  the  chances  are  that  the  find  would 
have  been  known  throughout  the  city  in  an 
hour ;  the  evening  paper  would  have  displayed 
glaring  headlines,  and  the  chance  to  entrap 
the  Knights  of  the  Golden  Circle  would  have 
been  lost. 

In  the  meantime,  Chicago,  Cleveland, 
Buffalo  and  other  lake  and  river  cities  were 
warned,  and  had  taken  measures  for  their 
own  safety.  The  Confederate  plotters  in 
Canada  saw  at  a  glance  that  the  game  was  up. 
The  chances  of  capturing  steamers  on  the 
lakes,  and  transforming  them  into  quasi  vessels 
of  war,  were  utterly  destroyed ;  and  so  they 
turned  themselves  to  the  consideration  of  new 
schemes.  They  began  to  despair  of  conquer- 
ing the  North,  and  as  a  recompense  for  defeat 
they  nourished  revenge.  Gradually  this  desire 
grew  into  a  discussion  as  to  ways  and  means, 
and  finally  led  to  the  consideration  of  a 
method  of  relief  for  the  South,  which,  could 
it  be  carried  into  effect,  would  be  the  crown- 
ing scheme  of  all.  This  was  the  assassination 
of  Lincoln,  Johnson,  Seward,  Grant,  Sherman 
and  Sheridan,  and  as  many  other  prominent 
officers  and  men  of  affairs  as  could  be  reached 
and  struck  down  at  the  same  hour,  through 
concerted  action.  This  done,  the  South  must 
be  victorious.  Visions  of  place  and  power  in 
the  future  to  those  who  could  conceive  and 
execute  this  daring  scheme  fired  their  ambi- 
tion, and  personal  aggrandizement,  more  than 
pro  patria,  urged  them  on.  But  a  tool  must 
be  found,  and  they  had  not  far  to  look. 

John  Wilkes  Booth  was  starring  in  Canada, 
and  to  him  they  instinctively  turned.  Dur- 
ing his  engagement  in  Toronto,  a  meeting 
took  place  at  the  Queen's  Hotel.  Booth  knew 
enough  about  these  men  and  some  others 
then  in  Canada,  not  to  be  surprised  at  any 
scheme  they  might  propose.  Already  they 
had  perpetrated  acts  of  villainy  that  if  even 
half  punished,  would  expatriate  them  for  life. 
On  the  other  hand  they  knew  the  man  before 
them.  They  had  fathomed  his  inordinate 
vanity,  and  well  knew  his  sordid  ambition. 
They  ministered  to  the  one,  and  made  promises 


which,  if  fulfilled,  would  abundantly  gratify 
the  other.  They  assured  him  tliat  the  succe^3 
of  the  scheme  depended  upon  himself  alone. 
That,  if  successful,  unbounded  wealth  and 
fame  to  gratify  the  most  ambitious  would 
be  his. 

At  first,  Booth  hesitated  at  the  idea  of  whole- 
sale murder.  Another  scheme  had  entered 
his  fertile  brain,  and  until  that  failed,  there 
should  be  no  murder;  but  if  it  failed,  then — 
The  plan  was  to  kidnap  the  President  and  as 
many  others  as  could  be  taken,  gag  them, 
convey  them  to  a  safe  retreat,  and  when  an 
opportunity  offered,  transfer  them  to  the  rebel 
capital.  All  these  facts  are  substantiated  by 
evidence  on  file  in  the  government  archives 
at  Washington,  among  which  is  a  letter  written 
by    Booth  which  reveals  the  entire   scheme. 

The  discovery  of  a  house  on  street  in 

Washington,  with  furnished  underground 
apartments  provided  with  manacles,  and  all 
the  accessories  of  solitary  confinement,  is  evi- 
dence indisputable.  In  an  upper  room  of  the 
same  building  the  Knigntsof  the  Blue  Gaunt- 
let held  their  secret  meetings,  and  finally 
plotted  murder. 

Throughout  all  his  base  designs  the  dra- 
matic element  in  Booth  was  always  uppermost. 
He  planned  a  triumphal  starring  trip  through- 
out the  South.  Full  of  this  idea,  he  shipped 
his  theatrical  wardrobe  from  Canada,  and 
when  his  plans  had  been  successfully  carried 
out,  he  would  don  the  buskin  once  more,  and 
become  a  theatrical  star  of  the  first  magnitude, 
though  his  crime  rather  than  his  ability  as  an 
actor,  should  prove  the  drawing  card.  If 
assassination,  which  he  now  began  to  seriously 
contemplate,  should  be  the  final  outcome  of. 
all  this  damnable  plotting,  what  a  Brutus  he 
would  become.  That  immortal  creation  of 
Shakspeare,  Julius  Caesar,  should  be  so  modi- 
fied, that  Washington  would  become  Rome, 
and  Abraham  Lincoln,  Caesar.  Payne,  and 
Atzeroth,  and  Surratt,  and  Harold,  and  half  a 
score  of  others  of  a  like  character  should  be 
the  grand  conspirators,  while  he,  the  chief 
conspirator  of  all,  the  head,  the  director,  the 
murderer  par  excellence,  would  be  the  Brutus. 
How  realistic  it  would  all  be.     A  great  Shaks- 


112 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LA^'RENCE  RIVER. 


perean  tragedy,  only  modified  in  some  par- 
ticulars to  adapt  it  to  time  and  circumstance, 
played  by  a  troupe  whose  leading  characters 
were  real  assassins!  What  a  triumpli  of  the 
'Thespian  art!  What  a  modern  histrionic  suc- 
cess! One  thing  only  was  lacking.  Were  it 
but  possible  to  assassinate  a  veritable  Lincoln 
at  every  presentation  of  the  play,  nothing  more 
could  be  desired. 

Booth  soon  discovered  that  his  scheme  of 
kidnapping  could  not  be  carried  out.  It  was 
deemed  too  rash.  He  could  find  no  one  who 
would  engage  in  the  hazardous  undertaking. 
Something  must  be  done  to  satisfy,  first,  his 
own  egotistic  ambition,  and,  second,  to  earn 
the  guerdon  of  blood,  an  earnest  of  which,  in 
English  gold,  he  had  already  received  at  the 
hands  of  his  employers,  the  Confederate  agents 
of  the  South. 

Now  he  began  to  plan  in  earnest  the  vil- 
lainous scheme  of  assassination.  Furnished 
with  abundant  funds,  he  dropped  an  anchor 
to  windward  by  depositing  four  hundred  and 
fifty-five  dollars,  his  own  money,  in  the  Bank 
of  Ontario,  at  Montreal.  This,  with  date  of 
entry,  was  shown  by  his  bank  book,  which 
was  captured  with  Atzeroth. 

Then  came  a  search  for  the  proper  tools. 
Along  the  eastern  boundary  of  Kentucky, 
bordering  on  Virginia,  in  a  region  of  hills  and 
mountains  almost  inaccessible,  is  a  section  of 
country  which,  for  yearS;  has  been  the  home 
of  family  feuds,  which  have  resulted  in  nu- 
merous murders,  and,  consequently  in  the 
growth  of  a  class  of  men  who  held  life  very 
cheap,  and  to  whom  a  bloody  vendetta  was 
but  a  recreation.  In  the  midst  of  such  asso- 
ciations, seven  brothers,  named  Payne,  had 
grown  up.  They  were  outlaws  born,  robbers 
by  profession,  and  murderers  from  choice, 
though  the  sons  of  a  Christian  minister.  So 
bold  had  they  become,  and  so  bloody  their 
raids,  especially  on  the  homes  of  those  moun- 
taineers suspected  of  favoring  the  Union, 
that  at  length  troops  were  sent  into  their 
neighborhood  with  instructions  to  kill  or  cap- 
ture them.  It  was  a  cavalry  force  under  the 
lead  of  an  officer  only  too  well  disposed  to 
carry  out  his   instructions.     The  father  was 


captured  and  imprisoned,  and  the  sons  made 
their  escape.  Three  of  tliem  went  to  Soutli 
America,  and  four  of  them  to  Florida,  and 
thence  to  Canada.  Two  of  tiieni  were  en- 
gaged in  the  St.  Albans  raiH,  one  escaped, 
and  the  other,  Lewis  Payne,  under  the  as- 
sumed name  of  Wood,  and  by  the  direction 
of  the  Confederate  agents  in  Canada,  reported 
to  Booth  in  Washington,  where,  later  on,  he 
was  joined  by  John  A.  Payne,  one  of  his 
brothers,  whom  he  had  left  in  Canada.  Here, 
then,  is  a  list  of  conspirators,  all  of  whom  have 
joined  the  Knights  of  the  Blue  Gauntlet — 
Booth,  the  two  Paynes,  one  of  whom  was 
known  as  Wood,  John  H.  Surratt,  Sam  Ar- 
nold, McLaughlin,  Harold,  John  Lloyd,  and 
several  others,  who  took  the  alarm  and  escaped 
in  time  to  avoid  arrest. 

The  assassination  of  Murat  by  Charlotte 
Corday,  of  Normandy,  is  one  of  the  conspicu- 
ous instances  on  record,  that  a  woman  may 
become  an  assassin;  and  even  though  we  may 
applaud  and  justify  her  act,  yet  it  was  assas- 
sination ;  and  because  it  was  at  the  hands  of 
a  woman,  its  dramatic  effect  was  increased 
tenfold.  Keeping  the  dramatic  effect  in  view, 
Booth  determined  to  have  a  woman  in  this 
case,  and  it  was  not  long  before  he  became 
acquainted  with  the  very  person  he  needed. 

Ten  miles  from  Washington,  in  Prince 
George's  county,  Maryland,  was  a  little  cross- 
roads hamlet  called  Surraltsville.  The  prin- 
cipal property  there  was  a  hotel ;  one  of  those 
fine  old  Southern  hostelries  which,  when  in 
the  right  hands,  was  as  complete  a  home  as  a 
temporary  stopping  place  can  be  made  to  be. 
The  owner  gave  his  name  to  the  village  and 
his  property  to  his  wife,  and  died  peaceably, 
as  a  good  landlord  should.  The  wife  carried 
on  the  hotel  business  for  a  while  and  then 
rented  the  property  to  one  John  Lloyd  "-e- 
moving  with  her  son  and  several  daug'  ' 
Washington.  Early  in  the  conflict,  S  .is- 
ville  became  a  rebel  post-office,  and  M  Sur- 
ratt a  post-mistress.  When  she  removeu  to 
Washington,  John  Lloyd  looked  after  the 
mails.  In  renting  her  hotel,  Mrs.  Surratt  re- 
served apartments  for  her  own  use  whenever 
she  chose  to  visit  Surrattsville.     Mrs.  Surratt 


For 
a  cle 
eral 
ber 
treai 
A 
cous 
teres 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


113 


sons  made 

,  to  South 

orida,   and 

were  en- 

e   escaped, 

cr    tlie  as- 

e  direction 

la,  reported 

ater  on,  he 

one   of   his 

ada.    Here, 

whom  have 

Gauntlet— 

whom  was 

t,  Sam  Ar- 

Lloyd,  and 

and  escaped 

y  Charlotte 
le  conspicu- 
w'oman  may 
lugh  we  may 
t  was  assas- 
le  hands  of 
as  increased 
iffect  in  view, 
>man  in  this 
;  he  became 
I  he  needed. 
1,  in  Prince 
a  little  cross- 
,     The  prin- 

one  of  those 
ch,  when  in 

a  home  as  a 

made  to  be. 
;  village  and 
d  peaceably, 
;  wife  carried 
lile  and  then 
n   Lloyd    f-e- 

dau;. 
lict,  ;• 

and  Ml  Sur- 
:  removeu  to 
ed  after  the 
rs.  Surratt  re- 
use whenever 

Mrs.  Surratt 


WIS  a  large,  masculine  woman,  always  self- 
possessed,  and  in  her  way,  as  dangerous  a 
rebel  as  was  ever  Belle  Boyd  or  Rose  Green- 
how.  John  Wilkes  Booth  could  not  have 
toimd  a  fitter  agent  in  all  Washington,  and  at 
htr  house  in  the  city  and  her  rooms  in  the 
(ountry  tavern  Booth  was  ever  welcome,  and 
there  treason  took  definite  shape. 

After  the  preliminaries  had  all  been  settled, 
a  plan  of  escape  was  to  be  devised.  To  this 
end.  Booth  took  a  trip  on  horseback  through 
lower  Maryland  as  far  as  Leonardstown,  pro- 
fessing to  purchase  land,  but  in  reality  to 
mark  on  his  map  every  spot  and  place,  and 
every  road  and  crossing  which  might  in  the 
near  future  become  useful.  He  had  provided 
himself  with  one  of  the  maps  which  was  pub- 
lished for  the  rebel  government  by  a  copper- 
head firm  in  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  but  which  was 
not  full  enough  for  his  purposes,  and  so  he 
made  the  needed  corrections  after  personal 
examination. 

The  conspiracy  made  no  undue  haste.  All 
the  influence  thereto  was  absorbed  by  Booth 
and  Mrs.  Surratt.  He  was  the  chief  plotter 
and  she  his  main  stay.  Even  among  the 
principals,  assassination,  though  agreed  upon, 
was  never  referred  to  except  by  implication. 
To  have  openly  spoken  of  murder  among 
themselves  and  in  their  most  secret  consulta- 
tions, would  not  have  been  tolerated  for  a  mo- 
ment. It  was  against  the  canons  of  polite 
society.  In  this  society  Booth  was  at  home; 
he  was  supreme;  cool,  vigilant  and  plausible; 
the  chief  command  was  easily  accorded  him, 
and  he  felt  himself  great  in  intellectual  stat- 
ure. Mrs.  Surratt  was  too  shrewd  to  embroil 
any  member  of  her  family  in  the  conspiracy; 
and  so  it  happened  that  young  Surratt,  though 
f'Uy  cognizant  of  everything,  was  sent  north 
i  mother  a  day  before  the  assassination. 

For  a  year  or  more  he  had  been  employed  as 
a  cler'-  in  the  office  of  the  Commissary-Gen- 
eral o  Prisoners.  He  was  a  prominent  mem- 
ber of  the  Knights  of  the  Blue  Gauntlet,  and 
treasurer  of  the  camp. 

An  extract  or  t"o  from  a  letter  of  his  to  a 
cousin  residing  i  ^  New  York,  may  be  of  in- 
terest : 


"  Office  of  tiif.  Commissary-Gf.nerai,  , 

01     I'klSONKkS,  t 

Washington,  D.  C,  Feb.  6,  1865.  ) 
'  Miss  Bki.i.k  Seaman  ; 

"  Dear  CoibiN.  —  I  received  your  letter,  .')iid  not 
being  quite  so  sellisli  as  you  are,  I  will  answer  it  in 
what  I  call  a  reasonable  time.  I  am  happy  to  say 
that  we  are  all  well  and  in  line  spirits.  Wo  have 
been  looking  for  you  to  come  on,  with  a  great  deal 
of  impatience.  Do  come,  won't  you  ?  Just  to  think, 
I  have  never  yet  seen  one  of  my  cousins.  Hut  never 
fear,  I  will  probably  sec  you  all  sooner  than  you  ex- 
pect. Next  week  I  leave  for  F.urope,  and  may  give 
you  acall,  as  I  go  to  New  York.  »  *  *  I  have  just 
taken  a  peep  in  the  parlor.  Would  you  like  to 
know  what  I  saw  there  !  Well,  Ma  was  sitting  on 
the  sofa,  nodding  first  to  one  chair,  then  another, 
and  then  the  piano.  Anna  is  sitting  in  a  corner, 
dreaming,  I  expect,  of  J.  W.  Mootli.  Who  is  J.  W. 
Booth?  Well,  she  can  answer  that  question. 
*  *  *  Hut  hark,  the  door-bell  rings,  and  Mr. 
J.  W.  Hooth,  is  announced.  Just  listen  to  the  scam- 
pering. Such  brushing  and  fixing.  Wc  all  send 
love  to  you  and  family. 

"  Your  Cousin, 
"J.   HARRISON  SURRATT, 
"  541  II  Street,  between  6tli  and  7th  streets." 

Matters  were  now  approaching  a  crisis.  It 
was  at  first  intended  that  the  assassination 
should  take  place  during  the  inauguration 
ceremonies,  but  it  was  finally  decided  to  be 
too  risky.  When  it  became  known  that  the 
President  would  appear  in  public  at  Ford's 
Theatre,  the  time  for  definite  action  was  plain. 

Booth's  principal  actors  were  now  assigned 
their  parts.  John  Harrison  Surratt  was  to  go 
north  into  Canada,  and  on  hearing  of  the 
result,  if  all  was  right,  he  was  to  repair  at  once 
to  Toronto  and  there  claim  the  promised  gold 
and  iTiake  his  way  to  Richmond.  Atzeroth 
was  to  murder  the  Vice-president,  Andrew 
Jackson  ;  Lewis  Payne,  or  Wood  as  he  called 
himself,  was  to  look  after  Seward  ;  Sam 
Arnold  and  McLaughlin,  were  each  to  kill  a 
cabinet  officer,  and  John  Lloyd,  a  general. 
John  A.  Payne,  with  two  confederates,  had 
gone  to  North  Carolina  to  look  after  Sherman. 
Harold  was  the  stage  manager,  and  looked 
after  the  properties.  Horses  and  arms  were 
provided,  and  every  possible  avenue  of  escape 
cleared,  even  to  cutting  the  telegraph  wires 
around  the  city.     On  the  very  afternoon   of 


114 


A  SOUVEXIR  OF   THE 


LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


the  murder  Mrs.  Surratt  visited  Surrattsville 
and  told  John  Lloyd  to  have  the  carbines 
which  young  Surratt  hid  placed  in  his  care, 
ready  for  immediate  use,  as  they  would  be 
needed  that  night.  Lloyd  had  sent  his  wite 
away  on  a  visit.  Three  veeks  before  the 
murder,  Harold  told  some  *"riends  that  the 
next  time  they  heard  of  him  he  would  be 
in  Spain:  adding  that  there  was  "  nu  extra- 
dition treaty  with  that  country."'  John  Lloyd 
told  friends  at  Surrattsville  that  he  would 
"  make  a  barrel  of  money  or  thai  his  neck 
wou'd  stretch."  Atzeroth  said  in  Port  To- 
bacco, that  if  he  "  ever  visited  that  place 
again  he  ./ou'd  be  rich  enough  to  buy  it." 

On  thai  fat.^ful  Friday  night  Ford's  Theater 
was  crowded.      Long  before  the  curtain  rose, 
the  "  Standing  room  only  "  card  was  displayed 
at  the  ticket  office  windov/.     Near  the  door, 
the  Icbby  was  ciowded.     Booth  went  on  the 
stage,  and   f^om   behind    the   scei^es  looked 
searchingly    over    the    audience.      Suddenly 
near  the  door,  a  voice  was  heard.      It  said  : 
"  Nine  o'clock  and  forty-five  minutes  !  " 
The  words  were  r  peated  by  other  voices 
until  they  reached  the  sidewalk.     While  peo- 
ple wondered,  the  voice  said  agam  : 
"  Nine  o'clock  and  fifty  minutes  !  " 
This  also  passed  on  as  before,  and  then  — 
after  an  interval  — 

*'  Nine  o'clock  and  fifty-five  minutes  !  " 
The  life  of  the-  President  was  growing 
shorter  by  intervals  of  five  minutes  each. 
The  bells  in  the  clock  totvers  tolled  out  ten 
o'clock.  V/hy,  they  knew  net,  but  a  shudder 
crept  through  the  audience. 

"  Ten  o'clock  and  five  minutes  !  " 
Another  interval.     Then  : 
"  Ten  o'clock  and  ten  minutes  !  *' 
At  this  instant    Hooi.i   entered   the  door  of 
the  theater,  and   the   men  who  had  so  faith- 
fully repeated  th(.  murder-laden  minutes  scat- 
tered  as  tliough   a  messenger  of   Death   had 
ajjproaciied.      Five    miraites    more    and    the 
deed  was  done. 

At  the  same  moment  Payne  was  scattering 
blcod  from  room  to  room  in  Secretary  Sew- 
ard's home.  Having  murdered  Mr.  Seward, 
as   he    thought,   and   but  for    Robinson,   the 


no'se,  it  would  have  been  an  accomplished 
fac%  he  mounted  his  horse  and  attempted  to 
find  Booth  and  Harold,  but  the  selfishness  of 
crime  was  uppermost,  and  they  had  gone  and 
left  him  to  his  fate.  The  city  was  alarmed, 
and  he  fled  to  the  open  country  ;  when  near 
Port  Lincoln,  on  the  Baltimore  pike,  his 
horse  stumbled  and  threw  him  headlong. 
Half  stunned  and  bewildered,  he  arose  and 
resolving  to  return  to  the  city,  attempted  to 
disguise  himself. 

He  threw  away  his  bloody  coat,  which  was 
afterward  found,  and  from  a  sleeve  of  his 
woolen  undershirt  he  fashioned  a  rude  cap, 
and  then,  plentifully  daubing  himself  with 
mud  and  clav,  and  shouldering  a  pick  which 
he  found  in  the  intrenchments  near  by,  he 
started  for  Washington. 

He  reached  Mrs.  Surratt's  door  just  as  the 
officers  were  arresting  her.  He  was  taken 
into  custody.  He  had  come,  he  said,  to  dig 
a  ditch  for  Mrs.  Surratt,  who  hau  hired  him. 
With  all  the  effrontery  of  crime,  Mrs.  Surratt 
protested  that  she  had  never  before  seen  the 
man,  and  that  she  had  no  ditch  to  dig  The 
officers  washed  Payne's  hands  and  found  them 
to  be  soft  and  tender  as  a  woman's.  In  his 
pockets  they  found  tooth  and  nail  brushes, 
and  a  delicate  pocket  knife.  Unusual  toilet 
implements  to  be  found  on  the  person  cf  a 
digger  of  ditches. 

Atzeroth's  room  at  the  Kirkwood  was 
directly  over  that  of  Vice-President  Johnson. 
He  was  there  to  do  murder,  but  the  opportu- 
nity failed,  and  his  courage  also.  He  fled  in 
such  haste  that  he  left  his  weapons,  a  bowie 
knife  and  revolver,  between  the  mattresses  of 
his  bed.  Booth's  coat  was  found  in  his  room, 
and  in  the  pockets  were  riding  gauntlets, 
boxes  of  cartridges,  a  map  of  Maryland,  pub- 
lished in  Buffalo,  and  corrected  by  his  own 
hand,  a  spur,  and  a  handkerchief  marked  with 
his  mother's  name.  Atzeroth  fled  alone,  and 
wiien  captured  was  at  the  house  of  hio  uncle 
in  Montgomery  county,  Maryland.  Sam 
Arnold  and  McLaughlin  grew  faint  hearted 
and  ran  away,  wiii  out  making  the  slightest 
attempt  to  carry  out  their  part  of  the  pro- 
gramme. 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


IIS 


complished 
tempted  to 
;lfishness  of 
d  gone  and 
as  alarmed, 

when  near 
;  pike,  his 
I    headlong. 

arose  and 
ttempted  to 

,  which  was 
seve  of  his 
L  rude  cap, 
imself  with 
pick  which 
lear  by,  he 

just  as  the 
was  taken 
said,  to  dig 
hired  him. 
ilrs.  Surratt 
re  seen  the 
)  dig  The 
found  them 
I's.  In  his 
il  brushes, 
usual  toilet 
:)erson  cf  a 

wood  was 
It  Johnson, 
le  opportu- 
ne fled  in 
ns,  a  bowie 
attresses  of 
n  his  room, 
gauntlets, 
yland,  pub- 
jy  his  own 
larked  with 
alone,  and 
)f  hio  uncle 
nd.  Sam 
nt  hearted 
^le  slightest 
)f  the   pro- 


It  was  not  until  Thursday  night  that  the 
real  intentions  of  Booth  became  fully  known 
to  the  Knights  of  the  Blue  Gauntlet.  John  H. 
Surratt,  before  'eaving  the  city  on  Thursday 
morning,  confided  the  facts  to  a  brother 
Knight.  Confusion  and  terror  ensued,  and 
many  of  the  band  hurriedly  fled  from  the 
city,  and  those  who  remained  kept  themselves 
in  seclusion.  Booth,  with  his  accustomed 
duplicity,  had  kept  them  in  ignorance,  lead- 
ing them  to  believe  that  the  plan  of  abduction 
was  the  one  to  be  pursued.  So  frightened 
were  they  that  the  lodge  room,  with  its  para- 
phernalia, was  left  undisturbed,  and  with  it  the 
cells  in  the  basement  still  furnished,  in  which 
condition  they  were  found  by  officers  later 
on.  Canada  was  a  refuge  for  Southern  rebel- 
dom,  and  thither  they  fled. 

Booth  and  Harold  met  immediately  after 
the  murder,  and  sped  away  at  a  gallop  past 
the  Patent  Office,  up  and  over  Capitol  hill, 
and  away  to  the  bridge  which  crossed  the 
Eastern  branch  at  Uniontown,  and  at  mid- 
night they  drew  rein  at  Surrattsville.  Harold 
dismounted,  and  entering  the  bar  procured  a 
bottle  of  whi.sky  which  he  handed  to  Booth, 
and  then  rushing  up  stairs  he  brought  down 
one  of  the  carbines  which  had  been  left  there 
by  John  H.  Surratt.  One  only  was  taken. 
The  other,  left  in  the  hall,  was  found  by  the 
officers.  As  they  started  off,  Booth  said  to 
Lloyd-  "We  Iiave  murdered  the  President  of 
the  United  States  and  the  Secretary  of  State." 
Before  sunrise  on  Saturday  morning  they 
reached  the  house  of  Dr-  Mudd.  Here  Booth's 
injured  leg,  one  of  the  bones  of  which  was 
broken  when  he  jumped  down  upon  the  stage 
at  the  theatre,  was  set.  A  link  in  the  chain 
of  evidence  was  left  here;  Booth's  riding  boot 
had  to  be  cut  to  get  it  from  his  foot,  and  his 
name  was  written  in  tlie  inside  of  the  leg  on 
the  lining.  It  was  not  noticed,  and  so  it 
remained  there  until  found  by  the  officers  in 
pursuit;  one  of  the  clews  which  revealed  the 
route  of  the  fugitives.  They  were  concealed 
u  Dr.  Mudd's  during  the  day,  but  at  night, 
mounting  their  horses,  they  rode  away  in  the 
direction  of  Allen's  Fresh.  It  was  to  Allen's 
Fresh    that   Lloyd  had  sent  his  wife  on  a  visit 


to  get  her  out  of  the  way.  By  the  aid  of  a 
negro,  to  whom  they  gave  five  dollars,  they 
reached  the  house  of  one  Sam  Co.xe,  at  mid- 
night. Coxe  was  a  notorious  rebel,  and  though 
the  fact  could  not  be  fully  established,  enough 
was  learned  to  convince  all  who  heard  his  ex- 
amination that  he  was  well  aware  of  the  con- 
spiracy. 

The  negro,  whose  name  was  Swan,  remained 
at  Coxe's  until  they  were  ready  to  go,  when 
he  was  to  pilot  them  further  on  their  road. 
Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  Swan  had  seen 
them  eating  and  di inking,  the  refugees  when 
they  left  the  house  swore  bitterly  at  Coxe  for 
his  lack  of  hospitality.  This  was  to  blind  the 
negro;  for  after  they  had  ridden  about  five 
miles,  they  told  him  t^hat  they  now  knew  the 
road,  and  would  no  longer  have  need  of  his 
services;  and  giving  him  five  dollars  more  they 
rode  on.  But  Swan  was  a  shrewd  negro,  and 
so  he  watched  them  until  he  saw  them  turn 
back  to  Coxe's  again,  where  thoy  were  har- 
bored from  Sunday  until  the  next  Thursday. 

The  next  move  of  the  fugitives  was  to  cross 
the  Potomac.  This  was  a  move  of  some 
danger.  Friday  evening  a  white  man  was 
seen  to  bring  a  canoe  to  the  shore  and  anchor 
it  with  a  stone.  Between  seven  and  eight 
o'clock  the  next  morning  it  disappeared,  and 
in  the  afternoon  some  workmen  saw  two  men 
land  in  a  canoe  on  the  south  side  of  ihe 
Potomac,  and  strike  across  a  jiloughed  field 
toward  King  George  Court  House.  One  of 
the  men  walked  with  a  crutch.  Booth  was 
provided  with  a  crutch  at  the  house  of  Dr. 
Mudd.  They  were  next  heard  of  at  the  Port 
Royal  Ferry,  and  then  at  Garrett's  house. 
Now,  the  long-persecuted  Unionists  of  Lower 
Maryland  began  to  come  forward  and  give 
important  testimony,  which  under  threats  and 
intimidation  they  never  before  dared  to  whis- 
per. They  toid  of  the  meetings  of  the  conspir- 
ators at  Lloyd's  Hotel  in  Surrattsville,  and 
then  Lloyd  was  arrested,  Booth's  carbine 
found,  and  three  days  later  Lloyd  confessed. 
A  little  party  of  detectives  under  the  untiring 
Lovett  overhauled  the  residence  of  Dr.  Mudd, 
where  they  found  Booth's  boots.  This  was 
before  Lloyd  confessed,  and  was  the  first  posi- 


ii6 


A  SOUVENIR  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


tive  evidence  the  officers  had  that  they  were 
upon  the  trail  of  the  murderers.  Much  of  the 
after  success  of  the  pursuit  was  due  to  the  care- 
ful work  done  by  this  little  squad  of  detectives. 

A  second  party,  under  the  charge  of  Major 
O'Beirne,  now  took  the  field.  Through  these 
the  hiding  place  of  Atzeroth  was  discovered, 
and  he  was  arrested.  With  this  party  was 
Captain  Beckwith,  Gen.  Grant's  chief  cipher 
operator,  who  tapped  the  wire  at  Point  Look- 
out, and  thus  put  the  War  Department  in 
momentary  communication  with  the  theater 
of  events.  By  this  time  the  troops  were 
assembling  in  various  parts  of  the  country  in 
considerable  numbers.  Seven  hundred  men 
of  the  Eighth  Illinois  Cavalry,  six  hundred  men 
of  the  Twenty-second  Colored  Volunteers  and 
one  hundred  of  the  Sixteenth  New  York  were 
patrolling  the  country  by  detachments,  while 
Major  O'Beirne  and  Col.  Wells,  with  a  force 
of  cavalry  and  infantry,  swept  the  entire 
peninsula  with  a  line  of  skirmishers  deployed 
in  close  intervals.  Major  O'Beirne,  with  his 
detectives,  then  crossed  the  Potomac  and 
found  where  the  fugitives  had  landed  from 
the  canoe  on  Boone's  farm.  This  was  another 
link  in  the  chain  which  gave  a  clew  to  their 
route. 

Now  comes  the  chief  of  the  secret  service, 
Col.  Lafayette  Baker,  on  the  scene.  Absent 
from  Washington  at  the  time  of  the  murder, 
he  returned  three  days  after,  by  order  of 
Secretary  Stanton,  and  engaged  at  once  in  the 
search  for  Booth.  He  possessed  himself  of 
all  the  War  Department  knew  regarding  the 
matter,  and  then  acted.  His  first  find  was  a 
negro  who  saw  Booth  and  Harold  when  they 
crossed  the  Potomac. 

Sending  to  General  Hancock  for  twenty- 
five  cavalrymen  and  an  oflicer,  Lieutenant 
Edward  P.  Doherty,  he  sat  down  to  his  maps 
to  decide  upon  the  probable  route  of  the 
fugitives.  He  knew  that  they  would  not  keep 
close  to  the  coast  owing  to  the  difficulty  in 
crossing  swr.mps  and  rivers,  nor  would  they 
talte  any  direction  leading  east  of  Richmond, 
where  they  were  likely  at  any  time  to  strike 
our  lines.  He  soon  decided  that  they  would 
be  most  likely  to  pass  through  Port  Royal, 


and  there  he  hoped  to  intercept  them.  Th 
Utile  force  of  cavalry  detailed  from  Company 
G,  i6th  N.  Y.,  under  the  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant Doherty,  having  reported,  he  placed 
them  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Conger,  of  Ohio,  and  Lieutenant  L.  I!. 
Baker,  of  New  York,  and  sent  them  direct  to 
Belle  Plain,  on  the  lower  Potomac,  from  thence 
to  scour  the  whole  country  north  of  Port 
Royal.  Here  they  found  a  negro  who  had 
driven  two  men,  in  his  wagon,  a  short  distance 
toward  Bowling  Green.  These  men  answered 
the  description  of  the  fugitives.  The  ferry- 
man who  took  the  party  across  the  Rappa- 
hannock gave  them  information  of  the  utmost 
importance,  though  wrung  from  him  by  threats. 
They  learned  that  the  two  men  were  at  that 
moment  lying  at  the  house  of  one  G?.r.ett, 
which  they  had  passed  some  time  before. 
Retracing  their  steps,  the  nearly  exhausted 
cavalrymen  reached  Garrett's  at  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  It  was  a  pale  moonlight 
night.  The  plain  old  farmhouse  was  dimly 
seen  through  a  locust  grove.  It  stood  about 
three  hundred  yards  from  the  road,  and  behind 
it  an  old  weather-beaten  barn,  some  long  corn 
cribs,  and  a  cattle  shed. 

Entering  the  roadside  gate,  the  troops  rode 
up  to  the  house.  Lieutenant  Doherty  picketed 
the  premises,  and  then  rode  up  to  a  side  en- 
trance and  rapped.  An  old  man  in  his  night 
clothes,  with  a  candle  in  his  hand,  made  his 
appearance.     It  was  Garret. 

"  Where  are  the  men  who  are  staying  with 
you  J  "  asked  Doherty. 

"They  are  gone,"  he  said.  "They  went 
to  the  woods  this  afternoon." 

In  the  meantime  a  lad,  John  M.  Garrett, 
had  been  found  by  one  of  Doherty's  men  in  a 
corncrib.  Questioned  in  earnest,  he  saw  that 
evasion  would  not  do,  and  at  once  revealed 
the  fact  that  Booth  and  Harrold  were  asleep 
in  the  barn.  Doherty  had  already  threatened 
to  search  the  house,  and  the  women  were  up 
and  dressed,  but  this  news  changed  the  pro- 
gramme. 

The  troops  were  dismounted  and  the  barn 
surrounded.  Baker  hailed  the  persons  inside, 
who  could  now  be  heard  stirring. 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


117 


them.  Th 
m  Company 
nd  of  Lieu- 
he  placed 
Lieutenant- 
tenant  L.  I!, 
em  direct  to 
from  thence 
:th   of    Port 

0  who  had 
ort  distance 
en  answered 

The  ferry- 

the   Rappa- 

the  utmost 

1  by  threats, 
vere  at  that 
ne  Gr.r.ett, 
me  before. 
'  exhausted 
two  o'clock 

moonlight 

was  dimly 

itood  about 

and  behind 

e  long  corn 

troops  rode 
rty  picketed 
}  a  side  en- 
in  his  night 
I,  made  his 

itaying  with 

They  went 

VI.  Garrett. 

''s  men  in  a 
he  saw  that 
:e  revealed 
were  asleep 
threatened 
en  were  up 
;d  the  pro- 

d  the  barn 
sons  inside, 


Lieut.  Baker  called  to  them:  "We  are 
about  to  send  in  the  son  of  the  vmn  in  whose 
custody  you  are  found.  Surrender  your  arms 
to  him,  and  give  yourselves  up  or  we  will  fire 
the  place." 

There  was  no  answer.  The  door  was 
opened  and  young  Garret  pushed  inside,  ap- 
|)oaled  to  them  to  surrender.  With  an  oath 
Booth  said:  "Get  out  of  here.  You  have 
betrayed  us."  The  boy  slipped  out  again  as 
the  door  was  slightly  opened,  and  reported 
that  his  errand  had  failed. 

The  summons  was  repeated  by  Baker. 
"  You  must  surrender!  Give  up  your  arms 
and  come  out!  There  is  no  chance  for  escape. 
We  give  you  ten  minutes  to  make  up  your 
minds." 

Then  came  the  demand :  "  Who  are  you, 
and  what  do  you  want  with  us?" 

Baker  again  said:  "  We  want  you  to  deliver 
up  your  arms  and  become  our  prisoners." 

After  a  lapse  of  some  minutes,  Baker  hailed 
again:  "Well,  we  have  waited  long  enough; 
come  out  and  surrender,  or  we'll  fire  the  barn. " 

Booth  answered:  "I  am  a  cripple,  a  one- 
legged  man.  Withdraw  your  forces  twenty- 
five  paces  from  the  door,  and  I  will  come. 
Give  me  a  chance  for  my  life.  I  will  never 
be  taken  alive." 

"  We  did  not  come  here  to  fight,  but  to 
capture  you.  Surrender,  or  the  barn  will  be 
fired,"  said  Doherty. 

"  Well,  then,  my  brave  boys,  prepare  a 
stretcher  for  me,"  cried  Booth. 

Then  there  was  a  pause,  during  which  a 
discussion  between  Booth  and  his  companion 
was, heard.     Booth  said,  *'  Get  away  from  me. 

You're  a coward,  and  want  to  leave  me  in 

my  distress;  but  go  —  go!  I  don't  want  you 
to  slay  —  I  won't  have  you  stay  ! '"  Then  he 
shouted:  "There's  a  man  inside  here  who 
wants  to  surrender." 

Then  Harold  rattled  at  the  door,  and 
begged  to  be  let  out,  saying,  "I  want  to 
surrender." 

"  Hand  out  your  arms,  then,"  said  Doherty. 

"I  have  none." 

"  You  are  the  man  who  carried  the  carbine 
yesterday;  bring  it  out." 


"  I  haven't  got  any."     In  a  whining  tone. 

Booth  then  said:  "On  the  word  and  honor 
of  a  man  and  a  gentleman,  he  has  no  arms 
with  him.     They  are  mine,  and  I  have  them.' 

Harold  came  to  the  door,  was  seized  and 
pulled  out  by  Doherty,  handcuffed  and  turned 
over  to  Corporal  Newgarten. 

Booth  then  made  his  last  appeal.  "Captain, 
give  me  a  chance.  Draw  off  your  men  and  I 
will  fight  them  singly.  I  could  have  killed 
you  six  times  to-night,  but  I  believe  you  to 
be  a  brave  man,  and  would  not  murder  you. 
Give  a  lame  man  a  show." 

It  was  too  late  for  further  parley.  Before 
he  had  ceased  to  speak  Colonel  Conger  slipped 
around  to  the  rear  of  the  barn,  and  drawing 
some  loose  straws  through  a  crack  set  them 
on  fire.  They  were  dry  and  soon  in  a  blaze 
lighting  up  every  part  of  the  great  barn.  At 
sight  of  the  fire  Booth  dropped  his  crutch  and 
carbine  and  crept  on  his  hands  and  knees  to 
the  spot  hoping  to  see  the  incendiary  and  shoot 
him  down.  Then  he  turned  upon  the  fire  as 
if  to  leap  upon  and  extinguish  it ;  but  it  had 
gained  too  much  headway.  Turning,  he 
made  for  the  door,  resolved  not  to  die  alone, 
when  Sergeant  Boston  Corbett,  thinking  that 
he  was  about  to  shoot  Lieutenant  Doherty, 
fired  with  the  intention  of  hitting  him  in  the 
arm,  but  instead  of  the  arm  the  bullet  struck 
him  in  the  head,  barely  an  inch  from  the  spot 
where  the  assassin's  bullet  struck  the  murdered 
President. 

It  was  first  thought  that  he  had  shot  him- 
self. He  fell  into  the  arms  of  Lieutenant 
Doherty,  who  brought  him  out  of  the  burning 
barn  and  laid  him  upon  the  grass.  Water  was 
brought  and  dashed  upon  his  face,  and  he  re- 
vived. He  was  then  carried  to  the  porch  of 
the  house  and  laid  upon  a  mattress.  Brandy 
and  water  was  given  him,  and  when  able  to 
speak  he  said:  "Useless,  useless."  The 
soldiers  extinguished  the  fire.  Booth  muttered 
"Kill  me!  Kill  me!"  Brandy  was  given  him 
every  minute,  and  the  doctor  who  lived  six 
miles  away,  arrived  but  could  do  nothing. 
Booth  asked  to  have  his  hands  raised  so  that 
he  could  see  them;  his  arms  were  paralyzed, 
so  that  he  knew  not  where  they  were.     When 


Ii8 


A   SOUVENIR   OF   THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


they  were  shown  him,  he  muttered:  "  Useless, 
useless!  "  They  were  his  last  words;  applica- 
ble not  only  to  his  hands,  but  to  his  whole 
life.  "Useless."  And  so  he  died.  His 
remains  were  sewed  up  in  a  saddle  blanket, 
placed  in  a  rickety  old  wagon  drawn  by  an 
ancient  relic  of  a  horse,  and  the  march  to 
Washington  was  begun.  The  arms  found 
with  him  were  a  knife,  a  repeating  carbine  and 
a  pair  of  revolvers.  A  diary,  bills  of  exchange 
and  Canada  money  were  found  on  his  person. 
Harold  was  mounted  on  a  horse,  his  legs  tied 
to  the  stiirups,  and  placed  in  charge  of  four 
men,  and  the  cortege  of  retributive  justice 
moved  on. 

"  Though  the  mills  of  God  grind  slowly, 
Yet  they  grind  exceedi  i-r  small ; 
Though  with  patience  He  stands  waiting. 
With  exactness  grinds  He  all." 

Ferrying  once  more  at  Port  Royal  they 
pushed  en  for  Belle  Plain,  reaching  there 
about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when 
they  embarked  for  Washington,  where  a  few 
only  were  permitted  to  see  the  corpse  for  the 
purpose  of  identification.  That  this  should 
be  complete,  the  Secretary  of  War  directed 
Col.  Baker  to  summon  a  number  of  witnesses 
residing  in  Washington  who  had  previously 
known  Booth.  Six  witnesses,  who  had  for 
years  known  him  intimately,  were  examined, 
and  identified  the  remains.  Surgeon-General 
Barnes  cut  from  the  neck  about  two  inches  of 
the  spinal  column  through  which  the  bullet 
had  passed.  This  is  in  the  Government 
Medical  Museim  in  Washington,  and  is  the 
only  reiic  of  the  assassiu's  body  in  existence. 
No  further  mutilation  of  the  remains  took 
place  in  the  slightest  degree.  Following  '.he 
further  instructions  of  the  Secretary  of  War 
as  to  the  disposition  of  the  body,  it  was  taken 
directly  from  the  gunboat  to  the  old  peniten- 
tiary building  adjoining  the  arsenal  grounds, 
and  there  in  a  cell  a  large  flat  stone  was 
raised  from  the  floor,  a  rude  grave  dug,  the 
body  dropped  in,  and  so  ended  the  funeral 
obsequies  of  John  Wilkes  Booth,  the  assassin. 

Atzeroth,  Payne,  Harold  and  Mrs.  Surratt 
were  tried,  convicted  and  hanged.  The  exe- 
cution took  place  on  the  9th  of  July,  1865. 


Others,  no  doubt  equally  guilty  in  intent, 
escaped  ;  and  the  movements  of  some  of 
these  will  be  set  forth  in  this  narrative.  Into 
the  details  of  the  trial  and  execution,  I  need 
not  enter.  Complete  accounts  may  be  had 
from  other  sources,  no  doubt  well  known  to 
the  reader.  From  this  point  the  narrative 
will  press  steadily  on  toward  the  "  Mystery  of 
Maple  Island." 

Much  of  what  is  yet  to  be  said  is  but  a 
compilation  of  existing  records,  published 
and  unpublished,  some  of  which  have  been 
kindly  loaned  to  the  author  of  this  chapter. 
The  reader  will  remember  that  John  A.  Payne 
was  .>ent  to  North  Carolina  to  look  after 
General  Sherman,  and  the  first  clue  to  his 
whereabouts  at  the  time  of  the  assassination, 
is  found  in  the  following  correspondence, 
which  we  give  entire. 

"  MOORHEAD    CiTV,  NORTH  CAROLINA,  | 

May  5,  i865.  ) 

"  Hon.  William  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State  : 

Sir: — Enclosed  you  will  find  a  letter  which  I 
found  floating  in  the  river  by  the  new  Government 
whaif,  at  this  place,  on  the  evening  of  the  2d  inst. 
It  was  not  r.til  late  last  night  that  I  succeeded  in 
learning  its  purport,  it  being  in  cipher.  Having 
learned  its  nature,  I  lose  no  time  in  transmitting  it 
to  you.  I  also  send  a  copy  of  the  letter  as  translated. 
The  letter  evidently  had  not  been  opened  when 
thrown  in  the  river.  I  think  the  fiend  was  here 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  General  Sherman,  but  learn- 
ing that  he  had  gone  by  way  of  Wilmington,  and 
being  pressed  by  detectives,  threw  it  overboard- 

Chas,  Denet. 

"P.  S. —  If  the  letter  should  lead  to  anything  of  im- 
portance, so  that  it  would  be  necessary  that  I  should 
be  seen,  I  can  be  found  at  126  South  H  St.,  between 
6th  and  4i  sts.  I  am  at  present  engaged  in  the  Con- 
struction Corps,  Railroad  Department,  at  this  place. 
Will  be  in  Washington  in  a  few  days." 

The  following  is  a  translation  of  the  cipher 
letter.  It  was  one  of  those  ciphers  which  arc 
readily  translatable  when  the  key  is  known, 
and  even  that  is  not  so  very  difficult  to  dis- 
cover. The  goverr.ment  experts  were  familiar 
with  it,  having  ottcn  seen  the  same  cipher  in 
captured  rebel  correspondence.  Hence  it 
was  easy  to  see  that  Mr.  Denet's  ingenuity 
had  given  him  the  key  to  the  true  meaning  o( 
the  epistle. 


^jgm 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


I'9 


m  intent, 
f  some  of 
tive.  Into 
on,  I  need 
ay  be  had 

known  to 
!  narrative 
Mystery  of 

d  is  but  a 
published 
have  been 
lis  chapter, 
n  A.  Payne 
look  after 
:lue  to  his 
sassination, 
spondence, 

.ROLINA,  / 

f 
of  State  : 
ter  which   1 
Government 
the  2d  inst. 
ucceeded  in 
or.     Having; 
ansmitting  it 
,s  translated, 
pened    when 
id    was  here 
n,  but  learn- 
lington,  and 
erboard. 
s.  Denet. 

frthingof  iin- 
hat  I  shouUl 
St.,  between 
d  in  the  Con- 
tt  this  place. 

the  cipher 
1  which  are 

is  known, 
ult  to  dis- 
:re  familiar 
:  cipher  in 

Hence    it 

ingenuity 

neaning  of 


[Translation.] 

"Washington,  April  15,  1865. 

"  Dear  John —  I  am  happy  to  inform  you  that  Pet. 
has  done  his  work  well.  He  is  safe  and  old  Abe  is 
in  hell.  Now,  sir,  all  eyes  are  on  you — you  must 
brin;;  Sherman.  Grant  is  in  the  hands  of  Old  Gray 
ere  this.  Red  Shoes  showed  lack  of  nerve  in  Sew- 
ard's case,  but  fell  back  in  good  order.  Johnson 
must  come.  Old  Crook  has  him  in  charge.  Mind 
well  the  Brother's  Oath,  and  you  will  have  no  diffi- 
culty. All  will  be  safe,  and  we  will  enjoy  the  fruit 
of  our  labors.  We  had  a  large  meeting  last  night  — 
all  were  bent  on  carrying  out  the  programme  to  the 
letter.  The  rails  are  laid  for  safe  exit.  Old — always 
behind  —  lost  the  pass  at  City  Point.  Now,  I  say 
again; — The  lives  of  our  brave  officers  and  the  life 
of  the  South  depends  upon  the  carrying  this  pro- 
gramme into  effect.  No.  2  will  give  you  this.  It 
is  ordered  that  no  more  letters  be  sent  by  mail. 
When  you  write  again,  sign  no  real  name,  and  send 
by  some  of  our  friends  who  are  coming  home.  We 
want  you  to  write  us  how  the  news  was  received 
there.  We  receive  great  encouragement  from  all 
quarters.  I  hope  there  will  be  no  getting  weak  in 
the  knees.  I  was  in  B-iltimore  yesterday.  Pet.  has 
not  got  there  yet.     Don't  lose  your  nerve. 

"No.  Five." 
O.  B. 

That  this  delicious  bit  of  treasonable  corre- 
spondence was  sent  to  John  A  Payne  there  is 
little  or  no  doubt.  From  it  we  also  learn  thai 
"  Pet."  was  John  Wilkes  Booth ;  "  Red  Shoer,." 
Wood,  alias  Lewis  Payne,  and  "  Old  Ciook," 
.\tzeroth.  The  letter  was  evidently  written 
early  on  the  morning  after  the  assassination, 
and  placed  in  the  hands  of  No.  2,  to  convey 
to  Payne.  It  further  shows  that  there  was  a 
meeting  of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Blue  Gaunt- 
let on  the  very  night  of  the  assassination  ;  or, 
if  not  of  theiTi  as  a  camp,  of  some  of  them  as 
a  band  of  conspirators. 

General  Sherman's  change  of  route  threw 
Payne  out  in  his  calculations.  The  ordinary 
route  from  Raleigh,  where  Gen.  Sherman's 
headquarters  were  at  the  time,  to  Washington, 
was  by  rail  via  Goldsborough  and  New  Bern 
to  Moorhead  City,  thence  by  steamer  to  Wash- 
ington. Tiiere  is  no  doubt,  as  Mr.  Denet 
suggests,  that  Payne  was  on  the  watch  at 
Moorhead  City,  but  learning  that  Sheiman 
had  gone  to  Washington  via  Wilmington,  and 
hearing,  as  he  could  not  fail  to  hear,  the  result 


of  the  assassination,  he  lost  heart,  rid  himself 
of  every  thing  of  a  suspicious  nature,  and  fled. 

We  will  probably  strike  his  trail  again  before 
our  narrative  closes.  The  following  letter, 
dated  at  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  is  of  no  little  interest, 
because  it  verifies  in  a  degree  what  has  already 
been  stated. 

"Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  April  18,  1865. 

"  Hon.  E.  M.  SrANTON,  Secretary  of  War,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C. : — My  Dear  Sir: — Business  has 
called  me  to  Toronto,  C.  W.,  several  times  within 
the  past  two  months  ;  and  while  there,  I  have  seen 
and  heard  some  things  which  may  be  of  service  to 
the  government. 

"About  five  weeks  ago,  I  saw  at  the  Queen's  Hotel, 
Toronto,  a  letter  written  by  the  late  John  Y.  Beale, 
just  previous  to  his  execution,  which,  after  speaking 
of  his  mock  trial,  unjust  sentence,  the  judicial  mur- 
der that  was  to  be  perpetrated  by  his  execution,  etc., 
called  upon  Jacob  Thompson  to  vindicate  his  char- 
acter before  his  countrymen  of  the  South,  and  ex- 
p  .ssed  his  belief  that  his  death  would  be  speedily 
and  terribly  avenged.  The  letter  itself  was  ad- 
dressed to  Colonel  J.  Thompson,  Confederate  Com- 
missioner at  Toronto,  but  the  superscription  on  the 
envelope,  which  was  in  a  different  handwriting  read 
simply,  J.  Thompson,  Toronto,  Canada.  This  cir- 
cums;ance  caused  it  to  be  delivered  to  a  Mr.  Thomp- 
son for  whom  it  was  not  intended.  I  was  permitted 
to  peruse,  but  not  to  copy,  the  letter.  I  was  in- 
formed, at  that  time,  that  the  friends  of  Beale  were 
banded  together  for  the  double  purpose  of  avenging 
his  death,  and  aiding  the  rebel  government.  I 
have  heard  the  same  statement  repeated  many  times 
since,  and  have  been  frequently  told  by  citizens  of 
Toronto  that  some  great  mischief  was  being  plotted 
by  refugees  in  Canada.  For  more  than  a  month 
General  Dix's  name  was  mentioned  in  my  hearing 
in  connection  with  the  threatened  venge.-'.nce.  Re- 
garding all  such  stories  as  idle  tales,  I  never  repeated 
them.  Last  Frid.iy  evening,  while  sitting  in  the 
office  of  the  Queen's  Hotel,  I  overheard  a  conversa- 
tion between  some  persons  sitting  near  me,  which 
convinced  me  that  the  plot  to  murder  the  President 
was  known  to  them.  The  party  was  mourning  over 
the  Lite  rebel  reverses,  commenting  upon  the  execu- 
tion of  Beale,  the  extradition  of  Bueley,  etc.,  and 
then  they  cheered  themselves  after  this  fashion  : 
"  We'll  make  the  damned  Yankees  howl  yet." 
"  Boys,  I'll  bet  that  we'll  get  better  news  in  forty- 
eight  hours."  "We'll  have  something  from  Wash- 
ington that  will  make  people  stare."  Their  words 
at  the  time  seemed  to  me  to  be  simply  vulgar  and 
profane,  and  implying  idle  threats  which  could 
never  be  executed.  The  next  morning  (Saturday, 
April  15),  when  I  heard  of  the  assassination,  I  could 


120 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


not  help  feeling  that  the  party  were  implicated  in 
the  act.  On  Saturday,  I  met  two  of  them  in  com- 
pany with  Ben  Young,  and  one  or  two  otiiers  of  the 
St.  .\lbans  raiders,  in  the  bar-room  at  the  Queen's. 
One  said,  "Good  news  for  us  this  morning,"  and 
another,  "  Dar  in  well  done,  but  not  enough  of  it." 
Raising  their  ^rlasses,  one  said,  "  Here's  to  Andy 
Johnson's  turn  next,  to  which  another  responded, 
"  Yes,  damn  his  soul."  On  relating  this  circum- 
stance to  Hon.  E.  G.  Spaulding  and  others,  they 
were  of  the  opinion  that  I  should  communicate  them 
to  your  Department.  For  my  own  part,  I  beg  to 
refer  to  Hon.  Ira  Harris,  of  the  Senate,  and  Hon. 
John  .\.  Griswold,  of  the  House." 
"  I  am,  my  dear  sir,  very  truly  yours, 

G.  C." 

Mr.  C.  is  a  respectable  lawyer  in  this  city,  and  his 
statements  are  entitled  to  credit. 

E.  G.  S. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

The  \QV>ix  speaks  for  itself,  and  needs  no 
comment.  The  only  criticism  to  offer  is  not 
upon  the  letter,  but  upon  the  writer.  Had 
he  been  possessed  of  the  shrewdnesss  which 
the  average  lawyer  ought  to  possess,  he  would 
have  written  to  the  War  Department  long 
before.  Written  at  the  time  it  was,  it  only 
showed  how  great  was  the  lack  of  detective 
ability  which  every  great  lawyer  possesses  in 
some  degree.  In  the  writer,  it  only  verified 
the  old  adage  about  "  locking  the  stable  after 
the  horse  is  stolen." 

The  next  letter  in  evidence  throws  a  ray  of 
light  on  the  trail  of  John  Harrison  Surratt, 
and  also,  from  the  description,  of  John  A. 
Payne.  It  is  from  one  of  the  many  detectives 
which  were  sent  into  Canada  on  a  hunt  for 
the  escaped  conspirators.  It  is  dated  at 
Montreal  on  the  27th  of  April.  Its  great 
length  precludes  its  insertion  in  full,  but  we 
give  the  salient  portions;  those  relating  directly 
to  the  subject  in  hand.  Just  here,  it  may  be 
well  to  note  that  a  prominent  Englishman  in 
Montreal,  who,  previous  to  the  assassination  of 
the  President,  was  a  strong  sympathizer  with 
the  South,  and  was  well  acquainted  with  the 
Confederate  agents  in  Canada,  and  fully  in- 
formed of  their  plans  and  movements,  said 
that  the  murder  of  the  President  was  too  inuch 
for  him  ;  and  he  told  Alderman  Lyman,  of 
that  city,  that  the  Southern  agents  had  heard 
from  the  party  who  murdered  the  President, 


and  that  they  expected  him  in  Montreal  within 
forty-eight  hours;  and  if  not  the  principal, 
one  closely  connected  with  the  assassination. 
This  information  the  agents  received  on  tlie 
20th  of  Apnl.  The  reader  will  bear  the  date 
in  mind,  as  he  reads  the  extracts  from  the 
detective's  letter: 

"Montreal,  April  27,  1865. 
"Colonel  L.  C.  Baker; 

"  Dear  Sir —  While  in  Burlington  (Vt.),  I  obtaincil 
a  white  linen  handkerchief,  which  was  dropped  in 
the  Vermont  Central  Depot,  on  Thursday  evening 
April  20,  by  one  of  three  strange  men  who  slept  in 
the  depot  .ill  Thursday  night.  These  men  came  from 
the  steamer  Canada,  Capt.  Flagg.  She  was  very  late 
that  evening,  and  did  not  connect  with  the  train 
north,  to  Montreal,  which  leaves  at  7  o'clock,  r.  m. 
The)'  came  into  the  depot  between  seven  and  a  half 
and  eight  o'clock,  after  tlie  night  watchman  went  un 
duty.  They  had  no  baggage.  They  were  all  rather 
poorly  dressed,  and  looked  hard,  worn  out,  and  tired. 
The  watchman  asked  them  which  way  they  were 
going;  they  said  "to  Montreal."  When  told  that 
they  could  not  go  that  night,  they  said  that  they  knew 
it.  He  asked  them  if  they  wanted  a  hotel;  they  said 
no,  that  they  were  going  to  stay  in  the  depot.  They 
did  not  seem  to  ha/e  much  to  s.ty  or  do  with  each 
other.  They  curled  up  on  seats  in  different  parts  of 
the  room,  and  went  to  sleep,  and  remained  quiet  all 
night.  The  watchman  awakened  them  about  4 
o'clock  in  the  morning  to  take  the  train,  which  they 
did.  After  they  left  he  picked  up  two  dirty  pocket 
handkerchiefs  where  they  had  slept.  While  looking 
them  over,  he  found  the  name  of  J.  H.  Surratt  No.  2, 
on  one  of  them.  B.,  the  watchman,  got  his  mother 
to  wash  the  handkerchiefs,  and  on  Saturd.iy  he  went 
to  the  city,  and  told  the  circumstance  of  finding  them. 
Detective  G.  C.  got  the  handkerchief  from  B.,  and  F 
got  it  from  him.  Enclosed  you  will  find  it.  H. 
said  that  one  of  the  men  was  tall  and  the  others 
short.  He  identifies  the  likeness  of  Surratt,  as  being 
one  of  the  men.  I  then  found  the  conductor  who 
ran  the  train  to  Essex  Junction  that  morning,  and  he 
too,  fully  identified  Surratt's  likeness  as  being  one 
of  the  men.  I  next  found  C.  T.  Hobart,  who  runs 
the  through  train  to  St.  Albans,  Vermont.  He  gave 
a  description  of  two  men  only  who  boarded  his  train 
at  Essex  Junction  on  Friday  morning,  April  21,  at 
5.05  o'clock.  One  was  a  tall  man,  broad  shoulders, 
otherwise  slim,  straight  as  an- arrow,  did  not  look 
like  a  laborer,  though  dressed  rather  poor;  had  on  a 
loose  s.ick  coat,  cassimere  shirt,  light  colored  pants, 
and  a  tight  fitting  skull  cap.  His  hair  was  black  as 
jet  and  straight;  no  beard;  was  young,  not  more  than 
twenty-one  or  twenty  two.  The  other  man  was  not 
much  over  five  feet,  thick  set,  short  neck,  full  face, 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  AfAPLE  ISLAND. 


131 


:rcal  within 
principal, 
;assination. 
.'ed  on  tlie 
ar  the  date 
s  from  the 

1  27,  1865. 

),  I  obtained 
dropped  in 
day  evening 
vho  slept  in 
n  came  from 
ivas  very  late 
th  the  train 
'clock,  1'.  M. 
in  and  a  half 
aan  went  on 
:re  all  ratlicr 
ut,  and  tired. 
y  they  were 
;n  told  that 
at  they  knew 
el;  they  said 
epot.    They 

0  with  each 
rent  parts  of 
led  quiet  all 
m  about  4 
,  which  they 
dirty  pocket 
hile  looking 
iirratt  No.  2, 
:  his  mother 
day  he  went 
nding  them, 
iin  n.,  and  I 
find  it.      B. 

1  the  others 
att,  as  being 
iductor  who 
ling,  and  lie 
i  being  one 
t,  who  runs 
t.  He  gave 
cd  his  train 
April  ?i,  at 
!  shoulders, 
d  not  look 
•r;  had  on  a 
lored  pants, 
ras  black  as 
t  more  than 
lan  was  not 
k,  full  face, 


sandy  complexion,  sandy  chin  whiskers  and  no 
other  beard.  He  wore  a  soft  black-felt  hat,  dark- 
colored  sack  coat,  light-colored  pants,  and  a  reddish- 
colored  tlannel  shirt.  He  had  but  little  to  say;  let 
the  tall  iTian  do  the  talking.  They  both  got  oflf  the 
train  at  St.  Albans.  He  felt  as  if  they  were  a  pair  of 
assassins,  and  in  speaking  to  a  friend  about  the 
matter,  he  gave  vent  to  his  suspicions.  He  fully 
identified  Surratt's  picture  as  that  of  the  tall  one,  and 
s.iiJ  that  he  would  know  him  anywhere.  *  *  * 
There  is  no  doubt  that  Surratt  is  in  this  province, 
together  with  some  others,  but  whom  I  cannot  tell. 
Enclosed  I  send  you  a  likeness  of  one  of  the  Paynes, 
of  whom  there  are  seven  brothers,  all  Kentuckians, 
Three  of  them  are  said  to  be  in  South  America,  one 
is  in  jail  at  St.  Albans,  an  ',  the  others  are  here  un- 
less you  have  them  with  you.  The  picture  is  marked 
on  the  back.  If  of  no  use,  please  send  it  back  to  the 
owner.  I  am  going  out  along  that  portion  of  Canada 
bordering  on  Maine,  Vermont  and  New  York.  Many 
rebels  are  in  there.  Young  Saunders  and  others  are 
there  now.  Porterfield,  a  dangerous  rebel,  is  mak- 
ing preparations  to  go  to  Nashville;  ought  not  to  be 
:illowed.  Trowbridge,  another,  has  gone  to  De- 
troit. "  Respectfully,  etc., 

n  " 

It  was  that  very  picture  of  "one  of  the 
Paynes,"  which  fully  revealed  the  identity  of 
the  man  Wood,  who  attempted  the  assassina- 
tion of  Secretary  Seward.  It  was,  in  fact,  his 
own  portrait  taken  in  Montreal,  some  time  pre- 
viouG  to  starting  for  Washington  to  report  to 
John  Wilkes  Booth.  The  next  communica- 
tion is  addressed  to  Secretary  Stanton.  It 
was  dated  at  Montreal  on  the  29th  of  April, 
1865.     We  append  an  extract  or  two  : 

"  Hon.  E.  M.  Stanto.v,  Secretary  of  War: 

"Dear  Sir. —  There  is  no  doubt  that  J.  H.  Sur- 
ratt and  John  A.  Payne  were  in  the  city  yester- 
day, and  that  they  left  last  night  in  company  with 
Clement  C.  Clay  and  others  probably  for  Toronto. 
I  am  a  private  detective  here,  without  authority  to 
act  for  your  government.  I  looked  the  city  over  for 
(i.,  one  of  Baker's  men,  but  found  that  .he  left  for 
the  border  townships  yesterday  morning,  so  I  failed 
to  see  him.  *  *  *  \  ^^  not  at  all  certain 
that  they  went  to  Toronto;  it  is  only  my  opinion. 
They  may  have  gone  to  Three  Rivers,  as  there  are  a 
great  many  Southern  refugees  there,  or  to  Tanner, 
where  it  is  said  that  John  A.  Payne  has  heretofore 
spent  a  great  deal  of  his  time,  together  with  three  of 
his  brothers.  "  Respectfully,  etc., 

About  this  time  a  letter  was  received  at 
Washington,  post-marked  Detroit,  but  written 


at  Tanner,  Canada,  by  one  John  P.  H.  Hall, 
of  that  place,  and  directed  :  "  To  Andrew 
Johnson,  President  of  the  United  States,  or 
other  authority. "     Its  contents  are  as  follows  : 

"  With  certainty  I  state  to  you  that  John  A.  P.ayne, 
and  thirteen  others,  are  sworn  to  murder  Andrew 
Johnson,  E.  M.  Stanton,  L.  S.  Fisher,  and  others, 
within  thirty  days  from  April  23d,  1865.  The  ar- 
rangements are  all  made  and  in  progress  toward 
execution.  I  do  not  know  where  John  A.  P.ayne  is 
now.  He  was  at  Montreal  when  this  plot  was  pro- 
jected. His  brother  (whose  name  I  do  not  recollect) 
is  implicated.  Seven  of  the  plotters  arc  at  Washing- 
ton, four  at  Bedford,  Pennsylvania,  and  the  thir- 
teenth is  with  Payne.  These  are  plain  facts.  Do 
not  reveal  this,  but  arrest  John  A.  Payne  and  his 
brother.  I  send  this  to  Detroit  to  avoid  suspicion. 
•  Yours,  etc., 


The  Montreal  private  detective  v/as  right  in 
his  opinion,  at  least  so  far  as  Clement  C  Clay 
was  concerned;  because,  among  many  other 
names  registered  at  the  Queen's  Hotel, 
Toronto,  on  the  evening  of  April  29,  1865, 
was  that  of  C.  C  Clay.  Whether  Surratt  and 
Payne  were  in  his  company  remains  to  be 
seen.  Jacob  Thompson  and  Larry  McDonald 
were  already  there. 

So  far,  the  testimony  as  to  the  whereabouts 
of  John  H.  Surratt  is  fairly  complete.  In  the 
absence  of  direct  and  absolute  proof,  it  may, 
at  all  events,  be  accepted  as  strong  circum- 
stantial evidence.  We  now  present  yet  another 
letter,  written  by  a  colored  man,  which,  though 
anonymous,  and  as  such  not  entitle^  to  take 
rank  as  evidence,  yet  it  harmonizes  so  well 
with  what  has  been  already  learned  that  it 
seems  worthy  of  some  credence.  At  all 
events,  it  is  here  given  place,  and  left  to  the 
judgment  of  the  reader. 

The  letter  is  postmarked  "  Niagara  Falls," 
and  is  dated  "Monday,  May  2nd,  1865," 
and  directed  "  To  the  Secretary  of  War, 
Washington,  D.  C"     The  writer  says  : 

"I  beg  of  you  not  to  let  any  one  see  this  letter.  I 
dare  not  sign  it  for  fear  that  my  name  may  somehow 
come  out.  I  send  you  my  name  and  business  on  a 
separate  paper  so  that  you  may  judge  whether  I 
have  an  opportunity  to  learn  what  I  tell  you.  Be 
sure  to  destroy  it.  I  send  this  to  be  mailed  at 
Niagara  Falls,  because  a  letter  directed  to  you  and 


133 


A    SOU  V EX  I R  OF   THE  ST.    LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


dropped  into  this  post-office,  would  hv.  read  by  Jake 
Thompson  before  it  was  sent  out,  if  it  was  ever  sent 
at  ;ili.  What  I  want  you  to  linow  is  tliat  there  is  an 
awful  nest  of  rebels  here  at  this  time.  Clay,  Surratt 
and  John  A.  Fayne  are  here,  fhey  came  Saturday 
with  a  lot  of  others.  Surratt  and  J'aynu  siiipped  out 
last  night  and  now  there  is  the  very  devil  to  pay. 
It  seems  that  Surratt  was  the  treasurer  of  some 
society  that  was  hired  to  murder  President  Lincoln 
and  a  lot  of  others,  and  that  Jake  Thompson  took 
the  gold  out  of  the  bank  here  and  paid  it  over  to  him 
and  Payne,  and  that  they  were  to  divide  it  among 
the  others  ;  but  they  skipped  out  and  now  they  can't 
find  hide  nor  hair  of  them.  I  wouldn't  like  to  be  in 
their  shoes  if  the  gang  gets  them,  and  tliey  arf-  going 
in  pursuit.  They  are  plotting  now  to  murder  a  lot 
more  in  revenge  for  the  killing  of  Hooth,  and  if 
Payne  and  the  rest  are  hung  they  s.iy  that  they  will 
burn  Washington.  You  can't  tell  how  much  I  hear, 
and  of  course  I  don't  hear  it  all,  as  I  am  only  in  the 
room  when  I  take  liquor  to  them,  which  is  pretty 
often  though,  but  one  of  the  girls  hears  heaps  and 
tells  me  all  about  it.  Anyway,  you  folks  in  Wash- 
ington ought  to  look  out.  I  hope  you  will  catch 
and  hang  every  one  of  them,  especially  Jake  Thomp- 
son.    I  hate  him.     That  is  all  I  can  write  now. 


But  little  more  remains  to  be  said,  and  that 
is  scarcely  more  than  conjecture.  This  much 
is  positively  known.  A  sharp  lookout  for  J. 
H.  Surratt  and  John  A.  Payne,  was  kept  at 
St.  Catharines,  Canada,  for  some  time.  That 
city  was  a  great  place  of  resort  for  Southern 
rebels,  among  whose  citizens  they  found  a 
welcome,  especially  among  a  certain  class. 
Then,  too,  Col.  Beverly  Robinson,  of  Vir- 
ginia, was  the  proprietor  of  a  fashionable 
hotel  there,  which  became  a  noted  resort  for 
Southerners  and  Southern  sympathizers,  and 
where  rebellion  against  the  Government  of 
the  United  States  was  as  openly  discussed  as 
it  ever  was  in  Charleston,  South  Carolina, 
where  it  originated.  But  the  rebellion  went 
down  with  a  crash  and  so  did  Beverly  Robin- 
son's hotel  business,  to  the  sorrow  of  several 
capitalists  of  St.  Catharines,  whose  only  se- 
curity for  heavy  loans  was  a  life  insurance 
policy,  and  the  "  honah,  sah,"  of  Col.  Beverly 
Robinson,  one  of  Virginia's  F.  F.  V.'s,  on 
neither  of  which  as  late  as  iS8r,  had  they 
ever  realized  a  cent.  Whether  the  indebted- 
ness has  since  been  canceled,  this  deponent 
saith  not. 


But  John  H.  Surratt  and  Joiui  A.  Payne 
were  too  shrewd  to  visit  St.  Catharines.  Tlic 
former  made  his  way  to  Three  Rivers,  Que- 
bec, wiiere  he  was  protected  for  a  time  by 
Father  Boucher,  a  Catholic  priest.  He  went 
thence  to  Italy,  enlisted  in  the  Papal  Zouaves, 
was  exposed  by  another  Papal  soldier  by  tlu- 
name  of  Massie,  extradited,  tried  and  ac- 
tpiittcd  in  Wasiiington  in  1868,  and  now  lives 
in  Baltimore.  A  man  bearing  the  description 
of  John  A.  Payne,  was  seen  in  the  vicinity  ol 
Sharbot  and  Rideau  lakes,  Ont.,  and  at 
Smith's  Falls  during  the  latter  part  of  May, 
1865,  and  shortly  afterward  at  Gananociue, 
where  he  stayed  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then 
settling  his  hotel  bill,  in  payment  of  whicli 
he  offered  a  gold  piece  of  English  coinage, 
he  left,  no  one  knew  whither.  Was  it  John 
A.  Payne  who  made  his  appearance  at 
Fisher's  Landing  .'*  The  description  and 
the  time  tally  well.  It  may  with  some  show 
of  'eason  be  asked:  If  he  wanted  to  iiide 
himself  effectually  among  the  islands,  why  did 
he  not  choose  some  spot  among  the  myriad 
islands  of  the  Admiralty  group  near  Ganano- 
que,  or  in  the  Navy  group  below.'  Evidently 
he  was  a  shrewd  observer.  He  well  knew  that 
the  defrauded  Brotherhood  would  hunt  him 
to  the  death,  but  he  also  knew  that  they  would 
be  unlikely  to  venture  to  the  American  side 
of  the  St.  Lawrence;  while  they  would  searc  li 
every  island  in  the  Canadian  Channel.  He 
knew,  too,  that  Baker's  government  detectives, 
would  never  think  of  looking  for  him  on  the 
United  States  side  of  the  line.  Besides,  had 
he  located  in  either  of  the  island  groups  men- 
tioned, the  Admiralty,  for  instance,  his  sup- 
plies would  necessarily  be  drawn  from  Gan- 
anoque,  a  dangerous  point  for  him  to  visit.  If 
in  the  Navy  group,  it  was  not  easy  to  procure 
needed  supplies,  without  travelling  some  dist- 
ance. Then,  too,  the  main  channels  of  steam- 
boat travel  at  that  time,  especially  for  the  Can- 
adian steamers,  passed  through  those  groups. 

Locating  where  he  did  —  if  indeed  it  was 
him,  showed  great  shrewdness.  Maple  Island 
is  at  some  distance  from  any  of  the  regular 
lines  of  steamboat  travel,  and  from  any  of  tlic 
channels  taken  by  excursion  steamers,  which, 


THE  MYSTERY  OF  MAPLE  ISLAND. 


123 


A.  Payne 
nes.  The 
vers,  Qiie- 
a  lime  by 

He  went 
I  Zouaves, 
lier  hy  tlic 
d  and  ac- 
[  now  lives 
lescription 
vicinity  of 
.,  and  at 
rt  of  May, 
tananoquc, 
,  and  then 

of  whicli 
\\  coinage, 
as  it  John 
larance  at 
ption  and 
;ome  show 
ed  to  hide 
is,  why  did 
he  myriad 
xr  Ganano- 

Evidently 
1  knew  that 
hunt  him 
they  would 
erican  side 
)uld  search 
innel.  He 
detectives, 
lim  on  the 
esides,  had 
roups  inen- 
e,  his  sup- 
from  Gan- 
to  visit.     It" 

to  procure 

some  dist- 
s  of  steam- 
brthe  Can- 
Dse  groups, 
leed  it  was 
aple  Island 

the  regular 
I  any  of  the 
ers,  which, 


at  that  time,  were  few  and  far  between  ;  and 
while  the  island  is  by  no  means  hidden,  that 
fact  of  itself  was  an  element  of  safety;  because 
no  one  would  think  of  searching  an  island  so 
open  to  the  view  of  every  one.  That  a  party 
of  five  or  six  men  made  their  appearance  in 
Gananoque  in  the  month  of  August,  1865, 
making  inquiries  about  a  man  who  answered 
the  description  of  John  A.  Payne,  already 
given,  is  a  fact  that  may  be  easily  substantiated. 
They  affirmed  that  they  all  belonged  to  a 
party  of  workmen  who  had  been  employed 


that  the  fateful  sign  of  the  thiee  crosses  was 
cut  upon  the  breast  of  the  murdered  hermit. 
That  of  itself  is  almost  positive  evidence  that 
he  met  his  doom  at  the  hands  of  the  Brother- 
hood, and  that  not  robbery  only,  but  revenge, 
was  a  prime  factor  in  the  assassination. 

Scores  of  instances  can  be  produced  where 
the  bodies  of  those  who  fell  victims  to  the 
relentless  oaths  of  the  secret  Brotherhoods  of 
the  South  during  the  rebellion  were  marked 
in  like  manner.  Even  the  "  Ku  Klux  Klans  " 
of  1866,  'C7  and  '68,  during  the  reconstruction 


'LITTLE   FRAUD,       BELOW    1  AIRY    LAND. 


near  Montreal,  and  that  the  man  for  whom 
they  were  looking  drew  the  pay  for  them,  and 
then  ran  away.  They  had  followed  him  to 
Smith's  Falls,  and  from  there  could  get  no 
further  trace  of  him. 

There  is  some  significance,  too,  in  the  fact 
that  after  the  burning  of  the  cabin  on  Maple 
Island,  nothing  more  was  seen  of  the  party  of 
supposed  Southerners,  who  had  for  some  days 
previous  sojourned  at  the  Hubbard  and  Walton 
Houses  in  Clayton. 

But  of  yet  greater  significance  is  the  fact 


period,  left  in  many  instances  the  same  bloody 
sign  upon  the  breasts  of  their  murdered 
victims. 

Reader,  the  testimony  is  all  in  ;  whatever 
may  be  its  value  as  evidence,  it  is  wholly  a 
matter  of  record,  accessible  to  those  who  care 
to  investigate.  1  he  writer  has  sought  far  and 
wide  for  additional  proofs,  but  they  could  not 
be  found  by  him  ;  and  now  the  judgment 
remains  with  you  ;  for  with  this  paragraph,  he 
submits  for  your  decision  The  Mystery  of 
Maple  Island. 


124 


A  SOUl-EX/K  OF   THE  ST.  LAIWKESCE  KIVEK. 


<r»- 


^*l*<J  -4    ^»t= 


ii^ 


1 


b 


^^ 


.\^■■f^  -• 


.^:'l-de&^'^'-~ 


.-^?sir 


THE    *'  NEW   ISLAND   WANDERKR. 


Belongs  to  the  Alexandria  Bay  Steamboat  Compaay,  making  daily  excursions  up  and  down  the  River  and  among  the  Isalaods.    Steamer  " 

of  same  line,  makes  daily  trips  to  Ogdensburg. 


H.  WALTER  WEBB. 


Some  writer  for  a  New  York  newspaper, 
under  date  of  August  i8,  1894,  lets  himself 
loose  in  the  following  style: 

"While  Dr.  Chauncey  M.  Dtpew  is  divid- 
ing his  time  in  Europe  between  talking  horse 
and  diplomacy  with  Lord  Roseberry,  Rhine 
wine  and  yachts  with  the  German  Kaiser  and 
anarchy  and  politics  with  President  Casimir- 
Perier,  of  France,  his  job,  as  the  president  of 
the  New  York  Central  Railroad  and  authority 
on  almost  everything  pertaining  to  railroads, 


is  being  held  down  by  a  young  man  who  is 
not  so  well  known  as  he,  but  who  is  thought 
by  men  who  know,  to  be  an  altogether  better 
president  of  railroads  than  the  talented  Dr. 
Depew,  Dr.  Depew's  *  sub '  is  about  twenty- 
five  years  younger  than  himself,  and  he  can 
probably  outrun  and  outbox  his  superior  and 
do  a  lot  of  things  that  the  doctor's  stiffened 
joints  would  not  possibly  permit  him  to  under- 
take. He  is  very  much  quieter  than  the  doc- 
tor, and    while   he   may  not   have   as    many 


H.    WALTER   WEBli. 


125 


-aJ%^ 


s.    Steamer  "  I- 


man  who  is 
is  thought 
ether  better 
ilented  Dr. 
lOut  twenty- 
and  he  can 
uperior  and 
r's  stiffened 
im  to  under- 
lan  the  doc- 
e   as    manv 


friends,  those  who  talk  with  him  every  day 
^ay  that  he  i  ;in  give  his  cliief  points  in  the 
line  of  '  hustling.'  Altliough  he  was  not  al- 
together unknown  four  years  ago,  it  was  not 
until  then  that  his  genius  as  a  railroad  mana- 
ger brouglu  iiim  prommently  before  the 
public.  Mr.  Depew  was  then,  as  now,  in 
Europe  hobnobbing  with  the  big  guns  over 
there,  while  Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  who  owns 
most  of  the  New  York  Central  Road  and  who 
hires  Mr.  Depew  at  a  fancy  salary,  was  some- 
where in  Africa." 

This  screed  reads  well,  and  desiring  to  know 
more  of  this  man  who  has  proven  himself  able 
to  "  hold  down  "  the  great  Chauncey's  seat, 
we  have  taken  some  pains  to  make  inquiries 
about  him.  We  are  told  that  in  the  spring  of 
1890  the  directors  of  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad  determined  to  make  some  changes  in 
the  organization  — changes  which  involved 
promotion  of  some  of  the  abler  officers  of  the 
road.  Among  other  things  which  they  voted 
to  do  was  the  creation  of  a  new  department, 
the  head  of  which  was  to  be  elected  third  vice- 
president  of  the  system,  and  to  have  supreme 
direction  of  the  traffic  of  the  road,  both  pass- 
enger and  freight.  He  was  to  be  held,  in 
short,  responsible  for  the  management  of  such 
business  as  was  offered  to  the  company.  The 
choice  for  this  responsible  office  fell  upon 
H.  Walter  Webb,  and  only  a  few  weeks  later 
this  young  man  found  himself  face  to  face 
with  a  strike  which  was  more  threatening  than 
any  that  had  occurred  upon  the  road,  perhaps 
in  its  existence,  certainly  since  the  great  strike 
year  of  1877. 

Two  years  later  Vice-President  Webb  was 
called  to  face  another  emergency  of  the  same 
sort,  and  these  two  experiences  fixed  attention 
upon  him  as  one  of  the  great  railway  managers 
of  the  United  States.  Men  who  do  not  know 
Major  Webb  are  asking  one  another  something 
about  his  personality  and  his  intellectual 
qualities,  as  the  generalship  he  displays  not 
only  in  strike  crises,  but  in  those  more  silent 
but  in  some  respects  equally  desperate  battles 
which  railroad  companies  as  competitors  of 
other  railroad  companies  are  constantly  fight- 
ing. 


In  New  York  Major  Webb  is  well  known,  but 
elsewhere,  although  he  hasgainetl  wide  repute, 
there  is  little  knowledge  of  the  manner  of  man 
he  is.  The  story  of  his  career  contains  much 
that  is  instructive  and  interesting. 

Major  Webb  is  one  of  the  sons  of  that  dis- 
tinguished politician  and  editor  of  the  time 
when  the  Whig  party  was  fighting  its  battles, 
Gen.  James  Watson  Webb.  Great  as  were 
Gen.  Webb's  achievements  in  the  political 
world,  when  he  came  to  old  age  he  took  greater 
pride  in  the  promise  which  was  already  begin- 
ning to  be  fulfilled,  of  raising  a  family  of  boys 
who  would  gain  distinction,  perha|)S,  equal  to 
that  which  was  gained  by  the  famous  Field,  or 
Washburn,  or  Wolcott  families. 

Walter  Webb,  in  his  youth,  showed  some 
taste  for  engineering,  and  he  was  placed  in 
the  Columbia  College  School  of  Mines,  which 
is  the  scientific  department  of  that  institution, 
and  was  at  the  head  of  his  class  some  twenty 
years  ago.  After  graduation,  however,  young 
Webb  felt  some  inclination  toward  a  career  at 
the  bar.  He  gratified  it  to  the  extent  of  study- 
ing, being  admitted,  and  hanging  out  his 
shingle  for  a  brief  time.  His  legal  education 
was  of  value  to  him,  though  only  in  other 
achievements  toward  which  he  began  to  drift 
soon  after  he  opened  his  office.  An  opportu- 
nity was  presented  for  him  to  go  into  the  bank- 
ing and  brokerage  business,  and  for  some  years 
he  was  busy  in  studying  the  mysteries  of  Wall 
street,  and  in  learning  the  market  value  of 
the  securities  there  dealt  in. 

Almost  incidentally  he  drifted  into  the  rail- 
way business.  His  brother,  Dr.  Seward 
Webb,  who  married  one  of  the  daughters  of 
William  H.  Vanderbilt,  became  interested  in 
the  Palace  Car  Company  which  the  Vander- 
bilts  controlled,  and  when  Webster  Wagner, 
the  president  of  that  company,  met  his  sud- 
den death,  having  been  crushed  between  two 
of  his  own  cars  in  a  railway  collision,  Dr. 
Webb  became  president  of  the  company,  and 
invited  his  brother  to  accept  an  official  post 
in  connection  with  it.  Walter  Webb  had 
not  been  in  the  railway  business  a  month  be- 
fore both  he  and  his  employers  discovered 
that   he   had   peculiar   qualifications  for  this 


ia6 


A  SOUVLXIR   OF   THE  ST.  LAH'KEiWK  E/VER. 


o,  - 


business.  It  seemed  to  fascinate  him.  He 
was  no  pompous  official,  fond  of  sitting  in 
richly  carpeted  rooms  and  issuing  orders  with 
heavy  dignity.  He  was  everywhere.  He 
studied  the  science  of  railway  car  building; 
he  skirmished  around  among  the  shops;  he 
was  not  afraid  of  dirt,  nor  of  putting  on  a 
jumper  and  a  pair  of  overalls,  if  necessary, 
and  as  a  consecpience  he  soon  bad  not  only 
mastered  those  duties  be  was  employed  to 
perform,  but  being  full  of  suggestions  and 
devoted  to  his  avocation,  he  was  rapidly  pro- 
moted. He  served,  while  an  ofificer,  really 
an  apprenticeship,  working  harder  than  any 
other  employ^,  never  thinking  about  hours 
or  salary,  but  only  bent  on  learning  the 
business. 

In  the  railway  business  such  a  person  moves 
rapidly  toward  the  top.  The  history  of  rail- 
way corporations  in  the  United  States  fur- 
nishes many  such  instances.  Social  influence, 
political  pulls,  as  they  are  called,  family  pres- 
tige, count  for  nothing  in  the  development  of 
railway  men.  Nothing  but  fidelity  and  capa- 
city have  any  influence  with  directors  in  the 
selection  of  executive  officers.  Any  other 
course  would  be  perilous. 

Therefore,  when  the  time  came  for  this  cor- 
poration, one  of  the  greatest  in  the  world  in 
railway  management,  to  place  a  competent 
man  at  the  head  of  its  traffic  business,  Major 
Webb  was  selected,  and  so  thoroughly  has  he 
justified  that  choice  that  at  the  time  when 
President  Chauncey  M.  Depew  was  consider- 
ing the  invitation  of  President  Harrison  to 
become  the  successor  of  Mr.  Blaine,  as  Secre- 
tary of  State,  it  was  understood  in  railway 
circles  that  Major  Webb  would  be  chosen  pre- 
sident of  the  New  York  Central,  in  case  Depew 
resigned  that  office. 

Chief  among  Major  Webb's  qualifications 
for  this  work  is  his  devotion  to  business.  His 
college  training  as  an  engineer  has  served  him 
well,  and  his  legal  knowledge  has  been  of  great 
value  to  him  in  the  two  great  emergencies 
which  he  was  called  of  a  sudden  to  face,  when 
many  of  the  employes  of  the  road  went  out  on 
strike.  He  lives  not  five  minutes'  walk  from 
his  office,  and  he  is  frequently  there  as  early 


as  7  o'clock  in  the  morning.  In  the  summer, 
when  he  is  at  his  country  place,  he  takes  tin 
first  train  into  the  city,  while  the  bankers  ami 
brokers  and  professional  men  who  live  near 
him,  do  not  follow  until  two  or  three  hours  later 
He  rarely  leaves  his  office  before  6  o'clock,  ami 
sometimes  is  there  until  late  at  night.  His 
office  is  a  place  of  comfort,  but  not  of  lux- 
ury. Major  Webb  is  democratic  in  his  rela- 
tions with  men,  and  none  of  the  red  tape 
wliich  prevails  in  some  of  the  great  corpora- 
tion offices  annoys  visitors  who  desire  to  see 
him.  If  a  delegation  from  the  engineers  or 
switchmen,  or  from  any  of  the  other  employ»^s 
call.  Major  Webb  receives  them  in  a  manner 
which  does  not  lower  their  self-respect.  There 
is  neither  condescension  nor  haughtiness  in 
his  relations  with  them.  Major  Webb  will 
receive  hard-handed  employes,  and  within  an 
hour  be  in  association  with  a  group  of  million- 
aires, fellow-directors  of  his  in  the  great  bank 
which  is  located  near  his  office,  and  his  man- 
ner is  the  same  in  each  case.  He  treats  every- 
body in  a  business-like  way.  He  is  quick- 
spoken,  prompt,  decisive,  without  being  curt 
or  brusque. 

As  a  railroad  man,  he  is  what  is  called  a 
flyer.  Like  William  H.  Vanderbilt,  he  is  fond 
of  going  fast,  and  when  business  calls  him  to 
a  remote  point,  he  will  order  a  locomotive 
attached  to  his  special  car,  and  within  half  an 
hour  after  the  decision  is  taken,  will  be  flying 
over  the  rails  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  a  minute. 
He  is  absolutely  fearless  in  his  travels,  as 
William  H.  Vanderbilt  was.  Business  men 
may  see  him  in  the  afternoon  of  one  day,  and 
hear  of  him  the  next  morning  at  Buffalo,  450 
miles  away.  This  does  not  indicate  restless- 
ness, but  energy.  Major  Webb  is  one  of  the 
most  (piiet,  self-contained  and  serene-man- 
nered of  all  our  railway  managers. 

When,  just  after  he  became  vice-presiden  , 
he  was  called  upon  to  face  a  most  dangerous 
strike,  railway  men  said  that  he  had  been 
put  to  the  test  too  early,  and  some  of  them 
feared  that  he  would  not  be  equal  to  the 
responsibility.  Depew  was  in  Europe.  Cor- 
nelius Vanderbilt  in  Newport,  and  members 
of   the  executive  board   scattered    here    and 


H.    IVALTKR   WEBB. 


\?7 


summer. 

takes  tlu' 

ikers  and 

live  near 

ours  later 

:lock,  and 

5ht.      His 

t   of  lux- 

1  his  rela- 

red   taj)f 

corpora- 

ire  to  see 

jineers  or 

employes 

a  manner 

ct.  There 

htiness  in 

,Vebb  will 

within  an 

)f  million- 

[reat  bank 

his  man- 

lats  every- 

is  quick- 

jeing  curt 

}  called  a 

he  is  fond 

dls  him  to 

ocomotive 

lin  half  an 

be  flying 

a  minute. 

ravels,  as 

iness  men 

c  day,  and 

iilfalo,  450 

e  rcstless- 

Qnc  of  the 

rene-man- 

•presiden' , 
dangerous 
had  been 
le  of  them 
al  to  the 
ope.  Cor- 
members 
here    and 


there.  Major  Webb  immediately  made  of  his 
uttice  a  campaign-place.  He  collected  his 
st.iif  about  him.  The  strikers  had  control  of 
tne  approaches  to  New  York  city,  and  traffic 
was  paralyzed.  He  first  took  pains  to  dis- 
cover how  many  of  the  men  were  out,  and 
also  to  learn  what  their  precise  grievance 
was.  If  it  was  a  question  of  time  or  wages 
or  any  other  thing  over  which  there  had  been 
misunderstanding  or  business  disagreement, 
he  believed  that  the  trouble  could  be  speed- 
ily settled.  He  found,  instead,  that  it  was  a 
matter  of  discipline,  that  the  men  protested 
against  certain  rules  which  the  subordinate 
officers  had  found  necessary,  as  they  believed, 
in  order  to  maintain  discipline.  The  strikers 
objected  to  the  discharge  of  certain  men  who 
were  reported  disobedient  or  incompetent, 
and  when  Major  Webb  heard  this,  he  said,  in 
a  (juiet  way,  to  his  staff :  "  This  is  a  point 
this  company  cannot  yield.  The  stockholders 
must  retain  the  right  to  manage,  in  their  own 
way,  this  property." 

Then  he  called  upon  his  resources.  He 
sent  agents  to  procure  men  to  take  the  places 
of  the  strikers.  He  called  upon  the  police 
force  of  New  York  for  protection,  and  got 
it.  Night  and  day  for  seventy-two  hours  he 
k'ft  his  office  for  only  a  few  moments  at  a 
time.  He  caught  catnaps,  and  two  nights 
did  not  sleep  a  wink.  And,  when  the  rail- 
way men  connected  with  other  lines  found 
out  what  he  was  doing,  they  said  :  "  There 
ii  a  young  general  in  command  at  the  Grand 
Central  Station." 

In  his  conferences  with  leaders  of  labor 
associations,  Major  Webb's  legal  knowledge 
was  of  great  service  to  him,  and  Mr.  Powderly 
himself,  who  met  him  in  conference  several 
times,  was  greatly  impressed  by  his  tact,  cool- 
ness, good  temper,  and  his  firmness  as  well. 

When  Mr.  Depew  returned  from  Europe, 
n  -t  a  sign  of  the  strike  appeared.  Cornelius 
Vanderbilt,  constantly  informed  over  the  wire 
.'It  ids  Newport  home  of  what  was  going  on, 
deemed  it  unnecessary  to  come  to  the  city. 

.\t  the  first  mutterings  of  the  strike  in  Buf- 
falo, information  of  which  was  sent  to  Major 
Webb  by  telegraph,  he  touched  his  electric  bell. 


the  messenger  who  answered  received  an  order 
which  was  taken  to  the  pro|)er  authority,  and 
within  half  an  hour  Major  Webb  was  aboard 
his  |)rivate  car,  speeding  over  the  tracks  at  the 
rate  of  fifty  uiilos  an  hour;  and  before  dawn 
nc.\t  morning  he  was  in  iJuffalo.  His  part  in 
that  convulsion  is  a  matter  of  recent  history, 
and  unnecessary  to  describe  here. 

In  physical  appearance,  as  his  ])hotogravure 
|)icture  shows.  Major  Webb  does  not  at  all 
suggest  the  typical  railway  manager.  He  is  of 
slight  figure,  medium  stature,  erect  in  carriage. 
He  cares  nothing  for  social  pleasures  of  the 
fashionable  set.  His  home  and  his  office  are 
his  life.  He  is  not  a  club  man.  He  takes  no 
conspicuous  part  in  jjolitics,  although  he  has 
strong  political  views  ;  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that 
not  a  dozen  men  employed  by  his  com- 
pany know  whether  he  is  a  Republican  or 
a  Democrat.  He  is  a  strong  churchman, 
being  a  vestryman,  and  one  of  the  most 
active  members  of  one  of  the  New  York 
uptown  Episcopal  churches;  and  if  the 
millionaires  contributed  sums  projjortionate 
to  their  wealth  as  great  as  those  he  gives 
for  church  work,  his  church  would  have  an 
enormous  income.  Major  Webb  is  a  great 
believer  in  the  future  possibilities  of  fast  rail- 
way travel.  He  has  studied  this  development 
with  great  care,  and  with  such  results  that  he 
is  now  running  daily  the  fastest  railway  train 
in  the  world,  making  nearly  a  mile  a  minute 
consecutively  for  450  miles.  His  experiments 
have  shown  that  the  old  idea  that  very  fast 
traveling  does  not  pay,  is  an  error,  buf  he  says 
that  in  order  to  make  it  pay,  the  cars  must  be 
light  but  strong,  the  service  sufficient  but  not 
luxurious,  and  the  carrying  capacity  limited, 
so  that  an  engine  will  not  be  compelled  to 
draw  too  heavy  a  train. 

Chauncey  M.  Dei)ew  has  the  reputation  of 
being  the  most  accessible  to  newspa|)cr  men 
of  .ill  the  distinguished  men  in  New  York,  yet 
he  is  not  more  so  than  Major  Webb.  Any 
respect.able  newspaper  man  is  welcome  to  his 
office  at  all  times,  and  he  treats  such  callers 
as  though  they  were  men,  and  like  one  who 
respects  their  calling.  The  reporter  has  yet  to 
be  found  who  has  got  of  Major  Webb  a  sug- 


128 


A   SQUVEXIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWREXCE  RIVER. 


I  • 


gL'stiun  that  a  puff  or  a  bit  of  praise  would  be 
pleasing.  He  will  not  talk  about  himself,  but 
will  chee-fwlly  give  all  the  news  which  he  has, 
provideu  it  is  consistent  with  the  policy  of  the 
road  to  uake  publication  of  it.  If  it  is  not 
consistent  he  says  frankly  :  "  That  is  scmt- 
thing  I  cannot  talk  to  you  about  just  now. 
Perhaps  I  may  be  able  to  do  so  to-morrow." 

Perhaps  this  disposition  is  partly  due  to  his 
recollection  of  the  fact  that  his  father  was  a 
newspaper  man  who  always  treated  the  I.um- 
blest  of  reporters  with  great  respect.  At  the 
time  C'len.  Webb  was  approaching  death,  and 
the  variuus  ncwsi)ap,ers  of  New  York  sent  re- 
porters to  his  home,  so  that  immediate  infor- 
mation of  his  death  might  be  obtained,  Gen. 
Webb  used  to  say  to  his  sons:  "Arr  you  tak- 
im:;  good  care  of  the  newspaper  men?  If  any 
of  them  have  to  wait  In.ig,  show  tiiem  some 
hospitality.  Give  them  a  glass  of  Madeira 
and  a  sandwich  or  biscuit,  and  do  not  forget 
that  the  newspaper  reporters  as  a  class  are 
hard-woiking,  fair-minded,  intelligent  men, 
who  should  be  treated  exactly  as  any  other 
business  man  is,  who  comes  to  you  on  business 
matters."  Whetlvr  this  injunction  accounts 
for  the  treatment  the  Major  and  his  brothers 
give  newspaper  men  or  not,  the  fact  remains 
that  they  all  are  thus  minded  when  they  re- 
ceive representatives  of  the  press. 

The  general  im[)ression  in  railway  circles 
is,  that  when  President  Dejjew  retires  from 
official  connection  with  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral, Major  Wjbb  will  be  his  successor. 

His  CoNNKCTiON  wim  the  Roads  of 
NoRTHKRN  New  York. 

What  we  have  thus  far  said  relates  to  Mr. 
Webb's  connection  with  the  main  lines  of 
the  Central  corporation,  the  extent  of  which 
all  our  readers  understand,  for  that  system  is 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  is  man- 
aged with  a  degree  of  judgment  and  T)racti- 
cal  capacity  that  has  elicited  the  wonder  of 
travellers  who  are  familiar  with  the  great 
lines  both  in  Europe  and  America.  lUit  it  is 
in  Major  Wei)b's  connection  with  our  own 
northern  line  that  he  has  been  brought  more 
directly   into  official  relations  v.-ith  our  own 


people.  Wlien  the  New  York  Central,  on 
March  14,  1891,  leased  the  lines  of  the  R. 
W,  &  O.  Road,  Major  Webb  was  placed  in 
complete  control  of  that  entire  system,  and 
became  the  managing  officer,  the  suprcnir 
executive  head.  Almost  from  the  very  week 
he  assumed  control,  die  beneficence  of  hi, 
management  has  made  itself  manifest.  He 
began  the  great  work  of  raising  the  newly- 
accpiired  property  to  the  high  standard  of  the 
trunk  line.  This  necessitated  new  bridges, 
new  rails,  and  the  accomplishment  of  alnKjst 
a  process  of  new  construction  —  entirely  so  in 
some  localities.  The  outlay  for  these  im- 
provements has  been  enormous,  reachin:; 
§2,000,000  of  which  $600,000  has  been  ex- 
pended in  the  construction  of  ne.v  oridges, 
built  of  steel  and  iron.  The  bridges  ujjon  the 
whole  line  are  now  as  good  as  any  in  tiic 
country. 

The  entire  road-bed  has  been  re-ballasted, 
and  in  most  of  it  new  ties  have  been  placed, 
and  the  number  of  the  same  per  mile  ha^  been 
increased.  New  steel  rails  have  been  laid, 
weighing  70  and  72  pounds  to  the  lineal  yard, 
and  the  ecpiipment  has  been  correspondingly 
improved  by  the  addition  of  standard  locomo- 
tives of  the  heaviest  pattern,  which  could  not 
be  run  over  the  old  R.  W.  &  O. ,  but  which  now, 
under  the  new  improvements  —  steel  rails, 
perfect  road-bed,  and  strong  bridges — are 
allowed  to  run  at  high  speed,  and  haul  heavy 
trains.  New  passenger  oars  have  been  added  ; 
in  fact,  the  road  has  been  virtually  re-con- 
structed. Freight  rates  have  been  reduced, 
and  the  general  conditions  have  been  greatly 
improved.  Among  other  things,  several  enter- 
prises  in  Northern  New  York  have  been  as- 
sisted ;  and  all  this  has  been  done  by  hard 
work,  and  under  the  plans  made  and  super 
vised  by  Mr.  Webb. 

For  such  labors,  so  well  done,  too  much 
praise  cannot  be  given  this  young  man,  who 
might  have  chosen  ease,  but  prefers  work. 
All  that  he  touches  he  benefits.  He  has  raised 
the  old  R.,  W.  i<v:  O.  R.  R.  system  from  a  de- 
caying condition,  with  worn  material  and 
weak  bridges,  to  become  a  grand  roadway  in 
itself,  the  natural  ally  of  the  great  trunk  sy> 


mm*\ 


rk? 


THEODORE  IWTTERFIELD. 


129 


entral,  on 
of  the  R. 
placed  in 
ystcni,  ami 
e  suprcmr 
:  very  week 
ncc    of  liis 

1  if  est.  He 
the  newly- 
dard  of  the 
;\v  bridges, 
it  of  ahnoht 
-itirely  so  in 

these  iui- 
3,  reachin;^ 
IS  been  ex- 
e.v  bridges, 
ges  upon  the 

any  in  tin- 

re-ballasted, 
been  placed, 
lile  ha:<  been 
e   been  laid. 

2  lineal  yard, 
respondingly 
^lard  locomo- 

coidd  not 
which  now, 
steel    rails, 
)ridges  —  arc 
haid  heavy 
)een  added  ; 
ally  re-con- 
cn   reduced, 
)een  greatly 
cveralenter- 
ivo  been  as- 
ac  by  hard 
and   super 

le,  too  much 
ng  man,  who 
refers  work. 
He  has  raised 
m  from  a  <U 
material  an<l 
1  roadway  in 
at  trunk  sys 


tcin  with  which  it  makes  close  connections, 
with  vestibuled  trains,  and  in  summer  with  its 
steady -running  "  tlyers  "  that  cross  the  country 
,u  forty  miles  an  hour  in  entire  safety.  The 
value  of  such  a  system,  so  connected,  adds  to 
the  value  of  every  acre  of  land  in  Northern 
New  York,  and  is  of  interest  to  the  poorest 
111  in  as  well  as  to  tiie  richest.  The  remark- 
,u)lc  freedom  from  i)ersonal  accidents  to  pas- 
^e:igers  during  the  year  1894  affords  the  best 
pDs.sible  guaranty  that  the  system  is  well  and 
s  ilcly  managed.  Speed  and  comfort  are  two 
( onditions  demanded  by  modern  travellers; 
but  the  perfect  lombination  is  a  rare  one.  On 
most  American  railroads,  high  S|)eed  is  only 
possible  at  the  expense  of  danger  and  discom- 
tott.  Xo  combine  comfort  and  safety  with 
liie  greatest  speed,  perfect  equipment  and 
ibsence  of  siiarp  curves  are  necessary.  This 
IS  certainly  the  case  with  the  R.,  W.  &  O.  sys- 


tem. Its  great  eastern  and  western  outlets, 
the  New  Vork  Central  and  Hudson  River 
Roads,  hold  the  world's  championshij)  for 
long  distance  fast  trains,  won  by  recent  im- 
provements in  equipment  and  locomotive- 
building,  that  fairly  mark  an  epoch  in  railroad- 
ing ;  and  its  hundred-ton  engines,  borne  on 
massive  rails  weighing  120  pounds  per  yard, 
now  skim  with  perfect  safety  around  curves  at 
the  rate  of  fifty-five  miles  an  hour,  'i'hesolid- 
est  of  road-beds  is  needed  to  with.stand  this 
marvelous  speed,  and  to  bear  the  enormous 
locoinotives  and  trains  ;  what  it  does  with 
safety  is  impossible  to  other  railroads  of  in- 
ferior equipment,  or  built  with  sharp  curves. 
Excepting  the  Gi '*t  Western  ot  (Canada, 
which  has  one  air-line  reacli  of  100  miles,  the 
New  York  Central  str.iight  tra<  ks  -.•xceed  those 
of  any  other  railroad  in  the  world. 

J.    A.    H. 


THEODORE   BUTTERFIELD. 

Mr.  Rti  TTERFiEin  comes  into  the  transpor-  bor.     John  Butterfield  also  started  and  owned 

tation  system  of  North. 'rn  New  York  by  what  the  famous   I'ony  Kxpress  or  Overland  .M.tII, 

ni  ly  be    called   "natural  inheritance."      His  which  was  the  precursor  of  the   Pacific  rail- 

i;randfather,  the  Honorable  John   Butterfield,  roads. 

of  Utica,  was  the  originator  of  the  American  Theodore  Buttcrfield's  uncle,  Major-dcneral 

Kxpress  Com|)any,  which  was  started   under  Daniel  Hutterfield,  was  tiie  fi'st  general  super- 

th'j   firm    of   Wells,   Hutterfield    &    Company.  intendent  of  the  American  Kxpress  Company, 

He  also  raised  the  money  and  built  the  first  and  also  was  chief  of  staff  of  the  various  (om- 

Western   Union   Telegraph   Line,   which   was  munders   of  the   Army   of  the    I'otomac,  and 

rillod  the  ,\lorse  Line   Telegraijh  at  that  tiai^,  i,ave    the    celebrated    order,   by   direction    of 

:uul  was  a  tlirector  in  the   New  York  Ceii'r i!  (leneral  Meade,  to   the  corps  (ominanders  to 

in  its  early  stages,  and  one  of  the  prouio  en  fight  Lee  at  Gettysbur);,  the  battle  that  nearly 

and  capitalists  who  built  the  Utica  an^l  Hh.ck  broke  the  back  of  the  Conftderac  y. 

River  read,  which  started  in  op|)osition  to  the  Mr.    IhuUMfield    has   been    connected   with 

Rome    and    Watertown     road,    because    they  the   railroads   of   No/thcrn    New  York    for  20 

could  not   agree  on   a   starting   juiint,  as  the  yeirs.      He  began    as  chief   clerk   in    the  ai - 

(  'jiitalists  of  Northern    New  York  wanted  to  counting  department  of  the  old  Utica  &     lack 

stirt  from  Herkimer  ;  the  Ulica  i)eople  would  River  railroad,  at    Utica,  and  was  soon   after 

not  hear  to  that,  and  were  bound  to  start  from  made   general  ticket  agent,  and    tluu   general 

Utica;    .so    the    other    people    started    from  passenger  agent  of  that  road  ;   and,  as  the  road 

Rome,  and  the    Utica   peo|)le,  rot   to  be  out-  grew,  he  was  made  general  freight  and  passen- 

ilonc,  started    their    road   from    Utica.  which  ger  agent.      He  remained  in  that  |)osition  until 

was  built  up  to  Moonville,  ;uid  finally  extended  the  consolidation  with   the   Rome,  Watertown 

to  Ogdensburgh,  Clayton  and   Sackets   Har-  &   Ogdensburg    railroad,    when    he    was    ap- 


li^mi 


T.HO 


A   SOrVEN/R  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE   RIVER. 


pointed  general  passenger  agent  of  the  R.,  W. 
iV  C).  R.  R.,  and  has  he'd  that  position  under 
the  <  oiisolidation  of  that  system  with  tlie  New 
Vork  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.'s. 
When  first  ap])ointed  he  was  the  youngest 
general  tick'.t  agent  in  tiu-  United  States. 
His  experience  as  assistant  to  tlie  general 
auperintendent,  and  in  the  operating  depart- 


cursions,  such  as  the  New  York,  Washington 
and  Cliicago  excursions;  and  the  idea  .i 
attaching  sleej^ing-cars  and  drawing-room  car, 
to  excursion  trains,  now  generally  adopied, 
originated  with  him. 

•\t  tl!e  time  ot"  hi;  ap])ointment  he  was  i^  • 
youngest  genera!  passenger  agent  in  the  Urit' d 
Stales.    He  is  beyond  all  doubt  the  most  pojiii- 


•<!• 


TIIKOIinKI'    IMTTKRKlKLn. 


ment  of  the  Utica  U  HIack  River  railroad, 
made  him  familiar  with  all  dcivartments  of 
railroading,  and  that  is  the  secret  of  his  suc- 
cess in  the  passenger  business,  as  he  thor- 
oughly imderstands  the  details  in  railroading, 
and  has  in  addition  rare  extcutive  ability. 
He  is  the  originator  of  the  long-distance  ex- 


lar  railroad  man  in  Northern  New  York,  the 
best  known  and  most  appreciated.  With  a  <  K  ir 
luad  and  ample  knowledge  of  all  railro.ui 
matters,  his  suggestions  at  the  meetings  of  he 
passenger  agents  of  the  whole  country  ue 
always  listened  to  with  the  closest  attention, 
and  usually  adopted. 


COLONEL  ZEBULON  HOWELL  BENTON. 


131 


Washington 
he  idea  .1 
^-roota  cai^ 
ly  acloi)ic  i, 

he  was  tVe 

1  the  Urit.il 

most  poi'".- 


lew  York,  the 
.  With  :i<KMr 
f  all  railroad 
loetingsof  h.' 
;  country  .^re 
jest  attention, 


rni.,   /pnriov  kowfi  i    hfvtov. 
COLONEL  ZEBULON  HOWELL  BENTON, 

|('iipu-il  from  Wnllmc's  (iiiiilr  to  ttu-  Ailiruinlucks  I 

IKkkk   was    pruhahly   no    niort'    romantir,  ticulars,  in    peakud   felt   hat,  long   black  coat 

I'll  tiires(iue  or  conspicuous  figuro  'onnected  and    rurtled    shirt  —  every    article   faultlessly 

Willi  the  chronicles  of   Lake    Moti  tparte  than  neat.       With     his    fresh,    ruddy    complexion, 

<  "loMel    Zihulon    II.    lU-nton-      'I'lie   a(  ( om-  clean-shaven  face,  rich  growth  of   snow-white 

pinying    engraving   faithfully    represents    his  hnir,  graceful   carriage,   and   form   almost  as 

apjjearance     in    daily     life.       He    invariably  lithe  and    perfect,  at  the  ripe  age  cf  82,  as  if 

dressed  with  the  nicest   regard  to  minute  par-  in  the  (lower  of  youth  and  strength,  he  seemed 


132 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


the  embodiment  of  a  gentleman  of  the  old 
regime. 

Colonel  Henton  was  born  in  Apulia,  N.  Y., 
January  27,  1811,  and  the  details  of  his  check- 
ered life  would  fill  a  book.  We  can  only 
briefly  ilhuii.'  to  the  following  facts:  He  was 
a  cousin  of  Thomas  Hart  Benton,  the  great 
Missouri  statesman,  and  consequently  a  kins- 
man of  his  daughter,  Jessie  Benton  Fremont, 
the  noted  wife  of  the  famous  "Pathfmder." 
In  the  war  of  the  Rebellion  he  received  an 
ajipointment  on  the  staff  of  General  Fremont, 
but  before  he  could  arrange  to  take  the  posi- 
tion the  general  was  susi)ended.  He  was 
also  a  relative  of  the  eminent  novelist,  James 
Fenimore  ('ooper.  From  his  very  boyhood 
he  led  an  extremely  active  life,  and  before  he 
was  fairly  out  of  his  teens  he  was  entrusted 
by  his  employers  with  commissions  of  the  ut- 
most importance,  which  he  brought  to  suc- 
cessful consummation.  He  was  engaged 
from  time  to  tinie  in  great  enterprises,  espe- 
cially those  of  land,  mining  and  railroading, 
'i'he  capital  invested  in  these  sometimes  ex- 
ceeded a  million  dollars.  His  ventures,  often 
gigantic,  were  not  confined  to  Lewis  and  .St. 
Lawrence  counties,  but  extended  into  the 
Canadas,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  even 
into  South  Anurica.  The  mines  at  Rossie, 
Clifion.  Jayville  anil  Alpine  are  examples  of 
these  operations.  We  are  convinced  that  the 
Carthage  &  Adirondac  k  Railway  owes  its  ex- 
istenix"  to  Colonel  Benton  and  to  Hon.  Joseph 
Paiiud,  of  Harrisville,  N.  V.,  as  they  were 
unceasing  in  their  efforts  to  establish  that  line 
to  the  Jayville  mines. 

I'loui  the  C.irthage  Republican,  Philadel- 
pliia  Press  and  other  reliable  sources,  we  glean 
the  following  interesting  information:  Soon 
after  the  arrival  of  Joseph  Bonaparte  in  this 
«ountry,  he  met  and  loved  a  beautiful  (^>uak- 
«'ress,  by  the  name  of  Annette  Savage,  a 
member  of  a  family  of  high  respei  lability,  re- 
siding in  Philadelphia,  des(  cndants  of  the 
celebrated  Indian  prim  ess,  I'ocahontas.  They 
were  subsequently  married  in  jirivate  by  a 
justice  of  the  peace  in  that  city.  Two 
daughters  vvere  the  fruit  of  this  union,  one  of 
whom  died  in  infancy.     The  other  was  chris- 


tened Charlotte  C  Soon  after  arriving  it 
maturity,  she  became  the  wife  of  Colonel  Ben- 
ton. Their  marriage  resulted  in  seven  <  Ini 
dren.  The  five  surviving  bear  the  appropn 
ate  names  of  Josephine  Charlotte,  ZenaitK 
Bonaparte,  Louis  Joseph,  Zebulon  Napolemi 
and  Thomas  Hart. 

Mrs.  Benton,  having  obtained  a  letter  ot 
introduction  from  General  Grant  to  Hon. 
Elihu  B.  Washburn,  United  St  Ues  Minist.  1 
to  France,  and  one  also  from  Dr.  J.  DeHavm 
White,  the  eminent  Philadelphia  dentist,  1.. 
his  former  pupil.  Dr.  Evans,  the  dental  sur- 
geon of  Louis  Napoeon,  repaired  to  Paris  in 
1869.  She  obtained  audience  wiMi  the  Em- 
peror, and  received  immediate  recognition  iis 
the  daughter  of  Joseph  Bonaparte;  and  by  his 
im|)erial  will  and  the  laws  of  France,  tlic 
union  of  her  i)arents  was  confirmed  and  lur 
legitimacy  established.  Honored  by  an  invi- 
tation to  attend  the  French  court,  she  and 
two  of  her  children  were  there  kindly  nm! 
cordially  entertained  by  the  l^mperoi  and  Em- 
press, who  presented  her  with  valuable  sou 
venirs  upon  the  occasion.  Napoleon  oficn 
expressed  great  regret  that  he  did  not  know 
his  cousin  earlier,  so  that  he  might  the  soom  1 
have  bestowed  upon  her  children  the  placis 
to  which,  by  birth,  they  were  entitled,  lb 
presented  her  with  her  father's  palace  ;  Ixit 
this  was  lost  through  the  downfall  of  the  em 
pire  and  of  that  ill-fated  royal  family.  Mi- 
Benton  .ittended  Napoleon  during  his  impris- 
onment in  Germany,  and  a  short  time  after- 
ward (1871)  returned  to  America.  She  was 
a  woman  of  remarkable  beavity  and  talent, 
and  of  most  lovely  characteristics.  Her  eyes 
were  large,  dark  and  lustrous,  and,  like  tlu' 
Cijlonel's,  never  dimmed  by  age.  Receivini: 
a  fine  education,  in  Europe  and  in  this  coun- 
try, she  early  develojied  great  versatility  in 
writing.  Many  brilliant  arti«  les  in  various 
pai'ersand  magazines  were  the  productions  ot 
her  pen,  and  she  was  the  author  of  a  book  ol 
rare  merit,  entitle<l  "  France  and  her  l'eo|)le" 
She  died  December  25,  1890,  at  Richfield 
Springs.  Her  husband,  the  subject  of  this 
sketch,  died  May  i^).  1893,  closing  an  uni(jue, 
interesting  and  wonderfully  romantic  life. 


BURA'I.XG  OF    THE  STEAMER  "SIR  ROIiERT  PEEU 


•33 


arrivirif;  it 
olonel  Ikii- 

scven  tliil- 
e  appropri- 

to,  Zenaidr 
1   Napok-iiii 

a   letter  li! 

it      to      11(111. 

es  Ministii 
[.  DeHavni 

dentist,  in 

dental  sm- 

lo  Paris  III 

•  h  the  Km- 

L:ognition  as 

;  and  by  lii^ 

France,   llic 

ed  and  lur 

by  an  invi- 

rt,  she  iind 

kindly  nnd 

ror  and  Em- 

\liiable  soi; 

loleon   otiin 

J  not  kninv 

\  the  soonii 

\  tlie  plact  ^ 

titled.     H( 

laiace  ;    but 

of  the  em- 

inily.     Mr- 

;  his  impri  - 

time  aftii- 
a.  She  was 
and  talent, 
Her  eye- 
lul,  like  tlu' 
Receiving 
n  this  coiin- 
ersatility  in 

in  variou-. 
oductions  ot 
of  a  book  III 
icr  People" 
It  Richfield 
ject  of  thi'' 
i^  an  iini(pie, 
ntic  life. 


BURNING    OF   THE   STEAMER  "SIR    ROBERT    PEEL." 


[See  Article  on 

/^N  the  29th  day  of  December,  1837,  the 
V^y  steamer  Caroline,  an  American  steam- 
boat, while  lyinj;  lied  to  the  wharf  at  Sclilosscr, 
.1  port  on  the  Niagara  river  below  JUiffalo,  was 
hoarded  by  a  band  of  C'anadians,  robbed,  set 
iiic  to,  cut  loose  from  her  moorings,  and  sent 
biirning  over  Niagara  Falls.  Tiiis  caused 
_'nat  indignation  throughout  the  country,  and 
idded  much  to  the  excitement  consequent 
(111  the  breaking  out  of  the  so-called  Patriot 
war,  which  was  a  weak  rebellion  on  the  jiart 
ct  some  dissatisfied  Canadians,  witii  which  a 
iiuiiiber  of  United  States  citizens  very  fool- 
ishly took  sides.  The  steamer  Sir  Robert 
IVi-1  was  new  and  stanch,  built  at  lirot  kvillc 
only  the  year  before,  and  owned  by  both 
Canadian  anil  American  citizens.  She  was 
-.aileil  by  Capt.  John  W.  Armstrong.  Starting 
from  Presrott  on  the  afternoon  of  the  J9th  of 
M  IV,  i8_5S.  she  touched  at  IJrockville  on  her 
u  IV  to  Toronto,  having  on  board  a  cargo 
111(1  nineteen  passengers.  She  arrived  at 
McDonnell's  wharf  at  midniglit  to  take  on 
wood.  It  iiad  been  hintetl  to  the  captain  be- 
tore  leaving  Prockville  tliat  there  was  danger 
ahead,  but  he  disregarded  the  warning.  Tlie 
[ussengers  were  asleep  in  the  (  abin,  and  the 
1  nw  had  almost  finished  their  labor  of  taking 
nil  wood,  when  a  party  of  twenty-two  men, 
ihsguised  and  painted  like  Indians  and  armed 
with  muskets  and  bayonets,  rushed  on  board, 
\(lling  like  savages,  and  shouting,  *'  Remember 
the  Caroline!"  'I'hey  drove  the  passengers 
and  crew  ashore,  allowing  but  little  time  for 
tlie  removal  of  baggage  belonging  to  them,  the 
most  of  which  was  lost.  The  stcamiT  was 
liii'd  in  sever.d  places,  and  tlie  party  left  in 
nvo  boats,  steering  for  .Abel's  Isl.ind,  about 
lour  miles  away,  which  they  reached  at  sun- 
rise. The  ill-fated  steamersunk  in  mid-chan- 
ncl  but  a  sliort  distance  below  tlie  wharf 
wli(.re  she  was  captured,  and  tiiere  she  now 
111  s  twenty  fathoms  deep,  while  we  sail  to  and 
fio  directly  over  her  wreck. 

riie  leader  of  this  party  was  William  John- 


Patriot  War] 

ston,  better  known  to  fame,  or  notoriety  rather, 
as  "  Hill  Johnston,"  a  Canadian  outlaw, 
around  whose  career,  and  that  of  his  daughter 
Kate,  tile  once  famous  novelist,"  Ned  liunlline" 
(E.  Z.  C.  Judson),  threw  a  halo  of  mystery 
and  romance.  Hill  Johnston  was  born  at 
Three  Rivers,  Lower  Canaila,  lebruary  i, 
1782.  His  parents  removed  to  Kingston  in 
1784,  and  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  of 
1812,  he  was  a  grocer  in  Kingston,  and  a 
member  of  a  military  comi)any.  i'or  an  act 
of  insubordination,  it  is  said,  though  what  was 
its  nature  is  not  now  apparent,  he  was  tried  by 
a  court-martial,  lodged  in  jail,  and  his  prop- 
erly confiscated.  Escaping  thence  he  came 
to  the  States,  and  became  the  bitterest  and 
most  vindictive  foe  Canada  ever  had.  He 
acted  as  a  spy  for  the  .Americans  during 
tiie  war  of  1812-15,  robbed  the  Hrilish  mails, 
and  committed  every  depredation  possible 
upon  Canada  and  Canadians.  .After  the 
burning  of  the  Sir  Robert  Peel,  he  was  out- 
lawed by  both  the  United  Stales  and  Canadian 
governments,  who  tried  in  every  way  jtossible 
to  effect  his  capture;  but  his  hiding  places 
were  so  numerous,  anil  so  many  we'i  his  p(  r- 
sonal  friends,  that,  with  the  aid  of  his  daugh- 
ter Kale,  wiu)  ke[)l  him  supplied  with  food, 
which  she  look  to  him  in  the  dead  of  night  in 
her  skill  alone,  and  with  news  of  his  enemies, 
also,  ihat  they  succeeded  in  capturing  him  but 
twice,  both  of  which  times  he  escaped;  though 
if  the  storijs  told  of  his  hair-bri  adlh  escapes, 
whether  true  or  not,  were  written  down,  they 
would  fill  a  book.  Finally,  when  matters  be- 
came (piiel.  he  relumed  to  his  home  in  Clay- 
ton, and  in  time  was  appointed  keeper  of  the 
Rock  Island  liglu,  whose  rays  illumine  the 
very  spot  over  which  once  shone  the  light  of 
the  burning  steamer  Sir  Robert  Peel. 

The  des( cndants  of  Johnston  are  now  resi- 
dents of  Clayton,  where  lluy  have  been  for 
years  honorable  and  eflicient  citizens.  The 
original  William  was  a  *'  good  hater,"  as  shown 
by  his  bitter  denunciation  of  everything  British. 


134 


,1   SOC]-/:\fR  OF   THE  Sr.   /..lirA'/:.\(  /■   av/aav 


I'lUt  stepping  aside  from  the  mere  jierson- 
alities  concerned  in  sucli  an  affair  as  the  l)iirn- 
ini;  of  the  "  Peel,''  and  tlie  other  biirnin};  and 
murder  whicli  precedes  tliat  ejiisode,  to-^v'  , 
the  burning  of  the  "  Caroline  "  at  Sclilosser 
landing  in  the  Niagara  River  —  it  is  dislieart- 
ening  to  consider  liow  strongly  such  unlawful 
acts  appeal  to  the  sympathy  of  the  reckless 
characters  to  he  found  in  every  community, 
and  that  from  such  small  beginnings  wars  are 
sometimes  begun  among  great  nations.  The 
affair  of  1S57,  the  lawless  efforts  of  a  few  in- 
vading marauders  up'on  the  soil  of  Can.tda, 
came    near    |)recipitating     England    and    the 


United  States  into  a  conflict  ot  arms  which 
would  have  been  deplorable  even  if  our  cause 
were  just.  Hut  at  that  time  the  jirejudices  (jI 
the  American  masses  were  all  wrong,  and  it  i^ 
curious  reading  at  this  day  to  go  over  the 
newspapers  of  that  era,  nearly  all  of  them 
sym])atiii/ing  with  the  invaders,  who  wen' 
honored  by  being  called  "|)atriots."  Robber-, 
would  have  been  a  more  appropriate  designa- 
tion. lUit  the  fate  of  the  poor  fellows  who 
were  sent  to  the  then  penal  colony  of  V.ui 
Dieman's  land,  now  .Australia,  will  iirobalily 
liavc  a  weakening  effect  upon  any  future 
undertaking  of  that  kind. 


GENERAL  WILLIAM  H.  ANGELL 


W.i^s  long  prominently  connected  with  the 
interests  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  legitimately 
i)elongs  with  those  who  are  entitled  to  promi- 
nent remembrance  in  any  history  of  the 
Upper  St.  Lawrence  and  of  the  Thousand 
Islands.  He  is  remembered  with  pleisure  by 
the  older  citizens  of  Clayton  and  of  Jefferson 
county,  for  he  was  a  man  of  great  business 
capai  ity  and  force.  Many  buildings  in 
Watertown  bear  silent  witness  of  liis  manner 
of  ((mstr'Tfion  —  notably  the  Taggart  Hros'. 
mill  at  ti,  ioiver  falls,  and  the  water-reservoir. 
now  over  forty  years  in  use.  He  was  born  in 
Huili.igton,  Otsego  county,  N.  Y.,  in  1797,  one 
of  a  family  of  ten  children.  When  only  ten 
years  of  age  he  left  home,  and  thenceforward 
earned  not  only  his  own  living,  but  helped  to 
ca.i  for  the  less  able  members  of  the  family. 
At  fourteen  he  gave  his  father  $200  for  his 
"time" — that  is,  for  the  time  he  woidd  be  a 
minor,  and  his  father  would,  therefore,  be 
legally  entitled  to  his  earnings.  The  General 
camv  into  Jefferson  county  about  1811;.  He 
first  located  at  Smithville,  where  he  wcnf  into 
business  with  old-time  Jesse  Smith.  When 
less  than  twenty  years  of  age  he  bought  over 
||vOoo  worth  of  goods,  and  from  Smithville, 
went  to  Clayton.  Several  years  later  (about 
1S54)  he  was  at  Sackets  Harbor.  In  1824  he 
had  married  Miss  Harriet  Warner.  Seven 
children  were  born  to  this  union,  fout  of  whom 


are  still  living.  While  at  Sackets  Harbor  the 
General  became  associated  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Sackets  Harbor  Hank,  which  w.u 
later  merged  into  the  Hank  of  Watertown,  oi 
which,  about  1842,  General  Angell  becann 
sole  owner.  In  1858  his  beloved  wife  died- 
a  huly  well  remembered  in  Watertown  for  lu  1 
devotion  to  charity  and  Christian  work- 
The  deserving  iH)or  never  had  a  better  friend, 
for  what  she  gave  was  given  with  a  grace  and 
gentleness  that  made  the  action  doubly  en- 
dearing. 

In  1.S60,  General   .Xngell  married  Miss  M 
Louise  Judson,  cousin  of  the  late  Gen.  R.  W. 
Judson,  of  ( )i;densburg.      She  was  an  accom- 
plished lady,  the  ])attern  for  a  kind,  dutiful 
wife.      In    1.S61,  at  the  beginning  of   the  civii 
war,    the    General     removed   to    New    York, 
where    he  become   interested   in  several   cit* 
contracts,  and  in    1862  he  removed  his  famiiv 
to  that  city,  which  was  thenceforth  his  home 
By  nature  he  was  too  active  to  relish  a  life  n- 
idleness,  and  he  took  up  several  means  of  :u  ■ 
quiring  wealth,  among  others  extending  tl  ■ 
circulation    of    his    bank    from    $29,000    td 
§80,000.     He  was  also  largely   interested   m 
he    Continental    Steel    Works    at     Maspeih 
Long  Island.      In  1863  the  imposition  of  at.u 
of  ten  per   cent  u])on  the  circulation  of  St.nic 
Hanks,  drove  them  out  of  business.     In  187 1, 
(leneral     Anm'U     had    accumulated     enoUf^li 


arms  wliir  h 
if  our  caiwi 
rejiuliccs  ni 
ng,  and  it  i> 
;o  over  tlir 
all   of  tliom 

who    wcif 
Robbir-, 
ite  (lesion. i- 

c'llows  will  I 
nny  of  V'.in 
ill   i)robalily 

any    futiiir 


;  Harbor  the 
the  mananf- 
i,  which  was 
'atcrtown,  oi 
gcll    bccamr 

wife  (lied- 
rtown  for  lu-i 
stiaii  work^ 
better  fricmi, 

a  grace  ami 
1  doubly  (11- 

•ied  Miss  M 
e  Gen.  R.  W 
as  an  ac-com- 
kind,  diitiliii 
!  of  the  rivi; 

New    York. 

several  n' 
ed  his  faniii\ 
rth  his  honif 
elish  a  life  n; 
means  of  a(  ■ 
xtending  tl.' 

$29,000  til 
interested  m 
at  Masi)fih 
sition  of  a  t.i\ 
tion  of  State 
:ss.  In  1871. 
ated     en()U^;!i 


GENERAL   WILLIAM  IL  ANGELL. 


'?5 


means  to  make  home  comfortable,  and  in  that  his  home  early  in  life,  instead  of  Watertown, 

vcar    he    removed   to   (ieneseo,   expecting   to  he  would  have  taken   rank  with  George   Law 

s|icnd  there  several  years  in  the  enjoyment  of  and   the   elder   Vanderbilt,    for  he  was   their 

needed  rest  and  a  release  from  the  cares  of  superior    in    shrewdness   of    management,  in 

business.     But   his    hopes  were  to   be   disap-  persjiicuity,  in   ability  to  predict  the   rise  or 

pointed.     On  the  ist  of  July,    1872,  he  was  fall  of  cereals  or  articles  of  general  consump- 


OENERAI.    WII.I.IAM    II.  ANCEI.I. 

taken  ill,   and  after  great  suffering,   died  at  tion.     He  was  a  firm  friend,  and  he  had  many 

Cicneseo  on  November  26,  1872.  friends,  for  he  was  a  friendly  man,  democru- 

Vieweil  in  the  ligh.t  of  his  varied  and  event-  tic    in     his    ways,    easily    approached,     never 

(ill  career,   General    Angell   was   a  character  elated  by   success,  nor  intimidated   by  adver- 

(lifticult  to  reproduce.      He  had  a  noble  soul.  sity.     From  1820  to  i86f,  he  was  a  conspicu- 

which  scorned  little  things.      He  was  undoubt-  ous   figure   in   Jefferson   county,   and  his  le- 

edly  superior  to  the  average  able  business  men  moval  was  a  source  of  sincere  regret, 
of  his  day — and  had  he  made  New  York  city  j.  A.  H. 


THE  WHITTLESEY  AFFAIR. 


IN  giving  an  extended  notice  of  this  Whii- 
tlfscy  c|)isode,  we  are  perhaps  open  to  llic 
criticism  of  making  a  great  deal  out  of  a  com- 
paratively unimportant  matter;  hut  tlicre  is  so 
mucli  of  tragedy  in  the  story,  and  it  affords 
so  striking  an  illustration  of  the  soul-destroy- 
ing influence  of  a  dishonest  greed  for  money, 
that  the  tale  rises  above  a  mere  relation,  and 
becomes  a  great  moral  lesson.  In  that  light 
we  present  it  as  a  legitimate  chapter  of  history. 
Samuel  Whittlesey,  originally  from  Tolland, 
Ct.,  had  removed,  about  1808,  to  Watertown, 
and  engaged  in  business  as  a  lawyer.  On  the 
I2lii  of  l-ebruary,  181 1,  he  received  the  ap- 
jjointment  of  ilistrict  attorney  for  the  territory 
comjirised  in  Lewis,  JefTerson  and  St.  Law- 
rence counties,  and  on  the  6th  of  February, 
1813,  lie  was  superseded  by  the  appointment 
of  .Amos  Ik-nedict,  who  had  preceded  him. 
Kvciits  connected  with  this,  leil  to  some  sym- 
patuy  for  him,  and  the  office  of  brig.Tde  pay- 
master, which  had  been  tendered  to  Mr.  Jason 
Fairbanks,  was  by  him  declined  in  favor  of 
Wliitilesey,  and  he,  witii  Perley  Keyes,  be- 
came security  for  the  honest  discharge  of  the 
duties  of  the  office.  At  the  close  of  the  war 
a  large  amount  of  money  being  due  to  the 
drafted  militia,  for  services  on  the  frontier, 
Whittlesey  went  to  New  York,  accompanied 
by  his  wife,  to  obtain  the  money,  and  received 
at  the  Merchants'  Hank  in  that  city  $30,000, 
in  one,  two,  three,  five  and  ten-dollar  bills, 
with  which  he  started  to  return.  .\t  Schenec- 
nectady,  as  was  afterwards  learned,  his  wife 
reported  themselves  robbed  of  §8,700,  an  oc- 
currence which  greatly  distressed  and  alarmed 
him.  but  she  advised  him  not  to  make  it  pub- 
lic at  that   moment,  as  they  might   thereby 


belter  take  steps  that  might  lead  to  its  re- 
covery, and  on  tlu  way  home,  she  in  an  art- 
ful and  gradual  manner  persuaded  him  that 
if  they  should  report  the  robbery  of  a  part 
of  the  money,  no  one  would  believe  it,  as  a 
thief  would  take  tiie  whole,  if  any.  In  short 
(to  use  a  homely  proverb),  she  urged  that 
they  might  as  well  "die  for  an  old  sheep 
as  a  lamb,"  and  keep  the  rest,  as  they  would 
inevitably  be  accused  of  taking  a  part.  Her 
artifice,  enforced  by  the  necessities  of  tlie 
case,  took  effect,  and  he  suffered  himself  to 
become  the  dupe  of  his  wife,  who  was  doubt- 
less the  chief  contriver  of  tiie  movements 
which  followed.  Accordingly,  on  his  return, 
he  gave  out  word  that  his  money  had  been 
procured,  and  would  be  paid  over  as  soon  as 
the  necessary  papers  and  pay-roll  could  be 
prepared.  In  a  few  days,  having  settled  his 
arrangements,  he  started  for  Trenton  on 
horseback,  with  his  portmanteau  filled,  slop- 
ping at  various  places  on  his  way,  to  announce 
that  on  a  given  day  he  would  return,  to  ])ay 
to  those  entitled,  iheir  dues,  and  in  several  in- 
stances evinced  a  carelessness  about  the  cus- 
tody of  his  baggage  that  excited  remark  from 
inn-keepers  and  others.  On  arriving  at  Hill- 
ings'tavern  at  Trenton,  he  assembled  several 
persons  to  whom  money  was  due,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  pay  them,  but  upon  opening  his 
portmanteau,  he,  to  the  dismay  of  himself 
anil  others,  found  that  they  had  been  ripped 
open,  and  that  the  money  was  gone!  With  a 
pitiable  lamentation  and  well-affected  sorrow, 
he  bewailed  the  robbery,  instantly  despatched 
messengers  in  quest  of  the  thief,  ofTered 
82,000  reward  for  his  apprehension,  and  ad- 
vertised in   staring  handbills   throughout  the 


THE  WHITTLESEY  AFFAIR. 


1.57 


( (Hintry,  in  hopes  of  gaining  some  clew  that 
would  enable  liim  to  recos-er  liis  treasure.  In 
tins  anxiety  he  was  joined  l>y  luindreds  of 
(itliers,  who  had  been  thus  indefinitely  delayed 
111  the  recei|)t  of  their  needed  anc!  rightful 
(lues,  but  althou^^h  tliere  was  no  lack  of  /eal 
HI  these  efforts,  yet  nothing  occurred  upon 
wiiich  to  settle  suspicion,  and  with  a  heavy 
heart,  and  many  a  sigh  and  tear,  he  returned 
liDUie,  and  related  to  his  family  ;'nd  friends 
Ills  ruin.  As  a  natural  <:onse(iuencc,  the 
(.vent  became  at  once  the  absorbing  theme  of 
the  country,  for  great  numbers  were  affected 
m  their  pecuniary  concerns  by  it,  and  none 
more  than  the  two  endorsers  of  the  sureties 
of  Whittlesey.  These  gentlemen,  wlio  were 
shrewd,  jjractical  and  very  observing  men, 
immediately  began  to  interrogate  him,  singly 
.iiul  alone,  into  the  circumstaice  of  the  jour- 
ney and  the  robbery,  and  l''airl)anks  in  jiar- 
!!(  nlar.  whose  trade  as  a  sad.iler  led  him  to  be 
minutely  observant  of  the  ipialities  and  ap- 
pearances of  leather,  made  a  careful  cxamin- 
ition  of  the  incisions  in  the  portmonteau,  of 
which  there  were  two,  tracing  upon  pa])er 
their  exact  size  and  shape,  and  upon  close  ex- 
amination, noticed  pin  holes  in  the  margin,  as 
if  they  ha(!  been  mended  up.  L'pon  compar- 
ing the  accounts  which  each  li;".l  sejiarately 
iihtained  in  a  long  and  searching  conversatton, 
tiu'se  men  became  convinced  that  the  money 
li;i(l  not  been  stolen  in  the  manner  alleged,  but 
tl'.at  it  was  still  in  the  ])ossession  of  Whittle- 
sey and  his  wife.  To  get  possession  of  this 
money  was  their  next  care,  and,  after  long 
consultation,  it  as  agreed  that  the  only  way 
to  do  tiiis,  was  to  gain  the  confidence  of  the 
t.imily,  and  defend  them  manfully  against  the 
insinuations  that  came  from  all  (juarters  that 
the  money  was  still  in  town.  In  tiiis  they 
succeeded  admirably,  and  from  the  declar- 
ations which  they  made  in  ])ublic  and  in  pri- 
vate, which  found  their  way  directly  back  to 
the  family,  the  latter  were  convinced  that, 
although  the  whole  world  were  against  them 
m  their  misfortunes,  yet  they  had  the  satis- 
faction to  know  that  the  two  men  who  were 
the  most  interested  were  still  by  their  side. 
To  gain  some  fact  that  would  lead  to  a  knowl- 


edge of  the  place  of  deposit,  Messrs.  Fair- 
banks ami  Keyes  agreed  to  listen  at  'he  win- 
dow of  the  sleeping  room  of  those  suspected, 
which  was  in  a  chamber,  and  overlooked  the 
roof  of  a  i)ia/./.a.  .\ccordingly,  after  dark, 
one  would  call  ujioii  the  family  and  detain 
them  in  conversation,  while  the  other  mounted 
a  ladder  and  placed  himself  where  he  could 
overhear  what  was  said  within,  and  although 
they  thus  became  convinced  that  the  money 
was  still  in  their  possession,  no  opinion  could 
be  formed  about  the  hiding  place.  Security 
upon  their  real  estate  was  demanded,  and 
readily  given. 

.A  son  of  the  family  hekl  a  commission  in 
the  navy,  and  was  on  the  jMiint  of  sailing  for 
the  Mediterranean,  and  it  was  suspected  that 
the  money  might  thus  have  been  sent  off,  to 
ascertain  which,  Mr.  i-'airbanks,  under  i)re- 
text  of  taking  a  criminal  to  the  State  Prison, 
went  to  New  York,  made  iiKjuiries  which  sat- 
isfied him  that  the  son  was  innocent  of  any 
knowledge  of  the  affair,  and  ascertained  at 
the  bank  the  size  of  the  jackages  taken.  Hi- 
had  been  told  by  Whittlesey  tliat  these  h.id 
not  been  opened  when  stolen,  an<i  by  making 
experiments  with  blocks  of  wood  of  the  same 
dimensions,  they  readily  ascertained  that 
bundles  of  that  size  could  not  be  ;^ot  through 
an  .ipcrlure  of  the  size  reported,  ami  that  in- 
stead of  a  seven  it  required  an  eighteen-inch 
slit  in  the  leather  to  allow  ot  tiuir  being  ex- 
tracted. Some  facts  were  gleaned  at  Albany 
that  shed  further  light,  among  which  it  was 
noticed  that  Mrs.  Whittlesey  at  her  late  visit 
(although  very  |)enurious  in  her  trade)  had 
been  very  profuse  in  her  expenses.  .After  a 
ten  (lays' absence  .Mr.  Fairbanks  returned;  his 
partner  having  listened  nights  meanwhile,  and 
the  intelligence  gained  by  evcs-drop|)ing,  al- 
though it  failed  to  disclose  the  locniilv  of  the 
lost  money,  continued  their  suspicions.  As 
goods  were  being  boxed  up  at  Whittlesey's 
house  at  a  late  hour  in  the  night,  and  tlie 
daughters  had  already  been  sent  on  to  Sack- 
ets  Harbor,  it  was  feared  that  the  family 
would  soon  leave ;  decisive  measures  were 
resolved  upon  to  recover  the  money,  the 
ingenuity  and   boldness  of  which   evince  th: 


«3S 


A  SOUIKXIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRKS'CE  RIVER. 


•%* 


sagacity  and  energy  of  the  parties.  Some 
nictliod  to  decoy  Whittlesey  from  home,  and 
frighten  him  by  threats,  mutilation  or  tor- 
ture, into  a  confession,  was  discussed,  but  as 
the  latter  might  cause  an  uncontrollable  hem- 
orriiagc,  it  was  resolved  to  try  the  cfTect  of 
drowning.  Some  experiments  were  made 
on  their  own  persons,  of  the  effect  of  submer- 
sion of  the  heail,  and  I>r.  Sherwood,  a 
physician  of  the  village,  was  consulted  on  the 
time  life  would  remain  under  water.  Having 
agreed  upon  a  plan,  on  the  evening  before  its 
execution,  they  repaired  to  a  lonely  place 
about  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  screened 
from  the  sight  of  houses  by  a  gentle  rise  of 
ground,  and  where  a  s|>ring  issued  from  the 
bank  and  flowed  off  through  a  miry  slough, 
in  which,  a  little  below,  they  built  a  dam  of 
turf  that  formed  a  shallow  pool.  It  was  ar- 
ranged that  Mr.  Fairbanks  should  call  upon 
Whittlesey,  to  confer  with  him  on  some 
means  of  removing  the  suspicions  which  the 
public  had  settled  upon  him,  by  obtaining 
certificates  of  character  from  leading  citizens 
and  orticers  of  the  army  ,  and  that  the  two 
were  to  repair  to  Mr.  Reyes's  house,  which 
was  not  far  from  the  spring.  .Mr.  Keyes  was 
to  be  absent  repairing  his  fence,  and  to  leave 
word  with  his  wife  that  if  any  one  inquired 
for  him,  to  send  them  into  tiie  tleld  where  he 
was  at  work.  Neither  had  made  confidants 
in  their  suspicions  or  their  plans,  except  that 
Mr.  Keyes  tliought  it  necessary  to  reveal 
them  to  his  son,  1'.  (lardner  Keyes,  then  seven- 
teen years  of  age,  whose  assistance  he  might 
need,  in  keeping  up  appearances,  and  in 
wh(>se  sagacity  and  fidelity  in  keeping  a  secret 
he  could  rely. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  July  17th 
(1815),  Mr.  Keyes,  telling  his  wife  that  the 
cattle  had  broken  into  his  grain,  shouldered 
his  axe  and  went  to  repair  the  fence  which 
was  thrown  down,  and  Mr.  Fairbanks  called 
upon  Whittlesey,  engag'd  him  in  conversa- 
tion, as  usual,  and  without  exciting  the 
slightest  suspicion,  induced  him  to  go  up  to 
see  his  partner,  whom  they  found  in  a  distant 
part  of  the  field  at  wi  k.  Calling  him  to 
them,   they   repaired     as  if    casually    to    the 


sp  ing,  where,  after  some  trifling  remark,  they 
explicitly  charged  him  with  the  robbery,  gaw 
their  reasons  for  thinking  so,  and  told  hin. 
that  if  he  did  not  instantly  disclose  the  local- 
ity of  the  money,  the  pool  before  him  shouM 
be  his  grave.  This  sudden  and  unexpecttc; 
charge  frightened  tlieir  victim;  but  with  .1 
look  of  innocence  he  exclaimed,  "  I  know 
nothing  of  the  matter."  This  was  no  soonc: 
said  than  he  was  rudely  seized  by  Mr.  Keyt  ^ 
and  plunged  headforemost  into  the  pool,  ami 
after  some  seconds  withdrawn.  Being  again 
interrogated,  and  assured  that  if  the  monev 
were  restored,  no  legal  proceedings  would  t;c 
instituted,  he  again  protested  his  innocence, 
and  was  a  second  time  plunged  in,  held  under 
several  moments  and  again  withdrawn,  but 
this  time  insensible,  and  for  one  or  two  min- 
utes it  was  doubtful  whether  their  threats  had 
not  been  executed ;  but  he  soon  evinced  signs 
of  life,  and  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to 
sit  u|)  and  speak.  I'erhajjs  nothing  but  the 
certain  knowledge  of  his  guilt,  which  they 
possessed,  would  have  induced  them  to  pro- 
ceed further;  but  tiiey  were  men  of  firinness. 
and  resolved  to  exhaust  their  resource  of  ex- 
jtedients,  rightly  judging  that  a  guilty  con- 
science could  not  long  hold  out  against  the 
prospect  of  speedy  death.  He  was  accord- 
ingly addressed  by  Mr.  Keyes  in  tones  and 
emphasis  of  sober  earnest,  and  exhorted  for 
the  last  time  to  save  himself  from  being  hur- 
ried before  the  tribunal  of  Heaven,  laden  with 
guilt — to  disclose  at  once.  In  feeble  tones  he 
re-asserted  his  innocence,  and  was  again  col- 
lared and  plunged  in,  but  this  time  his  body 
only  was  immersed.  It  had  been  agreed  in 
his  hearing,  that  Fairbanks  (being  without  a 
family)  should  remain  to  accomplish  the 
work,  by  treading  him  into  the  bottom  of  the 
slough,  while  Keyes  was  to  retire,  so  that 
neither  could  l)e  a  witness  of  murder  if  appre- 
hended; and  that  on  a  given  day  they  were  to 
meet  in  Kingston.  Keyes  paid  over  about 
$90  to  bear  cxjienses  of  travel,  and  was  about 
to  leave,  when  the  wretched  man,  seeing 
these  serious  arrangements,  and  at  length  be- 
lieving them  to  be  an  awful  reality,  exclaimed, 
"I'll  tell  you  all  about   it!"     Upon  this,  he 


THE  WHITTLESEY  All\-UR. 


139 


mark,  they 
bery.  gav<. 

I  tuld  iiiii. 
the  local. 

ill!    shoilhi 

incxpecteii 

lut    with    .1 

" I   know 

no  soonc: 
Mr.   Keyt^ 
s  pool,  and 
ieing  again 
the   money 
s  would  ht 
innocence, 
held  under 
irawn,  but 
r  two  min 
hreats  had 
inced  sign> 
be  able  tn 
ig  but  the 
vhich   they 
ni   to  pro- 
f  firmness, 
irce  of  ex- 
juilty  con- 
igainst   the 
as  accord- 
tones  and 
horted  for 
l)eing   hiir- 
laden  with 
lie  tones  he 
again   col- 
:   his  body 

agreed  in 
without  a 
iplish  the 
:om  of  the 
e,  so  that 
r  if  apprc- 
ey  were  to 
ver  about 
was  about 
in,  seeing 
length  be- 
;xclaimed, 
>n   this,  he 


A.is  withdrawn,  and  when  a  little  recovered, 
lie  confessed,  that  all  but  about  $9,000  (which 
he  now,  for  the  first  time,  stated  to  have  been 
stolen  at  Schenectady),  would  be  found  either 
under  a  hearth  at  his  house,  or  quilted  into  a 
ji.ur  of  drawers  in  his  wife's  possession.  Mr. 
Keyes,  leaving  his  prisoner  in  charge  of  his 
•issoriate,  started  for  the  house,  and  was  seen 
V)y  his  wife,  coming  across  the  fields,  covered 


Hutchinson  and  John  M.  Canfield,  the  facts, 
and  with  thetn  repaired  to  the  house  of  Whit- 
tlesey. Seeing  them  approach,  Mrs.  Whittle- 
sey fled  to  her  chamber,  and  on  their  knocking 
for  admission,  slie  replied  that  she  was  chang- 
ing her  dress,  and  would  meet  them  shortly. 
As  it  was  not  the  time  or  place  for  the  observ- 
ance of  eti<|uette,  Mr.  Keyes  rudely  burst 
open  the  door,  and  entering,  found  her  reclin- 


TUF.    "HON    XOVAGF.  "    KNTERINC,    AI.KXAN'DRIA    IIAV. 


with  mud,  and,  to  use  the  words  of  the  latter, 
"looking  like  a  murderer;  "  and  although  in 
feeble  health,  and  scarcely  able  to  walk,  she 
met  him  at  the  door,  and  inquired  with  alarm, 
"  What  have  you  been  doing?"  He  briefly 
re|)licd,  "We  have  had  the  old  fellow  under 
water,  and  made  him  own  where  the  money 
is;"  and  hastily  proceeding  to  the  village,  re- 
lated in  a  few  words  to  his  friends.  Dr.  Paul 


ing  on  the  l)ed.  Disregarding  her  expostula- 
tions of  impropriety,  he  rudely  proceeded  to 
search,  and  soon  found  between  the  straw  and 
feather  bed,  upon  which  she  lay,  a  quilted 
garment,  when  she  exclaimed  :  "  You've  got 
it  !  My  God,  have  I  come  to  this  ? "  The 
drawers  bore  the  initials  of  Col.  Tuttle,  who 
had  died  in  that  house,  under  very  suspicious 
circumstances ;    were   fitted  with  two  sets  of 


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A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


buttons,  for  either  the  husband  or  wife  to 
wear,  and  contained  about  thirty  parcels  of 

bills,  labelled,  "  For  my  dear  son  C ,  250 

of  5;  "  "  For  my  dear  daughter  E ,  150  of 

3,"  etc.,  amounting  to  $15,000  to  her  five 
children;  the  remainder  being  reserved  for 
her  own  use.  The  garment  also  contained  a 
most  extraordinary  document,  which  might  be 
called  Her  Will,  and  about  which  she  ex- 
pressed the  most  urgent  solicitude,  implor- 
ing, "  That  you  have  children  as  well  as 
me  ! "  It  was  soon  after  published  in  the 
papers,  and  was  as  follows: 

"  It  is  my  l.-ist.ind  dying  request,  th.it  my  children 
shall  h.ive  all  the  money  that  is  contained  in  the 
papers  which  have  their  names  on,  which  is  $3,000 
for  each:  and  let  there  be  pains  and  caution,  and  a 
great  length  of  time  taken  to  exchange  it  in.  (iod 
and  my  own  heart  knows  the  misery  I  have  suffered 
in  consequence  of  it,  and  that  it  was  much  against 
my  will  that  it  should  be  done.  I  have  put  all  that 
is  in  the  same  bank  by  it,  that  I  had  from  prudence, 
and  a  great  number  of  years  been  gathering  up;  and 
when  I  used  to  meet  with  a  bill  on  that  bank  in  your 
possession,  or  when  I  could,  I  used  to  exchange 
others  for  them,  as  I  supposed  it  was  the  best,  and 
would  be  the  most  permament  bank.  You  know 
the  reason  of  your  taking  this  was,  that  we  supposed 
that  from  the  lock  of  the  small  trunk  being  broken, 
and  the  large  one  being  all  loose,  and  the  nails  out, 
that  we  were  robbed  on  the  road  of  $8,700.  You 
know  that  I  always  told  you,  that  I  believed  it  was 
done  in  the  yard,  where  you,  as  I  tolti  /ou  then,  put 
the  wagon  imprudently  in  Schenectady.  Oh!  how 
much  misery  am  I  born  to  see,  through  all  your  im- 
proper conduct,  which  I  am  forced  to  conceal  from  the 
view  of  the  world,  for  the  sake  of  niy  beloved  off- 
springs' credit,  and  whereby  I  have  got  enemies  un- 
deservedly, while  the  public  opinion  was  in  your  favor! 
But  it  fully  evinces  what  false  judgments  the  world 
m.ikes.  Oh  !  the  God  who  tries  the  hearts,  and 
searches  the  veins  of  the  children  of  men,  knows 
that  the  kind  of  misery  which  I  have  suffered,  and 
which  has  riled  and  soured  my  temper,  and  has 
made  me  appear  cross  and  morose  to  the  public  eye, 
has  all  proceeded  from  you.  and  fixed  in  my  counten- 
ance the  mark  of  an  ill-natured  disposition,  which 
was  naturally  formed  for  loves,  friendships,  and 
other  refined  sensations.  How  have  I  falsified  the 
truth,  that  you  miy;ht  appear  to  every  advantage,  at 
the  risk  and  ill-opinion  of  the  sensible  world  towards 
myself,  when  my  conscience  was  telling  me  I  was 
doing  wrong;  and  which,  with  everything  else  that 
I  have  suffered  since  I  have  been  a  married  woman, 
has  worn  me  down  and  kept  me  out  of  health;  and 


now,  oh!  now,  this  last  act  is  bringing  me  to  my 
grave  f^ist.  I  consented  because  you  had  placed  me 
in  the  situation  you  did.  In  the  first  place  you  were 
delinquent  in  the  payment  to  the  government  of 
eighteen  or  nineteen  hundred  dollars.  Then  this  al- 
most .$9,000  missing,  I  found  when  you  came  to 
settle,  that  you  never  could  make  it  good  without 
sacrificing  me  and  my  children,  was  the  reason  I 
consented  to  the  proposal.  I  did  you  the  justice  to 
believe  that  the  last  sum  had  not  been  missing,  th;it 
you  would  not  have  done  as  you  did-  but  I  am 
miserable!  God  grant  that  my  dear  children  mav 
never  fall  into  the  like  error  that  their  father  has, 
and  their  poor  unfortunate  mother  consented  to  ! 
M.ay  the  Almighty  forgive  us  both,  for  I  freely  for- 
give you  all  you  have  made  me  suffer." 

The  money  being  counted,  and  to  their 
surprise  found  to  embrace  a  part  of  the  sum 
supposed  to  be  stolen,  Mr.  Keyes  went  back 
to  release  Whittlesey.  The  latter,  meanwhile, 
had  related  the  circumstances  of  the  robbery, 
and  anxiously  inquired  whether,  if  the  whole 
was  not  found,  they  would  still  execute  their 
purpose;  to  which  Mr.  Fairbanks  replied  in 
a  manner  truly  characteristic,  "  that  will  de- 
pend on'  circumstances."  No  one  was  more 
surprised  than  Whittlesey  himself,  to  learn 
that  most  of  the  money  was  found,  and  that 
he  had  been  robbed  at  Schenectady  by  his 
ow.i  wife.  He  begged  hard  to  be  released  on 
the  spot,  but  it  was  feared  he  would  commit 
suicide,  and  he  was  told  that  he  must  be  de- 
livered up  to  the  public  as  sound  as  he  was 
taken,  and  was  led  home.  The  fame  of  this 
discovery  soon  spread,  and  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty the  villagers  were  restrained  from  evinc- 
ing their  joy  by  the  discharge  of  cannon. 
Mr.  Whittlesey  was  led  home  and  placed 
with  a  guard  in  the  room  with  his  wife,  until 
further  search ;  and  here  the  most  bitter 
criminations  were  exchanged,  each  charging 
the  other  with  the  crime,  and  the  wife  up- 
braiding the  husband  with  cowardice  for  re- 
vealing the  secret.  The  guard  being  with- 
drawn in  the  confusion  that  ensued,  Mrs. 
Whittlesey  passed  from  the  house,  and  was 
seen  by  a  ])erson  at  a  distance  to  cross  the 
cemetery  of  Trinity  church,  where,  on  pass- 
ing the  grave  of  a  son,  she  paur  d,  faltered 
and  fell  back,  overwhelmed  with  awful 
emotion  ;  but  a  moment  after,  gathering  new 


ene 

higl 
the 
the 
recc 


THE   WHITTLESEY  AFFAIR. 


141 


ig  me  to  my 
id  placed  me 
ace  you  were 
ivernmcnt  of 
Then  thisal- 
|fOu  came  to 
food  witlioiit 
the  reason  1 
the  justice  to 
missing,  tliat 
d-  but  I  am 
;hildren  may 
r  father  has, 
onsented  to  ! 
I  freely  for- 

nd   to   their 

of  the  sum 

5  went  back 

meanwhile, 

;he  robbery, 

f  the  whole 

ceciite  their 

5  rephed  in 

lat  will  de- 

e  was  more 

If,   to   learn 

d,  and  that 

tady  by  his 

released  on 

Id  commit 

lust  be  de- 

as  he  was 

ime  of  this 

with  diffi- 

Tom  evinc- 

5f   cannon. 

nd    placed 

wife,  until 

lost    bitter 

1   charging 

e  wife   up- 

ce   for  re- 

eing  with- 

ued,    Mrs. 

?,  and  was 

cross  the 

on  pass- 

d,  faltered 

ith     awful 

ering  new 


energy,  she  hastened  on,  rushed  down  the 
high  bank  near  the  ice-cave,  and  plunged  into 
the  river.  Her  body  was  found  floating  near 
the  lower  bridge,  and  efforts  were  made  to 
recover  life,  but  it  was  extinct. 

The  sympathies  of  the  public  were  not 
withheld  from  the  children  of  this  family, 
who  were  thus  cast  penniless  and  disgraced 
upon  the  world.  Many  details  connected 
with  the  affair  we  have  not  given  ;  among 
which  were  several  attempts  to  throw  sus- 
picion upon  several  parties  by  depositing 
money  on  their  premises,  writing  anonymous 
letters,  etc.;  which  served  but  to  aggravate 
the  crime  by  betraying  the  existence  of  a  de- 
pravity on  the  part  of  the  chief  contriver  in 
the  scheme,  which  has  seldom  or  never  been 
equaled.  The  marked  bills  amounting  to 
$400  had  been  dropped  on  the  road  to  Sack- 
ets  Harbor,  and  were  found  by  Mr.  Gale,  who 
prudently  carried  them  to  a  witness,  counted 
and  sealed  them  and  after  the  disclosure 
brought  them  forward.  Mr,  Whittlesey 
stated  that  he  expected  some  one  would  find 
and  use  the  money,  when  he  could  swear  to 
the  marks,  and  implicate  the  finder.  Mr. 
Gale,  upon  hearing  this,  was  affected  to  tears, 
and  exclaimed:  "  Mr.  Whittlesey,  is  it  pos- 
sible you  would  have  been  so  wicked  as  to 
have  sworn  me  to  State  Prison  for  being 
honest !  " 

Mr.  Whittlesey  remained  in  Watertown 
nearly  a  year,  and  then  moved  to  Indiana, 
where  he  afterwards  became  a  justice  of  the 
peace  and  a  county  judge,  and  by  an  exem- 
plary life  won  the  respect  of  the  community; 
and  although  the  details  of  this  affair  followed 


him,  yet  the  censure  of  opinion  rested  upon 
the  wife. 

Congress,  on  the  nth  of  January,  182 1, 
passed  an  act  directing  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  to  cancel  and  surrender  the  bond 
given  by  Whittlesey  and  endorsed  by  Fair- 
banks and  Keyes,  on  condition  of  the  latter 
giving  another,  payable  witli  interest  in  two 
years,  for  the  balance  remaining  unaccounted 
for  —  thus  virtually  closing  up  a  business 
arrangement  which  had  been  a  continued 
occasion  for  anxiety  and  trouble  to  them 
through  successive  years. 

In  speaking  of  the  Whittlesey  matter,  to 
the  author  of  this  History,  Mr.  Fairbanks 
said : 

Before  we  executed  our  plan  we  had  positive  evi- 
dence of  his  knowledge  of  the  transaction  and  of 
his  guilt;  and,  on  the  strength  of  that,  we  did  not 
expect  to  proceed  to  extremities  further  than  to 
frighten  him  until  he  informed  us  where  the  money 
was  secreted.  But  his  stubborness  held  out  much 
longer  than  we  supposed  it  would  or  could.  When 
we  put  the  evidence  of  his  guilt  before  him  in  such 
a  plain  manner  his  looks  were  evidence  of  it.  We 
informed  him  that  there  was  no  doubt  about  it,  and 
I  believe  that  there  is  not  one  case  in  a  thousand 
where  evidence  was  so  palpable  as  in  this  case.  But 
Lynch  Law  is  a  dangerous  one.  and  I  would  not  ad- 
vise it.  But  with  other  guilty  parties  who  have 
stolen  from  me  and  been  detected,  I  believe  I  have 
used  more  mild  and  lenient  measures.  I  have  prob- 
ably caught  twenty  persons  pilfering  from  me,  and  I 
have  always  made  them  give  me  a  confession  in 
writing,  and  then  promised  them,  that  as  they  had 
relatives  who  would  be  disgraced  by  their  conduct, 
I  would  keep  it  a  profound  secret  until  they  commit- 
ted the  crime  again,  when  I  would  prosecute  them, 
I  found  this  plan  the  surest  method  of  reforming 
them. 


^M 


THE  "PATRIOT"  WAR. 


COPIED    FROM    haddock's    HISTORY    OK    JEFFERSON    COUNTY,    N.    Y. 


|URING  the  fall  of  1837  there  occurred  one 
of  the  most  curious,  and  what  would  now 
be  classed  as  inexcusable  and  i.isane,  episodes 
that  Jefferson  county  and  the  whole  northern 
frontier  had  ever  witnessed  —  nothing  more 
nor  less  than  a  popular  effort  on  the  part  of 
American  citizens  to  overthrow  the  govern- 
ment of  Canada  by  an  unwarranted  invasion 
of  the  frontier  towns,  expecting  to  arouse  the 
people  to  immediate  participation  in  the  re- 
bellious effort  as  soon  as  a  stand  should  have 
been  made.  Ridiculous  as  this  affair  appears 
at  this  day,  it  was  a  popular  and  an  enthu- 
siastic effort  at  the  time,  drawing  into  its 
service  many  educated  and  apparently  level- 
headed men,  and  meeting  with  an  amount  of 
smypathy  in  Northern  New  York  that  was 
really  astonishing. 

There  had  been  for  some  time  considerable 
discontent  in  Canada,  some  claiming  that 
they  were  virtually  shut  out  from  proper 
participation  in  the  government,  and  their 
repeated  efforts  to  obtain  better  legislation  had 
been  disregarded.  This  discontent  was  more 
pronounced  in  the  Lower  Province,  where 
the  French  Canadians  had  great  influence,  and 
had  never  in  their  hearts  yielded  a  loyal  sup- 
port to  the  English  rule  over  a  country  which 
had  once  belonged  to  Franct.  It  was  said  at 
the  time  that  the  charges  made  by  the  Cana- 
dians against  their  rulers  were  greater  than 
the  causes  that  separated  the  American  colo- 
nies from  the  English.  The  Reform  party  in 
Parliament  of  the  Upper  Province  was  led  by 
William  Lyon  McKenzie.  and  Papenau  was 
the  leader  in  the  Lower  Province.     The  Home 


Government  sustained  all  the  alleged  oppres- 
sive acts  of  the  local  government.  The  Re- 
form party  refused  to  vote  supplies  for  the 
support  of  the  government,  and  the  Parlia- 
ments were  dissolved.  The  excitement  had 
become  great  all  through  the  provinces,  ex- 
tending to  the  frontiers  on  this  side.  The 
parliament  buildings  at  Montreal  were  burned. 
The  first  collision  between  the  Reform  parties 
and  the  Tories,  in  the  Upper  Province,  was 
on  Yonge  street,  Toronto,  where  several  were 
killed.  The  feeling  now  became  very  intense. 
The  reform  party  contained  many  determined 
and  resolute  men,  but  they  desired  relief  from 
British  oppression  through  peaceful  means. 
They  had  never  contemplated  a  resort  to  arms, 
but  the  feeling  in  both  provinces  was  aroused 
to  such  an  extent  that  it  could  not  be  peace- 
ably controlled.  The  feeling  for  the  "  relief  " 
of  Canada  seemed  to  pervade  all  classes;  secret 
societies  were  formed  in  the  principal  towns 
on  this  side  as  well  as  many  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  river.  They  wer^  called  Hunter's 
Lodges,  and  had  signs  and  pass-words  by 
which  they  could  recognize  each  other. 

In  the  summer  of  1837,  William  Lyon  Mc- 
Kenzie and  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer,  with  300 
men,  established  themselves  on  Navy  Island  in 
Canadian  waters,  between  Chippewa  and 
Grand  Island,  in  the  Niagara  river.  Rein- 
forcements came  to  Navy  Island  from  the 
American  side.  The  little  steamer  "  Caro- 
line "  was  chartered  to  carry  passengers  and 
freight  to  the  island  from  Buffalo.  On  the 
night  of  November  29,  1837,  while  this 
steamer  was  moored  at   Schlosser's    wharf,  a 


THE  "PATRIOT"  WAR. 


143 


;ged  oppres- 
The  Re- 
)lies  for  the 
the  Parlia- 
itement  had 
"ovinres,  ex- 
side.  Tile 
vere  burned. 
;form  parties 
rovince,  was 
several  were 
very  intense. 
'  determined 
i  relief  from 
efiil  means, 
sort  to  arms, 
was  aroused 
)t  be  peace- 
the  "  relief  " 
asses;  secret 
cipal  towns 
e  Canadian 
ed  Hunter's 
5s-words  by 
other. 

ri  Lyon  Mc- 
T,  with  3CO 
vy  Island  in 
ippewa  and 
iver.  Rein- 
d  froni  the 
Tier  *'  Caro- 
isengers  and 
lo.  On  the 
while  this 
r's    wharf,  a 


captain  in  the  English  army  with  a  company 
of  British  soldiers,  boarded  her  and  set  her  on 
fire,  and  cutting  the  boat  loose,  sent  her  adrift 
.)ver  Niagara  Falls.  One  Captain  Alexander 
McLeod,  while  on  a  debauch  at  Niagara, 
made  his  boast  that  he  was  one  of  the  gang 
that  burned  the  Caroline.  He  was  arrested 
tor  the  murder  of  Durfee.  His  trial  was  com- 
menced at  Canandaigua,  but  it  was  considered 
unsafe  and  he  was  removed  to  Utica.  His 
defense  was  that  he  acted  under  the  authority 
of  the  British  government.  He  proved  an 
alibi  and  was  acquitted,  being  defended  by 
able  Canadian  lawyers.  The  outrage  was 
complained  of  by  Governor  Marcy  to  Martin 
Van  Buren,  then  President  of  the  United 
States,  but  no  demand  on  the  British  govern- 
ment was  fc.er  made.  The  President  issued 
a  proclamation  forbidding  all  persons  from 
aiding  or  assisting,  in  any  way,  the  rebellious 
acts  of  any  people,  or  collection  of  people 
who  interfered  with  the  execution  of  the  laws 
of  a  friendly  nation,  declaring  all  such  persons 
outlaws  and  not  entitled  to  the  protection  of 
the  American  government. 

Great  preparations  were  soon  made  for  an 
attack  upon  Kingston,  while  the  St.  Lawrence 
was  bridged  with  ice-  On  the  night  of  Feb- 
ruary 19,  1838,  the  arsenal  at  Watertown, 
N.  Y.,  was  broken  into  and  400  stand  of  arms 
were  taken.  The  arsenals  at  Batavia  and 
Elizabethtown  were  also  plundered.  On  the 
20th  of  February  patriots  began  to  flock  to 
French  Creek  in  large  numbers  with  a  supply 
of  arms  and  ammunition,  consisting  of  1,000 
stand  of  arms,  twenty  barrels  of  cartridges  and 
a  large  store  of  provisions.  It  was  intensely 
cold,  and  the  men  suffered  from  exposure. 
General  Rensselaer  Van  Rensselaer,  a  son  of 
General  Van  Rensselaer,  of  the  war  of  1812, 
was  to  assume  the  command.  Either  thfrough 
the  cowardice  of  the  officers  or  the  men,  no 
man  saw  Canadian  soil,  and  after  much  talk 
of  bravery  the  men  dispersed  to  their  homes. 
It  was  reported  that  Colonel  Bonnycastle,  at 
the  head  of  1,600  men,  was  coming  from 
Kingston  to  make  an  attack  upon  the  town, 
and  through  fear  and  of  the  loved  ones  at 
home,  the  patriots   scattered   without    much 


ceremony,  leaving  all  their  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion behind.  This  flight  homeward  was  as 
ridiculous  as  their  attempt  was  insane. 
.  On  the  night  of  May  30,  1838,  the  Canadian 
steamer,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  which  was  com- 
manded by  John  B.  Armstrong,  on  her  way 
from  Brockville  to  Toronto,  with  nineteen 
passengers  and  about  ^20,000  in  specie  for 
paying  off  the  troops  in  the  Upper  Province, 
was  taking  on  wood  at  McDonnell's  wharf,  in 
the  southern  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
above  Alexandria  Bay,  when  a  company  of 
men,  led  by  "  Bill  "  Johnston,  the  alleged  hero 
uf  the  Thousand  Islands,  disguised  and  painted 
like  savages,  armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets, 
rushed  on  board,  shouting,  "  Remember  the 
Caroline."  The  night  was  dark  and  rainy. 
The  passengers  (who  were  asleep  in  the  cabin) 
together  with  the  crew  were  ordered  on  shore. 
The  boat  was  then  pushed  out  into  the  river 
and  burned.  The  sunken  hull  can  be  seen 
there  to  this  day.  Heavy  rewards  were 
offered  for  the  apprehension  of  the  offenders 
by  both  governments.  Tv/elve  of  the  band 
were  arrested  and  held  in  the  Watertown  jail 
for  about  six  months.  On  the  2d  of  June, 
Anderson  was  indicted  and  held  for  arson  in 
the  first  degree.  He  was  tried  before  John 
P.  Cushman,  one  of  the  circuit  judges,  and 
defended  by  Calvin  McKnight,  Benjamin 
Wright,  John  Clark  and  Bernard  Bagley. 
After  a  deliberation  of  two  hours  the  jury 
brought  in  a  Verdict  of  "  not  guilty."  After 
a  time  the  others  were  released  on  their  own 
recognizance,  and  were  never  subjected  to  a 
trial. 

William  Johnston  was  born  in  Lower  Canada 
and  became  a  confidential  friend  of  William 
Lyon  McKenzie.  He  became  a  leader  in  the 
Reform  party,  and  afterwards  removed  to 
French  Creek.  He  was  a  man  of  great  ener^, 
but  bore  a  bad  reputation.  Johnston  was  now 
considered  the  patriotic  commander,  and  a 
band  under  his  command  fortified  themselves 
on  one  of  the  islands  within  the  Jefferson 
county  line.  His  daughter,  Kate  Johnston, 
held  communication  with  them  and  furnished 
them  with  provisions  and  supplies.  It  was  at 
this  time  that  Johnston  published  the  following 


144 


A    SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


curious  manifesto  —  which  is,  so  far  as  the 
writer  knows,  the  only  instance  in  which  an 
outhiw  had  the  "  cheek  "  to  declare  war  from 
his  place  of  hiding  against  a  friendly  nation: 

"  I,  William  Johnston,  a  natural  born  citizen  of 
Upper  Canada,  do  hereby  declare  that  I  hold  a  com- 
mission in  the  Patriot  service  as  commander-in-chief 
of  the  naval  forces  and  tiotilla.  I  commanded  the 
expedition  that  captured  and  destroyed  the  Sii' 
Robert  Peel.  The  men  under  my  command  in  that 
expcdi  ion  were  nearly  all  natural  born  English  sub- 
jects. The  exceptions  were  volunteers.  My  head- 
quarters are  on  an  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  without 
the  line  of  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  at  a 
place  named  by  me  Fort  Wallace.  I  am  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  boundary  line  and  know  which 
of  the  islands  do,  and  which  do  not,  belong  to  the 
United  States.  Before  I  located  my  headquarters  I 
referred  to  the  decisions  of  the  commissioner  made 
at  Utica,  under  the  sixth  article  of  the  treaty  of 
Ghent.  I  know  the  number  of  the  island  and  know 
that  by  the  division  of  the  commissions  it  is  British 
territory.  I  yet  hold  possession  of  the  station  and 
act  under  orders.  The  object  of  my  movement  is 
the  independence  of  the  Canadas.  I  am  not  at  war 
with  the  commerce  or  property  of  the  United  States. 

"  Signed  this  loth  day  of  June  in  the  year  of  our 
Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  thirty-eight. 
"  WILLIAM  JOHNSTON." 

The  effect  of   this  manifesto  was  quite   im- 
portant, as  it  was  distributed  through  all  the 
provinces  and  in  all  parts  of  the  frontier  States. 
The  excitement  along  the  frontiers  grew  more 
intense.       Sir   Allan    McNab,  the    governor- 
^      general,  fearing  for  tlie  safety  of  his  life,  had 
.'y-  y      "      resigned,  and  in  returning  to  England  ])assed 
through    Watertown    disguised    as  a  laborer. 
He  was  recognized  by  Jason  Fairbanks  while 
C'i    '-  //J?   sitting  on  a  wheelbarrow  in  front  of  Gilson's 
^    \        (    tavern,  waiting  for  the  stage  for  Utica.    Being 
advised  by  some  of   the  leading  men  that  he 
need  have  no  fear  of    danger  while  travelling 
^    througli   the   States,  he   changed   his  disguise 
and  assumed  his  former  dignity.      Lord  Dur- 
ham succeeded  him  as  governor-general.    The 
secret  lodges  were  now  making  large  additions 
to   their    membership.     It    had  now  become 
evident   that  a  stand  was  to  be   made  some- 
where for  the  threatened  invasion. 

On  the  loth  of  November,  two  schooners, 
the  "  Charlotte,"  of  Oswego,  and  the  "  Isa- 
belle,"  of  Toronto,  left  Oswego  with  arms  and 


ammunition  and  about  300  men  for  some 
Canadian  point  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  Tiic 
steamer  "  United  States  "  left  Oswego  on  the 
following  morning  for  the  same  destination, 
touching  at  Sackets  Harbor  and  taking  on 
board  about  100  men,  besides  arms  and  am- 
munition. Ti'.e  schooners  had  proceeded  ;is 
far  as  Millen's  Bay,  below  Cape  Vincent,  and 
the  steamer  "  United  States"  coming  up  took 
them  in  tow,  one  on  each  side.  There  were 
now  about  500  men  on  board  the  boat,  all 
young,  destined  for  some  point  known  to  but 
very  few,  if  any,  except  the  officers.  They 
were  fully  officered,  Gen.  J.  Ward  Birge  hold- 
ing the  appointment  of  commander-in-chief. 
He  was  very  sanguine,  but  his  subsequent 
acts  made  him  conspicuous  as  a  coward. 
These  vessels  being  well  supplied  with  field 
pieces,  small  arms,  ammunition  and  provisions, 
started  on  the  morning  of  the  i/th  of  Novem- 
ber, down  the  river.  When  passing  Alexan- 
dria Bay,  Charles  Crossmon,  one  of  these 
"  patriots,"  then  a  young  man  of  twenty  years, 
full  of  patriotic  impulses,  little  thought  that 
one  day  at  this  jioint  a  beautiful  tourist  home 
should  bear  his  name. 

The    boats   swept    down    the    river    until 
abreast    of    Prescott.       At    that     point    the  , 
schooners  were  detached,  and  dropped  down 
to  Windmill  Point,  about  a  mile  below  the  city, 
where  stood  an  abandoned  windmill. 

In  trying  to  land,  the  schooners  ran  aground, 
one  near  the  point  and  the  other  farther  down 
the  river.  About  250  men  landed  from  the 
schooners,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  guns 
and  ammunition,  together  with  one  twelve 
pounder  and  two  brass  seven  pounders  were 
brought  down.  They  then  took  possession  of 
the  windmill,  which  they  held  with  three 
other  stone  buildings.  The  schooners,  after 
getting  afloat  with  the  balance  of  the  men  and 
ammunition,  sailed  for  Ogdensburg.  This 
looked  rather  discouraging  to  the  men  in  the 
windmill,  to  see  thcFe  schooners  leave  them 
with  many  of  their  men  and  nearly  all  of 
their  provisions  and  ammunition.  Colonel 
Worth  and  the  United  States  Marshal,  Gar- 
ron,  afterwards  seized  the  vessels  and  all  of 
their  cargoes.     Prospects  began  to  darken  for 


THE  "PATRIOT"  WAR. 


145 


n  for  some 
■ence.  Tlic 
kveji;o  on  the 
destination, 
taking  on 
IS  and  aiii 
roceeded  ;is 
''incent,  and 
ing  up  took 
Tliere  were 
he  boat,  all 
lown  to  but 
;ers.     They 

Birge  hold- 
ler-in-chief. 
subsequent 

a  coward. 
1  with  field 

provisions, 

of  Noveni- 
ng  Alexan- 
;  of  these 
k'enty  years, 
lought  that 
)urist  home 

river  until 
point  the 
ped  down 

)w  the  city, 

n  aground, 

ther  down 

from   the 

the  guns 

ne  twelve 

iders  were 

^session  of 

nth    three 

ners,  after 

L'  men  and 

rg.      This 

nen  in  the 

ave  them 

rly    all  of 

Colonel 

hal.   Gar- 

ind   all  of 

arken  for 


the  Patriots.  They  were  deserted  by  nearly 
all  of  their  ofificers.  General  Birge  wilted  at 
the  first  chance  of  facing  British  bullets.  It 
happened  that  among  the  Patriot  band  was  a 
Polish  exile,  Niles  Sobelitcki  Von  Schoultz, 
who  came  from  Salina.  He  was  of  noble  birth, 
his  father  being  an  officer  of  high  rank,  and 
he  himself  had  been  an  officer  in  the  Polish 
service.  He  had  been  deluded  into  the  pro- 
ject of  freeing  Canada  from  "tyranny  and 


river.  They  landed  at  Prescott.  It  was  now 
evident  that  some  fighting  was  to  be  done. 
Von  Schoultz  gave  great  encouragement  to 
his  men,  advising  them  to  brave  the  British 
bullets  and  stand  by  each  other  to  the  last 
man.  They  agreed  to  follow  wherever  he 
should  lead. 

The  British  steamers  were  now  patroling 
the  river,  and  occasionally  firing  shots  at  the 
wind-mill.     One  shot  was  fired  at  the  steamer 


V.  ■  _.■, 

':■"'"* 

k 

m 

Pi  .. 

A 

■: 

^ 

\ 

%. 

k| 

^--- — "^'l 

-i 

— ""^  1 

_/,•„  .                    I 

-*^ 

__-! 

.M^^                '" '"            \\ 

^^^ 

r*T"~ 

r'^""!^ 

f 

^wk......  .-ij- 

^pi"':. 

^^^: 

,  3 

^sm'-;S^^^sa^ 

^K 

l*:;--'.^ 

r    Miifr     »>.-.x.i-    .        -  ^■ 

BAT-WING   SAIL. 


•oppression."  In  the  emergency  he  was  now 
placed  in  command.  It  had  all  along  been 
understood  that  as  soon  as  a  stand  was  made 
by  any  Patriot  force,  the  Canadians  would 
tlock  to  their  standard.  In  this  they  now 
found  themselves  grossly  deceived ;  not  a 
single  man  came  to  their  relief.  They  were 
looked  upon  as  brigands  and  robbers.  On  the 
morning  of  the  i8th,  three  Canadian  steam- 
boats, the  "  Coburg,"  the  *'  Experiment  "  and 
the  "  Traveller,"  with  about  400  regular  troops 
from  Kingston,  were  seen  coming  down  the 


"United  States"  while  in  American  waters 
passing  through  her  wheel  house,  killing  the 
man  at  the  wheel.  The  British  troops,  under 
Colonel  Dundas,  came  marching  from  Pres- 
cott to  annihilate  the  Patriots.  Von  Schoultz 
marched  his  men  out  of  the  building  into  the 
field.  They  formed  in  line  behind  a  stone 
fence,  which  they  used  as  a  breast-work. 
The  British  commenced  firing  when  about 
150  yards  away,  and  continued  their  firing  as 
they  advanced,  without  doing  any  injury. 
The   "  Patriots "   held    their   fire   until    the 


14^) 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


enemy  had  advanced  to  wiiliiii  fifteen  rods, 
and  then  they  got  the  order  to  fire.  This 
broad-side  resulted  in  killing  thirty-six  British 
soldiers,  and  wounding  many  others.  The 
British  fell  back,  but  the  firing  continued  on 
both  sides.  This  was  followed  by  the  with- 
drawal of  the  "Patriots"  —  some  into  the 
wind-mill,  and  others  occupying  the  outhouses, 
but  continuing  their  fire  at  long  range.  The 
cannon  shots  aimed  at  the  mill  glanced  off 
and  produced  no  effect  upon  the  walls.  The 
battle  raged  three  hours  and  twenty  minutes, 
during  which  time  six  of  the  Patriots  had  been 
killed,  and  twenty-one  wounded.  It  was  esti- 
mated that  seventy-five  of  t'ne  British  lay  dead 
upon  the  field,  and  150  were  wounded. 
Colonel  Dundas  now  sent  a  flag  of  truce,  ask- 
ing a  cessation  of  hostilities  for  an  hour,  that 
he  might  remove  his  dead  and  wounded,  which 
was  cheerfully  granted  by  Von  Schoultz. 

The  strife  was  watched  with  intense  interest 
by  a  large  crowd  of  people  at  Ogdensburg, 
directly  opposite.  The  river  now  being  clear, 
Hon.  Preston  King,  with  a  few  volunteers, 
chartered  the  "  Paul  Pry  "  to  go  over  and  get 
the  Patriots  away  from  the  wind-mill.  This 
was  done  probably  by  consent  of  the  British 
forces.  The  boat  went  over,  but  only  a  few 
of  the  men  chose  to  leave.  Jonah  Woodruff, 
the  artist,  afterwards  the  sleeping-car  inventor 
and  proprietor,  was  one  of  those  who  came 
away  on  the  "  Paul  Pry."  As  time  was  prec- 
ious, the  night  dark  and  the  limit  of  the  truce 
uncertain,  the  men  in  the  mill  irresolute  and 
under  poor  military  subjection,  Mr.  King  and 
his  party  were  forced  to  leave  with  but  few, 
when  all  could  have  been  saved. 

About  10  o'clock  on  the  third  day  the 
British  regulars,  reinforced  with  about  1,000 
militia,  came  bearing  down  upon  this  almost 
defenseless  band  in  the  old  mill.  They  had 
but  little  ammunition  left,  but  they  resolved 
to  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible.  The 
troops  continued  firing  their  cannon  and  vol- 
leys of  musket  balls,  however,  without  peril- 
ous effect.  At  length  Von  Schoultz  ordered 
a  cannon  loaded  with  musket  balls,  spikes  and 
pieces  of  iron  placed  in  the  door  of  the  mill, 
and   at   an   opportune    moment    it    was   dis- 


charged, killing  twenty-five  of  the  British  and 
wounding  as  many  more.  This  threw  thtm 
into  confusion,  and  they  retreated. 

At  length  Von  Schoultz  saw  that  his  men 
could  not  stand  another  charge,  and,  with 
much  reluctance,  sent  out  a  flag  of  truce,  the 
bearers  of  which  were  immediately  taken  pris- 
oners. They  then  displayed  a  white  flag  from 
the  top  of  the  mill,  but  no  notice  was  taken  of 
it.  Towards  night  Colonel  Dundas  sent  out 
a  flag  demanding  a  surrender  of  the  men  at 
his  discretion.  Von  Schoultz  offered  to  sur- 
render as  prisoners  of  war,  but  Colonel  Dun- 
das would  grant  no  conditions.  Finally  the 
little  band,  finding  opposition  hopeless,  gave 
themselves  up  without  terms  into  the  hands  of 
the  British  commander. 

Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  foolish  and  ill- 
conceived  expeditions  that  was  ever  under- 
taken. Nineteen  of  the  patriots  were  killed, 
thirty-five  were  wounded  and  about  190  were 
taken  prisoners.  The  latter  were  placed  on 
board  the  steamers  and  taken  to  Kingston, 
where  they  were  confined  in  Fort  Henry.  It 
was  estimated  that  about  125  of  the  British 
were  killed  and  200  wounded. 

The  prisoners  were  confined  in  squads  of 
fifteen  'to  twenty  in  small  rooms  in  the  fort, 
and  placed  under  a  strong  guard.  Sir  George 
Arthur  had  decided  that  they  were  brigands 
and  must  be  tried  by  a  court  martial,  to  be 
composed  of  seven  field  officers  and  seven 
captains  of  the  line. 

The  serious  condition  of  these  prisoners 
excited  the  sympathy  of  the  people  of  Jeffer- 
son county  as  well  as  of  their  friends,  and 
meetings  were  held  in  all  the  towns  under 
great  excitement,  petitions  being  circulated 
far  and  wide  and  extensively  signed.  These 
were  presented  to  Sir  George  Arthur,  the 
governor-general,  asking  clemency  for  these 
poor  deluded  victims.  The  best  legal  talent 
in  the  State  volunteered  their  aid  in  defence 
of  the  prisoners,  and  in  mitigation  of  their 
condition.  William  H.  Seward,  Philo  Grid- 
ley,  Hiram  Denio,  Joshua  A.  Spencer,  Bernard 
Bagley  and  George  C.  Sherman,  all  united  and 
used  their  best  efforts  in  appealing  to  the 
governor-general  for  clemency. 


THE  "PATRIOT"  WAR. 


U7 


;  British  and 
threw  them 

I. 

hat  his  iiK-n 
s,  and,  with 
of  truce,  I  lie 
y  taken  \\\u- 
lite  flag  from 
was  taken  of 
idas  sent  out 
the  men  it 
'ered  to  siir- 
'olonel  Dun- 
Finally  the 
opeless.  gave 
the  hands  of 

olish  and  ill- 
ever  under- 
were  killed, 
out  190  were 
:e  placed  on 
to  Kingston, 
t  Henry.  It 
f  the  British 

in  squads  of 
in  the  fort, 
Sir  George 
ere  brigands 
nartial,  to  he 
s  and  seven 

se  prisoners 
pie  of  JefTer- 
friends,  and 
towns  under 
g  circulated 
;ned.     These 

Arthur,  the 
cy  for  these 
:  legal  talent 
id  in  defence 
tion  of  their 

Philo  Grid- 
icer,  Bernard 
ill  united  and 
aling   to   the 


The  court  convened  on  the  28th  of  Novem- 
ber; Daniel  George  being  the  first  prisoner  to 
be  tried,  pleaded  not  guilty.  When  he  was 
taken  from  the  steamer,  papers  were  found  in 
his  pockets  commissioning  him  as  paymaster 
of  the  eastern  division  of  the  Patriot  army. 
Von  Schoultz  was  then  brought  before  the 
court  for  trial.  He  employed  the  barrister. 
Sir  John  McDonald,  to  aid  him  in  his  defense. 
He  pleaded  guilty.  He  sent  a  written  appeal 
to  *he  governor-general,  in  which  he  stated 
that  he  was  deluded  into  joining  in  the  inva- 
sion of  Canada  by  the  gross  misrepresenta- 
tions of  such  men  as  J.  Ward  Birge  and  Will- 
iam Lyon  McKenzie,  who  claimed  to  know 
the  sentiment  and  wishes  of  the  people  of 
Canada,  and  that  they  would  be  received  with 
open  arms.  Also,  that  the  militia,  when 
called  out,  would  llock  to  their  standard.  All 
of  which  proved  to  be  a  base  delusion.  He 
asked  for  mercy  at  his  hands.  Every  means 
of  influence  which  could  be  brought  to  bear 
upon  the  governor-general  by  such  men  as 
Judge  Fine,  Silas  Wright  and  a  host  of  others, 
could  not  change  his  determination  of  execut- 
ing all  the  officers  and  leaders. 

Dorephus  Abbey,  a  former  newspaper  editor 
of  Watertown,  was  the  next  to  be  tried.  He 
was  captured  while  carrying  a  flag  of  truce, 
and  was  next  in  rank  to  Von  Schoultz.  Next 
was  Martin  Woodruff.  All  of  these,  after 
trial,  namely  :  Daniel  George,  Nicholas  Von 
Schoultz,  Dorephus  Abbey  and  Martin  Wood- 
ruff were  sentenced  by  Sir  George  Arthur  to 
be  hanged,  and  this  sentence  was  carried  out 
December  8th.  Von  Schoultz  made  his  will, 
giving,  among  his  many  bequests,  ^10,000  for 
the  benefit  of  the  families  of  the  British 
soldiers  who  were  killed  at  the  battle  of  the 
Windmill.  He  also  wrote  the  following  pa- 
thetic and  farewell  letter  to  his  friend,  Warren 
Green,  of  Syracuse : 

"  Dear  Friend. —When  you  get  this  letter,  I  shall 
be  no  more.  I  have  been  informed  that  my  execu- 
tion will  take  place  to-morrow.  May  God  forgive 
them  who  brought  me  to  this  untimely  death.  Hard 
as  my  fate  is,  I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  forgive 
them,  and  do.  I  have  been  promised  a  lawyer  to 
write  my  will  — intend  to  appoint  you  my  executor. 
If  the  British  government  permits  it,  I  wish  my  body 


delivered  to  you  and  buried  uii  yuui  funn.  I  have 
no  time  to  write  more  because  I  have  great  need  of 
communicating  with  my  Creator  to  prepare  myself 
for  His  presence.  The  time  allowed  me  for  this  is 
short.  My  last  wish  to  the  Americans  is,  that  they 
will  not  think  of  avenging  my  death.  Let  no  further 
blood  be  shed.  And  believe  me,  from  what  I  have 
seen,  all  the  stories  which  were  told  of  the  sulFerings 
of  the  Can.^dian  people  were  untrue.  Give  my  love 
to  your  sister,  and  tell  her  that  I  think  of  lier  as  I  do 
of  my  own  mother.  May  God  reward  her  for  her 
kindness.  I  further  beg  of  you  to  take  care  of  W.  J. 
so  that  he  may  find  honorable  bread.  Farewell,  my 
dear  friends.  May  God  bless  you  and  protect  you. 
"December  18, 

"N.  VON  SCHOULTZ." 

Joel  Peeler  and  Sylvanus  Sweet  were  exe- 
cuted, January  11,  1839.  Sylvester  Lawton, 
Duncan  Anderson,  Christopher  Buckley,  Rus- 
sell Phelps  and  Lyman  H.  Lewis  were  sent  to 
the  scaffold,  February  11.  They  were  fol- 
lowed by  Martin  Van  Slyke,  William  O'Neal 
and  James  Cummings.  The  officers  now 
having  all  been  dealt  with,  they  made  quick 
work  trying  the  men  under  them.  The  pris- 
oners were  brought  into  court  in  squads  of 
from  ten  to  fifteen,  and  asked  a  few  questions, 
and  were  then  returned  to  their  quarters. 
They  all  expected  that  their  doom  was  sealed, 
and  were  anxiously  awaiting  their  death  war- 
rants. But  a  powerful  influence  was  brought 
to  bear  upon  Governor-General  Arthur,  and 
he  finally  decided  that  there  would  be  no  more 
executions,  and  went  so  far  as  to  say  that  a 
number  of  them  would  be  pardoned.  The 
court  had  adjourned  from  January  4th  to 
February  26th.  The  prisoners  were  allowed 
to  receive  visits  from  their  friends,  but  under 
close  guard.  On  the  8th  of  April  the  steamer 
"  Commodore  Barry "  arrived  at  Sackets 
Harbor  with  twenty-two  prisoners,  pardoned 
by  the  governor-general.  And  on  the  27th 
of  April,  thirty-seven  more  pardoned  prisoners 
arrived  at  the  same  place.  All  released  were 
under  twenty-one  years  of  age.  The  balance 
of  the  men  remained  in  the  fort  all  summer, 
uncertain  as  to  their  fate,  whether  they  would 
be  pardoned  or  banished.  On  the  17th  of 
September,  1839,  orders  were  given  to  prepare 
for  departure,  and  ninety-five  of  them  were 
heavily  ironed,  placed  in   canal  barges  and 


148 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


taken  to  Montreal,  and  there,  with  another 
lot  of  prisoners,  making  about  150  in  all,  were 
put  on  board  the  ship  "  Huffalu,"  bound  for 
Van  Dieman's  Island. 

February  13,  1840,  after  an  uneventful 
voyage,  they  landed  in  the  harbor  of  Hobart 
Town,  After  the  inspector  had  taken  a  de- 
scription of  them,  the  governor,  Sir  John 
Franklin,  who  afterwards  died  during  a  voy- 
age of  exploration  to  the  Arctic  region,  came 
to  see  them,  and  after  looking  them  over, 
read  their  sentence,  which  was  banishment 
for  life.  He  was  happy  to  learn  of  the  cap- 
tain of  the  "  Buffalo  "  that  they  had  behaved 
remarkably  well  during  the  voyage.  He  also 
informed  them  that  they  would  be  placed  at 
hard  labor  on  the  public  roads  with  other 
convicts,  and  that  with  good  behavior,  after 
three  years,  they  would  be  granted  tickets  of 
leave,  which  would  give  them  the  liberty  of 
the  island. 

After  three  years  of  this  service,  they  were 
granted  tickets  of  leave,  but  were  confined 
within  certain  limits,  and  obliged  to  report  at 
the  station  every  Saturday  night.  If  they  so 
desired,  they  could  be  changed  from  one  dis- 
trict to  another.  The  deliverance  from  the 
heavy  work  they  had  hitherto  endured  was  a 
blessing,  and  gave  them  new  life.  A  reward 
of  a  pardon  and  free  passage  to  America  hav- 
ing been  offered  by  the  governor  to  any  of 
the  convicts  who  would  capture  some  bush- 
rangers who  were  infesting  the  island,  W. 
Gates,  Stephen  Wright,  Aaron  Dresser  and 
George  Brown  succeeded  in  discovering  the 
hiding-place  and  capturing  two  of  the  rangers. 
They  were  pardoned,  and,  after  a  long  voy- 
age, returned  to  America,  having  served  five 
years  of  a  convict's  life. 

In  September,  1845,  the  governor  com- 
menced to  deal  out  pardons  of  ten  and  fifteen 
at  a  time.  He  thought  it  not  quite  safe  to 
liberate  too  many  at  once.  During  the  year 
1846,  all  of  the  Canadian  prisoners  had  re- 
ceived pardons  excepting  some  few  whose 
behavior  did  not  entitle  them  to  such  a  re- 
ward. 

Thus  ended  the  Patriot  war.  It  was  not 
without     some     beneficent     results     to     the 


Canadas,  for  the  home  government  granted 
them  a  new  charter,  by  .vhich  the  provinces 
were  united  into  a  dominion  with  a  parlia 
ment.  The  Tories  were  defeated  in  the  par 
liament,  and  the  Reform  party,  after  driving 
them  from  power,  assumed  control  of  tiu' 
State.  Even  the  outlaw,  William  Lyon  M(  - 
Kenzie,  was  restored  to  citizenship,  and  was 
for  many  years  a  member  of  parliament,  antl 
the  premier  of  the  government.  A  curious 
phase  of  the  Patriot  troubles  was  the  effect  on 
the  political  heads  of  National  and  State 
governments.  President  Van  Buren  and 
Governor  Marcy  were  both  soundly  denounced 
by  many  newspapers  for  performing  their 
duty  in  enforcing  the  neutrality  laws,  and  lost 
many  votes  in  the  frontier  States.  Marcy  was 
succeeded  by  Seward,  and  on  the  day  the 
election  of  Harrison  was  announced  in  Wash- 
ington, the  boys  shouted  about  the  White 
House  the  refrain  :  "  Van!  Van  !  is  a  used-up 
man."  And  even  General  Scott  attributed 
his  failure  to  receive  the  Whig  nomination  at 
the  Harrisburg  National  Convention  to  tlu' 
machinations  of  Col.  Solomon  Van  Rensse- 
laer, a  delegate  from  New  York,  who  held  a 
spite  against  General  Scott  for  having 
"  s(iuelched  "  his  son,  the  general  in  com- 
mand at  Navy  Island.  j.  A.  h. 


During  the  "  Patriot  "  war,  Watertown  and 
the  adjoining  towns  were  filled  with  ex- 
patriated "  Patriots "  who  had  (led  from 
Canada  to  avoid  arrest  and  imprisonment  for 
alleged  treason.  Watertown  being  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Canadian  leaders,  William 
Lyon  McKenzie,  Van  Rensselaer,  and  others, 
were  located  at  the  old  stone  Mansion  House, 
kept  by  Luther  Gilson,  on  the  site  of  the 
present  Iron  block.  The  old  hostelry  was 
crowded  with  the  patriots.  During  the  early 
winter  of  1838,  the  then  governor-general  of 
Upper  Canada,  who  had  been  recalled  from 
his  position  by  the  British  government,  was 
ordered  to  return.  This  notable  official  was 
Sir  Francis  Bond-Head,  an  ex-officer  of  the 
British  army,  and  thoroughly  despised  in 
Canada.  Wishing  to  reach  New  York  to  sail 
for  England,  he  undertook  to  make  the  jour- 


:nt  granted 
;  provinces 
;h  a   parlia 
in  the  par 
"ter  driving 
trol  of    till' 

Lyon  M( - 
p,  and  wa^ 
anient,  and 

A  curious 
he  effect  on 

and  State 
Huren  and 
r denounced 
rming  their 
ws,  and  lost 

Marcy  was 
he  day  the 
ed  in  Wasli- 

the  White 
is  a  used-up 
t  attributed 
imination  at 
ition  to  the 
^an  Rensse- 
who  held  a 
for  havini; 
iral  in  com- 

j.   A.   H. 

tertown  and 
with  ex- 
fled  from 
sonment  for 
g  the  head- 
rs,  William 
and  others, 
ision  House, 
site  of  the 
lostelry  was 
ig  the  early 
r- general  of 
;called  from 
rnment,  was 
official  was 
fficer  of  the 
despised  in 
York  to  sail 
ke  the  jour- 


THE  "PATRIOT"  WAR. 


149 


ney  by  stage  to  Utica  via  Watertown.  Not 
desirous  of  meeting  his  expatriated  subjects 
for  fear  of  recognition  and  possible  insult,  he 
determined  to  pass  through  incognito.  Leav- 
ing Kingston  during  the  night,  accompanied 
by  a  prominent  citi/en  of  tliat  city,  to  whom 
lie  qcted  the  part  of  valet  (or  gentleman's 
gentleman),  he  arrived  safely  next  morning  by 
wagon  and  driver,  hired  as  an  "  extra."  The 
driver,  not  being  informed  as  to  tiie  (luality  or 


a  bright  and  shrewd  fellow.  After  a  short 
time,  Scanlon  noticed  that  the  valet  was  miss- 
ing, and  his  suspicions  were  aroused,  so  he 
began  to  hunt  him  up.  After  looking  high 
and  low  and  all  around  the  public  scpiare 
without  finding  him,  he  continued  to  search 
elsewhere,  and  at  last  found  the  lost  valet 
cosily  sitting  on  a  wheelbarrow  near  the 
stables.  Walking  up  to  the  late  governor- 
general,  he  recognized  him  at  once.     Intro- 


SIONALING   THE  "NORTH   KING,"  OF  THE  CANADIAN   LINE. 


rank  of  his  passengers,  drove  straight  to  the 
Mansion  House,  and  landed  his  man  at  the 
headquarters  of  his  enemies.  It  was  just 
after  the  breakfast  hour,  and  the  lobby  was 
filled  with  the  Patriot  community,  who  recog- 
nized the  Kingston  citizen  and  greeted  him 
cordially,  but  did  not  recognize  the  valet, 
who  discreetly  kept  in  the  back  ground. 
Prominent  among  the  Patriot  leaders  at  the 
hotel  was  Hugh   Scanlon,  an   Irish-Canadian, 


ducing  himself,  Scanlon  invited  him  to  break- 
fast and  to  meet  his  late  subjects,  assuring 
him  that  he  would  be  welcome,  and  receive 
every  courtesy  due  his  rank.  The  governor 
accepted  the  invitation  and  came  forward. 
He  was  met  by  all  in  a  courteous  and  friendly 
way,  and  was  assisted  in  his  arrangements  for 
departure.  He  left  town  in  a  coach  and  four, 
with  cheers,  and  without  a  single  uncompli- 
mentary remark.  a.  j.  f. 


liJ  ij 


AN    EPISODE   or   NORTHERN   NEW  YORK. 


MAJOR    JOHN    A.    HADDOCK  S    CELEMRATED     HALLOON    VOYAGE    WITH     i^KOFESSOU 

JOHN    LA    MOUNTAIN. 


IT  is  now  about  thirty-five  years  since  the 
undersigned  made  the  memorable  balloon 
voyage  with  Professor  LaMountain  —  a  voyage 
intended  to  be  short  and  pleasant,  but  which 
resulted  in  a  long  and  most  disastrous  one, 
entailing  the  loss  of  the  valuable  balloon,  and 
seriously  endangering  the  lives  of  the  travel- 
lers. Since  then,  LaMountain,  after  serving 
through  the  great  rebellion,  has  made  his  last 
"  voyage,"  and  has  entered  upon  that  exist- 
ence where  all  the  secrets  of  the  skies  are  as 
well  defined  and  understood  as  are  the  course 
of  rivers  here  on  the  earth. 

To  fully  understand  my  reasons  for  making 
the  trip,  some  leading  facts  should  be  pre- 
sented: 

I.  There  had  been,  all  through  the  year 
1859,  much  excitement  in  the  public  mind 
upon  the  subject  of  ballooning.  In  August 
of  that  year,  I  returned  from  I-abrador,  and 
found  that  the  balloon  Atlantic,  with  Wise, 
Hyde,  Gaeger  and  LaMountain,  had  been 
driven  across  apart  of  Lake  Ontario,  while  on 
their  great  trip  from  St.  Louis  to  New  York 
city,  and  had  landed  and  been  wrecked  in 
Jefferson  county,  N.  Y. ,  and  the  people  of 
that  whole  section  were  consequently  in  a 
state  of  considerable  excitement  upon  the  sub- 
ject of  navigating  the  air.* 

*  The  Wise  named  above  was  the  celebrated  aero- 
naut, Professor  John  Wise,  of  Lancaster,  Pa.;  and  I 
m.iy  here  remark  that  the  trip  made  by  him  and  his 
associates  is  by  far  the  longest  on  record.  Leaving 
St.  Louis  at  about  4  p.  m.,  they  passed  the  whole 
night  in  the  air,  were  carried  across  the  States  of 
Illinois,  Indiana,  a  portion  of  Ohio  and  Michigan, 
over  the  whole  northwestern  breadth  of  Pennsylva- 


2.  I  had  heard  of  other  newspaper  editors 
making  trips  in  balloons,  had  read  their  glow- 
ing accounts,  and  it  seemed  to  me  like  a  very 
cunning  thing.  Desiring  to  enjoy  "  all  that 
was  a-going,"  I  naturally  wanted  a  balloon 
ride,  too,  and  therefore  concluded  to  go,  ex- 
pecting to  be  absent  from  nome  not  more  than 
ten  or  twelve  hours  at  the  longest,  and  to 
have  a  good  time.  Being  a  newspaper  man, 
and  always  on  the  alert  for  news,  I  had  also 
a  natural  desire  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  add 
to  the  local  interest  of  my  journal,  and  for 
that  reason  felt  a  willingness  to  go  througli 
with  more  fatigue  and  hazard  than  men  are  ex- 
pected to  endure  in  ordinary  business  pursuits. 

3.  I  felt  safe  in  going,  as  I  knew  that  La- 
Mountain was  an  intrepid  and  successful 
aeronaut,  and  I  thought  his  judgment  was  to 
be  depended  upon.  How  he  was  misled  as  to 
distance,  and  how  little  he  knew,  or  any  man 
can  know,  of  air  navigation,  the  narrative  will 
readily  demonstrate. 

nia  and  New  York,  and  were  at  last  wrecked  in  a 
huge  tree-top  near  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  at 
about  3  p.  M.  the  next  day,  escaping  with  severe 
bruises,  but  without  broken  bones,  after  a  journey 
of  eleven  hundred  miles.  These  adventurers  did 
not  travel  as  fast,  nor  encounter  the  perils  that 
awaited  us,  but  they  made  a  longer  voyage.  It  was 
with  this  same  balloon  Atlantic  that  LaMountain  and 
myself  made  our  trip;  but  it  had  been  reduced  one- 
third  in  size,  and  was  as  good  as  new.  John  Wise 
afterwards  lost  his  life  in  a  balloon,  but  just  where 
he  perished  was  never  known.  Gaeger  was  a  manu- 
facturer of  crockery,  and  he  died  in  Massachusetts. 
Hyde  is  publishing  a  newspaper  in  one  of  the  west- 
ern States.  LaMountain  died  in  his  bed  at  Lansing- 
burgh,  N.  Y.,  about  1884. 


KOFESSOK 


iper  editors 
their  glow- 
like  a  very 
ly  "  all  that 
I  a  balloon 
i  to  go,  ex- 
»t  more  than 
est,  and  to 
spaper  man. 
,  I  had  also 
jwer  to  add 
lal,  and  for 
go  through 
men  are  ex- 
ess  pursuits, 
ew  that  La- 
successful 
lent  was  to 
misled  as  to 
or  any  man 
arrative  will 


wrecked  in  a 
e  Ontario,  at 
with  severe 
ter  a  journey 
'enturers  did 
e  perils  that 
:age.  It  was 
Mountain  and 
reduced  one- 
John  Wise 
it  just  where 
rwas  a  manu- 
[assachusetts. 
3  of  the  west- 
id  at  Lansing- 


MR.  JOHN  A.  HADDOCK'S  CELEBRATED  HALLOON  VOYAGE. 


151 


With  these  explanations,  I  will  proceed  with 
my  original  narrative,  nearly  as  written  out  at 
\\v:  time. 

Nearly  every  one  in  VVatertown  is  aware 
that  the  second  ascension  of  the  balloon  At- 
l.iiuic  was  advertised  for  the  20th  of  Sci)tom- 
ber,  1859.  The  storm  of  that  and  the  follow- 
ing day  obliged  the  postponement  of  the 
ascension  until  the  22d.  Every  arrangement 
had  been  made  for  a  successful  inflation,  and 
at  27  minutes  before  6  i'.  m.,  the  glad  words 
"all  aboard  "  were  heard  from  LaMountain, 
and  that  distinguished  .neronaut  and  myself 
stepped  into  the  car.  Many  were  the  friendly 
hands  we  shook — many  a  fervent  "God  bless 
you,"  and  "  happy  voyage,"  were  uttered  — 
and  many  handkercliiefs  waved  their  mute 
adieus.  "  Let  go  ail,"  and  away  we  soared  ; 
in  an  instant  all  minor  sounds  of  earth  had 
ceased,  and  we  were  lifted  into  a  silent 
si)here,  whose  shores  were  without  an  echo, 
their  silence  equaled  only  by  that  of  the 
i^rave.  No  feeling  of  trepidation  was  experi- 
■nced  ;  an  extraordii  .>  .  elation  took  posses- 
sion of  us,  and  fear  was  as  far  lemoved  as 
though  we  hu.>l  been  sitting  in  our  own  rooms 
at  home. 

Two  or  three  things  struck  me  as  peculiar 
in  looking  down  from  an  altitude  of  half  a 
mile  :  the  small  appearance  of  our  village 
from  such  a  height  and  the  beautiful  mechani- 
cal look  which  the  straight  fences  and  oblong 
sfjuare  fields  of  the  farmers  present.  As  we 
rose  into  the  light,  fleecy  clouds,  they  looked 
between  us  and  the  earth  like  patches  of  snow 
we  see  lying  upon  the  landscape  in  spring- 
time ;  but  when  we  rose  a  little  higher  the 
clouds  completely  shut  out  the  earth,  and  the 
cold,  white  masses  below  us  had  precisely  the 
same  look  that  a  mountainous  snow-covered 
country  does,  as  you  look  down  upon  it  from 
a  higher  mountain.  Those  who  have  crossed 
tlie  Alps  —  or  have  stood  upon  one  of  the 
lofty  summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  gazed 
down  upon  the  eternal  snows  below  and 
around  them,  will  be  able  to  catch  the  idea. 
In  six  minutes  we  were  far  above  all  the 
clouds,  and  the  sun  and  we  were  face  to  face. 
We   saw  the  time  after  that  when  his  face 


would  have  been  very  welcome  to  us.  In 
eight  minutes  after  leaving  the  earth,  the 
thermometer  showed  a  fall  of  24  degrees.  It 
stood  at  84  wiien  we  left.  The  balloon  ro- 
tated a  good  deal,  proving  that  we  were  as- 
cending with  great  rapidity.  At  5:48  the 
thermometer  stood  at  42,  and  failing  very 
fast.  At  5:150  we  were  at  least  two  miles  high 
—  thermometer  34. 

An  unpleasant  ringing  sensation  had  now 
become  painful,  and  I  filled  both  ears  with 
cotton.  At  5:52  we  put  on  our  gloves  and 
shawls  —  thermometer  32.  The  wet  sandbags 
nov,'  became  stiff  with  cold  —  they  were 
frozen.  Ascending  very  rapidly.  At  5:54 
thermometer  28,  and  falling.  Here  we  caught 
our  last  sight  of  the  earth  by  daylight.  I 
recognized  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  southwest 
of  us,  which  showea  '  e  were  drifting  nearly 
nortii.  At  6  o'clock  u  .■  thought  we  were  de- 
scending a  little,  a, id  LaMountain  directed 
me  to  throw  o  1  about  .'o  po'l^Js  of  ballast. 
'I'nis  shot  us  uj)  again--  tl.jimometer  26,  and 
falling  vtry  slowly  At  6:05  thermometer 
22  —  my  feet  wticv^ry  cold.  The  Atlantic 
was  now  full,  r\nd  presented  a  most  splendid 
sight.  The  gas  began  to  discharge  itself  at 
the  mouth,  and  its  abominable  smell,  a;;  it 
came  down  upon  us,  made  me  sick.  A  mo- 
tiient's  vomiting  helped  my  casie  materially. 
LaMountain  was  suffering  a  good  deal  with 
cold.  I  passed  my  thick  shawl  around  his 
shoulders,  and  put  the  blanket  over  our  knees 
and  feet.  At  6:10  thermometer  18.  We 
drifted  along  until  the  sun  left  us,  and  in  a 
short  time  thereafter  the  balloon  began  to  de- 
scend. We  must  have  been,  before  we  began 
to  descend  from  this  height,  3^  miles  high. 
At  6:32  thermometer  23  ;  rising.  We  were 
now  about  stationary,  and  thought  we  were 
sailing  north  of  east.  We  could,  we  thought, 
distinguish  water  below  us,  but  were  unable 
to  recognize  it.  At  6:38  we  threw  over  a  bag 
of  sand,  making  80  pounds  of  ballast  dis- 
charged, and  leaving  about  120  pounds  on 
hanJ.  We  distinctly  heard  a  dog  bark. 
Thermometer  28  —  and  rising  rapidly.  At 
6:45  ^^^  thermometer  stood  at  33. 

At  6:50  it  was  dark,  and  I  could  make  no 


152 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


more  memoranda.  I  put  up  my  note  book, 
pencil  and  watch,  and  settled  down  in  the 
basket,  feeling  quite  contented.  From  this 
point  until  next  morning  I  give  my  experience 
from  memory  only.  The  figures  given  were 
made  at  the  time  indicated,  and  the  thern''  - 
metric  variations  can  be  depended  on  as  quite 
accurate. 

We  heard,  soon  after  that,  a  locomotive 
whistle,  and  occasionally  could  hear  wagons 
rumbling  over  the  ground  or  a  bridge,  while 
the  farmers'  dogs  kept  up  a  continual  baying, 
as  if  conscious  there  was  something  unusual 
in  the  sky.  We  sailed  along,  contented  and 
chatty,  until  about  half-past  eight  o'clock, 
when  we  distinctly  saw  lights  below  us,  and 
heard  the  roaring  of  a  mighty  water-fall.  We 
descended  into  a  valley  near  a  very  high 
mountain,  but,  as  the  place  appeared  rather 
forbidding,  we  concluded  to  go  up  again. 
Over  with  30  pounds  of  ballast,  and  sky-ward 
we  sailed.  In  about  20  minutes  we  again  de- 
scended, but  this  time  no  friendly  light 
greeted  us.  We  seemed  to  be  over  a  dense 
wilderness,  and  the  balloon  was  settling  down 
into  a  small  lake.  We  had  our  life-preservers 
ready  for  use,  but  got  up  again  by  throwing 
out  all  our  ballast,  except  perhaps  20  pounds. 
LaMountain  now  declared  it  was  folly  to  stay 
up  any  longer,  that  we  were  over  a  great  wil- 
derness, and  the  sooner  we  descended  the 
better.  We  concluded  to  settle  down  by  the 
side  of  some  tall  tree,  tie  up,  and  wait  until 
morning.  In  a  moment  we  were  near  the 
earth,  and  as  we  gently  descended  I  grasped 
the  extreme  top  of  a  high  spruce,  which 
stopped  the  balloon's  momentum,  and  we 
were  soon  lashed  to  the  tree  by  our  large 
drag-rope. 

We  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets,  pa- 
tiently waiting  for  the  morning.  The  cold 
rain  spouted  down  upon  us  in  rivulets  from 
the  great  balloon  that  lazily  rolled  from  side 
to  side  over  our  heads,  and  we  were  soon 
drenched  and  uncomfortable  as  men  could 
be.  After  a  night  passed  in  great  apprehen- 
sion and  unrest,  we  were  right  glad  to  see  the 
first  faint  rays  of  coming  light.  Cold  and 
rainy  the  morning  at  last  broke,  the  typical 


precursor  of  other  dismal  mornings  to  be 
spent  in  that  uninhabited  wilderness.  We 
waited  until  6  o'clock  in  hopes  the  rain  would 
cease,  and  that  the  rays  of  the  sun,  by  warm- 
ing and  thereby  expanding  the  gas  in  the  bal- 
loon, would  give  us  ascending  power  sufficient 
to  get  up  again,  for  the  purpose  of  obtainint^ 
a  view  of  the  country  into  which  we  had  de- 
scended. The  rain  did  not  cease,  and  we 
concluded  to  throw  over  .ill  we  had  in  the 
balloon,  except  a  coat  for  each,  the  life-pre- 
servers, the  anchor  and  the  compass.  Over- 
board, then,  they  went  —  good  shawls  and 
blankets,  bottles  of  ale  and  a  flask  of  cordial, 
ropes  and  traps  of  all  kinds.  The  Atlantic, 
relieved  of  this  wet  load,  rose  majestically  with 
us,  and  we  were  able  to  behold  the  coun- 
try below.  It  was  an  unbroken  wilderness  of 
lakes  and  spruce  —  and  I  began  then  to  fully 
realize  that  we  had,  indeed,  gone  too  far, 
through  a  miscalculation  of  the  velocity  of  the 
balloon.  As  the  current  was  still  driving  us 
towards  the  north,  we  dare  not  stay  up,  as  we 
were  drifting  still  farther  and  farther  into 
trouble.  LaMountain  seized  the  valve-cord 
and  discharged  the  gas,  and  we  descended  in 
safety  to  the  solid  earth.  Making  the  Atlan- 
tic fast  by  her  anchor,  we  considered  what 
was  to  be  done. 

We  had  not  a  mouthful  to  eat,  no  protection 
at  night  from  the  wet  ground,  were  distant  we 
knew  not  how  far  from  any  habitation,  were 
hungry  to  start  with,  had  no  possible  expecta- 
tion of  making  a  f  "-e,  and  no  definite  or  satis- 
factory idea  as  to  where  we  were.  We  had 
not  even  a  respectable  poi  ket  knife,  nor  a  pin 
to  make  a  fish  hook  of  —  indeed,  we  were 
about  as  well  equipped  for  forest  life  as  were 
the  babes  in  the  woods. 

After  a  protracted  discussion,  in  which  all 
our  ingenuity  was  brought  to  bear  upon  the 
question  of  our  whereabouts,  we  settled  in  our 
minds  (mainly  from  the  character  of  the  tim- 
ber around  us),  that  we  v  re  either  in  John 
Brown's  tract,  or  in  that  wilderness  lying  be- 
tween Ottawa  City  and  Prescott,  Canada.  If 
this  were  so,  then  we  knew  that  a  course  south 
by  eas*^  would  take  us  out  if  we  had  strength 
enough  to  travel  the  distance. 


MR.  JOHN  A.  HADDOCK'S  CELEBRATED  BALLOON  VOYAGE. 


'53 


nings  to  be 
erness.  We 
le  rain  would 
in,  by  warm- 
is  in  the  bal- 
iver  sufficient 
of  obtaining; 

I  we  had  de- 
;ase,  and  we 
:  had  in  the 
,  the  life-pre- 
pass.  Over- 
shawls  and 

>k  of  cordial, 
rhe  Atlantic, 
estically  with 
d  the  coun- 
kvilderness  of 
then  to  fully 
one  too  far, 
ilocity  of  the 

II  driving  us 
:ay  up,  as  we 
farther  into 
e  valve-cord 
descended  in 
g  the  Atlan- 
iidered  what 

lo  protection 
e  distant  we 
itation,  were 
ble  expecta- 
nite  or  satis- 
e.  We  had 
fe,  nor  a  pin 
;d,  we  were 
life  as  were 

in  which  all 
ar  upon  the 
ettled  in  our 
•  of  the  tim- 
ber in  John 
;ss  lying  be- 
Canada.  If 
course  south 
lad  strength 


TRAMPING    IN    THE    WOODS. 

Acting  upon  our  conclusion,  we  started 
through  the  woods  towards  the  south-east. 
After  travelling  about  a  mile  we  came  to  the 
bank  of  a  small  stream  flowing  from  the  west, 
and  were  agreeably  surprised  to  find  that 
some  human  being  had  been  there  before  us, 
for  we  found  the  stumps  of  several  small  trees 
and  the  head  of  a  half-barrel,  which  had  con- 
tained pork.  I  eagerly  examined  the  inspec- 
tion-stamp ;  it  read : 

"MESS   PORK." 

"P.   M." 

"Montreal." 

This  settled  the  question  that  we  were  in 
Canada,  as  I  very  well  knew  that  no  Montreal 
inspection  of  pork  ever  found  its  way  into  the 
State  of  New  York.  Although  the  course  we 
had  adopted  was  to  be  a  south-easterly  one, 
we  yet  concluded  to  follow  this  creek  to  the 
westward,  and  all  day  Friday  we  travelled  up 
its  banks  —  crossing  it  about  noon  on  a  float- 
ing log,  and  striking  on  the  southern  shore,  a 
"  blazed  "  path,  which  led  to  a  deserted  lum- 
ber road,  and  it  in  turn  bring  us  to  a  log 
shanty  on  the  opposite  bank.  We  bad  hoped 
this  lumber  road  would  lead  us  out  into  a 
clearing  or  a  settlement,  but  a  careful  exami- 
nation satisfied  us  that  the  road  ended  here, 
its  objective  point  evidently  being  the  shanty 
on  the  other  bank.  We  concluded  to  cross 
the  creek  to  the  shanty,  and  stay  there  all 
night.  Collecting  some  small  timbers  for  a 
raft,  LaMountain  crossed  over  safely,  shoving 
the  raft  back  to  me.  But  my  weight  was 
greater  than  my  companion's,  and  the  frail 
structure  sank  under  me,  precipitating  me 
into  the  water.  I  went  in  all  over,  but  swam 
out,  though  it  took  all  my  strength  to  do  so. 
On  reaching  the  bank  I  found  myself  so 
chilled  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  stand.  I 
took  off  all  my  clothes  and  wrung  them  as  dry 
as  I  could.  We  then  proceeded  to  the  shanty, 
where  we  found  some  refuse  straw,  but  it  was 
dry,  and  under  a  pile  of  it  we  crawled  —  pull- 
ing it  over  our  heads  and  faces,  in  the  hope 
that  our  breath  might  aid  in  warming  our 
chilled  bodies.     I  think  the  most  revengeful. 


stony  heart  would  have  pitied  our  condition 
then.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  our 
thoughf  as  we  lay  there ;  home,  children, 
wife,  parents,  friends,  with  their  sad  and  anx- 
ious faces,  rose  up  reproachfully  before  us  as 
we  tried  to  sleep.  But  the  weary  hours  of 
night  at  l?st  wore  away,  and  at  daylight  we 
held  a  new  council.  It  was  evident,  we  ar- 
gued, that  the  creek  we  were  upon  was  used 
by  the  lumbermen  for  "  driving  "  their  logs 
in  the  spring  freshets.  If,  then,  we  followed 
it  to  its  confluence  with  the  Ottawa  or  some 
streaiTi  which  emptied  into  the  Ottawa,  we 
would  eventually  get  out  the  same  way  the 
timber  went  out.  The  roof  of  the  shanty  was 
covered  with  the  halves  of  hollow  logs, 
scooped  out  in  a  manner  familiar  to  all  woods- 
men. These  were  dry  and  light,  and  would 
make  us  an  excellent  raft.  Why  not,  then, 
take  four  of  these,  tie  them  to  cross-pieces  by 
wythes  and  such  odd  things  as  we  could  find 
around  the  shanty,  and  pole  the  craft  down 
stream  to  that  c",>ilization  which  even  a  saw- 
log  appeared  able  to  reach.  Such,  then,  was 
the  plan  adopted,  although  it  involved  the  re- 
tracing of  all  the  steps  hitherto  taken,  and  an 
apparent  departure  from  the  course  we  had 
concluded  would  lead  us  out. 

Without  delay,  then,  we  dragged  the  hollow 
logs  down  to  the  creek,  and  LaMountain  pro- 
ceeded to  tie  them  together,  as  he  was  more  of 
a  sailor  than  myself.  We  at  last  got  under 
way,  and,  as  we  pushed  off,  a  miserable  crow 
set  up  a  dismal  cawing  —  an  inauspicious  sign. 
We  poled  down  the  stream  about  a  mile, 
when  we  came  abruptly  upon  a  large  pine 
tree  which  had  fallen  across  the  current,  and 
completely  blockint:  the  passage  of  the  raft. 
No  other  course  was  left  us  but  to  untie  the 
raft,  and  push  the  pieces  through  under  the 
lug.  This  was  at  last  accomplished,  when  we 
tied  our  craft  together  again,  and  poled  down 
the  stream.  To-day  each  of  us  ate  a  raw  frog 
(all  we  could  find),  and  began  to  realize  that 
we  were  hungry.  Yet  there  was  no  com- 
plaining—  our  talk  was  of  the  hopeful  future, 
and  of  the  home  and  civilization  we  yet  ex- 
pected to  reach.  Down  the  creek  we  went, 
into  a  lake  some   four  miles  long,  and  into 


154 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


which  we  of  course  supposed  the  stream  to 
pass,  with  its  outlet  at  the  lower  end.  We 
followed  down  the  northern  bank,  keeping 
always  near  the  shore  and  in  shallow  water,  so 
that  our  poles  could  touch  the  bottom,  until 
we  reached  the  lower  extremity  of  the  lake, 
where  we  found  no  outlet,  and  so  turned  back 
upon  the  southern  shore  in  quest  of  one.  On 
reaching  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  examining 
the  stream  attentively,  we  found  that  the  cur- 
rent of  the  creek  turned  abruptly  to  the  right, 
which  was  the  reason  of  our  losing  it.  We 
felt  happy  to  have  found  our  current  again, 
and  plied  our  poles  like  heroes.  We  passed, 
late  in  the  afternoon,  tlie  spot  where  we  had 
at  first  struck  the  creek,  and  where  we  stuck 
up  some  dead  branches  as  a  landmark  which 
might  aid  us  in  case  we  should,  at  a  future 
time,  attempt  to  save  the  Atlantic. 

When  night  came  on  we  did  not  stop,  but 
kept  the  raft  going  down  througii  tlie  shades 
of  awful  forests,  whose  solemn  stillness 
seemed  to  hide  from  us  the  unrevealed  mys- 
tery of  our  darkening  future.  During  the 
morning  the  rain  had  ceased,  but  about  lo 
o'clock  at  night  it  commenced  again.  We 
stopped  the  "  vessel "  and  crawled  in  under 
some  "  tag "  alders  on  the  bank,  where  our 
extreme  weariness  enabled  us  to  get,  perhaps, 
half  an  hour's  sleep.  Rising  again  (for  it  was 
easier  to  pole  the  raft  at  night  in  the  rain  down 
an  unknown  stream  amidst  the  shadows  of 
that  awful  forest  than  to  lie  on  the  ground  and 
freeze),  we  pressed  on  until  perhaps  3  in 
the  morning,  when  pure  exhaustion  compelled 
us  to  stop  again.  This  time  we  found  a  spot 
where  the  clayey  bank  lacked  a  little  of 
coming  down  to  the  water.  On  the  mud  we 
threw  our  little  bundle  of  straw,  and  sat  down 
with  our  feet  drawn  up  under  us,  so  as  to 
present  as  little  surface  to  the  rain  as  possible. 
But  we  could  not  stand  such  an  uncomfort- 
able position  long,  and  as  the  daylight  of  the 
Sabbath  broke  upon  us,  we  were  poling  down 
the  stream  in  a  drizzling  rain.  At  8  o'clock 
we  reached  a  spot  at  which  the  stream  nar- 
rowed, rushing  over  large  boulders,  and 
between  rocky  shores.  This  was  trouble, 
indeed.     To  get  our  raft  down  this  place,  we 


regarded  as  well-nigh  hopeless.  We  tied  up 
and  examined  the  shore.  Here,  again,  we 
found  unmistakable  marks  left  by  the  lumber- 
men, they  having  evidently  camped  at  this 
point,  to  be  handy  by  in  the  labor  of  getting 
the  timber  over  this  bad  spot  in  the  stream. 
The  rapids  were  about  a  third  of  a  mile  long, 
and  very  turbulent.  After  a  protracted  sur- 
vey we  descended  the  bank,  and  thought  it 
best  to  abandon  our  raft,  and  try  our  luck  on 
foot  again.  After  travelling  about  a  mile,  we 
found  the  bank  so  tangled  and  rugged,  and 
ourselves  so  much  exhausted,  that  satisfactory 
progress  was  impossible.  So  we  concluded  to 
go  back,  and  if  we  could  get  the  raft  down, 
even  one  piece  at  a  time,  we  would  go  on 
witli  her  —  if  not,  we  would  build  as  good  a 
place  as  possible  to  shield  us  from  the  cold 
and  wet,  and  there  await  with  fortitude  that 
death  from  starvation  which  was  beginning  to 
be  regarded  as  a  probability.  This  was  our 
third  day  of  earnest  labor  and  distressing 
fatigue,  and  in  all  that  time  we  had  not  eaten  an 
ounce  of  food,  nor  had  dry  clothing  upon  us. 
Acting  upon  our  resolution,  we  at  once  com- 
menced to  get  the  raft  down  the  rapids,  and  I 
freely  confess  that  this  was  the  most  trying 
and  laborious  work  of  a  whole  life  of  labor. 
The  pieces  would  not  float  over  a  rod  at  a 
time,  before  they  would  stick  on  some  stone 
which  the  low  water  left  above  the  surface, 
and  then  you  must  pry  the  stick  over  in  some 
way,  and  pass  it  along  to  the  next  obstruction. 
We  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  stream,  often 
up  to  the  middle,  with  slippery  boulders  be- 
neath our  feet.  Several  times  I  fell  headlong 
— completely  using  up  our  compass,  which  now 
frantically  pointed  in  any  direction  its  addled 
head  took  a  fancy  to.  The  water  had  unglued 
the  case,  and  it  was  ruined.  After  long  hours 
of  such  labor,  we  got  the  raft  down,  and  La- 
Mountain  again  tied  it  together.  Passing  on, 
in  about  an  hour,  we  came  to  a  large  lake, 
about  ten  miles  long  by  six  broad.  Around  it 
we  must  of  course  pass,  until  we  should  find 
the  desired  outlet.  So  we  turned  up  to  the 
right,  and  pressed  on  with  as  much  resolution 
as  we  could  muster.  To-day  we  found  one 
clam,  which  I  insisted   LaMountain   should 


I 


MR.  JOHN  A.  HADDOCK'S  CELEBRATED  BALLOON  VOYAGE. 


155 


We  tied  up 
,  again,  we 
the  lumber- 
iped  at  this 
r  of  getting 
the  stream, 
a  mile  long, 
itracted  sur- 
[  thought  it 
our  luck  on 
t  a  mile,  we 
rugged,  and 
satisfactory 
onckided  to 

raft  down, 
■ould  go  on 
I  as  good  a 
)m  the  cold 
rtitude  that 
beginning  to 
his  was  our 

distressing 
not  eaten  an 
ng  upon  us. 
It  onceconi- 
apids,  and  I 
most  trying 
Fe  of  labor. 

a  rod  at  a 

some  stone 
:he  surface, 
ver  in  some 
obstruction, 
tream,  often 
oulders  be- 
ll headlong 
,  which  now 
1  its  addled 
lad  unglued 
r  long  hours 
m,  and  La- 
Passing  on, 

large  lake. 

Around  it 

should  find 

1  up  to  the 

resolution 

found  one 
ain   should 


* 


eat,  as  he  was  much  weaker  than  myself,   and 
had  eaten  nothing  on  tlie  day  we  went  up. 

Part  of  this  day  LaMountain  slept  upon  the 
raft,  and  I  was  "  boss  and  all  hands."  As  the 
poor  fellow  lay  there,  completely  used  up,  I 
saw  that  he  could  not  be  of  much  more  assist- 
ance in  getting  out.  Erysipelas,  from  which 
he  had  previously  suffered,  had  attacked  his 
right  eye  ;  his  face  was  shriveled  so  that  he 
looked  like  an  old  man,  and  his  clothes 
were  nearly  torn  from  his  body.  A 
few  tears  could  not  be  restrained,  and 
my  ])rayer  was  for  speedy  deliverance 
or  speedy  death.  While  my  compan- 
ion was  asleep,  and  I  busily  poling  the 
raft  along,  I  was  forced  to  the  con- 
clusion, after  deliberately  canvassing 
all  the  chances,  that  we  were  pretty 
sure  to  perish  there  miserably  at  last. 
But  I  could  not  cease  my  efforts  while 
I  had  strength,  and  so  around  the 
lake  we  went,  into  all  the  indentations 
of  the  shore,  keeping  always  in  shallow 
water.  The  day  at  last  wore  away, 
and  we  stopped  at  night  at  a  place  we 
thought  least  exposed  to  the  wind. 
We  dragged  the  end  of  our  raft  out 
of  the  water,  and  laid  down  upon  the 
cold  ground.  We  were  cold  when  we 
laid  down,  and  both  of  us  tremblf^d 
by  the  hour,  like  men  suffering  from  a 
severe  attack  of  the  ague.  The  wind 
had  risen  just  at  night,  and  the  dismal 
surging  of  the  waves  upon  the  shore, 
formed,  I  thought,  a  fitting  lullaby  to 
our  disturbed   and   dismal   slumbers. 

By  this  time  our  clothes  were  nearly 
torn  off.  My  pantaloons  were  split  up 
both  legs,  and  the  waistbands  nearly  gone.  My 
boots  were  mere  wrecks,  and  our  mighty  wrest- 
lings in  the  rapids  had  torn  the  skin  from  ankles 
and  hands.  LaMountain 's  hat  had  disap- 
peared ;  the  first  day  out  he  had  thrown  away 
his  woolen  drawers  and  stockings,  as  they 
(Iragged  him  down  by  the  weight  of  water 
they  absorbed.  And  so  we  could  sleep  but 
little.  It  really  seemed  as  though,  during  this 
night,  we  passed  through  the  horrors  of  death. 
But  at  daylight  we  got  up  by  degrees,  first  on 


one  knee  and  then  on  the  other,  so  stiff  and 
weak  that  we  could  hardly  stand.  Again 
upon  the  silent,  monotonous  lake,  we  went — 
following  around  its  shore  for  an  outlet. 
About  10  o'clock  we  came  to  quite  a  broad 
northern  stream,  which  we  thought  was  the 
outlet  we  were  seeking,  and  we  entered  it  with 
joy,  believing  it  would  take  us  to  our  long 
sought  Ottawa.     Shortly    after   entering   this 


THE    POP-CORN    MAN,    KNOWN   AS    OLD    "JUST    ABOUT. 

Stream  it  widened  out,  and  began  to  appear 
like  a  mere  lake.  We  poled  up  the  westerly 
shore  for  about  seven  miles,  but  found  our- 
selves again  deceived  as  to  the  outlet  —  the 
water  we  were  upon  proving  to  be  another 
lake  or  bayou.  We  had  gone  into  this  lake 
with  the  highest  hopes,  but  when  we  found 
that  all  the  weary  miles  of  our  morning  travel 
had  been  in  vain,  and  had  to  be  retraced,  my 
resolution  certainly  failed  me  for  a  moment. 
Yet  we  felt  that  our  duty,  as  Christian   men, , 


156 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


was  to  press  forward  as  long  as  we  could 
stand,  and  leave  the  issue  with  a  higher 
Power 

It  had  now  been  four  full  days  since  we  ate 
a  meal.  All  we  had  eaten  in  the  meantime 
was  a  frog  apiece,  four  clams  and  a  few  wild 
berries,  whose  acid  properties  and  bitter  taste 
had  probably  done  us  more  harm  than  good. 
Our  strength  was  beginning  to  fail  very  fast, 
and  our  systems  were  evidently  undergoing 
an  extraordinary  change.  I  did  not  permit 
myself  to  think  of  food  —  the  thought  of  a 
well-filled  table  would  have  been  too  much. 
My  mind  continually  dwelt  upon  poor  Strain's 
sufferings  on  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  (then 
lately  published  in  Harper's  Magazine).  He, 
too,  was  paddling  a  raft  down  an  unknown 
stream,  half  starved,  and  filled  with  dreadful 
forebodings.  But  I  did  not  believe  we  could 
hold  out  half  as  long  as  he  had.  Besides,  he 
was  lost  in  a  tropical  country,  where  all 
nature  is  kind  to  man  ;  he  had  firearms  and 
other  weapons  with  which  to  kill  game.  We 
were  in  a  cold,  inhospitable  land,  without 
arms,  and  utterly  unable  to  build  a  fire. 
Strain  was  upon  a  stream  wliich  he  knew 
would  eventually  bear  him  to  the  sea  and  to 
safety ;  while  we  were  upon  waters  whose 
flow  we  positively  knew  nothing  about,  and 
were  as  much  lost  as  though  in  the  mountains 
of  the  moon.  Yet  we  could  not  give  it  up 
so,  and  tried  to  summon  up  fresh  courage  as 
troubles  appeared  to  thicken  around  us.  So 
we  turned  the  raft  around,  and  poled  it  in 
silence  back  towards  the  place  where  we  had 
entered  this  last  lake.  We  had  gone  about  a 
mile  when  we  heard  the  sound  of  a  gun, 
quickly  followed  by  a  second  report.  No 
sound  was  ever  so  sweet  as  that.  We  halloed 
as  loud  as  we  could,  a  good  many  times,  but 
could  get  no  response.  We  kept  our  poles 
going  quite  lively,  and  had  gone  about  half  a 
mile,  when  I  called  LaMountain's  attention  to 
what  I  thought  was  smoke  curling  up  among 
the  trees  by  the  side  of  a  hill.  My  own  eye- 
sight had  begun  to  fail  very  much,  and  I  felt 
afraid  to  trust  my  dull  senses  in  a  matter  §o 
vitally  important.  LaMountain  scrutinized 
the  shore  very  closely,  and  said  he  thought  it 


was  smoke,  and  that  he  believed  there  was 
also  a  birch  canoe  on  the  shore  below.  In  a 
few  moments  the  blue  smoke  rolled  unmis- 
takably above  the  tree  tops,  and  we  felt  thai 

WE    WERE    saved! 

S>ich  a  revulsion  of  feeling  was  almost  too 
much.  We  could  hardly  credit  our  good 
fortune,  for  our  many  bitter  disappointments 
had  taught  us  not  to  be  very  sanguine.  With 
the  ends  of  our  poles  we  paddled  the  raft 
across  the  arm  of  the  lake,  here,  perhaps, 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  steering  for  the 
canoe.  It  proved  to  be  a  large  one,  evidently 
an  Indian's.  Leaving  LaMountain  to  guard 
and  retain  the  canoe,  in  case  the  Indian  proved 
timid  and  desired  to  escape  from  us,  I  pressed 
hurriedly  up  the  bank,  following  the  foot- 
prints I  saw  in  the  damp  soil,  and  soon  came 
upon  the  temporary  shanty  of  a  lumbering 
wood,  from  the  rude  chimney  of  which  a 
broad  volume  of  smoke  was  rising.  I  hal- 
loed— a  noise  was  heard  inside,  and  a  noble- 
looking  Indian  came  to  the  door.  I  eagerly 
asked  him  if  he  could  speak  French,  as  I 
grasped  his  outstretched  hand.  "  Yes,"  he 
replied,  "  and  English,  too  !  "  He  drew  me 
into  the  cabin,  and  there  I  saw  the  leader  of 
the  party,  a  noble-hearted  Scotchman  named 
Angus  Cameron.  I  immediately  told  my 
story  ;  that  we  had  come  in  there  with  a  bal- 
loon, were  lost,  and  had  been  over  four  days 
without  food — eagerly  demanding  to  know 
where  we  were.  Imagine  my  surprise  when 
he  said  we  were  one  hundred  and  eighty 

MILES     DUE     NORTH     OF     OTTAWA,    near    300 

miles  from  Watertown.  to  reach  which  would 
require  more  than  500  miles  of  travel,  follow- 
ing the  streams  and  roads.  We  were  in  a 
wilderness  as  large  as  three  States  like  New 
York,  extending  from  Lake  Superior  on  the 
west,  to  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  east,  and 
from  Ottawa,  on  the  south,  to  the  Arctic 
circle. 

The  party  consisted  of  four  persons  — 
Cameron  and  his  assistant,  and  a  half-breed 
Indian  (LaMab  McDougal)  and  his  son. 
Their  savory  dinner  was  ready.  I  immedi- 
ately  dispatched    the   young  Indian   for  La- 


I 


MR.  JOHN  A.  HADDOCK'S  CELEBRATED  BALLOON  VOYAGE. 


157 


i  there  was 
alow.  In  a 
lied  unmis- 
ive  felt  that 


almost  too 
t  our  good 
^pointmems 
uine.  With 
led  the  raft 
re,  perhaps, 
;ring  for  the 
le,  evidently 
in  to  guard 
dian  proved 
.IS,  I  pressed 
g  the  foot- 
1  soon  came 
1  lumbering 
of  which  a 
ing.  I  hal- 
.nd  a  noble- 
I   eagerly 

rench,  as  I 

"Yes,"  he 
le  drew  me 
he  leader  of 

man  named 
told    my 

with  a  bal- 
r  four  days 
to    know 

rprise  when 

ND    EIGHTY 

near  300 
vhich  would 
ivel,  follow- 
were  in  a 
;s  like  New 
rior  on  the 
e  east,  and 
the   Arctic 


^ 


persons  — 
half-breed 

d  his  son. 
I   immedi- 

ian   for  La- 


Mountain,  who  soon  came  in,  the  absolute 
picture  of  wretchedness.  All  that  the  cabin 
contained  was  freely  offered  us,  and  we 
BEGAN  TO  EAT.  Language  is  inadequate  to 
express  our  feelings.  Within  one  little  hour 
the  clouds  had  lifted  from  our  sombre  future, 
and  we  felt  ourselves  to  be  men  once  more 
—  no  longer  houseless  wanderers  amid  pri- 
meval forests,  driven  by  chance  from  side 
to  side,  but  inspired  by  the  near  certainty 
of  seeing  home  again  and  mingling  with 
our  fellows  once  more  in  the  busy  scenes  of 
life. 

We  soon  learned  from  Cameron  that  the 
stream  we  had  traversed  with  our  raft  was 
called  Filliman's  creek  —  the  large  lake  we 
were  then  near  was  called  the  Bos-ke-tong, 
and  drains  into  the  Bos-ke-tong  river,  which  in 
turn  drains  into  the  Gatineau.  The  Gatineau 
joins  the  Ottawa  opposite  the  city  of  that 
name,  the  seat  of  government  of  Canada. 
Cameron  assured  us  that  the  Bos-ke-tong  and 
Gatineau  were  so  rapid  and  broken  that  no 
set  of  men  could  get  a  raft  down,  no  matter 
how  well  they  knew  the  country,  nor  how 
much  provisions  they  might  have.  He  re- 
garded our  deliverance  as  purely  providential, 
and  many  times  remarked  that  we  would  cer- 
tainly have  perished  but  for  seeing  the  smoke 
from  his  fire.  He  was  hunting  timber  for 
his  employers,  Gilmour  &  Co.,  of  Ottawa, 
and  was  to  start  in  two  days  down  the  Gati- 
neau for  his  headquarters  at  Desert.  If  we 
would  stay  there  until  he  started  we  were 
welcome,  he  said,  to  food  and  accommoda- 
tions, and  he  would  take  us  down  to  Desert 
in  his  canoe,  and  at  that  point  we  could  get 
Indians  to  take  us  further  on.  He  also  said 
that  he  had  intended  to  look  for  timber  on 
Filliman's  creek,  near  where  the  balloon 
would  be  found,  as  near  as  we  could  describe 
the  locality  to  him,  and  would  try  to  look  it 
up  and  make  the  attempt  to  get  it  to  Ottawa. 
This  would  be  a  long  and  tedious  operation, 
as  the  portages  are  very  numerous  between 
the  creek  and  Desert — something  over  20 — one 
of  them  three  miles  long.  Over  these  port- 
ages, of  course,  the  silk  must  be  carried  on 
the  backs  of  Indians. 


After  eating  all  I  dared  to.  and  duly  cau- 
tioning LaMountain  not  to  hurt  himself  by 
over-indulgence,  I  laid  down  to  sleep.  Be- 
fore doing  so,  I  had  one  of  the  men  remove 
my  boots,  and  when  they  came  off,  nearly  the 
whole  outer  skin  peeled  off  with  the  stock- 
ings. My  feet  had  become  parboiled  by  the 
continual  soakings  of  four  days  and  nights, 
and  it  was  fully  three  months  before  they 
were  cured. 

After  finishing  up  his  business  in  the 
vicinity  where  we  found  him,  on  Friday 
morning  (our  ninth  day  from  home),  Cameron 
started  on  his  return.  We  stopped,  on  our 
way  up  the  creek,  at  the  spot  where  we  had 
erected  our  landmark  by  which  to  find  the 
balloon.  We  struck  back  for  the  place,  and 
in  about  twenty  minutes  found  her,  impaled 
on  the  tops  of  four  smallish  spruce  trees,  and 
very  much  torn.  LaMountain  concluded  to 
abandon  her.  He  took  the  valve  as  a  me- 
mento, and  I  cut  out  the  letters  "  TIC,"  which 
had  formed  part  of  her  name,  and  brought 
the  strip  of  silk  home  with  me.  We  reached 
what  is  known  as  the  "  New  Farm  "  on  Friday 
night,  and  there  ended  our  sleeping  on  the 
ground.  Up  by  early  dawn,  and  on  again, 
through  the  drenching  rain,  reaching  Desert 
on  Saturday  evening. 

At  Desert  we  were  a  good  deal  troubled  to 
obtain  Indians  to  take  us  further  on.  La- 
Mab  McDougal  had  told  his  wife  about  the 
baloon,  and  she,  being  superstitous  and  igno- 
rant, had  gossipped  with  the  other  squaws, 
and  told  them  the  balloon  was  a  "  flying 
devil."  As  we  had  traveled  in  this  flying 
devil,  it  did  not  require  much  of  a  stretch  of 
Indian  credulity  to  believe  that  if  we  were 
not  the  Devil's  children  we  must  at  least  be 
closely  related.  In  this  extremity  we  appealed 
to    Mr.    Backus*,    a   kind-hearted    American 

*  Something  quite  curious  grew  out  of  my  naming 
Mr.  Henry  Backus  as  having  assisted  us  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Desert  river.  My  account  was  gener- 
ally published  throughout  the  country,  and  some  ten 
days  after  our  return  I  received  a  letter  from  a  lady 
in  Massachusetts  asking  me  to  describe  to  her  the 
man  Backus,  as  that  was  the  name  of  her  long- 
absent  son,  who,  twenty  years  before,  had  disap- 
peared from  home,  and  had   never  afterwards  been 


158 


A   SU UVEA' IK   OF    THE  ST.  LA  WHENCE  RIVER. 


trader,  who  agreed  to  procure  us  a  comple- 
ment of  redskins,  who  would  take  us  to 
Alexis  le  Beau's  place  (sixty  miles  down  the 
river),  where  it  was  thought  we  could  obtain 
horses.  Sunday  morning  (our  eleventh  day 
from  home),  we  started  from  Desert,  and 
reached  Alexis  le  Beau's  just  at  night.  The 
scenery  upon  this  part  of  the  route  was  sub- 
lime and  imposing.  The  primeval  forest 
stood  as  grand  and  silent  as  when  created. 
Our  Indians,  too,  surpassed  anything  I  ever 
beheld,  in  pliysical  vigor  and  endurance.  In 
the  day's  run  of  sixty  miles,  there  were  six- 
teen portages  to  be  made.  On  reaching  one 
of  these  places,  they  would  seize  the  canoe  as 
quick  as  we  stepped  out  of  it,  jerk  it  out  of 
the  water  and  on  to  their  shoulders  in  half  a 
minute,  and  start  upon  a  dog  trot  as  uncon- 
cernedly as  though  bearing  no  burthen.  Ar- 
riving at  the  foot  of  the  portage,  they  would 
toss  the  canoe  into  the  stream,  steady  it  until 
we  were  seated,  then  spring  in  and  paddle 
away,  gliding  down  the  stream  like  an  arrow. 
In  the  morning  we  traveled  fifteen  miles  and 
made  seven  portages  in  one  hour  and  forty 
minutes. 

At  Alexis  le  Beau  we  first  beheld  a  vehicle 
denominated  a  "buckboard" — a  wide,  thick 
plank  reaching  from  one  bolster  of  the  wagon 
to  the  other,  and  upon  the  middle  of  which 
plank  the  seat  was  placed.  This  sort  of  con- 
veyance is  often  used  in  new  countries,  being 
very  cheap,  and  within  the  reach  of  ordinary 
mechanical  skill.  Starting  off  as  soon  as  we 
could  get  something  to  eat,  we  travelled  all 
night  through  the  forest,  over  one  of  the  worst 
roads  ever  left  unfinished,  and  reached  Brooks' 
farm,  a  sort  of  frontier  tavern,  in  the  early 
morning,  where  we  slept   a  couple  of  hours, 


heard  from.  I  answered  the  letter  immediatelj',  and 
soon  after  learned  that  the  man  proved  to  be  her 
son,  and  that  he  had  promised  to  come  home. 
What  had  driven  him  away  from  civilization  to  live 
among  the  Indians,  w.is  best  known  to  himself. 
But  a  man  of  his  generous  impulses  might  have 
been  an  ornament  to  society,  and  a  blessing  to  his 
friends.  [This  note  was  written  the  next  week  after 
we  escaped  from  the  wilderness.  The  article 
following  this  treats  of  Backus'  cxpeiience  quite 
exhaustively.] 


and  after  breakfast  pressed  on  by  the  rough 
frontier  stage  towards  Ottawa. 

While  the  stage  was  stopping  to-day  to 
change  horses,  I  picked  up  a  newspaper  at 
Her  Britannic  Majesty's  colonial  frontier  post- 
office,  and  in  it  read  an  account  of  our  ascen- 
sion and  positive  loss,  with  a  rather  flattering 
obituary  notice  of  myself.  And  then,  for  the 
first  lime,  I  began  to  comprehend  the  degree 
of  concern  our  protracted  absence  had  aroused 
in  the  public  mind.  And  if  the  public  felt 
this  concern,  what  would  be  the  degree  of 
pain  experienced  by  wife,  children,  parents, 
friends  ?  These  reflections  spurred  us  for- 
ward—  or  rather,  our  money  induced  the 
drivers  to  hurry  up  their  horses  —  and  at  last, 
on  the  twelfth  day  of  our  absence,  at  about 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  jumped  off 
the  stage  in  front  of  the  telegraph  office  in  the 
good  city  of  Ottawa,  whence,  in  less  than  five 
minutes,  the  swift  lightning  was  speeding  a 
message  to  home  and  friends.  That  was  a 
happy  moment — the  happiest  of  all  my  life — 
when  I  knew  that  within  thirty  minutes  my 
fainily  would  know  of  my  safety. 

I  do  not  know  how  the  people  of  Ottawa 
so  soon  found  out  who  we  were — but  suppose 
the  telegraph  operator  perhaps  told  some  one  ; 
and  that  "some  one"  must  have  told  the 
whole  town,  for  in  less  than  half  an  hour 
there  was  a  tearing,  excited,  happy,  inquisi- 
tive mass  of  people  in  front  of  the  grand 
hotel  there  —  the  clerk  of  which,  when  he 
looked  at  our  ragged  clothes  and  bearded 
faces,  at  first  thought  he  "  hadn't  a  single 
room  left,"  but  who,  when  he  found  out  that 
we  were  the  lost  balloon  men,  wanted  us  to 
have  the  whole  hotel,  free  and  above  board, 
and  had  tea  and  supper  and  lunch,  and  "just 
a  little  private  supper,  you  know  !  "  following 
each  other  in  rapid,  yet  most  acceptable  suc- 
cession. The  happy  crowd  in  the  hotel  and 
upon  the  street  were  determined  to  shake 
hands  with  us  every  one,  and  nearly  all 
wanted  to  give  or  loan  us  money.  Pretty 
soon  the  newspaper  men  and  some  personal 
acquaintances  began  to  press  through  the 
crowd,  and  some  cried  while  others  laughed 
and  h"?zahed.     Indeed,  every  one  acted  as  if 


MR.  JOHN  A.   HADDOCK'S  CELEBRATED  BALLOON  VOYAGE. 


'59 


by  the  rough 

ig  to-day  to 
lewspaper  at 
frontier  post- 
of  our  ascen- 
her  flattering 
then,  for  the 
d  the  degree 
I  had  aroused 
e  public  felt 
:ie  degree  of 
Iren,  parents, 
rred  us  for- 
induced  the 
—  and  at  last, 
ice,  at  about 
'  juiTiped  off 
1  office  in  the 
less  than  five 
s  speeding  a 
That  was  a 
all  my  life — 
'  minutes  my 

e  of  Ottawa 
-but  suppose 
Id  some  one  ; 
ave  told  the 
lalf  an  hour 
ppy,  inquisi- 
f  the  grand 
:h,  when  he 
md  bearded 
n't  a  single 
nd  out  that 
.fan ted  us  to 
bove  board, 
h,  and  "  just 
'  following 
:eptable  suc- 
le  hotel  and 
d  to  shake 
I  nearly  all 
ley.  Pretty 
me  personal 
:hrough  the 
lers  laughed 
e  acted  as  if 


they  had  just  "found  something!"  And 
such  is  human  nature  always,  when  its  noble 
sympathies  are  aroused  for  the  suffering  or 
distressed. 

Although  the  president  of  the  Ottawa  and 
Prescott  Railroad  (Robert  Bell,  Esq.),  volun- 
teered to  send  us  on  by  a  special  engine  that 
night,  we  thought  it  best  (inasmuch  as  our 
friends  had  been  informed  of  our  safety),  to 
stay  at  Ottawa  until  morning.  It  did  seem  as 
though  the  generous  people  of  that  city  could 
not  do  enough  for  us,  and  their  kind  atten- 


hibit  unmistakaJjle  evidence  of  the  deep  in- 
terest felt  in  our  fate.  At  Watertown,  which 
had  been  my  home  from  boyhood,  the  enthu- 
siasm had  reached  fever  heat,  and  the  whole 
town  was  out  to  greet  the  returning  aeronauts. 
They  had  out  the  old  cannon  on  the  Public 
Scpiare,  and  it  belched  forth  the  loudest  kind 
of  a  welcome.  My  family  had,  of  course,  suf- 
fered deeply  by  my  absence.  Everybody  had 
given  us  up  for  dead,  except  my  wife.  I  felt 
very  cheap  about  the  whole  thing,  and  was 
quite  certain   that  I  had  done  a  very  foolish 


BAY    IN   I.A    RTIF,    TSLANH,   CANADIAN    CHANNEL. 


tion  and  disinterested  enthusiasm  will  never 
be  forgotten. 

Well,  the  next  morning  we  left  Ottawa,  and 
were  quickly  carried  to  Prescott;  thence 
across  the  St.  Lawrence  river  to  Ogdensburg. 
Here  a  repetition  of  the  same  friendly  greet- 
ings took  place  ;  and  at  last,  after  a  hearty 
dinner,  we  left  for  home,  now  distant  only 
seventv-five  miles  by  rail.  All  along  the  line 
of  the  road  we  found  enthusiastic  crowds 
awaiting  our  coming,  and  all  seemed  to  ex- 


act. Not  so  the  people  —  they  thought  it  a 
big  thing  to  have  gone  through  with  so  much, 
and  yet  come  out  alive. 


Several  general  conclusions  and  remarks 
shall  terminate  this  narrative,  already  too 
long.  "Why  did  you  permit  yourselves  to  go 
so  far  ? "  will  naturally  be  asked.  To  this 
inquiry  I  reply  :  that  the  wind  was  exceed- 
ingly light  when  we  ascended  ;  that  we  were 
very  soon  among  the  clouds,  and  consequently 


i6o 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


unable  to  take  cognizance  of  our  course,  or  to 
judge  how  fast  we  were  travelling.  It  should 
be  distinctly  understood  that  when  you  are 
sailing  in  a  balloon,  you  are  unconscious  of 
motion  and  progress,  unless  you  can  see  the 
earth.  Even  when  you  first  leave  the  earth, 
you  seem  to  be  stationary,  while  the  earth  ap- 
pears to  drop  away  from  you.  Nor  can  you, 
when  out  of  sight  of  the  earth,  although  you 
may  have  a  compass,  judge  of  the  direction 
you  are  travelling,  if  travelling  at  all.  In  a 
few  words,  unless  you  can  see  the  earthy  you 
(annot  tell  how  fast  nor  in  what  direction  you 
are  travelling.  This,  perhaps,  better  than 
anything  else  will  explain  why  we  uncon- 
sciously drifted  off  to  latitudes  so  remote. 
When  we  arose  above  the  thick  mass  of  clouds, 
before  sundown,  we  undoubtedly  struck  a 
rapid  current  that  carried  us  north-east,  and 
after  we  had  travelled  in  this  current  about  an 


hour,  we  probably  struck  anotner  current, 
from  the  variation  of  our  altitude,  which  bore 
us  off  to  the  north-west,  for  the  place  where 
we  landed  is  about  thirty  miles  west  of  due 
north  from  where  we  ascended. 

When  we  first  descended  near  the  earth,  and 
saw  lights  and  heard  dogs  barking,  we  should 
have  landed.  But  we  were  unwilling  to  land 
at  night  in  a  deep  wood,  even  though  we  knew 
that  inhabitants  were  near  by,  and  we  thought 
it  best  to  pick  out  a  better  place.  This  was 
our  error  ;  and  it  came  near  being  a  fatal  one 
to  us  — it  was  certainly  so  to  the  balloon. 
In  trying  to  find  our  "  better  place  "  to  land, 
we  were  up  longer  than  we  supposed,  and  as 
we  were  travelling  in  a  current  that  bore  us 
off  to  the  northward  at  the  rate  of  loo  miles 
an  hour,  we  soon  reached  a  point  beyond  the 
confines  of  civilization. 


THE  AWAKENING  OF  HENRY   BACKUS. 


A  ROMANCE  OF  THE  BALLOON  JOURNEY  OF  HADDOCK  AND  LA  MOUNTAIN. 


IN  the  preceding  account  of  the  balloon  voy- 
age made  by  LaMountain  an  J  Haddock 
into  the  Bos-ke-tong  wilderness  of  Canada  in 
September,  1859,  allusion  was  made  by  the 
writer  to  one  Henry  Backus.  The  early  his- 
tory of  this  man  and  the  peculiar  manner  in 
which  he  was  restored  to  civilized  society  iind 
to  his  mother,  from  whom  he  had  foolishly 
separated  himself  twenty  years  before,  forms 
a  story  which  would  be  called  a  "  romance  " 
were  it  not  founded  upon  actual  facts. 

LaMountain  and  myself  made  our  balloon 
ascension  from  Watertown,  N.  Y. ,  and  were 
carried  by  a  swift  northerly  current  far  beyond 
the  bounds  of  civilization,  landing  in  that  im- 
mense forest  in  Canada,  which  is  larger  than 
the  great  States  of  New  York.  Pennsylvania 
and  Ohio  combined,  and  limited  on  the  north 
only  by  Labrador  and  the  Arctic  circle. 
Having  been  rescued  from  starvation  and 
probable  death  by  the  brave  Cameron  and  his 
Indian  guides,  whom  we  providentially  en- 
countered, we  had  reached,  on  our  way  "  out 


of  the  wilderness,"  that  frontier  post  of  tht; 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  known  as  Desert, 
where  we  were  detained  by  inability  to  pro- 
cure Indians  for  the  further  prosecution  of 
our  journey,  because  one  of  Cameron's  In- 
dians, who  lived  at  Desert  had  circulated  a 
story  among  his  associates  that  we  had  come 
into  that  wilderness  in  a  "flying  devil,"  whicli 
had  fallen  from  the  sky.  Naturally  supersti- 
tious and  densely  ignorant,  these  boatmen 
readily  concluded  that  we  were  really  children 
of  the  Devil  himself,  and  undesirable  people 
to  work  for,  even  if  well  paid.  We  were  very 
impatient  at  the  detention,  and  Cameron,  who 
could  take  us  no  farther  towards  Ottawa,  ad- 
vised us  to  consult  one  Henry  Backus,  the 
local  trader,  who  might  be  able  to  help  us,  for 
he  sold  ''  fire-water  "  to  the  Indians  and  had 
great  influence  with  them.  To  Backus'  little 
store,  then,  we  went,  ana  found  him  some- 
what hard  to  approach,  as  if  he  were  suspi- 
cious of  any  attem|)t  at  intimacy;  but  when 
we  told  him  our  trouble  and  urgently  solicited 


THE  AWAKENING  OF  HENRY  BACKUS. 


i6i 


ner  current, 

!,  which  bore 

place  where 

west  of  due 

be  earth,  and 
g,  we  should 
ling  to  land 
ugh  we  knew 
1  we  thought 
e.  This  was 
g  a  fatal  one 
the  balloon. 
:e"  to  land, 
osed,  and  as 
that  bore  us 
of  loo  miles 
t  beyond  the 


post   of  the; 

as  Desert, 
ility  to  pro- 
osecution  of 
meron's  In- 
circulated  a 
e  had  come 
evil,"  whicli 
.lly  supersti- 
se  boatmen 
illy  children 
able  people 
e  were  very 
imeron,  who 
Ottawa,  ad- 
Backus,  the 

help  us,  for 
ns  and  had 
ackus'  little 

him  some- 
were  suspi- 
;  but  when 
tly  solicited 


his  good  offices,  he  appeared  anxious  and  will- 
ing to  aid  us.  He  struck  me  as  being  too  in- 
telligent and  well  educated  for  the  position  he 
was  filling,  as  a  small  trader  in  so  remote  a 
place,  but  we  were  too  much  concerned  with 
our  own  plans  for  reaching  civilization  to 
scrutinize  him  very  closely.  He  knew  just 
how  to  deal  with  the  ignorant  river  men,  and 
soon  had  a  crew  selected  who  promised  to  de- 
part with  us  at  early  daybreak,  so  that  we 
might  reach  Alexis-le-Beau  before  nightfall. 
The  promise  was  redeemed,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing we  departed,  and  Backus  saw  us  no  more, 
but  from  one  of  us  he  was  yet  to  hear. 


Who  was  Henry  Backus.'  To  answer  this 
inquiry  I  must  take  the  reader  back  more  than 
fifty  years,  to  1837,  when  there  lived  in 
Western  Massachusetts  a  family  named  Han- 
cock, consisting  of  the  parents  and  two 
daughters,  sixteen  and  eighteen  years  of  age, 
the  elder  named  Mabel,  the  youngest  Harriet. 
It  is  with  Mabel  we  have  more  particularly  to 
deal.  She  was  above  the  average  in  beauty 
of  person,  bright  and  engaging,  and,  like 
most  of  her  sex,  well  aware  of  her  good 
points,  and  not  by  any  means  unmindful  of 
the  admiration  she  elicited  from  the  young 
men  of  her  neighborhood.  As  a  result,  she 
was  often  invited  to  the.  merry-makings  of 
that  section,  accompanied  sometimes  by  one, 
sometimes  by  another  young  gentleman  —  but 
for  a  long  time  she  gave  none  of  her  admirers 
any  special  preference.  In  her  twentieth  year, 
when  the  heart  is  said  to  be  the  most  suscep- 
tible, she  had  two  admirers  who  had  dis- 
tanced her  hitherto  numerous  gallants,  and 
whenever  she  went  to  church  or  to  the  country 
parties,  one  or  the  other  of  these  was  always 
her  attendant.  Henry  Backus,  one  of  these 
young  men,  was  rather  a  silent  and  reserved, 
but  really  handsome  young  man  of  twenty- 
two,  well-educated  in  the  country  schools, 
active  and  enterprising,  the  comfort  of  his 
mother,  who  was  a  widow  and  the  owner  of  a 
good  farm,  left  her  by  her  husband.  Henry 
was  somewhat  in  appearance  like  an  Indian, 
tall  and  dark-skinned,  and  there  was  a  tradi- 
tion that  the  Backus  family,  a  hundred  years 


before,  had  been  crossed  by  Narraganset 
blood. 

Be  that  as  it  may,  Henry  was  observant  but 
silent,  seldom  gay  and  never  frivolous,  but  he 
was  popular  among  his  companions,  who  gave 
him  their  full  confidence,  for  they  knew  he 
meant  all  he  said,  and  that  his  word  was  as 
good  as  most  other  men's  bond.  His  com- 
petitor in  Mabel's  good  graces  was  equally 
regarded,  but  in  a  different  way.  Witty, 
agreeable,  full  of  vivacity  and  animal  spirits, 
James  Atwell  was  the  life  of  every  social  gath- 
ering, greatly  admired  by  the  girls,  and  wel- 
come in  every  circle.  Although  a  year  older 
than  Henry  Backus,  he  had  not  yet  settled 
down  to  any  serious  pursuit,  which,  in  his 
case,  was  thought  to  be  a  necessity,  as  his 
father  had  never  accumulated  more  than  a 
mere  subsistence.  James  had  twice  left  home, 
and  had  spent  a  whole  year  in  a  dry  goods 
store  at  Worcester,  Mass.,  but  he  had  given 
up  that  business  as  too  confining.  He  had 
also  taught  the  district  school  one  winter,  but 
was  thought  deficient  in  discipline,  and  was 
not  asked  to  teach  a  second  time.  While 
nothing  could  be  said  against  him,  the  older 
people  rated  him  much  below  Backus  in  pros- 
pective usefulness  and  position.  The  girls 
considered  him  as  "just  too  nice  for  any- 
thing," but  thought,  and  some  of  them  said, 
that  Henry  Backus  was  "  an  old  cross-patch." 
They  unanimously  predicted  that  James  At- 
well would  have  a  "  walk-over  "  in  the  contest 
for  supremacy  in  Mabel's  affections.  But  this 
prediction  did  not  have  any  speedy  fulfilment, 
as  both  the  young  men  were  equally  well  re- 
ceived at  the  Hancock  mansion,  and  so  a 
whole  year  wore  away  without  any  material 
change  in  the  relation  of  these  young  people 
to  one  another,  but  close  observers  saw  that 
Backus  was  wonderfully  smitten  with  Mabel,  a 
fact  which  he  did  not  try  to  conceal.  Yet  it 
gave  his  mother  considerable  concern,  for  she 
well  knew  the  intensity  of  his  nature,  and  how 
restless  he  became  under  even  slight  disap- 
pointments. 

A  change,  however,  was  soon  to  come. 
While  returning  from  a  dancing  party  in  the 
winter  of  1838,  Henry  proposed,  and  was  at 


1 62 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


least  partially  accepted  by  Mabel  as  her  future 
husband,  At  her  request  the  partial  agree- 
ment was  to  be  kept  a  secret,  much  against 
Henry's  wish,  but  he  loved  the  girl  too  much 
to  deny  her  anything.  While  this  understand- 
ing was  being  faithfully  observed  between 
I  hem,  invitations  came  for  the  grand  winter 
wind-up  dancing  party,  to  be  held  at  the 
county  town,  and  Henry  was  duly  accepted  as 
Mabel's  escort  thither.  When  the  evening  of 
the  party  drew  on,  he  started  in  his  sleigh  for 
his  companion,  but  the  snow  was  deep,  and  in 
trying  to  turn  out  for  a  loaded  team  his  cutter 
was  upset,  himself  thrown  out,  and  the  horse 
ran  away.  It  took  fully  two  hours  to  recover 
the  horse  and  reach  the  Hancock  mansion, 
and  then  only  to  find  that  Mabel  had  become 
tired  of  the  delay,  and,  in  a  moment  of  pique, 
had  accepted  James  Atwell's  proffered  escort 
and  gone  to  the  dance  with  him.  Backus  was 
thunderstruck,  and  finally  burst  into  a  passion 
of  tears,  due  as  much,  probably,  to  the  excite- 
ment he  had  just  passed  through,  as  to  the 
unexpected  departure  of  Mabel  with  his  rival. 
His  jealousy  was  terribly  aroused,  and  he  at 
once  reached  the  conclusion  that  his  delay  had 
been  gladly  taken  advantage  of  by  her  in 
order  to  accept  the  company  of  one  whom 
she  loved  more  than  himself.  He  did  not  go 
to  the  dance,  nor  would  he  make  much  reply 
to  Mrs.  Hancock's  trembling  efforts  to  put 
Mable's  action  in  a  favorable  light,  but  went 
straight  home  and  made  such  explanations  as 
he  could  to  his  tearful  mother.  Talk  as  she 
might,  she  could  not  move  him  from  a  sullen 
fit  of  depression,  which  the  night  did  not  wear 
away,  and  in  the  morning  he  harnessed  his 
horse  and  drove  away,  with  a  determination  to 
have  a  final  understanding  with  Mabel.  He 
demanded  that  their  betrothment  should  be 
made  public,  and  be  sanctioned  by  her  parents. 
That  young  lady  bore  herself  during  the  inter- 
view with  considerable  independence,  declar- 
ing herself  as  satisfied  with  what  she  had  done, 
and  captiously  declined  to  ask  her  parents  to 
ratify  their  engagement,  which  she  declared 
was  not  considered  as  final,  but  rather  as  a 
matter  subject  to  further  contingencies,  in  all  of 
which  she  developed  a  feminine  spirit  of  conten- 


tion so  characteristic  of  that  sex.  After  much 
talk  and  expostulation  they  parted  in  anger, 
utterly  estranged  —  she  most  likely  believing 
that  it  would  result  in  a  lover's  reconciliation, 
and  never  dreaming  that  she  would  not  soon 
see  Henry  Backus  again.  But  with  him  the 
case  was  closed.  He  felt  that  he  had  loved 
and  lost,  and  that,  in  the  eyes  of  his  acquaint- 
ances, he  had  been  made  a  fool  of  by  a  heart- 
less woman.  His  fine  sleigh  was  not  used 
again  that  winter.  The  social  parties  missed 
him,  and  as  the  trouble  between  the  lovers 
gradually  came  out  (but  though  never  a  word 
from  him),  the  country  people  took  two  sides 
in  discussing  the  matter,  nearly  all  the  women 
upholding  Henry;  and  the  men,  more  gallant, 
taking  the  part  of  Mabel.  But  she,  too,  went 
no  more  abroad,  refusing  even  to  see  James 
Atwell,  though  he  both  called  and  wrote. 
Doubtless,  like  many  another,  she  felt  a  secret 
desire  to  repossess  what  she  had  recklessly 
thrown  away,  and  felt  too'proud  to  make  any 
effort  towards  a  reconciliation. 

Try  as  he  would,  young  Backus  failed  to 
take  his  former  interest  in  life.  His  mother's 
tearful  face  would  at  times  force  him  to  active 
exertion  on  their  farm,  but  it  was  plain  to  be 
seen  that  his  spirit  was  broken,  and  that  a 
sullen  despondency  had  taken  possession  of 
his  mind.  Having  struggled  along  through 
the  summer's  work  and  the  harvesting,  he 
besought  his  mother  to  let  him  hire  a  steady 
young  man  to  do  the  farm  work,  and  then  be 
allowed  to  go  away  for  a  while.  His  mother, 
thinking  a  change  of  scene  would  help  her 
son,  reluctantly  gave  her  consent,  and  late  in 
November,  Henry  left  his  home  to  become  a 
wanderer.  But  travel  as  long  and  as  far  as 
he  could,  he  found  it  impossible  to  get  rid  of 
himself.  His  burden  would  not  be  cast  off. 
For  a  month  he  remained  at  Albany,  and  then 
went  north  to  Watertown,  Prescott  and 
Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  and  finally  to  Ottawa,  in 
Canada.  The  Indian  strain  of  blood,  which 
it  was  said  he  had  inherited,  began  definitely 
to  assert  itself,  more  vigorously,  perhaps,  at 
the  sight  of  the  adjacent  forests,  and  he  re- 
solved to  leave  civilization  behind  him  and 
forget  that  busy  world  where  he   had   been 


THE  A  WAKENING  OF  HENR  Y  BACKUS. 


i6i 


After  niiich 
d  in  anger, 
ly  believing 
conciliation, 
Id  not  soon 
ith  him  the 
:  had  loved 
is  acquaint- 
by  a  heart- 
s  not  used 
•ties  missed 
the  lovers 
ever  a  word 
k  two  sides 
the  women 
ore  gallant, 
;,  too,  went 
see  James 
and  wrote. 
Felt  a  secret 
[  recklessly 
o  make  any 

IS  failed  to 
is  mother's 
im  to  active 
)lain  to  be 
and  that  a 
issession  of 
ng  through 
vesting,  he 
e  a  steady 
nd  then  be 
lis  mother, 
help  her 
and  late  in 

become  a 
i  as  far  as 
)  get  rid  of 
)e  cast  off. 
y,  and  then 
scott  and 
Ottawa,  in 
ood,  which 

definitely 

Derhaps,  at 

and  he  re- 

him   and 

had   been 


so  sadly  deceived,    and  with  which  he  now 
had  so  little  affiliation. 

Those  who  have  visited  Ottawa  will  remem- 
ber the  dense  forest  which  environs  that 
delightful  city  beyond  the  rapid  river  towards 
the  north.  Within  a  few  miles  of  this  Cana- 
dian capital  you  can  readily  lose  yourself  in 
the  dense  growth  of  trees  ;  and  into  this  then 
almost  unbroken  wilderness  Henry  Backus 
launched  himself,  fully  resolved  never  again 
to  live  among  civilized  men.  Farther  and 
farther  he  journeyed,  until  the  stage  route 
dwindled  to  mere  "  buckboard  "  travel,  then 
to  solitary  paths  marked  by  blazed  trees,  until 
Alexis-le-Beau,  upon  the  Upper  Gatineau,  was 
reached,  and  then  up  that  rapid  stream  he 
pressed  a  hundred  miles  to  Desert,  which  was 
a  mere  fringe  of  clearing  in  that  almost  un- 
broken primeval  forest.  There  Backus  passed 
tlie  late  spring  and  summer.  Gradually  the 
need  of  employment  for  his  mind  and  strength 
asserted  itself,  and  he  built  a  small  log  cabin 
with  store-room  in  front,  and  began  to  trade 
with  the  Indians  for  their  furs.  When  winter 
came  on  he  made  a  journey  out  from  the 
woods  to  Ottawa,  where  he  perfected  an  ar- 
rangement for  the  annual  sale  of  his  peltry 
and  for  a  regular  consignment  to  him  of  such 
goods  as  his  trade  at  Desert  demanded.  He 
was  gone  a  month,  and  on  his  return  took  up 
his  daily  life  as  before,  a  solitary,  independ- 
ent, silent  man.  I  leave  the  imagination  of 
the  reader  to  depict  his  feelings,  his  yearn- 
ings for  his  mother,  his  moments  of  frantic 
love  for  Mabel  Hancock,  his  resolve  to  break 
the  spell  that  was  upon  him  and  return  to  his 
old  home  and  friends,  and  for  the  reader  to 
comprehend  the  depth  of  a  nature  that  could 
endure  in  silence  a  disappointment  so  bitter. 
For  a  long  time  Mrs.  Backus  expected  to 
see  Henry  walk  into  the  house  almost  any 
day.  She  managed  her  farm  much  better 
than  she  had  expected,  saving  somethmg 
every  year.  After  five  years  had  passed,  she 
lost  faith  in  Henry's  return,  and  almost  gave 
him  up  as  dead.  She  fell  sick,  and  was  in 
bed  for  a  long  time  ;  then  it  was  that  Mabel 
Hancock  developed  the  good  that  was  in  her. 
Humbly  she  went  to  the  sick  woman's  bed- 


side, confessed  her  undying  love  for  Henry, 
took  all  the  blame  upon  herself  for  his  de- 
parture and  long  absence,  and  volunteered  to 
nurse  Mrs.  Backus  through  her  sickness.  At 
first  she  was  not  at  all  drawn  towards  the  girl, 
but  her  remorse  and  self-condemnation  so 
plainly  attested  her  sincerity  that  she  was  per- 
mitted to  remain.  She  soon  became  a  perma- 
nent fixture  at  Henry's  old  home,  and  so  won 
the  mother's  heart  that  they  never  separated. 
Jointly  they  managed  the  farm,  and  became 
so  knit  together  by  mutual  regard  that 
strangers  looked  upon  them  as  mother  and 
daughter.  James  Atwell  had  married  Har- 
riet and  they  had  moved  away,  but  Mabel  did 
not  attend  her  sister's  wedding.  Woman- 
like, she  cast  upon  Atwell  most  of  the  blame 
for  the  unfortunate  separation  from  her  lover, 
when,  in  fact,  she  was  the  one  mainly  at 
fault,  though  there  were  those  who  thought 
Henry  Backus  himself  not  without  grave 
responsibility  for  the  turn  afTairs  had  taken. 
And  so  the  years  wore  on  until  Mabel  was 
nearly  40  years  of  age  —  comely  in  figure,  but 
with  a  sad  face,  seldom  lit  by  a  smile.  Her 
constant  prayer  was  that  she  might  be  able 
to  pay  back  to  Henry's  mother  that  fealty 
and  support  which  had  been  lost  when  an  un- 
wise and  needless  quarrel  had  driven  away 
her  son. 


The  coming  of  the  balloon  men  made  an 
abiding  impression  upon  Backus.  He  felt  a 
return  of  that  longing  for  home  which  he 
thought  he  had  entirely  conquered.  He  even 
found  himself  full  of  self-accusation,  because 
he  had  not  volunteered  to  personally  accom- 
pany them  to  Ottawa,  for  from  there  he  could 
have  telegraphed  or  written  to  his  mother. 
He  found  it  difficult  to  put  aside  the  influence 
these  two  eager,  pushing  men  had  exerted 
upon  him.  They  were  resolutely  bent  upon 
returning  to  that  civilization,  he  had  been  so 
willing  to  leave,  and  he  began  to  feel  a  con- 
viction that  they  were  right  in  their  course 
and  that  he  had  been  wrong  in  his.  For  three 
weeks  this  struggle  went  on  in  his  heart  until 
he  began  to  realize  the  selfishness  and  folly  of 
his   course.     He   felt   like   loathing   his   sur- 


164 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


■A* 


roundingti  as  wliolly  unworthy  one  who  liad  in 
his  youth  given  such  ample  promise  of  useful- 
ness and  honor.  Hard  as  was  the  struggle, 
however,  and  much  as  he  felt  the  value  of 
what  he  had  too  ruthlessly  cast  away  20  years 
before,  it  might  have  been  doubtful  what 
course  he  would  ultimately  have  taken  had 
not  Providence  unmistakably  warned  him  that 
he  was  trifling  with  his  own  best  interests,  to 
say  nothing  of  his  disregard  of  filial  duty. 

About  the  middle  of  October,  1859,  a  party 
of  river  men,  on  their  way  up  from  Alexis-le- 
Beau,  the  nearest  postoffice,  brought  him  a 
letter,  which  may  have  read  as  follows  : 

At  Home,  Octohtr  10,  1859. 

Mv  Dear  Son,  if  indeed  you  are  my  son  :  I  read 
last  week  in  the  Springfield  Rtpublican  an  account  of 
the  adventures  of  the  lost  balloon  men,  who  gave 
credit  to  one  Henry  Backus,  a  trader  at  Desert,  on 
the  Gatineau  river,  in  Canada,  for  having  aided  them 
in  their  efforts  to  return  to  their  homes.  My  heart 
prompted  me  to  write  to  Mr.  Haddock,  at  Water- 
town,  N.  Y.,  for  a  description  of  this  Henry  Backus, 
and  Mr.  H.  immediately  answered  my  letter.  Mak- 
ing full  allowance  for  the  changes  20  years  may  have 
made,  I  feel  quite  hopeful  that  you  are  my  long  lost 
and  deeply  mourned  son.  If  so,  do  not  delay  an 
hour,  but  come  home  before  it  is  too  late  to  see  your 
poor  mother,  now  past  her  both  year,  but  whose 
prayer  has  ever  been  for  her  absent  son. 

Mabel  Hancock  has  lived  with  me  for  the  past  18 
years.  She  is  my  stay  and  greatest  comfort,  and  she 
desires  me  to  enclose  a  word  from  her,  for  we  are 
more  and  more  convinced  that  you  are  my  lost  son. 
My  heart  is  too  full  to  write  more,  but  if  you  are  my 
son  hasten  to  my  arms,  for  a  fresh  disappointment 
or  long  delay  may  prove  too  much  for  my  poor 
strength.     Affectionately,  your  mother, 

Rachel  Backus, 

The  note  enclosed  was  fronri  Mabel;  it  read: 
Dearest  Friend  —  If  you  are  that  Henry  Backus 
to  whom  I  was  once  betrothed  in  marriage,  I  feel 
that  I  owe  much  in  the  way  of  apology  for  the  treat- 
ment you  received  at  my  hands  when  I  was  a  young 
and  inexperienced  girl.  My  past  life  I  offer  as  an 
evidence  of  my  feelings  towards  you  then  and  now  ; 
yet  that  life  for  many  years  has  been  a  burden, 
which  I  could  only  have  borne  for  your  dear 
mother's  sake.  If  you  are  the  lost  one  you  cannot 
be  too  quick  in  hastening  to  your  true  home,  for 
your  mother  is  not  long  for  this  world. 

Your  attached  friend, 

Mabel  Hancock. 


If  Backus  had  b;.en  tardy  in  carrying  out 
the  plans  which  the  coming  of  the  lost  l)allo()n 
inen  appeared  to  prompt,  he  was  on  fire  now 
with  impatience,  and  counted  every  hour  as 
lost  that  kept  him  from  the  telegraph.  Plac- 
ing a  trusted  clerk  in  charge  of  his  business, 
he  packed  up  his  important  papers,  and,  on 
the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  was  in  Ottawa, 
sending  a  message  to  distant  Berkshire  that 
he  was  indeed  the  lost  son,  who  had  come  to 
himself  and  would  soon  be  there. 


Having  thus  far  dealt  in  facts,  I  will  inviti' 
the  reader  himself  to  imagine  that  meeting, 
when  Backus  found  under  the  same  roof  his 
beloved  mother  and  that  Mabel  Hancock  who 
was  thenceforth  to  reign  as  the  undisputed 
idol  of  his  heart.  The  natural  inclination  ot 
a  newspaper  editor  to  follow  out  any  incident 
of  more  than  passing  interest  with  which  he 
had  become  interested,  impelled  me  to  make 
inquiry  of  Backus'  subsequent  career,  as  well 
as  of  all  that  might  shed  any  light  upon  his 
history  before  we  met  him  at  Desert.  On  the 
ist  of  January  following  his  return,  he  and 
Mabel  Hancock  were  married,  and  the  whole 
neighborhood  shared  in  the  merry-making. 
He  soon  sold  his  possession  at  Desert,  and 
settled  down  in  a  prosperous  career,  becoming 
a  leading  citizen  of  his  native  county.  Him- 
self and  wife  were  noted  for  their  hospitality 
and  open-handed  charity,  and  it  was  especi- 
ally remarked  that  they  were  exceedingly 
lenient  in  their  treatment  of  anyone  who  had 
lapsed  from  duty  or  against  whom  society 
held  its  doors  askance.  The  poor  and  the 
outcast  found  ready  sympathy  with  them,  and 
no  hungry  wayfarer  was  ever  sent  away  un- 
filled. 

The  casual  reader  may  not  be  much  im- 
pressed with  the  extraordinary  means  through 
which  Henry  Backus  came  to  be  thus  "  awak- 
ened "  to  his  true  condition,  but  those  who 
take  a  broader  view  of  these  incidents  can, 
perhaps,  discover  in  them  the  workings  of  that 
Supreme  Omniscience  which  notes  even  the 
fall  of  a  sparrow. 


arrying  out 
lost  balluon 
on  fire  now 
!ry  hour  as 
iph.  Plac- 
is  business, 
5rs,  and,  on 
in  Ottawa, 
rkshire  that 
id  come  to 


[  will  invite 
It  meeting, 
ne  roof  iiis 
incock  who 
undisputed 
:lination  ot 
ny  incident 
;h  which  he 
ne  to  make 
eer,  as  well 
It  upon  his 
rt.  On  the 
rn,  he  an<l 
i  the  whole 
ry-making. 
Desert,  and 
•,  becoming 
ity.  Him- 
hospitality 
ivas  especi- 
xceedingly 
le  who  had 
om  society 
or  and  the 
I  them,  and 
away  un- 

much  im- 
ins  through 
lus  "  awak- 

those  who 
idents  can, 
ings  of  that 
s  even  the 


THE  WAR  OF   1755. 


WITH  AN  ALLUSION  TO  THE  "LOST  CHANNEL."- 


/^THE  most  formidable  military  display 
T^  which  ever  swept  over  the  waters  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  was  that  of  1760,  commanded 
by  Gen.  Jeffrey  Lord  Amherst.  It  consisted, 
according  to  Knox,  of  the  ist  and  2d  battal- 
ions of  the  Royal  Highlanders,  the  44th, 
46th,  and  55th  regiments  of  the  line,  the  4th 
ijattalion  of  the  60th,  eight  companies  of  the 
77th,  five  companies  of  ic  80th,  579  Gren- 
adiers, 597  Light  Infantry,  three  battalions  of 
the  New  York  regiment,  four  battalions  of  the 
Connecticut  regiment,  a  regiment  from  New 
Jersey,  146  Rangers,  157  of  the  Royal  Artil- 
lery, and  a  force  of  Indians  under  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  the  whole  amounting  to  an 
effective  force  of  10,142  men.  The  trans- 
portation for  this  army,  consisted  of  two 
armed  vessels,  the  Onondaga  and  the  Mo- 
hawk; the  first,  under  the  immediate  com- 
mand of  Capt.  John  Loring,  who  was  also 
admiral  of  the  fleet,  was  armed  with  four 
nine-pounders,  and  fourteen  sixes,  with  a 
crew  of  100  men.  The  second  carried  sixteen 
sixes,  and  a  crew  of  ninety  men;  and  in  addi- 
tion to  these,  there  were  seventy-two  whale- 
boats,  and  177  batteaux.  Several  of  the 
whaleboats  were  armed  with  a  gun  each,  and 
some  of  the  batteaux  carried  howitzers.  Be- 
sides these,  there  were  staff,  hospital  and 
sutler's  boats,  the  whole  to  quote  from  a 
writer  of  that  time,  who  was  an  eye  witness, 
"making  a  most  imposing  array." 

The  primary  object  of  the  expedition,  was 
the  capture  of  Montreal,  it  being  one  of  three 
set  on  foot  for  that  purpose;  but  its  imme- 
diate destination  was  Fort  Levis,  a  strong 
French  fortification  the  ruins  of  which  are  yet 


to  be  seen,  on  what  is  now  called  "  Chimney 
Island,"  in  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  a  few 
miles  below  Ogdensburg,  which  was  known  to 
the  French  as  "La  Presentation."  At  that 
time,  Fort  Levis,  was  the  only  French  strong- 
hold above  Montreal,  and  its  reduction  was  a 
military  necessity.  The  fort,  according  to  the 
historian  Mante,  was  begun  early  in  1759,  by 
Chevalier  de  Levis,  who  was  afterward  a  Mar- 
shal of  France,  and  completed  by  Captain 
Pouchot,  by  whom  it  was  so  ably  defended. 
This  officer  arrived  at  the  fort  in  March,  and 
proceeded  to  put  it  in  as  complete  a  condition 
for  defense  as  was  possible  with  the  means  at 
hand.  On  taking  command,  he  found  it  gar- 
risoned by  150  militia,  six  Canadian  officers, 
some  colonial  cadets,  and  M'Bertrand  an  offi- 
cer of  artillery.  A  reinforcement  of  100  men 
was  sent  him  from  below,  but  of  these,  twenty 
soon  deserted,  carrying  away  with  them  the 
batteaux  belonging  to  the  fort.  One  of  these 
deserters  was  a  lad  named  Pierre  Rigand.  A 
few  days  later  his  father  brought  him  back, 
feeling  deeply  the  disgrace  consequent  upon 
having  a  son  who  was  a  deserter. 

It  would  be  a  pleasure  to  find  that  Capt. 
Pouchot's  Memoirs,  in  which  this  incident  is 
related,  has  been  able  to  add  that  the  young 
man  fought  bravely,  wiped  out  the  disgrace  of 
desertion  and  returned  to  the  arms  of  his 
father,  who  not  only  forgave  him  but  received 
him  with  open  arms  and  affectionate  pride; 
but  they  do  not.  They  only  state  that :  "  In 
the  battle  which  foUov/ed,  Pierre  Rigand  was 
killed." 

As  it  is  no  part  of  our  intention  to  enter 
into  a  minute  description  of  the  investment 


i66 


A  SOUVENTR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


and  capture  of  the  fort,  we  shall  content  our- 
selves with  a  description  of  the  expedition  as 
related  by  its  historian,  in  its  progress  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  river.  On  the  7th  of  August, 
1760,  Capt.  Loring  with  his  two  vessels  sailed 
from  Oswego  for  Grenadier  Island,  at  the  foot 
of  Lake  Ontario.  Following  in  boats  were 
the  Royal  Highlanders  and  Grenadiers,  com- 
manded by  Lieut.  Col.  Massey;  the  light  in- 
fantry under  Lieut.  Col.  Amherst,  with  two 
companies  of  .Rangers,  the  whole  under  the 
command  of  Colonel  Haldimand,  who  after- 
ward succeeded  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  as  Gover- 
nor-General and  Commander-in-Chief  in 
Canada.  On  the  loth,  Gen.  Amherst  himself 
embarked  with  the  remainder  of  the  troops, 
being  joined  the  next  day  by  Gen.  Gage  with 
the  Provincial  troops,  among  which  was  a 
Connecticut  regiment  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.-Col.,  afterward  Brigadier-Gen.  Israel 
Putnam.  On  the  13th  of  August,  1760,  the 
whole  army  was  encamped  on  Grenadier 
Island,  and  their  boats  safely  moored  in  Basin 
Harbor. 

By  noon  of  the  14th,  everything  was  in 
readiness  to  move,  and  the  troops  were  ordered 
to  get  their  dinners  and  then  embark  at  once. 
At  two  o'clock  they  were  sweeping  down  the 
south  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  two 
lines  of  boats  *vhich  reached  almost  from 
shore  to  shore.  It  was  an  inspiring  sight. 
The  long  lines  of  boats,  decorated  with  flags 
and  streamers  and  guidons,  the  rowers  keep- 
ing time  with  their  oars  to  the  music  of  the 
military  bands,  relieved  at  times  by  the  bugles 
of  the  Grenadiers  and  the  pipes  of  the  Scotch 
Highlanders,  while  the  two  vessels,  the  Onon- 
daga and  Mohawk,  led  the  advance. 

But  the  French  were  not  asleep.  For  some 
time  a  squad  of  soldiers,  under  the  command 
of  a  lieutenant,  had  been  stationed  on  Isle  aux 
Chevreuils,  now  Carlton  Island,  from  the 
high  grounds  of  which  a  splendid  view  of  the 
lake  is  to  be  had,  as  a  corps  of  observation. 
With  this  squad  was  a  small  body  of  Indian 
scouts,  one  or  two  of  whom,  in  swift  canoes, 
were  detached  at  intervals  to  the  fort  below 
to  warn  its  commander  of  the  approach  of  the 
English  army.     Waiting  until  the  entire  fleet 


had  entered  the  river,  so  that  there  was  no 
longer  any  doubt  as  to  its  destination,  tlie 
lieutenant  and  his  men  went  on  board  a 
batteau,  and  rowed  away  down  the  river.  It 
was  this  batteau  which  led  Capt.  Loring  of 
the  Onondaga  into  trouble.  But  we  will  let 
an  extract  from  the  journal,  kept  by  the  gal- 
lant captain,  tell,  the  tale: 

"Aug.  14th. —  This  afternoon  the  entire  fleet  set 
sail,  and  at  three  of  the  clock  was  well  within  the 
south  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  near  the 
island  called,  by  the  French,  Isle  aux  Chevreuil,  and 
by  us  Buck  Island,  from  the  foot  of  which  the  look- 
out at  the  masthead  discovered  a  batteau  loaded 
with  French  soldiers  put  off,  when  I  knew  at  once 
that  the  enemy  had  knowledge  of  the  expedition, 
and  though  the  wind  was  light,  I  signalled  the  Mo- 
hawk and  gave  chase,  hoping  to  get  the  batteau 
within  range  of  my  bow  guns,  but  which  I  failed  to 
do.  The  Onondaga  was  now  nearly  a  league  ahead 
of  the  Mohawk,  and  the  flotilla  was  yet  another 
league  in  the  rear,  the  entire  fleet  being  fully  eight 
leagues  from  \«here  it  set  sail.  At  a  point  where 
three  hills  project  into  the  river,  the  batteau  veered 
away  and  ran  down  through  a  long  narrow  channel 
between  what  seemed  to  be  a  large  island  and  some 
smaller  ones,  and  out  into  a  large  bay,  beyond  which 
stretched  another  broad  channel,  easily  seen  from 
the  masthead.  Having  sounded  and  found  deep 
water,  I  decided  to  follow;  but  owing  to  light  winds 
our  progress  was  slow,  though  in  running  through 
the  narrow  channel  we  gained  somewhat  on  the  bat- 
teau, which  we  soon  lost  sight  of  among  the  islands 
in  the  north  channel,  which  are  very  numerous,  with 
narrow  swift  channels  in  every  direction  between 
them,  very  difficult  to  sail  among  unless  favored 
with  a  strong  breeze,  which,  unfortunately  for  us, 
was  now  very  light,  and  to  add  to  our  difficulties, 
night  was  at  hand.  Had  we  not  been  able  to  dis- 
tinguish the  islands  from  the  lookout  at  the  mast- 
head, we  might  have  thought  that  the  main  land  lay 
ahead  of  us,  but  with  what  we  could  see  from  that 
point,  and  finding  that  the  current  set  strongly  in 
that  direction,  and  knowing  from  some  previous 
experience  among  the  islands  above  that  the  chan- 
nels between  the  islands  were  likely  to  be  deep,  I 
determined  to  hold  on  to  our  course,  not  doubting 
tliat  we  should  run  safely  through  the  archipelago, 
if  it  be  proper  to  so  call  a  cluster  of  islands  that  are 
not  in  the  sea.  So  the  Fates  would  have  it,  how- 
ever, we  were  no  sooner  fairly  within  what  seemed 
to  be  the  largest  channel  than  the  vessel  was  attacked 
on  every  side  from  the  summits  of  the  islands,  which 
were  covered  with  trees  and  thickets,'  and  our  deck 
was  fairly  swept  with  arrows  and  musketry,  while  at 
the  same  time  we  seemed  about  to  strike  '  bows  on' 


THE  WAR  OF  1755. 


167 


here  was  no 
tination,  the 
on  board  a 
he  river.  It 
)t.  Loring  of 
it  we  will  let 
It  by  the  gal- 
entire  fleet  set 
veil  within  the 
river,  near  the 
Chevreuil,  and 
i^hich  the  looic- 
batteau  loaded 

knew  at  once 
he  expedition, 
lalled  the  Mo- 
et  the  batteau 
lich  I  failed  to 
1  league  ahead 
IS  yet  another 
ing  fully  eight 
a  point  where 
batteau  veered 
larrow  channel 
land  and  some 
,  beyond  which 
sily  seen  from 
d  found  deep 
;  to  light  winds 
nning  through 
hat  on  the  bat- 
ong  the  islands 
lumerous,  with 
action  between 
unless  favored 
jnately  for  us, 
lur  difficulties, 
;n  able  to  dis- 
t  at  the  mast- 
3  main  land  lay 

see  from  that 
set  strongly  in 
some  previous 
that  the  chan 
y  to  be  deep.  I 
e,  not  doubting 
le  archipelago, 
islands  that  are 
1  have  it,  how- 
n  what  seemed 
el  was  attacked 
;  islands,  which 
;|  and  our  deck 
sketry,  while  at 
rike  '  bows  on' 


to  a  precipice  directly  ahead.  I  immediately  ordered 
Coxswain  Terry  and  his  crew  to  lower  away  one  of 
the  quarter  boats,  with  a  message  to  the  Mohawk  to 
turn  back  to  the  other  channel,  and  then  sent  the 
men  to  the  guns  quickly,  driving  the  enemy  from 
(he  summits  of  the  islands  and  into  their  canoes, 
when  they  soon  escaped  into  the  numerous  channels 
on  either  hand. 

Ordering  another  boat  lowered,  a  suitable  channel 
was  soon  found,  through  which  we  passed  safely, 
and  anchored  about  a  league  below  the  thickest  of 
the  group  of  islands,  and  %vaited  for  Coxswain  Terry 
and  his  crew  to  return.  After  some  time,  I  ordered 
Ensign  Barry  to  take  the  cutter  and  search  for  the 
coxswain  and  his  crew.  After  some  hours  Ensign 
Barry  returned.  He  had  been  bewildered  among 
the  numerous  channels,  not  being  able  to  even  dis- 
tinguish the  channels  through  which  the  vessel  had 
come,  nor  the  one  by  which  she  entered  the  group 
of  islands,  nor  had  he  discovered  the  first  boat 
lowered.  Ensign  Barry  called  it  "  The  River  of  the 
Lost  Channel,"  and  in  that  way  was  it  ever  after 
spoken  of  among  the  men.  Thinking  that  Coxswain 
Terry  and  his  crew  had  boarded  the  Mohawk,  and 
that  they  would  return  to  us  when  we  joined  the 
fleet,  I  determined  to  sail  as  soon  as  the  wind 
freshened. 

"Aug.  15th.  All  this  day  there  was  a  strong  head 
wind,  and  after  sounding  and  finding  shallow  water 
in  several  places,  I  did  not  think  it  best  to  tack  for 
fear  of  running  aground." 

"Aug.  i6th.  The  lookout  discovered  a  vessel  thiK 
morning  at  a  distance  of  about  four  leagues  coming 
up  the  river,  but  we  could  not  make  her  out.  Pre- 
suming that  it  was  a  French  vessel,  as  we  knew  that 
they  had  an  armed  brig  below,  we  got  springs  on  our 
cables  in  order  to  veer  if  attacked,  but  she  did  not 
come  nearer  to  us  than  three  leagues." 

"Aug.  17th  Wind  still  con.rary.  There  has  been 
heavy   cannonading  down    the   river   to-day  about 


four  leagues  distant  but  hid  from  us  by  islands.  It 
cannot  be  at  the  French  Fort,  which  cannot  be  less 
than  fifteen  leagues  distant." 

"Aug.  i8th.  Got  under  weigh  this  afternoon,  and 
will  soon  he  with  the  army." 

"Aug.  19th.  Reached  the  army  to-day,  and  re- 
ported to  Gen.  Amherst.  Coxswain  Terry  and  his 
crew  are  undoubtedly  lost,  as  they  did  not  board  the 
Mohawk,  but  started  to  return  to  the  Onondaga. 
The  firing  on  the  day  before  yesterday,  was  the 
attack  on  the  French  brig  by  our  armed  gallies  under 
the  command  of  Col.  Williamson,  who  captured  her 
after  a  severe  engagement  lasting  four  hours.  It 
was  a  most  gallant  affair.  The  brig  has  been  named 
the  Williamson,  after  the  gallant  colonel.  The  fort  is 
to  be  invested  to-morrow." 

In  speaking  of  this  very  affair  the  historian 
Mante  says: 

"All  this  while,  one  of  the  enemy  s  vessels  kept 
hovering  about  the  army,  and  as  Captain  Loring  had 
not  yet  got  into  the  right  channel,  it  became  iiecessary 
for  the  safety  of  the  army,  either  to  compel  this 
vessel  to  retire  or  to  take  her.  The  general  was 
therefore  obliged  to  order  Colonel  Williamson  with 
the  row  gallies  well  manned,  to  do  one  or  the  other." 

Then  follows  an  account  of  the  battle  and 
of  the  ill  luck  which  seemed  to  have  followed 
Captain  Loring  during  the  attack  on  the  fort, 
at  which  time  his  vessel  ran  aground  and  was 
very  nearly  taken  possession  of  by  the  enemy. 
But  as  any  further  description  of  the  capture 
of  Fort  Levis  is  not  germane  to  our  history, 
because  it  took  place  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
Thousand  Islands,  we  bring  the  article  to  a 
close,  having  shown  the  reader  that  the  name 
"  Lost  Channel "  is  by  no  means  a  modern 
invention. 


J^ 


i68 


A   iiOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


FRANK    H.  TAYLOR. 


FRANK    H.    TAYIOR,    THE    ARTIST. 

Among  the  favored  residents  at  the  pleas- 
ant summer  colony  of  Round  Island  there  are 
none  better  known  or  more  enthusiastic  re- 
garding the  charms  of  the  Thousand  Islands 
than  Mr.  Frank  H.  Taylor,  one  of  the  few 
Philadelphians  who  spend  their  summer  in 
this  region.  After  much  and  varied  travel  as 
an  illustrator  and  writer,  Mr.  Taylor  came  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  upon  a  mission  for  Harper's 
Weekly  in  1881,  and  at  once  recognizing  the 
certainty  of  its  supremacy  as  a  summer  resort, 
he  built  the  pretty  cottage  at  the  foot  of 
Round  Island,  which  he  calls  "  Shady  Ledge." 
Mr.  Taylor,  with  his  wife  and  only  son,  who 
is  also  an  artist,  return  here  each  season  vith 
great  regularity  in  June,  and  devote  the  sum- 


mer to  the  congenial  work  of  the  water  color' 
ist.  Mr.  Taylor's  illustrations  of  island  life, 
accompanied  by  vivid  descriptions,  have  ap- 
peared in  many  publications,  and  have  done 
much  to  popularize  these  beautiful  islands 
throughout  the  country.  The  writer  is  in- 
debted for  several  picturesque  chapters  in  this 
work  to  Mr.  Taylor's  facile  pen.  He  has 
done  more  to  popularize  the  St.  Lawrence 
Archipelago  than  any  other  man.  This  he  has 
been  enabled  to  do  from  the  fact  that  he  is 
not  only  a  fine  writer,  but  an  artist  as  well, 
and  can  both  describe  and  delineate  anything 
he  desires  to  present.  This  is  a  most  happy 
combination  of  talent,  as  valuable  as  it  is  rare. 
Mr.  Taylor's  delineations  have  been  delicate 
but  most  expressive.  He  is  one  who  brings 
the  love  of  nature  into  his  work,  fully  believ- 
ing that  honest  delineation  of  scenery  is  very 
much  above  any  attempt  to  introduce  fancy 
effects. 

The  regular  vi-^itors  to  Round  Island  and 
other  points  upon  the  river  always  welcome 
Mr.  Taylor  and  his  family  as  desirable  people 
to  know.  Grand  Army  men,  in  particular, 
have  experienced  great  pleasure  at  the  camp- 
fires  held  on  the  lawn  in  front  of  Comrade 
Taylor's  fine  residence  upon  the  east  side  of 
the  island.  There  has  never  occurred  one  of 
these  unique  entertainments  that  has  not  been 
marked  by  good  speaking  and  singing.  Com- 
rade Taylor  gets  true  enjoyment  by  contribut- 
ing to  the  enjoyment  of  others,  and  that  is  a 
great  thing  to  find  out  and  to  really  believe 
in  —  it  may  indeed  be  almost  like  finding  the 
real  philosopher's  stone,  which  is  said  to  turn 
all  things  it  touches  into  gold. 


^m 


water  color' 
island  life, 
IS,  have  ap- 
have  done 
iful  islands 
Titer  is  in- 
pters  in  this 
1.  He  has 
.  Lawrence 
This  he  has 
t  that  he  is 
list  as  well, 
te  anything 
most  happy 
as  it  is  rare. 
en  delicate 
who  brings 
ully  believ- 
lery  is  very 
duce  fancy 

Island  and 
ys  welcome 
able  people 
particular, 
:  the  camp- 
f  Comrade 
east  side  of 
rred  one  of 
as  not  been 
ing.  Com- 
'  contribut- 
id  that  is  a 
illy  believe 
finding  the 
aid  to  turn 


THE   CASTORLAND  COLONY. 


(^TO  the  excellent  aiticle  by  Hon.  Mr.  In- 
^^  galls,  upon  the  "  Waterways  of  Jefferson 
County"  (see  pages  9-12  of  Haddock's  His- 
tory), we  wish  to  add  a  few  general  remarks. 
It  is  a  peculiar  characteristic,  marking  all  the 
rivers  that  flow  in  and  around  Northern  New 
York,  that,  excepting  only  the  Mohawk,  all 
of  them  flow  from  and  througli  larger  or 
smaller  chains  of  lakes.  The  noble  St.  Law- 
rence itself,  which  forms  the  natural  and  in- 
tensely picturesque  northwestern  boundary  of 
Jefferson  county,  seems  to  be  the  vast  proto- 
type and  pattern  for  all  the  others,  as  it  flows 
from  its  own  great  continental  system  of 
lakes.  The  Hudson,  flowing  eastward  like 
the  Mohawk,  is  fed  by  a  system  of  forest 
branches  which  spread  over  the  entire  moun- 
tain belt  of  the  Adirondack  wilderness,  the 
head  waters  of  some  of  its  tributaries  being 
over  s,ooo  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
But,  however  interesting  it  may  be  to  follow 
out  this  train  of  thought,  our  space  constrains 
as  to  confine  our  remarks  to  the  streams  which 
flow  into  and  through  Jefferson  county,  or  re- 
late to  waterways  touching  that  county. 
Their  influence  upon  the  early  settlements  of 
the  northern  wilderness  of  1793,  in  drawing 
to  the  Black  River  country  those  in  pursuit 
of  water  power  to  drive  factories,  can  never 
be  prized  too  highly,  nor  too  patiently  de- 
scribed. These  waters  attracted  to  this  local- 
ity those  whose  minds  were  profoundly  stirred 
by  that  intense  activity  which  always  precedes 
great  discoveries  and  great  movements  of 
populations. 

The  Black  River  bounds  the  Great  Wilder- 
ness plateau  of  Laurentian  rocks  on  the  nest, 
and  its  valley  bounds  the  Lesser  Wildnerness 
on   the   east.     The  principal  confluents  that 


enter  the  Black  River  from  the  Great  Wilder- 
ness, are  the  Moose,  Otter  Creek,  the  Inde- 
pendence, and  the  Beaver. 

The  Moose  River  rises  near  the  Raquette 
Lake  in  the  center  of  the  wilderness,  and 
winds  through  and  forms  the  celebrated  Eight 
Lakes  of  the  Fulton  chain.  The  Moose  passes 
in  its  course  the  hunting  station  known  to  all 
frequenters  of  the  woods  as  Arnold's,  or  the 
Old  Forge,  on  Brown's  Tract.  This  secluded 
spot  has  long  been  famous  in  forest  story  as 
the  scene  of  John  Brown's*  fruitless  attempt 
at  settlement,  of  the  failure  and  tragic  death 
of  his  son-in-law  Herreshoff,  of  the  exploits 
of  the  hunter  Foster  and  his  victim,  the  Indian 
Drid,  and  of  the  life-long  home  of  Otis  Arnold, 
the  hunter  and  guide. 

The  Independence  River  rises  near  the 
Eight  Lakes  of  the  Fulton  chain  and  runs 
into  Black  River  in  the  town  of  Watson,  Lewis 
county,  between  the  Moose  River  and  the 
Beaver  River.  In  its  course,  this  river  crosses 
the  tract  of  wild  land  known  to  land  specu- 
lators as  Watson's  West  Triangle.  The  Inde- 
pendence River  was  so  named  in  honor  of  our 
national  holiday  by  Pierre  Pharoux,  the  en- 
gineer and  surveyor  of  Castorland.  Near  the 
south  bank  of  the  Independence,  not  far  from 
the  old  Watson  house,  is  Chase's  lake.  This 
lake  has  long  been  a  favorite  resort,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  accessible  in  the  Wilderness  for 
the  invalid  or  pleasure  seeker.  The  Beaver 
River  rises  in  the  heart  of  the  Wilderness  to 
the  north  of  Raquette  Lake,  and  running  in  its 
course  through  Smith's  Lake,  Albany  Lake,  and 
Beaver  Lake,  waters  the  territory  of  ancient 

*  Not  the  John  Brown,  of  Harper's-Ferry  fame, 
"whose  body  lies  a  mouldering  in  the  ground,  but 
whose  soul  is  marching  on." 


170 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


'*■' 


Castorland,  the  seat  of  French  influence  on 
the  Black  River.  Beaver  Lake,  an  expansion  of 
this  river  at  Number  Four,  a  famous  summer 
resort,  is  one  of  the  most  charming  lakes  in 
the  wilderness. 

Among  the  problematical  places  of  the  olden 
times  in  Northern  New  York,  whose  names 
were  once  lamiiar  in  European  circles  but  are 
seldom  heard  in  modern  story,  no  one  was 
once  more  famous  than  La  Famine. 

Two  hundred  years  ago.  La  Famine  was  a 
well-known  stopping-place  upon  the  eastern 
shorp  of  Lake  Ontario  for  the  weary  hunter 
and  the  bold  explorer,  and  the  spot  where 
even  armies  encamped,  and  the  ambassadors 
of    hostile   nations   met   in   solemn    council. 


of  the  Lesser  Wilderness  from  the  west  was 
the  Salmon  River.  On  their  way  to  the  hunt- 
ing ground  through  Lake  Ontario,  the  western 
Indians  landed  at  the  mouth  of  this  river,  and 
their  trail  then  led  up  its  banks. 

La  Famine  then  was  the  ancient  seaport  of 
this  famous  hunting  ground  of  the  Lesser 
Wilderness,  and  was  situated  near  what  is 
now  the  village  of  Mexico,  Oswego  county 
Hence  we  find  on  a  map  of  New  France,  pub- 
lished by  Marco  Vincenzo  Coronelli,  in  1688, 
this  place  put  down  at  the  mouth  of  what  is 
now  known  as  the  Salmon  River,  but  in  his 
map  it  is  called  La  Famine  River.  It  bears 
the  following  inscription:  "  La  Famine,  lieu 
ou  la  plus  part  des  Iroquois  des  barquet  pour 


MEDAL   ISSUED    BY    THE    CHASSNAIS    FRANCO-AMERICAN    LAND    COMPANY. 
[Enlarged  one-half,  from  an  original  in  possession  of  tiie  Jefferson  County  Historical  Society.] 


To-day  its  name  can  only  be  found  on  the  his- 
toric page  and  in  the  old  maps  and  musty 
records,  while  its  locality  is  often  a  matter  of 
controversy.  The  ancient  Indian  landing-place 
and  camping-ground  known  to  the  French  as 
La  Famine,  was  situated  on  the  shore  of 
Famine  Bay,  now  called  Mexico  Bay,  in  the 
southeast  corner  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  the 
nf'uth  of  La  Famine  River,  now  known  as 
Salmon  Ri^'er. 

The  Salmon  River,  the  ancient  French  La 
Famine,  rises  in  the  central  part  of  the  plateau 
of  the  Lesser  Wilderness  in  the  southwest 
corner  of  Lewis  county,  and  runs  westerly 
through  the  northern  p^rt  of  Oswego  county 
into  Lake  Ontario.  The  Lesser  Wilderness 
was  one  of  the  beaver-hunting  countries  of 
the  Iroquois.     The  key  to  this  hunting  ground 


aller  in  traitte  du  Castor,"  which  may  be 
translated  thus:  "  La  Famine,  the  place 
where  the  greater  part  of  the  Iroquois  em- 
barked to  go  upon  the  trail  of  the  beaver. " 

The  Lesser  Wilderness  of  Northern  New 
York  is  situated  upon  the  long  narrow  plateau 
which  stretches  first  westerly  and  then  north- 
erly from  the  Upper  Mohawk  valley  and  the 
Oneida  Lake  almost  to  the  village  of  Carthage. 
The  rocky  ground-work  of  this  plateau  is 
composed  of  level  strata  of  limestone  and 
slate,  which  rise  in  a  series  of  terraces  of  a 
mile  or  two  in  width  from  its  borders  into  a 
high  level  table  land,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  nearly  2,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Upon  the  central  part  of  this  table  land  are 
situated  the  forests,  swamps,  marshes  and 
wild  meadows  cf  the  Lesser  Wilderness. 


CASTORLAND,   AND    THE  FRENCH  SETTLEMENT    THERE. 


171 


e  west  was 
3  the  hunt- 
he  western 
5  river,  and 

seaport  of 
he  Lesser 
ir  what  is 
?o  county, 
ance,  pub- 
li,  in  1688, 
of  what  is 
but  in  his 
It  bears 
imine,  lieu 
rquet  pour 


may  be 
the  place 
quois  em- 
eaver. " 
lern  New 
)w  plateau 
en  north- 
y  and  the 
Carthage. 
3lateau  is 
stone  and 
aces  of  a 
;rs  into  a 

elevation 
)f  the  sea. 

land  are 
>hes  and 
ess. 


Down  the  more  regular  terraces  of  its  west- 
ern slope,  locally  called  Tug  Hill,  the  streams 
which  rise  in  the  swamps  of  the  Lesser  Wil- 
derness hurry  in  a  series  of  falls  and  cascades 
into  the  Black  River,  wearing  deep  chasms  in 
the  yielding  rocks  along  their  courses.  Among 
these  streams  are  the  Deer  River,  the  Silver- 
mine,  the  Martin,  the  Whetstone  and  other 
creeks. 

This  Lesser  Wilderness  was  one  of  the  most 
famous  hunting  grounds  of  the  Indian.  Its 
woods  were  literally  filled  with  game,  and  its 
streams  with  fish.  La  Hontan  says  that  there 
were  so  many  salmon  in  La  Famine  River  that 
they  often  brought  up  a  hundred  at  one  cast 
of  the  net. 

Castorland. 

The  summer  tourist,  on  his  way  from  Tren- 
ton Falls  to  the  Thousand  Islands,  may  pass 
through  the  beautiful  and  flourishing  valley 
of  the  Black  River,  over  the  Utica  and  Black 
River  Railroad.  As  the  train  draws  near  to 
the  first  station  north  of  the  village  of  Low- 
ville,  he  will  hear  the  sharp  voice  of  the 
brakeman  crying  out  "Cas-tor-land."  He 
will  look  out  of  the  car  window  and  see  a 
wide  level  clearing  of  pasture-land  and 
meadow,  skirted  by  forests,  one  side  of  which 
is  bounded  by  the  river.  In  the  middle  of 
this  clearing  he  will  see  only  the  small  station 
house,  and  three  or  four  scattered  buildings 
surrounding  it,  and  will  doubtless  wonder 
whence  comes  the  high-sounding  name  for 
such  meagre  surroundings. 

The  story  of  Castorland  is  the  often  re- 
peated tale  of  frustrated  settlements  in  the 
old  wilderness — the  story  of  an  attempt  of  the 
exiled  nobility  and  clergy  of  the  old  regime  in 
France  to  found  a  settlement  in  the  wilds  of 
the  New  World,  where  they  could  find  a 
secure  retreat  from  the  horrors  of  the  Revolu- 
tion in  the  Old. 

This  attempt  was  made  at  the  close  of  the 
last  century  in  the  valley  of  the  Black  River, 
on  the  western  slope  of  the  Great  Wilderness. 
But,  like  the  settlement  of  the  first  Catholics 
on  the  Patuxent,  the  Jacobites  with  Flora  Mc- 
Donald at  Cape   Fear,  the   Huguenots  with 


Jean  Ribault  at  Port  Royal ;  like  New  Amster- 
dam on  the  Hudson,  New  Sweden  on  the 
Delaware  ;  like  Acadie  in  Nova  Scotia, — Cas- 
torland on  the  Black  River  lives  now  only  in 
poetry  and  history.  Its  story  is  one  of  bril- 
liant promises  all  unfulfilled,  of  hopes  defer- 
red, of  man's  tireless  but  fruitless  endeavor, 
of  woman's  tears. 

To  rescue  this  name  so  fraught  with  histor- 
ical associations  from  oblivion,  it  was  applied 
to  the  railroad  station  which  is  nearest  to  the 
site  of  the  largest  projected  city  of  ancient 
Castorland.  That  city  was  laid  out  on  the 
Beaver  River,  which  flows  into  the  Black 
River  from  the  wilderness  nearly  opposite  this 
station. 

For  the  purpose  of  effecting  the  settlement 
of  Castorland  a  company  was  formed  in  Paris, 
under  the  laws  of  France,  in  the  month  of 
August,  1792,  and  styled  La  Compagnie  de 
New  York.  On  the  31st  day  of  the  same 
month  the  company,  by  its  agent,  Pierre 
Chassanis,  bought  a  large  tract  of  land  lying 
in  the  valley  of  the  Black  River,  of  William 
Constable,  who  was  the  owner  of  Macomb's 
Purchase.  This  tract  lay  along  both  sides  of 
the  Black  River  below  the  High  Falls,  and  ex- 
tended westerly  through  the  counties  of  Lewis 
and  Jefferson  to  Lake  Ontario,  and  easterly 
into  the  heart  of  the  Great  Wilderness.  The 
Castorland  purchase  at  first  comprised  the 
whole  of  great  lot  No.  5  of  Macomb's  pur- 
chase, and  contained  610,000  acres.  But  sub- 
sequently all  south  and  west  of  the  Black 
River,  being  the  part  which  now  constitutes 
the  richest  towns  of  Lewis  and  Jefferson  coun- 
ties, was  given  up,  and  only  that  lying  to  the 
north  and  east  of  the  river  retained.  The 
portion  so  retained  contained  only  210,000 
acres.  This  was  the  Castorland  of  the  olden 
times. 

The  name  Castorland,  that  is  to  say,  the 
Land  of  Beavers,  is  doubtless  a  literal  transla- 
tion of  the  old  Indian  word,  which  means  the 
"  Beaver  Hunting  Country,"  Castorland  being 
taken  out  of  the  western  half  of  this  old  In- 
dian hunting  ground. 

During  the  negotiations  between  Constable 
and  Chassanis  for  this  tract,  the  French  Revo- 


172 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


lution,  that  had  been  so  long  smouldering, burst 
forth  in  all  its  savage  fury,  and  the  streets  of 
Paris  were  slippery  with  human  gore.  Con- 
stable locked  the  door  of  the  apartment  in 
which  they  met,  with  the  remark  that  "  if  they 
parted  before  the  purchase  was  completed 
they  might  never  meet  again."  The  palace  of 
the  Tuilleries  was  already  surrounded  by  the 
bloodthirsty  mob.  The  attendants  of  the 
royal  family  were  butchered,  and  the  feeble 
king  cast  into  a  dungeon.  In  comparison 
with  such  awful  scenes  as  these  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  highest  civilization  the  world  had 
ever  seen,  the  savage  wilderness  of  the  old 
American  forests  was  a  scene  of  peaceful  rest. 
To  the  fugitive  noblesse  of  France,  the  former 
possessors  of  great  titles,  rank,  wealth  and 
culture,  the  quiet  shades  of  Castorland  af- 
forded a  secure  asylum  from  the  horrors  of 
the  Reign  of  Terror. 

Scheme  of  Settlement. 

A  romantic  scheme  was  at  once  conceived 
and  perfected  by  the  company  in  Paris  for  the 
settlement  of  Castorland.  In  pursuance  of 
this  scheme  a  pamphlet  was  printed  in  Paris 
and  issued  by  the  Company,  containing  a  pro- 
gramme of  colonization  under  its  auspices. 
This  pamphlet  was  entitled  "Association  for 
the  purchase  and  settlement  of  600,000  acres 
of  land,  granted  by  the  State  of  New  York, 
and  situated  within  that  State,  between  the 
43d  and  44th  degrees  of  latitude,  upon  Lake 
Ontario,  and  thirty-five  leagues  from  the  city 
and  port  of  Albany,  where  vessels  land  from 
Europe."  It  set  forth,  among  other  things,  in 
glowing  colors,  the  wealth  of  agriculture  pre- 
sented by  its  fertile  soil,  the  fine  distribution 
of  its  waters,  its  facilities  for  an  extended  com- 
merce on  account  of  its  location  in  the  vicinity 
of  a  dense  population,  and  above  all  the 
security  afforded  to  its  inhabitants  by  the  laws 
of  a  people  who  were  independent  and  rich 
with  :.'  I'  '51  capital,  thus  extending  to  the 
imm;  li  'lie  benefits  of  liberty  with  none 

of  its  -1  •■  a  /^.  It  was  stated  that  the  ob- 
ject of  Uu:  i^roprie.ors  was  to  form  of  the 
colony  a  sort  of  laniily,  in  some  way  united  by 
common   interests  and  common  wants,   and 


that  to  maintain  this  union  of  interests  a  plan 
had  been  devised  that  rendered  each  member 
directly  interested  in  the  whole  property.  It 
was  to  be  done  by  and  in  the  name  of  Sieur 
Chassanis,  in  whose  name  they  had  purchased 
the  estate,  and  who  alone  had  power  to  issue 
certificates  of  ownership. 

There  were  6,000  rertificates  to  be  issued, 
each  entitling  the  holder  thereof  to  ownership 
in  manner  following :  The  whole  tract  at  that 
time  consisted  of  630,000  acres.  Of  this  600,- 
000  were  divided  into  12,000  lots  of  fifty  acres 
each,  and  the  price  of  each  share  fixed  at  800 
livres  (I152.38).  In  the  beginning,  6,000  lots 
were  set  apart  for  individual  properties,  and 
the  other  6,000  lots  were  to  belong  to  a  com- 
mon stock  which  was  to  be  divided  at  some 
future  time,  after  improvements  had  been 
made  thereon  by  the  company.  Each  holder 
of  a  certificate  was  to  receive  at  once  a  deed 
for  a  separate  lot  of  fifty  acres,  to  be  drawn 
by  lot,  and  also  a  lot  of  fifty  acres  in  the  com- 
mon undivided  stock. 

Of  the  30,000  remaining  acres,  2,000  were 
set  apart  for  a  city  to  be  formed  on  the  great 
river  in  the  interior,  and  2,000  more  for 
another  city  on  Lake  Ontario,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Black  River,  which  was  to  form  a 
port  and  entrepot  of  commerce.  Among 
artisans  6,000  acres  were  to  be  divided  and 
rented  to  them  at  twelve  sous  per  acre.  The 
proceeds  of  the  20,000  acres  remaining  were 
to  be  expended  by  the  Company  in  the  con- 
struction of  roads,  bridges  and  other  improve- 
ments. 

The  two  cities  were  divided  into  14,000  lots 
each.  Of  these  lots,  2,000  were  set  apart  for 
churches,  schools,  markets,  etc.  The  remain- 
ing 12,000  lots  were  to  be  divided  among  the 
6,000  holders  of  certificates  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  large  tract,  —  each  holding  one 
separate  lot  and  one  in  common. 

The  affairs  of  the  company  were  to  be  man- 
aged by  five  trustees,  three  to  remain  in  Paris 
and  two  upon  the  tract. 

Such  was  the  scheme  matured  in  the  salons 

of   Paris    for  the   settlement   of  Castorland. 

Beautiful  and  promising  beyond  measure  upon 

aper,  as  an  ideal,  but  utterly  impracticable 


srests  a  plan 
ich  member 
roperty.  It 
me  of  Sieur 
d  purchased 
ver  to  issue 

o  be  issued, 
0  ownership 
tract  at  that 
Df  this  600,- 
jf  fifty  acres 
fixed  at  800 
g,  6,000  lots 
iperties,  and 
ig  to  a  corn- 
ed at  some 
had  been 
Each  holder 
mce  a  deed 
0  be  drawn 
in  the  com- 

2,000  were 
)n  the  great 
3    more    for 

the  mouth 

to  form  a 
e.  Among 
divided  and 

acre.  The 
aining  were 
in  the  con- 
er  improve- 

3  14,000  lots 
et  apart  for 
rhe  remain- 
among  the 
:  same  man- 
lolding  one 

:  to  be  man- 
ain  in  Paris 

n  the  salons 
Castorland. 
easure  upon 
ipracticable 


CASTORLAND.   AND    THE  FRENCH  SETTLEMENT    THERE. 


173 


and  bitterly  disappointing  as  a  reality.     Yet 
many  shares  were  eagerly  taken. 

Organization. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1793,  it  being  the 
second  year  of  the  French  Republic,  the  actual 
holders  of  certificates  convertible  into  shares 
of  La  Compagnie  de  New  York  met  in  the 
rooms  of  Citizen  Chassanis,  in  Paris,  to  organ- 
ize their  society  upon  the  basis  already  estab- 
lished, and  to  regulate  the  division,  survey 
and  settlement  of  their  lands.  There  were 
present  at  that  meeting  forty-one  shareholders 
in  all,  who  represented  1,880  shares.  They  per- 
fected and  completed  their  organization;  they 
adopted  a  long  and  elaborate  constitution ;  they 
chose  a  seal  for  their  corporation,  and  ap- 
pointed five  commissaries  to  manage  its  af- 
fairs, three  for  Paris  and  two  for  Castorland. 
In  the  meantime  the  tract  had  been  re-con- 
veyed, and  the  large  part  lying  west  and  south 
of  the  Black  River  given  up,  the  part  retained 
being  that  lying  east  and  north  of  the  river, 
and  containing  only  210,000  acres.  To  ac- 
cord with  this  fact  the  number  of  shares  was 
reduced  from  6.000  to  2,000.  It  was  at  this 
meeting  that  a  silver  piece  was  ordered  to  be 
struck,  termed  a  "  Jetton  de  presence,"  one 
of  which  was  to  be  given  at  every  meeting  to 
each  commissary  as  an  attendance  fee.*  [See 
engraving,  p.  170.] 


*  These  pieces  occur  in  coin  cabinets,  and  have 
been  erroneously  cdled  "Castorland  half-dollars." 
A  jetton  is  a  piece  of  metal  struck  with  a  device,  and 
distributed  to  be  kept  in  commemoration  of  some 
event,  or  to  be  used  as  a  counter  in  fiiames  of  chance. 
The  one  here  noticed  was  termed  a  "jetton  de  pre- 
sence," or  piece  "given  in  certain  societies  or  com- 
panies to  each  of  the  members  at  a  session  or  meet- 
ing." It  was  engraved  by  one  of  the  Duvivier 
brothers,  eminent  coin  and  metal  artists  of  Paris. 
The  design  represents  on  the  obverse  the  head  of 
Cybele,  who  personified  the  earth  as  inhabited  or 
cultivated,  while  on  the  reverse  Ceres  has  just  tap- 
ped a  maple  tree,  in  which  will  be  observed  a  spout 
provided  with  a  stop  to  withhold  the  sweet  sap  when 
it  flowed  too  fast ' 

The  Latin  legend  on  the  reverse  is  a  quotation 
from  Virgil,  which,  with  its  context,  reads  : 

"  Snlva  magna  parens  frugum,  Satumia  tellus 
magna    vii-um." 


Tlie  commissaries  appointed  for  America 
were  Simon  Desjardines  and  Pierre  Pharoux, 
who  lost  no  time  in  proceeding  to  America  to 
execute  their  important  trust.  Desjardines 
had  been  a  Chamberlain  of  Louis  XVI.  He 
was  of  middle  age,  an  accomplished  scholar 
and  gentleman,  but  knew  not  a  word  of  English 
when  he  arrived.  He  had  with  him  his  wife 
and  three  children,  and  his  younger  brother, 
Geoffry  Desjardines,  who  shared  his  labors 
and  trials.  He  also  brought  with  him  his 
library  of  2,000  volumes.  Pierre  Pharoux, 
the  surveyor,  who  was  afterwards  drowned,  was 
a  distinguished  young  architect  and  engineer 
of  Paris,  of  high  scientific  attainments  and 
marked  ability.  He  was  earnestly  and  faith- 
fully devoted  to  his  duties;  and  his  love  of 
science,  his  honesty,  his  good  sense,  and 
genial  and  ardent  friendship  were  manifested 
in  all  his  doings.  He  left  behind  him  in 
France  an  aged  father  to  mourn  his  untimely 
death. 

They  sailed  from  Havre  on  the  4th  day  of 
July,  1793,  i"  the  American  ship  Liberty,  but 
did  not  arrive  in  New  York  until  the  7th  of 
September  following.  There  came  over  in  the 
same  vessel  with  them  a  young  French  refugee 
named  Mark  Isambart  Brunei,  who  afterward 
filled  the  world  with  his  fame  as  an  engineer 
in  England.  Brunei  had  been  in  the  French 
navy,  and  was  driven  from  home  on  account 
of  his  royalistic  proclivities.  He  went  with 
them  in  all  their  journeys  through  the  wilder- 
ness, and  shared  in  all  their  hardships  during 
the  first  year,  but  does  not  seem  to  have  been 
employed  by  them  in  Castorland. 

Their  First  Exploration. 

Soon  after  their  arrival  in  this  country, 
Desjardines  and  Pharoux,  with  their  friend 
Brunei,  set  out  on  a  voyage  of  exploration  to 
their  "  promised  land  "  in  the  wild  valley  of 
the  Black  River.  To  realize  the  difficulties 
of  the  undertaking,  the  reader  must  bear  in 
mind  that  the  country  they  were  in  quest  of 
lay  far  from  Albany  in  the  depths  of  a  howling 
wilderness,  which  had  then  never  been  visited 
by  white  men,  except  around  its  border,  or 
when  carried  across  it  as  prisoners  in  savage 


'74 


A   SOUVENIR   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


hands  ;  that  the  only  route  to  it  was  up  the 
Mohawk,  in  batteaux,  to  Fort  Stanwix,  now 
the  city  of  Rome  ;  thence  by  the  way  of  Wood 
creek,  the  Oneida  lake,  and  the  Oswego  river 
to  Lake  Ontario,  and  from  Lake  Ontario  up 
the  unexplored  route  of  the  Black  River.  It  was 
over  the  old  Indian  trail,  the  savage  warpath 
of  the  French  and  Indian  and  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary wars,  and  even  then  there  was  threat- 
ened a  general  Indian  war  by  all  the  tribes 
around  our  borders.  But  in  the  face  of  all 
these  difficulties  our  explorers,  in  the  autumn 
of  1793,  set  out  for  Castorland. 

In  describing  their  passage  over  the  carry- 
ing place  from   Fort  Stanwix  to  Wood  creek, 


of  these  trunks,  presenting  at  once  the  images 
of  life  and  death." 

The  fort  at  Oswego  was  still  held  by  a 
British  garrison.  Jealous  of  Frenchmen,  the 
commander  at  first  refused  to  allow  them  to 
pass  into  Lake  Ontario,  but  it  was  finally 
arranged  that  Brunei  should  remain  as  a 
hostage  for  the  good  conduct  and  safe  return 
of  the  others.  Brunei,  however,  was  refused 
access  to  the  fort,  and  was  ordered  to  encamp 
alone  in  the  woods  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  Considering  that  such  treatment  in- 
validated his  parole,  he  escaped  from  Oswego 
disguised  as  a  common  sailor,  and  proceeded 
with  his  friends  on  their  expedition.     They 


near  where  the  four  busy  tracks  of  the  New 
York  Central  Railroad  now  run,  they  wrote  in 
their  journal,  under  date  of  October  loth  : 
"  Upon  taking  a  walk  into  the  woods  a  short 
distance  we  saw  on  every  hand  it  was  a  fear- 
ful solitude.  You  are  stopped  sometimes  by 
impassable  swamps,  and  at  other  times  by 
heaps  of  trees  that  have  fallen  from  age  or 
have  been  overthrown  by  storms,  and  among 
which  an  infinite  number  of  insects  and  many 
squirrels  find  a  retreat.  On  every  hand  we 
see  the  skeletons  of  trees  overgrown  with 
moss  and  in  every  stage  of  decay.  The  capil- 
laire  and  other  plants  and   shrubs  spu.ig  out 


proceeded  cautiously  along  the  shore  of  the 
lake  over  the  route  that  had  become  historic 
by  the  presence  of  M.  de  la  Barre  and  his 
army  in  their  visit  to  La  Famine  in  1684,  and 
of  Father  Charlevoix  in  1720,  and  which  had 
so  often  been  traversed  by  their  countrymen 
in  the  palmy  days  of  the  old  French  occu- 
pancy, until  their  arrival  at  Niaoure  bay,  now 
called  Black  River  bay.  Here  after  a  long 
search  they  discovered  the  mouth  of  the 
Black  River,  the  great  river  that  watered  Cas- 
torland. But  it  was  already  so  late  in  the 
season  that  they  only  explored  the  river  up  to 
the  point  some  five  or  six  miles  above  the  falls 


igggjggm 


i 


CASTORLAND,   AND    THE  FRENCH  SETTLEMENT   THERE. 


175 


the  images 

held  by  a 
:hmen,  the 
w  them  to 
ivas  finally 
main  as  a 
safe  return 
■as  refused 
to  encamp 
side  of  the 
atment  in- 
MTi  Oswego 
proceeded 
on.     They 


lore  of  the 
ome  historic 
rre  and  his 
in  1684,  and 
d  which  had 
countrymen 
rench  occu- 
ire  bay,  now 
after  a  long 
»uth  of  the 
ivatered  Cas- 
late  in  the 
;  river  up  to 
ove  the  falls 


at  Watertown,  and  then  returned  to  Albany 
to  complete  their  preparations  for  the  next 
year's  journey. 

In  the  autumn  of  1855,  the  Hon.  Amelia  M. 
Murray,  maid  of  honor  to  Queen  Victoria, 
made  a  tour  of  the  United  States  and  Canada, 
through  the  lake  belt  of  the  Wilderness,  over 
the  route  now  so  much  travelled.  Her 
companions  were  Gov.  Horatio  Seymour, 
the  Governor's  niece  and  other  friends. 
On  their  way  they  stopped,  of  course,  at 
Arnold's.  But  I  will  let  the  Lady  Amelia 
tell  the  story  in  her  own  words,  as 
written  in  her  diary,  under  date  of  Sep- 
tember 20,  1855  :  "  Mr.  Seymour  re- 
mained to  make  arrangements  with  the 
guides,  while  his  niece  and  I  walked  on 
to  Arnold's  farm.  There  we  found  Mrs. 
Arnold  and  six  daughters.  These  girls, 
aged  from  twelve  to  twenty,  were  placed 
in  a  row  against  one  wall  of  the  shanty, 
with  looks  so  expressive  of  astonishment, 
that  I  felt  puzzled  to  account  for  their 
manner,  till  their  mothei  informed  us 
they  had  never  before  seen  any  other 
woman  than  herself !  I  could  not  elicit 
a  word  from  them,  but,  at  last,  when  I 
begged  fr.  a  little  milk,  the  eldest  went 
and  brought  me  a  glass  (tin  cup).  Then 
I  remembered  that  we  had  met  a  single 
hunter  rowing  himself  on  the  Moose 
River,  who  called  out,  '  Where  on  'arth 
do  them  women  come  from  .-' '  And  our 
after  experience  fully  explained  why 
ladies  are  such  rare  birds  in  that  locality." 

The  Settlement  of  Castorland. 

The  next  spring,  being  in  the  year  1794,  the 
Desjardines  Brothers  and  Pharoux,  with  a 
large  company  of  men,  with  their  surveyors 
and  assistants,  took  up  their  toilsome  journey 
from  Schenectady  to  their  forest  possessions, 
being  this  time  fully  equipped  to  begin  their 
settlement.  Their  route  this  year  was  up  the 
Mohawk  in  batteaux  to  Fort  Schuyler,  now 
Utica,  thence  overland  across  the  Deerfield 
hills  sixteen  miles,  to  the  log  house  of  Baron 
Steuben,  who  had  then  just  commenced  his 
improvements  upon  his  tract  of   16,000  acres 


granted  him  by  the  Stste.  From  Steuben's  it 
was  twenty- four  miles  further  through  the 
trackless  forest  to  the  High  Falls  on  the  Black 
River  in  Castorland. 

The  difficulties  of  the  journey  then  still  be- 
fore them  can  scarcely  be  imagined  by  the 
reader  of   to-day.     At   length   they  reached 


their  tract  on  the  welcome  banks  of  the  Black 
River,  and  began  their  labors.  But  there  is  no 
space  in  these  pages  to  follow  them  in  their 
operations,  in  their  sore  trials  and  their  bitter 
disappointments,  their  final  discomfiture  and 
utter  failure. 

Suffice  it  to  say  that  they  began  a  little  set- 
tlement on  the  banks  of  the  Black  River,  at 
the  place  now  called  Lyon's  Falls.  That  they 
surveyed  their  lands  and  laid  out  one  of  their 
cities,  Castorville,  on  the  Beaver  river,  at  a 
place  now  called  Beaverton,  opposite  the 
little  station  now  called  Castorland,  in  mem- 
ory of  their  enterprise.     That  they  laid  out 


1/6 


A  SOUVENIR   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


•5,» 


their  other  city,  the  lake  port,  which  they 
named  "  City  of  Basle,"  at  what  is  now  Dex- 
ter, below  VVatertown,  and  in  1795  ^'^^X 
founded  the  present  village  of  Carthage.  That 
Pharoux  was  accidentally  drowned  in  the  river 
at  Watertown  in  the  fall  of  1795.  That  Des- 
jardines  gave  up  the  agency  in  despair  in  1797 
and  was  succeeded  by  Rudolphe  Tillier, 
"Member  of  the  Sovereign  Council  of  Berne," 
who  in  turn  gave  place  to  Gouverneur  Morris 
in  i8oo,  and  that  the  lands  finally  became  the 
property  of  James  Donatien  Le  Ray  de  Chau- 
mont,  his  associates  and  grantees. 

"After  toil  and  many  troubles,  self-exiled  for  many 

years, 
Long  delays  and  sad  misfortunes,  man's  regrets  and 

woman's  tears; 
Unfulfilled  the  brilliant  outset,  broken  as  a  chain  of 

sand, 
Were  the  goldeo  expectations  by  Grande  Rapides' 

promised  land." 

Death  of  Pierre  Pharoux. 
One  of  the  saddest  incidents  in  the  story  of 
Castorland  is  the  death  of  Pharoux,  at  the 
falls  of  Watertown,  in  1795.  In  September 
of  that  year,  after  the  river  had  been  swollen 
by  heavy  rains,  Pharoux  set  out  with  Brod- 
head,  Tassart  and  others,  all  surveyors,  on  a 
journey  to  Kingston.  In  passing  down  the 
river  on  a  raft,  they  were  drawn  over  the  falls. 
Mr.  Brodhead  and  three  men  were  saved,  but 
Pharoux  was  drowned.  The  survivors  made 
unremitting  search  for  Pharoux's  body,  but  it 
was  not  found  until  the  following  spring.  It 
was  washed  ashore  upon  an  island  at  the 
mouth  of  Black  River,  where  it  was  found  by 
Benjamin  Wright,  the  surveyor,  and  by  him 
decently  buried  there.     M.  LeRay  de  Chau- 


mont  many  years  afterwards  caused  a  marble 
tablet  to  be  set  in  the  rock  near  his  grave, 
bearing  this  inscription: 

TO    THE    MEMORY    OF 

PIERRE     PHAROUX, 
This     Island     is     Consecrated. 

The  reader  will  remember  that  the  year  be- 
fore his  death,  Pharoux  had  discovered  and 
named  the  river  Independence,  in  Castorland, 
and  had  selected  a  beautiful  spot  at  its  moutli 
on  the  Black  River,  near  a  large  fiat  granite 
rock,  for  his  residence.  This  spot,  called  by 
the  Desjardlnes  Brothers  Independence  Rock, 
was  ever  afterwards  regarded  by  them  with 
melancholy  interest.  They  could  not  pass  it 
without  shedding  tears  to  the  memory  of 
their  long-tried  and  trusted  friend.  Under 
date  of  May  28,  1796,  Simon  Desjardines,  the 
elder  brother,  recorded  in  his  journal  : 
"  Landed  at  half-past  two  at  Independence 
Rock,  and  visited  once  more  this  charming 
spot  which  had  been  so  beautifully  chosen  by 
our  friend  Pharoux  as  the  site  for  his  house. 
The  azaleas  in  full  bloom  loaded  the  air  with 
their  perfume,  and  the  wild  birds  sang 
sweetly  around  their  nests,  but  nature  has  no 
longer  any  pleasant  sights,  nor  fragrance,  nor 
music,  for  me."  -  < 

Castorland,  Adieu! 

And  now  ancient  Castorland  may  be  added 
to  the  long  list  of  names  once  famous  in  the 
cities  of  Europe,  and  long  celebrated  in  the 
forest  annals  of  Northern  New  York,  but  now 
forgotten,  and  found  only  in  history  and  song 
—  feebly  commemorated  by  the  name  of  an 
insignificant  railway  statioD. 


HISTORY  OF   THE  LOST  CHANNEL. 


177 


d  a  marble 
his  grave, 


iATED. 

:he  year  be- 
overed  and 
Castorland, 
at  its  mouth 
flat  granite 
it,  called  by 
lence  Rock, 
y  them  with 
not  pass  it 
memory  of 
nd.  Under 
jardines,  the 
is  journal  : 
(dependence 
is  charming 
y  chosen  by 
r  his  house, 
the  air  with 
birds  sang 
iture  has  no 
agrancc;  nor 


lay  be  added 
mous  in  the 
rated  in  the 
ork,  but  now 
)ry  and  song 
name  of  an 


ART   OF  THE   ANGLER. 


As  fish  have  grown  more  knowing,  man  has  grown 
more  cunning,  ana  has  devised  new  schemes  to  out- 
wit his  prey.  Ndw,  instead  of  fishing  downstream, 
he  fishes  upstream,  that  he  may  be  below  and  behind 
the  fish,  and,  therefore,  less  in  sight;  for  fish,  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind,  always  lie  with  their  heads  up- 
stream. Moreover,  where  he  used  to  stand,  he  now 
kneels  or  crawls.  That  his  rod  may  not  be  seen  he 
moves  horizontally — not  vertically,  as  of  old — and  he 
never,  if  he  can  help  it,  allows  the  point  to  extend 
over  the  water.  That  his  line  may  be  seen  as  little 
as  possible,  he  no  longer  searches  the  water  at  hap- 
liazard  but  reserves  his  cast  until  he  has  found  and 
noted  the  exact  position  of  a  rising  fish,  or,  at  any 
rate,  of  a  fish  lying  so  near  the  surface  as  to  suggest 
the  strong  probability  that  it  is  on  the  watch  for 
Hies.  Then,  instead  of  using  two  or  three  flies,  he 
selects  one,  imitating,  as  closely  as  may  be,  in  color 
and  size,  the  natural  flies  he  has  observed  on  the 
water. 

This  he  deftly  casts,  so  that  it  shall  fall  on  the  water 


as  lightly  as  a  tiake  of  snow,  some  18  inches  or  so 
above  the  fish,  and  floats  with  Its  wings  erect  — 
"apeak,"  as  they  say  of  a  cutter's  foresail  —  and  he 
allows  it,  without  check  or  suspicious  movement,  to 
be  carried  by  the  stream  over  the  nose  of  the  trout. 
At  the  same  moment,  if  fortune  smiles,  he  sees  a 
bubble  rise,  hears  a  faint  sound  like  a  baby's  kiss, 
and  the  tug  of  war  begins.  If  the  trout  refuses,  or 
if  the  cast  was  not  quite  accurately  made,  he  lets  the 
drift  float  on,  far  below  the  fish,  so  that  the  ripple 
may  not  disturb  the  trout,  and  proceeds,  verhtrare 
nthnlas,  to  dry  his  fly  by  whipping  it  backward  and 
forward  through  the  air  until  it  is  once  more  buoy- 
ant. He  then  tries  it  again.  Should  the  trout  refuse 
at  the  second  time  of  asking,  the  angler,  if  wise,  will 
change  his  fly  ;  if  very  wise,  will  change  his  fish, 
making  a  mental  note  to  call  again.  This  slight 
sketch  will  enable  the  reader  to  see  the  importance 
of  closely  imitating  the  files  on  the  water,  and  the 
skill  required  in  presenting  the  counterfeit  to  the 
fish. 


HISTORY   OF  THE    LOST   CHANNEL. 


During  the  French  and  English  war,  which  began 
in  1755  and  ended  in  1760,  an  expedition  was  fitted 
out  at  Oswego,  in  August  of  the  latter  year,  for  the 
final  subjugation  of  the  Canadas.  The  only  remain- 
ing strongholds  of  the  French  were  Montreal,  and 
a  strong  fort  on  an  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  river, 
about  three  miles  below  the  present  city  of  Ogdens- 
burg,  known  as  Fort  Levis,  commanded  by  a  dis- 
tinguished French  officer — Capt.  Pouchot.  The  ex- 
pedition consisted  of  10,142  British  regulars  and 
Colonial  troops  from  Massachusetts,  Connecticut, 
New  York  and  New  Jersey.  Among  the  Massachu- 
setts troops  was  Israel  Putnam,  of  Revolutionary 
fame,  then  a  lieutenant-colonel.  In  addition  to  these 
troops,  there  was  a  force  of  about  1,000  Indians, 
under  the  command  of  Sir  William  Johnson.  The 
commander  of  the  expedition  was  Gen.  Jeffrey  Am- 
herst, the  second  in  command  being  Gen.  Gage,  of 
Boston  fame.  At  that  time  the  English  had  two 
armed  vessels  on  Lake  Ontario,  the  "  Onondaga  " 
and  the  "Mohawk,"  commanded  by  Capt.  John 
Loring,  as  admiral  of  the  fleet,  which  consisted  of 
the  two  vessels,  177  batteaux  and  72  whale  boats, 
besides  staff  boats,  hospital  boats,  and  boats  for 
sutler's  use.  The  first  detachment  of  troops  sailed 
in  the  two  vessels  on  the  7th  of  August,  for  the 
rendezvous  at  "Basin  Harbor,"  Grenadier  Island,  at 
the  head  01  the  St.  Lawrence  river.     On  the  13th,  the 


entire  army  were  assembled  on  the  island,  and  early 
on  the  morning  of  the  14th  the  entire  expedition  set 
forth.  Capt.  Loring,  with  the  two  vessels,  had  gone 
ahead,  and  instead  of  keeping  straight  down  the 
South  channel,  he  crossed  just  below  the  foot  of 
Wolfe  Island  into  the  Canadian  channel.  The 
French  had  been  expecting  an  attack  from  this  direc- 
tion for  a  whole  year  ;  and,  in  consequence,  had 
kept  a  lookout  on  Carleton  Island,  from  which  point 
they  could  readily  see  when  the  British  forces  en- 
tered the  river  ;  and  with  swift  war  canoes  they 
could  easily  convey  the  intelligence  to  the  fort 
below.  When  Capt.  Loring  had  fairly  entered  the 
Navy  group,  he  was  assailed  on  every  hand.  The 
islands  seemed  to  swarm  with  French  and  Indians, 
who  were  raking  his  deck  with  musketry.  To  add 
to  his  discomfiture,  he  knew  nothing  of  the  river  nor 
of  the  labyrinth  of  islands  in  which  he  found  him- 
self ;  but,  lowering  away  a  boat  and  crew,  he  sent 
them  back  to  prevent  the  "Mohawk"  from  entering 
the  island  group  ;  and  manning  his  guns,  he  swept 
the  islands  around  him  with  grape  and  cannister,  as 
he  drifted  with  the  current,  he  knew  not  whither. 
Fortunately,  he  got  safely  clear  of  the  islands,  when, 
coming  to  an  anchor,  he  sent  two  other  boats  to  find 
the  first  one  sent  out,  but  they  returned  unsuccess* 
ful ;  nor  could  they  even  distinguish  which  of  the 
channels  was  the  one   in  which  the  first  boat  was 


I 


Ift 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  R/l'ER. 


lowered.  They  never  saw  boat  noi  crew  affain  ;  and 
ever  afterward,  in  ipcaking  of  it,  they  called  it  the 
"Place  of  the  Lost  Channel."  Two  or  three  years 
later,  the  crew  of  a  batteau  found  a  broken  yawl 
boat  bearing  the  name  "Onondaga,"  at  the  head  of 
one  of  the  channels,  which,  since  that  time,  has  been 
known  as  the  "Lost  Channel."  and  which  Cap. 
Visger  so  happily  renamed.     The  probability  is  that 


the  crew  of  the  yawl  boat  were  killed  and  scalped 
by  the  Indians,  and  their  boat  stove  and  sunk  . 
and,  after  all,  we  have  no  absolute  certainty  that 
this,  more  than  any  other  of  the  numerous  channels 
on  every  hand,  was  the  one  in  which  Capt.  Loring 
first  lowered  his  yawl  boat.  All  that  Capt.  Loring's 
journal  says  about  that  part  of  it  is  the  simple  state 
mcnt  that  they  "called  it  the  place  of  the  lost  channel." 


WHAT  CAUSED  THE  GREAT  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER,  AND  WHY  DOES  IT 

FLOW  WHERE  IT  DOES? 


PRErARED  IIY   F.   A.   HINDS,  C.   E.,  OF  WATERTOWN. 


/^THESE  are  questions  that  will  ever  present 

T^     themselves  as  the  majesty  and  immensity 

of  this  noble  river  impress  themselves  upon  us. 

Prof.  James  D.  Dana,  of  Yale  College, 
in  his  Manual  of  Geology,  declares  it  is 
not  by  chance,  or  a  haphazard  circum- 
stance, that  there  is  a  great  water-course 
flowing  through  a  valley  to  the  eastward 
in  the  middle  of  the  North  American 
continent;  but  that  it  is  "a  law  of  the 
system  of  surface-forms  of  continents." 
In  his  chapter  on  Physiographic  Geology 
he  says  : 

"  First.  The  continents  have  in  gen- 
eral elevated  mountain-borders  and  a 
low  or  basin-like  interior. 

"  Secondly.  The  highest  border  faces 
the  larger  ocean. 

"A  survey  of  the  continents  in  suc- 
cession with  reference  to  this  law  will 
exhibit  both  the  unity  of  system  among 
them  and  the  peculiarities  of  each,  de- 
pendent on  their  different  relations  to 
the  oceans. 

"  The  two  Americas  are  alike  in  lying 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  ; 
moreover.  South  America  is  set  so  far  to 
the  east  of  North  America  (being  east  of 
the  meridian  of  Niagara  Falls),  that  each 
has  an  almost  entire  ocean-contour. 
Moreover,  each  is  triangular  in  outline, 
with  the  widest  part,  or  head,  to  the 
north . 

"  North  America,  in  accordance  with 


F 


the  law,  has  on  the  Pacific  side  —  the  side  of 
the  great  ocean  —  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on 
the  Atlantic  side  the  low  Appalachians,  and 


^W-^'S 


as 

D 
O 

i 

O 

s 


o 


WHAT  CAUSED    THE  GREAT  ST.  LAWRENCE  RlVERf 


179 


and  scalped 
and  sunk  , 
crtainty  thai 
>us  channels 
Capt.  Loring 
apt.  LorinK's 
simple  state 
ost  channel.  " 


DOES  IT 


-the  side  of 
mntains,  on 
chians,  and 


i'fA<M 


D 
O 

i 

H 
O 

s 

u 

■< 
z 


o 

Is. 


between  the  two  there  is  the  great  plain  of  the 
interior. 

"  To  the  north  of  North  America  lies  the 
small  Arctic  ocean,  much  encumbered  with 
land  ;  and,  correspondingly,  there  is  no  dis- 
tinct mountain-chain  facing  the  ocean.  • 

"  The  characteristics  of  the  interior  plain  of 
the  continent  are  well  displayed  in  its  river 
systems :  the  great  Mississipi)i  system  turned 
to  the  south,  and  making  its  exit  into  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  between  the  approaching  extremi- 
ties of  the  eastern  and  western  mountain 
range;  the  St.  Lawrence  sloping  off  north- 
eastward; the  Mackenzie,  to  the  northward; 
the  central  area  of  the  plain  dividing  the  three 
systems  being  only  about  1,700  feet  above  the 
ocean,  a  less  elevation  than  about  the  head- 
waters of  the  Ohio  in  the  State  of  New  York. 

"South  America,  like  North  America,  has 
its  great  western  range  of  mountains,  and  its 
smaller  eastern;  and  the  Brazilian  line  is 
closely  parallel  to  that  of  the  Appalachians. 
As  the  Andes  face  the  South  Pacific,  a  wider 
and  probably  much  deeper  ocean  than  the 
North  Pacific,  so  they  are  more  than  twice  the 
height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  more- 
over, they  rise  more  abruptly  from  the  ocean, 
with  narrow  shore  plains. 

"  Unlike  North  America,  South  America  has 
a  broad  ocean  on  the  north  —  the  North  At- 
lantic, in  its  longest  diameter  ;  and,  accord- 
ingly, this  northern  coast  has  its  mountain 
chain  reaching  along  through  Venezuela  and 
Guiana. 

"The  drainage  of  South  America,  as  observed 
by  Professor  Guyot,  is  closely  parallel  with 
that  of  North  America.  There  are  first,  a 
southern  —  the  La  Plata  —  reaching  the  At- 
lantic towards  the  south,  between  the  converg- 
ing c.st  and  west  chains,  like  the  Mississippi; 
second,  an  eastern  system  —  that  of  the  Ama- 
zon—  corresponding  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
reaching  the  same  ocean  just  north  of  the 
eastern  mountain  border;  and,  third,  a  northern 
system  —  that  of  the  Orinoco  —  draining  the 
slopes  or  mountains  north  of  the  Amazon 
system.  The  two  Americas  are  thus  singu- 
larly alike  in  system  of  structure;  they  are 
built  on  one  model." 


Thus  one  of  the  most  noted  and  most  cred- 
ited  geologists  of  our  time,  declares  it  to  be 
as  it  were  a  fixed  law,  in  the  forming  of  con- 
tinents, that  there  should  be  a  great  river  sys- 
tem flowing  from  the  middle  portion  of  each 
continent  eastward,  or  toward  the  lesser  ocean. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  conditions  of 
this  locality  in  the  earlier  ages  of  the  world, 
with  regard  to  subsidences  and  elevations  of 
the  earth's  crust,  it  is  quite  probable  that  the 
relation  between  the  river  valley  and  the  ad- 
joining hills  and  mountains  has  remained 
approximately  the  same;  that  is,  it  was  always 
a  valley. 

There  is  evidence,  however,  that  there  was 
an  age  when  even  this  mighty  river  was  turned 
back  upon  itself,  and  the  waters  were  refused 
an  outlet  to  the  sea.  This  evidence  is  found 
in  the  elevated  lake  borders  and  gravel  or 
pebble  ridges  that  are  to  be  seen  along  the 
adjoining  highlands  in  New  York  State  and 
Ohio. 

Prof.  G.  Frederick  Wright,  of  Oberlin  Col- 
lege, in  his  book,  "The  Ice  Age  in  North 
America,"  after  discussing  the  present  topog- 
raphy of  Ohio,  and  the  evidence  that  glacial 
action  has  changed  the  course  of  many  ancient 
streams,  says : 

"  On  coming  to  the  region  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  the  influence  of  ice-barriers  in  maintain- 
ing vast  bodies  of  water  at  a  high  level  is  very 
conspicuous.  Around  the  south  «liorc  of 
Lake  Erie  there  is  an  ascending  series  of 
what  are  called  lake  ridges.  These  are  com- 
posed of  sand  and  gravel,  and  consist  largely  of 
local  material,  and  seem  to  maintain  through- 
out their  entire  length  a.  definite  level  with 
reference  to  the  lake,  though  accurate  meas- 
urements have  not  been  made  over  the  whole 
field.  The  appioximation,  however,  is  suffi- 
ciently perfect  to  permit  us  to  speak  of  them 
as  maintaining  a  uniform  level.  These  ridges 
can  be  traced  for  scores  of  miles  in  a  continu- 
ous line,  and  in  the  early  settlement  of  the 
country  were  largely  utilized  for  roads.  In 
Loraine  county,  Ohio,  an  ascending  series  of 
four  ridges  can  be  distinguished  at  different 
levels  above  the  lake.  The  highest  is  from 
200  to  220  feet  above  it :  the  next  is  approxi- 


i8o 


A  SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LA  WHENCE  RIVER. 


niately  150  to  t6o  feet;  the  next  lower  is  from 
100  to  118  feet,  and  the  next  lower  less  than 
:oo  feet,  while  some  appear  on  the  islands 
near  Sandusky,  which  are  not  over  70  feet 
above  the  water  level.  Eastward  from  Buf- 
falo portions  of  this  series  havt  been  traced, 
according  to  Gilbert,  until  they  disappear 
against  the  highlands,  near  Alden,  on  the 
Erie  railroad. 

That  the  ridges  on  Lake  Erie  mark  tem- 
porary shore-lines  of  the  lakes  cannot  well  be 
doubted,  for  they  are  not  related  to  any  great 
natural  lines  of  drainage,  but  follow  the  wind- 
ings of  a  definite  level,  receding  from  the  lake 
wherever  there  is  a  transverse  valley,  and 
forming  in  some  cases  parallel  embankments 
on  either  side  of  such  valley,  running  inland 
as  far  as  to  the  general  level  of  the  se- 
ries, and  then  returning  on  itself  upon  the 
other  side,  to  strike  off  again  parallel  with 
the  shore  at  the  same  level.  Their  relation 
to  the  lake  is  also  shown  by  the  local  charac- 
ter of  the  material.  It  is  usually  such  as 
would  wash  up  on  the  shore  out  of  the  rock 
in  place.  In  the  sandstone  region  the  ridges 
are  largely  made  up  of  sand,  mingled  with 
fragments  from  the  general  glacial  deposit. 
Over  the  regions  of  out-cropping  shales,  the 
ridges  are  composed  largely  of  the  harder 
nodules  which  have  successfully  resisted  the 
attrition  of  the  waves.  Other  evidences  that 
they  are  shore-deposits  are  their  stratification, 
the  relative  steepness  of  their  sides  toward  the 
lake  and  the  frequent  occurrence  of  the  frag- 
ments of  wood  buried  at  greater  or  less  depths 
on  their  outer  margin. 

It  need  not  be  said  that  there  has  been 
much  speculation  concerning  the  cause  which 
maintained  the  waters  of  the  lakes  at  the 
levels  indicated  by  these  ridges,  and  permitted 
them  to  fall  from  the  level  of  one  to  that  of 
another  in  successive  stages,  so  suddenly  as 
they  seem  to  have  done;  for,  from  the  absence 
of  intermediate  deposits,  it  is  evident  that  the 
formation  of  one  ridge  had  no  sooner  been 
completed  than  the  one  at  the  next  lower 
level  began  to  form.  In  the  earlier  stages  of 
glacial  investigation,  before  the  full  power 
and  flexibility  of  glacial  ice  were  appreciated, 


and  before  the  exact  course  of  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  ice-sheet  was  known,  the 
elevation  of  the  water  to  produce  these  ridges 
was  supposed  to  have  resulted  either  from  a 
general  subsidence  of  the  whole  region  to  the 
ocean- level,  or  from  the  elevation  of  a  rocky 
barrier  across  the  outlet.  Both  these  theories 
were  attended  with  insuperable  difficulties. 
In  the  first  place,  there  is  no  such  amount  of 
collateral  evidence  to  support  the  theory  of 
general  subsidence  as  there  should  be  if  it 
really  had  occurred.  The  subsidence  of  the 
lake  region  to  such  an  extent  would  have  left 
countless  other  marks  over  a  wide  extent  of 
country;  but  such  marks  are  not  to  be  found. 
Especially  is  there  an  absence  of  evidences  of 
marine  life.  The  cause  was  evidently  more 
local  than  that  of  a  general  subsidence.  The 
theory  of  the  elevation  of  a  rocky  barrier 
would  also  seem  to  be  ruled  out  of  the  field 
by  the  fact  that  no  other  direct  evidence  can 
be  found  of  such  recent  local  disturbances. 

* 

Such  facts  as  we  have  point  to  a  subsidence 
at  the  east  rather  than  to  an  elevation. 

But  a  glance  at  the  course  of  the  terminal 
moraine,  and  at.  the  relation  of  the  outlets  of 
these  lakes  to  the  great  ice  movements  of  the 
glacial  period,  brings  to  view  a  most  likely 
cause  for  this  former  enlargement  and  increase 
in  height  of  the  surface  of  the  lower  lakes.  It 
will  be  noticed  that  the  glacial  front  near 
New  York  city  was  about  ico  miles  further 
south  than  it  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Buffalo. 
Hence  the  natural  outlet  to  the  great  lakes 
though  the  Mohawk  Valley  would  not  have 
been  opened  until  the  ice-front  over  New 
England  and  Eastern  New  York  had  retreated 
to  the  north  well-nigh  150  miles.  A  similar 
amfiunt  of  retreat  of  the  ice-front  from  its 
farthest  extension  in  Cattaraugus  county,  in 
New  York,  would  have  carried  it  back  thirty 
miles  to  the  north  of  Lake  Ontario,  while  a 
similar  amount  of  retreat  from  eastern  Ohio 
would  have  left  nearly  all  the  present  bed  of 
Lake  Erie  free  from  glacial  ice.  With  little 
doubt,  therefore,  we  have,  in  the  lake  ridges 
of  Upper  Canada,  New  York  and  Ohio,  evi- 
dence of  the  existence  of  an  ice  barrier  which 
continued  to  fill  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk, 


WHAT  CAUSED    THE  GREAT  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  f 


i8l 


le  southern 
Icnown,  the 
these  ridges 
her  from  a 
;gion  to  the 
of  a  rocky 
sse  theories 

difficulties. 

amount  of 
e  theory  of 
Id  be  if  it 
nee  of  the 
d  have  left 
:  extent  of 
3  be  found, 
vidences  of 
lently  more 
ence.  The 
:ky  barrier 
Df  the  field 
idence  can 
sturbances. 

* 

subsidence 
ion. 

le  terminal 
;  outlets  of 
ents  of  the 
nost  likely 
id  increase 
r  lakes.  It 
front  near 
les  further 
of  Buffalo, 
jreat  lakes 
I  not  have 
over  New 
d  retreated 

A  similar 
jt  from  its 

county,  in 
back  thirty 
io,  while  a 
stern  Ohio 
ent  bed  of 
With  little 
ake  ridges 

Ohio,  evi- 
rrier  which 
Mohawk, 


and  choke  up  the  outlet  through  the  St.  Law- 
rence, long  after  the  glacial  front  farther  to 
the  west  had  withdrawn  itself  to  Canada  soil. 
A  study  of  these  ridges  may  yet  shed  impor 
tant  light  upon  the  length  of  time  during 
which  this  ice  barrier  continued  across  the 
valley  of  the  Mohawk. 

By  the  work  of  our  local  civil  engineers  in 
and  about  Jefferson  county,  it  has  been  found 
that  the  gravel  deposits  and  beds  of  water- 
worn  pebbles  found  along  the  first  escarpment 
of  the  Rutland  Hills  and  'he  Dry  Hills,  so 
called,  of  Jefferson  county,  correspond  in 
actual  elevation  with  about  loo  feet  above  the 
level  of  Lake  Erie,  and,  therefore,  quite  prob- 
ably mark  a  shore-line  of  the  same  lake  re- 
ferred to  by  Professor  Wright,  as  marked  by 
gravel  ridges  along  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Erie  and  as  loo  fee<  above  its  level,  and  being 
caused  by  the  damminf,;  up  of  both  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  Mohawk  River  valleys.  In 
this  way  we  can  also  find  a  plausible  theory 
for  the  formation  of  our  own  lower  gravel 
ridges,  in  the  fact  that  after  the  glacier  front 
had  receded  farther,  and  the  Mohawk  Valley 
was  opened  as  an  outlet,  the  great  inland  lake 
was  drawn  down  to  a  correspondingly  lower 
level,  and  its  waves  and  surface  motion  laslied 
a  new  shore-line,  and  gave  us  a  new  line  of 
ridges  and  water-worn  pebbles. 

The  grooves  ind  lines,  and  the  polishing  of 
the  rocks  in  ",'eflferson  county,  show  plainly 
that  the  general  direction  of  the  moving  ice  of 
this  locality  was  in  parallel  lines  with  the  gen- 
eral direction  of  the  S;.  Lawrence  River,  only 
the  ice  was  moving  up-stream  or  to  the  louth- 
east.  The  streams  and  valleys  of  Jelterson 
and  St.  Lawrence  counties  also  in  peneral 
follow  the  same  trend.  The  Oswegatchie 
and  the  Indian  Rivers  flow  first  south  westerly 
and  then,  making  a  sharp  turn,  each  flows 
back  almost  parallel  with  their  former  course 
and  with  the  guiding  trend  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Even  the  Grass  and  Raquette  Rivers, 
further  east,  find  themselves  swung  around 
into  this  general  course.  The  same  course  is 
followed  in  the  deep  valley  known  as  Rutland 
Hollow,  about  three  miles  east  of  the  city  of 
Watertown.  and  the  Sandy  Creek  and  Stony 


Brook  in  the  southerly  part  of  Jefferson 
county  follow  the  same  general  course.  The 
Black  River  itself,  from  the  Great  Bend  to 
Watertown,  takes  the  same  course,  and  a  val- 
ley now  occupied  by  low,  s'vampy  land  con- 
tinues the  same  direction  to  the  lake,  though 
the  river  itself,  from  Watertown  city,  takes  a 
lower  and  shorter  direction  through  rocky 
gorges  to  its  present  mouth    at  Dexter. 

During  the  period  of  this  higher  glacial  lake 
the  mouth  of  the  Black  River  must  have  been 
near  Carthage,  and  the  great  sand  deposits  in 
the  towns  of  LeRay  and  Wilna,  known  as  the 
Pine  Plains,  were  probably  the  shoal  water  or 
sand-bar  formation,  such  as  usually  occurs  at 
the  mouth  of  a  stream  where  it  enters  a  lake 
or  sea.  There  was  also,  probably,  a  glacier 
coming  down  the  Black  River  Valley  and  join- 
ing in,  and  following  along  with,  the  greater 
St.  Lawrence  Valley  glacier,  heretofore  de- 
scribed, as  moving  to  the  south-west.  The 
above  fact  is  proven  by  the  well-defined  me- 
dial moraine,  extending  from  near  Carthage 
through  near  Tylerville  and  the  towns  of 
Rodman  and  Ellisburg,  to  the  lake  just  south 
of  Ellis  village.  This  moraine  is  almost  en- 
tirely of  granitic  stones  and  bowlders,  the 
characteristic  rock  of  the  right  bank  of  the 
Black  River  Valley,  and  the  moraine  itself 
from  Carthage  to  the  lake  is  exactly  parallel 
with  the  St.  Lawrence  river. 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  the  Thousand 
Islands  shows  the  general  outline  of  the 
islands  to  be  long  and  narrow,  and  laid 
lengthwise  of  the  river.  An  inspection  of  the 
rocks  and  ledges,  and  hills  and  valleys  of  the 
adjoining  shore?,  and  the  surface  of  the 
islands  theriselves,  develop  the  fact  that  all 
have  followed  the  same      v  of  direction. 

The  ice  age  no  doi'.'  las  wrought  great 
changes  in  the  present  suriace  forms,  and  to 
its  influence  we  may  properly  ascribe  the 
rojnded  and  smoothed  surfaces  of  the  hard 
rocks  and  ledges,  but  it  is  also  probable  that 
there  was  a  general  direction  given  when  the 
Azoic  and  Laurentian  rocks  were  cooled  off 
from  the  great  molten  mass,  and  that  the  St. 
Lawrence  Valley,  with  its  adjacent  uplands, 
"vas  an  early  and  original  form  of  fhe  surface. 


1 82 


A   SOO'VEX/R  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


and  that  the  direction  of  the  glacier  move- 
ment here  was  due  to  this  original  configu- 
ration. 

The  parallelism,  however,  of  the  streams 
and  valleys  of  the  adjoining  country,  and  the 
groovmg  and  wearing  off  of  the  rocky  pro- 


jections, and  the  filling  up  of  old  channels, 
and  the  depositing  of  long  lines  of  stones  and 
bowlders,  foreign  to  the  locality  where  they 
are  found,  and  the  depositing  of  large  areas  of 
sand-beds  —  all  these,  and  many  other  features, 
are,  beyond  doubt,  the  work  of  a  glacial  age. 


THE  TECHNIQUE  OF   FISHING. 


IN  GovRRNOR  Alvord's  most  interesting  and 
instructive  articles  upon  the  Great  River, 
lie  has  much  to  say  about  the  "  men  he  has 
met,"  and  he  speaks  of  all  of  them  more  as 
beloved  comrades  than  as  mere  acquaintances 
or  as  the  passing  visitors  of  an  hour  ;  but  he 
does  not  say  much  about  the  technique,  the 
appliances,  the  methods  of  fishing.  Ourself 
an  amateur,  we  have  not  failed  to  seek  infor- 
mation upon  the  points  indicated;  and,  like 
all  amateurs,  we  try  to  believe  that  there  is 
some  "  royal  road  to  learning,"  by  pursuing 
which  we  may  exceptionally  "  get  there  " 
without  the  labor  and  inconveniences  of  learn- 
ing by  experience.  From  the  great  Izaak 
Walton  himself  down  to  our  own  day,  and 
taking  our  distinguished  Governor  Alvord 
as  one  of  the  brightest  teachers  of  modern 
times  in  all  arts  piscatorial,  the  methods,  the 
little  incidentals  by  which  the  agile  water- 
denizens  are  lured  into  the  voracious  frying- 
pan,  have  been  much  disputed  —  this  grand 
"faculty"  of  becoming  art  expert  fisherman 
being  as  elusive,  various,  and  sometimes  as 
intricate  as  wooing  one  of  the  fair  sex,  whose 
moods  are  often  as  contradictory  as  are  those 
of  the  most  artful  muscalonge  cr  bass,  and 
yet,  when  captured,  are  almost  "  too  sweet 
for  anything."  From  the  crookedest  tree- 
limb,  with  a  piece  of  twine  at  its  end,  to  the 
jointed  and  polished  rod,  with  silken  line  and 
silver  reel,  the  margin  is  wide  and  expensive. 
The  f)oorest  and  the  best  of  these  appliances 
have  each  won  great  renown,  but  generally  in 
the  hands  of  those  who  know  how  to  use 
them,  the  fish  being  largely  democratic,  and 
as  willing  to  take  a  wriggling  worm  from  a 
pin-hook  as  from  one  of  Skinner's  best  treble- 


arranged,  feather-decorated  devices.  An  in 
all  good  things,  in  fishing  there  are  many 
methods  ;  but  in  all  fishing,  good  bait  is  an 
indispensable  adjunct.  With  it  you  feel  as  a 
soldier  feels  with  a  good  gun  in  his  hand  ;  it 
is  his  guaranty  of  probable  success. 

The  improvements  in  fishing  tackle  have 
been  immense  during  the  past  forty  years. 
In  1849,  the  writer  saw  the  elder  Walton,  long 
since  dead,  at  work  upon  spoons  that  could 
not  now  be  given  away  —  yet  of  those  rude 
attempts  he  could  dispose  readily  of  as  many 
as  he  could  put  together.  Chapman,  at 
Theresu  and  Rochester,  had  made  many 
beautiful  and  successful  fishing  appliances. 
But  the  most  successful  man  in  the  business 
for  very  many  years  has  been  Mr.  G.  M. 
Skinner,  of  Clayton,  whose  goods  are  now 
known  all  over  the  United  States  and  Canada. 
He  began  to  study  the  art  piscatorial  upon  tlie 
(jreat  River  itself,  having  been  long  a  resident 
of  Gananoque,  Ontario,  in  his  early  youth. 
He  finally  located  at  Clayton,  a  place  possess- 
ing some  advantages  not  apparent  to  the 
superficial  observer,  among  them  being  a 
prominent  angling  resort  and  the  princij)al 
gateway  for  tourists  coming  to  the  river  over 
the  only  avenue  on  the  American  side,  viz.: 
the  N.  Y.  C.  System,  comprising  the  R.,  W.  & 
O..  and  U.  &  B.  R.  R.  R.  It  is  the  distribut- 
ing point  for  those  desiring  to  reach,  by 
w.;ter,  the  numerous  islands  and  parks  in  its 
immediate  vicinity,  and,  also,  the  fashionable 
resort,  twelve  miles  down  the  river,  of  Alex- 
andria Bay. 

In  this  romantic  and  favored  vicinity  he 
served  his  apprenticeship  in  fishing  and  ex- 
perimenting with  all  sorts,  sizes  and  shapes  of 


THE    TECHNIQUE  OF  FISHING. 


183 


1  channels, 
stones  and 
where  they 
rge  areas  of 
er  features, 
glacial  age. 


es.     Ai5  in 

are    many 

bait  is  an 

u  feel  as  a 

3  hand  ;  it 

ackle   have 

orty   years. 

'alton,  long 

that  could 

those   rude 

jf  as  many 

apman,    at 

ade    many 

appliances. 

e  business 

Mr.   G.   M. 

are   now 

id  Canada. 

l1  upon  the 

;  a  resident 

irly  youth. 

ce  possess- 

nt    to    the 

being    a 

J   principal 

river  over 

side,  viz.: 

:  R.,  W.  & 

distribut- 

reach,    by 

arks  in    its 

ashionable 

r,  of  Alex- 

icinity   he 
\  and   ex- 
shapes  of 


artificial  baits  obtainable.  He  was  not  content, 
but  strove  to  construct  a  spoon  for  his  own  use, 
which  should  have  decided  advantages  over 
any  used.  As  a  result  of  such  effort,  two 
corrugated  or  fluted  spoons  were  made;  one 
being  given  to  a  fishing  companion,  the  other 
he  retained  for  his  own  use.  In  numerous 
practical  trials,  these  two  spoons  gave  satis- 
factory evidence  of  having  uncommon  merit, 
notably  in  the  capture,  by  his  wife  and  self, 
of  a  muscalonge,  measuring  four  feet  eleven 
inches  in  length  and  weighing  forty  pounds. 

Mr.  Skinner  himself  says:  "  I  have  been  fre- 
quently asked,  what  I  considered  a  spoon  to 
represent,  as  revolving  while  fishing,  and  why 
are  fish  attracted  by  them  to  such  an  extent 
that  they  will  seize  them,  even  when  unpro- 
vided with  any  other  attraction  save  the  glint 
of  tie  cold  metal.  In  reply,  I  offer  those  of 
an  mijuisitive  turn  my  humble  opinion  that 
the  njii'. ion  or  action  of  a  revolving  lure,  un- 
quesiionably  simulates  or  means,  life  —  preyj 
to  fish,  and  as  a  natural  sequence,  life  means 
food  —  sustenance." 

Mr.  Skinner  also  relates  t!ie  following:  "A 
party  from  Clciyton  went  to  Hay  Bay,  Bay  of 
Quinte,  to  fish  for  muscalonge.  The  water  in 
Hay  Bay  is  not  very  deep  where  the  fish  are 
caught  and  the  weeds  come  very  near  the  sur- 
face. To  prevent  the  trolling-spoon  fouling,  a 
gang  ot  .-<aked  hooks  is  attached  to  the  line  some 


distance  ahead  of  the  spoon,  which  breaks  off 
or  pulls  up  the  weeds  and  allows  the  spDon  to 
go  free.  Messrs.  D.  Pratt  and  Edwin  Sey- 
mour, of  Sy  "acuse,  were  fishing  in  one  boat. 
Mr.  Seymour,  in  letting  out  line,  felt  a  tug 
when  the  line  was  out  but  a  few  yards.  Turn- 
ing he  saw  the  water  break  where  the  naked 
hook  was  and  commenced  to  haul  in,  finding 
l\e  had  caught  a  muscalonge  upon  the  naked 
or  weed-guard  hook. 

"  One  of  the  party  trolling  with  two  hand 
lines  caught  a  large  pike  under  somewhat  un- 
usual circumstances.  The  voracious  fish  had 
captured  one  troll  and  made  a  race  for  and 
secured  the  other,  having  both  of  them  se- 
curely hooked  in  his  mouth  when  hauled  in. 

"A  most  unusual  occurrence  I  would  like 
to  place  on  record.  In  August,  1883,  Miss 
Annie  Lee,  at  that  time  eleven  years  of  age, 
while  trolling  near  Clayton  for  bass,  with  a 
No.  3  gold  fluted  spoon,  which  size  is  fitted 
with  a  No.  2  hook,  struck  and  successfully 
brought  to  boat  a  muscalonge  weighing 
thirty-six  pounds,  measuring  four  feet  six 
inches  in  length.  In  the  effort  to  secure  this 
large  fish  the  guide's  gaff"  was  broken,  show- 
ing the  enormous  strength  of  the  fish,  yet  it 
was  finally  secured,  brought  in  and  exhibited 
with  those  slight  hooks  still  fast  in  its  capa- 
cious mouth  —  an  evidence  not  only  of  good 
tackle,  but  of  skillful  handling." 


TWO  OF   G.    M,    skinner's   COMBINATION    BAITS. 


CANANOQUE-PAST  ANP/  PRESENT. 


/gi  HE  pleasant  village  of  Gananoque,  with  a 
^1  population  of  about  four  thousand  souls, 
situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, opposite  Clayton,  and  at  the  outlet  of 
Gananoque  River,  is  a  place  of  no  small  im- 
portance as  a  manufacturing  center.  It  has 
an  excellent  water  power,  aggregating  manv 
hundreds  of  horse-power,  much  more  of  whit 
might  be  utilized  for  manui'acturing  purposes. 

As  a  place  of  summer  resort,  it  possesses 
exceptional  advantages  in  the  way  of  locality. 
Its  position  at  the  foot  of  the  "Admiralty 
Group  "  of  islands,  in  which  is  "  Bostwick 
Channel,"  the  finest  in  many  respects  of  any 
of  the  island  channels  in  the  river  (the  entire 
group  being  made  up  of  islands  in  themselves 
exceedingly  picturesque),  is,  in  its  entirety, 
one  of  great  beauty  and  attractiveness.  Al- 
ready cottages  are  erected  on  many  of  the 
islands,  and  as  the  great  desirableness  of  the 
locality  becomes  better  known,  the  number  of 
these  cannot  fail  to  increase;  and  still  more 
so,  if  the  present  very  unjust  and  inconsistent 
policy  of  the  Ottawa  government  should  be 
modified,  as,  indeed,  it  should  be  for  the 
benefit  of  the  village  of  Gananoque  itself. 

The  name  "  Gananoque "  is  evidently  of 
Irdian  origin;  but  which  of  two  Indian  names 
as  first  applied  to  the  locality  is  to  be  consid- 
ered as  having  given  rise  to  the  present  name, 
is  a  matter  of  some  doubt.  The  original  or- 
thography of  the  word  was  "Cadanoryhqua," 
meaning  the  "  Place  of  Health,"  or  what  was 
evidently  a  synonymous  phrase  "  Rocks-Seen- 
Under-Running-Water,"  both  of  which  are 
descriptive  of  the  locality,  so  far  as  physical 
conditions  and  a  natural  fact  are  concerned. 
On  the   other   hand,  the  Hurons  called  the 


place  "Gananoqui,"  which  means  "The 
Place  of  the  Deer."  Another  trib<;  translates 
their  term  to  mean  "A  meadow  rising  out  of 
the  waters,"  so  that  the  real  source  from  which 
the  present  name  is  derived  is  a  matter  of 
some  doubt.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  Missis- 
sauga  name  "Cadanoryhqua"  was  for  several 
years  retained  in  OiTicial  documents,  and  it 
not  until  after  the  year  1800  that  the 
■  "Gananoque"  came  into  use.  At  the 
tuuc  ui  the  survey  of  Leeds,  the  name  of 
the  Gananoque  River  was  changed  to  "  The 
Thames,"  but  it  never  was  generally  used;  in 
fact  it  only  appears  in  a  proclamation  of  Lord 
Dorrhester  (Sir  Guy  Carlton)  while  for  the 
second  time  Governor-General  of  Canada,  in 
1788. 

From  the  variety  and  extent  of  its  manu- 
facturing interests,  Gananoque  has  been,  not 
inaptly,  named  the  Birmingham  of  Canada, 
and  as  a  settlement  has  now  entered  upon 
the  second  century  of  its  existence.  A  brief 
sketch  of  its  early  settlement  may  be  of  some 
interest  to  the  general  reader,  and  is  therefore 
subjoined.  Two  men,  Sir  John  Johnson,  an 
officer  of  the  British  army  during  the  War  of 
the  Revolution,  at  which  time  he  commanded 
an  organization  of  loyalists  popularly  known 
as  "Johnson's  Royal  Greens,"  and  Colonel 
Joel  Stone,  were  the  first  to  receive  grants  of 
land  which  covered  the  entire  limits  of  the 
village,  and  more,  as  it  now  stands.  Of  these 
two,  Col.  Stone  was  the  first  settler,  coming 
up  the  river  from  Cornwall  in  the  summer  of 
1792,  taking  passage  in  a  batteau  which  was 
bound  to  Kingston.  These  grants  of  land 
were  made  in  1792,  and  the  patent  to  Col. 
Stone  was   issued   December  31,    1798,  and 


CAN ANOQUE—  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 


185 


ms  "The 
:  translates 
ing  out  of 
Tom  which 
matter  of 
the  Missis- 
for  several 
nts,  and  it 
o  that  the 
e.  At  the 
;  name  of 
i  to  "  The 
ly  used;  in 
on  of  Lord 
ile  for  the 
Canada,  in 

its  manu- 

been,  not 

Canada, 

red  upon 

A  brief 

)e  of  some 

therefore 

hnson,  an 

le  War  of 

)mmanded 

rly  known 

Colonel 

grants  of 

its  of  the 

Of  these 

r,  coming 

mimer  of 

hich  was 

of   land 

to  Col. 

798,   and 


V 


covers  "A  certain  triangular  tract  upon  the 
River  Cadanoryhqua,"  etc.,  which  was  located 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  Sir  John  John- 
son's tract  was  located  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  but  his  patent  was  not  issued  until  May 
17,  1802.  Each  grant  extended  to  the  center 
of  the  Gananoque  River,  then  known  by  its 
Indian  name  as  above. 

Col.  Stone's  patent  was  computed  to  con- 
tain 700  acres  of  land,  to  which  were  added, 
later,  two  additional  patents  of  200  acres  each, 
making  in  all  1,100  acres;  while  Col.  John- 
son's grant  covered  1,534  acres.  At  the  time 
of  Col.  Stone's  arrival,  a  Frenchman,  named 
Carey,  lived  on  Tidd's  Island,  now  Fremont 
Park,  with  whom  he  formed  a  temporary  part- 
nership, erecting  a  shanty  on  the  mainland,  on 
the  point  now  occupied  by  a  lumber  yard. 
Having  secured  a  couple  of  cows,  their  shanty 
was  opened  as  a  house  of  entertainment,  being 
the  first  tavern  for  many  miles  along  the  Cana- 
dian shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  During  the' 
absence  of  the  proprietors  one  day,  the  hotel 
burned  and  the  partnership  ended,  each  of 
them  entering  into  business  for  himself.  Mr. 
Stone  proceeded  to  clear  a  plot  of  land  on 
what  is  know  King  street,  on  which  he  erected 
a  log-house,  it  being,  with  the  exception  of 
the  shanty  above  spoken  of,  the  first  house 
erected  in  Gananoque.  His  next  enterprise 
was  the  building  of  a  schooner  of  forty  tons 
measurement,  called  the  "  Leeds  Trader," 
which  ran  on  the  lake  and  river  for  many 
years.  Then  he  built  a  saw-mill,  which  stood 
on  the  site  of  the  present  Electric  Light  Com- 
pany's building ;  following  that  with  a  frame 
house  of  two  stories  in  height,  fastened  with 
wrought  nails  brought  from  England.  It  was 
erected  in  1796,  and  for  half  a  century  it 
was  known  as  the  "  Red  House,"  having  been 
painted  that  color.  This  was  built  on  the 
point  near  where  the  upper  end  of  the  lumber 
yard  wharf  is  now.  Where  the  steel  and  wire 
shop  now  is,  Mr.  Stone  built  another  frame 
house,  known  as  the  "  Yellow  House,"  and 
which  became  his  residence,  after  his 
marriage  to  Mrs.  Dayton.  Later,  he  built  a 
long,  low  fraiue  house  with  a  veranda  along 
its  entire  front,  just  west  of  the  **  West  End 


Store,"  which  he  made  his  residence  as  long 
as  he  lived.  The  building  was  burned  only 
thirteen  years  ago,  and  the  lot  where  it  stood 
is  yet  vacant.  In  1852,  the  late  John  Bulger 
tore  down  the  "  Red  House,"  and  the  frame 
was  re-erected  on  Garden  street.  It  is  the 
house  now  occupied  by  Mr.  James  Beatty. 
The  "Yellow  House  "  was  burned  in  1850. 

Col.  Stone  was  evidently  a  man  of  great 
energy,  and  was  unceasing  in  his  efforts  to  im- 
prove his  holdings,  keeping  all  the  time  an 
eye  to  the  "main  chance,"  as  did  his  ances- 
tors, and  as  he  himself  had  been  trained  to  do 
in  the  school  of  actual  business.  His  proce- 
dure was  in  direct  contrast  with  that  of  Sir 


COL.    STONE. 
(Kindly  loaned  us  by  Mr.  Britlon,  editor  "  Recorder.") 

John  Johnson,  who  paid  no  attention  what- 
ever to  his  estate,  only  through  an  agent;  in 
fact,  it  is  a  question  whether  he  ever  visited 
his  possessions  in  person,  so  that  to  Col.  Stone 
belongs  all  the  honors  of  a  first  settler,  and 
hence  a  brief  biographical  sketch  may  prove 
interesting. 

Joel  Stone  was  born  in  Guilford,  Connecti- 
cut, August  7,  1749.  Before  he  was  two 
years  of  age,  his  father  removed  to  Litchfield, 
where,  "  by  indefatigable  labor  and  industry, 
he  improved  a  competency  of  land  of  which 
he  was  proprietor."  During  his  minority, 
Joel  labored  on  the  "  competency,"  but  when 
he  became  of  age,  he  adopted  a  more  active 


ena 


186 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE   ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


mode  of  life,  and  became  a  travelling  mer- 
chant; or,  in  tht  vernacular  of  those  days  a 
"  Yankee  peddler."  Within  three  years  he 
travelled  over  very  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
then  settled  portions  of  the  country,  return- 
ing with  a  large  amount  of  property.  In 
1774,  he  entered  into  a  mercantile  partner- 
ship with  Jabez  Bacon,  of  Woodbury,  Conn., 
their  -^.rticles  of  copartnership  binding  them 
for  six  years  as  copartners  in  "  Merchandizing 
and  all  things  thereto  belonging;  and  in  buy- 
ing, selling,  vending  and  retailing  all  sorts  of 
goods,  wares  and  commodities  whatsoever." 
These  articles  of  copartnership  are  yet  in  ex- 
istence. This  partnership  flourished,  and  the 
partners  became  wealthy;  but  the  breaking 
out  of  the  Revolutionary  War  ended  the 
partnership  and  one  of  them  assumed  the 
hazards  and  glories  of  a  military  life. 

Mr.  Stone  attempted  for  a  time  to  reman 
neutral  and  trade  with  both  parties,  .iiojgh 
his  sympathy  was  with  the  Royalists.  But  he 
was  soon  obliged  to  declare  himself  for  me 
side  or  the  other.  To  remain  neutral,  was  to 
be  suspected  by  both,  and  in  1776  he  was 
peremptorily  ordered  by  the  officials  of  Con- 
gress to  declare  immediately  whether  he  would 
take  up  arms  against  the  British  government, 
or  furnish  a  substitute.  He  refused  to  do 
either ;  and  being  warned  that  he  would  be 
called  to  a  strict  account,  he  fled  hurriedly  to 
New  York,  which  was  then  held  by  the  British 
force j,  and  which  he  reached  in  safety;  and 
on  the  20th  of  June,  1777,  he  was  enrolled  in 
Governor  Wentworth's  command,  by  a  com- 
mission dated  .April  16,  1778.  He  recruited 
fifty-four  men  or  more  for  two  years'  service, 
under  command  of  Sir  William  Howe.  He 
went  on  this  mission  to  Huntington,  Long 
Island,  where  he  was  surprised  while  asleep 
and  taken  prisoner,  May  12,  1778,  by  a  com- 
pany of  whaleboat  men,  and  conveyed  to 
Fairfield,  Connecticut.  He  was  held  in  close 
custody  and  charged  with  high  treason.  But 
he  managed  to  escape  on  the  23d  of  July,  and 
a  week  later  was  back  on  Long  Island. 

In  the  meantime,  the  selectmen,  the  con- 
stables, bailiffs,  and  the  courts  of  Connecticut 
had  been  attending  to  the  property  left  there 


by  Mr.  Stone  when  he  fled  to  New  York.  By 
due  process  of  law,  as  it  then  obtained,  his 
real  and  personal  estate  was  confiscated,  and 
the  proceeds,  after  deducting  costs,  were  ren- 
dered for  benefit  of  the  State.  Not  only  did 
the  magistrates  and  County  Court  adjudicate 
in  the  matter  and  issue  executions,  but  the 
Probate  Court  was  also  called  into  operation, 
as  dealing  with  the  effects  of  one  who  was  de- 
scribed in  the  inventory  as  '*  politically  dead." 
The  personal  property  thus  escheated  appears 
by  the  returns  to  have  amounted  tO;^49i:  6;  9, 
"  at  the  rate  of  twenty-eight  shillings  for  an 
English  guinea,  or  six  shillings  for  a  Spanish 
milled  dollar."  The  real  estate  was  appraised 
under  oath  at  jQzS'^'-  "^i'-  °-  Or^e  piece  01 
land,  in  which  Mr.  Stone  had  a  one-half  inter- 
est, in  the  township  of  Winchester,  was  not 
included,  for  the  reason,  probably,  that  his 
pursuers  had  no  knowledge  of  it.  According 
to  Mr.  Stone's  own  statement,  the  firm  of 
Bacon  &  Stone  had  a  capital  of  ^12,000  ster- 
ling in  stock;  and  that  in  addition  to  his  share 
of  that,  his  books,  bonds  and  all  his  personal 
effects  were  confiscated. 

During  his  residence  in  New  York,  Mr. 
Stone  formed  an  acquaintance  with«the  family 
of  William  Moore,  a  sea  captain,  and  on  the 
23d  of  March,  1780,  he  was  married  to  Leah 
Moore,  the  captain's  daughter.  The  mar- 
riage ceremony  was  celebrated  by  Rev.  Charles 
Inglis,  who  was  then  rector  of  Trinity  church, 
New  York. 

In  addition  to  his  pension,  Mr.  Stone,  in 
common  with  all  who  had  served  the  King  in 
the  Revolutionary  War,  was  entitled  to  a 
grant  of  land.  And  after  his  arrival  at  Que- 
bec, he  endeavored  by  inquiries  and  personal 
investigation  to  ascertain  what  would  be  the 
most  suitable  locality. 

Mr.  Stone  settled  in  Cornwall  with  his 
family,  then  consisting  of  his  wife,  his  son, 
William  Moore  Stone,  and  his  daughter,  Mary. 
He  purchased  some  land  at  Cornwall,  and  ex- 
pected to  draw  800  or  1,000  acres  besides. 
He  erected  a  dwelling  and  still  house,  and 
otherwise  endeavored  to  provide  a  permanent 
home.  But  he  was  unable  to  secure  as  much 
land  as  he  wanted.     Most  of  it  had  been  pre- 


GANANOQUE  —  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 


187 


York.  By 
)tained,  his 
seated,  and 
,  were  ren- 
)t  only  did 

adjudicate 
ns,  but  the 
I  operation, 
rho  was  de- 
:ally  dead." 
ted  appears 
^491:6:9, 
lings  for  an 
•  a  Spanish 
IS  appraised 
le  piece   01 
e-halt  in  let- 
ter, was  not 
3ly,  that  his 
According 
the    firm  of 
^12,000  ster- 

to  his  share 
his  personal 

York,  Mr. 
h"the  family 
and  on  the 
ied  to  Leah 
The  mar- 
Rev.  Charles 
inity  church, 

Ir.  Stone,  in 
the  King  in 
titled  to  a 
ival  at  Que- 
and  personal 
rould  be  the 

ill  with  his 
vife,  his  son, 
ghter,  Mary. 
wall,  and  ex- 
cres  besides. 
1  house,  and 
a  permanent 
ure  as  much 
ad  been  pre- 


empted before  he  arrived,  and  he  was,  there- 
fore, compelled  to  come  further  towards  the 
west  in  search  of  unclaimed  territory.  He  went 
to  Quebec  and  spent  some  time  in  an  effort  to 
secure  all  the  land  along  the  Gananoque  River. 
But  Sir  John  Johnson  brought  sufficient  influ- 
ence to  bear  upon  the  government  to  cause  a 
compromise  of  claims.  It  was  decided  that  Sir 
John  should  be  awarded  all  the  land  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Gananoque  River,  and  Mr.  Stone 
all  on  the  west  side,  the  boundary  of  each  to 
be  the  center  of  the  river.  Just  when  this 
decision  was  arrived  at  is  not  set  down.  But 
Mr.  Stone  took  possession  of  his  portion  in 
1792,  and  the  patent  was  issued  six  years  later. 

In  1 79 1,  Col.  Stone  went  to  Connecticut 
with  his  two  children,  William  and  Mary, 
whom  he  placed  at  school  in  Hartford,  having 
previously  placed  a  son  at  school  in  Montreal. 
Leah,  his  wife,  died  at  Cornwall,  about  1793, 
but  the  exact  date  is  not  known.  In  1798, 
Mr.  Stone,  who  had  then  been  five  years  a 
widower,  and  had  established  himself  at 
Gananoque,  decided  to  marry  a  second  time, 
and  made  formal  proposal  to  Mrs.  Abigail 
Dayton,  widow,  who  lived  in  the  township  of 
Hurford,  in  Upper  Canada. 

Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  wooer  prosecuted 
his  suit  with  vigor,  and  in  time,  the  fair  ob- 
ject of  his  affections  surrendered  at  discretion, 
but  not  in  haste.  They  were  married  in  the 
summer  of  1799,  removing  to  the  residence  of 
Col.  Stone,  at  Gananoque. 

From  that  time  on,  the  particulars  of  Mr. 
Stone's  life  are  so  much  a  part  of  the  progress 
and  growth  of  Gananoque  as  to  belong  more 
properly  to  the  history  of  the  town.  He  filled 
numerous  offices  both  under  the  government 
and  by  local  appointment.  He  was  the  first 
Collector  of  Customs;  a  Commissioner,  or 
justice  of  the  Peace;  Chairman  of  the  Court 
of  General  Sessions  of  the  Peace  for  the 
Johnstown  District;  Commissioner  for  ad- 
ministering the  oath  to  half-pay  officers;  Re- 
turning Officer  at  County  election  of  Member 
of  Parliament  in  181 2;  a  member  of  the  Land 
Hoard  for  District  of  Johnston,  established  in 
1819  for  locating  settlers;  and  Road  Overseer 
for  the  Township  of  Leeds. 


By  a  commission  dated  3d  January,  1809, 
under  the  hand  and  seal  of  Francis  Gore, 
Lieut. -Governor  of  Upper  Canada,  he  was 
appointed  colonel  in  the  2d  Regiment  of 
Militia  for  the  County  of  Leeds,  and  was 
thereafter  known  as  Colonel  Stone.  This 
office  he  resigned  in  January,  1822. 

Three  children  were  born  to  Mr.  Stone 
during  the  life  of  his  first  wife.  His  eldest 
son  William,  who  is  referred  to  as  "Billy  "  in 
Mr.  Stone's  letters,  grew  to  maturity  at 
Gananoque,  assisting  in  the  general  affairs  of 
his  father,  and  for  a  time  holding  the  position 
of  Deputy  Collector  of  Customs.  He  died  in 
1809,  aged  twenty-eight  years. 

In  the  fall  of  1833,  the  Colonel  caught  a 
severe  cold,  and  died  on  the  20th  November, 
in  the  eighty-fifth  year  of  his  age.  Mrs.  Stone 
survived  him  by  nearly  ten  years,  and  died 
August  4,  1843,  in  her  ninety-third  year. 

The  events  of  his  settlement  in  Gananoque 
have  already  been  alluded  to,  but  we  will  add 
one  brief  letter,  which  sets  forth  the  energy 
and  thrift  of  ''"ol.  Stone,  better  by  far  than 
any  descriptijn  could: 

Montreal,  i6(h  July,  iSoi. 

My  Dkar: — I  received  3-our  letter  dated  the  next 
day  after  I  left  home,  7th  June,  about  three  days 
past  by  mere  accident.  I  mark  well  the  contents 
thereof,  approve  of  what  you  have  done,  and  must 
with  pleasure  submit  to  your  own  wisdom  to  do  as 
you  think  best  until  I  cm  get  home,  which  I  do  not 
intend  shall  be  long,  but  I  have  not  yet  been  able  to 
deliver  any  of  my  boards  and  plank.  Andrew, 
William  and  David  will  sett  olF  to-morrow  mor..ing 
with  the  boat  loaded  with  the  following  packaf;es 
and  articles  agreeable  to  the  enclosed  bills:  One 
large  cask  wine,  two  trunks,  one  small  trunk,  the 
box  or  chest,  two  b-rrells,  two  kegs  (one  best  Made- 
ira wine,  oiiu  cidci  vinegar),  one  cask  nails,  two 
small  bales,  one  shovel,  one  spade.  Enclosed  I 
send  you  four  keys,  one  to  each  of  the  trunks,  and 
one  to  the  chest.  Please  to  be  careful  in  unpacking 
the  pork  barrel.  It  has  a  bottle  of  castor  oil  and  a 
phial  of  pickery  roped  up  in  the  blankets. 

In  the  barrels,  and  in  your  chest,  you  will  '"nd  a 
number  of  articles  we  had  on  board  the  raft,  two  or 
three  axes,  &c.,  and  you  will  find  tobacco  and  snuff 
(viz.),  2  lbs.  snufTonly;  also  Bohea  tea  in  one  of  the 
casks,  and  Hyson  tea  in  one  of  the  large  trunks. 
The  Bohea  tea  is  6s.  per  lb.  in  case  you  sell  any,  and 
the  tobacco  3s.  Please  to  put  the  tobacco  in  some 
moist  place. 


1 88 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


%% 


The  other  articles  I  have  marked  the  price  to  sell 
at  in  the  bills  in  my  own  hand  vvriting.  I  need  not 
caution  you  to  sell  for  cash  only,  except  where  we 
owe  and  to  pay  for  what  we  must  buy.  The  large 
cask  of  wine  may  be  very  good  to  drink  as  wine  and 
water,  and  you  may  sell  it  at  5s  per  gallon  if  you  can, 
but  I  bought  it  with  a  view  of  making  vinegar  only. 
I  gave  IS  per  gallon  for  it.  The  articles  in  the  large 
trunk  where  the  Hyson  tea  is  are  not  marked,  nor  is 
the  bill  sent.  You  will  find  Turlington's  drops  in 
the  trunk  where  the  Hyson  tea  is,  which  you  may 
sell  at  5s  per  bottle,  but  those  in  the  pork  barrel, 
large  phials  keep  for  your  own  use.  You  will  set 
the  people  at  work  as  you  find  most  necessary  until 
1  get  home.  I  must,  if  possible,  bring  down  another 
raft  thii  season.  Old  Mr.  Chaple  will  be  up  again 
as  soon  as  he  has  done  visiting  his  friends. 

I  am  my  dear  in  great  haste,  with  a  very  bad  pen 
and  ink  and  my  best  exertions. 

Your  most  affectionate, 

JoEi.  Stone. 

For  much  of  the  matter  relating  to  Col. 
Stone,  we  are  indebted  to  Freeman  Britton, 
Esq.,  editor  of  the  "  Gananoqiie  Reporter." 

So  far  as  the  improvement  of  his  water- 
power  was  concerned,  Col.  Stone  did  but  little 
towards  it,  leasing  it  finally  to  his  son-in-law, 
Charles  McDonald,  who,  in  181 2,  began  to 
carry  on  an  extensive  business.  He  built  a 
saw-mill,  and  a  small  grist-mill,  and  engaged 
largely  in  the  lumber  trade,  shipping  large 
quantities  to  Quebec,  and  also  supplying  the 
government  with  ship  timber,  several  war 
vessels  being  on  the  stocks  at  Kingston,  at 
that  time.  In  18 17,  Chas.  McDonald  was 
joined  by  his  brother  John,  and  later  by  an- 
other brother  Collin;  and  in  1826,  the  firm  of 
"C.  &  J.  McDonald  and  Brother"  erected 
the  largest  flouring  mill  in  the  Province.  To 
supply  this  mill,  grain  was  brought  in  schoon- 
ers from  the  West;  and  owing  to  its  capacity 
of  250  barrels  per  day,  was  for  many  years 
enabled  to  supply  one-quarter  of  all  the  flour 
received  at  Montreal.  The  flour  was  sent 
down  in  batteaux  and  Durham  boats,  a  bat- 
teau  load  being  from  150  to  200  barrels, 
while  a  Durham  boat  carried  450  barrels. 
The  forwarding  business  at  that  time  was  in 
the  hands  of  H.  &  S.  Jones.  The  block 
houses  built  at  Gananoque,  and  on  Chimney 
Island,  were  built  for  the  government  by 
Charles  McDonald. 


The  first  store  in  Gananoque  was  opened  in 
1812  by  Chas.  McDonald,  and  the  McDonalds 
also  built  the  first  church  in  the  place.  It 
was  free  for  all  denominations,  and  was  erected 
in  1832.  Some  four  or  five  years  later,  the 
Methodists  erected  a  small  wooden  building 
on  the  site  of  the  present  church.  This  de- 
nomination furnished  the  first  regular  services 
in  the  village.  The  first  resident  minister  was 
Rev.  William  Carson.  Among  the  first  settlers 
of  the  village  was  Ephraim  Webster,  who  was 
afterward  collector  of  customs  at  Brockville. 
In  183 1,  the  steamer  William  IV  was  built  at 
Gananoque  by  a  joint  stock  company.  This 
was  the  steamer  that  the  noted  Bill  Johnston 
and  his  followers  attempted  to  capture  during 
the  so-called  Patriot  war,  by  stretching  a 
chain  across  a  narrow  channel  between  two 
islands.  The  attempt  failed,  but  was  suc- 
cessful as  to  the  Sir  Robert  Peel,  related  else- 
where. 

The  writer's  acknowledgments  are  due  to 
his  honor  the  mayor  and  several  aldermen  for 
many  favors  in  the  way  of  information  af- 
forded, but  especially  to  the  Hon.  C.  E.  Brit- 
ton, whose  interest  in  the  welfare  o-f  his  town 
is  strong  and  abiding. 

In  concluding  this  brief  sketch  of  the  early 
history  of  Gananoque,  the  writer  desires  to 
add,  that  steps  are  now  being  taken  to  build 
an  electric  railway  from  that  village  to  the 
city  of  Kingston.  In  fact  there  is  at  this 
writing  a  bill  before  Parliament  asking  for  an 
act  of  incorporation,  which  will  no  doubt  be 
granted.  Its  situation,  its  water  power,  its 
commercial  opportunities,  its  manufacturing 
privileges,  entitle  Gananoque  to  a  population 
of  fully  15,000  souls;  and  this  it  cannot  fail  to 
realize,  unless  its  leading  citizens,  by  injudi- 
cious acts,  shall  retard  the  onward  march  of 
improvement,  and  paralyze  progress.  A  great 
number  of  lakes  in  its  rear  not  only  guarantee 
the  perpetuity  of  its  water  power,  but  make 
the  village  the  gateway  to  the  finest  fishing 
and  hunting  grounds  in  America.  That  Gan- 
anoque is  destined  to  become  one  of  the 
thriving  cities  of  the  St.  Lawrence  region 
admits  of  but  slight  doubt. 


B-'Sf/ 


IS  opened  in 
McDonalds 
;  place.  It 
was  erected 
s  later,  the 
en  building 
.  This  de- 
ilar  services 
minister  was 
first  settlers 
er,  who  was 
;  Brockville. 
was  built  at 
pany.  This 
!ill  Johnston 
jture  during 
itretching  a 
etween  two 
Lit  was  suc- 
related  else- 
are  due  to 
ildermen  for 
irmation  af- 
C.  E.  Brit- 
;  of  his  town 

of  the  early 
•  desires  to 
ken  to  build 
lage  to  the 
i  is  at  this 
iking  for  an 

0  doubt  be 
power,  its 

mufacturing 

1  population 
annot  fail  to 
s,  by  injudi- 
d  march  of 
ss.  A  great 
y  guarantee 
r,  but  make 
nest    fishing 

That  Gan- 

one   of    the 

Cnce    region 


BROCKVILLE, 


THE   GATE-CITY  TO  THE   THOUSAND    ISLANDS. 


^1 UST  at  the  foot  of  the  Thousand  Islands, 
^Si'  126  miles  west  of  Montreal,  and  fifty 
miles  east  of  Kingston,  stands  the  beautiful 
town  of  Brockville.  Its  history  is  one  of  inter- 
est, as  being  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in 
Ontario,  and  as  one  which  has  not  stood  still, 
but  has  made  a  steady  progress,  a  solid  sub- 
stantial growth,  in  step  and  cadence  with 
modern  improvement.  The  modern  "  booms," 
with  their  consequent  reaction, have  never  been 
inflicted  upon  Brockville,  and  in  consequence 
it  has  felt  none  of  the  enervating  influences 
sequent  upon  periods  of  undue  inflation. 

In  1784,  one  hundred  and  eleven  years  ago, 
Adam  Cole,  having  left  the  United  States,  and 
being  still  desirous  of  remaini%g  under  the 
protection  of  the  British  flag,  to  which  he 
deemed  his  allegiance  due,  sailed  up  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  landed  on  the  site  of  the  pres- 
ent city  of  Brockville;  but  from  the  fact  that 
to  him  the  land  seemed  rough  and  uninviting, 
he  pushed  on  to  a  point  six  miles  above,  and 
finally  settled  at  what  is  now  known  as  Cole's 
Ferry.  In  the  following  year,  another  enthu- 
siastic U.  E.  Loyalist,  William  Buell,  located 
on  the  lot  where  a  large  part  of  the  western 
portion  of  the  city  now  stands.  Shortly  after- 
ward, Charles  Jones,  following  in  the  footsteps 
of  his  predecessor,  took  up  the  adjoining  lot 
on  the  east.  These  first  settlers  were  of 
course  subjected  to  all  the  inconveniences  in- 
cident to  pioneer  life;  but  in  a  short  time  the 
little  settlement  became  a  distributing  point 
for  government  stores,  which  were  supplied 
to  settlers  in  the  shape  of  provisions  and  im- 
plements, and  quite  soon  it  sprang  into  some 
prominence,  and  began  to  grow. 


The  surrounding  township  was  named 
Elizabethtown,  and  for  a  number  of  years  the 
village  was  known  by  that  name,  and  also  by 
the  name  of  Buell's  Bay.  Finally,  the  resi- 
dents began  to  favor  a  more  dignified  title, 
and  then  no  little  difference  of  opinion  arose 
concerning  the  name  of  the  place,  which,  as 
is  almost  always  the  case,  resulted  in  a  pa- 
tronymic bestdwed  by  outsiders,  which  was 
far  more  expressive  as  to  fact,  than  conducive 
to  dignity.  Mr.  Buell  and  his  friends  were 
extremely  desirous  of  naming  it  "  Williams- 
town,"  in  honor  of  William  Buell,  the  first 
settler.  On  the  other  hand,  Mr.  Jones  and 
his  adherents,  insisted  that  "  Charlestown  " 
should  be  the  name,  after  Mr.  Charles  Jones; 
and  between  the  factions  such  a  strife  was 
engendered,  and  so  bitter  was  this  miniature 
war  of  the  rival  roses,  that  the  outlying  resi- 
dents becoming  disgusted  with  the  endless 
bickerings,  incontinently  bestowed  the  nick- 
name of  "  Snarleytown  "  upon  the  place,  which 
adhered  to  it  for  a  long  time. 

In  181 1,  however,  a  new  system  of  grand 
tactics  was  introduced  into  the  local  war,  and 
Mr.  Buell  demonstrated  his  ability  as  a  tac- 
tician by  having  his  property  surveyed  and 
laid  out  into  town  lots,  setting  aside  grounds 
for  a  public  square,  court-house,  etc.,  of  which 
he  had  a  map  published  on  which  was  duly 
set  forth  desirable  properties  for  sale,  thus  in- 
augurating for  that  day  and  age  a  veritable 
approach  to  the  modern  "boom,"  or,  at  all 
events,  as  near  to  one  as  Brockville  has  ever 
experienced.  Desirous  of  becoming  a  large 
landed  proprietor,  Mr.  Jones  was  averse  to 
disposing  of  his  property  in  like  manner,  and 


Kvm 


190 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


therefore  practically  acknowledged  that  he 
was  out-generaled,  but  he  was  by  no  means 
defeated.  The  factions  grew  and  multiplied 
in  numbers,  and  the  feud  in  intensity,  for  a 
decade,  until  it  seemed  a  foregone  conclusion 
that  "  Snarleytown "  was  likely  to  become 
the  permanent  designation  of  the  locality. 
Finally,  in  182 1,  Governor-General  Sir  Isaac 
Brock,  being  in  the  place,  the  dispute  was  re- 
ferred to  him,  and  he  immediately  settled  the 
difficulty  by  bestowing  his  own  name  upon 
the  place.     It  was  a  happy  thought,  and  like 


schooner  Julia,  and  two  British  vessels,  the 
Earl  of  Moira  and  the  Duke  of  Gloucester, 
had  an  engagement  opposite  the  town,  whitli 
lasted  for  three  hours,  ceasing  by  mutual  con- 
sent when  darkness  came  on,  neither  parly 
having  suffered  any  material  damages  ;  —  an 
emphatic  and  significant  comment  upon  \.\w 
skill  of  both  parties  in  the  use  of  artillery.  On 
the  night  of  the  6th  of  February,  1813,  Cajit. 
Forsyth,  of  the  Rifles,  then  commandant  at 
Ogdensburg,  marched  up  the  river  to  Morris- 
town,  and,  crossing  on   the  ice,  took   posses- 


LOOKING    EAST   FROM    ARCADE,  WATERTOWN,  N.  Y.,  SHOWING    SNOW    OK    WINTER    1894-95. 


pouring  oil  upon  troubled  waters,  it  calmed 
the  storm  by  satisfying  the  contending  fac- 
tions, who  merged  their  differences  into 
"  Brockville,"  a  name  ever  since  retained,  and 
one  to  be  proud  of.  As  an  old  resident  of 
the  city  remarked  to  the  writer:  "It  was  a 
shrewd  exemplification  of  the  fable  of  the 
monkey,  the  cats  and  the  cheese  —  but  it 
worked  well  and  satisfied  all  parties." 

During  the  war  of  1812-15,  Brockville  was 
often  the  scene  of  lively  operations.  On  the 
29th  of  July,  1 81 2,  the  United  States  armed 


sion  of  the  town,  capturing  several  of  its 
prominent  citizens,  and  releasing  several  pris- 
oners from  the  jail,  most  of  whom  were  Ameri- 
cans who  had  been  taken  prisoners  and  con- 
fined there.  It  is  related  that  Capt.  Forsyth 
refused  to  release  a  prisoner  who  was  incar- 
cerated on  a  charge  of  murder;  but  in  his  de- 
fense his  counsel  sought  to  win  a  point  in  his 
favor  by  establishing  the  fact  that,  while  he 
might  have  escaped,  he  would  not,  thus  creat- 
ing a  strong  inference  of  his  innocence.  He 
was,  nevertheless,  convicted  and  hanged. 


THE  BROCK  VILLE  OF    W-DA  Y. 


191 


essels,  the 
iloucestcr, 
iwn,  whicli 
lutual  con- 
ther  party 
iges  ;  —  an 
;  upon  tlif 
illery.  On 
1813,  Capt. 
nan  dan  t  at 
to  Morris- 
ok   posses- 


Fifty-two  prisoners,  with  a  large  amount  of 
stores  and  ammunition,  was  the  result  of  the 
capture  of  Brockville,  and  an  equal  number  of 
American  prisoners  was  the  result  of  a  ••*»- 
prisal  which  immediately  followed,  in  which 
Capt.  Forsyth  was  badly  beaten  at  Ogdensburg 
')y  the  Canadian  volunteers  under  Capt.  Mc- 
Donnell, who,  in  addition  to  the  prisoners,  cap- 
tured a  large  amount  of  military  stores,  several 
pieces  of  artillery,  some  small  arms,  besides 
destroying  the  barracks.  The  Americans  lost 
twenty-three  in  killed  and  wounded,  and  were 


toward  the  dignity  and  importance  of  a  city. 
The  old  methods  of  navigation  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  batteaux  and  Durham  boats,  have 
given  way  to  elegant  steamers,  which  have  re- 
duced the  time  from  Montreal  from  weeks  to 
hours.  Railways  have  replaced  the  uncertain 
stage  coach,  and  now  few  towns  are  more 
favorably  situated  than  is  Brockville,  as  regards 
connections  both  by  water  and  by  rail.  The 
main  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  runs 
through  the  town,  and  has  been  an  important 
factor  in  its  development.     Direct  communi- 


eral  of  its 
everal  pris- 
rere  Ameri- 
s  and  con- 
)t.  Forsyth 
was  incar- 
t  in  his  de- 
)oint  in  his 
t,  while  he 
thus  creat- 
:ence.  He 
anged. 


THE   SNOW    IN    STREETS    OF   WATERTOWN,  WINTER   OF    I894-95. 


forced  to  retreat  to  Black  Lake.  Since. the 
senseless  and  uncalled  for  disturbance  of  1837, 
which  culminated  in  the  surrender  of  the  rebels 
at  the  Windmill,  and  the  ripple  caused  by  the 
Fenian  Raid,  Brockville  has  enjoyed  uninter- 
rupted peace,  and  has  steadily  thriven,  pursu- 
ing the  even  tenor  of  its  way,  until  now  we 
have 

The  Brockville  of  To-Dav. 

With   a  population  of  very  nearly,  if  not 
quite   10,000,  Brockville  is  fairly  on  the  road 


cation  with  Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Do- 
minion, only  seventy-four  miles  distant,  is  af- 
forded by  the  Canadian  P  .  .."j  Railway, 
which  absorbed  into  its  gigaf.A.  system  the 
old  Brockville  and  Ottawa  Railway.  Already 
tho  Brockville,  Westport  and  Sault  St.  Marie 
Railway  has  been  completed  to  Westport,  and 
in  addition  to  making  a  large  section  of  coun- 
try tributary  to  Brockville,  when  completed 
to  the  **Soo,"  and  connecting  therewith  the 
American  railways,  this  will  become  one  or 
the  great  trunk  lines,  connecting  the  Atlantic 


193 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


seaboard  with  the  Great  West.  Resides,  there 
is  now  projected  an  electric  railway  to  run 
between  Brockville  and  Ottawa,  which  will 
open  the  Rideau  country,  and  be  of  great 
benefit  to  that  entire  section.  By  steam-ferry 
to  Morristown,  connection  is  had  with  the 
Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg  Railway, 
which  forms  a  part  of  the  great  Central  sys- 
tem of  New  York  ;  the  largest  on  the  Ameri- 
can continent  —  and  now  it  is  proposed  to 
build  a  bridge  across  the  St.  Lawrence  at*this 
point,  to  connect  the  Canadian  and  American 
systems,  the  preliminary  steps  to  which  have 
already  been  taken,  charters  secured  in  both 
countries,  and  it  is  confidently  expected  that 
active  steps  in  the  way  of  construction  will  be 
taken  within  a  few  months  at  the  farthest. 

During  the  season  of  navigation,  the  steamer 
service  is  excellent.  The  steamers  of  the 
Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company 
call  daily  on  their  trips  between  Toronto  and 
Montreal  and  various  American  ports  among 
the  Thousand  Islands.  Besides  these,  the 
Ocean,  Alexandria,  Cuba,  etc.,  do  a  large 
freight  and  passenger  business,  so  that  water 
facilities  are  of  the  best  quality,  and  readily 
available  at  the  minimum  of  delay.  The 
steamer  service  to  the  Thousand  Islands  has 
of  late  years  been  supplied  by  the  John  Hag- 
gart,  a  commodious  vessel,  well  adapted  to  the 
purpose. 

As  a  summer  resort,  Brockville  offers  ex- 
ceptional advantages.  The  great  American 
resorts  among  the  islands  are  within  easy 
reach,  being  only  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
miles  away,  and  easily  reached  by  any  one  of 
the  daily  line  of  steamers  which  ply  during 
the  watering  season.  Besides  these,  the  Em- 
pire State,  America  and  St.  Lawrence,  all 
splendid  steamers,  make  almost  daily  excur- 
sions. These  steamers  belong  to  the  Thou- 
sand Island  Steamboat  Company  line,  a  com- 
pany that  is  sparing  no  pains  nor  expense  to 
furnish  a  river  service  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
which  cannot  be  excelled.  During  the  past 
decade  some  elegant  resorts  have  sprung 
up  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river;  among 
which  are  Fernbank,  Hill  Crest,  and  Union 
Park,  while  between   these   nearly   every  fa- 


vored spot  is  taken  up,  and  every  year  sees 
new  and  beautiful  summer  homes  spring  into 
view.  Residents  of  New  York,  Ottawa  and 
Montreal,  recognizing  the  beauties  of  these 
locations,  have  already  erected  fine  summer 
residences,  or  are  prepared  to  do  so  in  the 
near  future. 

Between  Brockville  and  Union  Park,  seven 
miles  above,  a  steamer  makes  four  round  trips 
daily,  so  that  business  men  can  attend  to  their 
duties  during  the  day,  returning  to  their  cot- 
tage homes  in  the  evening.  In  addition  to  its 
river  attractions,  Brockville  has  some  beauti- 
ful drives,  prominent  among  which,  for  beauty 
and  picturesqueness,  is  the  drive  to  Fernbank 
Park  and  the  village  of  Lynn,  five  miles  away. 
The  best  known  and  patronized,  however,  is 
that  to  Prescott,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles 
along  the  bank  of  the  river.  Brockville  is 
supplied  with  water  through  the  celebrated 
"  Holly  "  system,  and  it  has  an  excellent  sys- 
tem of  sewerage,  so  that  as  a  place  of  excel- 
lent sanitation  it  is  unexcelled.  The  streets 
are  well  lighted  with  both  gas  and  electricity, 
or  rather  a  combination  of  the  two.  They 
intersect  at  right  angles,  and  for  the  most  part 
are  beautifully  shaded,  so  that  one  might  aptly 
name  Brockville  the  "  Forest  City,"  and  not 
go  far  astray. 

In  religious  and  educational  matters,  Brock- 
ville stands  deservedly  high.  Some  of  the 
church  edifices  are  magnificent  and  costly  tri- 
umphs of  architectural  skill.  There  are  three 
congregations  of  the  Church  of  England,  two 
Presbyterian,  two  Methodist,  one  Baptist,  and 
one  Roman  Catholic,  besides  some  smaller 
sects.  Their  pastors  are  men  of  marked 
ability.  The  schools  of  Brockville  are  of  a 
high  order.  The  public  schools  consist  of 
a  central  High  school,  known  as  the  Victoria 
School,  and  four  Ward  Schools.  The  Separate 
School  is  a  large  and  commodious  structure, 
provided  with  all  the  modern  appliances.  The 
Convent  de  Notre  Dame  is  a  superior  ladies' 
school.  There  is  also  an  excellent  Kin- 
dergarten in  successful  operation,  together 
with  some  first-class  private  schools.  The 
Collegiate  Institute  is  one  of  the  best  higher 
educational  institutions  in  the  Province.     Stu- 


BROCK  I  iLLh  /.\SANE  AS  i  L  UM. 


«93 


^fear  sees 
ring  into 
awa  and 
of  these 
summer 
so  in  the 

■rk,  seven 
unci  trips 
d  to  their 
their  coi- 
tion to  its 
16  beauti- 
"or  beauty 
Fernbank 
lies  away. 
Dwever,  is 
;lve  miles 
ickville  is 
:elebrated 
ellent  sys- 
of  excel- 
he  streets 
ilectricity, 
0.     They 
most  part 
light  aptly 
and  not 

rs,  Brock- 
ne    of  the 
costly  tri- 
are  three 
and,  two 
iptist,  and 
smaller 
marked 
are  of  a 
consist  of 
e  Victoria 
e  Separate 
structure, 
ices.  The 
or  ladies' 
ent    Kin- 
together 
Is.     The 
;st  higher 
ice.     Stu- 


dents aie  here  prepared  for  matriculation  in 
liic  various  colleges,  and  for  cntcriiij;  upon 
,iny  of  llic  professions.  Hrockville  has  alsf»  a 
I'.iisiness  College  eipial  to  any  in  the  coimiry 
in  its  meiiiods  and  m  the  thoroughness  ot  its 
work.  Last,  but  by  no  means  least  among  ilie 
educational  institutions  of  tlie  town,  is  the 
An  School.  This  has  attained  a  provincial 
reputation  from  the  excellence  of  the  work 
exhibited  by  its  pupils  in  com|jetilion  witii 
other  Art  schools  in  Ontario.  The  Mechanics' 
I'lStitute,  with  its  library  of  many  thousand 
volumes,  its  ample  and  well-su|)plied  reading- 
room,  filled  with  all  the  current  reailing  matter 
of  the  day,  is  surely  an  educator  whose  influ- 
ence upon  the  masses  can  hardly  be  over- 
estimated. In  this  respect,  lirockville  is  but 
■mother  demonstration  of  the  well-known 
fact  that,  given  a  good,  well-selected  library, 
and  a  reading-room  abundantly  supplied  with 
the  literature  of  the  day,  a  community  will 
stand  infinitely  higher,  morally  and  intel- 
lectually, than  will  one  deprived  of  those 
privileges.  J3rockville  has  two  excellent 
newspapers,  the  Times  and  Recorder,  both  of 
which  are  live  sheets  and  fully  up  to  date,  not 
only  as  regards  the  news  in  general,  but  also 
uilly  alive  to  the  interests  of  their  town. 
There  are  many  enterprising  manufacturing 
firms,  but  lack  of  space  prevents  the  insertion 
of  a  list. 

For  the  care  of  the  sick  and  afflicted,  Brock- 
ville  has  two  excellent  hospitals,  the  Brockville 
General  Hospital  and  the  St.  Vincent  de  Paul 
Hospital,  both  being  fully  equipped  and  well 
managed.  The  crowning  institution,  however, 
is  the  newly  erected 

Brockville  Insane  Asylum. 

This  is  an  elegant  structure,  standing  on  a 
commanding  site  on  what  was  known  as  the 
Pickens  Point  property,  at  the  left  of  the  Pres- 
cott  road.  From  it,  the  view  across  and  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  is  magnificent.  The  premises 
contain  207  acres.  The  main  building  stands 
about  350  yards  north  of  the  Prescott  road. 
It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  being  three 
stories  high  in  the  center  and  two  stories  in 
the  wings,  having  a  frontage  of  400  feet.    The 


front  of  the  central  i)art  is  surmounted  by  a 
tower  128  feet  in  luiglit.  The  central  part  of 
the  main  building  pnijects  to  the  rear  200  feet. 
There  are  ample  basements,  storage  rooms, 
coal  vaults,  laundries,  sewing  rooms,  offices, 
dining  r(<  )iiis,  kitchens,  patients"  rooms,  bath 
rooms. lii  >;"  rooms,with  ample  .iicommodations 
m  the  ma:;i  building  for  240  patients.  In 
short,  the  building  is  ])rovidiil  with  every  ap- 
jjliance  thai  science,  skill  and  experience  could 
suggest  as  being  beneficial  in  an  institution  of 
the  kind.  Six  cottages,  each  forty  by  sixty 
feet,  two  stories  high,  with  all  the  appliances 
to  accommodate  sixty  ])atients  each,  are  also  a 
part  of  this  institution.  Although  interesting, 
space  forbids  an  extended  description  of  this 
fine  public  institution,  so  likely  to  prove  one 
of  the  attractions  of  Brockville. 

The  Canadian  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
river,  it  will  be  noticed,  is,  in  the  main,  bluff 
and  rocky,  and  in  many  places  exceedingly 
preci|)itous,  with  here  and  there  occasional 
breaks,  where  the  land  slopes  gently  to  the 
water's  edge.  !  is  in  one  of  these  breaks  that 
Brockville  is  situated,  with  high  bluffs  above 
and  below  and  high  ground  to  the  rear.  From 
the  river  the  place  presents  a  very  fine  a]j- 
pearance.  The  bluff  at  the  east  end  of  the 
town  rises  to  a  height  of  fully  fifty  feet,  and  is 
commonly  known  as  "  High  Rocks,"  which, 
with  its  overhanging  shelves,  clinging  vines 
and  wild  honeysuckles  draped  over  the  en- 
trances many  small  caves,  presents  a  charm- 
ing bit  of  scenery  to  the  eye  of  the  river  tour- 
ist, but  which  is  scarcely  appreciated  by  the 
citizens  themselves.  'This  beautiful  spot  is  the 
home  of  a  legend  or  tale  which  may  be  too 
true  in  fact,  to  relegate  to  the  regions  of 
romance  or  legend.  Be  that  as  it  may,  it  is 
here  "set  down,"   the  reader  to  be  the  judge. 

Th"'.  Lkgend  of  the  Cliff. 

At  a  point  where  the  face  of  the  cliff  is 
comparatively  smooth,  may  be  seen  traces  of 
a  painting  which  is  now  nearly  obliterated, 
but  which,  until  within  a  few  years  past,  was 
visited  every  spring  by  a  band  of  Indians, 
who,  with  weired  ceremonies  and  incantations, 
brightened  the  picture  with  fresh  paint  and 


194 


A   SOUVENIR   OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


••<» 


departed.  The  picture  war,  a  rough  repre- 
sentation  of  a  canoe,  propelled  by  several 
Indians,  out  of  which  two  white  men  were 
falling.  The  legend  relates  that  in  the  early 
days  of  the  French  occupation  of  Can.Ja  by 
Count  Frontenac,  there  was  a  continual 
struggle  between  the  New  France  and  the 
New  England,  as  to  which  should  secure  the 
alliance  of  the  Indian  tribes;  and  although 
nominally  France  and  England  were  at  peace, 
there  is  no  doubt  that  English  officers  sta- 
tioned in  the  colonies,  did  all  in  their  power 
to  forward  this  much-to-be-desired  consumma- 
tion. The  French  had  succeeded  in  securing 
the  alliance  of  the  Algonejuins  and  Hurons, 
but  the  great  confederacy  of  the  Iroquois  held 
aloof  from  any  entangling  alliances,  the  more, 
it  is  presumed,  because  they  were  deadly  foes 
to  both  Hurons  and  Algonquins,  the  former 
of  which  were  settled  around  lakes  Huron 
and  Superior,  while  the  Algonquins  were  the 
tribes  of  the  cast.  The  Hurons,  to  reach  the 
great  fur  markets  of  Montreal  and  Quebec, 
were  obliged  to  pass  through  the  country  of 
the  Iroijuois,  which  that  confederacy  promptly 
opposed,  and  so  great  was  the  terror  inr:i;red 
by  the  Iroquois,  that  Count  Frontenac,  then 
Governor  of  the  New  France,  decided  to  pro- 
tect his  allies,  and  administer  such  a  rebuke 
to  their  foes  that  they  would  long  remember 
it.  The  Count's  expedition,  however,  was  not 
an  unqualified  success;  and  though  he  brought 
off  many  prisoners,  he  rt^urned  with  his  army 
badly  crippled,  a  fact  of  which  the  Iroquois 
were  well  aware. 

At  all  events,  among  the  prisoners  cap- 
tured by  the  French  were  a  couple  of  English 
officers,  who  belonged,  so  hietory  informs  us, 
to  the  garrison  at  Oswego;  for  up  to  th's 
point,  dear  reader,  our  relation  is  out  a  verita- 
ble historical  fact,  or  facts,  if  yon  so  choose. 
These  officers  were  placed  in  oare  of  a  party  of 
Indians,  who  were  to  take  them  to  Montreal. 


Embarking  in  a  canoe,  they  proceeded  down 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and,  when  at  a  point  just 
above  Brockville,  they  were  struck  by  a  terri- 
ble storm,  and  being  heavily  loaded  they  tossed 
the  British  officers  overboard,  not  only  to 
lighten  the  canoe,  but  to  appease  the  storm- 
god  by  a  human  sacrifice.  But  the  storm-god 
was  not  appeased.  The  gale  increased  in 
intensity,  and  the  storm  king  howled  and 
shrieked  in  the  ears  of  the  now  dismayed  In- 
dians, who  began  to  regard  their  actions  in 
throwing  the  two  men  overboard  as  cowardly. 
They  felt  that  the  Great  Spirit  would  punish 
tnem  for  the  act,  and  so  the  wail  of  their  death 
songs,  mingled  with  the  shrieks  of  the  tem- 
pest, and  when  opposite  the  High  Rocks  the 
canoe  went  down  with  all  its  hum^n  freight^ 
among  whom  was  a  distinguished  chief.  The 
judgment  was  well  deserved.  Of  course,  those 
savages  did  not  intend  to  release  their  pris- 
oners, but  Just  to  torture  them  at  the  stake. 
Had  they  not  been  so  cowardly  as  to  throw 
them  overboard  to  drown,  how  much  pleasure 
they  might  have  afforded  the  whole  tribe,  and 
what  horrible  tortures,  so  dear  to  the  savage 
heart,  they  might  have  subjected  them  to. 
But  they  drowned  their  prisoners  instead,  and 
were  themselves  drowned.  Served  thera  right. 
For  more  than  a  hundred  years  a  band  of 
Indians  has  repainted  the  picture  each  spring, 
at  the  same  time  performing  incantations  to 
the  Great  Spirit,  whose  anger,  because  they 
drowned  the  officers  instead  of  burning  them 
nt  the  slake,  must  be  appeased.  .\s  it  has 
now  been  several  years  since  the  picture  has 
been  renewed,  let  us  hope  that  the  Indian 
deity  is  satisfied. 

For  muoh  information  concerning  Brock- 
ville, the  writer  is  indebted  to  Mr.  R.  Laiu- 
LAW,  of  the  Brockville  Times,  and  to  Mr. 
Geo.  F.  Graham,  of  the  Recorder,  genial  gen- 
tlemen both,  and  fully  alive  to  the  interests  of 
their  town. 


"^"^ 


DHHa 


77/ A"  O/UGJ.W  OF  /'A'/.VY/A'G  ON  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE.      1 95 


::eeded  down 
a  {)oint  just 
:k  by  a  terri- 
d  they  tossed 
not   only   to 
;e  the  storm- 
he  storm-god 
increased  in 
howled    and 
dismayed  In- 
:ir  actions  in 
[  as  cowardly, 
tvould  punish 
of  their  death 
i  of  the   ten> 
;h  Rocks  the 
iniyn  freight,, 
1  chief.     The 
course,  those 
se  their  pris- 
at  the  stake. 
'  as  to   throw 
nuch  pleasure 
lole  tribe,  and 
to  the  savage 
ted   them    to. 
s  instead,  and 
d  them  right, 
rs  a  band  of 
J  each  spring, 
cantations  to 
because  they 
burning  them 
I.     .\s  it  has 
e  picture  has 
X  the  Indian 

rning  Brock- 
Vlr.  R.  Laio- 
and  to  Mr. 
:r,  genial  gen- 
ie interests  of 


THE  SPORTSMAN'S  SONG. 


BY    MArRKT.    TIlOMrSllN. 


Ho  !  for  the  marshes,  green   vith  Spiing, 

Where  the  bitterns  croak  and  the  plovers  pipe, 
Where  the  gaunt  old  heron  spreads  his  wing 

Above  the  haunt  of  the  rail  and  snipe; 
For  my  gun  is  clean  and  my  rod's  in  trim, 

And  the  old,  wild  longing  is  roused  in  me; 
Ho  !  for  the  bass  pools  cool  and  dim — 

Ho  !  for  the  swales  of  the  Kankakee! 

Is  there  other  joy  like  the  joy  of  man 

Free  for  a  seison  with  rod  and  gun, 
With  the  sun  to  tan  and  the  winds  to  fan, 

And  the  waters  to  lull,  and  never  a  one 
Of  the  cares  of  life  to  follow  him. 

Or  to  shadow  his  mind  while  he  wanders  free? 
Ho!  for  the  currents  slow  and  dim! 

Ho!  for  the  fens  of  the  Kankakee! 


A  hut  by  the  river,  a  light  canoe, 

My  rod  and  my  gun,  and  a  sennight  fair — 

A  wind  from  the  south  and  the  wild  fowl  due- 
Be  mine!    All's  well!     Comes  never  a  care! 

A  strain  of  the  savage  fires  my  blood. 
And  the  zest  of  freedom  is  keen  in  me; 

Ho!  for  the  marsh  and  the  lilied  flood! 
Ho!  for  the  tarns  of  the  Kankakee! 

Give  me  to  stand  where  the  swift  currents  rush, 

With  my  rod  all  astrain  and  a  bass  coming  in, 
Or  give  me  the  marsh,  with  the  brown  snipe  aflush. 

And  my  gvn's  sudden  flashes  and  resonant  din; 
For  I'm  tired  of  the  desk  and  tired  of  the  town, 

And  I  long  to  be  out,  and  I  long  to  be  free. 
Ho!  for  the  marsh  with  the  birds  whirling  down! 

Ho!  for  the  pools  of  the  Kankakee! 


THE   ORIGIN   OF   PRINTING   ON   THE  SHORES  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

BY   J.    L.    HUBERT  NEILSON,    M.   I).,  R.  C.    A.,  IlEI'UTY   SURf.EOr. -GENERAL. 


IN  the  year  1749  a  learned  Swede,  Peter 
Kalm,  professor  in  a  Swedish  University, 
a  disciple  of  the  great  Linnaeus,  visited  the 
United  States  and  Canada.  He  informs  us, 
in  the  interesting  volumes  of  travel  which  he 
subsequently  published,  that  there  was  then 
no  printing  press  in  Canada,  He  was  told, 
though,  that  at  one  time  there  had  been  one. 
This  bi'  of  information  appears,  however,  to 
have  been  not  in  accord  with  fact.  Kalm 
adds:  "All  books  are  brought  from  France, 
and  all  the  orders  made  in  the  country  are 
written,  which  extends  even  to  itie  paper  cur- 
rency. They  pretend  that  the  press  is  not  yet 
introduced  here,  lent  it  should  be  the  means 
of  propagating  libels  against  the  government 
and  religion.     But  the  true  reason  seems  to 


be  in  the  poorness  of  the  country,  as  no 
printer  could  put  off  a  sufficient  number  of 
books  f'T  his  subsistence;  and  another  reason 
may  1  e  that  France  may  have  the  profit  aris- 
ing trom  the  exportadon  of  books  hither." 

Whatever  the  cause  may  have  been,  and  all 
seems  to  indicate  that  reasons  of  state  policy 
were  the  troe  cause,  a  public  press  was  an 
absolutely  unknown  quantity  in  Canada  from 
the  foundation  of  Quebec,  in  1609,  until  after 
the  conquest  by  the  British  arms  and  final 
ce'.oion  in  1763.  It  had  been  very  different 
over  the  border  in  the  New  England  provin- 
ces. Within  twenty  years  of  the  landing  of 
the  Pilgrim  Fathers  a  press  had  been  estab- 
lished at  Cambridge  in  1638,  by  Steven  Daye. 
At  first,  and  for  many  years,  small  works  of  a 


196 


A   SOUVENIR  or   THE   ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


Godly  character  were  its  only  output  Gradu- 
ally matters  of  a  more  worldly  nature  were 
served  by  it.  But  it  was  not  until  1704  that 
such  a  secular  object  as  a  newspaper  made  its 
appearance,  and  met  with  sufficient  public 
support  and  appreciation.  It  is  believed  that 
as  early  as  1545  a  printing  press  was  operated 
in  the  city  of  Mexico. 

Well,  in  the  year  1763  —  it  being  made 
known  to  the  world  that  Canada  was  to  be 
irrevocably  attached  to  the  British  Crown  — 
it  occurred  to  one  William  Brown,  a  young 
printer  in  Philadelphia,  that  Canada  might 
be  a  new  field  worth  trying.  Canada  was 
still  under  military  rule.  After  a  short  cor- 
respondence with  the  then  Governor  General, 
James  Murray,  for  the  double  purpose  of 
making  surj  that  his  scheme  would  not  only 
be  permitted  but  favored  by  the  authorities, 
he  did  not  hesitate  to  put  his  small  savings 
into  the  venture. 

William  Brown,  like  so  many  other  leaders 
among  men,  pioneers  and  benefactors  of  their 
race,  was  a  native  of  Scotland.  He  was  born 
in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  province  of  Galloway, 
in  1737.  His  father,  John  Brown,  was  laird 
of  Nunton,  in  the  parish  of  Twynholm,  and  of 
Langlands,  in  Borgue.  William,  being  a 
younger  son,  wns  sent  to  paternal  relatives  in 
Virginia,  to  make  his  fortune  as  best  he  could. 
In  1 85 1-2-3  we  find  him  studying  the  classics 
and  mathematics  at  William  and  Mary  Col- 
lege, in  Williamsburgh.  The  year  following 
he  had  entered  a  counting  house  as  clerk,  but 
soon  there  came  the  seven-years'  war;  the  de- 
feat of  Braddock  at  Monong.ihcla  was  fol- 
lowed by  commercial  dislocation  and  a  finan- 
cial crash  which  brought  an  end  to  Brown's 
incipient  career  as  a  bank  clerk. 

Unemployed,  stranded,  and  with  but  slen- 
der means  in  hand,  young  Brown  bethought 
himself  of  a  trade,  which  possessed  greater 
elements  of  stability  than  banking  in  those 
tempestuous  times.  The  printing  business, 
moreover,  seemed  to  him  congenial.  He  ac- 
cordingly directed  his  steps  towards  Philadel- 
phia, with  a  view  of  there  acquiring  the  art  of 
printing.  He  first  served  as  apprentice  in  the 
celebrated  establishment  of  William  Bradford, 


which  then  existed  at  the  corner  of  Black 
Horse  alley.  It  is  traditional,  however,  that 
he  finished  his  time  with  Franklin  &  Hail, 
then  publishers  of  the  Pennsylvania  Gazette. 

In  1 758  he  had  transferred  his  services  to 
William  Dunlap,  a  printer  who  was  also  largelv 
interested  in  bookselling.  Dunlap  had  mar- 
ried a  relative  of  Benjamin  Franklin's  wife, 
and  through  this  family  connection  had  re- 
cently been  appointed  postmaster  01  Philadcl- 
])hia.  In  1760  he  was  for  a  short  time  partner 
lo  Jam«_s  Rivington  in  the  book-selling  busi- 
ness in  New  York.  Their  book  store  was  at 
the  lower  end  of  Wall  street.  P.  'wn  soon  with- 
drew, returned  to  Philadeiphia,  and  together 
with  a  nephew,  John  Dunlap,  bee  amc-  "  si- 
ness  managers  of  the  elder  Dunlap  .;on- 
cern.  In  that  capacity  we  find  him  next 
residing  for  two  years  in  Bridgetown,  Bar- 
badoes,  winding  up  a  bookselling  and  print- 
ing enterprise  which  Dunlap  had  there.  It 
was  on  his  return  from  Parbadoes,  in  1763, 
that  he  formed  the  project  of  trying  his  for- 
tune in  Canada.  He  selected  as  partner  one 
Thomas  Gilmore,  a  native  of  the  north  of 
Ireland,  a  relative  of  Dunlap 's,  who  generousiy 
bolst-ired  up  the  venture  of  his  two  young 
friends  to  the  extent  of  ^^450. 

On  the  6th  of  August  he  left  Philadelphia 
for  Boston.  He  informs  us,  in  his  "  diary," 
that  he  met  with  disappointment  in  not  find- 
ing there  a  vessel  bound  for  Quebec.  He 
had  no  choice  left  but  to  purchase  a  horse 
and  make  his  way  as  best  he  could  towards 
Quebec,  via  .Mbany,  Lake  Champlain.  Mon- 
treal and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Quebec. 
Brown's  diary  is  re|)lete  with  details  of  ili's 
journey,  now  of  great  interest,  but  space  pro- 
hibits quotations.  While  Brown  was  proceed- 
ing overland,  Gilmore  was  sent  to  London  to 
purchase  the  press,  type  and  paper  for  the 
new  Quebec  printing  ofi'^ce,  the  whole  to  be 
brought  out  by  the  first  vessel  the  following 
spring. 

Brown,  after  adventures  which  would  be 
well  worth  repeating,  finally  reached  Quebec 
on  the  30th  of  September,  1763.  'I"he  ensu- 
ing autumn  and  winter  months  he  devoted  in 
perfecting  himself  in  the  knowledge  of  Frencii. 


er  of    Black 
owever,  that 
lin  &   Hall, 
nia  Gazette. 
I  services  to 
i  also  largely 
ip  had  niar- 
.nklin's  wife, 
tion  had  re- 
el Philadel- 
time  partner 
selling  busi- 
store  was  at 
/n  soon  with- 
ind  together 
lecamc   '    si- 
iinlap      .;on- 
d    him    next 
jetown,   Bar- 
g  and  print- 
d  there.     It 
Ices,  in  1763, 
■ying  his  for- 
i  partner  one 
'he  north    of 
o  generously 
5  two  young 

Philadelphia 
lis   "  diary," 
in  not  find- 
Quebec.     He 
lase   a   horse 
uld   towards 
plain.  Mon- 
e  to  Quebec, 
tails  of   this 
t  space  pro- 
was  proceed- 
o  London  to 
aper  for  the 
whole  to  be 
he  following 

h  would  be 
hed  Quebec 
'I'he  ensu- 
e  devoted  to 
je  of  Frenci., 


THE  ORIGIN  OF  PRINTING  ON  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  ST.  LA  VVRENCE.      igj 


for  subscribers,  distributing  his 
prospectus,  and  making  things  ready  for  the 
installation  of  the  press.  He  had  secured  a 
small  house  "in  Parlour  street,  in  the  Upper 
Town,  a  little  above  the  Bishop's  Palace." 
Gilmore  arrived  early  in  June,  with  a  brand- 
new  hand  press  and  excellent  type,  which  he 
had  secured  from  Kenrick  Peck,  of  London. 
He  was  also  provided  with  a  sufficient  supply 
of  paper,  ink  and  other  necessaries.  On  the 
2ist  of  June,  1764,  the  first  number  of  the 
Quebec  Gazette  was  offered  to  the  public. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  to  these  citizens  of 
old  Philadelphia  is  due  the  honor  and  glory 
of  having  planted  the  first  press  in  its  sister 
colony  on  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  in 
the  now  vast  and  prosperous  Dominion  of 
Canada.  A  word  of  the  worthy  William  Dun- 
lap,  Franklin's  relative,  who  was  in  a  way  the 
sponsor  and  financial  backer  of  Brown  and 
Gilmore's  venture,  may  not  be  out  of  place. 
By  trade  he  had  been  a  job  printer,  bookseller 
and  paper  manufacturer,  and,  in  1758,  suc- 
cessor to  William  F'ranklin  as  postmaster  of 
Philadelphia.  Dunlap  had  also  a  printing 
and  bookselling  establishment  in  Barbadoes. 
He  was  also  interested  in  the  Barbadoes  Mer- 
cury. His  agent  there  was  George  Esmond, 
who  so  neglec.ed  his  patron's  interest  that,  in 
1765,  Dunlap  had  to  go  there  himself,  and 
there  he  spent  two  years  in  vain  attempts  to 
obtain  a  settlement  of  his  affairs.  While  in 
Bridgetown,  although  advanced  in  years,  he 
decided  to  devote  himself  to  the  ministry  of 
the  Church  of  England,  commenced  his  theo- 
logical studies,  and,  in  1767,  went  to  London 
to  be  ordained.  He  then  returned  to  Phila- 
delphia, his  wife  having,  meanwhile,  become 
insane.  John  Dunlap,  his  nephsw,  took  charge 
of  the  interests  which  he  still  retained  in  the 
Philadelphia  printing  and  bookselling  estab- 
lishment. This  firm  continued  to  furnish  sup- 
plies of  printing  paper,  stationery,  etc.,  to 
Brown  and  Gilmore  in  Quebec  until  the  out- 
break rf  the  Revolutionary  war.  These  goods 
were  usually  forwarded  to  them  by  sailing 
vessels  via  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
But  they  looked  f  ^r  more  than  inert  supplies 
from  Philadelphia.     I  quote  from  a  long  half- 


business,  half-affectionate  letter  written  by 
Brown  to  the  Rev.  William  Dunlap,  on  April 
29,  1768: 

"*  *  *  ILiving  been  long  embarrassed  with  Cana- 
dian Boys.is  menial  servants  about  the  Printing  Office, 
who  will  not  engage  for  any  considerable  time  and 
as  soon  as  they  find  themselves  useful  augment  their 
wages  and  become  intolerably  insolent,  we  are  at  List 
come  10  a  Resolution  of  trying  to  get  a  Negro  Boy, 
wherefore  we  beg  you  will  endeavour  to  purchase 
one  for  us,  between  15  and  20  years  of  age  fit  to  put  to 
Press,  who  has  had  the  Small  Pox,  is  country  born 
and  can  be  recommended  for  his  Honesty;  we  would 
not  begrudge  a  pretty  good  Price  for  such  a  likely 
Negro:  or  if  you  should  be  inclined  to  part  with  your 
Boy  Priamus  we  would  be  glad  to  have  him  and 
would  be  glad  to  give  what  would  be  judged  a 
reasonable  price  for  him.  We  pray  ycu  may  try  and 
procure  us  one  so  that  he  may  reach  us  here  in  the 
fall;  and  as  soon  as  you  shall  be  certain  of  him  or 
determined  to  part  with  your  own  we  beg  you  may 
loose  no  Time  in  acquainting  us  of  the  Price,  which 
we  will  immediately  remit  to  you  on  a  Hill  on  York 
(sic)  as  we  shall  keep  the  cash  ready  till  we  hear 
from  you.  Should  it  be  too  late  for  an  opportunity 
from  Philadulpliia  there  has  always  been  vessels 
from  York  in  .\u^'ust  and  Sepbr,  and  we  doubt  not 
that  there  will  be  this  Year.  *  ♦  *"  In  a  P.  S  he 
adds:  "  If  you  are  so  lucky  as  to  get  us  a  Negro, 
before  you  embark  him  we  beg  he  may  be  insured." 

William  Dunlap  evidently  took  the  most 
kindly,  even  fatherly,  interest  in  his  two  pro- 
teges in  Quebec,  judging  from  the  many  letters 
he  wrote  them,  several  of  which  are  in  my 
possession.  A  son  named  Tomy  appears  to 
have  been  at  this  period  with  the  printers  in 
Quebec,  for  he  more  than  once  refers  to  him. 
He  always  subscribed  himself,  "  I  am,  dear 
gentlemen.  Your  affectionate  W.  Dunlap." 
His  confidence  in  them  was  not  misplaced, 
for  that  very  year  they  repaid  him  in  full  his 
advance  of  ^450,  with  interest  at  six  per  cent. 
There  being  none  or  few  regular  banks  in 
existence  in  the  North  American  provinces, 
remitting  money  was  both  a  difficult  and  costly 
matter.  Opportunities  of  purchasing  a  bill 
of  exchange  on  a  good,  solvent  firm  or  indi- 
vidual were  few  and  far  between.  About  this 
time,  1768,  W.  Dunlap  severed  his  connection 
with  business  to  become  rector  of  the  parish 
of  Stratton  in  King  and  Queen's  county,  Vir- 
ginia, where,  I  presume,  he  ended  his  varied 
earthly  career. 


198 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


,.;,» 


Brown  &  Gilmore  had  calculated  on  a 
subscription  list  of  at  least  150;  when  the  first 
number  appeared,  only  no  had  given  in  their 
names.  General  Murray  subscribed  for  ten 
copies  and  two  other  officials  five  each. 
Among  these  no  names  not  more  than  a 
dozen  French  names  can  be  found,  most  of 
these  were  priests.  The  paper  was  printed  on 
a  folio  sheet,  with  four  double-column  pages, 
one  column  being  English,  the  opposite  one  a 
translation  into  French.  A  cut  of  the  Royal 
Arms  headed  the  paper,  to  one  side  of  which 
was  the  title,  "  The  Quebec  Gazette,"  while  on 
the  other  was  the  French  title,  "  I.a  Gazette  de 
Quebec."  At  the  foot  of  thi;  fou;th  page  was 
the  colophone,  "Quebec,  printed  by  Brown  & 
Gilmore,  at  the  printinr;  offirc;  in  Parlour 
street,  in  the  Upper  Tow.n,  a  little  above  the 
Bishop's  palace,  where  subscriptions  for  this 
paper  are  taken  in;  advertisements  of  a  mode- 
rate length  (in  one  language)  inserted  for  five 
shillings  Halifax,  the  first  week  and  one  shil- 
ling each  week  after;  if  in  both  languages 
seven  shillings  and  six  pence  Halifax,  the 
first  week  and  half  a  dollar  each  week  after ; 
and  all  kinds  of  printing  done  in  the  neatest 
manner,  with  care  and  expedition."  It  ap- 
peared once  a  week,  on  Thursdays. 

The  two  first  pages  contained  foreign  Euro- 
pean news,  seldom  less  than  six  weeks  or  two 
months  old;  occasional  items  relating  to  the 
neighboring  Provinces  and  extracts  from  their 
newspapers  ;  then  followed  scanty  allusions 
to  matters  of  local  interest ;  the  third  and 
fourth  pages  were  filled  with  official  proc- 
lamations, government  and  private  advertise- 
ments, many  of  which  convey  curious  and 
important  information.  Brown  appears  to 
have  been  the  business  head  —  editor  and 
manager  —  of  the  concern;  he  and  Gilmore 
had  evidently  been  trained  at  an  excellent 
school;  witness  the  correctness  and  neatness 
of  their  work.  Brown  was  the  essence  of 
regularity  and  precision  in  all  his  work;  his 
diary,  his  letters,  his  office  books,  dating  from 
his  arrival  in  Canada  until  his  death,  detailing 
every  business  transactions  of  the  printing 
office  and  every  item  of  his  own  personal  ex- 
penses from  1763  to   1789,  are  written  most 


carefully  in  rounded  hand;  they  are  all  pre- 
served among  the  collections  of  the  writer  of 
this  sketch. 

Broadsides,  pamphlets  and  small  volumes 
soon  followed  the  appearance  of  the  "  Quebec 
Gazette ;  "  the  first  was  the  "  Presentment  " 
of  the  first  Canadian  grand  jury,  a  small 
quarto  of  forty-two  pages,  an  important  and 
unique  document;  but  one  copy  is  known  to 
exist,  and  that  is  to  be  found  in  the  writer's 
collection.  The  second  volume  was  "  Le  Cate- 
chisme  du  Diocese  de  Sens  in  1765;"  a  unique 
copy  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Honorable 
Judge  Baby  of  Montreal. 

A  curious  and  now  excessively  rare  book, 
printed  by  Brown  &  Gilmore  in  1767,  is  the 
"  Nehiro-Irinai,"  a  small  8vo.  of  96  pages, 
printed  with  great  neatness  and  fine  type,  but 
entirely  in  the  Montagnais  language.  It  is  a 
prayer  book,  catechism,  etc.,  composed  for 
the  Indians  of  the  Saguenay  Valley  by  their 
celebrated  and  saintly  missionary.  Father  La 
Brosse,  a  Jesuit,  whose  life-work  and  death 
are  the  subject  of  more  than  one  legend,  re- 
peated with  reverence  to  this  day  among  the 
Indians  and  peasants  of  the  lower  St.  Law- 
rence. Miss  Machar  of  Kingston  and  Gan- 
anoque,  familiar  to  many  readers  under  the 
"  nom  de  plume  "  Fidelis,  has  recently  rend- 
ered one  of  these  La  Brosse  legends  in  charm- 
ing verse.  J.  C  Pilling  in  his  "  Bibliography 
of  the  Algonquian  Languages,"  published  by 
the  Smithsonian  Institution  in  1891,  gives  a 
good  description  of  Father  La  Brosse 's  writ- 
ings and  works.  The  labor  of  composing  and 
revising  the  proofs  of  such  a  book  must  have 
taxed  the  patience  and  time  of  the  printer  to 
their  very  utmost,  yet  he  charged  but  £^$  for 
2,000  copies  of  6  sheets,  8vo. 

Enough  of  the  early  issues  of  the  Quebec 
press  —  more  would  cease  to  interest  the  gen- 
eral reader.  Brown  &  Gilmore  remained  in 
partnership  for  nearly  ten  years  when,  in  1773, 
Thomas  Gilmore  died.  During  the  two  or 
three  years  preceding  his  death  he  had  been 
unable  to  withstand  the  temptations  attending 
prosperity,  he  had  fallen  into  loose  habits,  neg- 
lected his  work,  overdrawn  his  account  —  in 
fact,  had  become  a  thorn  in   Brown's  side. 


THE  ORIGIN  OF   -"RINTING  ON  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE.     1 99 


re  all  pre- 
le  writer  of 

ill  volumes 
e  "  Quebec 
isentment " 
•y,  a  small 
)ortant  and 
3  known  to 
the  writer's 
,s  "  Le  Cate- 
;;"  a  unique 
Honorable 

rare  book, 
1767,  is  the 
f  96  pages, 
ne  type,  but 
ge.     It  is  a 
imposed   for 
(ley  by  their 
^r,  Father  La 
k  and  death 
e  legend,  re- 
^  among  the 
er  St.  Law- 
and  Gan- 
under  the 
cently  rend- 
ds  in  charm- 
Bibliography 
published  by 
891,  gives  a 
Jrosse's  writ- 
mposing  and 
must  have 
le  printer  to 
but  ;£45  for 

the  Quebec 
rest  the  gen- 
remained  in 
hen,  in  1773, 
the  two  or 
lie  had  been 
ns  attending 
:  habits,  neg- 
ccount  —  in 
rown's  side. 


Brown  continued  the  business  alone,  but  in  a 
very  careful  and  conservative  manner.  At 
this  time  much  sympathy  was  felt  throughout 
Canada  for  the  victims  of  the  Boston  mas- 
sacre and  their  families;,  subscriptions  were 
collected  for  the  latter.  Brown  contributed 
;^5o  to  this  fund,  a  very  handsome  sum  in 
those  days. 

Then  came  the  time  when  the  old  French 
province  was  invaded  by  the  Congressional 
army,  when  the  citadel  city  of  Quebec  re- 
mained the  last  foothold  of  England  in  Canada. 
Brown's  sentiments  of  loyalty  to  the  British 
crown  and  institutions  were  too  deep  rooted 
to  permit  him  to  sympathise  with  men  whom 
he  considered  to  be  rebels.  He  shouldered 
his  musket  and  served  devotedly  as  a  militia- 
man, on  the  walls  of  the  city,  at  the  battle  of 
the  31st  of  December,  1775,  when  Montgomery 
was  killed,  and  until  the  end  of  the  siege  in 
May  following,  when  the  retreat  of  the  besieg- 
ers under  General  Wooster  became  a  rout. 
After  the  beginning  of  the  siege  in  December, 
1775,  all  affairs  were  at  a  stand-still  and  the 
"  Quebec  Gazette  "  ceased  to  appear  until  the 
August  following,  when  the  country  had  re- 
covered, to  some  extent,  its  normal  condition. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  a  second  press  made 
its  appearance  in  Canada.  The  printers  were 
Fleury  Mesplet  and  Charles  Berger,  both  print- 
ers originally  from  old  France.  They  had  set- 
tled in  Philadelphia;  there  they  had  been  picked 
up  by  Franklin  who,  together  with  Samuel 
Chase  and  John  and  Charles  Carroll  of  Carroll- 
ton,  had  been  deputed  to  Canada  as  Commis- 
sioners of  Congress,  for  the  purpose  of  inducing 
the  French  Canadians  to  espouse  the  Revolu- 
tionary cause.  It  was  deemed  that  French 
printers  would  be  important  factors  in  dissemin- 
ating the  offers  and  blandishments  of  Congress, 
and  with  that  object  in  view  these  two  men  and 
a  press  followed  on  the  heels  of  the  Commission. 
The  Commissioners  perceiving  their  mission  a 
failure,  wisely  ecrossed  the  borders,  but  left 
behind  their  printers,  press  and  materials. 
These  two  worthies  first  opened  an  office  in 
Quebec,  and  their  first  output  was  a  volume 
of  French  hymns  Soon  after  they  returned 
to  Montreal,  where  they  printed  several  small 


works  of  a  religious  character.  Meanwhile, 
Charles  Berger  disappears  from  the  scene, 
leaving  Fleury  Mesplet  alone  to  prosecute  his 
trade.  He  signalized  himself,  in  1778,  by 
publishing  the  fi-st  French  newspaper  in  Can- 
ada, "La  Gazette  Litteraire,"  also  a  smaP 
almanac  for  1778  and  1779,  both  of  extreme 
rarity.  At  this  time  his  labors  were  violently 
interrupted ;  he  was  accused  of  republican 
sympathies,  sedition,  etc.,  and  thrown  into 
prison  in  Quebec.  There  he  remained  incar- 
cerated in  the  Recollet  convent  until  the  peace 
of  1783,  when  the  mother  country  ano  her 
daughter  agreed  to  live  apart.  Mesplet,  set 
free,  lost  no  time  in  recriminations,  but 
founded  the  "  Montreal  Gazette,"  which, 
although  still  extant,  had  at  first  a  very  fitful 
and  uncertain  existence  in  the  hands  of  sev- 
eral masters,  viz.:  Mesplet,  L.  &  J.  Roy,  Ed- 
ward Edwards,  James  Brown  a  nephew  of 
William  Brown,  and  others 

Meanwhile  our  friend  William  Brown  and 
his  Quebec  Gazette  continued  the  even  tenor 
of  their  ways.  The  large  number  of  troops 
stationed  ir  or  coming  through  Canada  during 
the  war,  and  when  peace  came,  the  renewal  of 
commercial  activity  brought  subscribers, 
printing  orders,  and  gold  into  his  strongbox. 
Previous  to  1779  annual  sheet  calendars  had 
been  found  amply  sufficient  for  the  needs  of 
the  country.  Brown  now  judged  that  alma- 
nacs would  be  appreciated  by  the  public,  and 
that  year  was  issued  the  Quebec  Almanack 
for  1780,  the  first  of  that  most  important 
series  of  almanacs  which  continued  to  appear 
year  after  year  until  1841.  The  older  num- 
bers are  now  exceedingly  scarce  —  they  are 
valued  by  collectors  at  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
dollars  apiece  —  all  are  rare  and  much  sought 
after  on  account  of  the  curious  and  important 
records  they  contain. 

William  Brown  died  suddenly  on  the  22d 
of  March,  1789,  aged  about  fifty-three.  He 
was  buried  in  St.  Matthew's  Cemetery,  John 
street,  Quebec.  He  had  never  married.  Four 
years  before  his  death  he  had  prevailed  on 
his  widowed  sister  in  Scotland,  Mrs.  Isabel 
Brown  Neilson,  to  confide  to  him  the  future 
of  her  son  Samuel.     Subsequently  John  fol- 


2CX) 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE   ST.    LAWRENCE   RIVER. 


'4» 


lowed  his  brother.  Although  but  mere  buys 
at  the  time  of  their  uncle's  death,  they  con- 
tinued to  manage  his  printing  business,  the 
Gazette,  his  government  contracts,  in  a  word, 
his  large  estate,  in  tl^eir  own  behalf  and  also 
for  the  benefit  of  other  heirs  in  Scotland,  for 
Brown  had  died  intestate.  Samuel  survived 
his  uncle  but  four  years.  He  died  in  January, 
1793.  His  death  was  a  distinct  loss  to  the 
Province,  for  few  men  are  endowed  willi  more 
practical  and  brilliant  qualities  than  he  had. 
He  was  a  particular  favorite  at  the  Chateau 
Saint  Louis  and  in  social  circles.  H.  R.  H. 
Prince  Edward  (Duke  of  Kent,  father  of 
Queen  Victoria)  honored  him  with  his  friend- 
ship—  he  was  then  colonel  of  the  7th  Fusi- 
leers  in  garrison  at  Quebec.  It  is  said  that 
Samuel  Neilson  contracted  the  cold  which 
caused  his  death  while  enjoying  a  tandem  sleigh 
drive  with  the  prince  Andre  Michaud,  the 
botanist,  mentions  him  in  his  memoirs  as  being 
a  man  of  surprising  scientific  attainments. 

The  young  Neilsons  showed  enterprise  and 
push  enough,  first,  to  found  the  "  Quebec 
Magazine,"  in  1791,  a  monthly  issue  (^^onie 
numbers  illustrated);  it  died  for  want  of  sup- 
port after  its  third  voUiinc,  shortly  after  the 
death  of  Samuel;  second,  to  buy  out  the  stock 
in  trade,  press,  etc.,  of  a  small  rival  sheet 
which  had  been  in  existence  a  few  years  in 
Quebec.  They  sent  this  material  and  one  of 
their  foremen,  named  Louis  Roy,  to  found  a 
printing  office  and  newspaper  at  New  Ark,  on 
the  Niagara  River,  the  new  capital  of  the  new 
province  of  Upper  Canada,  in  1793.  The 
"  Upper  Canada  Gazette  or  American  Oracle, " 
April  18,  1793,  was  the  result  of  their  enter- 
prise, ihe  pioneer  press  of  the  west.  Louis 
Roy,  however,  left  alone  to  himself,  disap- 
pointed his  patrons,  abandoned  his  post,  and 
returned  to  Montreal  the  year  following. 
G.  Tiffany  picked  up  the  work  where  Roy 
had  dropped  it,  and  continued  the  publication 
of  the  U.  C.  Gazette  until  its  transfer  to  York 
(now  Toronto)  in  1799,  where  it  was  printed 
by  VV.  Waters  and  T.  G.  Simons.  These 
printers  proved  unequal  to  the  task.  This 
gave  John  Neilson,  of  the  Quebec  Gazette,  a 
second  opportunity  ot  opening  a  branch  print- 


ing establishment  in  Upper  Canada.  He  se- 
lected for  that  purpose  his  trusted  foreman, 
John  Bennett,  and  supplied  him  with  u  fair 
equipment  from  his  office.  Bennett  started 
from  Quebec  in  June,  1801.  It  took  him  one 
month  and  three  days  to  reach  York.  On 
the  20th  of  August  he  wrote  to  John  Neilson: 
"  *  *  *  I  waited  on  the  Governor  (Sir  Peter 
Hunter,  nick-named  Blue  Peter),  when  His  Ex- 
cellency ajjpointed  me  "  King's  Printer  for  Up- 
per Canada,"'  and  Sheriff  MacDonell  sent  with 
me  to  demand  the  types  from  my  predeces- 
sors, who  had  not  the  least  wind  of  the  busi- 
ness. Mr.  Simons  is  a  young  man  of  some 
abilities,  and  much  believes  in  York's  future, 
but  it  appears  his  sentiments  were  rather 
inimical  to  government.  Waters,  whom  I 
have  now  to  assist  me,  is  as  honest,  good- 
natured  a  fellow  as  I  would  wish  to  see,  only 
he  likes  to  take  a  hearty  twist  at  the  bottle, 
etc.  *  *  *  Simons  has  acquired  a  genteel 
property  since  he  has  been  in  government  em- 
ploy, and  Waters  is  also  possessed  of  some." 

Bennett  took  over  the  publication  of  the 
Upper  Canada  Gazette,  and  set  immediately 
about  i)rinting  the  first  volume  of  the  "  Jour- 
nals of  the  House  of  Assembly  of  Upper 
Canada,"  in  iSoi,  a  quarto  of  74  pages.  The 
"Statutes"  followed  in  1802;  a  beautifully 
printed  "Almanack"  for  1803,  etc.,  etc.;  all 
which  are  of  exceeding  scarcity.  Bennett, 
unfortunately  by  contamination,  or  natural  in- 
clination, drifted  into  habits  similar  to  those  of 
his  assistant.  Waters.  He  neglected  his  busi- 
nes';;  he  became  involved  in  all  sorts  of  trouble; 
finally,  John  Neilson,  in  1807-8,  had  to  come 
to  York  to  close  in  disgust  his  connection 
with  the  printing  business  in  Upper  Canada. 

At  the  end  of  last  century,  G.  and  Sylvester 
Tiffany  continued  printing  at  Niagara.  Their 
paper  was  known  as  the  "  Constellation." 
They  issued  an  almanac  in  1802.  The  other 
pioneers  of  the  press,  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  were:  S.  Miles,  who  founded  the 
"  Kingston  Gazette  "  in  1810,  at  Kingston, 
now  represented  by  the  "  Daily  News. "  The 
same  printer  started  the  "  Prescott  Telegraph" 
in  1823.  The  "  Brockville  Recorder"  was 
originated  in  1820.  ,    =., 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCH  OF  /.  L.  H.  NEILSON. 


301 


a.     He  se- 
el  foreman, 
witli  ii  fair 
lett   started 
lok  him  une 
York.     On 
in  Neilson : 
)r  (Sir  Peter 
hen  His  Ex- 
nter  for  Up- 
;11  sent  with 
ly  predeces- 
oi  the  busi- 
an  of  some 
»rk's  future, 
were    rather 
rs,   whom    1 
mest,  good- 
to  see,  only 
the   bottle, 
ed  a  genteel 
;rnment  em- 
1  of  some." 
itinn  of  the 
immediately 
the  "  Jour- 
\f  of    Upper 
pages.    The 
beautifully 
tc,  etc.;  all 
Bennett, 
r  natural  in- 
r  to  those  of 
ed  his  busi- 
ts  of  trouble; 
ad  to  come 
connection 
per  Canada, 
nd  Sylvester 
gara.    Their 
istellation." 
The  other 
;s  of  the  St. 
founded  the 
t   Kingston, 
ews."     The 
Telegraph  " 
order  "  was 


The  population  of  both  Canadas  now  in- 
creased with  rapid  strides,  and  with  it  innu- 
merable press's  ind  periodicals  of  all  sorts — 
some  possessed  of  vitality;  others  of  the  mush- 
room tribe,  and  ephemeral  in  nature,  arose, 
lived  and  vanished  in  every  new  village. 

To  return  to  the  old  Quebec  press.  After 
the  death  of  his  brother  Samuel,  in  1793, 
J  )hn  Neilson  continued  the  publication  of  the 
Quebec  Gazette.  Under  his  editorship  and 
mina.;ement  it  gained  in  influence  and  im- 
pirtance;  addressing  itself  in  its  French  and 
English  columns  to  both  nationalities,  with  no 
serious  rival  in  sight,  it  became  a  power  in  the 
land,  while,  at  the  same  time,  it  was  the  vehicle 
of  government  proclamations  t^nd  mandates. 
John  Neilson  was  elected  to  the  legislature  in 
18 1 7,  and  he  occupied  a  seat  in  the  councils 
of  the  nation  until  his  death.  His  great  abili- 
ties, his  integrity,  his  devotion  to  the  public 
weal,  his  eloquence,  his  powerful  editorials  in 
his  paper,  soon  brought  him  to  the  front  rank 
among  the  public  men  of  his  day.  Thrice 
he  was  deputed  to  London  by  his  fellow 
<  ilizens  to  watch  over  their  interests,  and 
O'l  one  occasion  to  present  petitions  for  re- 
dress at  the  foot  of  the  throne.     He  died  in 


1848,  aged  73,  regretted,  loved    and    revered 
by  all. 

The  Quebec  Gazette  celebrated  its  centen- 
nial sixteen  years  after  his  death,  in  i  ^64. 
Thirty-one  years  have  since  then  elapsed,  and 
the  (2  iel)ec  Gazette  continues  to  appear.  Its 
last  number,  now  before  me,  is  dated  Wednes- 
day. May  1,1895,  No.  12,371,  vol.  cxxiv.  For 
some  years  past  it  has  been  practically  the 
weekly  edition  of  the  Quebec  Chronicle,  and 
owned  by  the  same  proprietor.  It  is  twenty- 
three  years  older  than  the  London  Times,  and 
now  one  of  the  oldest  newspapers  in  the 
world.  It  may  be  of  interest  to  the  readers 
of  this  historical  sketch  to  know  that  its 
writer  has  in  his  collection  a  complete  file  of 
the  Quebec  Gazette,  from  its  prospectus  and 
first  number,  on  June  21,  1764,  up  to  1850, 
the  subsequent  years  are  unfortunately  not 
quite  so  complete.  Such  as  it  is,  this  long 
series  of  files  of  the  same  newspaper,  covering 
nearly  a  century  and  a  half  of  time,  is  believed 
to  be  unique.  

It  is  safe  to  state  that  the  preceding  pages 
embody  more  facts  relating  to  the  origin  of 
printing  in  Canada  than  has  yet  been  given  to 
the  public  by  any  other  writer  on  this  subject. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    SKETCH    OF    J.    L.    H.    NEILSON, 


A., 


M.     D.,   R.    C. 

Few,  if  any,  officers  at  present  in  the  mili- 
tary service  of  Canada,  have  experienced  such 
varied  war  service  as  the  subject  of  this  sketch. 
Shortly  after  graduating  as  M.  D.,  he  was  ap- 
pointed assistant  surgeon  to  the  Royal  Artil- 
lery in  Canada,  in  October,  1869.  In  April, 
1870,  he  was  selected  to  form  part  of  the 
medical  staff  of  the  small  army  sent  under 
colonel  (now  Lord  Wolseley),  to  suppress  the 
first  Red  River  rebellion.  This  proved  to  be 
one  of  the  most  difficiilt  and  arduous  expedi- 
tions ever  undertaken  by  British  troops,  but 
attended  with  complete  success.  He  re- 
mained eighteen  months  attached  to  the  mili- 
tary service  in  the  north-west,  volunteering 
meanwhile  to  attend  the  victims  of  a  frightful 


DEPUTY    SURGEON-GENERAL. 

small-pox  epidemic  which  raged  among  the 
Indians  on  the  plains.  In  the  autumn  of  1871, 
he  was  recalled  to  Canada  to  assist  in  the  organ- 
ization of  A  and  B  Batteries  of  regular  Cana- 
dian Artillery,  and  since  that  time  has  re- 
rnamed  connected  with  the  artillery  service 
He  accompanied  his  corps  in  several  bloody 
encounters  with  the  mobs  of  the  ancient 
capital  during  the  labor  riots  from  1872-7. 
At  this  time  he  was  attached  to  the  Army 
Medical  School  at  Netley,  in  England.  Dur- 
ing the  Russo-Turkish  campaign  in  the  Bal- 
kans, he  volunteered  in  the  Red  Cross 
ambulances.  At  the  close  of  the  campaign 
he  returned  to  his  former  duties  in  Canada. 
During  the  winter  of  1879-80,  he  spent  some 


202 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


weeks  in  Washington,  studying  the  admirable 
medical  organization  of  the  United  States 
Army,  then  under  the  able  administration  of 
those  war  veterans,  Generals  Barnes  and 
Crane. 

In  1884,  when  it  was  decided  to  select  the 
Nile  route  for  the  Gordon  relief  expedition, 


organizing,  equipping,  disciplining  and  con- 
ducting to  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs  these 
rough,  half-wild  backwoodsmen  and  Indians, 
previously  unaccustomed  to  restraint  or  con- 
trol of  any  sort ;  yet,  within  six  weeks  of  the 
issue  of  the  first  cable  order,  480  voyageurs 
were  landed  in  Alexandria,  and  ten  days  later 


•■»• 


J.    L.    HUBERT   NEIL80N,    ESQ.,    M.    D.,    R.    C.    A.,    DEPUTY    SURGEON-GENERAL. 


Lord  Wolseley  called  to  his  aid  the  hardy 
Canadian  voyageurs  to  assist  the  troops  in 
overcoming  the  cataracts  and  rapids  of  the 
Nile.  Lord  Wolseley  specially  selected  Col. 
Denison  and  Dr.  Neilson,  whom  he  remem- 
bered favorably  during  the  Red  River  expedi- 
tion of  1870-71,  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting. 


they  were  at  work  in  the  Soudan.  After  his  ar- 
rival in  Egypt,  Dr.  Neilson  was  attached  to  the 
first  field  hospital.  He  followed  the  troops  in 
their  arduous  march  across  the  Bayuda  desert, 
was  present  at  Abu  Klea,  etc.  Then  later  he 
was  sent  to  Suakim,  on  the  Red  Sea  coast. 
For  these  services  in  Egypt,  he  was  specially 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCH  OF  J.    L.  H.  NEILSON. 


203 


;  and  con- 
raohs  these 
nd  Indians, 
lint  or  con- 
'eeks  of  the 

I  voyageurs 

II  days  later 


iter  his  ar- 
:hed  to  the 
e  troops  in 
jda  desert, 
jn  later  he 
Sea  coast. 
}  specially 


mentioned  in  Lord  Wolesley's  despatches,  as 
published  in  the  London  Official  Ciazette  of 
August  25,  1885.  He  was  rewarded  with  the 
Egyptian  war  medal  with  two  clasps,  the 
Kh^divial  bronze  star  and  made  Knight  of 
the  Royal  Order  of  Milusine,  for  special  ser- 
vices gratuitously  given  to  Christian  refugees, 
who  had  fled  from  Khartoum  before  the  siege 
commenced. 

Since  that  date,  Dr.  Neilson  has  served  in 
peace,  chiefly  as  medical  officer  of  the  Royal 
Military  College  of  Kingston,  Canada  (see 
page  28  of  this  volume),  and  of  the  garrison 
of  Kingston  as  Chairman  of  the  Board  on 
Militia  Medical  Organization,  etc.,  etc. 

He  has  found  time  between  his  many  pro- 
fessional callings  to  follow  liis  natural  bent 
towards  historical  research.  His  library  of 
books,  MSS.,  maps,  portraits  and  reviews — re- 
lating to  the  history  of  America,  and  of  Canada 
in  particular  —  is  one  of  if  not  the  largest  pos- 
sessed by  any  private  individual;  in  fact,  it  is 
quite  unique.  This  famous  library  was  com- 
menced in  iSoi,  when  his  grandfather,  the  late 
Honorable  John  Neilson,  of  the  Quebec  Ga- 
zette, purchased  the  greater  part  of  the  rare 
books  and  MSS.  belonging  to  the  old  Jesuit 
College  in  Quebec  when  it  was  sold  by  order 
of  the  Government.  To  these  beginnings 
have  been  added  the  collections  of  three  lives. 
We  might  enumerate  a  few  of  the  MSS.: 
One  was  written  by  Pere  Marquette  in  167 1, 
the  discoverer  of  the  Mississippi,  entitled 
"  PrjEces  Illinicae,"  written  in  the  dialect  of 
the  Illinois  Indians;  it  is  thought  to  be  all  that 
remains  e.xtant  of  this  language.  The  Pere 
Sylvie  MS.  of  about  1680,  is  a  dictionary  of 
the  Montagnais  language,  and  philologically 
important,  as  well  as  four  other  old  Jesuit 
MSS.  All  the  Wm.  Brown  correspondence 
with  Philadelphia,  relating  to  the  origin  of 
printing  in  Canada,  his  diary,  and  all  his 
account  books  from  1764-89,  and  the  office 
books  of  the  Neilsons  and  their  correspondence 
until  1850,  containing  all  their  printing  trans- 
actions; an  enormous  number  of  correspond- 
ence and  letters  of  public  men,  from  the  be- 
ginning to  the  middle  of  the  present  century, 
etc.,  etc.,  form  part  of  its  riches.     Among  the 


printed,  books  are  a  complete  file  of  the  Que- 
bec Gazette  from  June,  1764,  to  the  present 
day;  fifty-five  years  of  the  Quebec  Almanacks 
from  1781  to  1841 — by  far  the  most  complete 
series  known;  the  presentment  of  the  grand 
jury,  Quebec,  1765  ;  the  Stamp  Act,  Quebec, 
1765;  Labrasse's  Nehiro-Irenui,  1767;  Cugnet's 
Laws,  Quebec,  1775;  the  Traits  d^s  Mes- 
sieurs, Quebec,  1772;  the  Mohawk  Prayer 
Book,  Quebec,  1780;  Reglement  de  la  Con- 
frerie  Mesplet,  Montreal,  1776  (first  book 
printed  in  Montre-il)  ;  the  Upper  Canada 
Almanack,  York,  1802,  together  with  all  of 
Bennett's  and  Louis  Roy's  correspondence 
relating  to  the  early  Upper  Canada  press;  the 
Quebec  Directory,  1790;  the  Quebec  Maga- 
zine, three  volumes,  1 79 1-2;  the  British- Ameri- 
can Register,  Quebec,  1805;  the  Canadian, 
1807-10,  etc.,  etc. ;  the  original  Jesuit  rela- 
tions, Champlain,  1619;  Lescarbot,  161 1; 
Sagard,  1630;  DeLact,  1640,  are  represented 
by  choice  examples.  To  these  value  is  added 
by  the  binder's  best  efforts.  This  collection 
is  also  exceptionally  rich  in  early  Canadian 
pamphlets. 

Dr.  Neilson  has  supplied  the  press  and 
magazines  with  many  articles  embodying  his 
researches:  ''The  Royal  Canadian  Volunteers, 
1794-1802;  "  "The  Diary  of  a  French  Cana- 
dian Officer  during  the  war  of  181 2;"  "The 
Last  Days  of  Fort  Frontenac  under  the  Fleur 
de  Lis,"  are  historical  sketches  of  real  merit. 
The  article  on  the  "  Origin  of  Printing  on 
the  Shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  in  tliis 
volume,  is  from  his  pen.  Dr.  Neilson  has, 
for  years,  given  much  attention  and  labor  to 
the  collection  of  material  for  a  history  of  the 
origin  of  the  press  in  Canada,  and  a  biblio- 
graphy of  the  early  Canadia  printers  up  to 
1820,  and  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  his 
volume  may  appear  before  many  months. 

Dr.  Neilson  is  one  of  the  founder;  and  first 
vice-president  of  the  Kingston  Historical  So- 
ciety and  for  the  second  time  president  of  the 
Mechanics'  Institute;  he  is  honorary  member 
of  the  Numismatic  and  Historical  Society  of 
Montreal;  of  the  Societa  Araldicae  Historica  cf 
Rome;  of  the  Institut  de  Psychologic  of  Paris, 
etc.,  etc.     He  is  hereditary  Seigneur  of  the 


204 


/i  sou y/:.\7A'   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE   RIVER, 


Seigniory  of  Hubert,  in  the  province  of  Que- 
bec. His  private  residence  is  (ilendornal, 
Neilsonville,  P.  Q. 

His  medical  sphere  of  action  is  strictly 
limited  to  the  military  under  liis  immediate 
charge.  Professional  reading  engrosses  much 
of  his  time,  being  favored  with  an  open,  liber;  1 
and  independent  mind  —  unhampered  by  the 
dogmatic  teachings  of  schools  —  new  ideas  and 
new  methods  enlist  his  sympathy,  and  if  pos- 
sjssed  of  merit  are  ado])ted  by  him  ;  he  has 
thus  become  an  adept  of  the  system  of  medi- 
cine known  as  Burgrasvian  or  Dosimetric  — 
he  has  for  years  investigated  tlie  application  of 
Hypnotism  to  the  treatment  of  certain  forms 
of  disease.    Under  this  head  he  has  contributed 


articles  to  the  "  Revue  de  I'Hypnotism,"  j)ub- 
lished  in  Paris,  which  have  attracted  attention 
abroad. 

Dr.  Neilson  is  unassuming,  easily  approach- 
ed, a  man  of  many  admirable  traits  of  charat  - 
ter.  As  a  bibliographer  he  is  probably  ndi 
excelled  in  the  country.  From  his  library 
have  come  the  excellent  pictures  of  Count 
Frontenac  and  the  Chevalier  La  Salle,  whitli 
are  reproduced  in  this  volume  ;  two  pictures 
that  would  be  difficult  to  duplicate  in  Canada. 
Deputy  Surgeon-General  Neilson's  services  in 
the  field  have  won  for  him  merited  promotion, 
but  his  real  worth  is  best  appreciated  by  those 
with  whom  he  has  served,  and  by  those  who 
know  him  best. 


MELZAR     FOWLER. 


Melzar  Fowler,  now  only  dimly  remem- 
bi;red  by  the  older  people  of  Jefferson  county, 
N.  Y.,  was  born  in  Edinburgh,  Saratoga 
ioiinty,  N.  Y.,  in  1803,  and  came  to  Depau- 
ville  in  the  early  twenties  with  his  parents, 
Anson  Fowler  and  Maria  Esselstyn  Fowler. 
His  sister  Jane  also  accompanied  them  (she 
subsequently  marrying  Eldridge  G.  Merick), 
and  her  brother  John.  The  father  com- 
menced a  mercantile  business  in  Depauville,  a 
new  settlement  which  had  just  begun  to  de- 
velop its  lumbering  interest.  This  settlement 
was  on  the  rapids  of  Catfish  Creek,  which  at 
that  time  was  a  stream  of  fair  size,  with  suffi- 
cient water  to  float  timber  down  to  its  mouth 
at  Lake  Ontario  —  not  at  all  resembling  the 
greatly  diminished  stream  it  now  appears,  after 
having  its  banks,  aloig  its  whole  course,  de- 
nuded of  timber.  The  care  of  this  business 
early  fell  upon  Melzar,  the  eldest  son,  and 
when  he  was  about  twenty  years  of  age  he 
bore  the  responsibility  of  his  father's  mercan- 
tile affairs. 

After  some  years,  wishing  to  extend  his 
operations,  Melzar  established  a  store  at 
Brownville,  and  went  there  to  live,  still  main- 
taining the  supervision  of  the  store  at  Depau- 
ville.     His  younger  brother,  John,  also  came 


to  Brownville  as  a  clerk,  and  was  given  an 
interest  in  the  business. 

At  that  time  one  branch  of  Mr.  Fowler's 
mercantile  business  was  the  manufacture  ol 
pearl  ash  from  wood  ashes.  The  forests  of 
Jefferson  county  furnished  the  only  fuel  in 
those  days,  and  the  people  of  the  country 
saved  their  ashes  and  sold  them  to  him,  and, 
in  a  building  for  the  purpose,  he  converted 
these  ashes  into  pearl  ash,  which  was  an  im- 
portant ai  cle  of  commerce,  and  found  steady 
market  in  New  York. 

Shortly  after  establishing  himself  at  Brown- 
ville, Melzar  married  Miss  Clarissa  Spicer,  a 
sister  of  Mr.  Silas  Spicer,  of  Perch  River,  and 
during  their  residence  there  their  two  child- 
ren, Eldridge  and  Nettie,  were  born.  During 
these  years  Melzar  enlarged  his  field  of  opera- 
tions at  Djjjauville  by  engaging  with  Mr. 
Merick  in  the  business  of  getting  out  oak 
timber  and  rafting  it  to  the  Quebec  market. 
In  the  spring  of  1835  he  moved  his  family  to 
Depauville,  giving  up  the  business  in  Brown- 
ville, in  order  that  he  might  give  his  entire 
attention  to  tlie  Depauville  operations,  and  be 
with  his  aged  parents,  while  John  went  to 
Clayton  in  the  interest  of  Smith  &  Merick. 

At  that  early  day,  Watertown  was,  as  it   is 


tism,"  [)ub- 
d  attention 

r  approach- 
»  of  cliara(- 
robably  ikh 
his  library 
s  of  Count 
»alle,  whicii 
vo  pictures 

in  Canada. 

services  in 
promotion, 
ed  by  those 
'  those  who 


JOHN  N.   FOWLER. 


205 


s   given  an 

r.  Fowler's 

jfacture  ol 

forests  of 

ly  fuel  in 

le  country 

him,  and, 

converted 

ras  an  im- 

Lind  steady 

at  Brown- 

Spicer,  a 

River,  and 

wo   child- 

During 

1  of  opera- 

with    Mr. 

out  oak 
c  market. 

family  to 
in  Brown- 
his  entire 
ns,  and  be 

went    to 
lerick. 
s,  as  it  is 


now,  the  business  center  for  the  surrounding 
country,  the  only  method  of  travel  being  by 
private  conveyance.  It  was  while  going  there 
on  business  in  August,  1835,  soon  after  the 
family  moved  to  Depauville,  that  Mr.  Fowler 
had  the  great  misfortune  to  have  a  pair  of 
horses,  one  of  which  was  vicious  and  unre- 
liable. 

He  stopped  at  a  hotel,  and  when  it  came 
time  to  feed  the  animal  the  hostler  was  afraid 
to  enter  the  stall,  and  called  Mr.  Fowler  from 
the  hotel,  who  at  once  took  the  feed-measure 
in  his  hand  and  entered  the  stall.  The  vic- 
ious horse,  not  recognizing  his  master,  dealt 
him  a  blow  with  one  of  his  forefeet,  which 
proved  fatal  in  three  days.  Everything  was 
done  for  Mr.  Fowler  that  could  be  known, 
but  the  blow  had  produced  an  internal 
rupture. 

Thus  died,  in  the  flower  of  his  youth,  and 
in  the  midst  of  his  usefulness,  one  who  had 
the  warm  regard  of  all  his  business  associates, 
and  whose  morning  of  life  was  full  of  promise. 

It  is  remembered  of  Mr.  Fowler  that  many 
farmers  brought  their  sons  to  him  to  educate 
in  mercantile  pursuits,  so  great  was  their  con- 
fidence in  his  possessing  all  the  traits  that 
would  bring  such  youths  into  an  earnest  and 
successful  manhood. 

His  death,  so  sudden,   so  tragical,  elicited 


universal  regret  and  sympathy.  His  wife  and 
her  two  children  remained  at  Depauville,  but 
the  faithful  mother  never  was  herself  again. 
A  woman  of  superior  mental  ability  and  per- 
sonal beauty,  and  with  a  natural  refinement 
much  beyond  most  of  those  by  whom  she  was 
stirroimded,  her  loss  wore  upon  her  energies, 
and  she  survived  her  husband  only  seven  years. 

The  two  children,  lOldridge  and  Nettie, 
thus  left  orphans  at  the  age  of  nine  and  seven 
years,  respectively,  were  tenderly  cared  for  by 
their  grandmother  Fowler  and  their  uncle, 
Hon.  E.  G.  Mcrick. 

Elridge  went  later  to  live  in  the  family  of 
Mr.  Hugh  Smith,  of  Perch  River,  and  after- 
wards with  his  uncle  John  Fowlt;r  until  com- 
ing of  age,  when  he  went  West,  where  he  has 
since  lived  and  become  indentified  with  large 
lumber  and  land  interests  in  Michigan,  Min- 
nesota and  Canada. 

The  daughter  grew  to  womanhood  in  the 
home  of  her  grandparents  and  her  uncle  and 
aunt  Mcrick,  receiving  at  their  hands  the  best 
educational  advantages.  She  married  Cyrus 
H.  McCormick,  of  reaper  fame.  Both  as  the 
right-hand  helper  of  her  husband  during  his 
life-time,  and  later  in  the  administration  of 
his  estate  (with  her  son  Cyrus),  she  has  been 
called  to  bear  some  of  the  heavier  responsi- 
bilities of  life. 


JOHN  N.  FOWLER. 


The  writer  of  this  sketch  never  had  any 
personal  acquaintance  with  the  subject  of  it. 
For  the  facts  stated  herein  he  is  indebted  to 
several  old  residents  of  Clayton,  chiefly  the 
following,  viz.:  Thomas  Rees,  a  partner  of 
Mr.  Fowler  in  some  of  his  business  enter- 
prises, who  made  a  written  statement  of  facts; 
Messrs.  D.  C.  Porter  and  Perry  Caswell, 
members  of  the  M.  E.  Church  with  Mr. 
Fowler,  who  was  a  faithful  and  substantial 
member  of  that  church;  A.  F.  Barker,  John 
Johnston  and  Capt.  William  Rees. 

Ths  father  of  Mr.  Fowler  came  from  the 
eastern  part  of  this  State  and  settled  in 
Depauville  in   the  early  part  of  this  century. 


There  he  engaged  in  mercantile  business  and 
reared  his  family.  In  time,  one  of  his  daugh- 
ters became  the  wife  of  Hon.  E.  G.  Merick, 
subject  of  a  biographical  sketch  elsewhere  in 
this  volume.  One  of  his  sons,  Melzar,  was 
father  of  Nettie  Fowler,  afterwards  the  wife, 
and  now  the  widow  of  Cyrus  H.  McCormick, 
of  Chicago.  A  lady  of  great  wealth,  and 
whose  generous  heart  and  bountiful  hand 
have  justly  earned  her  a  reputation,  of  which 
it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  it  is  national. 

John  N.  Fowler  left  Depauville  in  1835, 
and  came  to  Clayton.  He  purchased  the  in- 
terest of  a  Mr.  Moreton  in  the  old  store  of 
Smith  &  Merick,  standing  on  the  bank  of  the 


2o6 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  I..  I  WHENCE  A'/l'ER. 


river,  where  Simon  Hreslow's  store  is  now 
located.  Stephen  I  laic,  a  clerk  for  Mr. 
Fowler  for  a  few  years,  afterwards  became 
his  partner  in  the  store.  But  Mr.  Fowler 
could  not  confme  himself  to  mere  storekeep- 
ing.  The  country  was  new  and  rich  in  botli 
soil  and  timber.  In  1836  or  18,57  1^*-"  P"""' 
chased  several  hundred  acres  of  land  lying 
about  two  miles  south  of  Clayton.  In  a  few 
years  this  wild  land  was  converted  into  a 
farm,  so  well  improved  that  the  County 
Agricultural  Society  bestowed  on  its  owner  a 
first  prize  for  his  improvements. 

In  1844,  Mr.  Fowler  formed  a  partnership 
with  Henry  Esselstyn  under  the  name  of 
Fowler  &  Esselstyn.  The  latter  had  for  years 
been  bookkeeper  in  the  large  lumbering  busi- 
ness of  E.  ("f.  Merick,  and  the  business  of 
Fowler  &  Esselstyn  was  carried  on  in  con- 
junction with  his.  It  consisted  of  rafting  and 
forwarding  to  the  Quebec  market  a  vast 
amount  of  timber  and  staves,  brought  to  Clay- 
ton in  vessels  from  the  shores  of  the  upper 
lakes,  and  in  ship  building.  For  many  years 
they  built  one  to  four  steamers  and  sailing 
vessels  every  year.  All  the  following  named, 
and  many  more,  were  built  at  their  yard  in 
Clayton,  viz.:  Bay  State,  Cataract  and  New 
York.  The  British  Queen  and  British  Em- 
pire, designed  for  use  down  the  river,  were 
built  by  them  at  Port  Metcalf  in  Canada. 

During  much  of  the  time  Mr.  Fowler  was 
so  engaged  with  Mr.  Merick,  he  dealt  largely 
in  real  estate  on  his  own  separate  account. 
He  bought  a  large  tract  lying  contiguous  to 
Clayton,  known  as  the  Lawrence  Lands.  He 
disposed  of  the  property  to  actual  settlers,  and 
invested  the  proceeds  in  timber-lands  in  the 


West  ;  anil,  as  coincidently,  the  lumbering 
business  of  tiie  firm  was,  year  after  year,  ex- 
tending farther  and  farther  westward,  there 
was  a  constantly  growing  necessity  to  move 
the  place  of  business  in  that  direction.  At 
first  a  branch  office  was  opened  in  Detroit 
But  with  Clayton  as  a  base  of  operations, 
Detroit  was  found  to  be  an  inconvenient  out- 
last with  the  means  of  communication  then 
in  vogue.  And,  more  than  tins,  Detroit  had 
become  a  city,  rapid  in  growth,  brilliant  in 
prospects,  and  already  taking  a  prominent 
[)osition  in  shipbuilding  for  the  upper  lakes. 
Cut  off  from  that  region  by  the  small  pro- 
portions of  the  Welland  canal,  and  at  great 
disadvantage  in  the  matter  of  timber,  not  to 
speak  of  other  important  items  in  shi])build- 
ing,  little  Clayton  could  no  longer  hold  this 
great  and  enterprising  firm.  In  1856  their 
Clayton  property  and  business  was  disposed 
of  to  Thomas  Rees,  and  tiiey  moved  to  De- 
troit. There  they  opened  an  immense  dry- 
dock  and  ship-yard,  and  continued  lumbering 
operations  in  the  West,  under  the  firm  naiiu- 
of  Merick,  Fowler  (.\:  Esselstyn. 

The  old  acquaintances  of  Mr.  Fowler  still 
living  in  Clayton,  speak  of  him  as  a  man  ot 
great  energy  and  wonderful  endurance,  a 
strict  church  member,  a  public  spirited  citi- 
zen, an  honorable  man  and  one  highly  exact 
in  his  requirements  of  others,  while  holding 
himself  bound  by  the  same  rule  of  conduct. 
To  him  may  be  applied  this  grand  and  safe 
rule  of  excellence  and  ability  —  in  every  sta- 
tion where  he  was  known,  boy  or  man,  and  in 
whatever  he  undertook,  he  measured  fully  up 
to  the  requirements  of  the  occasion.  That  is 
a  test  which  can  be  applied  to  but  few  men. 

G.  H.  s. 


THE  SPICER  FAMILY. 


Standing  well  up  from  the  river's  edge,  on 
Hemlock  Island,  one  mile  west  of  Thousand 
Island  Park,  is  the  cottage  shown  above, 
built  in  the  winter  of  1875-6,  being  one  of  the 
earliest  upon  the  river.  It  is  the  summer 
borne  of  Hon.  Henry  Spicer,  for  nearly  his 


whole   lifetime    a  resident    of    Perch     'iver, 
N.  Y. 

The  Spicer  family  was  one  of  the  early  ar- 
rivals in  Jefferson  county,  and  trace  their 
lineage  in  an  unbroken  descent  from  three 
brothers,  natives  of  Normandy,  who  came  into- 


THE  Sl'lCER   lAMlLY. 


307 


lumbering 
r  year,  cx- 
ard,  there 
y  to  movt! 
;tion.  At 
n  Detroit 
)pcrations, 
:nient  out- 
ation  then 
etroit  hail 
)rilliant  in 
prominent 
per  lakes. 
>mall  pro- 
J  at  gre;ii 
)er,  not  td 
shipbuild- 
hold  this 
1856  their 
s  disposed 
ed  to  l)e- 
lense  dry- 
lumbering: 
firm  namr 

'owler  still 
i  a  man  ot 
iurance,  a 
irited  citi- 
ghly  exact 
ilc  holding 
if  conduct. 

and   safe 

every  sta- 

an,  and  in 

d  fully  up 

That  is 

few  men. 

G.  H.  s. 


■cli     ''ver, 

early  ar- 
■ace    theii 
rom    three 
came  into 


England  as  "gentlemen  voliinfeers "  with 
William  the  Concjuerer.  These  brothers  set- 
tled respectively  in  Devonshire,  Warwick  and 
Kent,  Kngland.  The  two  who  settled  in 
Devonshire  and  Warwick  still  have  descend- 
ants residing  there.  In  the  36th  year  of 
Queen  Elizabeth's  reign  (1594)  an  account  is 
given  of  this  family,  from  their  first  "being 
officers  and  magistrates  of  the  honorable  city 
of  Exeter,  beginning  with  the  first  year  of 
England's  first  Edward  (1273)  and  continuing 
to  the  7th  year  of  Queen  Anne  (1708);  and 


honorable  a  city,  continuing  for  so  long  x 
course  of  years,  their  estate  being  also  eipiiva- 
lent  to  their  anti<|uity — they  having  also  be- 
stowed a  considerable  one  on  the  <hamber  of 
Exeter,  to  uphold  its  guardian."  In  1357  it 
is  fiirlher  related  tiiat  "  the  Black  Prince  (son 
of  Edward  III)  came  out  of  France  bringing 
with  him  prisoner,  King  John  of  France, 
whom  he  had  taken  a  little  time  before  at 
Poictiers.  He  landed  at  Plymouth,  and  came 
to  Exeter,  where  John  Spicer  was  mayor,  who 
received  the  prince  and  his  prisoner  with  much 


"  GLEN-COVE  "  COTTAGE,  HEMLOCK  ISLAND. 


during  the  whole  of  these  435  years  some  one 
the  Spicer  family  was  mayor  of  Exeter.  Of 
this  illustrious  line  "John  Spicer"  was  mayor 
f  m  1252  to  1359 — 107  years,  though,  of 
course, there  were  several  individual  "Johns." 
In  an  accurate  account  of  the  ancient  fam- 
ily of  Spicers,  taken  from  an  original  manu- 
script extrac"  1  from  a  description  of  the 
Countyof  Devon,  A.  D.,  17 14,  we  learn  that  "but 
few  families  in  England  can  show  such  a  pre- 
cedent of  the  office  of  mayor  of  so  ancient  and 


display."  It  is  further  related  that  the  "fam- 
ily of  Spicers  in  the  times  of  the  three  Edwards 
were  principal  officers  and  magistrates  of 
Exeter,  and  were  then  considered  for  their 
many  and  gentlemanly  qualities  and  virtues  ; 
for  in  those  days  such  men  for  their  virtues  and 
not  for  their  wealth,  were  magistrates  and 
governors,  and  in  all  places  of  trust." 

Members  of  this  distinguished  family  were 
in  Jamestown,  Va.,  in  1618,  and  in  Rhode 
Island  in  1660.     They  were  also  settled  in  the 


308 


.1   :^i>L  i/u\/A-   O/'    IHE   ST.   LAWRENCE  hllEN. 


vicinity  of  fitonitigtusi,  ronn..  until  .iftcr  '.li- 
Ki-voliitioiiaiv  War.  I'licy  wfio  ')()il'  otiii  irs 
ami  |ni\.it('s  in  tlic  ("oiitinontal  Ariin.  and 
foui^lr  I'ldin  Hunkci-  llill  to  S."ito).r,i.  'i'lu-y 
1  ami-  into  Nfw  York  in  i7(j.',  and  into  Jcflfr- 
s<in  iiumty  in  iSi  j. 

Till-     1•'.S^^K!  STYNS. 

'rtic  amlu-r  ol'  thu  vohimc  lias  had  arci'ss 
xo  papiTs.  well  aiitlionticated.  wiiir'i  sliow  tliat 
till'  l-'ssc-lstvn  tainily  (conun^ncinf;  with  Kinj; 
(.'lovis  in  500  A.  p.)  wiTf  of  till-  sanu"  sto.  k 
as  those  of  that  n.mu'  wiio  ranu-  to  Ami'iica, 
but  x'w:  y.\.\W  o\  their  arrival  in  this  country  is 
jet  uncertain. 

Vwv  ("in  r  rK.Ni>i".Ns. 

.\notluT  t'.ut  he  lui'^  discovered,  that  the 
(.'hiite-ukn  family  are  r.-lated  to  the  Kssels- 
ly;is  .uul  the  I'dwlers.  'Thomas  ChitteiuK'H, 
a  linen  we.iver.  came  with  'lis  son  Isaac  into 
Anu'iica  m  '(1,^5  from  Wapping,  in  Rent, 
i-'.ngland,  set  in-;  in  riymouth  comity.  Mass., 
.iiul  ins  dcM  eiul.mis  are  still  foinul  there. 
Willi.im  riiitienden  was  one  of  tlie  company 
o\  twentvfp  e.  jjatheret'  chielly  from  Kent, 
Siirrev  and  Sussex  in  the  South  of  England, 
who  determined  to  leave  tlieir  native  country 
and  seek  a  new  home  in  the  wilderness  of 
.-Vmerica.  Their  i'lrst  recorcied  acts  as  a  se|)a- 
rate  commiinitv  was  a  covenant  which  they 
signei!  on  ship-hoaiil,  while  on  the  ])assage, 
liinding  each  other  to  plant  themselves  in 
Xev,-  Kiigl.iiui.  near  Qiiinnipiack.  if  jiossible, 
and  to  be  helpful  to  each  other  in  every  com- 
mon wnk.  .u-cord'.ng   to  every  man's   ability. 


and  as  need  should  reipiiie.  Ik-sides  Williatn 
Ciiittenden  Ihvre  weri-  iweiity  four  other  sign- 
ers to  this  agreemenl,  and,  so  far  as  history 
has  been  able  to  indicate,  it  was  solemnly  kept. 

i'liis  Willianv  Chitlendi-n  had  several  ciiil- 
dren  born  to  him  in  I'".nglaiul.  His  wife  was 
Joanna  Slu'iffe,  whose  sister  Dorothy  was  the 
wife  of  Rev.  Henry  Whitfield,  the  first  minis- 
ter ,ind  ,1  leading  nu'inber  of  the  (luiifonl 
Colony.  'I'he  date  of  William  Chittenden's 
sixth  child's  birth  is  upon  the  C.iiilford  record, 
as  of  November  15,  id.p).  T'l'bruary  1,  1660, 
he  liieil.  He  was  undoubtedly  tlie  progenitor 
ot  the  oilier  families  of  his  name  in  the  United 
States,  and  tiie  Chittendens  of  Oiu-ida  and 
Jefferson  county  undoubtedly  siirang  from 
this  Stock. 

Joseph.  Chittenden,  son  of  Joseph,  who  was 
i!esceiuk\l  iii  a  direct  line  from  the  original 
William,  w.is  aged  9J  when  lie  died,  .April  7, 
1794.  Lucy,  his  daughter,  !)orn  at  Ciuilford 
(Ictober  8,  1736,  married  Mel/.ar  Kowler, 
March  10,  1 76.S.  lie  was  the  ]>rogenitoi  ol 
the  I'owler  family  in  Jefferson  county,  known 
so  well  at  Clayton,  and  represented  in  tiiis 
history  by  the  biographical  sketch  of  John 
Fowler  antl  his  brother  Mel/..ir,  this  latter 
being  the  f.ither  of  Mrs.  Nettie  V.  McCor- 
mick.  'This  family  and  the  l'',sselstyns  are 
related  through  the  fact  that  Anson  Ciiit- 
tenden, born  December  18,  1768  (s;>n  of 
the  abi.ve-named  Lucy  Fowler),  married 
Maria  Esselstyn,  and  in  that  way  the  Fowlers, 
Esselstyns  and  Chittenden  families  of  Jeffer- 
son county  are  related  to  one  anotiier  by  mar- 
riage. 


LA  SALLE. 

In    i64_?,   at    Rouen,   in    France,  was   born  latter  affix   being  the   name  of  .an   estate  near 

Robert   Cavalier,  better   known  by  the  desig-  Rouen,  belonging  to  the  Cavaliers.     His  edu- 

nafion   of  La  Salle.      His   name    in    full    was  cation  was  liberal,  and  he  early  manfested  the 

Repi'-koliert  Cavalier,  Sieur  de  la  S.:lle  —  the  traits  which  afterwards  made  him  so  illustrious. 


les  VVilliiiii\ 
otiicr  si);n- 

as  histoiA 
I'liiiily  krpt. 
•voral  clul- 
is  wifi-  was 
lliy  was  till- 
fiisl  ininis- 
f  Ciiiiiford 
liittcndcn's 
ord  rc-conl, 
iry  I,  1660, 

l)rr)gcnil()r 
the  United 
>iu'iil;i  and 
iianj^    from 

h,  wlio  was 
he  original 
■d,  April  7, 
It  (luilford 
ar  l-'owlcr, 
()>;i'nit()i  ol 
nty,  known 
ted    in    tins 

1    of  John 

this  laltrt 
.  MiCor- 

Istyns  arc 
ns.on   ("hit- 

S  (s;.n  of 
married 

e  I'owlers, 
of  Jeffer- 

er  by  mar- 


rstati!  near 
His  edu- 
ifested  the 
illustrious. 


/.A    S A  1.1.1-:. 


201J 


He  was  a  (Tatholir  in  faith,  and  a  member  of  em  New  York,  who  had  already,  notwithstand- 

the  order  of  Jesuits.     He  had  an  eider  brother  in|j;  their  other  vast   possessions  in   America, 

in  C^'ln'.da,  and  this  fad  doid)tless  sha|)ed  his  he^an   to  feel  a  desire  to  jxisscss  (>ana(hi,  and 

destines,  for  in  the  spring  of  1666,  in  his  2  ^1  thus  extend  their  sway — ;is  it  is  seen  to  day — 

vear,  we  find  him  in  Canada,  wiiere  tlie  Semi-  from    Newfoundland   to  the  Northern    I'arific 

nary  vif  St.  Sidpire,  a  <or|)oration  of   French  .and  Areti<;   Oceans.      In    F,a   SalK.    they   pcr- 

priests.  had  already  made  a  settlement    nntUr  ceived  ,1  youn^  ni.m  of  fine  appearance,  ca^vr 


rUK   LIIKVAI.IKK    l.A    SALLE. 


very  extensive  hmded  and  proprietary  grants 
from  the  French  king.  These  priests  were 
in  great  terror  continually  from  the  Iroquois 
Indians,  who  had  lately  been  severely  chastised 
by  Coursell,  the  Governor  of  Canada,  and 
theii  hate  was  unbounded  against  the  French, 
stimulated,  doubtless,  by  the  English  in  East- 


for  just  such  an  et^gagement  as  these  priests 
desired  to  make,  whit  h  was  U)  procure  a  man 
of  energy  and  nulitary  capacity  who  would 
lead  any  body  of  armed  men  they  could  raise 
to  defend  Montreal,  and  the  settlements  there- 
abouts, from  the  dreaded  Iroquois.  They 
gave  La  Salle  a  large  tract  of  land  nine  miles 


2IO 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


i» 


above  Montreal,  their  actual  outpost  of  civil- 
ization, which  is  now  known  as  La  Chine, 
above  the  great  rapids  of  that  name.  La 
Salle  entered  upon  the  improvement  of  his 
large  domain,  and  began  to  sell  his  acres  to 
such  as  he  could  induce  to  join  him. 

That  this  young  man  had  come  to  Canada 
with  a  settled  purpose  in  view,  now  began  to 
be  apparent.  He  began  to  study  the  Indian 
dialects.  Hemmed  in  as  he  was  by  the  great 
and  apparently  interminable  forests  which 
surrounded  the  palisade  he  had  erected  for 
defense  against  an  Indian  attack,  his  fertile 
mind  went  beyond  his  narrow  environment, 
beyond  even  the  great  river  which  roared  and 
fretted  upon  one  side  of  his  domain,  and 
soared  westward  and  southward  towards  an 
easier  way  to  China  and  Japan  than  had  as  yet 
been  attained.  So  imperfect  at  that  time  were 
even  educated  people's  ideas  as  of  the  earth's 
geography,  that  La  Salle  did  not  understand 
that  the  countries  his  enterprising  mind  would 
reach  were  upon  the  other  side  of  the  globe, 
thousands  of  miles  away.  On  one  occasion 
he  was  visited  by  a  band  of  the  Sereca  Iro- 
quois, who  told  him  of  a  river  called  the  Ohio, 
rising  in  their  country,  which  flowed  south- 
ward into  the  sea.  La  Salle  at  once  conceived 
the  idea  that  this  great  river  must  needs  flow 
into  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  thus  lie  could 
find  what  his  soul  was  on  fire  to  obtain  —  a 
western  passage  to  China.  His  resolution  was 
soon  formed.  Obtaining,  first,  the  consent  of 
the  governors  of  the  seminary  to  the  enterprise 
he  had  in  hand,  he  sold  to  them  his  lands  near 
La  Chine,  in  order  to  raise  needed  money  for 
his  enterprise,  the  whole  expense  of  which 
was  to  be  borne  by  himself.  He  purchased 
four  large  canoes,  and  engaged  fourteen  men. 
On  the  6th  of  July,  1670,  he  set  out  upon  his 
double  expedition  for  exploration  and  the 
purchase  of  furs  from  the  Indians.  We  can- 
not follow  his  footsteps  with  the  pertinacity  of 
Parkman,  whose  excellent  history  is  before  us, 
and  can,  at  the  best,  only  generalize  the  sub- 
sequent career  of  this  g^eat  explorer. 

Thirty-five  days  after  leaving  La  Chine,  they 
reached  Irondequoit  Bay,  on  the  south  side  of 
Lake  Ontario.     Here  they  remained  a  month 


or  more,  and  on  the  24th  of  September  were  at 
an  Indian  village  only  a  few  miles  north  of 
the  present  city  of  Hamilton.  These  Indians 
proved  more  friendly  than  those  upon  the 
south  shore  of  the  lake,  and  promised  to  show 
La  Salle  a  more  direct  road  to  the  Ohio.  It 
was  here  he  met  Louis  Joliet,  a  young  man 
of  about  his  own  age,  and  also  an  explorer. 
He  had  come  from  the  southwest,  the  very 
region  La  Salle  was  striving  to  reach.  Palon 
had  sent  Joliet  to  exi)iore  the  copper  mines 
of  Lake  Superior.  This  meeting  caused  a 
change  of  La  Salle's  plans,  for  Joliet  showed 
him  a  map  of  the  region  he  himself  had  trav- 
ersed, including  Lake  Superior  and  the  Grand 
River,  Step  by  step  La  Salle  moved  west- 
ward, spending  much  time  with  the  Indians, 
and  in  1870-71  he  had  embarkeu  on  Lake 
Erie,  descended  the  Detroit  to  Lake  Huron, 
coasted  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan,  passed 
the  straits  of  Mackinaw,  afterwards  reaching 
a  river  with  a  southwestern  flow  (the  Illinois), 
which  took  him  into  the  Mississippi,  and  he 
may  be  said  to  have  been  the  first  white  man 
upon  that  mighty  affluent  in  its  upper  region. 
It  is  claimed  by  some  that  he  also  discovered 
the  Ohio;  but  if  so,  he  never  descended  it  as 
farasits  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  He  un- 
doubtedly preceded  Joliet,  but  both  La  Salle 
and  Frontenac,  his  ardent  supporter,  believed, 
as  late  as  1672,  that  the  Mississippi  flowed  di- 
rectly south  into  the  Gulf  of  California,  and 
that  it  thus  afforded  in  reality  a  direct  connect- 
ing link  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  across  which 
they  well  knew  were  China  and  Japan. 

Circumscribed  as  our  limits  are,  we  are  un- 
able to  follow  La  Salle  much  further.  Park- 
man  represents  him  as  a  man  of  extraordinary 
determination,  full  of  virile  vigor,  with  a  stal- 
wart frame,  and  with  so  enlarged  an  intelligence 
that  the  Jesuit  Fathers  were  afraid  of  him. 
They  called  him  visionary,  and  unstable,  and 
such  they  have  always  designated  those  who 
were  not  loyal  to  their  teachings  or  brought 
fully  under  their  influence. 

In  Frontenac,  however,  the  Cavalier  de  la 
Salle  had  an  uncompromising  and  devoted 
friend.  Thus  far  his  dream  had  been  of  a 
short  route  to  China;  but  when  he  saw  the 


COUNT  FRONTENAC. 


211 


iber  wereat 
:s  north  of 
ese  Indians 

upon  the 
ed  to  show 
i  Ohio.  It 
^oung  man 
I  explorer, 
t,  the  very 
:h.  Palon 
ipcr  mines 
[  caused  a 
iet  showed 
■  had  trav- 
the  Grand 
)ved  west- 
e  Indians, 
i  on  Lake 
ke  Huron, 
;an,  passed 
s  reaching 
le  Illinois), 
pi,  and  he 
white  man 
per  region, 
discovered 
landed  it  as 
}i.  He  un- 

h  La  Salle 
r,  believed, 

flowed  di- 
fornia,  and 
ct  connect- 
ross  which 
)an. 

we  are  un- 
er.  Park- 
racrdinary 
vith  a  stal- 
ntelligence 
d  of  him. 
stable,  and 
those  who 
)r  brought 

alier  de  la 
d  devoted 
been  of  a 
e  saw  the 


grand  possibilities  of  the  great  valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  with  the  illimitable  prairies  which 
we  now  see  mapped  out  into  Illinois,  Wiscon- 
sin and  Iowa,  with  the  immense  forests  that 
line  both  sides  of  the  river  below  Cairo, 
where  the  Ohio  joins  the  Mississippi,  he  re- 
linquished as  somewhat  chimerical,  or  perhaps 
postponed  for  a  time,  his  idea  of  a  short  route 
to  China.  Then  it  was  that  he  resolved  to 
leave  frozen  Canada  behind  him  forever,  and 
lead  a  French  civilization  into  the  great 
country  he  had  discovered.  It  was  for  him  to 
call  into  light  the  latent  riches  of  the  great 
West.  Frontenac,  with  whom  he  kept  himself 
well  allied,  favored  him  in  all  his  efforts. 
They  were  both  great  men,  and  both  deserve 
the  highest  commendation  in  history.  They 
were  both  faithful  to  their  king  and  France, 
and  their  discoveries  were  of  such  a  character 
as  to  make  every  human  being  in  America 
their  debtor. 

In  April,  1682,  after  many  adventures  and 
much  opposition  from  the  Jesuit  Fathers, 
much  struggling  with  Indian  tribes  and  pass- 
ing through  great  dangers  and  heavy  toil,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  he  had  at  last 
the  satisfaction  of  proclaiming  "  Louis  Le 
Grand,"  king  of  all  that  country  we  now  call 
Louisiana,  and  which  the  English  never  con- 
quered, but  came  peaceably  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  United  States  by  friendly  negotia- 
tion and  purchase. 

In  1683,  somewhat  broken  in  health,  he  de- 
scended to  Quebec  and  sailed  for  France. 
Arrived  at  court,  this  student  and  recluse  in 
his  youth,  but  backwoodsman  in  his  matured 
manhood,  had  to  encounter  the  risks  of  a  pre- 
sentation to  Royalty  and  to  make  headway 
against  the  intrigues  and  jealousies  which 
always  surround -a  king.  Louis  XIV,  how- 
ever, appreciated  him,  but  the  best  that  could 
be  done  for  him  was  to  give  him  a  divided 


command  in  America,  which  he  was  to  share 
with  Beaujen,  the  jealous  and  incompetent. 
On  July  i8th,  1684,  he  wrote  to  "his  most 
honored  mother  "  that  he  was  about  to  sail 
with  four  vessels  and  four  hundred  men.  This 
voyage  to  America  was  principally  passed  in 
disputations  with  Beaujen,  and  when  they 
landed  at  St.  Domingo,  more  than  half  of  the 
people  on  the  vessel  were  prostrated  with 
fever,  among  them  being  La  Salle.  He  soon, 
recovered,  however.  Proceeding  upon  their 
journey  they  disembarked  at  Matagorda  Bay, 
thinking  it  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. Here  the  Amaible,  the  ship  which  con- 
tained nearly  all  their  provisions,  was  wrecked. 
As  we  have  only  imperfectly  followed  him 
thus  far,  and  have  only  but  slightly  sketched 
the  character  of  this  great  man,  we  must  make 
short  work  of  the  matters  that  led  up  to  his 
death.  While  upon  a  journey  of  exploration, 
anxiously  desiring  to  better  the  condition  of 
the  party  whom  he  was  trying  to  lead  out  of 
trouble,  as  Parkman  graphically  expresses  it, 
"  a  shot  was  fired  from  the  grass  instantly  fol- 
l(;wed  by  another,  which  pierced  through  his 
brain,  and  La  Salle  dropped  dead."  Doubt- 
less he  was  killed  by  a  wretch  who  had  be- 
come disobedient  and  insolent,  and  whom  La 
Salle  had  been  compelled  to  rebuke.  Thus 
died  at  the  early  age  of  forty-three,  Robert 
Cavelier  de  la  Salle,  one  of  the  greatest  men 
of  his  age,  and  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of 
the  explorers  whose  names  live  in  history. 

His  firmness  and  his  courage  would  have 
left  a  more  marked  impression  upon  his  time, 
and  he  would  have  been  better  able  to  com- 
pletely carry  out  his  grand  plans  of  creat- 
ing in  America  a  New  France,  had  he  been 
less  imperious  and  haughty  in  his  manner,  and 
less  harsh  to  those  under  his  command,  which 
at  last  drew  u[)on  him  an  implacable  hatred, 
and  caused  his  death.  j.  a.  h. 


COUNT  FRONTENAC 


Was  perhaps  the  most  remarkable  man  ever 
representing  the  court  of  France  in  the  new 
world.     From  very  unpromising  beginnings. 


he  rose  equal  to  every  emergency  that  con- 
fronted him.  His  whole  career  was  one  of 
conflict,  sometimes  petty  and  personal,  some- 


212 


A   SOU  y  EN  IK  OF   THE  ST.   LA  IV HENCE  RIVER. 


%* 


times  involving  the  greatest  consequences. 
Under  Frontenac  occurred  the  first  serious 
collision  between  England  and  France  in 
America,  which  may  be  said  to  have  been 
the  opening  of  a  grand  scheme  of  military 
occupation,  designed  to  hold  in  check  the 
industrial  efforts  of  the  English  colonies.  All 
his  later  energies  were  directed  to  making  that 
scheme  possible-  The  contemporaneous  his- 
tory of  those  times,  so  ably  prepared  by  Park- 
man,  shows  how  valiantly  New  France  battled 


newly-wedded  pair  was  short.  The  wife's 
love  soon  changed  to  aversion,  which  con- 
tinued even  after  the  birth  of  her  son. 

Count  Frontenac  came  of  an  ancient  and 
noble  race,  said  to  have  been  of  Basque  origin. 
At  the  age  of  fifteen  the  young  Louis  showed 
a  decided  passion  for  the  life  of  a  soldier. 
He  served  in  Holland  under  the  Prince  oi 
Orange.  He  was  at  the  siege  of  Hesdin.  He 
was  at  Arras  and  at  Aire,  as  well  as  at  ("al- 
lioure  and   Perpignan.     At    twenty-three   he 


COUNT   FRONTENAC. 


against  a  fate  which  her  own  lack  of  organiz- 
ing capacity  made  inevitable.  The  drama 
was  a  great  and  significant  one,  enacted 
amidst  untamed  forests,  largely  by  me'i  who 
had  been  reared  in  France,  and  some  of  them 
favorite  courtiers  of  the  French  king.  The 
wife  of  Count  Frontenac  was  Anne  de  la 
Grange-Trianon.  She  was  born  at  Versailles, 
and  grew  up  a  favorite  companion  of  Madem- 
ioselle  de  Montpensier,  the  favorite  grand- 
daughter of  Henry  IV.  She  was  married  to 
Frontenac  in    1648.     The   happiness  of   the 


was  Colonel  of  the   Normandy  regiment,  and 
commanded  it  in  the  Italian  campaign. 

In  1673  he  received  the  appointment  of 
Governor  and  Lieutenant-General  for  the 
king  in  all  New  France.  Notwithstanding  all 
his  ability  as  a  soldier,  it  was  court  gossip  that 
he  was  sent  to  America  to  relieve  him  from 
the  unhappy  ;iations  he  was  known  to  main- 
tain with  his  wife,  whose  temper  was  outrage- 
ous, carrying  herself  with  such  a  high  head 
that  her  best  friend,  Mademioselle  de  Mont- 
pensier, was  obliged  to  dispense  with  her  ser- 


CO  V  N  r  FRON  TEN  A  C. 


2T^ 


■)! 


vices  as  one  of  her  maids  of  honor.  Madam 
Krontenac  declined  to  accompany  her  husband 
across  the  sea. 

Frontenac  was  fifty-two  years  of  age  when 
he  landed  at  Quebec.  Parkraan  says  that 
"  had  nature  disposed  him  to  melancholy, 
there  was  much  in  his  position  to  awaken  it. 
A  man  of  courts  and  camps,  he  was  banished 
to  the  ends  of  the  earth,  among  savage  hordes 
and  half-reclaimed  forests.  He  exchanged 
the  splendors  of  St.  Jermain  and  Versailles 
for  a  stern  gray  rock,  haunted  by  somber 
priests,  rugged  merchants  and  traders,  blank- 
eted Indians  and  wild  bush-rangers."  It  was 
his  tu  see  that  Quebec  should  be  made  the 
capital  of  a  great  empire,  which  .should  be 
trib  itary  to  distant  France.  He  took  an  ac- 
tive interest  in  all  the  duties  of  his  new  position. 
It  was  a  strange  freak  of  his  that  he  s'- juld 
administer  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  every  per- 
son in  Quebec.  On  the  23d  of  October, 
1672,  what  was  known  as  the  "Three  Es- 
tates of  Canada"  were  convoked  with 
considerable  pomp.  To  these  he  admin: v 
tered  the  oath,  and  then  the  assembly  was 
dissolved.  This  very  act,  is,  in  brief,  a  strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  French  colonial  rule  in 
Canada.  It  was  a  government  cf  excellent 
intentions,  but  of  the  most  aibitrary  methods. 
Frontenac  unwisely  set  himself  against  the 
prevailing  democratic  current.  The  arbitrary 
government  of  a  land  like  France,  where  the 
Bourbons  who  "  learned  nothing  and  forgot 
nothing "  had  held  sway  so  long,  was  not 
adapted  to  a  new  country  where  people  from 
all  sections  had  come  to  accumulate  wealth, 
and  (as  in  all  new  countries)  were  possessed 
of  very  radical  ideas  of  personal  freedom. 

The  name  of  Frontenac  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  in  connection  with  our  own  Great 
River.  Courselle,  his  predecessor  in  the 
Governorship  of  Canada,  had  begun  at  what 
we  now  call  Kingston,  a  fortification  large 
enough  to  receive  into  its  stockade  such 
refugees  as  might  desire  to  fly  to  a  place  of 
comparative  safety  in  the  event  of  any  Iro- 
quois invasion,  which  had  then  but  lately 
devastated  Quebec,  and  caused  the  loss  of 
hundreds    of    innocent    lives.       Frontenac's 


attention  was  soon  directed  to  this  beginning 
of  a  fort,  and  he  was  fortunate  in  making  the 
acijuaintance  of  a  young  man  who  Iiad  been 
in  the  employ  of  the  French  priests  at  Que- 
bec, and  had  reached  Kingston  on  his  way 
westward  to  trade  in  furs  and  make  the  ex- 
plorations which  were  yet  to  make  him 
famous.  15y  direction  of  Frontenac,  La 
Salle  had  previously  gone  to  Onondaga,  the 
political  center  of  the  Iroquois,  and  invited 
the  great  men  of  that  nation  to  a  council  on 
the  Bay  of  Quinte.  Before  setting  out.  La 
Salle  had  sent  the  new  Governor  a  map 
recommending  as  a  site  for  the  proposed  fort 
the  point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cataraqui,  now 
occupied  by  the  present  grand  old  historic 
city  of  Kingston.  Frontenac  ascended  the 
St.  Lawrence  quite  leisurely,  with  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  canoes  and  finir  hundred 
men.  Parkman  says  :  "  Soon  they  reached 
the  Thousand  Islands,  and  their  light  flotilla 
glided  in  long  line  among  those  watery  laby- 
rinths, by  rocky  islets,  where  perhaps  some 
lonely  pine  towered  like  a  mast  against  the 
sky  ;  by  sun-scorched  crags,  where  the  brown 
lichens  crisped  in  the  parching  glare  ;  by  deep 
dells,  shady  and  cool,  rich  in  rank  ferns, 
and  sponges,  dark  green  mosses  ;  by  still 
cove,  where  the  water-lilies  lay  like  snow- 
flakes  on  their  broad,  flat  leaves,  till  at  length 
they  neared  their  goal,  and  the  glistening 
bosom  of  Lake  Ontario  opened  on  their 
sight." 

This  grand  flotilla,  piloted  by  Indians  in 
their  birch  canoes,  entered  ihe  broad  water, 
passing  along  the  shores  so  familiar  now  as 
the  site  of  Port  Henry  on  one  side,  and  the 
"  West  Point  of  Canada,"  upon  the  other, 
reaching  at  last  the  point  of  land  where  the 
artillery  barracks  now  stand,  at  the  western 
end  of  Cataraqui  bridge.  Here  they  all  dis- 
embarked, and  here  were  subsequently  laid, 
broad  and  massive,  the  foundation  of  what  was 
subsequently  named  Fort  Frontenac  —  not  so 
named  by  the  Governor  himself,  but  by  the 
engineer  in  charge  of  the  work.  [See  pp.  35, 
211.] 

It  is  at  this  point  that  La  Salle  comes 
prominently  into  public  notice,  especially  as 


214 


A   SOUVEMR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


!»• 


the  friend  of  Frontenac,  whose  cause  he  haa 
espoused  at  Quebec  during  the  famous  quar- 
rels 'letween  the  new  Governor  and  the 
priest.,,  whom  we  describe  elsewhere  as  med- 
dlesome and  querulous. 

It  is  a  curious  historical  fact  that  the  old 
stone  fort  Frontenac  was  built  by  La  Salle 
with  his  own  money,  he  having  been  sent  to 
France  by  Frontenac  with  letters  of  the  high- 
est recommendation,  and  the  King  had  made 
to  him  a  grant  of  the  then  fort  (a  mere  stock- 
ade) a  tract  of  land  of  four  leagues  in  front 
and  half  a  league  in  depth,  including  the 
neighboring  islands.  In  consideration  of  this 
rich  grant,  La  Salle  completed  the  fort,  armed 
it  at  his  own  expense,  and  maintained  it  until 
near  the  time  of  his  death,  when  it  reverted  to 
the  King,  as  did  all  his  great  tract  of  land,  if 
we  are  correctly  informed. 

Count  Frontenac  was  too  independent  and 
able  a  man  to  submit  quietly  to  the  opposi- 
tion of  the  priests,  who  claimed  by  both 
their  rights  of  seigneurage  and  of  their  holy 
office,  to  interfere  with  his  authority.  The 
most  violent  of  these  he  arrested  and  con- 
fined in  prison,  and  was  in  the  end  sustained 
by  his  King,  the  quarrel  having  been  referred 
to  France  for  final  settlement.  Our  space,  as 
in  the  case  of  La  Salle,  does  not  permit  us  to 
more  than  glance  at  some  of  the  more  leading 
traits  and  performances  of  Frontenac,  whose 
abilities  were  marked  and  actively  developed 
in  the  new  field  he  had  entered  upon.  But 
there  was  jealousy  between  Quebec  and  Mon- 
treal, promoted  by  rival  fur  dealers  ;ind  shared 
in  more  or  less  by  the  meddling  |,riests,  whose 
fingers  were  in  everybody's  pie,  and  the  result 
was  that  in  the  end  Frontenac  was  recalled  by 
his  king.  For  seven  years  he  was  idling 
around  the  French  court.  But  he  had  power- 
ful friends,  and  his  wife,  who  seems  to  have 
been  more  affectionate  when  he  was  under  a 


cloud  than  when  his  word  was  law  and  his 
success  apparently  assured,  became  his  most 
powerful  intrigante  at  the  French  court. 

At  last  the  King  perceived  that  he  had 
made  a  mistake  in  recalling  Frontenac,  matters 
in  Canada  having  gone  from  bad  to  worse, 
until  at  last  his  patience  was  exhausted,  and 
he  asked  Frontenac  to  again  accept  the  gov- 
ernorship. The  Count  was  then  seventy  years 
of  age,  but  he  was  tired  of  inaction  and  of 
the  petty  jealousies  of  the  court  of  P'rance, 
and  finally  accepted  the  appointment. 

We  have  not  space  to  follow  him  further  in 
his  adventurous  career.  He  returned  to 
Quebec,  but  Louis  XIV  had  already  entered 
upon  his  decline  from  being  the  first  monarcli 
of  Europe.  William  of  Orange  was  coming 
to  the  front  in  England,  and  before  his  judi- 
cious plans  and  energetic  management,  France 
was  soon  to  be  relegated  to  an  inferior  position, 
to  lose  her  possessions  in  Canada,  and,  save 
her  ever-faithful  Louisiana,  to  give  up,  one  by 
one,  all  she  held  in  America.  But  the  contest 
was  not  an  uneventful  one,  though  the  end 
was  inevitable  from  the  first. 

In  November,  1698,  Frontenac,  worn  down 
by  many  arduous  labors,  and  in  his  seventy- 
eighth  year,  was  taken  violently  ill.  On  the 
28th  of  that  month  he  died,  in  full  possession 
of  all  his  faculties. 

As  will  be  seen,  the  portrait  of  this  distin- 
guished man,  whose  name  must  forever  be  in- 
separably connected  with  our  Great  River, 
was  copied  from  a  drawing  made  as  he  lay  in 
his  coffin.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  faithful  por- 
traiture, and  we  are  indebted  for  it,  as  well  as 
for  that  of  La  Salle,  to  Dr.  Neilson,  Deputy 
Surgeon-General  of  Canada,  a  ripe  scholar,  a 
gallant  officer,  an  accomplished  historian  and 
archaeologist,  and  a  true  gentleman.  [See  his 
biographical  sketch,  p.  201.]  J.  a.  h. 


^OkT 


j^ 


iw  and  his 
e  his  most 
:ourt. 

at  he  had 
lac,  matters 
,  to  worse, 
austed,  and 
pt  the  gov- 
venty  years 
ion  and  of 
of  France, 
int. 

1  further  in 
eturned  to 
idy  entered 
St  monarch 
vas  coming 
re  his  judi- 
ent,  France 
or  position. 
I,  and,  save 
:  up,  one  by 
the  contest 
jh  the  end 

worn  down 

lis  seventy- 

1.     On   the 

possession 

this  distin- 
■ever  be  in- 
•eat  River, 
IS  he  lay  in 
lithful  por- 
as  well  as 
on.  Deputy 
;  scholar,  a 
storian  and 
[See  his 

J.   A.  H. 


POETIC   ASSOCIATIONS  OF  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


CANADIAN  BOAT  SONGS. 


IT^EVOST  early  travellers  speak  of  the  songs 
l^^l  with  which  the  Canadian  voyageurs 
were  accustomed  to  beguile  their  labors  at  the 
oar,  and  of  the  impressions  they  left  upon 
the  memory.  These  are  now  entirely  unknown 
upon  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  are 
still  heard  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Ottawa,  and  in  the  regions  not  yet  invaded 
by  the  power  of  steam. 

These  souvenirs  of  travel  belong  to  a  period 
in  society  that  appears  to  be  passing  away, 
and  like  the  popular  songs  of  all  countries, 
that  perpetuate  their  historical  legends  and 
the  traditions  of  ancestors,  they  are  unknown 
in  cities,  and  are  found  only  in  rural  life.  In 
tliis  instance,  they  may  be  often  traced  back 
to  an  European  origin,  and  are  of  the  kind 
that  tend  to  keep  alive  the  poetic  associations 
of  a  gay  and  happy  peasantry,  rather  than  the 
historical  memories  of  a  great  and  powerful 
people.  In  fact  there  appear  to  be  very 
little  sense,  much  less  a  connection  of  narra- 
tive, in  any  of  these  popular  songs  of  these 
people,  and  the  most  that  can  be  said  of  many 
of  them  is,  that  they  were  a  jolly  string  of 
words  without  rhyme  or  sense,  with  frequent 
repetitions,  and  a  joyous  refrain. 

In  their  incoherent  stanzas  and  their  repeti- 
tions,they  resembled  in  some  respects  the  slave- 
songs  of  the  south  before  the  late  war,  al- 
though wholly  devoid  of  that  religious  senti- 
ment which  formed  a  feature  in  many  of  the 
social  songs  of  the  slaves. 

Some  years  since,  Mr.  Ernst  Gagnon,  of  Que- 
bec, prepared  a  collection  of  these  Canadian 
songs.  Il  contains  only  those  most  commonly 
known,    for   according  to    this   author,  "  ten 


large  volumes  would  scarcely  contain  them." 
He  further  remarks,  that  as  a  general  thing 
there  is  nothing  indelicate  or  wanton  in  these 
popular  melodies,  and  that  even  in  some  of 
this  description  that  can  be  traced  back  to 
French  origin,  the  objectionable  features  have 
been  dropped.  In  other  cases,  the  change  in 
these  airs  has  been  so  great  that  their  origin 
can  scarcely  be  traced  back  beyond  the  period 
of  emigration,  and  in  others  they  are  unmis- 
takably and  entirely  Canadian. 

We  will  limit  our  notice  of  these  songs  to 
two  or  three  of  the  most  popular  and  well- 
known,  and  of  these  the  one  first  given  is 
altogether  the  most  important  : 

"  A  La  Claire  Fontaine." 

Says  Mr.  Gagnon: — "  From  the  little  seven- 
year-old  child  to  the  gray-haired  old  man, 
every  body  in  Canada  knows  this  song. 
There  is  no  French  Canadian  song  that  in 
this  respect  will  compare  \.  .th  it,  although 
the  melody  is  very  primitive,  and  it  has  little 
to  interest  the  musician,  beyond  its  great 
popularity." 

It  is  often  sung  to  a  dancing  tune,  and  is 
even  brought  into  the  fantasies  of  a  concert- 
It  is  known  in  France,  and  is  said  to  be  of 
Norman  origin,  although  M.  Marmier  thinks 
it  came  from  La  Franche  Comtfe.  and  M. 
Rathery  thinks  it  was  brought  from  Hretagne, 
under  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  In  France 
it  has  nearly  the  same  words,  but  with  this 
difference  —  that  the  French  song  expresses 
the  sorrow  of  a  young  girl  at  the  loss  of  her 
friend  Pierre,  while  the  Canadian  lad  wastes 
his  regrets  upon  the  rose  that  his  mistress  re- 


2l6 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


\* 


jected.  The  air  as  sung  in  France  is  aliugether 
different.  Some  years  since  this  song  in  its 
Canadian  dress  was  brought  out  in  all  the 
principal  theatres  of  Paris  with  immense  suc- 
cess. This  led  to  a  distressing  burlesque  of 
"  La  Claire  Fontaine,  as  they  sing  it  in  Paris." 

On  the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales  to  America  in  i860,  a  little  incident  oc- 
curred on  board  the  "Hero,"  on  the  last 
evening  before  the  landing  at  Quebec,  that 
brought  this  song  and  its  air  into  notice  upon 
a  much  wider  field  than  before.  Several 
prominent  Canadians  had  come  on  board,  and 
as  the  evening  wore  away,  Mr.  Cartier,  a  high 
official  in  the  Colonial  government,  stepped 
forward,  and  began  to  sing  this  song  in  a  clear 
and  melodious  voice. 

The  chorus  was  easily  picked  up  by  the 
listners,  and  after  once  hearing  it,  a  few  voices 
joined  in  —  at  first  in  subdued  and  gentle 
murmur,  but  at  each  return  more  clear  and 
strong,  until  at  the  end,  the  whole  party  were 
in  full  accord,  and  singing  with  enthusiasm 
the  oft-repeated  declaration  — 

"  II  ya  loHKtepas  que  je  t'aime, 
Jamais  je  ne  t'  oublerai." 

From  this  time  onward  till  the  end  of  his 
journey  in  America,  this  simjjle  melody  became 
the  favorite  piece,  or  was  brought  in  as  an  ac- 
companiment to  other  music,  at  receptions 
and  parties,  and  in  short,  upon  all  occasions 
wherever  music  was  in  order,  and  for  this 
reason  it  is  now  better  known  outside  of 
Canada  than  all  the  rest  of  French-Canadian 
songs  put  together. 

The  following  not-very-literal  English  trans- 
lation of  this  chanson,  has  in  one  sense  more 
poetic  merit  than  the  original,  inasmuch  as  it  has 
a  rhyme,  to  wliich  the  French  does  not  pretend- 
As  by  the  crj'Stal  fount  I  strayed, 
On  which  the  d.incing  moonbeams  played. 
The  water  seemed  so  clear  and  bright, 
I  bathed  myself  in  its  delight  ; 

I  loved  thee  from  the  hour  we  met, 
And  never  can  that  love  forget. 

The  water  seemed  so  clear  and  bright, 
I  bathed  myself  in  its  delight; 
The  nightingale  above  my  head. 
As  sweet  a  stream  of  music  shed, 

I  loved  thee.  i-ic.  ,        . 


The  niglitingale  above  my  head, 
As  sweet  a  stream  of  music  shed, 
Sing,  nightingale,  thy  heart  is  glad. 
But  I  could  weep,  for  mine  is  sad  ! 
I  loved  thee,  etc. 

Sing,  nightingale,  thy  heart  is  glad. 
But  I  could  weep,  for  mine  is  sad  ! 
For  I  have  lost  my  lady  fair, 
And  she  has  left  me  to  despair  ! 
I  loved  thee,  etc. 

For  I  have  lost  my  lady  fair. 
And  she  has  left  me  to  despair, 
For  that  I  gave  not,  when  she  spoke. 
The  rose  that  from  its  tree  I  broke. 
I  loved  thee,  etc. 

For  that  I  gave  not,  when  she  spoke. 
The  rose  that  from  its  tree  I  broke, 
I  wish  the  rose  were  on  its  tree. 
And  my  beloved  again  with  me. 
I  loved  thee,  etc. 

I  wish  the  rose  were  on  its  tree, 
And  my  beloved  again  with  me,  < 

Or  that  the  tree  itself  were  cast 
Into  the  sea,  before  this  passed. 
I  loved  thee,  etc 

Of  the  above  chanson,  Marmier  observes-. 
"As  you  notice,  there  is  neither  verse  nor 
rhyme,  nor  anything  else  besides  an  outland- 
ish ineasure  of  syllables ;  *  *  *  *  Yet 
these  rude  couplets,  sung  in  the  rudest  of 
inelodies,  have  in  them  an  iudescribable  mel- 
ancholy that  penetrates  the  soul." 

An  English  writer  who  published  his  observ- 
ations in  1864,  gives  one  of  these  songs,  pre- 
faced with  the  following  descriptive  account 
of  its  execution: 

"  The  French  Canadian  boatmen  seem  to 
be  a  happy  devil-may  care  sort  of  fellows,  who 
did  not  allow  the  thought  for  to-morrow  to 
interfere  in  any  way  with  the  enjoyment  of 
to-day.  They  sing  in  concert  very  plaintively; 
and  some  of  their  favorite  ballads  are  highly 
pathetic.  One  day  I  was  prevailed  upon  by 
a  friend  to  take  an  excursion  in  a  canoe, 
manned  by  half  a  dozen  of  these  thoughtless 
people.  Upon  sailing  up  the  St.  Lawrence, 
as  tney  warmed  to  their  work,  they  com- 
menced singing  the  following  chanson,  and  so 
prettily  was  it  executed,  that  the  effect  was 
most  extraordinary: 


POETIC  ASSOCIATIONS  OF   THE    THOUSAND  ISL^'NOS- 


Jt? 


ike, 

9. 

ke. 


observes-. 

verse   nor 

n  outland- 

*     Yet 

rudest  of 
)able  mel- 

lis  observ- 
ongs,  pre- 
e  account 

seem  to 

lows,  who 

norrow  to 

yment  of 

aintively; 

ire  highly 

upon  by 

a  canoe, 

oughtless 

awrence, 

ey  com- 

n,  and  so 

ffert  was 


The  following   rather   free   translation   has 
been  furnished  us : 

With  hearts  as  wild 

As  joyous  child, 
Lived  Rhoda  of  the  mountain  ; 

Her  only  wisii 

To  seeic  the  fish 
In  the  waters  of  the  fountain. 

Uli,  the  violet,  white  and  blue  ! 

The  streum  is  deep. 
The  banks  are  steep, 
Down  in  the  Hood  fell  she. 
When  there  rode  by 

Right  K^ll'intb'' 
Three  barons  of  high  degree. 

Uh,  the  violets,  white  and  blue  ! 

"  Oh.  tell  us,  fair  maid," 

They  each  one  said, 
"  Your  reward  to  the  venturing  knight 

Who  shall  save  your  life 

From  the  water's  strife 
By  his  arm's  unflinchiiig  might." 

Oh,  the  violet,  white  and  blue  ! 

"  Oh  !  haste  to  my  side," 

The  maiden  replied, 
"  Nor  ask  of  a  recompense  now  I 

When  safe  on  land 

Again  we  stand 
For  such  matters  is  time  enow." 

Oh,  the  violet,  white  and  blue  ! 

But  when  all  free 

Upon  the  lea 
She  found  herself  once  more. 

She  would  not  stay. 

And  sped  away 
Till  she  reached  her  cottage  door. 

Oil.  the  violets,  white  and  blue  ! 

Her  casement  by. 

That  maiden  shy 
Began  so  sweet  to  sing  ; 

Her  lute  and  voice. 

Did  e'en  rejoice, 
The  early  Mowers  of  spring 

Oh.  the  violet,  white  and  blue  I 

But  the  barons  proud 

Then  spoke  aloud  : 
"This  is  not  ihe  boon  we  desire  ; 

Your  heart  and  love, 

My  pretty  dove. 
Is  the  free  gift  we  require." 

Oh,  the  violets,  white  and  blue  ! 


"  Oh,  my  heart  so  true, 

Is  not  for  you. 
Nor  for  any  of  high  degree  ; 

1  have  pledged  my  truth 

To  an  honest  youth. 
With  a  beard  so  comely  to  see." 

Oh,  the  violet,  white  and  blue  ! 

Tom  Moore's  Boat  Song. — (1804). 

In  the  years  1803-4,  the  social  favorite  and 
graceful  writer,  Thomas  Moore,  made  a  hasty 
tour  through  the  Middle  and  Northern  States 
and  Canada.  It  would  appear  from  his  writ- 
ings,  and  it  has  been  strongly  intimated,  that 
this  visit  to  .Vmerica  was  designed  to  afford 
capital  for  satire  and  song  in  the  interest  of 
British  prejudice,  and  under  the  political  agi- 
tations of  the  day  there  can  be  no  doubt  but 
that  this  result  was  in  some  degree  realized. 

But  whatever  may  have  been  the  animus  or 
the  effect  of  his  writings,  we  may  well  afford, 
after  this  lapse  of  time,  to  forgive  him,  since 
he  has  left  us  some  verses  that  throw  a  charnx 
over  the  places  he  described,  and  impart  an 
interest,  due  to  the  smoothness  of  their  mea-^ 
sure  and  the  poetic  sentiments  which  they 
embody.  His  lyrics,  entitled  '*  The  Lake  of 
the  Disinal  Swamp,"  and  ''  The  Canadian 
Boat  Song,"  are  of  this  number.  Moore  was 
born  in  1779,  and  when  he  passed  this  way, 
in  1804,  was  therefore  about  twenty-five  years 
of  age.  He  had  already  gained  popular  noto- 
riety by  his  writings ;  and  the  extraordinary 
attentions  paid  to  him,  especially  among  En- 
glish officials  in  Canada  and  elsewhere,  gave  a 
prominence  10  his  presence  wherever  he  trav- 
elled. In  a  letter  to  his  mother,  written  soon 
after  his  passage  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from 
Niagara  in  a  sailing  vessel,  in  August,  1804, 
he  shows  liow  exceedingly  flattering  to  his 
vanity  these  attentions  were,  making  him  at 
once  satisfied  with  himself  and  with  all  the 
rest  of  mankind.      He  says  : 

"  In  my  passage  across  Lake  Ontario,  I  met  with 
the  same  poiituness  which  has  been  so  gratifying, 
and,  indeed,  convenient  to  me,  all  along  my  route. 
The  captiin  refused  to  take  what  I  know  is  always 
given,  and  begged  me  to  consider  all  my  friends  at 
included  in  the  compliment,  which  a  line  from  m» 
would  at  any  time  entitle  them  to.  Even  a  poor 
watch-maker  at  Niagara,  who  did  a  very  necessary 


2l8 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


.»« 


and  (lifllcult  job  for  me,  inMUied  I  bhould  not  think 
of  paying  him,  but  accept  it  as  the  unly  mark  of  re- 
spect he  could  pay  one  he  had  heard  so  much  of, 
but  never  expected  to  meet  with.  This  is  the  very 
nectar  of  life,  and  I  hope,  I  trust,  it  is  not  vanity  to 
which  the  cordial  owes  all  its  sweetness.  No;  it 
gives  me  a  feeling  towards  all  mankind,  which  I  am 
convinced  is  not  unamiable;  the  impulse  which  be- 
gins with  self,  spreads  a  circle  instantaneously  round 
it,  which  includes  all  the  sociabilities  and  benevo- 
lences of  the  heart." 

As  to  the  circumstances  under  which  the 
Boat  Song  was  written,  these  can  best  be 
learned  from  his  own  pen.  In  a  note  appended 
to  the  full  edition  of  his  writings,  we  find  the 
following  account : 

"  I  wrote  these  words  to  an  air  which  our  boatmen 
sung  to  us  frequently.  The  wind  was  so  unfavor- 
able that  they  were  obliged  to  row  all  the  way,  and 
we  were  five  days  in  descending  the  river  from  King- 
ston to  Montreal,  exposed  to  an  intense  sun  during 
the  day,  and  at  night  forced  to  take  shelter  from  the 
dews  in  any  miserable  huts  upon  the  banks  that 
would  receive  us.  But  the  magnificent  scenery  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  repays  all  these  difficulties.  Our 
voyageurs  had  good  voices,  and  sang  perfectly  in 
tune  together.  The  original  words  of  the  air,  to 
which  I  adapted  these  stanzas,  appeared  to  be  a 
long,  incoherent  story,  of  which  I  could  understand 
but  little  from  the  barbarous  pronunciation  of  the 
Canadians. 

"  The  stanzas  are  supposed  to  be  sung  by  those 
voyageurs  who  go  to  the  Grand  Portage  by  the 
Utawas  river." 

Et   Regimen   Cantus    Hortatur. — Quintillian. 

Faintly,  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 

Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time; 

Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim 

We'll  sing  at  St.  Ann's  our  parting  hymn. 

Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past. 

Why  should  we  yet  our  sail  unfurl  ? 

There  is  not  a  breath  the  blue  wave  to  curl  ! 

But  when  the  wind  blows  off  the  shore, 

Oh  !  sweetly  we'll  rest  on  our  weary  oar. 

Blow,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past. 

Utawa's  tide  !  this  trembling  moon 

Shall  see  us  float  over  the  surges  soon. 

Saint  of  this  green  isle  !  hear  our  prayer, 

Oh  \  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  favoring  air. 
Blow,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight's  past. 


We  have  met  with  two  translations  of 
Moore's  Boat  Song  into  French,  but  neither 
of  them  are  of  much  merit. 

Besides  these  Boat  Songs,  the  islands  pre- 
sent many  poetic  associations  that  give  to 
them  peculiar  interest.  The  late  Caleb  Lyon, 
of  Lyonsdale,  many  years  since,  published  ;i 
poem  somewhat  after  the  style  of  Byron's 
"  Isles  of  Greece,"  that  has  been  so  often  re- 
produced that  we  deem  it  proper  not  to  in- 
clude it  in  this  volume. 

The  religious  meetings  that  have  been  held 
upon  Wellesley  Island  have  given  rise  to  some 
poetic  reminiscences  of  peculiar  interest,  es- 
pecially those  relating  to  Mr.  Philip  B.  Bliss, 
whose  participation  in  the  Sunday-School  Par- 
liament, in  1876,  was  brought  sadly  to  mind 
by  the  railroad  casualty  that,  before  the  next 
year,  ended  his  life  at  Ashtabula,  Ohio.  This 
event  has  been  mule  the  subject  of  memorial 
verses  by  Miss  Winslow,  of  Brooklyn.  The 
following  are  the  opening  stanzas  of  this 
poem: 

Last  year  he  stood  amongst  us  all, 

Acknowledged  King  of  Song, 
Last  year  we  heard  his  deep  tones  fall 

The  river  side  along; 
We  saw  his  reverend  mien,  we  knew 

His  spirit  true  and  bold. 
But  of  our  singer's  inner  life 

The  half  was  never  told. 

We  heard  the  story,  as  it  flew 

On  the  western  wires  along. 
With  bated  breath  we  heard  it  true, 

God  took  our  King  of  Song  ; 
We  read  of  fiery  chariot  wheels. 

Of  wintry  waters  cold. 
But  angels  saw  the  agony- 

The  half  was  never  told. 

The  "  Mille  Ii.es"  of  Cremizie,  the 
Canadian  Poet.* 

This  poem  extends  through  more  than  fifty 
stanzas,  in    which    the  author  lets  his  fancy 


*  Joseph  Octave  Cr6mazie,  a  native  of  Lower 
Canada,  was  gifted  with  a  fine  poetic  talent,  and  pro- 
duced several  pieces  that  have  been  greatly  admired 
for  the  elegance  of  their  style,  and  the  highly  poetic 
sentiments  which  they  express. 

M.  Cr&mazie  was  a  merchant  at  Quebec,  but  prov- 
ing unsuccessful  in  business,  he  went  from  Canada 


mslations    of 
,  but  neither 

islands  prc- 
that  give  to 
:  Caleb  Lyon, 
,  published  a 
:   of   Byron's 

so  often  re- 
er  not   to  in- 

ve  been  held 
I  rise  to  some 
interest,  es- 
ilip  B.  Bliss. 
(T-School  Par- 
adly  to  mind 
ore  the  next 
Ohio.  This 
of  memorial 
oklyn.  The 
nzas    of  this 

sail, 
ones  fall 
e  knew 


true, 

IS, 

tlZIE,    THE 

ire  than  fifty 
ts  his  fancy 

ve    of    Lower 

ilent.and  pro- 

eatly  admired 

highly  poetic 

bee,  but  prov- 
from  Canada 


GEOLOGY  OF   7 HE    THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


2!9 


dwell  upon  what  he  would  do,  were  lie  a  swal- 
low. He  would  fly  to  where  the  snowflocks 
fall,  and  make  the  wildest  places  echo  to  his 
song.  He  would  visit  Spain,  where  the  almond 
blooms;  the  gilded  dome  of  Alcazar,  and  the 
Royal  Palace  where  the  Calipli  Omar  reigned; 
Cordova,  and  Old  Castile;  Leon,  with  its 
brazen  gates,  and  Seville ;  the  Escurial  and 
the  Alhambra,  and  river  banks  fragrant  witli 
opening  flowers.  He  would  view  the  city  of 
Venice,  and  the  Lions  of  St.  Mark;  listen  to 
the  serenades  of  an  Italian  summer  evening, 
and,  in  short,  explore  on  light  and  rapid  wing 
whatever  region  or  jilace  the  wild  world  offers 
—  in  Europe,  in  India,  or  in  the  land  of  the 
Nile,  that  awakens  poetic  sentiments,  displays 
pictures  of  beauty,  or  recalls  the  memory  of 
great  events. 

Having  thus  touched,  as  it  were,  a  thousand 
islands  of  interest  throughout  the  world,  he 
says: 

"  But  when  with  floods  of  liRht,  the  balmy  spring- 
time comes,  with  its  melodies,  its  mantle  iif  green 
and  its  perfumes — its  vernal  songs  with  the  morning 
sun,  and  all  the  freshness  of  awakening  life,  I  would 
return  to  my  native  skies. 

"  When  Eve  plucked  death  from  the  Tree  of  Life, 
and  brought  tears  and  sorrow  upon  earth,  Adam 
was  driven  out  into  the  world  to  mourn  with  her, 
and  taste  from  the  bitter  spring  that  we  drink  to- 
day. 

"Then  angels  on  their  wings,  bore  the  silent 
eden  to  the  eternal  splicres  on  high,  and  placed  it  in 
the  heavens  —  but  in  piissing  through  space,  they 
dropped  along  the  way,  to  mark  their  course,  some 
flowers  from  the  Garden  Divine.     Thesr-  flowers  of 

to  Brazil,  and  from  thence  to  France,  and  died  at 
Havre,  January  17.  1S79. 

Mr.  Lareau,  in  his  Histoirede  la  Liiteraiurc  Cana- 
dienne,  in  speaking  of  the  style  of  this  poet,  says  : 

"There  is  something  in  Crfemazie's  talent  that  is 
found  only  in  those  of  native  genius — it  is  inspira- 
tion. By  sudden  and  passionate  flights,  he  carries 
you  into  the  highest  spheres  of  poetry  and  thought, 
lie  adorns  his  style  with  coloring  the  most  brilliant, 
and  in  his  hand  everything  is  transformed  and  ani- 
mated. He  invests  the  most  common  of  events  with 
features  that  elevate  and  magnify,  yet  in  this  exuber- 
ance of  coloring,  and  this  wealth  of  words  and  ideas, 
he  in  no  degree  impairs  the  simplicity  of  his  subject. 
The  poetic  thought  of  his  writings  is  clear  and  re- 
fined, and  his  verse  is  natural,  and  flows  from  an 
:<>'undant  source." 


changing  hues,  falling  into  the  great  river,  became 
the  Thousand  Isles  — the  paradise  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

"  The  Thousand  Isles  ;  magnificent  necklace  of 
dianuMid  and  sapphire  that  those  of  the  ancient 
world  would  have  preferred  to  the  bright  gold  of 
Ophir  !  Sublime  and  beautiful  crown  that  rests 
upon  the  aiiifjle  brow  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on  her 
throne  of  the  vast  lakes  that  display  the  tinted  rain- 
bow, and  return  the  echoes  of  thundering  Niagara  ! 
The  Thousand  Isles  —  charming  wonder  —  oasis  on 
the  sleeping  waves  —  that  which  might  be  thought  a 
(lower-basket  borne  by  a  lover's  hand  !  In  thy  pic- 
turesque retreats  I  find  naught  but  pcice  and 
happiness,  and  spend  the  tranquil  days  in  singing 
the  lays  of  a  heart  content  ! 

'  .Not  proud  Andalusia — nor  the  banks  of  Cadiz— 
nor  the  kingdom  of  the  Moors  sparkling  like  rubies 
—  nor  the  poetic  scenes  of  Florence  and  Milan  — 
nor  Rome  with  its  ancient  splendors  —  nor  Naples 
with  its  volcano —  nor  that  charmed  sea  where  Stam- 
boul  lifts  its  towers — nor  the  valesof  sorrow  where  the 
fierce  Giaours  dwell  —  nor  India  in  its  native  wealth, 
where  Para-Brahma  shines,  or  the  seas  of  verdure 
that  Kalidasa  celebrate — nor  the  land  of  the  pyra- 
mids—  nor  all  the  treasures  of  Memphis — nor  the 
rapids  of  the  Nile,  where  we  seek  and  admire  Osiris — 
shall  ever  thy  echoes  repeat  from  the  notes  of  this 
lyre  which  is  tuned  amid  these  charming  scenes." 

Geology  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 

There  is  much  geological  interest  in  the 
rock  formations  of  this  part  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  in  the  evidences  that  they  [iresent 
as  to  the  changes  that  the  earth's  surface  has 
undergone  since  the  beginning.  For  the  most 
part,  the  islands  consist  of  gneit,s  rock,  be- 
longing to  the  Laurentian  .period,  which  iiere 
form  a  connecting  link  between  the  vast  Pri- 
mary Region,  so  called,  of  Upper  Canada, 
and  an  extensive  district  of  the  same  in 
Northern  New  York.  This  gneiss  is  gener- 
ally obscurely  stratified,  but  with  much  con- 
fusion in  the  lines  of  original  deposit,  as  if 
they  had  been  softened  by  heat  and  distorted 
by  pressure,  and  the  stratification,  such  as  it 
is,  is  often  highly  inclined.  The  rock  is 
composed  largely  of  a  reddish  feldspar,  with 
variable  proportions  of  quartz  and  horn- 
blende, and  occasional  particles  of  magnetic 
iron  ore.  In  some  places  on  the  New  York 
side  it  is  found  to  contain  dykes  of  trap  and 
greenstone,  that  ramify  into  thin  veins,  as  if 


MO 


A  SOUl'KNIK  or    THE  S f.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


injected  under  j^reat  pressure,  and  in  a  |)er- 
fectly  liquid  form.  It  also  contains,  in  Jeffer- 
son and  St.  Lawrence  counties,  most  interest- 
ing crystalline  mineral  forms,  in  great  variety 
and  in  Rossie,  lead  was  formerly  mined  in  tliis 
rock  to  a  large  amount. 

Upon  one  of  the  Thousand  Islands  oppo- 
site (iananotpie,  the  gneiss  rock  is  (juarried 
for  cemetery  monuments,  which  are  sent  to 
Montre.il  for  polisliing,  and  are  thought  by 
many  to  he  as  beautiful  as  tlie  red  Scotch 
granite  for  this  use.  The  ro<  k  is  there  also 
quarried  for  paving  blocks,  and  other  uses. 

At  ('ianano(]ue,  and  at  various  places  among 
the  islands,  the  Potsdam  santlstone  occurs  in 
thick  masses,  rising  into  cliffs  fifty  feet  or 
more  above  the  river,  and  affording  a  fine 
material  for  building,  being  easily  worked 
when  freshly  quarried,  and  hardening  upon 
exposure  to  the  air.  A  little  bark  from  that 
town,  gneiss  forms  the  principal  rock,  rising 
in  naked  ridges,  with  intervening  plains  that 
indicate  the  presence  of  level  strata  of  lime- 
stone or  sandstone  beneath.  In  this  region, 
white  crystalline  limestone,  steatite  and  vari- 
ous other  minerals  occur. 

Before  reaching  Brockville,  and  for  a  long 
distance  below,  calciferous  sandstone  and  the 
older  limestones  constitute  the  only  rock  in 
situ,  and  afford  excellent  cpiarries  of  building 
stone.  These  strata  are  for  the  most  part 
level,  and  the  very  flat  region  in  Jefferson 
county,  lying  a  little  back  from  the  river,  and 
extending  several  miles  inland,  is  underlaid 
by  this  rock.  It  contains,  in  many  places, 
the  organic  remains  of  lower  forms  of  animal 
and  vegetable  life,  that  sometimes  stand  out 
in  fine  relief  upon  weathered  surfaces  of  the 
rock. 

At  Kingston,  and  at  various  points  upon 
both  shores,  and  upon  Carlton,  Wolfe.  Howe, 
Grindstone  and  other  islands,  the  Birds'-eye 
and  Black  River  limestones  occur  in  nearly 
horizontal  strata,  and  in  some  places  are  seen 
resting  directly  upon  the  gneiss,  which  comes 
to  the  surface,  here  and  there,  and  often  rises 
to  a  greater  elevation  than  the  adjacent  lime- 
stone. It  would  appear  that  at  these  places 
an  island  existed  at  the  time  when  the  sand- 


stones, elsewliere  so  abundant,  were  being  de 
posited,  and  that  the  limestones  were  formed 
directly  over  the  gneiss.  This  limestone  is 
largely  used  for  building  purposes,  at  Kings- 
ton and  eUewliere,  and  it  makes  excellent 
lime.  1' rom  the  lower  and  impure  strata  oi 
tliis  roi  k,  water-lime,  or  hydraulic  cement, 
was  formerly  made  in  Jefferson  counts 
I'hese  limestones  at  various  |)laces  cont.iin 
fossil  corals,  simnges,  shells,  and  other  or- 
ganic remains  |)e(uliar  to  the  older  Siluri.it) 
period.  The  Black  River  limestone,  in 
Watertown,  Brownville,  and  other  places,  has 
extensive  caves,  worn  by  currents  of  water  in 
tortner  times.  These  have  been  explored  to 
considerable  distances,  and  appear  to  have 
been  formed  by  the  widening  of  natural 
fissures  in  the  rock.  Their  section  is  more  or 
less  oval  in  form,  sometimes  wider  than  higli, 
and  nearly  imiting  along  the  line  of  the  fissure, 
above  and  below. 

The  broken  region,  of  which  the  Thousand 
Islands  are  a  part,  afTords  on  either  side  of 
the  river,  in  various  places,  a  number  of  pic- 
turescpie  lakes,  and  within  a  distance  of 
twenty  miles  in  JefTerson  county,  there  are  ex- 
tensive mines  of  red  hematite,  that  have  been 
wrought  for  more  than  fifty  years,  supplying 
several  iron  furnaces  in  their  vicinity,  and  a 
barge  amount  of  ore  for  exportation  to  other 
points.  Geologically,  these  iron  ores  occur  in 
thick  beds  along  the  jtmction  of  the  gneiss 
and  the  older  fossiliferous  formations,  and 
they  seem  to  extend  downward  to  an  unlim- 
ited extent. 

In  speaking  of  the  Thousand  Islands  as  a 
field  for  geological  study,  a  writer,  who  has 
taken  a  great  interest  in  this  subject,  says  : 

"One  of  the  finest  River  Archipelagoes  Oi  the 
globe,  is  tliis  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Intleei  ,  i(  Is 
almost  the  only  one  that  has  such  a  vast  nu  nljcr  uf 
islets,  all  of  rocky  formation;  high,  healthy,  wooded, 
without  muddy  or  marshy  shores;  small  enough  foi 
inexhaustible  variety  deep,  navigable  cliannels 
everywhere,  and  above  all,  the  wry  crown  and  glory 
of  the  picturesque.  ♦  »  *  The  location  is  one  of 
the  very  best  for  geological  study.  The  Laurentian 
system  is  reckoned  the  oldest  exposure,  or  among 
the  oldest,  on  the  globe.  The  granite  is  largely  com- 
posed  of   feldspar,  and  so  dilFers  widely  from  the 


GEOLOGY  OF   THE    THOUSAXD  /SLANDS. 


aai 


ere  being  dc 
were  fornml 
limestone   i^ 
es,  at   Kin^s- 
tes    excellLMi* 
lire   strata  ot 
iiilic    cement, 
son     county 
laces    cont.iiii 
nd  other  or- 
)lder  Siliiriat» 
limestone,    \\\ 
er  places,  li.is 
is  of  water  in 
1  explored  ti> 
pear  to   have 
g    of    natural 
ion  is  more  or 
ier  than  hit;li, 
of  the  fissure, 

the  Thousand 
L'ither  side   of 
umber  of  pic- 
distance    of 
there  are  ex- 
at  have  been 
rs,  supplying, 
icinity,  and  a 
ation  to  other 
ores  occur  in 
of  the  gneiss 
mations,   and 
to  an  unlim- 

Islands  as  a 
ter,  who  has 
lect,  says  : 

eiagoes  o.  the 
Indiei  ,  it  is- 
ast  nu  nljer  of 
eahhy,  wooded, 
all  enough  fui 
able  clinniieU 
rown  and  glory 
cation  is  one  of 
he  Laurentian 
iure,  or  among 
is  largely  com- 
idely  from  the 


famous  granites  u(  New  England,  in  which  horn- 
blende lorms  so  large  an  elcmt-ni,  and  which  are 
nearly  a  true  lyeniie.  The  Fot»d:ini  sandstone  liuru 
lies  directly  upon  the  granite.  Huth  show  wonder- 
fully ihc  erosion  of  waves  by  which  the  great  inland 
sea,  of  ancient  geological  ages,  wore  down  (his  p.ir- 
li.ll  outlet  to  the  sea.  Both  show,  also,  the  grinding 
and  planing  action  of  the  glacial  drift,  which  here 
wrought  Willi  enormous  power.  There  are  drift 
ttrisDor  gror>ves  here,  cut  into  this  hard  granite,  some 
of  them  showing  for  several  rods  in  length,  straight 
as  a  line,  and  as  wide  and  deep  as  half  a  hogshead 
divided  Ic'i''  1  vise  of  the  staves. 

"  A  l)lo<  k  of  granite,  as  large  as  a  small  house, 
held  fast  in  the  under  surface  of  a  moving  sheet  of 
ice,  asa  glazier's  diamond  in  its  steel  handle;  .inolher 
sheet  of  ice,  hundreds  of  feet  thick  and  thousands  of 
miles  wide,  and  creeping  onward  with  a  slow  hut 
irresistible  movement  —  what  a  glass-cutter  that! 
And  when  that  whole  sheet  of  ice  is  thickly  studded 
on  its  under  side  with  such  blocks,  great  and  small, 
we  can  get  a  conception  of  what  an  enorinoiis  lasp 
the  hand  of  Omnipotence  wielded  in  |ilaiiing  and 
polishing  all  the  upper  surface";,  especially  the 
norihurn,  western,  and  north-western  exposures  of 
these  mighty  rocks.  The  tooihinarks  ol  this  rasp 
.irc  the  glacial  stria:  of  geologists,  and  this  is  an  excel- 
lent place  to  study  them. 

"  For  half  a  mile,  fronting  on  Eel  bay,  there  is  an 
almost  continuous  frontage  of  the  glacier-planed 
locks.  At  its  western  end,  this  rocky  ridge  breaks 
down  abruptly  in  lofty  precipices  called  ilic  '  F'.ili- 
sades.'  with  a  deep,  navigable  strait  of  the  river, 
called  ;he  '  Narrows.'  Here  is  an  admirable  place  to 
study  the  cleavage  and  fracture  of  these  rocks,  and 
the  whole  is  one  of  the  finest  scenic  views  of  the 
dreat  River." 

An  anonymous  writer,  in  a  book  of  Travels 
'■  dedicated  to  the  Wanderer  by  one  of  his 
class," — but  known  to  be  John  F.  Campbell, 
of  Islay,  had  his  attention  much  attracted  by 
geological  phenomena,  and  in  noticing  glacial 
agencies,  remarks  as  follows  concerning  this 
jiart  of  the  St.  Lawrence  : 

"At  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  Brockville,  a  rock 
of  gray  quartz  in  the  town  is  so  linelv  polished  that 
lines  on  it  were  invisible,  and  almost  imperceptible, 
till  a  heel-ball  rubbing  brought  them  out.  Their 
main  direction  is  N.  45"  East  (magnetic),  and  large 
polished  grooves,  in  which  sand-lines  occur,  are  ten 
feet  wide.  At  other  spots  on  the  same  rock,  lines 
point  north  and  have  other  bearings,  but  the  whole 
sh.npe  of  the  country  bears  N.  E.  and  S.  W, 

'•  Hevond  Brockville,  the  Thousand  Islands  of 
Lake  Ontario  closely  resemble  groups  of  low  rocks 
off   Goltenburgh.     The    solid    rock    foundation   of 


(.'anada,  up  to  the  level  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  glaciated. 
It  is  striated  in  various  directions,  but  the  main  lines 
observed  aimed  Iniin  Hellelsle  towards  Ni.iki.na. 
Upon  or  near  the  rock  are  beds  of  s.md,  shells, 
gravel,  and  cl.iv.  with  l.iigc  and  well  scratched 
bowlders  of  fiir.'igii  origin.  Higher  than  these  beds 
of  drift  arc  more  beds  of  sand,  shells,  gravel,  clay 
and  bowlders  as  high  up  as  the  top  of  Montreal 
Mountain,  and  the  lop  of  .Niagara  Falls." 

In  noticing  these  phenomena  of  glacial  ac- 
tion, it  may  be  remarked  that  the  whole  sur- 
face of  the  ( oiintry  north  and  south,  and  to  a 
great  distance,  is  found  strewn  here  and  there 
with  bowlders,  some  of  them  of  immense  size, 
and  in  other  places  are  moraines  or  ridges  in 
great  abundance.  Drift-hills  composed  of 
sand,  gravel  and  bowlders,  sometimes  ce- 
mented by  clay  into  "  hard  pan,"  are  a  com- 
mon occurrence, 

Lakk  RinoES. 

We  may  in  this  connection  notice  the  "  Lake 
Ridges,"  so-calleil,  that  occur  on  both  sides  of 
the  lake,  and  various  elevations  above  its 
present  level.  These  particularly  engaged 
the  attention  of  I'rof,  Charles  Lyell,  the  En- 
glish geologist,  who,  in  his  journey  in  1842, 
stopped  at  Toronto  to  examine  them  as 
they  occur  northward  from  that  city.  The 
first  of  the  ridges  was  a  mile  inland  —  and 
108  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  lake. 
It  arose  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  above  the 
level  land  at  its  base,  and  could  be  traced  by 
the  eye  running  a  long  distance  east  and  west, 
being  marked  by  a  narrow  belt  of  fir-wood, 
while  above  and  below,  the  soil  was  clayey, 
and  bore  other  kinds  of  timber. 

The  second  ridge,  a  mile  and  a  half  further 
inland,  was  aoiS  feet  above  the  lake  at  its 
base,  as  determined  by  canal  and  railroad 
surveys,  and  arose  fifty  to  seventy  feet  high, 
the  ground  being  flat  both  above  and  below, 
and  at  the  foot  lay  a  great  number  of  bowlders, 
which,  from  their  composition,  showed  that 
they  came  from  the  north.  Some  of  these 
bowlders  lay  on  the  top  of  the  ridge,  but  there 
were  but  few  erratic  rocks  on  the  soil  between 
these  ridges. 

Another  ride  of  two  miles  and  a  half,  in 
a  northerly  direction,  brought  him  to  a  third 


22: 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


ridge,  five  miles  from  the  lake  —  less  conspicu- 
ous than  cither  of  the  former,  being  little 
iiore  than  a  steep  slope  of  ten  feet  by  which 
♦.he  higher  terrace  was  reached,  only  eighty 
feet  above  the  base  of  the  second  ridge.  Thus 
he  went  on,  passing  one  ridge  after  another, 
sometimes  dcv'iating  several  miles  from  the 
direct  course,  to  fix  the  continuity  of  level, 
and  observing  their  general  character.  He 
saw  no  less  than  eleven  of  these  ridges  in  all, 
some  of  which  might  be  called  cliffs,  or  the 
abrupt  terminations  of  terraces  of  clay,  which 
cover  the  silurian  rocks  of  that  region  to  a 
great  depth,  and  belonging  to  the  drift  or 
bowlder  formation. 

The  highest  ridge  was  about  680  feet  above 
the  lake,  the  water-shed  between  Lakes  Ontario 
and  Simcoe  being  762  feet.  From  the  sum- 
mit the  slope  toward  Lake  Simcoe  descends 
282  feet,  end  ■'.long  down  this,  se/eral  ridg'"s 
were  found,  showing  that  water  had  formerly 
flowed  to  a  higher  level  than  the  present. 

Mr.  Lyell  remarks  that  he  had  never  before 
observed  so  striking  an  example  of  banks,  ter- 
races, and  accumulations  of  stratified  gravel, 
sand  and  clay,  maintaining  over  wide  areas  so 
perfect  a  \  jrizontality  as  in  this  district  north 
of  Toronto.  He  remarks  that  the  hypothesis 
of  the  successive  breaking  down  of  barriers 
of  an  ancient  lake  or  fresh-water  ocean  has 
now  been  generally  abandoned,  from  the  im- 
possibility of  conceiving  here,  as  in  the  west 
of  Scotland,  as  to  where  lands  capable  of 
damming  up  the  waters  to  surli  height  could 
have  been  situated,  or  how,  if  they  have  ex- 
isted, they  could  have  (iisappeared,  while  the 
levels  of  the  ancient  beaches  remained  undis- 
turbed. He,  therefore,  inclines  to  the  belief 
that  they  were  the  margin  of  the  ancient  sea, 
which  has  changed  level  from  the  upheavals 
of  the  continent.  This  must  have  been  inter- 
mittent; so  that  pauses  occurred,  during  which 
the  coast-line  remained  stationary  for  centu- 
ries, and  in  which  the  waves  would  have 
time  to  cut  cliffs,  or  throw  up  beaches,  or 
throw  down  littoral  deposits  and  sand  banks 
near  the  shore. 

In  support  of  this  theory,  he  cites  the  ex- 
ample of  Scandinavia,  which  has  been  slowly. 


yet  perceptibly  rising  from  the  sea  within  tho 
historic  period,  at  the  rate  of  two  or  thrcf 
feet  a  century.  VVc  know  too  little  of  the 
laws  that  gqvern  these  subterranean  move- 
ments, to  deny  the  possibility  of  such  inter- 
mittent changes  in  the  level  of  the  sea. 

While  the  cliff  margins  might  have  been  the 
abrupt  shore  in  an  extremely  ancient  period, 
the  bars  of  sand  on  the  highest  levels  may 
have  been  formed  on  the  inland  margin  ol 
shallow  waters,  at  some  distance  from  deej) 
waters,  as  may  be  seen  in  course  of  formation 
in  some  places  at  the  present  time. 

Depth  of  the  St.   Lawrence. — Tides   in 
THE  Lakes. 

The  soundings  in  the  river,  among  the 
islands,  indicate  a  great  irregularity  of  deptii, 
the  bottom  being  generally  rocky,  and  cpiite 
as  diversified  as  the  parts  that  rise  above  tlie 
surface.  The  greatest  depth  is  i  ?o  feet,  but 
the  usual  soundings  are  from  thirty  to  sixty 
feet.  As  a  general  rule,  the  navigation  among 
the  islands  is  entirely  safe  to  vessels  of  tiie 
size  usually  employed  upon  these  waters,  and 
all  the  dangerous  rocks  and  reefs  have  their 
positions  marked. 

The  level  of  the  river  differs  one  year  with 
another,  the  extreme  range  being  about  seven 
feet.  These  changes  are  not  the  immediate 
effects  of  the  excessive  rains,  such  as  cause 
floods  in  other  rivers,  but  appear  to  be  oCv:a- 
sioned  by  the  different  ([uantities  of  rain  f.^.il- 
ing,  in  some  years  more  tii.in  in  others,  and 
whicli  finds  its  way  down  months  afterward 
A  series  of  several  years  of  high  water,  and 
others  of  low  water,  are  known  to  occur. 
'Ihe  level  of  the  river  is  also  afiected  bv 
strong  prevailing  winds,  blowing  up  or  down 
the  lake,  and  several  instances  of  rapid  fall, 
followed  by  a  returning  wave  of  cxtraordinar\ 
height,  have  been  reported.  Some  have  sii|>- 
posed  these  sudden  changes  of  level  to  he 
caused  by  earthquake- shocks,  but  a  more 
probable  theory  a|)pears  to  be  that  they  arc 
occasioned  by  the  passage  of  a  water-spout, 
or  a  tornado  at  a  distant  point.  There  is 
also  found  to  be  a  slight,  but  well-marked  tide 
in  the   lakes,  depending  upon  lunar  changes, 


;a  within  the 
two  or  thru- 
little  of  the 
mean  inovc- 
f  such  inter- 
lie  sea. 

lave  been  the 
cient  period. 
It  levels  may 
id  margin  (»; 
:e  from  dt;o|. 
of  formation 
ne. 

E. — Tides   in 

',  among  the 
rity  of  depth, 
ky,  and  quite 
ise  above  the 
no  feet,  but 
thirty  to  sixty 
igation  among 
vessels  of  tiic 
se  waters,  and 
efs  have  their 

one  year  with 
g  about  seven 
he  immediate 
uch   as  cause 
r  to  be  occa- 
s  of  rain  fall- 
n   others,  and 
hs    afterward, 
gh  water,  and 
wn    to   occur, 
affected     hv 
g  up  or  down 
of   rapid  fall, 
extraordinaiA 
me  have  suji- 
)f   level   to  he 
but    a    more 
that   they  arc 
water-spout, 
nt.      There    is 
11-marked  tide 
L',nar   changis, 


BOUNDARIES  OF  THE    THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


333 


like  those  upon  the  ocean,  capable  of  the 
same  prediction,  and  governed  by  the  same 
laws.  This  fact  has  been  proved  by  long- 
continued,  self  recording  observations.  Ft 
may  often  be  disguised  byoscillation  in  the 
level  occasioned  by  the  winds.  It  was  ob- 
served by  Charlevoix,  in  1721,  that  the  level 
of  the  lake  changed  several  times  in  a  day, 
as  may  be  seen  anywhere  along  the  shore, 
especially  upon  a  gently-sloj)ing  beach.  This 
is  probably  due  chiefly  to  the  action  of  the 
winds.  ' 

BouNPARY  Lines  Between  the  Two 
Governments. 

In  French  colonial  times,  there  was  no 
boundary  acknowledged  by  both  governments; 
as  existing  between  the  French  and  English 
settlements.  Each  party  claimed  far  Jjcyond 
the  point  allowed  by  the  other,  and  the  en- 
croachments of  the  former  u|)on  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  in  the  west  are  well  known  to  have 
led  to  the  war  that  ended  in  1760,  in  the 
establishment  of  English  authority  over  the 
whole. 

'I'he  province  of  Quebec,  as  created  by 
royal  proclamation,  was  bounded  on  the 
south,  from  the  Connecticut  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence rivers,  by  the  line  of  45"  north  latitude, 
and  south-westward  by  a  line  running  from 
the  point  where  this  line  intersected  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nipessing. 
A  survey  of  the  line  of  45°  was  begun  in  1772 
by  John  Collins,  on  the  part  of  Quf'^**' ,  ."nd 
Thomas  Vallentine,  on  the  part  of  New  'ork, 
but  the  latter  having  died,  Cl.Tsde  Joseph 
Sauthier  was  a|)pointed  in  hiL  ^l.  e,  and  the 
work  was  completed  October  20,  1774. 

In  the  treaty  of  1783,  the  line  of  the  river 
and  lakes  was  adopted  as  the  boundarv  west- 
ward from  St,  Regis,  but  no  surveys  of  this 
part  were  undertaken  until  about  thirty-five 
years  afterwards.  The  military  posts  on  the 
American  side  of  the  boundary  were  held  by 
the  British  for  the  purpose  of  protecting;  *I;v, 
claims  of  British  subiects  until  definitely 
relintpiished  under  the  jay  treaty,  signed  No- 
vember 19,  1794,  under  which  it  was  agreed 
that   they  should  be  given  up  on  or  before 


June  I,  1796.  In  the  meantime,  the  discus- 
sion as  to  boundaries  continued,  and  Lieuten- 
ant-Governor J.  G.  Simcoe,  of  U|)per  Canada, 
was  particularly  strenuous  in  insisting  u|)on 
an  aggressive  advance  of  the  frontier,  that 
should  secure  to  British  interests  in  the  inte- 
rior tiie  magnificent  empire  which  the  French 
had  endeavored  to  establish.  He  would  have 
had  Niagara  the  seat  of  government  of  this 
English  .America,  and  had  his  first  concessions 
been  allowed,  the  western  boundary  of  the 
United  Stales  would  have  been  the  Genesee 
river,  and  a  line  extending  from  its  head- 
waters to  the  sources  of  the  Ohio,  and  thence 
southward,  alonj;  the  Alleghenies  to  the  Gulf 
coast. 

Wh»'n  thiri  'ould  not  be  secured,  he  pro- 
posed a  line  from  Presque  Isle  [Erie,  Pa.]  to 
Pittsburgh  ;  then  the  Cuyahoga,  and,  as  a  last 
extremity,  the  Miami  river.  Early  in  1792,  in 
a  long  letter  to  the  home  government,  he 
pointed  out  the  great  advantages  that  would 
result  to  Canada  from  the  adoption  of  a  line 
that  should  run  from  Lake  Ontario  across  the 
country  to  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  including  the  disputed  boundaries  upon 
t'lat  lake.  Until  the  last  moment,  he  had 
•  lung  to  the  hope  of  attaching  Vermont  to 
Canada,  and  the  correspondence  of  that 
period  shows  that  an  expectation  of  this 
result  had  been  encouraged  by  the  turbulent 
leaders  in  that  State  a«  an  alternative  pre- 
ferred to  submission  to  the  authority  of  either 
of  the  claiming  States.      He  adds  : 

"  I  should  tliink  Oswego,  and  I  qucslion  whether 
NiaKiu.i  woidd  not  Ito  a  cheap  sacrifice  fur  such  a 
liiidl,  which  would  he  strictly  defensive  on  our  part, 
aiul  rakulaU'd  to  prevent  future  disagreements.  I 
h,iv,'  heard  thai  Carlln'i  IsUnd,  the  most  important 
P'i.;t  (III  Lake  ()ntari(>,  is  on  the  Hritish  side  of  the 
line  :is  ihe  hetiir  channel  is  hel<vecn  that  and  the 
sDiilhern  shore." 

.\gnin,  in  writing  lo  the  Rt.  Hon.  Henry 
Dundas,  November  4,  1792,  he  .^ays:  "I  beg 
to  send  a  map  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  that 
in  case  of  a  treaty  being  entered  into  with  the 
United  States,  it  may  plainly  appear  of  what 
cons((|uencc  it  is  to  render  it  efectual  and 
permanent,  that  the  British  boundary  should 
enclose  the  islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence." 


324 


A   SOUVEAfR  OF   THE  ST.    LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


H« 


Under  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  which  ended 
the  war  of  1812-15,  Feter  B.  Porter  was  ap- 
pointed on  the  part  oi  the  United  States,  and 
Andrew  tiarchiy  on  the  part  oi  G'eat  iJritain, 
as  commissioners  to  run  and  mark  !he  line. 
The  survey  was  begun  in  1817.  and  "hei/  re- 
port was  signed  June  18,  :82i'.  siibject  to  rati- 
fication by  their  respective  governments.  Their 
operations  were  conducted  with  much  pre- 
cision, and  the  details  were  reduced  to  niajis 
th.it  have  never  been  published.  Copies  of 
these  are  preserved  in  t'le  offices  of  record  of 
the  countries  concerned. 

While  the  b(  ndury  survey  was  in  prrrress. 
Col.  Samuel  Hawkins,  the  agent  of  the  .Xmeri- 
can  commission,  gave  a  ft'te  cham|)etre  t«pon 
one  of  the  lower  islands,  to  which  the  nu'in- 
bi'ia  of  the  commission  on  both  sides  werj  in- 
v'ted.  The  incident  is  defcribed  by  Mr. 
Darby,  who  says: 

"  The  day  was  even  on  ihe  Si.  Lawrenre  uncom- 
monly fine,  and  amiJ  the  proves  of  aspen,  wjld- 
clu-rr),  and  lindcti  {rees,  the  scene  seemed  more 
than  eailhly.  .Mih.  Hawkins  presided.  7nd  in  (lie 
liowcisijf  th«  Si.  LawT'-nce  recalled  the  most  pol- 
islict  manners  of  civilized  soticny  in  the  crowded 
city.  At  the  close  of  rvening  Major  Joseph  Dcla- 
field  and  mvsrif  walked  rtvtr  ihc  island,  and  iii 
ml'  view  of  the  obit-cis  which  rxciied  our  feelings, 
cuncludud  '.hat  no  sp(>t  on  '.he  glotx.-  could  unite  iji 
so  small  a  spaci-  more  (n  please,  lu  amuse,  and 
gratify  tlu  fam.y  " 

The  earlier  surveys  between  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  Connecticut  river*  being  in  idc-  with- 
out jjrecision,  were  found  in  1818  to  be  almost 
everywhere  lipon  a  line  too  far  north.  At 
St.  Regis  the  departure  Irom  the  true  latitude 
of  45^'  was  found  to  be  1,375  feet;  at  the 
Frjnch  .Mills  [Fort  Covington  I  it  was  15.1 
feel;  at  C-lialcauguy  river,  975  feet,  and  at 
Rouse's  Point,  4,576  feet. 

The  government  of  th-.*  United  States  had 
begun  t(i  erect  a  fort  on  L.ike  Champlain.  near 
wli  It  was  the  supposed  bouiidary.  soon  after 
tiie  war  of  1812-15.  and  this  was  wholly  car- 
ried over  into  Canada,  by  the  survey  of  1818. 
It  liad  been  christened  "  Fort  .Montgomery," 
but  now  in  com'non  parlance  wa*  called  "  Fort 
Blunder."  The  ,\mericans  being  unable,  and 
the  Canadians  unwilling  to  protect  the  prop- 


erty, it  became  the  prey  of  whoever  chose  to 
plunder  it  of  material'.;,  as  needed  for  build- 
ing piirposes.  Finally  by  cht  surveys  of 
1842,  the  old  line  of  1774  was  taken  as  a  com- 
promise, and  the  site  being  thu?  restored  to 
the  possession  of  the  United  States,  work  was 
resumed  and  carried,  we  behev;;,  to  compk- 
tion  under  the  original  name. 

In  the  surveys  made  under  the  VVebster- 
Ashburton  treaty  of  1842,  J.  B.  Bucknall  Est- 
court,  lieutenant-colonel,  w?.s  appointed  by 
the  government  of  (Ireat  Britain,  and  Albert 
Smith  by  that  of  the  United  States.  Thiy 
confirmed  the  line  in  the  river,  as  it  had  betMi 
located  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  and  the 
old  line  marked  by  Vallentine  and  Collins  be- 
tween the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Champlain. 
They  were  able  to  follow  this  line  by  the 
marks  en  tiie  trees,  still  visible,  or  found  by 
cutting  into  them;  but  where  these  could  not 
be  found,  or  where  clearings  had  been  made, 
straight  lines  were  run  between  these  old 
landmarks,  and  iron  monuments  were  set  at 
every  angle  of  defle<  tion,  and  at  the  crossing 
of  rivers,  lakes  and  roads.  The  boundary 
line  is,  therefore,  not  on  the  true  parallel  ot 
45"^,  nor  in  the  middle  of  the  channel. 
hut  it  is  a  conventional  line,  agreed  upon  h\ 
both  governments,  and  accurately  defined  by 
mouuments  and  records. 

The  l.irgc  islands  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  be- 
low Ogdensburg,  iiad  long  been  settled  under 
St.  Regis  Indian  titles,  and  were  occupied  ai 
the  time  of  the  survey  by  settlers,  who,  up  to 
that  time,  had  been  regarded  as  British  sub- 
jects. 

Some  forty  years  afterwards,  the  persons 
who  had  sustained  losses  by  this  transfer  ap- 
plied to  the  State  of  New  York  for  compensa- 
tion, and  their  claims  became  the  subject  of 
investigation  and  of  legislative  action  for  their 
relief. 

HVDROdRAPHICAI.  AND  ToPOORAPHlCAt. 

SUKVKVS. 
HKITISU    SCRVKVS. 

The  first  surveys  of  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie 
were  made  in  the  summer  of  1789,  under  the 
direction   of    Mr.    Niff,    an    engineer.      They 


:ver  chose  to 
d  for  build- 
surveys  ot 
en  as  a  corn- 
restored  Id 
es,  work  was 
i,  to  compk- 

he  Webster- 
tucknall  Est- 
ppointed  by 
,  ind  Albert 
:ates.  Thty 
I  it  had  bet'ii 
;nt,  and  the 
d  Collins  be- 
;  Champlain. 
line  by  tlie 
or  found  by 
se  could  not 
been  made, 
n  these  old 
were  set  at 
the  crossinf; 
e  boundary 
■  parallel  ot 
ie  channel, 
ed  upon  1)\ 
defined  by 

wrence,  be- 
rttied  under 
occupied  at 
who,  up  to 
Hritish  sub- 
he    persons 
transfer  aj)- 
compensa- 
subject  of 
on  for  their 


tAPHICAl, 


io  and  Erie 
,  under  the 
eer.      They 


LIGHT-HOUSES  OF  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


225 


only  embraced  the  south  shore  of  Lake  On- 
tario, from  Carleton  Island  to  Niagara,  and 
thn  south  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  from  its  ea.icii: 
end  to  Detroit. 

The  engitieer's  instructions  required  him,  in 
addition  to  the  soundings,  to  note  the  loca- 
tions proper  for  ship-building,  the  (juality  of 
land  for  settlement,  and  the  kind  of  timber 
ale  ig  the  slu-res.  It  will  be  remembered  that 
the  whole  \^{  this  region,  now  within  the 
States,  was  then  still  held  by  the  British  mili- 
tary authorities,  and  it  may  be  inferred  from 
the  above  instructions  that  they  were  looking 
forward  to  a  time  when  it  should  be  perma- 
nently under  their  control. 

Soon  after  the  war  of  1812-15,  a  survey  of 
the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Ontario  and  of  the 
river  St.  Lawrence,  as  far  down  as  the  Gallop 
Rapids,  was  made  by  Capt.  VV.  E.  W.  Owen, 
of  the  Royal  Navy,  with  soundings,  a  definite 
delineation  of  "ie  shores  and  islands,  and  some 
topographical  details  concerning  the  adjacent 
parts.  Thi.  survey  was  completed  in  1818, 
and  published  by  the  Hydrographical  Office 
of  thr  Viiiralty  in  1828,  forming  a  series  of 
five  e  >irt  .  These  were  re-engraved,  with 
corrections,  in  1861,  and  are  found  in  the  col- 
lections known  as  the  "  Havfield  (Charts," 
which  in  all  embrace  an  extensive  series  of 
lake  surveys. 

An  elaborate  survey  of  the  region  around 
Kingston,  including  the  adjacent  islands,  upon 
a  large  scale,  and  showing  the  contour  of 
surface  and  details  of  topography,  with  special 
reference  to  its  military  defences,  was  ))re- 
pared  a  few  years  since,  and  a  limited  edition 
printed. 

United  States  Lake  Surveys. 

For  many  years,  the  survey  of  the  northern 
and  northwestern  lakes  has  been  in  course  of 
execution  by  the  corps  of  engineers  of  the  war 
departinent.  These  trigomctrical  and  hydro- 
graphical  surveys  were  begun  u|)on  Lake  On- 
tario and  the  river  St.  Lawrence  about  ten 
years  since,  and  during  the  years  187 1  to 
1875,  were  extended  along  the  river  from  St. 
Regis  to  the  lake,  under  the  direction  of 
Brig. -Gen.  C  B.  Comstock.     In  1876,  the  re- 


sults were  published  in  six  charts,  which  rep- 
resent the  part  of  the  river  from  St.  Regis  to 
the  foot  of  Wolfe  Island,  upon  a  scale  of  i  to 
30,000  or  a  little  more  than  two  miles  to  an 
inch.  They  embrace  the  whole  of  the  river, 
and  the  topography  of  both  shores,  but  do  not 
indicate  the  boundary  line.  A  map  of  the 
eastern  end  of  Lak  •  Ontario,  being  No.  i  of  a 
separate  series,  on  a  scale  of  i  to  80,000,  or 
about  four-fifths  of  an  inch  to  a  mile,  has  also 
been  published  under  the  same  direction. 
These  charts  all  have  a  great  number  of  sound- 
ings, with  indications  of  the  nature  of  the  bot-' 
torn,  the  contour  and  cultivation  of  the  land 
on  the  islands  and  adjacent  shores,  the  place 
of  buildings,  the  lines  of  roads,  and  of  streets 
in  villages,  and  the  character  and  extent  of 
woodlands,  with  an  accuracy  of  detail  that 
jjroves  the  excellence  of  the  work. 

Light-Houses. 

A  few  facts  concerning  the  light-houses 
along  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  not  be  without 
interest : 

The  American  Light-Houses  are  under 
the  care  of  a  "light-house  board,"  in  the 
Treasury  Department,  and  *he  coasts  and  rivers 
of  the  country  are  divided  into  fifteen  districts. 
Of  these,  the  tenth  district  extends  from  St. 
Regis  to  Detroit,  with  the  headfiuarters  of 
the  inspector  and  engineer  at  Buffalo.  Within 
this  district,  there  arc  sixty-seven  light-houses, 
and  about  150  buoys  (spars  and  cans),  an- 
chored so  as  to  show  the  course  of  the  chan- 
nel, or  the  position  of  dangerous  places. 
These  spars,  etc.,  are  taken  up  at  the  close  of 
navigation,  and  replaced  after  the  ice  has  dis- 
appeared in  the  spring.  By  their  color  and 
numbers,  they  give  information  that  all  navi- 
gators must  understand.  There  are  six 
American  lights  from  Ogdensburgto  Tibbett's 
Point,  inclusive.  They  have  all  fixed  white 
lights,  with  lens  apparatus  of  the  fourth  or 
sixth  order.  Their  names  and  position  arc 
as  follows: 

Ogdensburgh,  on  a  rocky  islet,  190  yards 
from  south  shore;  built  in  1834;  refitted  in 
1S70;  a  square  tower,  42  feet  high,  with 
keeper's  dwelling. 


226 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


Cross-over  Island,  20  miles  above  Ogdens- 
burg;  a  tower  37  feet  high,  on  keeper's  brick 
dwelling;  lantern  black;  built  in  1837;  refuted 
in  1870. 

Sister  Island,  6^  miles  further  up;  a  tower 
on  keeper's  stone  dwelling;  lantern  black,  with 
red  dome;  built  in  1870;  height,  43  feet. 

Sunken  Rock.  6  miles  further  up,  on  Bush 
Island,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north  of 
Alexandria  Bay;  an  octagonal  brick  tower, 
sheathed  with  boards;  wliite;  height,  31  feet; 
built  in  1847;  refitted  in  1855. 

Rock  Island,  7  miles  further  up;  keeper's 
dwelling  of  brick,  white,  with  a  low  tower  on 
top;  dome  black;  height,  39  feet;  built  in  1847; 
refitted  in  1855.      [Shown  hereafter.] 

Tibbett's  Point,  23  miles  above,  at  the  out- 
let of  the  lake;  a  stone  building  connected  by 
covered  way  with  a  round  brick  tower  67  feet 
high;  white;  built  in  1827;  refitted  in  1854. 

The  oldest  light-house  on  the  lake  is  that 
near  Fort  Niagara,  built  in  18 13;  the  next 
oldest  is  the  one  on  Gallo  Island,  built  in 
1820.  All  the  lights  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
the  Great  Lakes  are  discontinued  from 
January  1st  until  the  opening  of  navigation, 
unless  otherwise  specially  directed. 

The  D0.MIN10N  Light-House  System  is 
under  the  charge  of  the  Minister  of  Marine 
and  Fisheries,  and  at  the  beginning  of  1880 
embraced  482  lights,  of  which  Labrador  had 
4;  Newfoundland  3;  Gulf  and  River  of  St. 
Lawrence  140  to  Montreal — 19  from  tlience 
to  Windmill  Point  near  Prescott,  and  10  from 
thence  to  the  lake;  Saguenay  River  6;  Richlieu 
River  5;  Lake  Memi)hramagog  6;  Ottawa 
River  16;  Lake  Ontario  29;  Lake  Simcoe  i; 
Lake  Erie  15;  Detroit  River  2;  Lake  St.  C!lair 
I ;  Lake  Huron  32;  Lake  Superior  9;  Prince 
Edward  Island  29;  Cape  Breton  Island  23; 
Nova  Scotia  (Atlantic  Coast)  63 ;  Hay  of 
Fundy  48;  St.  John's  River  13;  Winnipeg  i, 
and  Britisli  Columbia  7. 

The  Canadian  lights  from  Prescott  to  Lake 
Ontario  are  as  follows  : 

Cole  Shoal,  on  a  pitr  five  miles  west  of 
Brockville. 

Grenadier  Island  (S.  W.  point),  two  miles 
below  Rockport. 


Lindoe  Island,  five  miles  west  of  Rockport 

Gananoque  Narrows,  five  miles  below  Gana- 
noque,  on  Little  Stave  Island. 

Jack  Straw  Shoal,  on  a  pier,  north  side  ol 
channel,  three  miles  below  Gananoque. 

Spectacle  Shoal,  on  a  pier,  north  side,  one 
and  a  quarter  miles  west  of  Gananoque. 

Red  Horse  Rock,  on  pier,  S.  E.  side  ol 
channel,  one  mile  above  Spectacle  Shoals. 

Burnt  Island,  at  S.  E.  point  of  island,  north 
side  of  channel,  half  mile  from  Red  Horse 
Rock. 

Wolfe  Is'n.id,  on  Quebec,  or  east  point  of 
island  —  anc'  Brown's  or  Knapp's  Point,  on 
Wolfe  Island. 

These  a'e  all  fixed  single  lights,  with  metal- 
lic reflectors,  on  white  square  wooden  towers, 
and  were  all  built  in  1856,  except  Wolfe 
Island  Light  in  1861,  and  that  on  Brown's 
Point  in  1874 

Steam    Navigation    upon   Lake  Ontario 
AND  the  St.   Lav/rence. 

The  first  steamboat  that  appeared  upon 
this  lake  was  the  Oneida,  in  181 7.  The  boat 
was  1 10  feet  long,  twenty-four  wide,  and 
eight  deep,  and  measured  237  tons,  and  had 
a  low-pressure  cross-head  engine,  and  a 
thirty-four-inch  cylinder  with  four-feet  stroke. 
She  had  two  masts,  and  used  sails  when  the 
wind  favored.  It  was  indeed  a  new  era  in 
navigation,  and  from  this  time  Durham  boats, 
bateaux,  and  all  the  pleasant  associations 
which  boat  songs  recall  were  doomed  to  dis- 
appear. The  new  steamboat  was  indeed  a 
wonder  in  this  part  of  the  world,  and  at  every 
landing  crowds  assembled  from  far  and  wide, 
to  catch  a  view  of  the  first  wreath  of  smoke 
from  her  stack,  and  to  watch  and  wonder 
as  she  slowly  and  majestically  came  up,  and  as 
she  indei)endently  departed  on  her  appointed 
course.  Every  village  that  could  muster  a 
cannon,  and  every  steeple  that  had  a  bell,  an- 
nounced the  event,  and  joined  in  the  welcome. 
Bonfires  and  illuminations,  the  congratulations 
of  friends  and  interchange  of  hospitalities, 
signalized  the  event  along  the  whole  of  th( 
route,  and  the  occasion  was  jotted  down  a^ 
one  to  be  long  remembered.     The  round  trip 


)f  Rockport 
below  Gana- 

)rth   side  ol 

oque. 

th  side,  one 

loque. 

E.  side   nl 
;  Shoals, 
sland,  nortli 
Red   Horse 

ast  point  of 
s    Point,   on 

,  with  metal- 
aden  towers, 
ccept  Wolff 
on  Brown's 


E  Ontario 
:e. 

eared  upon 
The  boat 

wide,  and 
ns,  and  had 
ne,  and  a 
feet  stroke. 
Is  when  the 
new  era  in 
rham  boats, 
associations 
lied  to  dis- 
s  indeed  a 
nd  at  every 
r  and  wide, 
h  of  smoke 
nd  wonder 
eiip,  and  as 
r  appointed 
;1  muster  a 
I  a  bell,  an- 
le  welcome, 
^ratulations 
ospitalities, 
lole  of  tht 
d   down    as 

round  trip 


NAVIGATION  AND  LUMBERING. 


Z'.-'J 


from  Ogdensburgh  to  Lewiston  required  ten 
days.  P'are,  ^i6  in  the  cabin,  and  $8  on 
deck.  Master,  Captain  Mallaby.  Tiie  One- 
ida ran  till  1832,  seldom  making  more  than 
five  miles  an  hour.  The  Frontenac  came  out 
from  Kingston  not  long  after.  From  this  time 
down,  the  number  has  been  legion;  but  since 
the  completion  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
the  importance  of  steam  navigation  has  greatly 
declined,  and  several  fine  steamers  were  taken 
down  the  rapids  never  to  return.* 

But  whatever  the  future  may  determine,  as 
regards  the  lines  of  business  travel,  the  St. 
Lawrence  will  always,  in  its  islands  and 
its  rapids,  present  an  attractive  route  for  tour- 
ists in  the  summer  season.  We  may  never 
again  witness  a  fleet  of  steamers  as  magnifi- 
cent as  those  of  the  "  Ontario  and  St.  Law- 
rence Steamboat  Co.,"  which  in  its  best  days 
had  eleven  such  in  daily  us, — while  the  Cana- 
dians at  the  same  time  had  numerous  elegant 
steamers  fully  employed;  but  under  the  law 
universally  true  in  business,  that  the  supply 
will  be  regulated  by  the  demand,  we  may 
rontidently  look  for  abundant  comfort  and 
elegance  in  these  steamers  upon  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  history  of  steam  navigation 
scarcely  presents  a  more  remarkable  freedom 
from  accidents  than  does  that  upon  this  lake 
and  river  —  a  circumstance  due  as  well  to  the 
intelligence  of  those  entrusted  with  their  navi- 
gation, as  to  the  sagacity  of  owners,  who  saw 
their  true  interest  to  consist  in  the  certainty 
of  their  engagements,  rather  than  in  a  reputa- 
tion for  extraordinary  achievements  in  amount 
of  business,  or  high  rate  of  s|)eed. 

The  line  boats  of  the  F"olger  Brothers,  as 


*  A  large  amount  of  information  concerning  steam- 
boats upon  the  lake  will  be  found  in  Hough's  History 
of  St.  Lawrence  and  Franklin  Counties  (1853),  and 
in  Haddock's  History  of  JefTcrson  County  (1895). 

For  many  years  Clayton  was  a  noted  place  for 
steamboat  building.  Some  of  the  finest  steamers 
that  ever  appeared  on  these  waters  came  from  the 
shipyard  of  Mr.  John  Oadcs,  of  that  piftcc.  Of 
these  the  New  York  and  the  Bay  State,— truly  mag 
niliccnt  in  their  appoiniinenis.  were  afterwards  cm- 
ployed  iin  government  service  in  the  South.  Other 
lake  steamers  were  used  durin"  our  late  war  as 
blockade  runners  on  the  Southern  coast 


well  as  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Naviga- 
tion Company,  have  certainly  reduced  pre- 
cision to  perfection,  and  accidents  to  a  mini- 
mum. 

Life-saving  stations  were  first  established 
by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  upon 
Lake  Ontario,  in  the  summer  of  1854.  con- 
sisting originally  of  Francis's  Metallic  Life- 
Boats,  with  fixtures,  but  without  buildings 
to  shelter,  or  crews  to  manage  them.  The 
system  has  since  been  perfected  as  the  wants 
of  the  service  req   ired. 

The  present  lines  through  the  Thousand 
Islands  are  quite  numerous,  by  far  the  larger 
part  being  owned  and  run  by  llie  Folger  Bros., 
of  Kingston.  Their  boats  are  in  every  way 
superior,  and  really  leave  nothing  to  be  desired. 

Lumbering  upon  the  River  St.  Law- 
rence. 

in  several  of  the  descriptions  given  in  the 
preceding  pages,  allusion  is  made  to  wood- 
land scenes  and  woodmen's  labor.  One  of 
the  earliest  and  most  extensive  operators  in 
this  line  was  William  Wells,  eldest  son  of 
Thos.  Wells,  from  Sandown,  N.  H.,  who  came 
to  Canada  in  1787,  and  began  lumbering 
operations  about  1790,  on  the  island  to  which 
his  name  is  now  often  applied.  He  would 
establish  a  shanty  at  a  convenient  point,  and 
with  tile  aid  of  hired  men,  work  up  into  staves 
all  the  timber  suitable  to  his  use  within  con- 
venient reach,  and  when  this  was  exhausted 
he  would  remove  to  another  phu  e.  He  thus 
went  over  the  whole  of  this  island  and  other 
islands  in  the  river,  until  the  business  became 
no  longer  profitable.  His  tnarket  was  F^ng- 
land,  by  way  of  Quebec,  to  which  place  his 
stock  was  sent  upon  rafts.  At  a  later  period, 
Carlton  Island  for  a  short  time  became  an 
important  lumber  station,  and  later  still,  Clay- 
ton, where  for  many  years  iminense  (pianlitics 
of  timber,  brought  down  from  the  upper  lakes 
in  vessels,  were  made  up  into  rafts  in  Frenc  h 
Creek,  and  sent  down  to  Quebec.  It  was 
there  again  loaded  into  vessels,  for  the  Euro- 
pean markets.  In  recent  years,  the  ujt  of 
Wolfe  Island,  and  Garden  Island,  oppusite  to 
Kingston,  have  been  the  principal  lumbering 


12S 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


stations  on  the  river.  The  business  has  for  a 
long  time  depended  upon  supplies  brought 
down  from  distant  points  in  the  West,  and  is 
now  greatly  reduced  from  the  exhaustion  of 
supplies. 

Autumnal  Scenery  of  the  Northern 
States  and  of  Canada. 

We  nave  noticed  in  the  descriptions  of  sev- 
eral travellers  in  the  preceding  ])ages  an 
allusion  to  the  coloring  of  the  forests  of 
this  region  towards  the  close  of  autumn, 
forming,  indeed,  one  of  the  attractions 
most  likely  to  fix  itself  in  the  memory  in 
the  declining  season  of  the  year.  This  was 
most  fully  given  by  the  German  traveller.  Dr. 
Kohl,  whose  account  of  the  islands  will  be 
found  on  i)receding  pages.  We  will  com- 
mence the  description  with  his  arrival  at 
Kingston,  late  on  a  warm,  bright,  richly-col- 
ored autumnal  afternoon,  when  the  setting  sun 
presented  a  most  imposing  appearance.  There 
was  still  enough  uf  daylight  left  to  get  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  anil  its  suburbs,  and  he  de- 
parted by  steamer  for  Toronto  the  same  eve- 
ning. He  describes  tiie  passage  as  one  of 
excjuisite  beauty,  the  last  glow  of  twilight 
shedding  a  glory  over  the  a])parently  bound- 
less water,  which  seemed,  like  the  sea,  without 
limit.  As  it  grew  dark,  the  waters  presented 
the  nov'^l  spectacle  of  moving  lights  near  the 
shore,  where  the  fishermen  were  following 
their  business  by  torchlight  ;  and,  later  in  the 
night,  the  heavens  were  lit  u|)  by  the  aurora 
borealis  with  unusual  s|)lendor. 

It  may  almost  be  (juestioned  as  to  whether, 
amid  these  shifting  scenes  of  novelty,  our 
worthy  traveller  got  time  for  n  moment's  re- 
pose, for  his  descrijjtion  of  the  midnight 
aurora,  with  its  gleaming  pencils  of  light,  its 
corona,  and  its  dazzling  arch,  passes  directly 
into  tlie  picture  of  a  morning  on  the  lake,  that 
i')liows  : 

"  Hut  its  splctidors  were  f.ir  exceeded  in  beauty  by 
tlic  iciiiler  tints  of  tbe  aiiri)r:i  orirntalis  that  after- 
wards sliowed  theinSL'lvL's  on  ilie  fasicni  huri/.on,  aid 
then  tilled  the  whole  attnospliere  with  their  linht,  A 
delicate  mist  had  risen  toward  siuirisi!,  and  thr  sun 
had  made  use  of  this  ^auzy  veil  to  paint  it  with  the 
loveliest  pale  tints.     1  do  not  wonder  (hat  the  taste 


for  coloring  should  develop  itself  in  such  a  land  of 
mist,  where  the  palette  of  nature  is  provided  with 
such  a  variety  of  finely  graduated  hues.  The  eye  is 
sharpened  to  their  difTerences,  while  in  tropical  re 
gions,  where  the  chief  colors  appear  most  strikingly, 
the  senses  are  da/zled.  As  the  sun  rose,  I  remarked 
to  my  surprise  that  the  redness  of  the  morning  dawn 
had  not  passed  from  the  horizon,  as  it  coinmonlv 
does,  but  remained  hanging  as  a  very  decided  red 
segment  of  a  circle,  and  the  higher  the  sun  rose,  the 
further  it  stretched,  till  towards  eleven  o'clock  it  oc- 
cupied one-half  of  the  hori/on,  while  the  opposite 
side,  which  was  of  a  light  grayish  tint,  lost  ground 
more  and  more,  and  at  length  the  sun  ap|>eared  as  a 
radiant  focus  in  the  center  of  an  atmosphere  of 
light,  which,  with  few  variations,  passed  into  red  all 
round  the  horizon.  I  saw  this  remarkable  phenom- 
enon here  for  the  first  time,  but  afterwards  fre- 
quently, and  learned  that  it  especially  belonged  to 
the  '  Indian  Summer,'  and  was  known  under  the 
name  of  'the  pink  mist.'  " 

A  short  time  after,  our  traveller,  in  passing; 
northward  from  Toronto,  on  the  route  to 
Lake  Simcoe,  had  occasion  to  again  revert  to 
the  glories  of  the  autumnal  forest,  which  he 
had  already  noticed  in  passing  amid  the  Thou- 
sand Islands.  His  description  has  no  local 
application,  but  will  faithfully  represent  the 
impressions  of  an  intelligent  observer  in  the 
deciduous  forests  of  any  part  of  the  Northern 
States,  and  of  Canada,  in  the  fading  season 
of  the  year: 

"  The  trees  here  still  gloried  in  the  rich  colorinn 
of  their  leafage,  although  in  Quebec,  a  fortnight  be 
fore,  the  vegetation  had  assumed  a  bare  and  wintt\ 
aspect.  The  elegaiu  and  niiich-pri/.ed  maple  \vas 
conspicuous  among  theni,  as  it  mostly  is  in  (Canada, 
and  its  leaves  exhibited  more  shades  and  gradations 
of  golden-yellow  and  ciimson  than  can  be  found  in 
the  best  furnished  color-box.  Even  when  you  walk 
on  dark  cloudy  d.iys  in  the  forest,  the  trees  shed 
around  you  such  gorgeous  colors  that  you  might  im- 
agine it  was  bright  sunlight.  You  seem  to  be  walk 
ing  in  the  midst  of  some  magic  sunset  of  the 
declining  year.  The  leaves  of  the  maple  are,  tro, 
as  elegantly  cut  as  they  are  richly  adorned  with 
color,  and  the  Canadians  pay  them  the  same  homauc 
as  the  Irish  do  their  green  immortal  shamrock 
They  are  collected,  pressed  and  preserved;  ladies 
select  the  most  beautiful  to  form  natural  garlands 
for  their  ball-dresses.  Vou  see  in  Canada  tables 
and  other  furniture  inlaid  with  bouijuets  and  wreaths 
of  v.trnished  maple  leaves,  and  you  sec  an  elegant 
steamer  with  the  name  Maple  Leaf  painted  in  large 
letters  on  (he  side.     Sometimes  the  Canadians  would 


THE  BEAUTIES  OF  AUTUMN. 


229 


uch  a  land  of 
provided  with 
s.  The  eye  is 
in  tropical  re- 
lost  strikingly, 
isc,  1  rcniarki'il 
morning  dawn 
1  it  commonly 
■y  decided  rt'(l 
;  sun  rose,  the 
1  o'clock  it  Of- 
;  the  opposiiL- 
t,  lost  ground 
ap|>c'ared  as  ;i 
ttmosphere  of 
cd  into  red  ail 
cable  phcnoni- 
fterwards  fre- 
y  belonged  to 
ivn    under  the 


r,  in  passing 
he  route  to 
ain  revert  to 
St,  which  he 
id  theThoii- 
has  no  local 
L'present  tiu- 
erver  in  the 
he  Northern 
iding  season 

rich  colorinK 
a  fortnight  be 
re  and  winitv 
d  maple  w.is 
is  in  Canada, 
nd  gradations 
n  be  found  in 
hen  you  walk 
he  trees  shed 
t'ou  might  iiii- 
m  to  be  walk- 
. unset  of  the 
aple  are,  K  o, 
adorned  with 
same  lioniaK^^' 
il  shamrock, 
served;  ladies 
ural  garlands 
"anada  tables 
;s  and  wreaths 
cc  an  elegant 
inlcd  in  large 
ladlans  would 


ask  me,  in  their  glorious  woods,  whether  I  had  ever 
seen  anything  like  them  in  Europe;  and  if  I  an- 
swered that,  though  their  woods  were  especially 
beautiful,  I  had  elsewhere  observed  red  and  yellow 
.iiitumn  leaves,  they  would  smile  and  shake  their 
heads,  as  if  they  meant  to  say  that  a  stranger  could 
never  appreciate  the  beauties  of  a  Canadian  forest 
(hus  dying  in  golden  tlame.  I  have  seen  a  Swiss, 
l)orn  and  bred  among  the  Alps,  smile  just  as  pity- 
ingly at  the  enthusiasm  of  strangers  for  their  moun- 
tains, evidently  regarding  it  as  a  mere  momentary 
ilire,  and  that  they  only  could  know  how  to  value 
the  charms  of  a  land  of  mountains. 

"  The  m.ignificent  coloring  of  these  trees  strikes 
you  most,  I  think,  when  the  gilding  has  only  just 
begun,  and  the  green,  yellow  and  scarlet  tints  are 
mingled  with  the  most  delicate  transitions.  Some- 
times it  seems  as  if  Nature  were  amusing  herself 
with  these  graceful  playthings,  for  you  see  green 
trees  twisted  about  wiih  ijatlands  uf  rich  red  leaves, 
like  wreaths  of  roses,  and  then  again  .-ed  trees,  where 
the  wreaths  are  green.  I  followed  with  delight,  too, 
the  series  of  changes,  from  the  most  brilliant  crim- 
son to  the  darkest  claret  color,  then  to  a  rich  brown, 
which  passed  into  the  cold  pale  grey  of  the  winter. 
It  seems  tu  me  evident  that  the  sun  of  this  climate 
has  some  quite  peculiar  power  in  its  beams,  and  that 
the  faintest  tint  of  the  autumn  foliage  has  a  pure  in- 
tensity of  color  that  you  do  not  sec  in  Europe, 
I'ossibly  you  see  the  climate  and  characti  1  of  Can- 
ada mirrored  in  these  autumn  leaves,  and  it  is  the 
rapid  and  violent  transitions  of  heat  and  cold  that 
produce  these  vivid  contrasts. 

"The  frost  that  sometimes  sets  in  suddenly  after 
a  y  ry  hoi  day,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  chief  painters 
of  these  American  woods.  When  he  docs  but  touch 
the  trees  they  immediately  blush  rosy  red.  I  was 
warned,  therefore,  not  to  regard  what  I  saw  this  year 
as  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  his  artistic  efTorts,  since  the 
frost  had  come  this  time  very  gradually.  The  sum- 
mer heat  had  lasted  unusually  long,  and  the  drouth 
iiad  been  extr.iordinary,  so  that  the  leaves  had  be- 
come gradually  dry  and  withered,  instead  of  being 
suddenly  struck  by  the  frost  while  their  sap  was 
still  abundant,  a  necessary  condition,  it  appears,  for 
this  brilliant  coloring." 

As  if  quite  unable  to  tear  himself  from  a 
subject  that  had  so  thoroughly  awakened  his 
attention,  our  keenly  observant  traveller,  after 
describing  many  other  scenes  of  Indian  and 
Pioneer  life,  presented  in  his  northern  jour- 
ney, again  recurs  to  his  favorite  impressions. 
He  had  been  so  often  interrupted  by  imperti- 
nent inquiries,  as  to  who  he  was,  where  he 
was  going,  on   what  business,  where  he   in- 


tended to  buy  land,  and  where  he  meant  to 
settle,  that  he  had  devised  a  ready  means  of 
getting  rid  of  these  annoyances  —  for  when 
he  saw  one  of  these  inquisitors  approaching, 
he  at  once  began  a  short  biographical  recita- 
tion, stating  where  born,  his  origin,  what  he 
had  come  for  and  what  not,  and  so  forth,  end- 
ing with  the  declaration  that  he  did  not  in- 
tend to  settle  in  the  country,  nor  to  buy  land. 
As  soon  as  everybody  knew  who  and  what  he 
was,  they  cared  little  more  about  him,  and 
having  thus  cheaply  purchased  a  truce  from 
further  inquiry,  he  could  settle  down  to  the 
calm  enjoyment  of  the  scenery  before  him. 
He  says  : 

"  I  would  gladly  give  some  idea  of  its  beauty,  but 
it  is  often  ditficult  to  convey  impressions  of  this 
kind,  without  falling  into  repetitions,  which,  though 
often  far  from  unwelcome  in  nature,  where  there  are 
always  shades  of  difTcrencc,  are  very  apt  to  be  so  in 
books.  To  me,  there  was  a  never-ending  enjoyment 
in  gazing  on  the  coloring  of  a  Canadian  forest  in  its 
autumnal  glory,  and  observing  the  modifications  of 
their  colors  produced  by  a  greater  or  less  distance. 
From  the  immediate  foreground  to  the  remotest 
point  there  was  a  scale  of  a  hundred  degrees.  The 
trees  near  at  hand  were  of  a  full  rose  or  orange  hue, 
and  every  leaf  a  piece  of  glittering  gold,  and  yet 
every  tree  had  something  that  distinguished  it  from 
all  the  rest,  and  although  there  were  only  leaves,  the 
coK  rs  equaled  those  of  a  tropical  foiest  in  spring, 
when  it  is  covered  with  blossoms.  Farther  on,  the 
colors  were  melted  together  into  one  general  tint  of 
bright  pink,  then  a  little  blue  mingled  with  it,  and 
there  arose  several  softest  tones  of  lilac  ;  sometimes 
according  to  the  conditions  of  the  atmosphere,  the 
distant  woods  appeared  of  a  deep  indigo,  and  then, 
perhaps,  would  interpose  a  little  island  of  glowing 
red-gold  upon  an  azure  ground,  but  if  your  eye  fol- 
lowed the  line  of  forest  to  the  east,  the  colors  as 
well  as  the  trees  shrank  together,  and  a  great  wood 
of  leafy  oak,  elm  and  maple  would  look  like  a  low 
patch  of  reddish  heath." 

The  poet  Whittier,  in  describing  an  autum- 
nal scene,  strikingly  applicable  to  this  region, 
although  intended  for  another,  says  : 

(ieneath  the  westward-turning  eye 
A  thousand  wooded  islands  lie  — 
Gems  of  the  waters  !  —  with  each  hu« 
Of  brightness  set  in  ocean's  blue. 
Each  bears  aloft  its  tuft  of  trees 

Touched  by  the  pencil  of  the  frost. 
And  nnilulaling  with  the  lireeze. 


330 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


W 


•^* 


MISS   CI.ARA    MARION, 

President  of  the   American   Red   Cross,  now   dislributinR  relief  to  the  sufferers  in 

Arnicniu. 


/^TO  sufferers  from  war,  famine  and  catas- 
^^  trophe  the  name  of  Miss  ('lara  liarton 
is  a  familiar  one.  She  was  born  in  Massachu- 
setts in  1830,  and  in  her  earlier  years  was  a 
school  teacher,  afterwards  obtaining  a  situation 
in  th'_'  Patent  office  at  Washington,  which  place 
she  held  when  the  war  broke  out. 

Just  before  the  first  battle  of  Bull  Run,  Miss 
Barton  advertised  in  Massachusetts  papers  that 
she  would  receive  stores  and  money  for 
wounded  soldiers  at  the  front,  which  she 
would  personally  distribute.  The  appeal  was 
so  liberally  answered  that  she  filled  a  building 
with  goods.  She  went  with  the  army  and 
worked  night  and  day  nursing,  relieving  suf- 
fering and  distributing  supplies  throughout 
the  war.     Through  her  efforts,  thousands  of 


graves  of  the  unknown  soldier 
dead  were  discovered  and 
marked.  Congress  recog- 
nized her  efforts  in  this  di- 
rection by  awarding  lui 
$15,000. 

After  the  war,  Miss  Barton 
lectured  300  nights,  for 
which  she  received  ^30,000, 
and  drew  crowded  houses 
wherever  she  spoke.  In  1869 
she  went  abroad  for  rest  and 
recuperation.  The  nertyear 
the  Franco-Prtissian  war 
broke  out  and  she  did  .sonif 
effectual  work  among  the 
wounded,  es])ecially  at  Stras- 
burg.  From  Strasburg  she 
went  to  relieve  the  suffering 
after  the  fall  of  the  Commune 
at  Paris.  Her  services  won 
for  her  the  Prussian  order  of 
merit,  gave  her  acquaintan<  e 
with  the  working  of  the  Red 
Cross  agencies  in  Switzer- 
land and  (iermany,  and 
brought  her  to  the  notice  of 
the  Empress  Augusta. 

In  1881,  after  many  dis- 
appointments    and     delays, 
which  seem  incredible  at  this 
day,  the  American  National 
Red   Cross  Association   was   formally   recog- 
nized   by    Congress,    and    Miss     Barton    was 
elected  its  president. 

The  first  real  relief  work  of  the  association  was 
done  in  1882  when  the  Mississijjpi  overtlowed 
its  banks.  Having  less  than  $1,000  in  the  Red 
Cross  treasury,  Miss  Barton  started  for  the 
scene  of  the  disaster.  Before  she  left  Wash- 
ington the  wires  flashed  appeals  for  aid  to  be 
sent  at  once  to  Clara  Barton  at  Cincinnati. 
Aid  poured  in  from  every  direction.  So  gen- 
erous was  the  response,  that  more  came  than 
was  needed.  Always  frugal,  Miss  Barton  put 
by  the  suri)lus  for  the  next  great  disaster,  which 
soon  followed  in  the  overflow  of  the  Ohio  in 
1883,  and  the  Louisiana  cyclone  of  the  same 
year.     In  the  following  year,  the  Red  Cross 


own  soldier 
ivered  and 
;ss  recog- 
in  this  di- 
.rdir.g     iu-i 

kliss  Barton 
lights,  for 
;d  1^30,000, 
led  houses 
wC.  In  1869 
or  rest  and 
le  next  year 
ssian  war 
ic  did  sonu' 
among  the 
Ily  at  Stras- 
asburg  she 
le  suffering 
e  Commune 
ervices  won 
Ian  order  of 
:quainlan<  e 
of  the  Red 
in  Switzer- 
nany,  and 
le  notice  of 
usta. 

many  dis- 
r»d  delays, 
dible  at  this 
in   National 

ally   recog- 
Jarton    was 

jciation  was 

overtlowed 

in  the  Red 

ed   for  the 

eft  Wash- 

:)r  aid  to  be 

Cincinnati. 

1.     So  gen- 

came  than 

Barton  put 

aster,  which 

the  Ohio  in 

of  the  same 

Red  Cross 


> 

r. 

> 

o: 


O 

r 


> 


> 
r 


233 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


I  • 


again  found  work  in  the  overflow  of  both  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi. 

In  1884,  the  government  having  appropria- 
ted $3,000  for  the  purpose,  Miss  Barton  went 
to  Europe,  accompanied  by  Mr.  A,  S.  Solo- 
mons and  Hon.  Joseph  Sheldon,  to  represent 
the  American  Red  Cross  at  the  international 
conference  at  Geneva. 

In  1886,  the  drouth  in  Texas  necessitated 
more  work  by  her  agents.  When  the  Charles- 
ton earthquake  occurred  the  same  year,  Miss 
Barton  was  in  California  endeavoring  to  re- 
gain her  health,  but  she  visited  the  scene  and 
gave  her  aid. 

The  terrible  Johnstown  disaster  occurred 
May  30,  1889.  After  Miss  Barton  arrived  on 
the  field,  the  distribution  of  clothing  was  un- 
der the  personal  supervision  and  direction  of 
the  "  National  Red  Cross  Headquarters."  The 


entire  sum  expended  by  the  society,  at  Johns- 
town, was  $40,000. 

The  Sea  Islands  hurricane,  which  occurred 
in  1893,  and  caused  widespread  destruction  of 
life  and  property,  are  still  fresh  in  the  recol- 
lection of  the  public.  The  population  of  the 
islands  directly  affected  was  about  9,000.  The 
fringe  of  coast  which  felt  the  storm  was  in- 
habited by  about  35,000  people,  the  large  ma- 
jority of  whom  were  colored. 

Miss  Barton  had  some  experience  with  the 
negroes  of  this  region  in  the  first  months  of 
the  war,  and  so  knew  how  to  deal  with  them. 
A  rigorous  system  of  economy  was  adopted 
from  the  first  —  a  system  far  more  efficacious 
in  the  end  than  any  lavish  system  of  charity 
could  have  been.  [See  article  upon  The  Red 
Cross,  page  51.] 


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KISHINli   OKK   THE    HF.AD   Oh    "  I.ITTI.IC   OKENAUIKR,"   CANADIAN   CHANNEL. 


y,  at  Johns- 


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EARLY  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  ALEXANDRIA  BAY. 

BV    WILLIAM    FAYIiL,    ESg.,    l)K   ST.    LOUIS,    MO. 


/gk  LEXANORIA  RAY,  when  I  first  knew  it, 
'  1  just  before  the  existence  of  railroads  in 
the  Unitfd  States,  was  a  place  of  small  import- 
ance. It  was  a  depot  for  the  back-country 
merchants  and  new  settlers  who  sent  lumber, 
staves  and  potash,  principally  for  shipment  to 
the  Quebec  market,  and  returned  with  dry 
goods,  salt,  etc  ,  for  the  village  stores.  Except 
river  transportation,  the  i/iact  was  side-tracked 
on  the  landward  side  by  the  most  abominable 
roads,  almost  impassable  in  the  spring  and 
fall,  so  that  for  years  butter  and  cheese  and 
other  country  produce  were  under  the  control 
of  contractors,  forwarded  to  VVatertown  and 
Sackets  Harbor,  it  is  true,  over  better  roads, 
but  a  much  longer  route.  Owing  to  its  iso- 
lated situation,  the  Bay,  which  within  a  few 
years  has  attained  a  magical  growth  and  be- 
come the  central  attraction  of  the  most  popu- 
lar summer  resort  in  America,  was,  at  the 
time  mentioned,  unfrequented  by  the  tide  of 
pleasure  seekers,  except  perhaps  a  few  local 
fisliermen.  The  mode  of  transportation  was 
then  by  stage-coach  and  canal.  The  world 
of  fashion  resorted  to  Saratoga  Springs,  the 
Catskill  Mountain  House,  Niagara  Fails,  and 
some  favorite  sea-side  resorts  now  seldom 
heard  of.  The  most  famous  resorts  and  water- 
ing places  were  brought  into  journalistic  noto- 
riety by  letter  writers,  some  wielding  graceful 
pens,  as  N.  P.  Willis  in  the  New  York  Mirror, 
and  Willis  Gaylord  Clark,  the  "Ollapod  "  of 
the  Knickerbocker  Magazine.  Some  of  these 
descriptions  were  extensively  copied,  and 
showed  the  advantages,  as  one  mode  of  judi- 
cious advertising,  in  turning  the  tide  of  travel 
and  posting  the  public  on  the  charms  and 
striking  beauties  of  the  jilaces  described. 
I    first   saw  Alexandria    Bay  in   1832,   the 


cholera  of  that  year  having  struck  Quebec, 
the  earliest  outbreak  of  the  dread  pestilence 
on  the  continent,  and  then  following  up  the 
St.  Lawrence,  it  visited  Kingston  and  the 
large  cities,  leaving  the  Bay  entirely  untouched. 
The  village  contained  about  a  dozen  frame 
dwellings  and  shops,  scattered  promiscuously 
among  the  granite  knolls  and  level  grounds, 
wherever  a  favorable  site  offered.  The  only 
store,  a  red  frame  structure,  owned  by  John  W. 
Fuller,  was  at  the  steamboat  landing  on  the 
lower  point  jutting  into  the  Bay.  The  only 
tavern,  a  weather-worn  frame  structure,  at  the 
end  of  the  main  street,  leading  to  the  right  on 
entering  the  village,  was  kept  by  Smith.  The 
front  was  marked  by  a  flight  of  wooden  stairs 
that  led  to  the  bar-room.  This  important 
feature,  like  all  country  bar-rooms,  had  the 
upper  portion  of  the  bar  shielded  from  out- 
side intrusion  by  a  grating  of  round  wooden 
rods,  through  which  could  be  seen  a  row  of 
flint-glass  decanters,  surmounted  by  heavy 
stoppers  of  the  same  material.  The  upper 
shelf  had  round  glass  jars,  containing  sticks  of 
ribbon-colored  candy  and  Jackson  balLs. 

The  edibles  consisted  of  small  crackers  (two 
for  a  cent),  then  in  universal  use,  and 
"cookies,"  a  second  cousin  of  the  popular 
ginger-cake.  A  box  of  dried  herrings  was 
also  temptingly  displayed  to  satiate  the  pangs 
of  appetite,  especially  when  irrigated  by 
draughts  of  strong  liquor.  On  wooden  pegs 
in  the  proper  place  were  hung  yellow  slippers 
for  the  retiring  guests  at  bed-time.  Tavern 
customs  and  the  empire  of  fashion  have  very 
materially  changed  since  those  pristine  days. 
The  open  tavern  shed,  with  a  loft  for  hay  and 
oats  over  head,  was  located  on  the  Bay  at 
the  extreme  end  of  the  street.     Between  the 


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234 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


i« 


tavern  and  the  store  on  the  water  front,  was  a 
large  wooden  warehouse  in  which  the  goods, 
shipped  to  country  merchants  were  stored 
until  called  for.  In  the  open  spaces  near  the 
warehouse  immense  piles  of  staves  and  lumber 
were  corded  up,  awaiting  shipment,  and  con- 
stituted quite  a  feature  in  the  river  commerce 
of  the  place. 

In  my  early  recollections  of  the  scenery  I 
recall  with  curious  interest  the  intensely  sea- 
green  color  of  the  waters  of  the  Bay,  and  the 
beautiful  displays  of  graphic  granite  sometimes 
seen  in  the  rounded  granite  knobs. 

The  arrival  of  a  steamer  at  the  wharf  in 
rear  of  Fuller's  store  was  always  an  event 
that  enlivened  the  drowsy  quietude  of  the 
village.  A  few  passengers  would  usually  step 
on  shore  to  ease  their  sea-legs,  but  the  most 
important  personage  was  the  faultlessly-dressed 
clerk  of  the  steamer  who  stood  on  the  wharf, 
with  a  lot  of  invoices  in  his  hand  noting  down 
or  checking  the  discharge  and  shipment  of 
freight.  To  the  boyish  fancy  he  was  an  envied 
individual,  a  stupendous  official  character, 
through  whose  deft  fingers  all  business  transac- 
tions between  the  shore  and  steamer  had  to  be 
transmitted  before  the  boat  could  leave  the 
wharf.  Sometimes  a  glimpse  was  obtained  of 
singular  people  and  outre  characters,  emi- 
grants from  foreign  lands,  making  tiieir  way 
towards  the  illi.nitable  West.  At  a  period 
somewhat  later  I  saw  twenty  or  thirty  young 
French  Canadians  land  from  an  up-bound 
steamer.  They  were  a  lusty  looking  set  of 
youths  in  robust  health,  hardy  visage,  well 
developed,  athletes  in  strength  and  physical 
symmetry  of  form.  They  were  dressed  in  fine 
new  suits,  rather  flashy,  and  wore  their  boot- 
legs outside  up  to  the  knees,  bound  on  top 
with  red  morocco,  with  fluttering  tassels  dang- 
ling therefrom.  These  adventurous  young  men 
had  left  their  homes  at  Chambly,  St.  Johns 
and  Montreal,  and  were  bound  for  Green  Bay, 
thence  to  the  fur-trading  town  of  St.  Louis. 
Somethirtyyearsafterwards,  while  accompany- 
ing the  Indian  Peace  Commissioner  among 
the  Sioux  of  the  Upper  Missouri,  I  en- 
countered an  Indian  interpreter,  who,  as  near 
as  time  and  place  could  be  indentified,  was 


one  of  the  party  seen  at  Alexandria  Bay  at  the 
period  mentioned.  This  man,  likt  all  the 
French  Canadian  traders  and  interpreters,  had 
an  Indian  wife  and  a  numerous  progeny.  Our 
interpreter  abandoned  his  Indian  wife  and 
married  a  respectable  white  girl  at  North 
Platte  —  General  Sherman  and  the  other  com- 
missioners being  invited  to  attend  the  wedding. 
The  relatives  of  the  old  squaw  came  to  kill  the 
interpreter's  horses  in  revenge  for  his  deser- 
tion of  the  once  attractive  and  dusky  maiden 
of  his  youthful  days. 

Alexandria  Bay  was  slow  in  coming  to  the 
front  as  a  fishing  resort,  owing  to  the  adverse 
causes  mentioned.  In  this  respect,  for  several 
years,  Theresa,  in  the  same  township,  rather 
took  the  lead.  The  stream  at  that  then  remote 
village  abounded  in  the  spring  with  mullet, 
and  throughout  the  season  that  king  of  the 
piscatory  tribe,  the  muscalonge,  came  up  the 
Indian  River,  to  the  falls  at  Theresa,  and  was 
taken  with  the  spear  or  trolling  spoon.  The 
Sixberries  had  long  beaten  up  the  ground,  and 
the  Indian  River  with  its  tributary  lakes,  be- 
came the  paradise  of  the  hunter,  trapper  and 
fisherman.  Theresa,  as  the  headquarters  for 
the  outfit  of  boats  and  fishing  tackle,  came 
into  note,  and  was  made  popular  by  the  an- 
nual excursions  down  the  river  from  that 
point,  of  Mr.  Norris  M.  Woodruff,  of  Water- 
town,  and  his  friends,  who  brought  with  them 
Loren  Soper,  an  old  fisherman  acquainted 
with  the  ground,  and  then  the  keeper  of  the 
United  States  Arsenal  at  Watertown.  There 
was  a  fascination  amid  the  scene  and  haunts 
of  nature,  in  the  wild  scenery  and  freedom 
from  the  public  gaze  in  a  jaunt  of  this  kind, 
that  a  large  river,  open  to  all  the  world,  did 
not  possess.  No  man  enjoys  reading  his 
newspaper  in  the  thronged  thoroughfares. 

In  spite  of  these  little  rivalries  of  neighbor- 
ing fishing  resorts,  Alexandria  Bay,  in  no 
spirit  of  jealousy,  abided  its  time.  The  fame 
of  its  waters  in  yielding  abundance  of  pickerel 
and  muscalonge  to  the  sportive  fishermen,  be- 
came extended  far  and  wide.  Of  the  last 
named  fish  it  was  reported  that  a  big  v^ne,  the 
real  sockdoger,  had  been  captured  by  an  ama- 
teur sportsman  from  Syracuse,  and  that  in  his 


EARLY  RECOLLECTIONS   OF  ALEXANDRIA   BAY. 


235 


a  Bay  at  the 

ikt  all  the 
preters,  had 
geny.  Oiir 
n  wife  and 
1  at  North 
:  other  coin- 
he  wedding, 
le  to  kill  the 
ir  his  deser- 
jsky  maiden 

ming  to  the 
the  adverse 
t,  for  several 
iship,  rather 
then  remote 
vith  mullet, 
king  of  the 
;ame  up  the 
esa,  and  was 
jpoon.  The 
ground,  and 
ry  lakes,  be- 
trapper  and 
quarters  for 
tackle,  came 
r  by  the  an- 

from  that 
f,  of  Water- 
It  with  them 

acquainted 
eeper  of  the 
)wn.     There 
and  haunts 
nd  freedom 
jf  this  kind, 
e  world,  did 
reading   his 
igh  fares, 
of  neighbor- 
Bay,   in    no 
The  fame 
e  of  pickerel 
shermen,  be- 
Of   the   last 
big  one,  the 
1  by  an  ama- 
d  that  in  his 


vain  glory  he  had  a  full-length  picture  of  him- 
self taken  by  an  artist,  with  the  big  fish,  held 
up  by  the  gills,  painted  by  his  side. 

In  due  time  the  Bay  became  the  resort  of 
some  famous  men,  and  it  is  but  repeating  a 
twice-told  tale  to  state  that  among  these  noted 
characters  were  Silas  Wright  and  Martin  Van 
Buren.  Of  these  two  distinguished  men,  I 
may,  in  passing,  be  permitted  to  mention  a 
phase  of  their  personal  traits.  Old  fishermen 
tell  of  the  generosity  of  Silas  Wright,  in 
quietly  slipping  into  their  hands,  on  returning 
from  a  trip,  a  liberal  "  tip,"  while  Mr.  Van 
Buren,  less  thoughtful,  to  put  it  mildly,  never 
exceeded  the  exact  sum  stipulated  in  the  con- 
tract by  dispensing  the  expected  doucer  to  his 
boatmen. 

It  is  probable  that  political  friendship,  as 
well  as  the  genial  hospitality  of  the  host, 
rather  than  the  fish,  drew  these  great  men  to 
the  Bay.  The  Waltons  stood  high  in  social 
distinction  throughout  that  section.  I  am 
speaking  from  boyhood  impressions.  They 
were  the  first  in  a  small  town,  and  in  the 
neighboring  villages  were  regarded  as  su- 
perior beings.  Their  arrival  at  Theresa  on  a 
transient  visit  produced  a  sensation,  among 
the  younger  people  especially.  The  head  of 
this  family,  Mr.  Azariah  Walton,  I  regarded 
as  a  grand  old  man,  by  whom  I  was  always 
treated  with  kindness  and  courtesy.  At  his 
store,  I  frequently  saw  his  massive  figure 
seated  behind  the  counter  employed  in 
thumping  some  refractory  substance  into  use 
for  trolling  spoons. 

The  shelves  in  the  rear  were  garnished  with 
lines,  hooks,  bright  brass  spoons  and  other 
fishing  tackle.  In  one  corner  was  seen  a  for- 
est of  fishing  poles,  some  of  these  being  sus- 
pended by  wooden  supports  overhead,  like 
the  old-time  rifle  on  hooks,  in  the  hunter's 
cabin.  In  the  winter  section,  skates  were 
suspended,  showing  that  a  demand  for  these 
articles  could  be  supplied  at  all  seasons. 

Mr.  Walton  was  collector  of  customs  for 
the  port.  He  never  disparaged  the  duties  of 
the  office,  and  spoke  with  pride  of  his  success 
in  checking  and  finally  putting  an  end  to 
smuggling,    that   formerly  prevailed    to    the 


detriment  of  the  goverment.  He  once  told  me 
that  tlie  revenue  collected  from  customs  in 
the  Cape  Vincent  district,  to  which  he  was 
attached,  exceeded  in  amount  that  collected 
in  any  other  port  of  the  United  States,  as  the 
official  figures  would  verify.  He  was  withal  a 
warm  political  partisan,  the  leading  Democrat 
in  that  section,  and  though  his  mercantile 
partner,  John  W.  Fuller,  was  a  pronounced 
Whig,  no  disputes  on  that  score  seeming  to 
disturb  their  business  relations.  But  to  his 
outside  political  opponents  he  was  not  spar- 
ing in  his  jibes  and  sarcastic  hits  at  their  ex- 
pense. With  what  unction  would  the  words 
"Whig"  and  "  Whiggery  "  roll  from  his 
tongue,  in  contemptuous  tones  and  in  utter 
depreciation  of  the  claims  of  that  young  and 
growing  party. 

In  those  anti-Masonic  and  early  Whig  days» 
the  election  was  held  on  tliree  successive  days 
in  separate  precincts.  Theresa  was  then  at- 
tached to  the  town  of  Alexandria,  and  when 
the  election  was  held  in  that  precinct, 
Mr.  Walton  always  came  up  in  full  force,  a 
dreaded  opponent,  in  his  withering  gibes,  to 
the  leading  Whigs,  Squire  Nathan  M.  Flower, 
Anson  Ranney  and  Benjamin  StiU.  The  di- 
vision of  the  town  at  length  gave  these  good 
men  a  rest.  Amid  his  multifarous  business 
and  official  duties,  Squire  Walton  found  leis- 
ure to  court  the  poetical  muse.  He  com- 
posed campaign  songs,  which  were  never 
written  out  or  read ;  one  of  these  he  recited 
to  me,  the  burden  of  which  extolled  in  the 
popular  rhymes  of  that  day,  "  The  Favorite 
Son  of  Kinderhook." 

In  closing  this  imperfect  sketch  of  a  notable 
man,  I  desire  to  add,  that  although  a  violent 
partisan,  he  was  a  patriotic  lover  of  his  coun- 
try. When  the  Mexican  war  broke  out,  he 
everywhere,  in  and  out  of  season,  denounced 
the  opposition  to  President  Polk  and  the  war, 
declaring  that  it  was  unpatriotic  in  private 
individuals  and  bar-room  ranters,  to  question 
the  right  or  wrong  of  the  war,  when  the  honor 
of  the  country  was  at  stake. 

His  eldest  son,  George  Walton,  followed  in 
the  footsteps  of  his  father,  as  a  politician,  and 
£is  his  active  life,  too  early  cut  off  by  the  fell 


236 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


destroyer,  comes  within  the  period  under 
consideration,  a  word  may  be  added.  Much 
might  be  said  in  praise  of  this  gentleman  who 
bore  "  the  mould  of  beauty  and  of  form,"  but 
one  incident  only  will  be  given,  illustrative  of 
the  times,  inhisconnection  with  "  general  train- 
ing day,"  that  great  event  of  mustering  battal- 
ions and  parody  on  grim  war,  always  looked 
forward  to  by  wondering  youths  and  ginger- 
bread-vendors as  a  gala  day,  now  gone  into 
desuetude,  and  is  only  a  memory  of  the  past. 
George  Walton  was  the  colonel  of  a  militia 
regiment ;  and  his  brother-in-law,  General 
Archibald  Fisher,  commander  of  the  brigade, 
transferred  the  general  muster,  from  Antwerp, 
where  it  assembled  from  time  immemorial,  to 
Theresa.  Col.  Walton,  as  the  ranking  officer, 
superintended  the  customary  evolutions,  and 
towards  evening  he  headed  the  perspiring 
troops  in  their  march  from  the  Cooper  farm, 
where  the  muster  was  held,  to  the  village. 
The  militia  companies  were  halted,  and  on  be- 
ing massed  in  regulation  order  for  dismissal, 
the  gallant  colonel  in  a  grandiose  speech,  not 
unmixed  with  a  quiet  undercurrent  of  humor, 
wished  the  men  a  safe  return  to  their  homes, 
their  waituig  wives  and  children,  and  capped 
the  climax  of  dismissal  by  designating  the 
brigade  as  "soldiers  of  the  great  American 
Army." 

As  if  to  add  to  the  ludicrous  character  of 
the  scene,  an  auctioneer  from  the  Quaker 
settlement,  named  Kirkbright,  who  had  been 
vending  gingerbread  during  the  day,  brought 
forward  for  sale  a  menagerie  of  wild  and  tame 
sugar  animals.  Having  disposed  of  the  ele- 
phants at  a  fair  valuation,  he  then  held  up 
between  his  thumb  and  finger  a  two-cent 
rooster,  with  red  comb  and  gills,  about  the 
size  of  a  small  ball  of  yarn.  The  bids  started 
at  one  cent,  with  no  raise  for  some  time, 
when  the  auctioneer  shouted  forth  indignantly, 
"  Soldiers  of  the  American  Army  !  How  can 
you  stand  idly  by,  with  arms  in  your  hands, 
and  see  property  thus  sacrificed  in  the  market 
place  ? " 

Recurring  to  matters  at  the  Bay,  I  once,  on 
a  visit  there,  met  with  an  enjoyable  incident, 
characteristic  of  the  chronic  characters  that 


one  frequently  meets  with.  I  was  attracted 
by  two  gentlemen  in  front  of  the  hotel,  who 
appeared  hotly  engaged  in  a  religious  discus- 
sion,—  the  one  a  skeptic  ;  the  other,  whom  I 
took  to  be  a  religious  enthusiast  by  the  warmth 
with  which  he  supp^ii...:'  his  side  of  the  argu- 
ment. Gifted  in  speech,  he  overwhelmed  his 
antagonist  with  a  torrent  of  excellent  advice, 
as  well  as  sound  argument. 

The  reverend  gentleman  proved  to  be  the 
Rev.  P.  C.  Headley,  the  author  of  a  popular 
"  Life  of  the  Empress  Josephine."  He  was 
then  quite  a  young  looking  man.  He  in- 
formed me  that  he  was  settled  in  the  ministry 
at  Adams,  Jefferson  county,  and  was  on  the 
way  to  join  his  brother.  Rev.  J.  T.  Headley, 
also  a  widely-known  author  on  war  heroes,  for 
a  trip  through  the  great  Northern  woods, 
then,  as  may  be  remembered,  unvexed  by 
the  Rev.  Adirondack  Murray  and  his  fellow 
tourists.  Mr.  Headley  turned  out  to  be  a 
most  genial  companion,  full  of  animal  spirits, 
and  ready  to  indulge  in  boat  excursions  and 
other  pastimes,  except  playing  billiards,  then 
a  favorite  amusement  among  the  frequenters 
of  the  place. 

A  boat  party  was  made  up  to  sail  among 
the  islands,  with  Mr.  Ed.  Tanner,  collector  of 
the  port,  in  charge.  We  trolled  up  the 
streams,  and  encountering  a  squall,  landed  on 
a  nameless  island.  While  there,  a  large  sail 
boat,  it  might  be  called  a  yacht,  also  landed 
on  the  island,  driven  in  by  stress  of  weather. 
An  elderly,  sturdy-looking  man  came  on  shore 
and  looked  anxiously  around.  The  new- 
comer proved  to  be  the  famous  Bill  Johnston, 
whose  name  became  linked  with  the  Thousand 
Islands. 

He  wore  a  blouse,  a  plain-looking  old  gentle- 
man, with  strong  features  and  an  expression  of 
determination  about  the  mouth.  Otherwise  he 
would  be  taken  for  a  very  ordinary  farmer,  in 
general  appearance.  He  was  rather  reticent 
and  conversed  in  a  low  tone  of  voice,  as  is 
usual  in  men  supposed  to  have  some  great 
secrets  locked  up  in  the  breast.  He  was  a 
man  just  to  Mr.  Headley's  hand,  who  pumped 
the  old  gentleman  as  to  the  history  of  the 
islands  and  his  connection  with  them  during 


EARLY  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  ALEXANDRIA   BAY. 


237 


attracted 
lotel,  who 
as  discus- 
•,  whom  I 
tie  warmth 

the  argu- 
lelmed  his 
nt  advice, 

to  be  the 

a  popular 
'  He  was 
He  in- 
le  ministry 
i^as  on  the 
'.  Headley, 
heroes,  for 
;rn  woods, 
nvexed    by 

his  fellow 
It  to  be  a 
mal  spirits, 
irsions  and 
iliards,  then 

frequenters 

sail  among 
collector  of 
|led  up  the 
,  landed  on 
a  large  sail 

Iso  landed 
of  weather. 

e  on  shore 
The  new- 

1  Johnston, 
Thousand 

;  old  gentle- 
tpression  of 
btherwise  he 
ly  farmer,  in 
^er  reticent 
[voice,  as  is 
Isome  great 
He  was  a 
[ho  pumped 
[ory  of  the 
lem  during 


the  late  troubles.  Johnston,  meantime,  had  a 
far-away  look,  his  mind  reverting  to  his  boat 
and  the  condition  of  the  weather.  After  the 
detention  of  a  couple  of  hours  we  parted,  on  a 
lull  in  the  gale. 

Before  the  extension  of  telegraph  lines,  and 
with  limited  postal  connections  inland,  the 
people  of  the  Bay  were  behind  their  neighbors 
in  getting  the  news.  But  this  was  not  always 
the  case,  very  important  news  reaching  there 
by  river  in  advanceof  the  neighboring  villages. 
An  instance  may  be  given.  About  the  12th 
of  July,  1850,  ^ioing  with  a  party  to  the  Bay, 
when  arrived  witnin  three  miles  of  the  place, 
we  met  old  Ezra  Cornwall,  father  of  George 
W.  Cornwall  of  Theresa,  coming  up  the  road 
on  foot,  who  imparted  the  intelligence  that 
General  Taylor,  President  of  the  United  States, 
was  dead.  The  news  was  received  at  the  Bay 
by  steamer  from  Oswego,  and  was  unknown  at 
Theresa  until  obtained  from  this  source. 

My  last  visit  to  Alexandria  Bay  was  in  1867, 
when,  after  the  absence  of  some  years,  great 
changes  in  the  aspect  of  the  town  were  visible. 
Two  hotels,  the  renowned  Crossmon  House, 
widely  known,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  Hotel, 
kept  by  Edward  Fay  el,  assisted  by  his  sister, 
Mrs.  Sophia  Spalsbury,  were  in  operation. 
Since  then  a  greater  change,  amounting  to  a 
perfect  "transformation  scene,"  has  super- 
vened, supplementing  the  wonders  of  natural 
beauty  with  the  improvements  suggested  by 
unsparing  wealth,  art  and  taste.  But  despite 
all  these  enchanting  improvements,  effected  by 
man,  the  great  natural  features  of  rocky  islands 
and  glorious  river  will  stand  unaltered  till  the 
end  of  tim.e. 

JoNA  iHAN  Thompson. 

Among  the  earliest  to  forsee  and  urge  the 
advantages  of  the  Thousand  Islands  as  a  re- 
sort for  pleasure  seekers,  and  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  hotel  to  entertain  them,  was 
doubtless  Jonathan  Thompson,  of  Theresa. 
Thompson  was  a  genial  character,  quaint  in 
speech,  or  rather  of  cute  sayings,  a  harmless 
romancer  with  a  brain  fertile  in  projects.  He 
was  a  man  past  middle  age,  buoyant  in  hope  as 
a  grown-up  boy,  had  seen  something  of  the 


world,  and,  in  fact,  among  his  early  expe- 
riences, had  "  gone  out "  with  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys  in  September,  1814.  In 
working  up  his  scheme  he  had  visited  the 
islands,  selected  one  of  the  group  to  erect  a 
fishermen's  resort  upon.  But  the  time  had  not 
come  for  the  realization  of  such  an  enterprise. 
Other  more  favorable  and  fortuitous  circum- 
stances had  to  arise  before  the  scheme  could 
become  practicable.  Thompson  world  have 
made  a  good  second  to  a  man  of  financial 
ability ;  a  good  chief  of  a  restaurant,  and  a 
capital  entertainer  of  guests. 

A  few  years  before  this  time,  Thompson 
had  pit  jhed  upon  one  of  the  most  romantic 
little  lakes,  situated  between  the  Indian  and 
St.  Lawrence  rivers,  much  nearer  the  first 
named  stream,  as  a  home,  which  he  intended 
to  improve.  It  was  an  expanse  of  clear, 
limpid  water,  nestled  among  wood-crowned 
shores,  six  miles  from  any  settlement.  It  had 
lost  its  Indian  name,  the  lake  being  on  the 
main  water  route  followed  by  the  Canadian 
Indians  during  the  French  and  Indian  War, 
and  up  to  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  in  their 
predatory  incursions  to  the  Dutch  settlements 
on  the  Mohawk.  In  recent  times  the  hulks 
of  their  abandoned  boats  could  be  seen  lying 
deep  through  the  clear  water  on  the  lake 
bottom.  It  was  known  as  Lake  of  the  Woods, 
latterly  as  Thompson'  ■  Lake,  from  the  new  pro- 
prietor, and  was  three  miles  in  length  north 
and  south,  and  from  one  mile  and  a  half  to 
half  a  mile  in  breadth. 

In  a  spirit  of  enterprise  and  unbounded 
hopes  that  inspired  visionary  schemes, 
Thompson  pre-empted  a  few  acres,  near  the 
western  cove,  which  a  squatter  had  cleared  up 
and  abandoned,  leaving  his  deserted  log  cabin 
among  the  assets  of  the  place.  On  obtaining 
possession,  his  original  design  was  to  stock  the 
ranch  with  geese,  as  his  flocks  would  have 
the  unlimited  privilege,  like  himself,  of  the 
lake.  But,  owing  to  a  change  in  domestic 
economy  (except  among  the  blanket  Indians, 
who  still  adhered  to  skins  for  bed  clothing), 
feather  beds  began  to  be  discarded,  and  a  de- 
mand for  feathers  consequently  ceased.  He, 
therefore,    was    compelled    "  to    feather    his 


238 


A   SOUVENIR   OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


I* 


nest  "  in  some  other  more  profitable  product. 
Whereupon,  like  Thoreau,  the  hermit  of  Wal- 
don  Pond,  he  determined  to  cultivated  a  bean 
patch,  finally  adding  to  his  agricultural  opera- 
tions crops  of  potatoes,  cabbage  and  cucum- 
bers. On  an  adjoining  little  islet,  that  rose 
like  a  wart  above  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  the 
only  excrescence  of  the  kind  that  fretted  the 
npples  into  complaining  murmurs,  he  erected 
X  house  of  primitive  accommodation.  In  its 
construction,  he  was  ably  assisted  by  a 
Watertown  journalist  (John  Fayel),  who, 
seeking  recuperation  for  brcKen  health,  found 
pleasant  recreation  in  the  exercise  of  his  con- 
structive talents  upon  very  scant  materials. 
Poles  were  ferried  across  from  the  opposite 
beach,  and  the  deserted  log-cabin  of  the 
squatter  was  dismantled  of  its  boards,  shin- 
gles, nails  and  window  sash,  to  supply  the 
needed  material.  That  house  was  a  "  daisy," 
and  ranked  with  the  common  shanty  in  archi- 
tectural adornment,  having  a  door  swung  on 
hinges,  and  a  window  to  admit  the  light.  It 
was  a  large  single  barrack-like  room,  and  for 
years  became  also  the  sleeping  apartment  of 
tired  pleasure-seekers,  who,  rolled  up  in  their 
blankets  on  the  board  floor,  were  lulled  to 
sleep  by  the  monotonous  chafing  of  the  ripples 
on  the  beach. 

Meantime,  chance  visitors  to  the  lake  re- 
turned with  enchanting  descriptions  of  its  va- 
ried beauties.  Mr.  Thompson,  on  his  return 
to  tiie  village,  exhausted  the  vocabulary  of 
adjectives  in  extolling  its  wonders.  It  was 
"  the  land  of  promise  "  spoken  of  in  the  Scrip- 
tures, the  original  "  Fountain  of  Youth," 
sought  after  by  De  Soto,  "  the  loveliest  spot 
under  the  canopy,"  to  use  his  favorite  ex- 
pression. ]n  truth,  his  representations  could 
not  well  exaggerate  the  admitted  beauties  of 
the  lake  and  wild  surroundings.    ■ 

Curiosity  was  worked  up  to  a  high  pitch, 
and  to  gratify  it  by  actual  realization,  an  expe- 
dition was  fitted  out,  composed  of  some  twenty 
or  thirty  citizens,  who  descended  the  river  in 
boats.  Mr.  Thompson  took  the  lead  alone  in 
his  little  canoe,  ballasted  with  a  few  sacks  of 
provisions.  As  commodore  of  the  fleet,  he 
issued   instructions,   and    paddled    ahead,    a 


happy  man,  not  unmindful  of  his  glory. 
From  long  experience  he  became  a  marvel  in 
handling  a  paddle,  which  he  did  as  dediy  as 
an  Indian.  He  protested  against  a  useless 
waste  of  power  and  misapplied  movements  of 
the  arm  in  paddling.  "  Never,"  said  he,  "dip 
the  paddle  too  far  ahead,  as  the  force  would 
then  be  expended  in  lifting  up  the  keel  of  the 
boat,  but  when  the  paddle  falls  in  a  perpen- 
dicular line  with  the  rower's  body,  then  the 
back-push  against  the  resisting  medium  gave 
the  only  impulse  forward  to  the  boat."  In 
his  progress,  to  show  off  his  dexterity  and 
knowledge  of  the  river,  he  sometimes  cut 
across  a  bend,  through  rushes  and  over  lilly- 
pads,  thereby  avoiding  a  long  detour  in  keep- 
ing to  the  currents.  About  seven  miles  down 
the  river  a  landing  was  made  for  a  march  of 
three  miles  over  the  carrying  place  to  the  foot 
of  the  lake.  The  landing  place  was  designa- 
ted by  a  beacon  seen  from  a  long  distance 
above,  consisting  of  the  stub  of  a  big  tree  on 
the  bluff,  which  had  been  splintered  by  a 
thunderbolt.  From  the  landing  place  to  the 
lake,  the  labors  of  the  traverse  commenced, 
sometimes  through  tkickets  and  underbrush, 
over  fallen  logs,  and  across  swails  and  quag- 
mires; but  a  portion  of  the  route  was  unob- 
structed. The  men  started  cheerily  forward, 
lugging  paddles,  fishing  poles,  and  sacks  of 
flour,  salt  pork  and  other  supplies  of  the  com- 
missary department.  Thompson  took  the  lead 
as  generalissimo  of  the  expedition  overland, 
limping  briskly  forward,  shouting  words  of 
encouragement,  and  ready  to  diverge  from  the 
route  to  show  up  some  remarkable  scenery; 
in  one  of  these,  for  instance,  from  the  brink 
of  a  precipice,  was  seen,  spread  out  beneath,  a 
vast  marsh,  carpeted  with  moss,  extending  for 
miles  towards  the  river. 

Arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  a  halt  was 
called,  when  the  generalissimo  expatiated  on 
the  wonders  of  the  scene  soon  to  open  on  the 
astonished  gaze.  To  many  minds,  striking 
images,  thus  presented  to  the  imagination, 
through  the  ear,  even  when  conveyed  through 
the  medium  of  gushing,  bloviating  rhetoric, 
leave  a  stronger  impression  than  when  con- 
veyed to  t'.e  eye  by  careless  observation. 


EARLY  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  ALEXANDRIA   BAY. 


239 


is    glory, 
marvel  in 
delcly  as 
a  useless 
enients  of 
I  he,  "dip 
rce  would 
:eel  of  the 
a  perpen- 
r,  then  the 
iium  gave 
)oat."     In 
terity   and 
jtimes  cut 
over  lilly- 
ir  in  keep- 
niles  down 
I  march  of 
to  the  foot 
.s  designa- 
g  distance 
big  tree  on 
ered  by   a 
)lace  to  the 
ommenced, 
inderbrush, 
and  quag- 
was  unob- 
y  forward, 
sacks  of 
of  the  com- 
)ok  the  lead 
overland, 
words  of 
ge  from  the 
e  scenery; 
1  the  brink 
beneath,  a 
tending  for 

a  halt  was 
satiated  on 
pen  on  the 
ds,  striking 
pagination, 
ed  through 
g  rhetoric, 
when  con- 
ration. 


At  the  place  of  embarkation  on  the  lake 
there  was  but  one  canoe  and  two  leaky  skiffs 
to  take  the  party  to  the  Island  House,  the 
terminus  of  their  toils.  When  tired  and  hungry, 
curiosity  lags,  and  the  most  romantic  scenery 
loses  its  charm.  The  party  divided,  some 
passing  up  one  side  and  others  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  to  the  nearest  point,  until  Mr. 
Thompson,  having  landed  the  first  installment 
from  the  boats,  could  cross  over  and  take  them 
to  the  island.  The  shouts  of  the  men  in  their 
slow  progress  along  the  heavily  wooded  shores. 


the  Sabbath  day,  hundreds  of  visitors  flocked 
to  the  lake,  some  to  fish,  but  mostly  others  to 
gather  huckle  (whortle)  berries,  blue-berries 
and  raspberries,  which  abounded  in  their 
proper  season  on  the  bluffs  and  in  the  swamps; 
but  Mr.  Thompson  received  little  or  no  reve- 
nue from  these  people,  who  accepted  his  hos- 
pitality rather  as  friends  than  as  paying  guests. 
The  lake  abounded  in  black  bass,  a  most 
edible  fish.  He  had  a  favorite  spot,  a  head- 
land, for  catching  them,  and  having  captured 
a  lot  of  small  frogs  for  bait  in  the  damp  grass 


AN   ICE-BOAT,    WINTER    OF    l895-g6. 


and  the  responsive  shouts  irom  the  opposite 
side,  kept  up  continuously  for  several  hours, 
startled  the  three  loons  seen  sailing  on  the 
lake,  causing  the  bewildered  birds  to  tack  from 
one  point  to  the  other,  for  no  such  yells  had 
stirred  up  the  wild  varmints  in  that  region 
since  the  ancient  war-whoop  was  sounded  by 
the  Indian  warriors  that  passed  through  on 
their  scalping  expeditions. 

In  the  course  of  time  boating  facilities  were 
increased,  and  some  days,  more  particularly  on 


the  evening  before,  at  dawn  would  paddle  out 
in  his  canoe,  that  could  be  seen  courtseying  in 
the  distance  like  a  dark  bubble,  and  returning 
with  "  the  beauties,"  as  he  called  them,  had 
them  served  up  for  breakfast.  On  rainy  days 
he  rowed  to  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  where  the 
deep  water  was  filled  with  the  branches  of  dead 
cedar  trees  that  had  fallen  in,  and  rowing 
slowly  along,  in  perhaps  two  hours'  time,  he 
would  return  with  the  bottom  of  his  boat 
covered  by  the  flopping  beauties. 


240 


A  SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


5|» 


He  had  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  habits 
of  fish  —  those  shrinking  creatures  best  studied 
when  out  of  their  native  element.  Of  birds 
and  beasts,  he  also  possessed  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  their  habits  and  instincts.  Re- 
garding the  loons,  to  which  reference  has 
been  made,  he  believed  with  old  hunters  that 
they  could  not  be  killed  by  a  rifle  while  on  the 
water,  though  he  would  not  permit  the  experi- 
ment to  be  tried  upon  the  loons  that  frequented 
his  lake.  The  tradition  concerning  these 
wary  birds  is  that  they  can  dodge  a  bullet  after 
seeing  the  flash,  for  instantly  diving  down, 
they  remain  for  some  time  under  water,  and 
emerge  to  the  surface  a  long  distance  from 
the  spot  where  they  went  under.  Thompson 
said  he  could  predict  a  change  of  weather 
from  the  movements  of  his  loons.  It  was  ob- 
served that  owing  to  their  heavy  conforma- 
tion they  could  not  rise  in  a  calm  much  above 
the  surface  of  the  lake,  and  when  inclined  to 
change  their  present  habitat,  they  flew  against 
the  wind,  which  lifted  them  above  the  woods, 
thus  affording  an  exit  beyond  their  old  prison 
limits. 

He  declared  that  his  loons,  before  a  storm, 
would  sail  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  when 
the  south  wind  blew  they  would  rise,  and, 
flapping  their  wings,  seem  to  walk  on  the 
water,  but  rising  gradually,  the  wind  buoying 
them  upward  higher  and  higher,  until  they 
reached  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  three  miles 
distant  from  the  place  of  starting,  they  would 
attain  such  an  elevation  as  to  clear  the  highest 
trees,  and,  thus  regaining  their  freedom,  seek 
"  fresh   fields   and   pastures   new."      He   re- 


marked the  curious  fact  that  though  they 
could  dodge  a  bullet  on  the  wave,  they  could 
not  dodge  a  tree  in  a  calm. 

Talking  about  the  instincts  of  animals,  he 
once  remarked  on  a  curious  habit  of  the  bears, 
On  a  heavily  wooded  ridge  along  the  west 
side  of  the  lake,  there  was  a  certain  tree  that 
on  one  side  was  deeply  gashed,  as  if  made  by 
some  huge  gnawing  inimal.  It  would  heal 
over  for  a  time,  like  the  scar  made  on  a  maple 
tree  by  the  sugar-tapper's  axe,  and  then  it 
would  exhibit  a  freshened  appearance,  like 
the  re-opening  of  an  old  wound. 

This  peculiar  phenomenon,  old  hunters  de- 
clare, was  the  work  of  bears.  It  was  a  guide- 
post  to  them  in  their  journeys,  the  same  as 
blazed  trees  were  to  any  backwoodsman.  The 
bears,  in  traversing  the  woods  from  Canada  to 
the  great  northern  wilderness,  thus  left  their 
mark  as  a  guide  to  the  other  bears  which  fol- 
lowed them  on  the  same  path.  Each  bear  in 
passing  would  stand  on  his  plantigrade  feet, 
gnaw  out  a  fresh  chunk,  to  be  freshened  up 
by  his  successors,  and  thus  the  great  bear- 
route,  a  genuine  international  line,  was  kept 
open. 

I  once  asked  Prof.  Ebenezer  Emmons,  the 
geologist  of  our  district,  his  opinion  as  to  the 
truth  of  the  statement.  The  eminent  naturalist 
rather  doubted  the  explanation,  and  attributed 
gnawing  of  the  tree  to  the  rutting  season  of 
those  animals. 

As  the  novelty  of  Mr.  Thompson's  kind  of 
life  wore  away  he  turned  his  eye  to  the 
Thousand  Islands  with  the  outcome  as  before 
stated. 


J^    J^ 


hough    they 
they  could 

animals,  he 
)f  the  bears, 
ig  the  west 
in  tree  that 
if  made  by 
would  heal 
on  a  maple 
and  then  it 
irance,   like 

hunters  de- 
ltas a  guide- 
he  same  as 
Isman.  The 
1  Canada  to 
iS  left  their 
s  which  fol- 
lach  bear  in 
igrade  feet, 
■eshened  up 
great  bear- 
e,  was   kept 

mmons,  the 
m  as  to  the 
It  naturalist 
d  attributed 
g  season  of 

n's  kind  of 
eye  to  the 
le  as  before 


77/A'   C7L'LF  OF  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


341 


THE   GULF    OF 

IT  may  happen  that  this  book  will  fall  into 
the  hands  of  some  one  who  is  more  than  o 
mere  pleasure-seeker  among  the  Thousand 
Islands,  who  shall  desire  to  know  more  of  the 
ocean  end  of  tlie  great  St.  Lawrence  river, 
which  flows  down  through  the  finest  scenery 
in  the  world,  from  grand  Lakes  Superior  and 
Michigan,  through  Huron,  St.  Clair,  Erie  and 
Ontario  — 

"  Vast  lakes,  which  float  the  grain  and  ore 
Of  mighty  States  from  shore  to  shore, 
A  thousand  billowy  miles  and  more." 

If  the  reader  be  sutjh  an  one,  he  will  be  glad 
when  told  that  the  author  of  this  Souvenir  is 
one  of  the  few  whom  he  may  meet  who  has 
traversed  the  whole  Gulf,  even  from  Labrador, 
Belle  Isle  and  Newfoundland,  up  to  Quebec. 

Passing  by  the  many  interesting  towns  be- 
low Quebec,  and  reserving  for  another  article 
the  journey  up  the  grand  Saguenay,  as  well  as 
a  description  of  some  of  the  delightful  summer 
resorts  where  the  fashion  and  beauty  of  Lower 
Canada  disport  themselves  during  the  short 
but  warm  Northern  summer  months,  we  will 
pass  down  the  great  river  straight  to  Anticosti 
island  (some  400  miles  below  Quebec)  where 
the  Canadian  authoritier;  maintain  a  light- 
house. It  is  almost  a  barren  island,  but  the 
time  will  come  in  the  not  distant  future  when 
its  size  and  location  will  make  it  an  important 
spot,  perhaps  a  summer  resort.  It  lies  in  the 
Gulf,  longest  from  west  to  east,  but  is  so  much 
nearer  the  north  shore  of  the  Gulf  as  to  be 
readily  passed  unobserved  by  vessels  travers- 
ing the  center  of  that  wide  roadstead.  By 
bearing  north  by  east  from  Anticosti  you 
would  reach  Labrador  at  the  straits  of  Belle 
Isle,  after  sailing  about  450  miles.  But  it  is 
not  in  that  direction  we  will  now  conduct  the 
reader,  though  one  who  has  a  summer  to  spend 
and  don't  care  much  where  he  spends  it,  two 
months  on  Labrador  would  be  wholly  unique 
and  perhaps  interesting.  It  is  a  land  without 
a  local  government,  being  so  far  away  and  so 
essentially  uninviting  as  not  to  be  worth  the 


ST.    LAWRENCE. 

cost  to  Canada  of  maintaining  courts,  or  those 
other  formulas  by  which  civilization  is  sup- 
posed to  be  advanced.  But  Canada  maintains 
light-houses  there.  The  writer  made  some 
good  friends  on  Labrador  in  his  youthful 
days,  and  recalls  that  region  by  many  pleasant 
memories. 

But  we  will  bear  south  by  east  from  Anti- 
costi,  traversing  the  wide  Gulf  of  which  every 
one  has  doubtless  heard,  but  few  are  aware  of 
the  attractions  it  offers  to  the  tourist  and 
artist.  Even  to  those  who  have  given  it  much 
thought  it  is  generally  regarded  as  a  region  of 
mists  and  storms,  and  more  or  less  enveloped 
in  hyperborean  gloom.  But  recently  sports- 
men and  yacht  sailors  have  begun  to  visit  the 
southwestern  shores  of  the  Gulf,  and  the  sum- 
mer rambler  finds  that  this  part  of  the  world 
has  been  more  or  less  maligned,  and  that  dur- 
ing July  and  August  it  offers  a  variety  of  at- 
tractions hitherto  almost  unknown.  To  make 
clear  our  idea  we  will  take  the  reader  into  one 
town,  upon  one  of  the  main  islands  of  the 
great  Gulf. 

If  the  traveller  were  to  desire  to  cruise 
around  a  part  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
and  should  make  Charlottetown,  Prince  Ed- 
ward's Island,  his  starting  point,  he  would  be 
in  a  situation  to  get  a  vast  amount  of  real 
pleasure  from  his  journeyings. 

Tuesdays  and  Fridays  are  the  days  when 
Charlottetown  shows  the  most  evidence  of 
activity  and  commercial  prosperity.  In  the 
square  where  the  government  buildings  are 
located  may  be  found  the  market-house.  On 
these  days  it  is  crowded  by  both  the  town  and 
country  folk,  and  among  the  latter  will  be 
found  now  and  then  an  Indian.  An  active 
barter  for  provisions  is  kept  up  for  a  greater 
part  of  the  day.  But  this  delightful  town  is 
not  what  it  once  was.  The  Dominion  govern- 
ment has  made  such  drastic  laws  that  nearly 
all  the  American  fishermen  have  been  driven 
away  from  these  waters,  where  their  enterprise 
and  industry  once  made  business  lively.  Thus 
the  goose  has  been  nearly  killed  that  laid  the 


242 


./   SOl/yEN//i   OF    THE  ST.   Ul  WRENCH  RIVER. 


\* 


golden    eggs,  and  places  like   Charlottetown 
suffer  from  unwise  legislation. 

In  Summer,  Prince  Edward  Island  enjoys  a 
delightful  temperature,  the  mercury  ranging 
for  about  three  months  from  60  to  76°.  The 
air  is  dry  and  almost  entirely  free  from  fogs, 
and  as  the  winds  inevitably  come  off  the  sea, 
the  island  is  very  healthful,  nearly  all  the  old 
people  being  obliged  to  move  away  to  die. 
The  island  has  peculiar  advantages  for  summer 
visitors  from  the  liberal  supply  and  the  com- 
parative cheapness  of  all  kinds  of  country 
produce.  Personal  pleasure  is  enhanced  by 
the  lovely  drives  in  every  direction  over  a 
country  that  is  gently  undulating  and  always 
in  sight  of  the  sea.  The  rivers,  notably  the 
Dunk,  the  Hunter  and  the  Morell,  abound  with 
fine  salmon  and  trout,  and  the  long  reaches  of 
land  along  the  easterly  shore  are  frequented 
by  snipe,  plover  and  duck  resting  there  on 
their  journeys  northward  or  southward.  At 
Rustico  and  Arcadie  the  summer  landlord  is 
much  in  evidence,  and  there  the  best  accom- 
modations can  be  found.  And  it  is  in  the 
flitting  thitherward  of  the  migratory  summer 
visitor,  with  pockets  full  of  gold,  that  the 
islanders  may  look  for  the  return  of  that  pros- 
perity driven  away  by  the  laws  which  shut  out 
American  fishermen  from  neighboring  waters. 

The  facilities  for  observing  the  unique 
scenery  of  Prince  Edward  Island  are  much 
enhanced  by  the  narrow-gauge  railroad,  kept 
up  by  the  Dominion  government,  but  which 
does  not  yet  repay  expenses.  Lobster  canning 
has  also  assumed  con-.Iderable  dimensions 
upon  the  island,  but  it  can  hardly  be  classed 
as  a  stable  or  certain  industry,  for  these  homely 
crustaceans  cannot  be  altogether  depended 
upon.  Singular  as  it  may  appear,  they  take  no 
interest  whatever  in  the  philanthropic  designs 
of  capitalists  and  fishermen  to  ship  them  to 
market  in  elegantly  labeled  tin  cases,  and  de- 
clining to  co-operate  in  these  schemes,  they 
have  a  disagreeable  way  of  remaining  away  ut 
seasons  when  anxiously  expected. 

Gazing  over  the  pleasant  landscapes  and 
breathing  the  ozone-laden  air  at  Prince  Edward 
Island,  one  hardly  comprehends  that  for 
many  months  the  island  is  covered  with  snow 


to  an  enormous  depth,  but  is  also  shut  out 
from  the  rest  of  the  world  by  a  tremendous 
barrier  of  ice.  From  January  to  May,  North- 
umberland Strait  is  frozen  over.  The  mails 
are  carried  across  at  the  narrowest  part,  near 
Cape  Tormentine  or  Jourimain,  a  distance  ot 
nine  miles.  The  carriers  drag  a  boat  over  the 
hummocks  of  ice,  the  boat  being  provided 
with  runners  like  a  sleigh.  When  they  come 
to  open  water  they  launch  the  boat.  It  is  an 
arduous  and  perhaps  dangerous  journey,  and 
the  mail  carriers  have  few  passengers.  Were 
it  not  for  this  prolonged  hybernation  and 
being  shut  out  from  the  rest  of  the  world 
amidst  immense  bodies  of  snow,  Prince 
Edward  Island  would  be  a  veritable  paradise. 

Money  goes  a  great  way  upon  this  island, 
for  it  is  scarce.  The  people  are  mostly  of 
Scotch  descent,  but  there  is  still  a  remnant  of 
the  Mic-mac  tribe  of  Indians  occupying  a 
reservation  on  Indian  island  in  Richmond 
Bay.  There  are  some  descendants  of  the 
original  Acadian  French  yet  upon  the 
island,  about  P.ustico  and  Ingowich,  These 
are  farmers.  They  have  a  convent  at  the  lat- 
ter place.  But  the  Highland  Scotch  are  far 
the  most  numerous  people  upon  Prince  Ed- 
ward Island.  They  came  originally  from  the 
Hebrides,  driven  away  by  the  religious  oppres- 
sion of  the  lairds.  They  have  increased  and 
multiplied.  Nearly  half  of  the  inhabitants 
are  Roman  Catholics,  though  there  are  many 
Protestant  Scotch.  They  are  more  than 
usually  tolerant  towards  each  others'  religious 
views. 

A  region  so  remote  as  Prince  Edward 
Island  and  shut  in  for  seven  months  of  the 
year  from  the  "  wide,  wide  world,"  must  of 
necessity  produce  many  unique  characters. 
One  of  the  most  prominent  families  upon  the 
island  is  that  of  James  Yeo,  who  accumulated 
a  large  fortune  in  shipbuilding.  His  sons 
were  in  the  Dominion  parliament.  He  came 
out  from  England  as  a  cabin  boy,  and  the 
rough  school  in  which  he  was  bred  marked 
his  character  and  his  speech.  He  once  lost  a 
brig,  and  three  of  the  crew  perished.  Allud- 
ing to  the  misfortune  he  lamented  :  "  Poor 
things — two  souls  gone  and  one   Irishman." 


A    SUMMER  IXSriTUTK   AT   THOUSAND   ISLAND  PARK. 


HI 


\o  shut   out 
remendous 
lay,  Nortli- 
The  mails 
t  part,  near 
distance  of 
at  over  the 
I   provided 
they  come 
t.     It  is  an 
lirney,  and 
ers.     Were 
lation    and 
the  world 
w,     Prince 
e  paradise, 
his   island, 
mostly  of 
emnant  of 
cupying  a 
Richmond 
Its   of   the 
jpon      the 
;h.     These 
at  the  lat- 
:h    are  far 
'rince  Ed- 
'  from  the 
us  oppres- 
eased  and 
ihabitants 
are  many 
lore    than 
i'  religious 

e  Edward 

hs  of  the 

must  of 

:haracters. 

upon   the 

cumulated 

His  sons 

He  came 

,  and   the 

d    marked 

>nce  lost  a 

1.     Allud- 

i:    "Poor 

irishman." 


We  ought  to  mention,  historically,  that 
Prince  Edward  Island  was  discovered  by 
Cabot,  who  called  it  St.  John's  Island,  which 
name  it  retained  until  1800.  Verrazzino  took 
possession  of  it  for  France  as  early  as  1523 — 
473  years  ago.  The  island  became  British  by 
the  treaty  of  Fontainbleau. 

We  have  thus  very  briefly  sketched  one 
town  upon  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
enumerated  one  island.  There  are  many 
islands  of  more  or  less  repute  and  population, 
and  there  are  other  towns.  Had  we  space  we 
would  take  the  reader  further  east — to  New 
Brunswick,  Paspebiac,  the  Bay  of  Gaspe, 
Nova  Scotia,  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs,  the  Mag- 
dalen Islands,  the  Gut  of  Cansu  and  far- 
away Newfoundland.  What  we  have  said 
may  open  the  eyes  of  some  traveller  to  the 
fact  that  the  regions  upon  the  southeast  side 


of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  are  not  uninvit- 
ing, nor  inhabited  by  savages.  There  are  de- 
lightful places  of  sojourn  in  summer,  with  the 
best  fishing  in  the  world,  and  the  least  expen- 
sive living  if  we  take  quality  and  quantity  into 
account.  We  know  of  no  place  where  the 
people  are  more  healthy,  hospitable  and  in- 
dependent. Individual  and  unique  charac- 
ters are  plentiful,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  a 
region  where  man  is  cast  mainly  upon  his  own 
resources.  While  not  learned,  they  are  pecu- 
liarly practical,  possessing  that  kind  of  ability 
which  makes  the  most  of  every  surrounding, 
and  forces  nature  itself  to  yield  to  the  indus- 
trious persistence  of  man.  We  can  but  ex- 
press again  our  regret  that  our  limited  space 
precludes  further  reference  this  year  to  this 
most  interesting  section  of  British  North 
America. 


A  SUMMER  INSTITUTE  ESTABLISHED  AT  THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 


/S^MONG  the  bills  signed  by  Governor 
«  1  Morton  is  one  providing  for  three 
summer  institutes  to  be  held  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  State  Superintendent  of  Public 
Instruction. 

Superintendent  Skinner  has  located  one  of 
these  schools  at  Thousand  Island  Park,  St. 
Lawrence  river,  to  be  held  from  July  15th  to 
August  7th,  1896,  inclusive.  It  is  the  inten- 
tion that  this  institute  shall  rank  with  that 
which  has  been  held  for  several  years  at 
Chautauqua  and  at  Glens  Falls,  each  of  which 
has  had  a  very  large  attendance  of  teachers. 
The  superior  facilities  of  Thousand  Island 
Park  and  upon  the  adjoining  islands,  the 
beauty  of  the  river,  its  matchless  scenery  and 
bracing  air,  should  make  it  one  of  the  most 


attractive  places  in  the  State  for  an  institute, 
and  the  teachers  of  the  northern  portion  of 
the  State  who  have  been  remote  from  these 
facilities  so  long  will,  without  doubt,  attend 
in  large  numbers.  Arrangements  are  made 
for  cottages  for  those  teachers  who  may  desire 
to  organize  a  club  and  provide  their  own 
home,  thus  combining  a  pleasant  vacation  at 
one  of  the  healthiest  summer  resorts  on  the 
continent  with  the  advantages  of  instruction 
by  many  of  the  most  prominent  school  men 
in  the  United  States. 

It  is  confidently  expected  that  this  insti- 
tute will  become  a  permanent  matter  at  Thou- 
sand Island  Park  or  at  Murray  Hill  Park,  the 
new  resort  which  has  come  into  prominence  in 
1896,  and  gives  promise  of  a  great  future. 


A  FEW  "DON'TS"  FOR  EXCURSIONISTS. 


Don't  be  in  too  great  a  hurry,  you  will  get 
along  easier. 

Don't  rush  to  get  on  board  the  steamer 
until  the  passengers  are  off,  and  then  you  can 
get  on  board  without  rushing. 


Don't  push,  and  jam,  and  crowd,  either  in 
going  ashore  or  aboard ;  you  only  hinder  and 
delay. 

Don't  stop  to  gossip  on  the  gang-plank,  it 
blocks  the  passage  and  delays  others. 


244 


A   SOUVENfR  OF    THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


\, 


A    PARTIAL   VIEW   OF    MURRAY    IIII.L    HOTEL, 


MURRAY  HILL  HOTEL  AND  PARK. 


jURING  the  whole  season  of  1895  visi- 
tors to  the  Thousand  Islands  were  sur- 
prised to  see  the  vast  piles  of  lumber,  timber 
and  building  material  being  collected  on  the 
head  of  Hemlock  Island,  just  at  the  entrance 
to  Eel  Bay,  and  at  a  point  where  a  bold  back 
ground  had  given  away  to  a  breadth  of  shore 
that  seemed  to  invite  a  stately  building.  All 
summer  long  a  great  array  of  work-people 
were  kept  there,  and  at  last  the  object  of  all 
this  labor  and  material  was  manifest  in  a  great 
hotel,  four  stories  high,  over  300  feet  long, 
and  containing  rooms  for  500  guests.  When 
snow  began  to  fall  this  noble  building  was 
turned  over  by  the  contractor  to  the  proprie- 
tors, and  it  has  been  fitted  up  with  every 
appliance  that  taste  and  comfort  can  require, 
and  there  has  sprung  into  existence,  without 
any  great  amount  of  advertising  or  newpaper 
mention  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete 
hotels  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  river. 

The  public  owe  this  grand  improvement 
to  the  organizing  mind  of  Mr.  A.  Corbin,  Jr., 
of  Gouverneur,  and  to  the  indefatigable  in- 
dustry and  activity  of  Capt.  '*  Jack  "  Taylor, 


the  original  proprietor  of  Hemlock  Island, 
for  which  he  once  recklessly  paid  ^100  in 
cash  and  a  second-hand  shot-gun.  The 
island  could  not  now  be  bought  for  $100,000. 
But  no  matter  who  bought  the  island  or  built 
the  hotel,  there  they  stand  "in  evidence," 
with  surroundings  the  most  enduring  and 
beautiful  on  the  river.  These  are  the  points 
the  visitor  is  interested  in,  and  they  form  the 
attractive  influences  which  will  draw  to  this 
spot  those  who  seek  for  rest  and  enjoyment 
and  yet  wish  to  be  "  right  in  the  swim."  The 
railroad  docks  at  Clayton  are  in  plain  sight 
from  Murray  Hill  Hotel,  no  boat  can  pass  up 
or  down  that  is  not  visible  from  its  windows, 
for  every  room  has  an  out-of-door  out  look. 
It  is  readily  reached,  is  the  second  landing 
below  Clayton,  in  the  very  centre  of  the  best 
fishing  on  the  river,  and  yet  enough  secluded 
to  prove  a  veritable  resting-place  for  those 
who  wish  to  avoid  noise  or  hurly-burly.  We 
predict  for  this  great  improvement  a  decided 
success,  and  that  the  foresight  of  its  proprie- 
tors will  meet  with  a  just  reward  for  theii 
labors  and  their  investment. 


FOh'/-:ST  G.   If'h/HA'S. 


245 


k   Island, 

$100    in 

Un.     The 

loo.uoo. 

d  or  built 

vidence," 

iring   and 

the  points 

'  form  the 

iw  to  this 

njoyment 

n."     The 

)lain  sight 

n  pass  up 

windows, 

out  look. 

d  landing 

F  the  best 

secluded 

for  those 

irly.     We 

a  decided 

3  proprie- 

for  their 


FOREST   G.  WEEKS. 


FOREST  G.  WEEKS. 


Forest  G.  Weeks,  of  Skaneateles,  was 
born  in  Draycott,  Somersetshire,  England, 
August  2,  1832.  His  parents  were  Stephen 
and  Ruth  Weeks.  Forest  G.  Weeks,  the  sub- 
ject of  this  sketch,  was  one  of  a  family  of 
eight  children,  seven  of  whom  came  to  this 
country.  Forest  G.  was  only  seventeen  years 
of  age  when  he  left  his  native  country  to  seek 
his  fortune  in  the  new  world.  The  success 
he  has  achieved  is  evidence  that  he  possessed 
the  metal  and  ability  to  make  his  way  against 


the  many  obstacles  that  beset  the  road  even 
of  the  native  born  American.  He  came  to 
Skaneateles  in  1849  and  at  once  apprenticed 
himself  to  learn  the  blacksmith's  trade.  His 
time  and  talents  were  devoted  to  this  occupa- 
tion for  the  succeeding  five  years.  Then  not 
being  satisfied  with  the  education  so  far  ac- 
quired, he  wisely  concluded  to  attend  school 
for  a  cirae.  This  was  carried  out  by  taking  a 
course  at  the  Falley  Seminary  in  Fulton,  Os- 
wego county,  N.  Y.     The  winters  in  the  mean- 


246 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER, 


time  were  spent  in  teaching  school,  and  thus 
arcumulating  sufficient  money  to  defray  the 
expenses  of  his  course  in  the  seminary. 

After  having  completed  his  course  of  study 
at  the  seminary,  Mr.  Weeks  returned  in  1857 
to  Skaneateles  and  entered  upon  a  business 
career  that  has  now  continued  with  remark- 
able success  for  nearly  forty  years.  He  did 
not  return  to  the  occupation  of  blacksmith,  but 
at  once  engaged  in  the  teasel  business,  which 
was  then  an  important  industry  in  Onondaga 
county.  Mr.  Weeks  not  only  raised  this  prod- 
uct, but  carried  on  a  large  business  as  a  dealer 
in  teasels.  The  enterprise  proved  eminently 
successful,  and  so  Mr.  Weeks  remained  in  that 
line  till  1867.  In  the  meanwhile  energy  and 
good  management  had  enabled  him  to  accu- 
mulate money  to  extend  his  business  interests 
in  other  directions.  That  year  (1867)  he  pur- 
chased a  one-half  interest  in  the  paper  manu- 
factory, which  is  now  known  as  the  Brick  Mill. 
This  mill  is  situated  on  the  Skaneateles  outlet 
about  three  and  one-half  miles  from  the  vil- 
lage. The  firm  name  then  was  Bannister  & 
Weeks,  and  so  continued  four  years,  when  Mr. 
Weeks  by  purchasing  the  interest  of  Mr. 
Bannister,  became  sole  proprietor.  He  still 
conducts  this  mill,  turning  out  a  large  prod- 
uct. It  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1872,  but  was 
at  once  rebuilt  and  enlarged  with  more  mod- 
ern design  and  equipment.  Its  output  is  now 
from  six  to  seven  tons  of  paper  per  day. 

The  Draycott  Mill  was  established  a  little 
later,  the  daily  product  of  which  now  averages 
five  to  six  tons  per  day.  The  third  mill, 
which  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Weeks,  was  for- 
merly owned  and  run  by  the  Skaneateles 
Paper  Co.  Mr.  Weeks  first  purchased  a  min- 
ority interest  in  this  company  but  at  the  same 
time  bought  the  entire  product  of  the  mill. 
This  business  continued  several  years  when 
Mr.  Weeks  also  purchased  the  total  capital 
stock  of  the  company,  thus  becoming  sole 
owner  of  the  property.  This  mill  too  has  an 
output  of  eight  tons  of  paper  per  day.  In 
1882  another  extension  of  the  business  was 
made  by  the  purchase  of  the  Earll,  Tallman 
&  Co.  distillery,  which  was  remodeled  and 
converted  into  another  paper  mill.     It  is  run 


as  a  stock  company  and  is  known  as  the  Lake- 
side Paper  Co.  In  this  mill  are  manufactured 
mill  wrappers,  building  paper,  carpet  paper, 
felts,  etc.,  turning  out  about  six  tons  per  day. 
These  comprise  four  of  the  largest  mills  on 
tiie  stream.  Besides  these,  Mr.  Weeks  in 
company  with  Mr.  Edwin  R.  Redhead,  estab- 
lished what  is  now  known  as  the  Victoria  Mills 
Paper  Co.,  at  Fulton,  Oswego  county,  N.  Y. 
The  company  a  little  later  bought  the  upper 
power  on  the  Fulton  side  of  the  falls  and 
erected  thereon  a  large  wood  pulp  mill,  now 
producing  tliirty-five  tons  of  pulp  per  day. 
In  1890  Mr.  Weeks  and  Mr.  Redhead  separa- 
ted, Mr.  Redhead  taking  the  Victoria  Mills 
and  the  former  the  Upper  Falls  Pulp  Mill, 
which  he  still  owns.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that 
Mr.  Weeks  is  one  of  the  largest  manufactur- 
ers of  the  paper  product  in  the  United  States. 

Associated  with  Mr.  Weeks  in  his  many 
business  enterprises  are  his  three  sons,  Charles 
G.,  Forest  G.,  Jr.,  and  Julius  S.  Besides 
these  there  is  Mr.  H.  L.  Paddock,  formerly  of 
Wolcott,  Wayne  county,  N.  Y.,  who  married 
Mary  L.,  eldest  daughter  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Weeks.  She  is  a  graduate  of  Cazenovia  Semi- 
nary. They  also  have  another  daughter,  Sara 
L.,  who  graduated  at  the  Syracuse  University. 
Mr.  Weeks  married  in  September,  1859,  Sarah 
A.  Monell,  of  Mexico,  Oswego  county,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  Weeks  is  also  a  stockholder  and  direc- 
tor in  the  Thousand  Island  Park  Association, 
at  which  place  he,  together  with  his  family, 
spend  the  summer.  He  is  a  member  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  and  represented 
the  same  in  the  General  Conference  of  1880. 
He  is,  besides  this,  one  of  the  trustees  of 
Syracuse  University  and  Cazenovia  Seminary. 
The  deep  interest  he  has  always  taken  in 
educational  institutions,  and  especially  those 
named,  has  been  backed  by  his  upbuilding 
influence  and  a  generous  contribution  of 
money.  Mr.  Weeks  has  always  been  an  active, 
earnest  Republican  in  politics,  and  had  he 
been  so  inclined,  would  have  been  honored  by 
an  election  to  almost  any  office  within  the 
gift  of  the  citizens  of  Onondaga  county.  In 
this  as  in  all  other  matters  he  has  the  confi- 
dence and  esteem  of  all  who  know  him. 


YACHTING. 


247 


as  the  Lake- 
lanufactured 
arpet  paper, 
ons  per  day. 
est  mills  on 
.  Weeks  in 
Ihead,  estab- 
ictoria  Mills 
lunty,  N.  Y. 
It  the  upper 
le  falls  and 
p  mill,  now 
Ip  per  day. 
lead  separa- 
:toria   Mills 

Pulp  Mill, 
be  seen  that 
nanufactur- 
nited  States. 
I  his  many 
ons,  Charles 
S.     Besides 

formerly  of 
ho  married 
•.  and  Mrs. 
novia  Semi- 
jghter,  Sara 

University. 
1859,  Sarah 
lunty,  N.  Y. 

and  direc- 
A^ssociation, 
his  family, 
nber  of  the 
represented 
ce  of  1880. 
trustees  of 
a  Seminary, 
s  taken  in 
cially  those 

upbuilding 
ribution  of 
;n  an  active, 
md  had  he 

honored  by 

within  the 
;ounty.  In 
s  the  confi- 
j  him. 


YACHTING. 

RV    GE()R(;E    a.   STEWART, 
In  "  Out-Doors,"  published  by  the  Pope  MTr  Co.,  the  Original  Bicycle  Manufacturers. 


IT  is  a  well  known  fact  that  lovers  of  the  sea 
consider  yachting  to  be  the  highest  of  all 
sports.  The  fundamental  principle  which 
underlies  all  the  best  sports  we  have — that  of 
a  life  oui-of-doors,  where  fine  air  and  sun- 
shine do  their  glorious  part  in  building  up  the 
physique — applies  to  yachting,  in  common 
with  foot-ball,  base  ball,  rowing,  bicycling, 
tennis,  cricket,  and  other  sports  a-field. 

One  grand  feature  of  sports  in  the  open  air 
is  that  they  simulate  uncounscious  exercise, 
and  herein  lies  half  of  their  beneficial  effect. 
It  is  idle  for  the  physician  to  prescribe  a 
gymnasium-course  for  the  average  young  man 
of  sedentary  occupation,  for  he  looks  upon 
such  exercise  as  so  much  work,  and  soon 
tires  of  it.  But  put  the  same  young  fellow 
into  a  game  of  ball,  or  on  a  bicycle,  or  aboard 
a  yacht  for  a  cruise — whichever  may  be  his 
particular  hobby — ind  he  will  go  to  bed  with  a 
delicious  sense  of  physical  weariness  without 
having  appreciated  that  he  was  doing  any 
work  at  all. 

Sports  are  the  salvation  of  our  youth,  and 
it  is  remarkable  that  they  should  have  been 
frowned  upon,  or  at  best  tolerated,  for  so  long 
a  time.  The  most  natural  tendency  of  a 
growing  boy,  or  girl  for  that  matter,  is  to 
play  at  some  game  all  day  long.  Nature  is 
wiser  than  man  in  this,  as  in  all  other  things, 
and  the  present  age  has  learned  to  follow 
nature,  and  to  encourage  the  young  to  health- 
ful exercise. 

Which  is  the  best  form  of  sport  is  not  for 
anyone  to  decide.  They  all  have  their  virtues, 
and  the  taste  and  circumstances  of  individuals 
may  be  best  left  to  select  the  most  useful. 
While  yachting  has  not  so  many  devotees  as 
some  other  sports,  its  admirers  make  up  in 
enthusiasm  what  they  lack  in  number^.  It 
can  be  pursued  to  advantage  only  on  the  open 
sea  or  on  some  tolerably  large  lake.  That 
was  the  reason  for  the  Chippewa  Yacht  Club 


locating  in    hat  wide  arm  of  the  river.     (See 

P-  79-) 

The  number  who  sail  the  seas  for  pleasure 
is  astonishingly  large,  and  rapidly  increasing, 
for  the  water  rarely  loses  its  fascination  for 
those  who  have  once  tasted  its  allurements. 

There  is  more  or  less  of  an  opinion  preva- 
lent that  yachting  is  an  expensive  sport,  one 
to  be  indulged  in  only  by  the  rich.  Such  an 
idea  is  as  far  as  possible  from  the  truth.  It 
is  true  that  the  millionaire  finds  plenty  of  op- 
portunity of  gratifying  expensive  tastes  in 
that  connection,  and  palatial  Alvas  and  Ata- 
lantas  attest  the  royal  scale  upon  which  yacht- 
ing may  be  enjoyed.  Yet  it  is  doubtful  if  a 
Vanderbilt  or  a  Gould  gets  any  more  real 
pleasure  out  of  a  half-a-million  dollar  steam 
yacht  than  the  owner  of  a  snug  little  single- 
hander.  who  lives  more  cheaply  on  his  yacht 
than  he  could  possibly  live  ashore. 

I  remember  a  striking  instance  of  this.  A 
well-known  millionaire  yachtman  was  standing 
idly  on  the  bridge  of  his  200-foot  steam  yacht 
one  day,  when  a  friend  of  his  sailed  by  in  his 
30-footer.  The  millionaire's  eyes  kindled  as 
he  saw  the  fun  his  friend  was  having,  and 
with  a  touch  of  sadness  in  his  tone,  he  called 
out :  "  I  wish  I  could  get  as  much  fun  out  of 
my  big  boat  as  you  do  out  of  your  little  one." 
The  two  men  were  intimate  friends,  so  there 
was  nothing  of  snobbishness  about  this  re- 
mark, nor  of  impertinence  in  the  reply  of  the 
owner  of  the  30-footer,  which  was :  "The 
trouble  with  you  is  that  you  own  so  many 
things  you  don't  know  how  to  enjoy  any  of 
them.  I've  only  got  one  plaything,  and  so  I 
make  the  most  of  it." 

Take  a  party  of  four  young  fellows  off 
for  a  cruise  on  the  wide  St.  Lawrence,  or  on 
Long  Island  Sound,  or  along  the  Maine  coast, 
and  they  realize  nearly  the  acme  of  human 
pleasure.  Their  yacht  may  be  small  and  in- 
expensive,   they    may   have   to   put    up   with 


248 


A   SOUVENIR  OF   THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


*» 


cramped  accommodations,  and  a  doubtful 
diet  prepared  by  their  own  hands,  each  offi- 
ciating as  chef  in  turn,  yet  the  two  weeks  or 
more  which  they  will  spend  on  the  cruise,  will 
be  weeks  of  solid  fun. 

The  supposed  perils  of  the  water  have  kept 
many  from  this  most  fascinating  of  sports. 
The  truth  of  the  matter  is  that  yachting  is  one 
of  the  safest  of  sports.  There  is  just  enough 
danger  to  add  that  spice  of  adventure  which 
attracts  the  Anglo  Saxon  race.  Quick  judg- 
ment, skill,  pluck  and  endurance  are  con- 
tinually called  into  play  by  an  association  with 
the  sea. 

Quite  distinct  from  cruising,  and  becoming 
more  so  every  year,  is  the  sport  of  yacht  rac- 
ing. The  idea  of  combining  the  cruiser  and 
racer  in  one  hull  is  a  very  attractive  one. 
Not  many  years  ago,  indeed  at  the  present 
time,  in  nearly  all  classes,  the  clever  yachts- 
man could  cross  the  finish  line  of  a  hard- fought 
race  in  the  smoke  of  the  winning  gun,  hastily 
dump  a  few  stores  and  extra  gear  aboard  his 
craft,  and  set  sail  for  the  eastward  for  a  cruise 
in  as  staunch  and  comfortable  a  craft  as  one 
could  wish  to  own. 

Keen  racing  competition,  however,  is  driv- 
ing the  sport  into  craft  built  especially  for 
racing,  with  no  thought  of  cruising  comfort. 
As  the  family  horse  is  no  longer  harnessed  to 
the  sulky,  nor  the  trotter  tied  up  to  the  carry- 
all for  the  family  driving,  so  the  tendency  is  to 
divide  the  racing  and  cruising  yachts  more 
sharply. 

Take  the  little  fleet  of  this  year,  how  fine 
and  thorough-bred  they  all  look  to  the  racing 
man,  and  how  ugly  to  the  cruiser.  The  latter 
protests  they  are  not  yachts  at  all,  but 
"machines."  Presently  he  ranges  along  side 
with  his  sturdy  cutter,  and  is  first  amazed  and 
then  lost  in  admiration  of  the  wonderful 
speed  of  the  tiny  craft.  As  he  tacks  ship, 
and  runs  in  for  the  anchorage,  he  murmurs 
grudgingly  to  himself:  "  I  guess  the  darned 
little  things  have  come  to  stay,"  and  the 
chances  are  that  he  will  order  a  "  fin  "  or  a 
"  sand-bagger,"  or  something  even  worse, 
with  which  to  "do  up"  the  fleet  the  coming 
year. 


It  is  the  great  advantage  of  yacht  racing 
that  it  is,  and  must  remam,  a  "  clean  "  sport, 
unhurt  by  the  evils  of  professionalism.  It 
costs  so  much  to  build  and  run  a  racing  yacht, 
and  the  prizes  are  so  small  that  there  is  no 
money  in  racing  for  the  prizes  as  a  business. 
The  racing  man  must  race  for  the  love  of  the 
sport  and  the  ambition  of  winning.  The 
gambling  spirit  finds  little  to  feed  upon  in 
yachting  contests. 

For  the  skillful  amateur  there  is  nothing 
more  full  of  interest  than  a  yacht  race.  From 
the  time  that  the  preparatory  signal  is  given, 
he  is  all  alert,  counting  the  seconds  so  as  to 
have  his  ship  just  on  the  line  when  the  start- 
ing gun  is  fired.  Once  away,  and  every  sense 
is  at  its  keenest  pitch,  to  catch  the  slightest 
advantage  of  varying  wind  or  tide,  or  to  keep 
one's  competitor  from  getting  the  best  of  it. 
The  elements  of  the  water  are  stable  enough 
in  nearly  every  race  to  let  the  fastest  boat  win, 
yet  there  is  just  enough  uncertainty  and  pos- 
sibility of  "  fluke "  to  make  every  sailor  in 
the  fleet  work  his  hardest  and  not  give  up  till 
the  winning  gun  is  fired. 

For  those  who  object  to  the  extreme 
competition  of  the  racing  classes,  with  its 
consequent  "  out-building  "  and  a  new  boat 
every  year  or  two,  handicap  racing  offers  a 
good  deal  of  sport.  In  the  handicap  class 
the  cruisers  and  out-built  racers  meet  and 
each  receives  an  allowance  of  time  which  is 
supposed  to  put  all  on  an  equal  basis.  The 
slower  the  boat  the  more  time  allowance  she 
receives.  Such  races  as  these  invariably  at- 
tract large  entries,  and  the  tail-ender  who  lags 
in  half  an  hour  behind  the  first  boat  and  wins 
by  the  aid  of  his  3S-minute  handicap,  feels  as 
proud  as  the  owner  of  the  Volunteer.  Hot 
arguments  on  the  injustice  of  the  handicap 
ensue,  and  it  behooves  the  regatta  committee 
to  "  lie  low "  and  not  appear  at  the  club 
house  till  the  storm  has  abated. 

It  is  the  varied  nature  of  yachting,  and  the 
different  conditions  under  which  it  can  be  en- 
joyed which  make  the  sport  so  universally 
popular.  Who  does  not  remember  the  intense 
interest  over  the  American-cup  races  of  1885- 
87  which  spread  from  Maine  to  California, 


THE  FIRST  PRINTERS  UPON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


249 


acht  racing 
ian  "  sport, 
nalism.  It 
cing  yacht, 
there  is  no 
a  business, 
love  of  the 
ling.  The 
d  upon    in 

is  nothing 
ce.  From 
al  is  given, 
is  so  as  to 
n  the  start- 
;very  sense 
le  slightest 

or  to  keep 
best  of  it. 
jle  enough 
t  boat  win, 
y  and  pos- 
sailor  in 
;ive  up  till 

extreme 

,  with   its 

new   boat 

g  offers  a 

icap  class 

meet    and 

which  is 

isis.     The 

vance  she 

iriably  at- 

r  who  lags 

t  and  wins 

p,  feels  as 

eer.     Hot 

handicap 

ommittee 

the   club 

?,  and  the 
an  be  en- 
niversally 
he  intense 
iof  1885- 
'alifornia, 


and  which  caused  thousands  who  did  not  know 
a  spinnaker  from  a  marlin-spike  to  scan  the 
bulletins  eagerly  during  the  progress  of  the 
races?  Then  the  wonderful  46-f ooters  of  1 89 1 , 
and  the  still  more  remarkable  21 -footers  of 
1892,  have  won  the  admiration  of  the  yacht- 
ing public  and  stimulated  interest  in  the  sport. 
Steam  yachting  attracts  the  busy  man,  who 
must  know  to  an  hour  when  he  can  get  back 
to  Wall  or  State  street,  and  the  steam  fleet 
multiplies  even  more  rapidly  than  the  sailing 
craft. 

As  in  any  sport,  the  beginner  should  be 
started  aright  in  yachting.  Give  him  a  handy 
little  non-capsizable  cutter  with  a  snug  rig, 
and  you  have  amply  provided  for  his  safety. 


Make  what  blunders  he  may,  he  cannot  tip  her 
over,  and  he  will  have  hard  work  to  come  to 
any  grief  at  all.  To  make  assurance  doubly 
sure,  send  him  out  for  a  time  in  the  care  of  a 
good  boatman,  or  make  him  serve  an  appren- 
ticeship under  some  of  his  skillful  yachting 
friends.  If  he  has  the  right  stuff  in  him,  it 
will  not  be  long  before  he  is  sailing  his  own 
boat  nearly  as  well  as  the  crack  sailors  of  the 
fleet,  and  he  will  soon  acquire  a  readiness  to 
meet  emergencies,  a  coolness  under  possible 
danger,  which  will  make  him  safer  on  the 
sea  than  he  is  on  shore,  and  which  will 
stand  him  in  good  stead  in  facing  the  diffi- 
culties which  he  will  meet  in  his  other  walks 
of  life. 


THE  FIRST  PRINTERS  UPON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


IN  the  admirable  article  by  General  Neilson, 
on  page  195,  the  beginning  of  newspapers 
and  other  printing  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  is 
ably  discussed.  Singular  as  it  may  appear, 
and  it  ilhutrates  the  manner  in  which  the 
migratory  spirit  in  man  carries  forward  great 
movements  in  art  and  science,  these  early 
efforts  at  establishing  printing  presses  in  Can- 
ada had  their  inception  in  the  city  of  Phila- 
delphia. On  page  200  General  Neilson 
mentions  "  S.  Miles  "  as  the  founder  of  the 
Kingston  Gazette,  in  18 10.  A  son  of  this 
Stephen  Miles  (Rev.  Harvey  Miles)  is  now  a 
minister  of  the  Congregational  Church  at 
Canton,  N.  Y.,  and  from  him  we  have  been 
able  to  procure  a  short  biographical  sketch  of 
his  father.  Rev.  Mr.  Miles  is  about  the  same 
age  as  the  author  of  this  volume  (in  his  73d 
year),  but  his  handwriting  is  as  clear  and 
bright  as  if  written  by  a  young  man.  He  has 
sent  us  a  copy  of  his  father's  newspaper,  the 
Kingston  Gazette,  dated  September  5,  1815. 
It  is  a  folio,  17x24  inches  in  size,  and  fully  up 
to  the  newspapers  of  that  era,  filled  with  ad- 
vertising—  a  sure  sign  of  the  progressive 
spirit  of  the  business  men  of  Kingston.  Of 
his  father,  Mr.  Miles  says: 

"Stephen  Miles  was  born  in  Royalton.  Ver- 
mont, October  19,  1789.     His  father,  Ephraim 


Miles,  was  a  soldier  in  the  Revolutionary  war, 
and  fought  in  the  battles  of  Saratoga,  under 
General  Gates,  and  was  present  at  the  sur- 
render of  General  Burgoyne  and  his  army  to 
the  American  forces.  He  was  also  at  West 
Point,  under  C-.ieral  Benedict  Arnold,  when 
that  officer  betrayed  his  country  and  fled  to 
the  British  in  New  York,  in  1780.  While 
quite  a  lad,  Stephen  was  apprenticed  to  learn 
the  art  of  printing  in  the  town  where  he  was 
born.  Before  his  time  of  service  expired,  his 
master  sold  his  office  in  Royalton,  and  went 
to  Montreal,  Canada,  to  establish  an  office 
there,  taking  young  Miles  with  him.  After 
completing  his  apprenticeship,  a  favorable  op- 
portunity presenting  itself,  he  went  to  Kings- 
ton, to  continue  in  the  printing  business.  A 
paper  called  the  '  Kingston  Gazette,'  had 
been  started  there  by  a  young  man  of  the 
name  of  Kendall,  but  he,  coming  from  the 
'States,'  and  being  dissatisfied  and  discon- 
tented with  his  surroundings,  disposed  of  his 
printing  office  to  interested  parties  in  Kings- 
ton, who  were  anxious  to  have  a  paper  printed 
in  that  town.  By  correspondence  with  Mr. 
Moore,  of  Montreal,  Mr.  Miles  was  engaged 
to  go  to  Kingston,  take  charge  of  the  office, 
and  finally,  purchasing  it,  the  '  Kingston  Ga- 
zette '  became   a   permanent    and  promising 


250 


A   SOUVENIR  OF    THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


investment.  This,  I  believe,  was  the  third 
paper  printed  at  that  time  in  Upper  Canada. 
In  subsequent  years,  Mr.  Miles  became  a 
Methodist  minister,  and  a  member  of  the  an- 
nual conference  ol  that  body,  and  after  spend- 


ing many  years  of  active  service,  age  and  in- 
firmities compelled  him  to  retire  from  active 
work.  He  died  at  Ernesttown,  some  18  mites 
north  of  Kingston,  December  13,  1870,  in  his 
eighty-second  year." 


POINT   VIVIAN. 


/^"HIS  is  the  name  given  to  a  peninsula 
^1  containing  about  eight  acres  of  land, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  great  St.  Lawrence 
River,  about  two  miles  above  Alexandria 
Bay.  It  was  purchased  of  Captain  VV.  H. 
Houghton,  in  the  year  1877,  by  a  number  of 
Evans  Mills  residents,  who  had  it  surveyed 
by  H.  L.  Scott  into  forty  building  lots,  leav- 
ing a  large  public  square  in  front  and  a  neat 
little  park.  They  also  have  a  good  road  lead- 
ing to  the  regular  town  highway  ;  a  well  has 
been  drilled,  and  pure  cold  water  obtained  in 
abundance ;  it  has  a  large  ice-house  which  is 
filled  each  season  affording  plenty  of  ice  for 
all.  About  thirty-five  cottages  have  been 
erected.  It  has  two  stores,  a  boarding-house 
and  a  post-office,  where  the  mails  are  received 
every  day  during  the  pleasure  season.  The 
place  is  easy  of  access  by  all  the  largest  boats, 
as  it  has  one  of  the  best  docks  on  the  river, 
and  is  nearly  200  feet  long.  The  association 
is  governed  by  a  president  and  three  trustees. 
The  names  of  the  present  officers  are  E.  O. 
Hungerford,  president,  Evans  Mills ;  Wm. 
M.  Conistock,  secretary  and  treasurer,  Evans 
Mills;  Richard  Rodenhurst,  Theresa;  O.  W. 
Van  Wornier,  Watertown,  and  Mr.  Harrigan, 
Gouverneur,  trustees. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  present  prop- 
erty owners  at  Point  Vivian :  Allen  Cook, 
Theresa;    Geo.  W.  Adsit,  Watertown;   Geo. 


Taylor,  Watertown  ;  Charles  Austin,  Water- 
town  ;  Mrs.  G.  \V.  Davenport,  Evans  Mills; 
Rezot  Tozer,  Evans  Mills;  W.  S.  Cooper, 
Felts  Mills;  Mrs.  Chadwick,  Theresa ;  Mrs. 
A.  M.  Cook,  Evans  Mills;  A.  B.  Cutting,  Gouv- 
erneur ;  Ed.  Grieb,  Alexandria  Bay  ;  Theodore 
Gegoux,  Watertown ;  M.  Horton  (present 
postmaster),  Watertown  ;  Miss  Jennie  Hunger- 
ford,  Evans  Mills;  E.  O.  Hungerford,  Evans 
Mills;  Mrs.  Mary  Sharon,  Evans  Mills;  Lor- 
enzo Smith,  Gouverneur;  Mrs.  Albert  Utman, 
Syracuse :  O.  Van  Wormer,  Watertown ;  Mrs. 
Van  Epps  and  Klock,  Watertown  ;  Alexan- 
der Whitney,  Gouverneur;  M.  Wainwright, 
Gouverneur;  Mrs.  Wm.  Youngs,  Watertown: 
Mrs.  Hannah  Jane  Saxe,  Watertown ;  John 
Ball,  Watertown  ;  O.  W.  Barnes,  Watertown  ; 
Miss  Mary  Hungerford,  Syracuse ;  Miss 
Agnes  Hungerford,  Syracuse ;  J.  D.  Harri- 
gan, Gouverneur ;  Henry  Goodrich,  Theresa ; 
Miss  Ida  M.  Isdell,  Albany  ;  L.  E.  Jones,  M. 
D.,  Buffalo ;  Mrs.  J.  J.  Kinney,  Evans  Mills ; 
Mrs.  T.  C.  Kellar  Est,  Watertow)i :  Mrs. 
Charles  Ehrlicher,  Watertown  ;  Andrew  Kin- 
ney, Gouverneur ;  Henry  Lewis,  Watertown  ; 
Nathan  Lennon,  Watertown;  Geo.  W.  Mowe, 
Watertown;  H.  H.  Marsh,  Gouverneur;  B.  G. 
Parker,  Gouverneur ;  Richard  Rodenhurst, 
Theresa.  A  Mr.  Henry  has  established  a 
large  boarding-house,  and  also  keeps  a  store 

[1896]. 


"^~A~^ 


age  and  in- 

from  active 

itne  i8  mites 

1870,  in  his 


The  Murray  Hill. 


3tin,  Water- 
ivans  Mills; 

S.  Cooper, 
;resa  ;  Mrs. 
tting,  Gouv- 

:  Theodore 
in  (present 
nie  Hunger- 
brd,  Evans 
Mills;  Lor- 
)ert  Utman, 
town ;  Mrs. 
n  ;  Alexan- 
Wainwright, 
Watertown : 
own ;  John 
Vatertown  ; 
use ;     Miss 

D.  Harri- 
h,  Theresa ; 
Jones,  M. 
vans  Mills; 
ow)i :  Mrs. 
idrew  Kin- 
Vatertown  ; 

W.  Mowe, 
leur;  B.  G. 
-odenhurst, 

ablished  a 
sps  a  store 


'•J  '  l'"^' 

V,  .  .  . ,  ,,;,.    ;-v,;^^:?.;,,.<^^'^* ^fe.^  :  ■■      ■  -^^-y,  ,-i»i. 

>K'^v^ 

NAm^^ivm 

Si 

*-"■-• 

5"    ^■^.,- 

;?-.  ■  -;■^ 

.■::..«•        •  ^"'"^^^T^^^IJ       -,.iS^Sfc^:%4; 

•^■■■•^.    : 

1 

•'  As  we  journey  through  life,  let  us  live  by  the  way,"  never  forgetting  that  there  is  a  distinction  between 
"living"  and  merely  "existing." 

THIS  newest  of  all  the  "  new  "  hotels  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  will  be  opened  June  25th, 
1896. 
It  will  be  patronized  by  the  sort  of  people  one  likes  to  meet.     As  Murray  Hill 
Park  is  largely  owned  and  represented  by  the  younger  class  of  business  men  from 
New    York,   Philadelphia,  Trenton,  Pittsburg,   Chicago,  Cleveland,   Buffalo,  Rochester  and 
Syracuse,  an  atmosphere  of  good  fellowship  will  surely  be  found  under  the  hospitable  shelter 
of  Murray  Hill. 

Weekly  Concerts  will  be  inaugurated,  and  held  under  the  oaks,  for  which  the  best  of  music 
will  be  provided,  and  to  which  all  cottagers  among  the  Thousand  Islands  will  be  invited. 

In  short,  it  will  be  our  aim  to  make  the  Murray  Hill  famous  for  its  hospitality  and  good 
cheer. 

The  Murray  Hill  is  situated  on  Murray  Hill  Park,  the  latest  popular  resort  established 
among  the  Thousand  Islands.  It  has  the  largest  Dining  Room,  largest  Office,  largest  Ladies' 
Parlor,  largest  Ladies'  Billiard  Room  and  the  widest  Piazza  of  any  hotel  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  will  be  supplied  with  Elevator,  Electric  Lights,  Fire-places,  Electric  calls,  etc.  There 
is  a  post-office  and  telegraph  office  in  the  hotel. 

'     It  is  surrounded  by  broad  waters  for  yachting,  and  Eel  Bay,  the  best  fishing  grounds  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  washes  the  shores  of  Murray  Hill  Park. 
Terms,  from  $2.50  to  $4.00  per  day. 

MURRAY  HILL  PARK  CO., 

Murray  Hill,  Jeflferson  County,  N.  Y. 


[251] 


HADDOCK'S 


■** 


Qe\)[((T)r)ia\  jHistory  of  Jefferson  Coanty 

REDUCED  IN  PRICE. 

Original  Price  I5.50.    Now  offered  at  $4.00. 

IT  is  a  singular  fact  that  no  book  offered  for  sale  in  Jefferson  County  has  elicited  so  much 
praise  as  this  History.  Originally  intended  for  480  pages,  the  author  was  constrained 
to  increase  its  size  to  over  950  pages,  weighing  eight  pounds,  on  fine  paper,  and  this 
without  any  increase  in  the  price.  The  book  is  a  complete  historical  synopsis  of  the  last 
hundred  years  in  the  social,  religious,  agricultural,  mechanical  and  financial  growth  of 
Jefferson  County,  beginning  with  the  earliest  frontier  settlements,  and  following  the  country's 
progress  up  to  1895.  The  book  has  many  new  features;  there  is  not  a  dull  page  in  it,  and 
not  one  person  who  has  bought  it  would  part  with  it  for  what  it  cost.  It  stands  unchallenged 
as  //te  History  of  the  County. 

Excellent  as  are  its  articles  and  beautiful  as  are  the  illustrations,  the  book  has  been 
handicapped  by  the  hard  times,  which  have  affected  all  classes;  to  this  should  be  added  the 
increased  expense  of  every  household  on  account  of  the  hard  winter  of  1895-6.  To  bring 
the  History  within  the  reach  of  every  family  the  subscriber  has  determined  to  put  the  price 
down  to  cost.  The  price  has  been  $5.50;  it  is  now  $4.00,  at  which  it  is  expected  that  the 
balance  of  the  edition  will  be  speedily  exhausted.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  in  ten  years  a  person 
desiring  to  sell  his  Haddock's  History  can  obtain  $10.00  for  it. 

We  can  fill  a  newspaper  with  the  commendatory  articles  relating  to  this  work.  Even  a 
casual  examination  will  convince  a  person  of  its  superior  excellence.  It  takes  the  place  of 
Hough  and  the  two  other  alleged  histories  that  have  been  produced  since  1854,  when  Hough's 
was  published.  Haddock's  History  is  the  only  one  written  by  a  native  of  the  County,  one 
who  for  over  fifty  years  has  been  more  or  less  intimately  in  touch  with  all  its  personalities, 
who  knew  the  leading  men  of  the  County  from  1840  to  1895  as  no  one  else  has  known  them  — 
and  many  biographical  sketches  of  many  such  are  presented  in  a  way  that  is  instructive  yet 
truthful.  From  Perlev  G.  Keyes  and  Orville  Hungerford,  followed  by  Charles  B.  Hoard  and 
Roswell  P.  Flower,  the  political  record  comes  down  to  and  includes  the  later  crop  of  equally 
able  partisans.  This  is  a  new  departure,  and  the  Political  Chapter  is  alone  worth  the  price  of 
the  book. 

Its  record  of  the  War  for  the  Union  is  the  most  complete  yet  published,  and  graphically 
describes  many  incidents  in  which  the  writer  participated,  as  well  as  philosophically  discusses 
the  causes  which  led  up  to  the  war.  It  is  a  soldier's  book,  written  by  a  soldier,  one  who 
"  marched  with  the  troops."  The  portraits  of  the  soldiers  who  went  to  the  front  form  a  galaxy 
of  rare  pictures,  growing  more  and  more  valuable  each  year,  and  transmitting  to  posterity  the 
very  lineaments  of  some  of  the  men  who  fought  to  save  the  government  from  destruction. 

This  work  should  be  in  jvery  household.  The  opportunity  for  its  purchase  will  soon 
pass  away. 

Secure  it  now,  and  transmit  it  to  your  children. 

JNO.  A.  HADDOCK, 

Watertown,  N.  Y. 


^"A  Post  Office  Order  or  Cash  to  the  amount  of  j 
secures  you  the  book  by  express. 


Haddock's  Popular  St.  Lawrence  River  Books  for  i8g6  contain  many  new  pictures  and  articles,  and  are 
worthy  of  a  place  in  any  library.    The  volume  in  your  hand  is  one  r'  these  books,  and  speaks  for  itself. 

[252] 


)tjnty 


INDEX   OF   WHOLE-PACE    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


ited  so  much 
i  constrained 
per,  and  this 
is  of  the  last 
growth  of 
he  country's 
ige  in  it,  and 
inchallenged 

ak  has  been 
e  added  the 
i.  To  bring 
)ut  the  price 
:ted  that  the 
ars  a  person 

rk.  Even  a 
the  place  of 
lien  Hough's 
County,  one 
)ersonaHties, 
3wn  them  — 
itructive  yet 
•  Hoard  and 
p  of  equally 
the  price  of 

i  graphically 
lly  discusses 
ier,  one  who 
arm  a  galaxy 
posterity  the 
ruction, 
se  will  soon 


[Many  pictures  are  not  included  in  this  index.  They  are  scattered  all  through  the  book,  and  are  worthy 
of  the  reader's  notice.  In  looking  for  illustrations,  please  remember  that  pages  A  to  P  follow  page  64,  and 
that  Q  to  Ff  follow  page  80.] 


A     Calumet  Island,  Summer  Home  of  C.  G.  Emeiy, 

of  New  York. 
B     The  Summer  Residence  of  C.  G.  Emery,  of  New 

York  (Calumet  Island). 
C     The     Veranda,     Looking     Eastward,    Summer 

Home  of  C.  G.  Emery,  Calumet  Island. 
D     Calumet   Island,  the  Summer   Home  of  C.  G. 

Emery,  of  New  York, 
E     The  fine  Steam- Yacht  "  Sophia,"  Capt.  H.  W, 

Visger,  of  Alexandria  Bay. 
F      Mr.  J,  P.  Billings'  Beautiful  Cottages  at  Thous- 
'■'        and  Island  Park,  on  Garden  Avenue. 
G     Composite  Plate  of  Steamboat  Captains. 
H     Thp  Fiddler's  Elbow,  Canadian  Channel. 
I       Composite  Plate  of  Steamboat  Captains. 
J      The   Old    Seth    Green    House,   on    Manhattan 

Island,  now  owned  by  Hon.  J.  C.  Spencer. 
K     In  the  Rift  —  Canada  and  the  United  States. 
L     Big  45-pounder  Mascolunge. 
M     The   "St.   Lawrence"  on  her  Search-light  Ex- 
cursion. 
N     Yachting  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 
O     Composite  Plate  of  Steamboat  Captains. 

[253] 


P 

Q 
R 

S 
T 
U 
V 

W 


Y 
Z 

Aa 
Bb 
Cc 
Dd 

Ee 
Ff 


Steam«r  "  Empire  State." 

The  Beautiful  Steam-Yacht  "Captain  Visger." 

Island  Kate,  the  property  of  G.  W.  Lascell,  of 

Lynn,  Mass. 
Judge  Spencer's  Residence,  Manhattan  Island. 
Prof.  Blandner's  Naptha  Launch. 
The  Pullman  Hotel,  Grinnel  Island. 
West  Side  of  the  Square  at  Thousand  Island 

Park. 
Residence  of  \f,  E.  Dewey,  Esq.,  on   Friendly 

Island. 
The  Frontenac,   Round    Island — Steamer  "St. 

Lawrence  "  making  a  landing. 
A  Scene  on  LaRue  Island. 
The  Water-front  of  Alexandria  Bay. 
The  Thousand  Island  House,  Alexandria  Bay. 
River-front  of  the  city  of  Brockville,  Ont. 
Viewin  Gananoque,  Ont.,  showing  Water  Power. 
One  Day's  Catch  of  Bass.     (Not  much  of  a  day 

either.) 
The  Sentinel. 
Residence  of  W.  C.  Browning,  Esq.,  opposite 

Alexandria  Bay. 


'n,  N.  Y. 

tides,  and  are 
s  for  itself. 


INDEX. 


'*» 


A.  PAGE. 

Abbey,  Dorephus 147 

Alexandria  Bay,  Recollections  of 333 

Algerian,  The,  in  Long  Sault  Rapids 74 

Algonquins,  Huron  and  Iroquois 10 

Alvord,  Hon.  Thos.  G.  (Portrait) 44,  86 

Amherst,  Expedition  of  Lord 39 

Angel,  Gen.  William  H.  (Portrait) . .  88,  134 

Anticosti  Island 76 

Adirondacks  or  Algonquins 32 

Arsenal  at  Watertown  robbed 143 

Art  of  the  Angler 177 

Arthur,  President  C.  A 87 

Articles,  Leading,  in  this  Volume 5 

B. 

Backus,  Rachel   164 

Henry,  Awakening  of 160 

Baker,  Col.  Lafayette 1 16 

Balloon  Voyage  of  La  Mountain  and  Haddock. .  150 

Barton,  Miss  Clara  (Portrait) 53.  54.  230 

Barry  St.  Leger,  Colonel 43 

Beauharnais  Canal 72 

Bell,  Robert,  of  Ottawa 159 

Benton,  Col.  Z.  H.  (Portrait) 131 

Bethune,  Rev.   Doctor 4;;,  86 

Billings,  J.  P.,  and  his  Hotel  on  Garden  Ave., 

1000  Island  Park  (Illustrated  on  page  F) 50 

Blanchard,  Joseph 100 

Boatmen  of  the  St.  Lawrence 46 

Bonaparte  in  Northern  New  York 96 

Bond  Head,  Sir  Francis 148 

Bon  Voyage,  Steamer  entering  Alexandria  Bay.  139 

Booth,  John  Wilkes,  the  Assassin 108,  iii 

Boundary  Line  between  Canada  and  the  United 

States V . . .  223 

Britton,  Freeman,  of  Gananoque 188 

Brockville,  Ontario,  the  Gate  city 70,  189 

Burgoyne,  Gen.  John 43 

Putterfield,  Theodore  (Portrait) 129 

O. 

Canadian  Boat  Songs 215 

Camp,  Col.  Elisha 13 

Cameron,  Angus    156 

Canada's  West  Point 28 

Carlisle,  Mrs.,  Cottage  at  Grinnell  Island 81 


PAGE. 

Carlton  Island,  with  Diagram  41 

Sir  Guy,  Governor  of  Canada 43 

Will,  The  Poet    4 

Cartier,  Jacques,  the  Explorer 9,  10 

Castorland  Colony,  The 169 

Champlain,  Samuel,  the  Explorer 10,  32 

Chapman,  Captain 78 

Chippewa  Yacht  Club. 79 

Members  of 79,  80 

Clayton,  Village  of 81 

Description  of 81 

Business  People  of 82 

Old  Bridge  at  (lUust.) 82 

Coburg,  City  of 70 

Comstock,  Alf.,  and  Tom 45 

Conkling,  Hon.  Roscoe 87 

Cooper's  Pathfinder  and  Station  Island 80 

Cornwall  &  Walton 13 

Hon.  Andrew 13 

Canal 72 

Corbin,  A.,  Jr.,  of  Gouverneur,  N.  Y 244 

Corsican  Running  Lachine  Rapids  (Illust.)  ....  74 

Count  de  Survilliers  (Joseph  Bonaparte) 96 

Curtis,  Gen.  N.  M 93 

D. 

Dayan,  Rev.  J.  F  47 

De  la  Barre,  Governor  of  Canada 36 

De  Nouville,  Expedition  of 37 

Description,  General,  of  the  Islands 31 

Devil's  Oven  (Illustrated) 63 

Dickinson,  Mr.  E.  D.,  of  the  "  Frontenac  " 79 

Dutton,  the  Music-teacher,  of  Utica 44 

E. 

Emerj',  Mr.  C.  G    44.  83 

Cottages  of  (Picture  pages  A,  B,  C,  D). 

F. 

Fairbanks,  Jason 136 

Fayel,  William,  author  and  editor 233 

Fishing,  the  Technique  of 182 

Flower,  Hon.  Roswell  P.  (Portrait) 19 

Mrs.  Sarah  M 21 

Emma  Gertrude  (Mrs.  J.  B.  Taylor) 21 

Anson  R 21 


[254] 


INDEX. 


255 


PAGE. 

,  ...  41 

•••  43 

...  4 

.  9,  10 

169 

10,  32 

...  78 

...  79 

79.  80 

...  81 

...  81 

...  82 

...  82 

...  70 

...  45 

...  87 

...  80 

...  13 

...  13 

...  72 

...  244 

...  74 

...  g6 

•••  93 

...  47 

...  36 

••■  37 

...  31 

...  63 

...  79 

...  44 

44,  83 

..  136 

■••  233 

...  182 

...  19 
21 

...  21 

...  21 


PACE. 

Flower,  John  D 21 

Fred  S 21 

Folger,  Howaril  S,  (Portrait) 59 

Forrester,  Capt.  E.  F 64 

Forty-fifth  parallel 72 

Fowler,  John  N 17 

Miss  Jane  C.  (Mrs.  E.  G.  Merick) 17 

Melzar 17,  204 

French  Missionaries 35 

Frontenac  Hotel 78 

The  Count  (Portrait) 211,  212 

The  Fort 35 

Expedition  of  Count 37 

Destruction  of  Fort 39 

6. 

Gananoque,  past  and  present 184 

Geology  of  the  Thousand  Islands 219 

George,  Daniel 147 

Giltnour  &  Co.,  of  Ottawa,  Ont 157 

Glen  Cove  Cottage,  Hemlock  Island 207 

Good  place  for  Bass 71 

Green,  Seth,  the  fish  culturist 45,     87 

Grennell,  Saml.  B 58,     94 

H. 

Haddock.  John  A.  (Portrait) Frontispiece. 

His  Balloon  Voyage. . .         150 

Centennial  HisJor}'  of  (Advt.) 252 

Haldimand,  the  Fort 42,  43 

General 43 

Hamilton,  City  of 70 

Hancock,  Mabel , i6i 

Happy  Islands,  The  (Mr.  Bragdon's  Poem). ...  4 

Health,  the  Value  of 14 

Henry  Keep  Home 24 

Hennepin,  Louis 35 

Hiawatha,  The  Legend  of    32 

Hinckley,  Captain  C 61 

Hinds,  Prof.  F.  A 178 

Historic  Ground 86 

Hudson,  Captain  H.  C 61 

Hugo,  Frank 61 

I. 

Indian  Mission  at  Oswegatchie 37 

Indians,  How  They  Learned  the  Rapids 76 

Indian  Traces  on  the  St.  Lawrence 34 

Race,  Creation  of 34 

Ingalls,  Hon.  L 100 

International  Park 51 

Book 30 

Introductory  and  Descriptive 7 

Iroquois  Inroad  upon  the  French 37 


J.  PAGE. 

Johnston,  Capt.  S.  G 54,     76 

Mrs.  Emmeline  H 55 

Capt.  Henry  T    62 

"  Kate  "    . . .   63 

William 143,  144 

ft. 

Kendall.  Capt.  Aldridge 56 

Capt.  Eli 57 

Capt.  Chas.  H 57 

Capt.  Frank 65 

Miss  Nellie  M.  (with  portrait) 84 

Keep,  Henry 21 

Henry  Keep  Home 24 

Kinney,  Rev.  M.  D 48 

Kingston,  City  of  70 

Kennedy,  George  N go 

Charles  L.  Hon go 

Knights  of  the  Blue  Gauntlet 108 

of  the  Golden  Circle no 

Keyes,  Perley  G 13S 

King,  Hon.  Preston 146 

L. 

LaFarge,  John loi 

Lake  of  a  Thousand  Islands 12 

LaMountain,  John,  eeronaut 150 

LaSalle,  the  explorer 208 

Portrait  of 209 

LeRay.  James  Donatien     g6 

Lost  Channel,  The,  an  Allusion  to 165,  166 

History  of  the 177 

Maple  Island  102 

McCormick,  Mrs.  C.  H 17 

C.  H.,  reaper  manufacturer 17 

McKenzie,  William  Lyon  142 

McLennan,  Hon.  P.  B go 

McLeod,  Capt.  Alexander 143 

McNab,  Sir  Allan 144 

Miller,  Captain  Andrew  H 84 

Miles,  S.,  founder  of  Kingston  Gazette    . .  .200,  249 

Montreal,  the  city  of 73 

Mudd,  Dr.,  surgeon  for  J.  Wilkes  Booth 115 

Murat,  Joachim loi 

Murray  Hill  Park 244 

Mystery  of  Maple  Island 102 

N. 

Navigation  by  Steam  on  the  St.  Lawrence 226 

Neilson,  Gen.  J.  L.  H.,  Biog.  Sketch  of 201 

Portrait  of 202 

New  Island  Wanderer,  view  of 124 

Nightingale,  Florence 52 


256 


INDEX. 


■\\ 


0(  PACE. 

Oswegatchie  under  the  English 40 

Oswego,  Capture  of 38 

City  of 69 

Old  "Just  About,"  pop-corn  vendor  (111.) 155 

P. 

Pahud,  Hon.  Joseph 132 

Parsons,  Chesterfield 13 

Patriot  War,  The 18,  142 

Patterson,  Commodore  Ned 45 

Payne  the  Ruffian ...    112 

Peel,  Sir  Robert,  Burning  of  Steamer 133 

Pic-Nic  on  La  Rue  Island  (III.) 77 

Pot-Holes  in  Eel  Bay  (111.) 231 

Point  Vivian 250 

Lot  (Jwners  at 250 

Prcscott,  City  of 70 

Printing,  origin  of,  on  the  St.  Lawrence 195 

Q. 

Quebec,  City  of 74 


Rainy  Day  at  the  Islands 13 

Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Enumerated 71 

How  the  Indians  Learned  to  Run  the 76 

Reese,  Captain  Chester  W 62 

Red  Cross,  The j 

Rest,  The  Value  of    14 

Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Co 70 

Roberval,  the  Huguenot 76 

Rochester,  City  of 69 

Roque,  Francis  de  la 10 

Round  Island 78 

Cottage  owners  of 79 

Trustees  of 79 

The  "Frontenac"  at 78 

s. 

Safe  Day  for  ihe  Fish  (111.) 69 

Sailing  Vessels,  Disappearance  of 73 

Savage,  Miss  Annette 132 

Scenery,  Autumnal,  on  the  St.  Lawrence     228 

"  Sir  Robert  Peel,"  the  Steamer 12 

Spencer,  Hon.  J.  C 25 

Skinner,  G.  M.,  of  Clayton 183 

Spicer  Family,  The 206 

Sportsman's  Song 195 

Staples,  Col.  Orin  G 13 

Steamboat  Captains,  some  old  ones 58 


PAGE. 

Steam  Yachts  for  Hire 83 

St.  Lawrence,  Song  of  the  (Carlton) 4 

River  and  Inland  Navigation 68 

Why  the  River  Runs  Where  it  Does 178 

Light  Houses  of  the.. 225 

Navigation  of,  by  Steam 226 

Lumbering  on  the 227 

Gulf  of 241 

Summer  Institute  on  the 243 

Stone,  Colonel,  of  Gananoque  (Portrait) 185 

Sturgeon,  Picture  of  a 6 

Surratt,  Mrs.,  Ihe  Conspirator 112 

Summer  Institute  on  the  St.  Lawrence 243 

Sweet,  Captain  George. .    67 

Captain  Vernon 68 

Mrs.  Catherine 67 

T. 

Taylor,  Capt.  Jas.  A 66 

Frank  H.  (Portrait)    168 

Toronto,  city  of 70 

Thompson,  Jonathan 237 

Thousand  Islands,  Geology  of 219 

Surveys  of 224 

Light  houses  of 225 

Park   47 

Original  trustees  of 48 

Present  trustees  of 48 

V. 

Van  Rensselaer,  General  (Patriot  War) 142 

Visger,  Capt.  Elisha  W 64 

Capt.  Walter  L 65 

Capt.  H.  W 84 

Von  Shoultz,  Niles  Sobelitcki 145 

W. 

Walton,  Azariah 13 

War  of  1755,  The 165 

Webb,  H.Walter 124 

Weeks,  Forest  G 245 

Webster,  Timothy,  the  Detective 105 

Williams,  Hon.  Pardon  C    90 

Windmill,  Battle  of  the 12 

Whittlesey  Aflair,  The   136 

Mrs.,  her  Will  or  Statement 140 

Woodruff,  Martin 147 

Wright,  The  Story  Teller 88 

Y. 

Yacht  Club,  The  Chippewa 79 

Yachting,  by  George  A.  Stewart 247 


PAGE. 
83 

Jn) 4 

i 68 

it  Does 178 

225 

226 

227 

241 

243 

ortrait) 185 

6 

112 

rence 243 

67 

68 

67 

66 

168 

70 

23.7 

219 

224 

225 

47 

48 

48 

War) 142 

64 

65 

84 

145 

13 

165 

124 

245 

105 

90 

12 

136 

140 

147 

88 

79 

247 


